Pictured is an old D.A.M. Quick 221 spinning reel from about 1969.
D.A.M. stands for Deutsche Angelerate Manufaktur (German Fishing Tackle Manufacturing Co.).
This particular reel is fairly rare -- since it is the 221 version of the little 220. Few were made.
That means it is a high speed geared model (5:1 instead of 3:1). The differences are of course the gears, and the handle crank is longer for more torque. There is a tiny red "S" on the right side lower body.
The handle is fully reversible from a right to a left version -- the handle folds down, and the bail will reverse when being stored to take the constant pressure off of the bail spring.
These are made from aircraft grade aluminum bodies and rotors. The gears consist of a solid high grade steel for the worm drive -- along with a phosphor cut bronze main gear. There is an oversize ball bearing. All components are very strong and overbuilt for performance and longevity. This becomes evident as one overhauls this 45 year old reel with the original old brown grease from the factory still in place. It is a lot of fun for me to restore these old reels back to original. I do use modern oils and greases -- and that makes a big improvement over the old type lubricants. Many people think these old Quicks are not worth restoring or using -- since the old brown grease turns to beeswax -- and the reel becomes stiff and nearly inoperable.
However, just the opposite is true.
These are great little trout, bass, or striper reels for rivers, lakes, and streams.
This is a reel for a member of the Alan Tani Website.
We start with the reel --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/5C19A73B-8BB0-4522-AE17-97C61FF807BE_zpsdxpmizef.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/5C19A73B-8BB0-4522-AE17-97C61FF807BE_zpsdxpmizef.jpg.html)
Got a few to do in the smaller sizes --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/EE8FE2C6-7D8A-4AD2-9CB2-5B0CFD05AA47_zps2x8rilam.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/EE8FE2C6-7D8A-4AD2-9CB2-5B0CFD05AA47_zps2x8rilam.jpg.html)
Starting to disassemble completely prior to cleaning with mineral Spirits, Simple Green, Purple ZEP Degreaser, steel wool --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/12C24EF5-41EE-4F98-B114-D65EF4E79AD3_zps3kksgr3b.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/12C24EF5-41EE-4F98-B114-D65EF4E79AD3_zps3kksgr3b.jpg.html)
Old brown dried up grease --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/677E0F5F-1B2A-49EC-9763-603744C409CF_zpsqghe0b35.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/677E0F5F-1B2A-49EC-9763-603744C409CF_zpsqghe0b35.jpg.html)
Removing crank handle by punching out pin --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/590BF73E-CA8A-4834-8E77-A5361F30574E_zpsqaujfpff.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/590BF73E-CA8A-4834-8E77-A5361F30574E_zpsqaujfpff.jpg.html)
Mostly disassembled except for worm gear and bearing --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/F51D1C5E-50E4-44DE-B555-EB105D8FD023_zpsl9ouxawa.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/F51D1C5E-50E4-44DE-B555-EB105D8FD023_zpsl9ouxawa.jpg.html)
Removing main bearing snap ring --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/036FEC1F-B90B-4C58-B777-01B5F331202F_zpspnvl1abj.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/036FEC1F-B90B-4C58-B777-01B5F331202F_zpspnvl1abj.jpg.html)
Temporarily attach hex rotor nut on worm gear drive shaft , if bearing is stuck in body -- for leverage --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/CA8B9F40-5427-4778-A6B5-C0EC4679399A_zpsi23wuxw9.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/CA8B9F40-5427-4778-A6B5-C0EC4679399A_zpsi23wuxw9.jpg.html)
Pound out drive shaft using soft faced hammer and blocks of wood --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/1B4DF912-92E1-4879-B641-44560AF82F68_zpslvqc7oew.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/1B4DF912-92E1-4879-B641-44560AF82F68_zpslvqc7oew.jpg.html)
Cleaned and ready to reassemble --
Basically to keep it simple -- think of the reel as just 4 components -- body, rotating head with bail and trip assembly, crank handle assembly, and spool with drag assembly -- assemble these units separately -- then attach them together.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/F3267EF3-11A2-4DFA-97E2-6FA6876599B7_zps1g1i8a1u.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/F3267EF3-11A2-4DFA-97E2-6FA6876599B7_zps1g1i8a1u.jpg.html)
Drive axle, main gear, anti-reverse lever --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/59D1B75D-A33C-4767-AFBA-4E43E7DD5A06_zpslqfv7xfg.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/59D1B75D-A33C-4767-AFBA-4E43E7DD5A06_zpslqfv7xfg.jpg.html)
Reseating crank handle pin --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/DA102AB7-6879-4DC7-B2A9-CD0BB0824F68_zpsvj8wnczs.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/DA102AB7-6879-4DC7-B2A9-CD0BB0824F68_zpsvj8wnczs.jpg.html)
Complete rotor assembly with bail, and complete spool with drag --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/BDCBFB0C-271A-471A-B893-220935DEB5BA_zpsoak9uhq0.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/BDCBFB0C-271A-471A-B893-220935DEB5BA_zpsoak9uhq0.jpg.html)
Attaching anti-reverse lever --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/F3A205A2-6030-43D1-B385-2D70622246C1_zpserbmc24e.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/F3A205A2-6030-43D1-B385-2D70622246C1_zpserbmc24e.jpg.html)
Crank nut going on drive axle --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/0A611641-5AD7-4606-83F3-02BD99B33B6C_zpsi5nkrarl.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/0A611641-5AD7-4606-83F3-02BD99B33B6C_zpsi5nkrarl.jpg.html)
Installing bearing and worm drive --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/701C4CF7-9007-4616-A58A-0659D8F27D54_zpswuxkckbp.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/701C4CF7-9007-4616-A58A-0659D8F27D54_zpswuxkckbp.jpg.html)
Installing bearing shield, spring washer, and snap ring --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/CF7328F3-6128-462F-8AE6-8FF1BDFAF760_zpsno2rtihz.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/CF7328F3-6128-462F-8AE6-8FF1BDFAF760_zpsno2rtihz.jpg.html)
Re-seating worm drive into main bearing --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/9D9A374B-4174-4863-A62B-1A2838B1E721_zpsc7pvy6ae.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/9D9A374B-4174-4863-A62B-1A2838B1E721_zpsc7pvy6ae.jpg.html)
Attaching rotor assembly to body assembly using drive plate, spring washer, and hex nut --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/D5A0089B-54BB-42FE-A4AA-5A470A018AE7_zpsylgscnn8.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/D5A0089B-54BB-42FE-A4AA-5A470A018AE7_zpsylgscnn8.jpg.html)
Easy method to burnish and polish inside of worm drive or various bushings using a drill, bit, and "0000" steel wool wound around the bit --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/16D7AE00-1D07-482B-B1A9-5D41BE75BF65_zpsqzhnpqju.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/16D7AE00-1D07-482B-B1A9-5D41BE75BF65_zpsqzhnpqju.jpg.html)
Polishing and burnishing brass bushings --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/9A4FE0E3-68D0-4655-A657-620BCE21CF1C_zpsqdspahxz.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/9A4FE0E3-68D0-4655-A657-620BCE21CF1C_zpsqdspahxz.jpg.html)
Done --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/945CF438-6704-4CB8-9216-22A2DF9CEED8_zpsuir9jqlc.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/945CF438-6704-4CB8-9216-22A2DF9CEED8_zpsuir9jqlc.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/773878CE-6543-4FBC-9F18-4E8312CFC1C2_zpsuxb1y7xf.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/773878CE-6543-4FBC-9F18-4E8312CFC1C2_zpsuxb1y7xf.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/4297C2B1-9194-42E7-B06C-1247E3695ED7_zpsa53dy6fm.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/4297C2B1-9194-42E7-B06C-1247E3695ED7_zpsa53dy6fm.jpg.html)
Better than new --
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/1204ADC8-0DC5-4848-BF8A-6D2D2ACBFC87_zpsjujjguwk.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/1204ADC8-0DC5-4848-BF8A-6D2D2ACBFC87_zpsjujjguwk.jpg.html)
Best,
Fred
You sure know your stuff Fred. Make it look so easy. Had a couple of these in the '70s that I used for bass fishing before I discovered baitcasters. They were a step up from my Mitchell 309 and 409 reels that they replaced. Unfortunately I lost them when the in laws farm house, that they were stored in, burnt down in a fire.
