Here it is... my THIRD reel ever taken apart. A spinner with BaitRunner feature.
This might be a little too in depth but I figured more info was better than none. Enjoy, and comment below!
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/IMG_6476_zps02e7fc1f.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/IMG_6476_zps02e7fc1f.jpg.html)
Tools
A few tools used in this reel.
12mm Deep Socket
Stubby Flat head
Yamaha Blue Marine Grease (In a glass jar and in syringe)
Cal's Drag Grease
TSI 321 Lube
Set of precision screwdrivers
#1 Phillips screwdriver
Q-Tips
Tweezers
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/IMG_6479_zps57f14c9b.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/IMG_6479_zps57f14c9b.jpg.html)
A Baitrunner 4000D slightly used for one season.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/1_zpsa066b046.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/1_zpsa066b046.jpg.html)
Start by unscrewing the drag knob (#13523)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/2_zps0795d70a.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/2_zps0795d70a.jpg.html)
The knob and spool should come off easy.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/3_zpsdb4f53c6.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/3_zpsdb4f53c6.jpg.html)
Remove drag washer retainer clip (#2264)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/4_zpsbeba4d46.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/4_zpsbeba4d46.jpg.html)
Shimano came with carbontex drags from the factory (Note they are ungreased from Shimano).
I went ahead and ordered some from Dawn anyway, support local businesses! (and save these as a backup)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/5_zps6d5a4ebd.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/5_zps6d5a4ebd.jpg.html)
Go ahead and service the underside of the spool, clean, grease. Remove the screw holding in the spring with a #1 phillips.
When installing the clicker, and spring, make sure the prongs of the spring sit into the recessed portion POINTING DOWN.
NOTE: Do not overtighten the screw holding the spring in.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/6_zpsd1b951aa.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/6_zpsd1b951aa.jpg.html)
Next I took off the handle (#13542) and screw cover (#13563) to make handling the reel easier.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/7_zps7e45f8fb.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/7_zps7e45f8fb.jpg.html)
Remove the spool washers (#3503) next. Becareful these can break. I had two thin washers and one thick washers. [Shimano says there could be differences in the washers]
Note the gear has the chamfered side up (smooth rounded side).
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/8_zps08e68638.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/8_zps08e68638.jpg.html)
Using a #1 phillips, remove the smaller screw (#5880) that is covering the counterweight (#15327) and larger locking screw (#787)
Again, note the counterweight has the chamfered side up (they're always up).
Remove rotor nut (#71) with a 12mm deep socket.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/9_zpsefa01493.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/9_zpsefa01493.jpg.html)
The entire bailing assembly can now come off in one piece.
The roller bearing assembly (#13444) has 5 screws on there. Only remove the 3 larger screws (#4798)
[Note] NO GREASE IN THE ROLLER BEARINGS
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/10_zpsdf4ed008.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/10_zpsdf4ed008.jpg.html)
This was a bit tricky, after the roller bearing came off a small washer and a thick spacer came off. These parts are not in the Baitrunner Schematic from Shimano.
The bearing can come off next (#13374) and pinion gear (#13536)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/11_zps9075e0e3.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/11_zps9075e0e3.jpg.html)
Remove the Baitrunner arm screws (#13620) and (#7419)(#2613 Lock Washer)
The arm will come off in 3 pieces (#13543/13544/13562)
Remove the 4 screws on the side of the reel. [Note the upper right screw is different] 3x (#642) and 1x (#6597)
Then the side cover (#13541) can come off.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/12_zps636acfc6.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/12_zps636acfc6.jpg.html)
Remove screw (#3747) and oscilating slider retainer (#1345)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/13_zpsc29812f4.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/13_zpsc29812f4.jpg.html)
Remove the bearing (#13241) [Note: Don't get this confused with the main shaft bearing, similar in size]
Remove screw (#3747) and oscilating slider retainer (#13545)
Then pull out the main shaft (#13526)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/13_zpsc29812f4.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/13_zpsc29812f4.jpg.html)
Remove drive gear (#13539)
Remove the oscilating slider (#13546)
Remove the oscilating gear (#13547) [Becareful underneath this gear there is a ratchet spring (#13548) and oscilating ratchet (#13549)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/14_zps1852a996.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/14_zps1852a996.jpg.html)
Remove the bearing (#13241) from the main body
Lift the baitrunner dial retainer out (#13556)
Remove screw (#3492) and dial click (#13559)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/14_zps1852a996.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/14_zps1852a996.jpg.html)
Remove the dial clicker (#13559) and screw (#3492).
