It's been a while since I posted... here's a recent project to upgrade a couple of reels I purchased second hand.
ABU's classic C series reels are a dream to work on. Wherever possible the engineering is similar between models, parts are often interchangeable between models of the same size and spares are readily available for most... even quite old... models.
I can't imagine how many 6500C3's are out there but its a whole lot. These are 2 reels I acquired recently. One is a 6500C3 Daintree - model #06 00, the other is a slightly earlier #99 10.
There are only minimal differences between them... mostly around the clicker. If you have a 6500C3 of any model, I hope this service tutorial will help. Just open up your specific schematic and otherwise the general approach should be similar.
Here's the reels... for the tutorial I've focused on the 'Daintree' model.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050773.jpg)
Back out the 2 right side plate assembly captive retaining screws and remove the side plate assembly... put it aside for later
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050774.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050775.jpg)
Remove the spool (Ref #970387)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050776.jpg)
Now we can service the spool beginning by removing the spool shaft (Ref #802631) and the spool pinion gear (Ref #19373)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050777.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050778.jpg)
Remove the brake assembly (Ref #19372 & #'s20211) from the other end of the spool after first removing the c-clip (Ref #13084) that secures it.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050782.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050783.jpg)
Now the spool bearings (Ref #13472 - size 3x10x4mm) and bearing spring washer (Ref #13104) can be removed. For some reason, this reel had a second spring washer beneath the 2nd spool bearing that isn't shown on the schematic. With some testing, it became really obvious that this washer was badly impeding freespool so I left it out. (maybe someone thought it was missing in the past so put one in??)
The best tool for removing small bearings is simply a bent paperclip...
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050784.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050780.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050781.jpg)
The bearing shields can be removed, the bearings cleaned (I use Carby Cleaner), oiled (I use Corrosion X) and replaced unshielded.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050785.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050786.jpg)
Reassemble the spool and give it a spin to make sure everything is running well... sweeeeet, sweeeeet spin!!
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050788.jpg)
Moving on to the left side, back out the 3 side plate screws (Ref #13582) and remove the side plate (Ref #23049).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050789.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050791.jpg)
To clean the inside of the left side plate remove the level-wind idler gear (ref #21800)... it's secured to the shaft by clips molded as part of the gear itself. Slip out the spool clicker assembly (ref #'s 21805 & 21807)... then give the inside of the side plate a good clean with a lint-free cloth and cotton buds (to get into those hard to reach areas)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050792.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050793.jpg)
I like to brush on a fine coat of grease to the inside of side plates to protect against corrosion. Then the right side plate assembly can be put back together with a single drop of oil going on the idler gear shaft.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050794.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050795.jpg)
To service the level-wind begin by moving to the left side of the reel frame plate (Ref #803204) and removing the level-wind retaining clip plate (Ref #5178)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050796.jpg)
Unscrew the pawl cap (Ref #5177) and remove the level-wind pawl (Ref #5177)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050797.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050798.jpg)
Now the worm screw (Ref #5205), worm screw cover (Ref #2496) and line guide (Ref #5174) can be slipped out, cleaned, oiled and reassembled.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050799.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050800.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050801.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050802.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050803.jpg)
The left side plate can now be returned (with a tiny dob of grease on the thread of each screw) and the spool replaced in the frame.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050804.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050805.jpg)
Time to sort out the main mechanical workings of the reel. Begin by removing the handle nut cap screw (ref #15652) and handle nut cap (ref #20934)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050806.jpg)
Now remove the 'e-clip' (ref #4490) and handle nut (ref #15359) allowing the handle (ref #20931) to be lifted off.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050807.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050808.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050809.jpg)
Next remove the handle spring washer (ref #5115) and drag star (ref #20680)
Now... you're all lining up your parts in order as you remove them right?
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050811.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050812.jpg)
To get at the internals of the reel, now back out the 2 right side plate screws (ref #13584)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050813.jpg)
Lift off the right side plate (ref #23052) and carefully put aside the 2 belleville washers (ref #5131) that sit atop the anti reverse bearing. (this is one area where you might find significant differences between ABU 'C' series reels... some have anti-reverse bearings, some have anti-reverse dogs)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050814.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050815.jpg)
Now gently remove the drive gear assembly consisting of the drive shaft (ref #22079), main drive gear (ref #212000), drag washers and the anti-reverse bearing collar (ref #22001)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050816.jpg)
Changing the drag to Carbontex is pretty much automatic for me... it's worth noting that these days, most ABU reels come new with carbon washers!!