Happy New Year, and keep them coming in 2015 ;)
Regards,
Terry.
Fred did DAM ever make a surfcasting size reel?
Fred, very good idea using a drill bit and steel wool, I also use steel wool to clean those, but never thought about wrapping it on a drill bit.
Very good tip, I just want to mention that on my reels I only use Stainless steel wool, that steel wool could make a mess if not cleaned properly, the small pieces get everywhere.
Here is what I've been using:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-434-Wool-Roll-1-lb-Reel-Fine-/310225176985?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483adc8999
Thanks for sharing Fred.
Sal
Hi Terry --
If you ever decide to do a couple of old Quicks -- just pick them up, and I should be able to help you with advice and/or any parts. Or I also have nearly any Quick you might want.
Jon -- DAM made some larger conventional multiplier reels in recent years for ocean trolling -- some with lever drags. But, I am not familiar with them. Looked into becoming a dealer and service center for them about 15 years ago. Glad I did not do it -- the company was in flux from moving most of their production from Germany to Asia -- and they wanted a minimum order of $10,000 to start. That might have been OK if I felt there was company support and promotion here in the States -- but there wasn't, and still isn't.
Sal -- you are right about the steel wool. The SS wool looks like a good idea. I used to use brass wool, but it was too pricey. I do some furniture projects requiring multiple coats of lacquer and steel wool rubbing in between coats -- followed by a hand rubbed final application of Rottenstone & Peanut Oil. So I have 0000 on hand. It needs to be blown off with air -- then a quick 2 minute routine in the Ultrasonic takes care of any bits left behind. May try the SS, if I can get it in 0000, or smaller grade.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: theswimmer on January 02, 2015, 12:15:45 PM
Fred did DAM ever make a surfcasting size reel?
There are much larger ones that would work perfectly well. Having Grand Meister Foakes about he probably has every part you would ever need :).
Thanks for the fine post. I always wanted one of these as a kid for troutin' and messing about. Pair one of those with an old Fenwick (or vintage bamboo rod) and you would be a stylin' OG. :)
Thank you Fred. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
Regards,
Terry.
Good info on the use of steel wool. I've used similar methods to polish. Sight have to look into buying some of that stainless. Guess, I have just been meticulous about cleaning the parts after using plain 0000 wool. BTW I just tried my ultrasonic cleaner out on 2 reels, and I like it so far. Like the way it cleans small bearings, and the clutch mech on shimano spinners. Wonder how it will handle Tiagra 130s. Maybe I'll find out tomorrow. Fred I bet you could just about do one of those reels in your sleep. Well done.
Great work! I love the old spinners for bait fishing with trout! I'm looking for a DAM 110, after seeing these posts, to finish a nice trout bait setup
Bought this reel in 1973. Used it to fish for Coho Salmon, sea run Steelhead, Dolley Varden and Cut Throat trout and anything else that showed up. It was an outstanding reel and stood up to everything. Back in the day the plastic insert that aligned the bail fell out. Being on the Queen Charlotte Islands and of course, no internet or any idea on how to order parts, I filled it in with solder and it has been that way ever since. Came across the reel in my pile this year and decided to clean it up. Built like a tank. Can you still get parts for these? I'd like to replace the solder fix with the proper part. You can see what I'm talking about in the second picture.
Hi Larry --
Yes, it is a small black plastic part called a cover cap -- part# 100-112.
You should be able to re-melt the solder out of the bail -- and just install this cap.
I can send you this part if you pm me your mailing address --
If you need a new bail (doubtful) -- I can do that also.
Just depends on if your solder re-heating job comes out clean or not.
These bail wires were designed to have a little movement in that area so they would not bind up as easily. This part just covers that hole so it is a little more protected and pleasing to the eye.
Let me know -- glad to help, if possible.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/CB78F0CB-964F-4E7C-8E1E-DEA6349C8EDA_zpsgicyqe7b.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/CB78F0CB-964F-4E7C-8E1E-DEA6349C8EDA_zpsgicyqe7b.jpg.html)
outstanding. thanks Fred. I see you just happen to have a couple laying around :D
The bail is still good.
Very much appreciate.
PM sent
Larry
In the mail, Larry --
Sent (2) in case one gets messed up during installation attempt after removing the solder.
Best,
Fred
Again, many thanks Fred and very much appreciated. I'll post a pic (if it works ???)
Thanks to Fred this old reel looks as good as......well, as good as it gets when you think of what it went through back in the days. At least it has all its parts and I am very happy and grateful. Might even take the old girl out on a field trip this summer ;D
Solder came out pretty easily with a torch and with my dremel. Popped right in. Too easy.
Thanks again to Fred for graciously helping me out.
Here's the fix and I also included a shot of my little workshop just because.
Hi Larry --
Very nice shop!
Looks like that D.A.M. Quick 330 could use a couple of new bail screws, a new rubber bumper for the bail, and a new bail spring. Save your old parts for spares.
