I have two of these reels. I am getting about 5lbs of drag. I assume the washers are shot. How would I go about fixing this? How much drag can I expect to gain if I were to switch to Smooth Drag?
You'll get plenty of drag. I have changed over several of them to C/F. Make sure the line is not slipping on the spool.
Regards,
Charlie
The CF's in my 50H (same drag stack as the 47LC) "accidentally" reached 18lbs of drag; after tightening to 15lbs (was shooting for a hair over 16lbs on the spring scale), the drag pressure ramped up steeply with smaller increments of additional tightening--really easy to overshoot. So, there is "room" above 16lbs...but it may take time and effort to set it exactly to what you want.
Smooth Drag has retail packaging of a full CF replacement set for the 50H--you don't need to ask or measure for individual washers.
Porthos, Did you install the washers with or without grease?
With.
Daiwa sealine 50h is one of the best small reels ever made (that's not a Penn, of course;)
Great for the northeast inshore fisherman, and with cf's it rocks!
Dom
Any idea what could be going on with this reel? I was getting 4-5lbs of drag with the stock washers. Now that I installed carbon fiber I am only getting 8lb. Yes the reel has braid on it but it has sufficient backing.
Are your Belleville washers in ( ) config?
What is the stack height of your CF's used vs. the factory washers?
Is the first CF thick enough so that the first keyed washer is sitting on it with sufficient travel along the grooves inside the main gear and are not bottoming out?
Too bad this thread fizzled...
I'm just pulling apart a NOS Daiwa 47H. The gear has the ridge inside so I have to figure out drags that will work for it. ( Can't use the original card board looking stuff).
1.44mm thick original
20.72mm OD
13.28mm ID
9.35mm overall thickness w/metal washers.
Can anybody save me some time on which washers to order?
I checked Dawns, #12? But her site shows they are .76 thick, so can I assume I need to double the bottom? If I double all the fiber I end up with 9.62 total. Close enough? I guess I can reduce the spacer height to reduce the difference.......
Alan should know this...he uses these reels for his rock cod fishing setups.
It's too bad Alan has to feed his family, we could have him all to ourselves.
I used one of these for my buds' salmon trolling set up for a couple of seasons. Back when Alan was doing Fishermans Warehouse reel service days pretty regularly.
I swore we changed out the drags to CF all those years ago, but found the originals are still in both of these 47's. I think Alan probably said they were operating smooth enough, and to just use them 'til they failed. But they never did. (A pre-cursor to the $20.00 rule? ;) ).
I'm tempted to just put them back together......
Quote from: Rancanfish on June 06, 2015, 03:50:06 AM
Too bad this thread fizzled...
I'm just pulling apart a NOS Daiwa 47H. The gear has the ridge inside so I have to figure out drags that will work for it. ( Can't use the original card board looking stuff).
1.44mm thick original
20.72mm OD
13.28mm ID
9.35mm overall thickness w/metal washers.
Can anybody save me some time on which washers to order?
I checked Dawns, #12? But her site shows they are .76 thick, so can I assume I need to double the bottom? If I double all the fiber I end up with 9.62 total. Close enough? I guess I can reduce the spacer height to reduce the difference.......
Randy,
How does the inner diameters of the "cardboard" washers compared to the outer diameter of the gear shaft? And the outer diameter of the "cardboard" washers to the inner diameter of the main gear? Does the main gear have the inner lip? If there are any gaps, like what I found for the Sealines 30H and 50H, factoring in the gap(s) may get you closer to the matching (or close enough) CF's from Dawn or Penn.
As for the 0.27mm difference, the only way to know for sure if it is a non-issue is to dry-fit and reassemble the right-side plate...the old trial and error method.
Wai
EDITED: SORRY I WAS WRONG >Wai, are you asking is the fit of the washers snug? < THEY DO NOT. There is a gap between the 'cardboard' drag and the post.
The gear does indeed have the ridge so I will no doubt be doubling the bottom one. (And maybe the others too).