The drag assembly is separated and the Carbontex washers are greased (with Cal's or Shimano drag grease) and used to replace the corresponding 4 originals (ref #'s 13169, 20907)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050818.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050819.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050820.jpg)
To disassemble the clutch first lift off the clutch position holder (ref #22808), then lift of the pinion yoke (ref #20664) and pinion gear (ref #20848)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050821.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050822.jpg)
Lift off the clutch slider (ref #22807), clutch lever (ref #20671) and clutch link arm (ref #20685)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050823.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050824.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050825.jpg)
Finally, lift off and put aside the main gear thrust washer clutch button (ref #5189).
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050826.jpg)
Now all the components can get a thorough clean, the outside surface of the brake plate a coat of grease, a sparing smear of gear grease on the drive and pinion gears and it all goes back together.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050827.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050828.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050829.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050830.jpg)
Reattach the right side plate and reassemble the drag star and handle (adding a protective light brush of grease to all the 'hidden' metal surfaces as you go)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050832.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050833.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050834.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050835.jpg)
A drop of oil on each handle knob and we're done.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050836.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050838.jpg)
Just a quick final note... when I serviced the other C3 I discovered that the splines securing the spool pinion gear had been stripped, allowing it to turn and thus rendering the level wind inoperative. Most level winds use a 'sacrificial' nylon gear somewhere in the system so that should you get a finger stuck, the gear will break before bits of you!!
I also replaced one of the brake blocks (ref #20211) on the casting brake since it was sticking.
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050839.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af217/slinkymalinky65/ABU%206500C3/P1050840.jpg)
And there you have it. One of ABU's most popular and enduring reel types... and for good reason. The 6500C3 is simple, well engineered, easy to maintain, easy to modify to suit particular tastes and performs beautifully.
Cheers from Australia, BigT
fabulous! i will cross this one off my list. alan
good one bigt,we missed ya tony
Nice, I love my ABU's. I've been fish'n with those reels since I was a kid and I ain't saying how long ago that was....... ;D
Great, Thanks Big T.
Im doing a rebuild of an abu 6000 c3 i picked up off ebay. Parts are nigh on identical. Ebay sale description said "reel is good looking on the outside but it doesn't work". I thought "excellent, cheap purchase and repair coming up here". After cracking it open and replacing the pinion gear (6.3 ratio) that was stripped it is working fine.
Now the hard desicion, place it in my collection or put it back on ebay?
or fish with it?
Too true Alan ;D
6000 size abu's are perfect as a light inshore or estuary reel. Loaded with 15-20lb braid and it could well be a spare reel for friends that think im a charter operator! ;D
Hi I am looking for a bearing upgrade, looking at my reel it say 99-10.
Does anyone in here have this model and what size bearing should I order? I see a 3x10x4 and 4x10x4 at smoothdrag.com
Should I go with ceramic or stainless?
Thanks guy
the stock stainless steel bearings should be fine. i would open them up, clean them out and reinstall them lightly lubed and open.
What AT said. A stock clean and dry 4 x 10 x 4 (yours) placed on the conical end of a sharpened pencil, and flicked hard, should spin for 12-15 seconds. If it does not, keep cleaning it till you hear it rattle like it's going to come apart, and spins for a good length of time. Usually by the third dunk in diesel starting fluid (careful, very flammable).
I'm having a hard time installing the spring washer, I know you suppose to install it (), I happen to clean it and forget how it go.
someone have a pic to show how it is done? in this pic , does the front go in first, and than do I install the second the same way, or do I install in by flipping the other side?
Flip it.
Both have the same curve, just put one concave (ie curved towards the spool) and the next convex (ie curved towards the handle).
Good luck, Justin
let say the top surface on the washer is head and the bottom surface underneath it is tail
If i'm holding it exactly as in the pic would head go first and than tail ???
If you can answer this , I think i can manage to get it right this time. Sorry, this is best idea I can think off to help me get it right this time.
Thanks guy :D
Head downwards if I understand correctly, for the bottom washer. The next washer the other way around so you get a gap between the washers - a "springiness"...
I think it's possible to see in this pic the "standard configuration" for those belleville washers (I've tried to attach a pic, so let's see if it worked) :)
I'm pretty sure I have better pics somewhere but couldn't find any right now.
My worm gear on my 6500c3 need to replace because it is rotate to the right and won't move back. Should I get the original c3 worm gear kit or should I go with the c4 worm gear kit? I see castaway website sell the 6000 worm gear kit which has 2 bearing.
What are the con and pro?
Thanks
Quote from: ountida on October 12, 2012, 06:19:40 PM
My worm gear on my 6500c3 need to replace because it is rotate to the right and won't move back. Should I get the original c3 worm gear kit or should I go with the c4 worm gear kit? I see castaway website sell the 6000 worm gear kit which has 2 bearing.