Since the other parts got across the border so easily -- I will send these out to you in a day or two.
Do not use a regular screwdriver on these!
Try something like this homemade soft aluminum driver I ground down the tip on -- into a flat piece. It fits perfect, will not mar the screw slot. I think a soft penny squared on one side would work OK also. The old homemade Penn aluminum wrench just has more leverage -- and that is important when loosening old chrome over brass screws that have not been off for 40 years. Strong downward pressure -- try to move a little clockwise initially -- then use downward positive pressure to easily get it off the first time with no marring.
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/6A4571CF-DD9F-440C-B94B-256E6A90FD90_zpsz3vilqgg.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/6A4571CF-DD9F-440C-B94B-256E6A90FD90_zpsz3vilqgg.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/7BDCF565-DADF-49AE-94A5-6A28D6006001_zpsbcfk4zlh.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/7BDCF565-DADF-49AE-94A5-6A28D6006001_zpsbcfk4zlh.jpg.html)Best,
Fred
Geez! What can I say.
Those screws show the scars from years back before I got into reel repair. No tools. Think I used a quarter sometimes. Just a poor private back then.
I'm surprised the spring still seems good but, they do fatigue and has a probability of failing if used a bunch now.
I like your tool mod and will probably do something similar.
A new rubber bumper for the bail? Not sure what you're referring to. Are you talking about the little pad under the anti reverse lever?
I'll be sending you a PM.
Thanks again.
Larry
The little black rubber bumper goes into a tight hole on the bail return. It is opposite the side of the bail -- from the one with the spring. Appears yours is missing or really worn down. This prevents metal against metal contact when the bail trips closed on retrieve. It is a small thing -- but will save your bail system metals by softening the impact. Sometimes when replacing this -- I use a drop of emblem adhesive glue -- or super glue works also. Just a toothpick drop inside the hole before inserting.
The old bumper -- or what is left of it -- will need to be removed piece by piece with a metal pick.
You are right -- these springs seldom fail or break -- except when not serviced properly. But they do fatigue over the years. And you will notice the crisp snap of a new bail spring.
Another pesky know-it-all hint:
On most Quicks, one can just manually release the bail by pulling down the trip lever mechanism -- and just allow the bail to fold down on the body -- with no pressure on the bail spring. Instead of constant bail pressure on the spring when in storage -- the bail is as good as new when you are ready to go fishing -- and will likely never fatigue again.
Larry, there is no charge on this -- so a PM is not necessary.
Best,
Fred
The bumper is missing. Never knew it had one.
I like the bail trick. I'll do that.
Can't thank you enough.
Fred,
Nice job on the reel, I am assuming that is my reel in your tutorial. This reel is amazing in that is it so smooth without all the ball bearings. I will get my dad's 330 and sent it to you for service.
Thanks
Andy Durden
That is not yours, Andy --
But yours is getting close to the top of the pile.
Might have time to do it along with a basic tutorial this weekend.
Helping a friend move tomorrow morning -- and going to a mid-day play and dinner event with my wife on Sunday -- just after Church.
It will be done very soon, at any rate.
Best,
Fred
Been in Florida for a couple months so hadn't been able to first, thank Fred for sending along the new screws and spring and secondly, show a finished picture. Can't believe what a few parts can do to make a reel look almost as good as new again. I am very happy with how it looks and that it still works 100%. Very cool.
Solid work, Larry!
You know how to get a job done properly --
Best,
Fred
Gotta love the world wide web, so awesome to come across this forum!
Hello everyone!
About a week ago I ran across this interesting looking Dam Quick 220 reel at a local thrift store. At $3 this reel was just begging me to take it apart and have a look. I was really surprised at the quality. As I cleaned and lubricated this gem I developed a real appreciation for the craftsmanship, very impressive!
It was beginning to look like the beeswax like grease might be the only thing problem this reel had until I discovered the spool is in bad shape. The bottom of the spool has a groove worn in it that causes it to ride so low that part of it comes into contact with the rotor. I'm almost certain there's something else missing but I haven't been able to find the right details regarding the spool setup from brake spindle to drag nut. Any chance someone could post that information?
Eventually I plan to pick up a new spool setup but I like this reel so much I'm going to rig something to get me through this season.
Jeff
P.S. There was a sale that day, 40% off, cost me $1.82 w/ tax.
Hi Jeff --
You are not missing anything under the spool.
Could be the Resistex washer is worn out a bit -- causing the spool to ride a little lower.
Try an additional washer under there -- the line lay may be slightly off -- but this will let you know if that is the cure for now.
Then if you need another washer or something else -- just let me know.
Great size reel -- one of my favorites, and very high quality -- over-built engineering -- always a good thing!
Best,
Fred
Hi Fred,
I'm cleaning the drag washers this afternoon and taking it to the lake this evening. Do I understand correctly that the Resistex washers in the drag should be clean and dry, not greased?
These pics better show the groove in the bottom of the spool that I'm talking about. One half looks fine but the other half is worn. I'm going to try and find a slightly thicker brass washer to compensate but I may have to just add another thin one.
Other than that this reel is a beauty, I'm excited to use it!
Jeff
Hi Jeff --
The resistex washers should be installed dry --
If in the future, you decide to switch to CFs -- they should be greased with Cal's drag grease.
With greased Cfs -- you will notice higher drag numbers and increased smoothness through all drag positions from light to near full lock down.
I have added many thin washers over the years to these reels -- just experiment until you are satisfied with the result.
Easy to switch around washer positions --
Best,
Fred
Fred,
This is what came out of the drag in that order. Does that look right to you?
Jeff
Looks mixed up --
Won't be back until late tonight --
Will check and post later tonight or early tomorrow.
Best,
Fred
Hi Jeff --
Over the years, DAM has changed up their spools somewhat -- but they all work -- and the drag stack principles have stayed the same.
Here is what it should be, starting from the right side spring washer on the bottom, inside --
Depending on what you decide to do -- if there is anything you need, just let me know. Glad to help, if possible.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/0948DAD7-DF79-4FFA-89E5-3192DF539782_zps7vurtr9f.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/0948DAD7-DF79-4FFA-89E5-3192DF539782_zps7vurtr9f.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/7B217B12-7374-435A-90E2-143DBA912475_zpsrnryclj2.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/7B217B12-7374-435A-90E2-143DBA912475_zpsrnryclj2.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/49A826B3-10B7-4C33-93B7-CEB1E21E2A1A_zps18z5lnkn.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/49A826B3-10B7-4C33-93B7-CEB1E21E2A1A_zps18z5lnkn.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/F8AC0B63-8907-4ABD-8BF2-3EED4DB71815_zps1cvviheb.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/F8AC0B63-8907-4ABD-8BF2-3EED4DB71815_zps1cvviheb.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/FDBA2302-0CFA-4CFB-9DF5-B9A60A392A8A_zpshtbrsswn.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/FDBA2302-0CFA-4CFB-9DF5-B9A60A392A8A_zpshtbrsswn.jpg.html)
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/43FEB6BC-77BC-4A09-9A26-150AE1B2785F_zpskdqtr7sr.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/43FEB6BC-77BC-4A09-9A26-150AE1B2785F_zpskdqtr7sr.jpg.html)
Thank you Fred, you've been a great help. This information brings up a new question though, how am I supposed to get the washers with ears into this little round hole? haha
Jeff
No issues, Jeff --
Just PM me your mailing address -- and I will send you this complete NOS set, plus a couple of new under spool washers.
