Reel Repair by Alan Tani

After a long wait, they will be done Wednesday!

There are four colors to choose from: Silver, Black, Green, and Red. I can't guarantee that the Green and Red will match perfectly with the frames that are out there, but it should be close enough that the fish won't mind! ;D
As soon as I get them I will post pictures.

Pricewise, things are close to the original estimate. The addition of polishing did throw things over budget.

I am offering these at $83.00 a set, shipped. Those of you outside the U.S., we'll work out shipping.

They do have clickers and come with all new parts(click knob, dog, spring and hardware.) They also include bearing cups with ABEC-5 open bearings AND a set of bronze bushings! New SST hex drive screws are included,too.

This is the list of people who laid claim to these sets. They have first rights, then I will fill any orders that are added. So if you want a set, post and I'll add you to the list. I know it's been a while, so if any of you on this list want to drop out of the running, I understand, just let me know.

I do need to hear from everyone on the list regarding the knurled bearing cup. I need to know who wants them versus the original screwdriver slot cup.

Thanks everyone for your patience!

Rothmar2
dayone
Rustyoldcolt
bsfchen
broadway
mhc
david hall
rjones
twotone
three se7ens
jigmaster501
striperlou
aiala
frank
rancanfish
doug
? ? ? ? --yes this a username!
fishforfun
bluefish69
sluggo
robjob
maxdoubt
swill88
thorhammer
anglingarchitect
alto mare
reel224
foakes
pacrat
vilters
redfish12
sdler
bmitch
p-deverett
rowdyw

Yeehaw! I'm ready for two sets of silver! (w/slot screw caps).

And I need three additional bearing cups. (only one is needed if I can't get side plates.

Thanks Tom.

One silver one green sir.  Stoked!!

Tom...

(1) silver with the original bearing cups.

Are these used with the 500/501 spool or 505/506 HS spool?

Thanks,

Steve

Quote from: swill88 on December 05, 2015, 08:57:54 PM
Tom...

(1) silver with the original bearing cups.

Are these used with the 500/501 spool or 505/506 HS spool?

Thanks,

Steve

500/501

Thanks Joe!

Do we pay now or when you get them ?

I need a silver and a black. Screwdriver bearing cups ok.

Quote from: thorhammer on December 05, 2015, 08:52:37 PM
One silver one green sir.  Stoked!!

I will take knurled for both please.

One set in red with a knurled bearing cup please Tom - I have sent a PM with my contact/paypal details.
Thanks
Michael

Tom, I'd like one green set with the knurled knob, please. (And I'll send you those Baja Pacific plates once I've got your address.)   :)

~A~ 

Quote from: twotone on December 06, 2015, 02:59:21 AM
Do we pay now or when you get them ?

Please don't send any money until I have everything back from the platers and get everything ready. I'll let you know.
Thanks!

Quote from: nelz on December 06, 2015, 07:09:16 AM
How will these work as far as the quick take-apart feature? I have a 500S, it's on the left plate. I'm in for red if it retains it.

You lose the quick takedown screw. Sorry.

Tom --

I will take one silver and one green set, if I am not too late.

Knurled knobs if possible -- otherwise, screws will be fine.

Thanks,

Fred

Tom,
I'll take a silver set with knurled.
Thanks
Mike

Hi Tom, please put me in line for a silver set w/ slotted bearing caps. if no silver sets left, black is good too. thanks!

Tom, if there are any green available I'll take a set with the screwdriver cup!

I'm in for a silver or rd if you have any left.

knurled cups. I will take the color that has the hardest and longest lasting finish.

Tom, I would like red and knurled cup.
Thank you,  ..  lou

Quote from: jigmaster501 on December 07, 2015, 12:19:13 AM
knurled cups. I will take the color that has the hardest and longest lasting finish.

That would be silver.

Black is the hardest & most durable.

The anodize has the same hardness. Silver doesn't show scratches as much. There was one run of frames that I had the black type III hard ano, that was harder.

Type 3 is the hardest but at any given level, silver will show scratches less.

If I'm not too late may I request Silver, knurled caps. If no Silver Black, then red, then green. I'll send a PM with contact info.
Sid

Hey Tom,
 Happy to see I'm gonna get the two jig masters I bought all dressed up... 1 green and 1 silver for me, please.  Both with the knurled bearing cap please.
Let me know when to send the dough.
Thanks for bringing these to the table,
Dom
PS- when the 113h plates come out I'll need 3 red and 3 silver👍

Sorry for checking in late Tom, but 1 silver set, knurled bearing caps.
Thanks for making these available, very excited to own some of your work!