Then remove the top half of the dial retainer (#13556)
Followed by screw (#3600) that holds the dial click holder (#13560)
Lastly rotate the other half of the dial retainer around with a pointy object or precision screwdriver and remove (#13557)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/15_zps2a2c53ad.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/15_zps2a2c53ad.jpg.html)
Remove C-clip (#2918)
Remove Baitrunner ratchet (#13555)
Then remove clutch arm assembly (#13550/13552/13553) and spring (#13551)
[Not Pictured] Remove the other roller bearing (#13241) from the body.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/16_zps04659146.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/16_zps04659146.jpg.html)
Lift up the spring (#5850), then lift and remove the BaitRunner Pawl(#13558)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/17_zps43cd1a99.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/17_zps43cd1a99.jpg.html)
Now the BaitRunner drag assembly and dial can come out of the shell.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/18_zps07dc4314.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/18_zps07dc4314.jpg.html)
Remove the Anti-Reverse lever (#13538) by removeing scrwe (#9872)
Then the screw (#10404) that holds the Bail Trip Strike (#13537)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/19_zpsab19a45e.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/19_zpsab19a45e.jpg.html)
The friction ring (#13010) can come off now and the entire body is bare.
Next we'll work on the bail assembly.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/20_zpsb5832f8b.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/20_zpsb5832f8b.jpg.html)
Remove the screw (#7469) for the bailing arm and keep in order the contents of the spacers etc.
Then remove the two side covers (#13533/13534) and screws (#3492/3402).
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/21_zpsb87f8686.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/21_zpsb87f8686.jpg.html)
Remove bail spring guide (#7787) and bail spring lever (#13531) and associated parts (#10391/10756/10753/10752)
Don't forget the clicker (#9841) and spring (#8916)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/22_zps7fb098c8.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/22_zps7fb098c8.jpg.html)
Now that everything is apart! Let's put it all back together.
Clean the body (#13561) of the reel and lube it up!
Also clean and drip a dab of TSI321 on the bearing (#13241)
Install it into the body (#13561)
And reinstall the anti-reverse assembly (#10367/11080/13538/9872)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/23_zpsb66cdd04.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/23_zpsb66cdd04.jpg.html)
Reinstall the BaitRunner pawl (#13558) and spring (#5850) assembly. The end of the spring sits on the peg.
It's a bit hard to see, but the clutch arm assembly goes together with the chamfered side up and the clutch cam (#13553) should mate up together
And reinstall the clutch arm and spring as such.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/24_zps3b7c9e27.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/24_zps3b7c9e27.jpg.html)
Reassemble and grease the BaitRunner drag stack.
NOTE: The eared washer (#13567), the long tab should stick into the body of the reel. You will see this in the next few photos, please ignore it.
The dimpled BaitRunner Dial retainer should be on the bottom and the eared retainer installed on top. Remember install the bottom one and rotate it with a screwdriver.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/25_zps7faadb91.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/25_zps7faadb91.jpg.html)
Reinstall the BaitRunner Ratchet assembly starting with the spacer (#13554) then Ratchet (#13555) and C-Clip (#2918)
Next the Dial Click Holder (#13560) with screw (#3600)
Afterwards the Dial Click (#13559) and screw (#3492) can be installed.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/26_zps453540a8.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/26_zps453540a8.jpg.html)
Grease and install the "Ninja Star" in the orientation shown on the backside of the oscilating ear (#13547)
Note the orientation of the Oscilating Gear in relation to the Drive Gear (#13539). Alignment is crucial.
Install the two gears as shown and install oscilating slider (#13546)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/27_zps1ac728ce.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/27_zps1ac728ce.jpg.html)
Go ahead and reinstall the main shaft (#13526) being careful not to rotate the main gear.
Then install the retainer clip (#13545) and screw (#3747)
Install pinion gear (#13536)
Install two shims (#11146) and bearing (#13241) [after it has been cleaned and dabbed with TSI321] onto gear (#13539)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/28_zpse5641e82.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/28_zpse5641e82.jpg.html)
Reinstall main shaft bearing (#13374) and the mystery spacer and washer.
Grease the inside cover for the reel body, install, and grease the holes.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/29_zps4cd428e5.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/29_zps4cd428e5.jpg.html)
Reinstall the 4 screws holding the cover, and remember the shorter screw goes where th BaitRunner lever is.
Reinstall the baitrunner lever with the two screws and washer.
Then reinstall the roller bearing assembly, and note the alignment with the anti-reverse lever.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/30_zps64d2cd5a.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/30_zps64d2cd5a.jpg.html)
Back to the bail assembly.