What are the con and pro?
Thanks
Hi,,, it may be the line pawl, not the worm. If the worm is out, clean and dry, check both ends for irregular wear and brass showing through the chrome at the crossover points. Check the line pawl for excessive wear on the crescent... if so, the pawl cannot make the turn at the end of the worm.
I have 2 reel. One of them have 2 brake block, now this reel have the regular washer. I got the new carbon washer for it.
On the other reel it has 6 brake block, but the washer look different. This look like the carbon washer except the small 4th washer look like a regular washer, the other 3 look like carbon to me.
Can I grease this with cal grease since it is dry(2nd reel), or throw it away and buy the new carbon washer for it?
BTW, the washer on the 2nd reel look like new to me.
ANy help or advice would be appreciated :)
Back to the level wind - It's usually (for me) a worn level wind pawl that causes problems. If your second reel is an abu level wind, try swapping the pawl from the reel that has the working level wind into the problem reel. It takes a few minutes to check and costs a few dollars for a new the pawl if it is the problem.
I know this is a really old post, but what are the bearing sizes on the 6500 C4? It the roller bearing available and what size is it?
Quote from: spiderpig on January 16, 2014, 11:17:28 AM
I know this is a really old post, but what are the bearing sizes on the 6500 C4? It the roller bearing available and what size is it?
Hello. A C4 already has the one way needle bearing (1) Then 2 ea- 4 x10 x4 bearings in the spool (2&3), and finally one ball bearing on the non geared end of the worm 3 x 7 x 3 (4). The one way clutch bearing is available seperate. It's normally located at aftermarket vendors, as it needs various tools to remove and re-install, so Abu does not show it as a part for the round reels. Hope that helps. KD.
PS: Mikes Reel on the north side of the 49th parallel has made up a very nice tool for this. Decent price as well.
Which see: http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/bearing-extractor-installer-p-114106.html
sorry to pile in on this old thread also but I've been wondering about the Instant Anti Reverse Bearing as well. Any advice on how to clean it (i'd rather not order the tool if possible) and what grease to put back in there? Same as for the gears?
Also I assume this tutorial is good for my 6500 CT sports Mag. Is that correct?
Thanks,
Travis
To just clean a still working IAR you have to be cautious to not damage the plastic parts of it with a cleaner that will react to it. Some use mineral spirits some use gas but only with a moistened tip of a cotton swab. Just lightly rub it across the exposed IAR while its still in the sideplate. Only oil lightly, never grease it. I use Corrosion X or Inox oil. Many of the tutorials on this page of the forum display and talk about maintaining various Ambassadeurs with IAR's and can beof great help to you
Sidebar: check the boss on the side plate that the iar is in. With aggressive hooksets, it can be either loosened, or torn right off. Also, check the sleeve for a dark grey band in the center, and dents from the needles of the iar.
Progressive repair depots will have the tooling to re-affix the boss, rather then sell you a new side plate.
Thank you so much. After a deeper look on the website I was thinking about taking it out but if I can do it in place I'm going to go that route.
I have a 6500c3 that I love
I only use it for shore fishing, and with my local shore fisheries which dont get bigger than 5# or 8# at the most I havent feel the need to upgrade to carbontex.
I know new drags will give me 5# more on average, but does that upgrade is really noticeable on this reel?
if I have 5# more and by chance I need to use all the new total drag will the structure of the reel be strong enough ?
Upgrading your reel's drag is not necessary if your reel had Abu ' s Carbon Matrix drag system already installed.
Upgrading the drag washers is not intended to increase drag pressure but to ensure a smooth drag. Jerky drags lead to break offs or broken leaders.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 10, 2015, 03:12:21 AM
Upgrading the drag washers is not intended to increase drag pressure but to ensure a smooth drag. Jerky drags lead to break offs or broken leaders.
Gotcha
Just a little tip with Abu Ambassadeurs...
Buy a 1mm or smaller drill bit and drill a weep hole at the bottom of each side plate to allow water to drain out..
Main killer of Abu's is water sitting in the bottom of side plates - dissimilar anodic reactions!!
This tutorial was a great assist on tearing mine down and finding the issue with it. The Pinion gear yoke was kapoot! The spool bearings were also a rusty mess. So i cleaned and greased everything and reassembled while waiting for parts. Bearings were salvageable drag washers are stock originals so maybe a yoke, washers and bearings, plus a new handle or power knob. Both handles on mine are wallowed and floppy from heavy carp angling.
Surprised to find the bellevilles in this (( configuration instead of this. () when I opened it up. Maybe I had it open years ago and had no clue back then. Still wonder about that....but I do know how bellevilles go nowadays.