Oooh..I guess I'm fashionably late 😟😟 tom if there is any left in silver I'll take one. If no silver than red..or black or green. In that order. With the knurled bearing cap....please.

Bob

PUT ME DOWN FOR ONE SILVER SET WITH THE ADJUSTABLE BEARING KNOB IF THERE ARE ANY LEFT

   Thanks Tom,


I am still on four the 4 I ordred.... 1 silver, 2 red, and 1 black with knurled cup + 3 extra cups.


If there are any leftovers, I would also take another silver and one green set, but only after all pre orders are filled and any newcomers are taken care of..........Wednesday can't come soon enough, Thanks Tom.


 I'll pay you for the extra 3 custom knurled cups at the same time.


 Ted

Knurled cups for mine, PM sent, thanks.

I would like a silver set with the knurled knob.  Thanks in advance for what I am sure is an awesome product.

Yikes!  I was first in the second group of guys saying they wanted plates,  but  I'm bumped completely off the list?

I demand a recount!   ;D

I think you are the first reply on this thread.

Yep, I saw a "chad" lol

Tom, if you didn't produce such amazing products I wouldn't be afraid to miss out.   ;D

Nothing but love brother.

Tom, I'd like a red set if there any left.

Peter

Hello all,
I've got the goods!
I need to hear from the following people because either I lost their details or they didn't provide any details as to color and what kind of bearing cup desired.

bsfchen
twotone
frank
doug
bluefish69
sluggo
robjob
anglingarchitect


I'm going to start PMing everyone with with their orders to make sure I got it right. Please don't send any PayPal until you hear from me. In the mean time, here's some pics!!

(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0443_zpswuc4q7lo.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0442_zpsx8oxcz5q.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0441_zpswj15dcdu.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0446_zpsmlgvvk0q.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0440_zpsp5fegijo.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0445_zps4w6tce7t.jpg)
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0439_zpsudv0qw5e.jpg)

Thanks for your patience!

Gorgeous!

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 11, 2015, 01:22:04 AM
Gorgeous!

X2

...and WOW!

What can I say, Sexy!!!
Awesome job, Tom! ...and I'm glad I went with the green cause my wife is gonna flip when she gets this!
Thanks and PM me so I can buck up👍
Dom

Tom, if you have a extra set in green I would like a set with knurled knob.    RUDY

Right now I have to say the Silver is sold out! I have to reserve the rest until I hear back from a few people mentioned above. Black, Red, and Green are still available.

Tom, is the black more of a gunmetal color as it appears in the pics?

Nice! 2 Black with 2 knurls, 1 Sliver with regular bearing cup.

Tom, those look awesome, thanks for making us happy ;D.

Sal

1 Red 1 green, both  with knurled cups.

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 11, 2015, 02:33:43 AM
Tom, is the black more of a gunmetal color as it appears in the pics?

It's black, I wish I could offer a gun metal!

Those all look fantastic, but that green is just WOW!

Tom

I would like 1 set of Black & 1 set of Red. Both with Knurled Bearings

Mike

Tom if available I would like green with knurled bearing cup.  I'll PM you my info.  Please respond with payment instructions.  Dominick

I'll take 1 in green

Hi Tom,

I resent my original PM's for order and contact info.

Thanks,
Frank

I'll be out and about for the weekend. I will continue shipping on Monday! Have a great weekend everyone.
Tom

I tried sending an IM, but not sure if it went through.  I wrote:  Are there any aluminum jigmaster sideplates still available?  If so, I would like to purchase two sets.  Silver is my preference, but I would also be OK with black or red (I would only want to buy one red set though, not two).

Actually, I would also be OK with a green set, so if you have any available in any color, please put me down for a couple.

I prefer the knurled bearing cup also.

Hey Tom, beautiful work as always!!!! I have a red coming and if you have a green available I would like one with the knurled bearing cup. Please let me know.
............................Lou

I spoke with Tom to get his blessing before I posted this, and he encouraged me to let everyone know that I have a good selection of components to use with Tom's beautiful side plates, so please consider this post as complimentary to Tom's, not as a hijacking.  There are new Tiburon 501 frames in red and silver, Accurate Accuframes in purple (99) and black (500), and a large collection of lightweight aluminum Newell Jigmaster conversion kits (spool, bars, base and rod clamp) for all four Jigmaster widths (501 - 1 5/8", 99 - 2 1/8", 500 - 2 7/16" and Yellowfin Special - 2 3/4").  I also have a limited quantity of Penn and Newell aluminum spools for the 501 width, Accurate and Newell spools for the 99 width, Penn aluminum 500 spools, red Penn Anniversary 500 spool, and Newell 500 spools. 