Start by installing the Bail Trip Lever (#13531)
Followed by the Bail Spring Seat (#10756), Bail Spring Guide A (#7787) and the washer (#10752) and spring (#10753) that go with it.
Don't forget the clicker (#9841) and clicker spring (#8916)
[Note: It's going to take some finesse go aline the bail spring guide]
Reattach the bail arm (#13532) using screw (#786) and washer (#7927)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/31_zpsee763fc8.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/31_zpsee763fc8.jpg.html)
Reinstall both side covers
Reinstall bail arm and screw (not pictured).
Then layout the line guide, screws, and washers in this orientation.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/32_zps68a1fe73.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/32_zps68a1fe73.jpg.html)
The bail arm should be complete now
Install the 12mm nut onto the pion gear
Install counterweight and lock screw that holds the nut in place.
Install the spool suppoert (#2516) and 3x spool washers (#3503)
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/33_zps553036a9.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/33_zps553036a9.jpg.html)
The top set of drags are Shimano drags vs. Smooth Drag on the bottom. Not much of a difference but there was slight wear on the Shimano drags since they weren't greased.
Grease the spool and the drags.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/34_zpsd9e6ab82.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/34_zpsd9e6ab82.jpg.html)
Install the drag stack and retainer clip.
Inside the drag knob (#13523) there is a spring, and a clicker. Remove the retaining clip and disassemble.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/35_zps493e353e.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/35_zps493e353e.jpg.html)
Grease the underside of the knob, reinstall clicker spring, the drag spring, cover, and retainer clip.
Screw it back onto your spool and you're done!
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab176/240Z_Master/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/36_zpsa0e9be5c.jpg) (http://s861.photobucket.com/user/240Z_Master/media/Fishing%20Reel%20Stuff/Baitrunner%204000D/36_zpsa0e9be5c.jpg.html)
It's all done! Comment, suggestions, constructive criticism is welcomed.
:)
What a nice post. Thanks so much! ;)
Sweet :)
For a "3rd" reel to work on you picked on of the more complicated reels. Not as bad as the original Baitrunner but my hat's off to you for a great tutorial..!!
Wonderful post..
NICE!!! I moved it to where it should be and made it sticky.
Quote from: handi2 on August 23, 2014, 08:10:40 PM
For a "3rd" reel to work on you picked on of the more complicated reels. Not as bad as the original Baitrunner but my hat's off to you for a great tutorial..!!
Wonderful post..
The pictures and write up took more time than to service the reel ;D
I don't think the reels are hard to service, you just have to be organized... and not lose parts :P
Quote from: Keta on August 23, 2014, 08:29:02 PM
NICE!!! I moved it to where it should be and made it sticky.
Now I know for next time.
(http://pix.iemoji.com/sbemojix2/0474.png)
very impressive!!!!!!
Quote from: alantani on August 25, 2014, 03:24:31 AM
very impressive!!!!!!
That means a lot coming from you! Still have much to learn!
Great job Quoc - well done.
These tutorials take a lot of time and effort, and this is a cracker!
All the best, Justin
Quote from: redsetta on August 25, 2014, 04:15:47 AM
Great job Quoc - well done.
These tutorials take a lot of time and effort, and this is a cracker!
All the best, Justin
The multitude of pictures was a little overwhelming. So many more parts in a spinner vs. star drag conv.
One of the best Tutorials I have seen great photos and detail
thanks Jon
good stuff
pic with a schematic alongside
very impressive and smart
cheers
Quote from: wallacewt on August 25, 2014, 06:18:22 AM
good stuff
pic with a schematic alongside
very impressive and smart
cheers
Thanks! I started looking at some threads when I was doing my tutorials and got fedup that I had to switch back and fourth (since my wife stole my second computer monitor). Then it gave me the idea
Very nice Job Quoc, it's very hard for me to believe that this is your third reel. :-\
Nevertheless, excellent! Thanks for sharing it with us.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 26, 2014, 02:09:39 AM
Very nice Job Quoc, it's very hard for me to believe that this is your third reel. :-\
Nevertheless, excellent! Thanks for sharing it with us.
Sal
I'm just good with my hands. Now if I could use them to catch some fish... but that's another topic for another day.
I also just got my A&P License, so I'm into fixing things. For those who don't know A&P means (Airframe and Powerplant) to fix planes. Hopefully there are others here :D
Be careful, we are able to slowly make you upgrade reels instead of planes around here ;D.