(1) Spring, (3) metal, (2) resistex, (2) UG washers -- 1 Resistex, 1 brass
Keep the old set for spares --but you will never need them unless you lose them somehow.
Should be good to go.
No Charges.
Best,
Fred
(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/B24459F2-C9F7-4087-9B21-80444CC91C5C_zpsasdbk1gu.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/B24459F2-C9F7-4087-9B21-80444CC91C5C_zpsasdbk1gu.jpg.html)
Got Quick? Call Fred. ;D
Hi Fred,
I really appreciate your generous offer but I like that setup with the driving plate and the tooth washer a lot better. Would you have one of those you would sell me? Would my brake spindle and drag nut work with that type of spool or would I need the complete setup?
Jeff
Hi Jeff --
You can generally find complete used or sometimes new spools on ebay for $10 - $20, or so.
Best,
Fred
Okay, thanks Fred, I'll keep looking.
If it wasn't for the bail snapping closed on casts I would love this reel. It's a perfect companion to my Baitrunner 6500.
Thanks for the work you did on my reels (D.A.M. Quick 220 and Johnson Century). These will be great first reels for the grand kids.
Anthony
(http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/doen1/Reel/P1040090_zpsje7o0ite.jpg) (http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/doen1/media/Reel/P1040090_zpsje7o0ite.jpg.html)
Fred, what do you use to touch up any skinned or scuffed up parts of the finish, especially where the metal is showing through?
Any kind of polish you use? I remember a product called "Back to Black", which I used to use on a truck. Maybe that will work.
Hi fb3 --
On the DAM Quicks -- they used a Wrinkle paint that comes off a little too easily.
Even NIB old stock Quicks will generally have a chip or two.
When cleaning, I use an ultrasonic cleaner, Simple Green cut 50/50 with water -- and the important thing: no heat, and no more than 4 minutes -- otherwise the paint will come off or become non-binding.
This is the same basic paint that was used on old electronic instrument type devices a half century ago, on radios, automotive valve covers, etc.
There are a few companies that sell something similar -- but the job doesn't turn out perfect -- just fine though.
Eastwood is the best I have found so far -- but there are probably others -- though not too many, anymore.
If there are just a few little chips -- I will just do a touch up with a brush, or the torn end of a cardboard match stick -- works well enough.
One can take all of the paint off with a commercial dipping like they do in a radiator shop pretty quickly -- then prepare the surface -- then repaint the body, sideplate, rotor, and crank arbor deal. I never pass off a repaint as new -- just restored. And this process is time consuming. Generally just clean and do the mechanics, plus lube, replace parts, and tune for proper operation.
The material for the body, rotor, A/R crank arbor, and sideplate are aircraft grade cast aluminum.
Someday, if other projects and the bench ever clears -- I might experiment with different colors, mods to the rotor, Manual Bail Pick-Ups, different crank knobs, etc...but I just like the stock units as is for now.
Best,
Fred
Thanks. I looked up Eastwood Black crinkle paint and that may just be the ticket.
I'm going to try touching up a few small spots on my worst Quick and see how it turns out.
There is a big difference in wrinkle paint and crinkle paint.
Eastwood makes both.
Better results will be with the "wrinkle" paint.
Good luck,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on June 06, 2016, 12:49:30 AM
There is a big difference in wrinkle paint and crinkle paint.
Eastwood makes both.
Better results will be with the "wrinkle" paint.
Good luck,
Fred
Okay, got it.
Thanks.
foakes this is perfect. You actually sold me on getting a 221 just from this and well, one other article. I'll be putting my Mitchell 300 on ebay soon. The 221 beats it hands down.
Delete this if it creates a stink but your cleanup is beyond my ability. Could I pay you to do a clean/restore on my 221? And, do you have any 220/221 parts to replace the body and rotating head? Yeah, I know it sounds a bit much but mines beautiful except for boat rash.
thanks.
Glad to help, Mcguyver --
If you wish, I could do a complete restore with new frame, rotating head, and sideplate.
PM me if you wish to go this route.
It would be a complete restore with any parts needed replaced with new.
Best,
Fred
And my .02 cents if I may, I've got one of Fred's 221 build series and what a tremendous reel, just the right size for most of the freshwater fishing I do down here in south Florida, bass, Peacock bass, panfish, exotics finesse, power, it just feels good in hand, spooled with a 4 or 6 weight line on a 6-7' rod its a serious ultra light combination, now my go to reel, I need to acquire a few more spare spools but they are non existent ( hope Fred reads this post ) ....
Paul
Quote from: SilverRidge on June 16, 2017, 03:45:05 PM
........................221 build series ........................ spooled with a 4 or 6 weight line on a 6-7' rod its a serious ultra light combination......................
220 series Quicks on 6-7ft. rods .....I call that a light action at best. 110 size or smaller on 5 1/2 ft. or smaller UL rods, spooled with no more than 4 lb., is in my mind what's considered true ultralight.
A 220 series is more in line with modern 3000 series reels the way I see it. I commonly use this size with 8 lb on a 6 1/2 - 7ft light action or medium light action rod for channel catfish, walleye, steelhead, medium size pike, largemouth bass and such.
Try a 110 or microlite on a 4 1/2 - 5 1/2 ft. UL rod with 2-4 lb test for a true UL fishing experience. And be ready for some super fun fishing. Make sure you have that drag tweaked right and running smooth. I've caught some very large fish in both salt and fresh water using these rigs. And it's always a rush.
I love when I get slammed by a big fish when using a small reel. You really have to play them carefully. Nothing more fun than having to back-reel to keep from breaking off. Keep in mind I am not advocating playing them to death. We have to respect Mother Nature and her creatures.
I have a 110n that's waiting for a trip to Fred's.