Wish I had a box full of drags to pick from, it's frustrating to have these laying on a tray all apart.
And out of boredom I tore apart my 170h too, so I have that to do too.
The old style main gears have the ridge in the bottom. If you order a new gear from Daiwa it will not have the ridge. I just take a dremel tool & a grind stone & eliminate the ridge. I've done it with 47's all the way up to 900's then you don't have to do any doubling up of the bottom washer. It's easier to build the stack that way & use the thinner bottom keyed metal washers on the top & bottom.
Now that's some good advice Rudy. Fix it yourself and problem solved. ;)
I just looked up some of my old notes. If you want to use Penn CF washers get 3 of 6-113 & enlarge the I D to .470 inches & use 1 of 6-155 for the under gear washer & enlarge the I D to .470 inches then use the original metal washers. This is after you grind out the ridge in the main gear. Adjust stack height by adding extra keyed washers. That's the easiest & cheapest way that will greatly improve the drags.
Thanks Rowdy and Porthos. I brain farted this all up. I was sitting away from the reels typing, putting out incorrect answers. I edited my answer to Porthos.
I also dug around and found a bag with (6) 6-113h drags in it. I put them over the post and you are right, the ID will work.
My plan now is to temporarily scuttle one reel, steal the thinner washers out of both reels, and put one of these together. Then call Daiwa and order replacements of what I stole.
I'm going to be grinding the gear and the OD of the washers (which I was hoping to avoid).
I guess there is no drop in drag set up unfortunately.
These will be sitting for another day or two. I have to go to work.
You could leave the ridge intact and just increase the inner diameter of the first CF's; doubling up to ensure that the first keyed washer clears the ridge...did that with my 30H. The rest of the CF's can sit snug around the gear sleeve.
You will lose some drag surface that way. Small amount but aren't you trying to get all you can. What's a little grinding work. Daiwa thought it was a better way by eliminating the ridge on replacement main gears. It took them awhile but they figured it out.
Depends on what one is after.
With the ridge intact, my 30H maxed at 16lbs drag with a 3+1 config...3lbs more than the 13lbs I need to achieve a functional 40lb max setup. From a benefit-cost perspective, not losing any sleep over the possible additional 0.25, 0.50, 0.75, etc., lbs gain that I MIGHT of gotten with grinding out the ridge. I'm LAZY that way. ;)
The higher the drag the smoother it will be at lower settings no matter how minimal. Every little bit helps. Aren't we here to improve & experiment even if it takes a little bit of effort? As far as doubling up on the CF washers I would rather use them single & have the CF washers rubbing on the metal washers & not on each other. I don't need any extra fuzz in my reel.
Wondering how flat a surface you end up with grinding the ridge? What's the technique?
Just use a stone with a flat end & only grind the lip not the whole surface. Eyeball it & a steady hand. The finish doesn't have to be perfect. If you can't do that order a new gear from Daiwa (there cheap) they won't have the lip on the later gears.
I got a set of six drag discs from hprbearings on Ebay specifically for the 47h.
I ground down the lip, doubled the drags and used the original metal washers. I figured these reels worked super as salmon trollers with the original drags, so an upgrade of greased carbon was plenty good enough. No 5 stack, no nothing.
My Dremel tool shaft stopped spinning about 1/2 way thru the grinding job, don't know why. I went to a back up Black & Decker and it suddenly started loping (changing speeds). I may have fried them both. Certainly not caused by grinding off the little lip. Both tools were the electric versions.
Anyway, I did no CF grinding. The replacements are a little narrow but since there are now six I think they will function fine. Ordered another set for the other.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Quote from: RowdyW on June 13, 2015, 02:25:04 AM
Just use a stone with a flat end & only grind the lip not the whole surface. Eyeball it & a steady hand. The finish doesn't have to be perfect. If you can't do that order a new gear from Daiwa (there cheap) they won't have the lip on the later gears.
This is the reason why I chose not to grind...can't trust my self to be that steady free-handing with a Dremel. ;)