Thanks for joining us, it's nice to have you here with us.
its good to know that the guy that fixes the plane can service a baitrunner ;) :D ;D
"Fly Fisherman"?
Quote from: mandaragat on August 27, 2014, 04:20:00 AM
"Fly Fisherman"?
Ahhh I see what you did there... but I am not a pilot. Although I could probably land the sucker if the pilots died... helicopters included ;)
A picture is worth a thousand words so that's quite a book you have written. I believe you when you say that they required more work than the reel. Along with the fact that this was only your third reel shows excellent organisational skills. Brilliant stuff.
Took me a few reels to figure the best approach to spindle assembly. Maintaining gear alignment makes this impossible to properly lube in place. As you documented, it is best to assemble pinion, bearing and spindle assembly outside the reel so you can easily lubricate the rear spindle section and just slide the whole show into position, pre-lubricated.
I have found that it best to switch the baitrunner lever till the gear-case is closed. This places the trip spring under tension, holding it in place and prevents it from drifting loose during subsequent assembly.
I use TSI on metal surfaces instead of grease. It is much neater than a mess of grease and traps no dirt.
Yamaha grease is OK for gear teeth but you need to use a lighter grease in other areas, especially if you are lubricating bearings on a small spinning reel like this. You can roll your own or try some of the light reel greases from Daiwa or Shimano. The new Daiwa range is amazing.
I was trying to confirm that the D series bait-runners have no bail-arm roller bearing which led me to your post which verified this. The schematics reveal that this is the true for the whole D series! I would have never expected this. What a disappointment.
Thankyou for such a great pictorial.
~
Great write up! Would love to see some more by you!
Quote from: exp2000 on February 21, 2015, 09:42:50 AM
A picture is worth a thousand words so that's quite a book you have written. I believe you when you say that they required more work than the reel. Along with the fact that this was only your third reel shows excellent organisational skills. Brilliant stuff.
Took me a few reels to figure the best approach to spindle assembly. Maintaining gear alignment makes this impossible to properly lube in place. As you documented, it is best to assemble pinion, bearing and spindle assembly outside the reel so you can easily lubricate the rear spindle section and just slide the whole show into position, pre-lubricated.
I have found that it best to switch the baitrunner lever till the gear-case is closed. This places the trip spring under tension, holding it in place and prevents it from drifting loose during subsequent assembly.
I use TSI on metal surfaces instead of grease. It is much neater than a mess of grease and traps no dirt.
Yamaha grease is OK for gear teeth but you need to use a lighter grease in other areas, especially if you are lubricating bearings on a small spinning reel like this. You can roll your own or try some of the light reel greases from Daiwa or Shimano. The new Daiwa range is amazing.
I was trying to confirm that the D series bait-runners have no bail-arm roller bearing which led me to your post which verified this. The schematics reveal that this is the true for the whole D series! I would have never expected this. What a disappointment.
Thankyou for such a great pictorial.
~
I'll definitely experiment with some different greases... I'm an aircraft mechanic now and have access to quite a few different greases.
My 4000D, less than a year old, had a major failure yesterday while stripped bass fishing off the NJ coast. While setting the hook on a fish about 22" (light weight). the spool just went free, I had to bring the fish in turning the spool by hand, ugh (fish released, a bit tired but ok). I opened the reel up as soon as I got home to find the brass "Free Spool Tension Shaft" (Part # RD13564) had completely rounded off on the inside where the main shaft fits in it. There are two flat sides machined in it and on the end of the mating main shaft but not much if any lube was there. I am very disappointed by this! I will fix it myself as I want to get it back on the water ASAP before the fish migrate but I am now leery of these reels :-\. Any recommendations on a reliable, SALTWATER baitrunner reel?
Quoc: IMO that is one of the nicest reel tutorials I have seen. Well done!
Joe
Excellent tutorial with schematics! Do you work for Shimano on the side????? lol
................Lou
Great tutorial, Quoc --
Particularly like the partial schematics referring to a pic -- part numbers, and sharp organization for our clarity.
Those quality rear drag spinners are not easy to work on or figure out sometimes.
Alan, Quoc needs 2 wrenches for this one -- one for the left, and one for the right...
Good work, and thanks!