Fred reading through all these post about 220/221 reels do you know if the earlier 238 metal spools fit on the 220/221? I'm tempted to buy one if this is the case as an extra spool for my 221 I went through a while back. I made some carbon fiber drags for my 221 and greased them man what difference it made one of my favorite all purpose reels now.
Yes,
It will work, Andy.
The spindle/arbor needs to be switched also -- due to the size difference in the spool axles.
Some of the early 238 spools may be metal -- just checked a bin full of 238's -- all are plastic -- but they do switch over with some parts modification.
Haven't had the time to check further -- and won't for a few days, but the spacer/under spool washers may also need to have their numbers adjusted also -- to dial in the proper line lay when in retrieving mode.
Best,
Fred
thanks for the reply ed there is a 238 spool and arbor NOS on ebay but can't quiet tell if it's metal or not. Looks like it might be but I haven't gotten a response back from the seller yet.
I started tearing down a 221 to restore it and have found a few hiccups. The first photo shows the spool with drag washers trapped inside. What's with that metal disc?(the spoked section that looks like part of the spool) It's molded into the plastic spool...holding the drag washers hostage. I'm guessing these drags aren't removable?
The second pic shows the spool's drag ratchet. This piece was dry as a bone...no lube...and it's condition is the proof. It seems to work fine, but sho is ugly! Should this be replaced? Fred...do you have this piece?
Got everything you need, Mike --
Just get a little flat blade screwdriver under the edge of the 8 tooth drag retainer -- and it will just pop out.
Goes back in place easily enough.
You will find a drag stack with resistex hard washers -- which are very effective & nickel coated brass alloy.
CF can be substituted -- but must be cut to size.
Let me know what you need after you get the stack loose.
There is a lot of rust and crud to clean up on this one -- but no hill for a mountain climber like you.
Looks like the under gear clicker may be stuck -- if it tore up the click wheel that badly.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on July 14, 2017, 06:48:44 PM
Let me know what you need after you get the stack loose.
Hee hee...maybe I should have just pried on that retainer...it popped right off. Well, you know, 50 year old plastic makes me nervous. If that stack is correct I'll leave it alone...I like the resistex in my 270 Super. I included a close up of that clicker. It appears fine...looks like the ratchet took all the wear. It did work fine before I disassembled, but that doesn't mean it wasn't stuck at some point.
On the way, Mike...
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred, you da man! You are so right about these Quicks, they are so well built. I can't get over the size of the pinion bearing...it's a beast! I have a feeling I'll be fishing this reel. 8)
Fred helped me with that same question on the drag stack & the serrated washer "keeper". Was glad I got it off & cleaned up; note the serrated washer only goes back on with the "lip" edge up.
I replaced the resistax in mine with some CF I filed down love the reel drag as smooth as silk. You won't be disappointed going to CF in that reel.
Excuse me for revisiting this older very useful thread.
There is a couple of things I haven't attempted to try to service on a D.A.M. Quick reel.
One task I removing and servicing the worm gear and bearing.
My question is, what is the name of this tool used to remove the snap ring?
snap ring pliers some are made for "external" rings, and some for "internal" rings.....and some will do 'both", by switching the fulcrum point
Thanks Crow, found these for 7 bucks, they should get the job done.
Good investment, Clarence --
If the bearing is shielded -- I pop off the shields, toss them in the garbage, clean thoroughly with lacquer thinner and the US cleaner -- then after they are dried, they get regreased with a mixture of Yamaha blue marine grease and TSI321 or Corrosion X -- about 50/50 mix.
When drying the bearing -- it is not a good idea to spin the bearing with compressed air. It seems cool to do -- but more damage is done in 2 minutes of spinning a dry bearing at high speed -- then 2 lifetimes of fishing.
When servicing the assembly -- I also polish the spool shaft and the inside of the worm pinion with "0000" steel wool and a small drill bit -- then into the US cleaner for a few minutes to get any tiny bits of steel wool completely gone. Couple of drops of oil -- and it works like a sewing machine.
I don't say this to you, Clarence -- because you obviously know what you are doing -- but it could be useful for others just starting out on their servicing of reels.
Best,
Fred
Looks loke you found a good "set" of pliers !
As too spinning bearings with air.....don't do it ! It makes a neat "siren sound" (that starts happening about 9000 RPM), and lots of folks try it, but, it DOES damage the bearing,(running at 20,000 + RPM, with no lube will do that !) AND, the bearing can "fly apart", throwing high speed shrapnel in all directions. I've seen it happen, more than once.
Fred, would this 1/16" Stanley punch do the job of removing that pin?
Yes, Festus --
If it is a roll pin type -- a 3/32" might be better.
I keep both punches on hand, plus a 1/8" for larger pins --
But likely it is a pin with a splined, slightly wider end.
Make sure that the wider splined part of the pin is backed out -- then reinserted in the same orientation -- otherwise the crank handle hole may be distorted.
I break about 1 or 2 of these 1/16" punches a year -- so all of mine are Craftsman from Sears.
Just hand them the broken punch -- and they hand you a brand new one.
So far, my 1/8" & 3/32" punches have never broken -- but my original 1/16" punches for $4 -- have been replaced at no charge about a dozen times.
I keep a couple on hand, so when one breaks -- I do not need to stop the assembly line to go get a new one in town.
Best,
Fred
I have to admit the handle pins in DAM quicks are my least favorite thing to get out of one that has never come out before in it's 40-60 year life span depending on the model. They are a precise fit with a splined end as Fred mentioned, throw in decades of age corrosion and gum can make them a pain to get out. I have broken a little punch on them before and like fred always keep a spare punch.
Looks like l need a couple of 1/16" punches and a 3/32". The 220 and Finessa appear to have splined pins. The 220N has the roll type.
This is the only thing I haven't attempted with a D.A.M. Quick reel, removing the pin. Got a bent handle on my 220N, so I need to get it off and straighten it.
Couple of tips on these Quicks --
Always remove the pin, then the crank handle, spring/lock washer, the thumbed handle nut, washer, "C" clip.
Gear and axle just fall right out.
If this is not done -- there is no way to clean the main gear properly, clean the gear/handle axle shaft, and lubricate properly.
Get the gears out -- pop off the bearing -- remove the shields -- evacuate the old grease -- regrease, etc.
When the gears are out completely -- then use some "0000" steel wool wrapped around a drill bit -- and clean out the brass bushings for the crank axle and the rear support for the worm pinion.
After all is cleaned, burnished with Steel Wool -- then clean everything again with a liquid solution (I just use SG & the ultrasonic cleaner) -- rinse, dry, reassemble, oil & lube.
If you use a good oil sparingly such as TSI321, or similar -- after this method -- the performance of your reel will be improved 100% over a part-way job of partial cleaning and lubing.