The weep hole in the side plate is an awesome tip. Drilled those while I had it apart.
Hi...Newbie here and looking at this tutorial and dont see any pictures...just numerous squares saying Please update your acount to enable 3rd party hosting and something about photobucket??? Do I need to do something to view the pictures? Many thanks for info
Quote from: Noviceman on August 17, 2017, 02:54:34 PM
Hi...Newbie here and looking at this tutorial and dont see any pictures...just numerous squares saying Please update your acount to enable 3rd party hosting and something about photobucket??? Do I need to do something to view the pictures? Many thanks for info
No. Photobucket is now holding everyone's third party hosted photos for ransom until they signup to pay a horrendous fee. Unless Tony updates his tutorial with new photos you will just have to read the captions, follow the instructions and take photos (should be standard procedure, anyway) as you disassemble so you have a reference to put it back together.
Thanks for update....Will give it a go....always concerned about something flying out when I open it up..want to upgrade to thecarbontec drag washers which I have already purchased..
Quote from: Noviceman on August 18, 2017, 01:51:52 PM
Thanks for update....Will give it a go....always concerned about something flying out when I open it up..want to upgrade to thecarbontec drag washers which I have already purchased..
Nothing should fly out when you open this one...just be cautious when removing c-clips and tiny parts...and lay parts out in order of removal. Also, photos can still be viewed...ya just have to right click that stupid photobucket "update image" and then select "open photo in new tab". 8)
Also, photos can still be viewed...ya just have to right click that stupid photobucket "update image" and then select "open photo in new tab". 8)
[/quote]
And close all those silly annoying popup adds. :( Nice tip, Mike! I wasn't aware you could do that. 8)
I'm putting new drag washers in my 6500 C4, a question about the Axel Clip (20090) does the flat side go in the cap or the cone shaped side?
Also, I saw Bryn mention Abu "carbon matrix system), when did Abu start installing these and how can I tell? Do they look like CF washers?
thanks,
Rob
Quote from: Recoil Rob on June 11, 2019, 03:51:15 AM
flat side go in the cap or the cone shaped side?
That's such a weird flimsy little piece. The cone points out (to the right on a right hand reel).
-steve
Yes thanks Mike, cheers Don.
Thank you.
Hi all, I just brought a 6500C3 reel, the double nylon/plastic cog in the line leveler is stripped, it there any secret on how to get that cog out, its a tight fit & I dont want to brake anything, also were may I get another plastic gear, cheers Don.
Some of those are Pressed on . I heat them up with a high heat Hair dryer and pop em off and or since it is broke anyway just drill some holes around the center to relive the pressure and pop it off. Then put the replacement in some real hot water to make it easier to pop back on . Spares are harder to get these days BUT if you don't find one quick or another member don't have it yell at me you have my e-mail .
Good thanks Billy, I just brought a few ABU ambassadeur parts, I have the same part for a 7000, but not the one I have, this good one I have has more teeth, keep well cheers Don.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMwei_JhUYI&t=201s
I did it this way.
The new one can be pushed on quite easy.
Grt Piet
Yes, this cog has an E clip, but this is for demonstrational purposes only. A length of braid, I think this is 30lb, terminated with a strong knot and wrapped around a wrench. Position the line so it comes up on opposing sides and pull up to remove the cog.
(https://i.imgur.com/4nmfQF8h.jpg)
Gee Peit thanks for the u tube, one of the very few u tube that has a good volume.
Mr Canary, good clue there to thanks.
I decided to remove my line level permanently, much better for casting, & lets face it if I can guide the line onto a 6/0 Senator, then I will be able to manage a narrow spool like this.
I had trouble with the reel refusing to turn when I placed it back together, so after 3 or 4 attempts, I remove the two plastic parts 20211, had know trouble after that, with them gone, that should, improve free spool, more for casting, now braid.
I had some 16 strand braid here, the label it said, fishing corner, 60lb 500M thickness 0.29mm it is multi colour changes colour every 10 M, so 25 x 10 =250 m, they call the braid Japanese technology, made in China, cant recall what I paid for it, now, hope this helps someone, cheers Don.
Old thread, I know, but I'm having the same issue as NoviceMan viewing the photos on the tutorial. There are no links where the photos are supposedly located in the tutorial, just the text descriptions. I'll try fumbling thru this reel, but I always appreciate seeing the tutorials and experiences on alantani.com before tearing into a reel. Thanks.
What are you trying to do to your reel?
Take lots of pictures as you go. Keep everything in order as it came off. That with the text ought to get you thru it