Best,
Fre
Quote from: barkley1956 on December 07, 2015, 02:17:47 PM
My 4000D, less than a year old, had a major failure yesterday while stripped bass fishing off the NJ coast. While setting the hook on a fish about 22" (light weight). the spool just went free, I had to bring the fish in turning the spool by hand, ugh (fish released, a bit tired but ok). I opened the reel up as soon as I got home to find the brass "Free Spool Tension Shaft" (Part # RD13564) had completely rounded off on the inside where the main shaft fits in it. There are two flat sides machined in it and on the end of the mating main shaft but not much if any lube was there. I am very disappointed by this! I will fix it myself as I want to get it back on the water ASAP before the fish migrate but I am now leery of these reels :-\. Any recommendations on a reliable, SALTWATER baitrunner reel?
Wow! That's amazing to strip out that part. I think you were just unlucky. The freespool problem is usually caused by the baitrunner pawl fouling somehow. A bad batch was recently released which caused new reels to fail out of the box. (OC series)
The D series is OK except for the railway carriage return spring. I would go for a Thunnus myself. Nice engineering PLUS a bail arm roller bearing!
But whatever you don't get a Penn. Their baitrunners are really crap engineering.
I dont usually post, but that is a amazing tutorial. Cheers Glenn
Quote from: handi2 on August 23, 2014, 08:10:40 PM
For a "3rd" reel to work on you picked on of the more complicated reels. Not as bad as the original Baitrunner but my hat's off to you for a great tutorial..!!
Wonderful post..
What handi said. I bought one at a yard sale and it needed a new bail and cap for the opposite side of the handle. I took it about 25% apart. When I opened the side cover, I just stared at it for a while, told myself that this part was working fine, and buttoned it back up. I had a mental image of parts spraying around the basement when I loosened a spring loaded what-cha-ma-call-it without applying proper pressure to the gear-a-ma-jig.... I take my hat off to you and will use this excellent tutorial to properly service my Baitrunner.
WOW - VERY IMPRESSIVE !!! you inspire me to tackle my own Shimonstrosity -- rear drag AND worm gear AND smaller 2500-size AND it's an old JDM, so I'll be working w/ the original Japanese paper schematic & magnifier ::)
FYI:
"This was a bit tricky, after the roller bearing came off a small washer and a thick spacer came off. These parts are not in the Baitrunner Schematic from Shimano."
the thin "small washer" is a shim -- presence/absence/thickness/number of shims is a variable that often doesn't match schematics
the "thick spacer" is considered part of the roller bearing assembly (#13444) -- hence no part# & absent from schematic -- it's what the rollers "grab" to stop the rotor, so it has to be a matched set. I can imagine the tiniest variation in diameter being a major issue, but I've been pretty lucky swapping ones that look the same among different Shimano's without problems. On the other hand, I had to learn the hard way to reinstall that puppy "fat side up" -- a picture in the schematic could have saved me some grief.
sorry to resurrect this old thread....is there an updated tutorial without the photobucket restrictions on seeing the pictures? I need to fix my baitrunner 4000.
you can right-click on the blurry photo & open it in another tab/window in PB (clear; no PB logo)
if you're lucky, all the photos in original poster's PB album are in order (w/ possible extra's)
& you can scroll around in PB, while popping over to AT for the text
otherwise, you have to do the right-click maneuver fo every photo
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this picture heavy post!!!!
It totally help me today in positioning the springs and a couple of other parts.
you ROCK
Glad it helped! I only did this once or twice... and vowed never to do it again lol... maybe a video is more helpful but this was done quite a few years ago.
Holy crap I did this 6 years ago/!??!?
Amazing how the years go by!
It remains an impressive piece of work Quoc.
All the best, Justin
Hi Team, long time since I've posted here but thought this may help someone else. I was gifted one of these by a friend about a year ago; it was DOA and he said if I could fix it I could have it. Winding the handle gave me the impression of a stripped gear, it sat on my shelf for about a year before I had time to get around to it.
Tearing it down confirmed my suspicions. Instead of replacing with the same pot metal gear, I took a punt on ordering the gear set from a Thunnus Ci4 4000. These are the "Hagane" main gears, I think they are heat treated machined metal and meant to be stronger. Both pinions looked the same. The main gears were nearly physically identical, with the exception being the shaft length. See the pictures for a better look.
The shorter shaft meant that when I put my 4000D handle in the Ci4 gear, the thread reached the end inside the gear before the handle could 'snug' up against the gear shaft, leaving a gap which lead to the pivot of the handle allowing significant play (see the small gap in the handle pic). To remedy this I just had to put three washers (M5 stainless steel) on the handle shaft.
All in all it is now "better than new". I will say these gears were significantly more expensive than the originals, at about 3 times the price of the pot metal variant. I shouldn't have the same problem though...
Cheers,
Andrew