Main thing is to get the crank pin off first.
For this, I just use a piece of 2X wood -- routed a groove for the crank -- and drilled a hole to knock the pin down into -- takes about 10 seconds.
If these reels are taken all of the way down -- burnished, lubed, and fine tuned -- they are actually better than new.
And good for another 40 years with just simple cleaning and maintenance.
Best,
Fred
I couldn't agree with fred more these quicks are darn fine and well made reels. I now might have a slight dam quick addiction/border line problem ;D
That's a good point, Fred, on popping out the crank pin--to support the piece with a block of wood. Otherwise, there's always a risk something you don't want to get bent will.
Frank
It's a shame photobucket has blurred most of the images in this fantastic thread, but there is still a wealth of knowledge and info here. A great tutorial Fred on a great Quick reel...the 221. 8)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4296/35831493911_9de5cda516_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WAiLMM)
Right, Mike --
The 220/221 size reel are favorites with me.
When you examine and use these reels carefully and knowingly -- one cannot help being impressed with the design, thought, engineering, and over the top materials.
Plus, how the various materials interact with each other, is as important as the design itself.
220 has its place as a 1:3 ratio reel good for almost any fresh water species. The 221 is the 1:5 high-speed version which also fills a great need in certain fishing conditions.
Thanks Mo!
Best, Fred
Quote from: mo65 on October 30, 2019, 01:24:20 AM
A great tutorial Fred
Yeah, it's worth reading the whole thing again.
-steve
I love the polished slide, or 'detailing under the hood' as Mo put it! Good reels, I think I need to track down a 331, then I can get the metal spool from a finessa for a braid ready salt water reel.
Cheers,
Andrew
I'm just tickled to death that I found this forum! I've tried to clean and adjust a few reels but was hesitant to dig too deeply for fear of damaging them. After reading through several of these tutorials, I am confident I can do a complete take down, cleaning and reassembly. Thanks to the gurus that impart their vast amount of knowledge and wisdom upon us newbies!
Fred,
Regarding spools on these. I know you've said that N series and non-N series are not interchangeable, and that if you put an N series spool on a non-N series shaft the spool sleeve will be stuck indefinitely with the only method of removal being cutting the spool sleeve off.
My question is, how do you know if the spool is from a N series or non-N series? I picked up another 221 cheap and having gone over one already full Fred-style, I want to do the same with this one and fish it. Problem is, the sleeve is stuck hard on the shaft. The button doesn't depress at all, I've had it soaking in penetrating oil but the button does not budge at all. Now I am wondering if it is the wrong sleeve and not likely to change. All good if it is, I will leave it as a permanent and just fish it. Otherwise, I'll keep going and try some cold/heat to free it up.
Cheers,
Andrew
Thought I'd share what could go wrong with these reels, if you don't have the right tools. I was almost too embarrased to post this, as I almost did 'googan' a very nice reel. I disassembled one of these reels, cleaned and out all the old peanut paste. I used a wood block in between the pinion and a ball pein hammer to hammer out the pinion as I did not have a soft faced hammer, which worked fine (albeit with a lot of force).
On reassembly though, I couldn't get the pinion to seat back fully into the bearing, the pinion just kept gouging into the wood, and I was using a lot more force then comfortable. My next thought, was to assemble the reel, and use the pinion nut to pull the pinion throught the bearing. And this is where I completely failed, it was still too tight and it stripped. Thankfully, it stripped the nut and not the pinion!
At this point I gave up and went and bought a soft faced hammer, which cost more then most of the reels I buy. The thread on the pinion I ran over with a die (M8 x 0.75mm if anyone is wondering) just to make sure it was fine, and I stole a replacement nut from another 221 I have. I have also found a replacement nut which will go on the second, less pristine 221 to make it fishable, although the outside diameter is 1mm larger which is workable but not ideal for other reasons. While at it, I bought some 0000 steel wool, and wow that made a difference!
Thankfully, I came out of this on top. After the full Fred treatment I am ready to move from the Penn camp to the DAM camp, it also means I can have small reels in right hand wind (bye bye 430SS and 712's, it's been good)
As a rough idea of how tight the tolerances are on these pinion-bearing assemblies, I've attached a photo of the bottom of the pinion. It has six evenly spaced marks from where they've used a press to push the pinion in, and indented the hardened steel. Even with a soft faced hammer I was exerting more force then I was really confortable with, and won't be separating them in the future.
Judging by the appearance of rust on the spool shaft -- under the brass spool sleeve -- the shaft rust likely goes up higher inside the sleeve.
Salt water will do this -- or just not adding a drop of oil from time to time.
Show us the spool -- top and bottom, plus the drag knob, and also the clicker assembly under the spool.
I suspect the spool and assembly are correct -- just rusted.
If the spool sleeve or spool shaft are ruined -- I can send you those parts when I send out the 331's.
But that sleeve should come off by tapping it with a nylon or rubber faced hammer -- after the P-Oil treatment.
If not -- no worries -- we have remedies.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on January 16, 2020, 03:02:40 AM
Judging by the appearance of rust on the spool shaft -- under the brass spool sleeve -- the shaft rust likely goes up higher inside the sleeve.
Salt water will do this -- or just not adding a drop of oil from time to time.
Show us the spool -- top and bottom, plus the drag knob, and also the clicker assembly under the spool.
I suspect the spool and assembly are correct -- just rusted.
If the spool sleeve or spool shaft are ruined -- I can send you those parts when I send out the 331's.
But that sleeve should come off by tapping it with a nylon or rubber faced hammer -- after the P-Oil treatment.
If not -- no worries -- we have remedies.
Best, Fred
Thanks for the quick response Fred! Here are photos of the complete assembly, I would not at all be surpised if it is rusted tight, as you can see the whole drag assembly is rusted. I will keep going with the penetrating oil and throw it in the freezer as well, see if I can start to free it up a little!
Cheers,
Andrew
Yes, that is the correct 220 spool, Andrew -- just a rust issue.
Best, Fred
Don't forget that a vinegar soak will loosen up galvanic corrosion. You can soak the sleeve & upper shaft in vinegar over night & it may very easily pop loose. You may get a little surface rust on the steel main shaft & the brass may turn pinkish but both will clean up easily with a little buffing/burnishing.
Quote from: festus on October 19, 2017, 03:24:17 AM
Thanks Crow, found these for 7 bucks, they should get the job done.
Was that a Harbor Freight Special Clarence?
I need those. I have switched my game lately to big spinning reels. Fin Nor and Quantum.
I'm tired of using makeshift split ring tools.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on January 16, 2020, 05:06:52 AM
Don't forget that a vinegar soak will loosen up galvanic corrosion. You can soak the sleeve & upper shaft in vinegar over night & it may very easily pop loose. You may get a little surface rust on the steel main shaft & the brass may turn pinkish but both will clean up easily with a little buffing/burnishing.
I had a Penn Seaboy 185 with the gear/sleeve/drags so corroded and stuck that I thought it would
never come apart. An overnight vinegar soak did the trick. Yes...the brass all turned pink...but all pieces were usable and clean. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on January 16, 2020, 02:38:43 PM
Quote from: Midway Tommy on January 16, 2020, 05:06:52 AM
Don't forget that a vinegar soak will loosen up galvanic corrosion. You can soak the sleeve & upper shaft in vinegar over night & it may very easily pop loose. You may get a little surface rust on the steel main shaft & the brass may turn pinkish but both will clean up easily with a little buffing/burnishing.
I had a Penn Seaboy 185 with the gear/sleeve/drags so corroded and stuck that I thought it would never come apart. An overnight vinegar soak did the trick. Yes...the brass all turned pink...but all pieces were usable and clean. 8)
I've always been able to bring the brass color back with a green scotch-brite buff.
Well, I left it sit overnight in vinegar, the brass sleeve came up nice and pink and I thought we might be on here. Nope, wouldn't budge. I've got a spare spool assembly, so my thoughts were to cut the sleeve off (as I have a spare), but save the shaft. Out came the dremel wheel, about 5 minutes of tentatively cutting grooves down both sides and separating revealed a horrible black mess of charcoal coloured rust. Got it all cleaned up and the photos below show what's left of the shaft due to rust! The spring function on the brass tabs is gone, and there ain't much meat left on the shaft. Fred, I may need to speak to you about some parts for this 221...
Cheers,
Andrew
Glad to send you a new spool shaft & spool/arbor sleeve, Andrew --
I will send it along with the pair of 331 high speeds -- and the other little parts you need.
N/C.
Best,
Fred
My harbor freight ultrasonic and vinegar has helped me get some cruddy reels apart and cleaned. It has been worth the money been using mine for close to 5 years now. I even put brake fluid in it to soak parts with the heat to get off crappy old peeling paint.
Just did a complete tear down and rebuild of a 330.
It still seems a bit sluggish (much better than before cleaning out the old brown grease). I used penn grease and reel oil.
Nothing seems to be binding. Should I be looking for something slightly bent?
Quote from: ReelFishingProblems on April 08, 2020, 11:01:37 PM
Just did a complete tear down and rebuild of a 330.
It still seems a bit sluggish (much better than before cleaning out the old brown grease). I used penn grease and reel oil.
Nothing seems to be binding. Should I be looking for something slightly bent?
Like Fred has mentioned many times, try burnishing the brass bushings and the inside of the pinion. That will usually slick things up nicely. 8)
It's always possible that something could be bent, Nick --
Part of my early background was working on electronics -- TV's, stereos, radios, amps, etc.
I was always taught to eliminate the simpler explanations -- it was quicker and more effective.
Mike is right --
Assuming a thorough cleanup, burnishing and polishing of the crank axle, crank bushing, spool shaft, and pinion worm gear inside -- I use "0000" steel wool on these insides wrapped around a drill bit -- then another cleaning, rinse, and dry.
Don't forget to burnish and polish the tail end of the worm pinion gear & the bushing that supports it at the back of the casing.
If all of this micro-tuning is/has been done properly -- then You could move on to too much thick grease in the wrong places.
The spool shaft, crank shaft, and tail end of the worm pinion should only be lubed with synthetic oil -- no grease.
And the main bearing needs to be fully evacuated of any lubricants and crud -- soaked in a beaker of oil for 10 minutes -- than lightly lubed with a mixture of 2/3 light marine grease -- mixed with 1/3 synthetic oil.
If all this has been done -- then look for something else.
But the simplest solution to sluggishness after cleaning -- are the above possibilities.
I polish the mating metals just until they are hot to the touch and a mirror-like sheen -- that is just right.
Photos?
Best,
Fred
Mo,
You are absolutely right. I have see him post it repeatedly. I should have just followed the steps he posted. I got lazy and thought that the burnishing and polishing was just an extra step for the very detail oriented repair/refurbish. I think of many of the experts here as master craftsmen that far exceed my ability. But there is no better time than now during the stay at home order to practice all the techniques discussed on this forum and try to get good at them.
Fred,
Thank you again for your endless patience, for reposting that step by step process so anyone can follow it correctly.
Nick
Quote from: ReelFishingProblems on April 09, 2020, 10:43:56 AM
Mo,
You are absolutely right. I have see him post it repeatedly. I should have just followed the steps he posted. I got lazy and thought that the burnishing and polishing was just an extra step for the very detail oriented repair/refurbish. I think of many of the experts here as master craftsmen that far exceed my ability. But there is no better time than now during the stay at home order to practice all the techniques discussed on this forum and try to get good at them.
Fred,
Thank you again for your endless patience, for reposting that step by step process so anyone can follow it correctly.
Nick
Yes, it is a funny thing on these old Quicks, Nick, and others --
The over-built strength of these under-valued DAM Quicks, manufactured tolerances, engineer's selection of softer and harder metals (steel, bronze, aluminum, and such), that have "zero" tolerance degradation over 50 or 60 years -- means that all these reels need -- even when abused -- is a thorough going through -- paying particular attention to details that would not matter with a typical 55 year old reel -- since most would not be worth restoring after over half a century.
All we are doing is removing a half Mil or less -- of built up tarnish on the metal mating surfaces -- until they work smooth and slick WITHOUT any lubes -- then when the modern synthetic oil and synthetic grease is applied -- they are actually better than when they were new.
As an example, I can take a brand new spool shaft & worm pinion gear out of the new parts bins from a half century ago -- and unless I remove the accumulated tarnish of time -- they will not operate at optimum.
I know that I sound like an old woman sometimes -- but this is where my personal craft has evolved over 40+ years, so far. So all I am trying to do is offer advice that is not written in any books, or on any other websites, or even explained by the original excellent engineers -- because they are not with us today.
Basically -- these are useful and efficient shortcuts based on decades of experience -- and any time I discover a new or more efficient way -- I add that to the recipe.
The yardstick of success in restoring these old soldiers -- is to not only hear no friction noise -- but for the experienced reel mechanic to not feel any roughness or sluggishness, either.
On Alan's website -- there are many of us who like to share these techniques -- freely and openly. Guys like Sal, Tom, Bill, Mike, Daron, Festus, Alan, and a few dozen others. In this day and age of toss-away reels and other products -- ours is a dying art that we are reviving for those who are interested.
The seemingly tiny details that are often overlooked by most reel techs -- make up 95% of the difference between a serviced reel -- and a solid and capable reel that has gone to the next level that few techs even know exists -- a reel that is ready for another half century of capable fishing.
IMO.
Best,
Fred
Let us know if you get that reel limbered up Nick. 8)
I greatly appreciate the help and encouragement.
I tore the reel down again and cleaned off the grease and oil.
Below is everything laid out
I don't have a punch for the handle assembly (it should be here Sunday)
I used a nail for the spool shaft (and the pin went somewhere I haven't found yet, which led to ordering the punch)
Good, Nick --
If you burnish these marked parts with "0000" steel wool and Nevr-Dull where possible -- then clean the parts burnished again, dry, and reassemble with proper amount of lubes (not over-doing it) -- it will likely be perfect, or close to it.
Also do the South side of the oscillation brass connecting arm.
If you can't find the spool stop pin -- or if it is bent -- just PM me your mailing information -- and I will drop one in the mail -- N/C. It is a 100041.
Glad you are getting that crank assembly taken apart. As soon as you punch out the pin -- there are (7) parts that would benefit greatly by a proper cleaning and burnishing. It is not necessary to remove the gear from the crank axle. Just clean the gear, axle, and pin all at once -- better to leave it intact.
Best, Fred
Great reminder, once again. I've burnished all internal cleaned parts, including most springs, from the beginning of my reel restoration/servicing hobby. It has become so natural and part of my process that don't even think twice about it. I noticed right away that any metal parts left to sit in lacquer thinner more than an hour came out with a thin film on them. Anything less than an hour still had old lube & film on them. I opted early on to let them soak overnight since I don't have to get reels out to clients. When the parts come out of the thinner jar they're wiped off with a non-greasy rag and immediately burnished with a wire brush, green scotch brite or 1000 grit paper, depending on their surface, to remove that thinner film. I haven't found the need to use a buffing wheel, yet, but it sure would improve the surface and maybe eliminate some paper burnishing. The moral of my story, though, is that burnishing has become so common place that I presume everyone knows about and does it. Shame on me for making assumptions, I know better. ;D
Gentlemen,
Thank you for all your help.
I just got finished servicing my 330 properly this time.
It is an amazing world of difference. It is smooooth!
Can't wait to fish this reel.
Nick
Quote from: ReelFishingProblems on April 13, 2020, 08:21:27 PM
I just got finished servicing my 330 properly this time.
It is an amazing world of difference. It is smooooth!
Bravo! 8)
Nice job, Nick!
Best, Fred
Hi team,
I've gotten around to cleaning up a parts bucket 221. It's the only reel I have left un-serviced at the moment, might be time to find some more... I have just noticed the line roller is rusted on solid, any hints on how to get it off with completely stuffing it or the bail wire? Have already tried soaking in gasoline, then vinegar. It is not budging!
Cheers,
Andrew
If it were mine I would remove it from the rotor & bail arm and let it soak in penetrating oil for a couple of days, and then cover the line guide/roller with a piece of leather and try to gently work it back and forth a few times with a small pliers. The leather should keep the roller from getting scratched. If it still doesn't come loose I'd soak it some more & try again. It should eventually break loose. You need to be persistent, yet gentle. Once removed you can clean it up well so it works as it should.
Hi Andrew —
I use a jar filled with straight Lacquer Thinner — with the ultrasonic cleaner.
No heat — 16 minutes — let it stay in the lacquer thinner overnight — then hit it again for 16 minutes in the morning.
Should come right off.
These often times become rusted if not serviced or if used in the salt.
Tommy is right, of course — his method should work also.
In the meantime, I have a package of (2) DQ 331's ready to post tomorrow morning — which is a trade for the Penn Spinners you sent me. I'll slice open the package — and send you a new bail, tungsten-carbon line guide, a lock washer, and an acorn nut.
Then you can report on the progress getting the line guide off the old bail later — and have a back-up. In the meantime, you will have a new bail assembly with no burrs — or chance of cutting your line.
N/C.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on August 19, 2021, 04:09:41 AM
Hi Andrew —
I use a jar filled with straight Lacquer Thinner — with the ultrasonic cleaner.
No heat — 16 minutes — let it stay in the lacquer thinner overnight — then hit it again for 16 minutes in the morning.
Should come right off.
These often times become rusted if not serviced or if used in the salt.
Tommy is right, of course — his method should work also.
In the meantime, I have a package of (2) DQ 331's ready to post tomorrow morning — which is a trade for the Penn Spinners you sent me. I'll slice open the package — and send you a new bail, tungsten-carbon line guide, a lock washer, and an acorn nut.
Then you can report on the progress getting the line guide off the old bail later — and have a back-up. In the meantime, you will have a new bail assembly with no burrs — or chance of cutting your line.
N/C.
Best, Fred
Fred,
You are a life-saver! I've got the old one soaking in penetrating oil, still won't budge (tried wrapping in leather then gripping with pliers). I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, if more penetrating oil doesn't work then will give it a nudge with some heat and see if that works.
This is off the same reel on page 6 of this thread that had the spool stuck on, with a completely rusted out spool shaft. Has had a hard life in the salt for certain!
Cheers,
Andrew
The new 221 bail parts are already on their way to Australia, Andrew —
Along with a couple of DQ 331's and a surprise extra reel I think you may enjoy fishing.
Went out day before yesterday (Thursday). Let me know when it arrives safely — kind of a large box.
I have tracking — but think that only works until it passes the edges of the US border — then tracking goes black.
Best Regards, Fred
Quote from: foakes on August 21, 2021, 03:05:35 PM
The new 221 bail parts are already on their way to Australia, Andrew —
Along with a couple of DQ 331's and a surprise extra reel I think you may enjoy fishing.
Went out day before yesterday (Thursday). Let me know when it arrives safely — kind of a large box.
I have tracking — but think that only works until it passes the edges of the US border — then tracking goes black.
Best Regards, Fred
Oooh a mystery reel, that is exciting! Thank you again Fred, you are a great help to a lot of people in the fishing community!
Regarding the tracking number, would you mind PM'ing it through? I think last time you sent something I was able to track it on my side through Australia Post.
Cheers,
Andrew
Don't know how to put a photo on a PM easily, Andrew —
Here is the tracking number without your address —
Best Always,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on August 22, 2021, 03:05:28 AM
Don't know how to put a photo on a PM easily, Andrew —
Here is the tracking number without your address —
Best Always,
Fred
Thanks Fred,
Tracking works through Australia Post! With COVID transit times have bean a little lengthy, good that I can keep an eye on it though!
Cheers,
Andrew