Please send me a PM or email at rfpauly@aol.com if you might be interested in any of the above.

Thanks,

Randy Pauly
Vintage Offshore Tackle

Green for me please

One set in Black for me Big Tom!
Whatever caps you have available are fine, Whenever you get to it.

Will these fit Alan Chui's dbl dog bridge? I don't remember seeing if it does.

Received my CC plates today... INCREDIBLE gorgeous emerald-green masterpieces!! I am speechless (which happens very rarely):

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/P1000698_zpspyt0fvlf.jpg)

Proving, once again, that the creative/artistic/engineering talent here is absolutely off the charts... THANK you, Tom!   :) ;) :D ;D

~A~

oh my. I can't wait.

Tom,
I haven't received an invoice yet. I keep looking at the photos and I can't resist asking to add a set of black with knurled...if black is still available. So that would be one silver and one black, both knurled.
Thanks
Mike

   Wow Tom, fantastic workmanship, and attention to detail.


   Just want to say thanks. I built 4 reels yesterday with your plate kits, silver black, and red and they are all perfect match ups in color to my tib frames and absolutely stunning and smooth as silk. I never knew a jigmaster could turn into such a precision instrument, but proof is in the pudding.

    Ted

Tom,
I know I am a little late to the party... well ok... alot late, but I would like to request:

-2 sets of those beautiful green sideplates with knurled knobs.

PM sent.

Quick update-- You guys are keeping me busy! I'm trying to get orders invoiced and shipped as quickly as possible.
Thank you all!

hi tom , I would like two in black knurled if available . Let me know how to pay. Sent you a PM also. Thanks Mitch.

Joe,
Those are bronze bushings. I would assume they are to use in place of bearings for kayak and surf guys who's reels might get a dunking. Tom referred to them in the first post.

Thanks their Excellent!

Quote from: Aiala on December 15, 2015, 09:29:07 PM
Received my CC plates today... INCREDIBLE gorgeous emerald-green masterpieces!! I am speechless (which happens very rarely):

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/P1000698_zpspyt0fvlf.jpg)

Proving, once again, that the creative/artistic/engineering talent here is absolutely off the charts... THANK you, Tom!   :) ;) :D ;D

~A~

WOW!  :o :o :o  I ordered mine in silver, but am now green with envy! beautiful for sure! 

If you have a set of red plates left. I would like a set with knurled knobs.

Joe,  I use this rule of thumb,  If I'm going to cast with it for distance, oil (321)  or if I'm trolling, grease.  Hope that helps.

PS.  Good to see you here again regularly.

Quote from: Reel 224 on December 17, 2015, 09:12:19 PM
Tom; received my plates today, BEAUTIFUL!! Have question though. What are the two brass spacers fore? Are they fore the bridge?

Joe

Hello Joe, those are bearing bronze bushings. As mentioned, they are for surf or 'yakking. You could use them anytime distance casting isn't a priority.

I'm really sorry I don't have time to reply to everyone. If you have PM'ed me or posted on this thread, rest assured I have you down in the books. As I go thru and fill orders, I will contact you.
Thanks!
Tom

i got mine and Aiala is right these things are beautiful and flawless.

I received a letter today from St Charles, Mo. The envelope was empty. So any one know who this is?  ???

Man I sure hope I am not too far down the list to get a set!  :-\

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 19, 2015, 12:05:23 AM
I received a letter today from St Charles, Mo. The envelope was empty. So any one know who this is?  ???

the check is not in the mail!

Simply amazing....
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0131.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0131.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0132.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0132.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0133.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0133.jpg.html)

Than you Tom.

Sal

Hi Sal --

What color frames are you going with?

Matching or contrasting?

What handles?

Best,

Fred

All matching Fred. Handles would be from Adam, knob probably silver aluminum, not concerned about matching those.
By the way, I tried to fool you guys with that green spool here is the real pic ;D

(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0134.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0134.jpg.html)

Sal

Yeah, Sal --

Figured right away it was either painted with green latex and a house brush -- or photo-shopped.

(None of your spools would ever look that rough).

But I figured to let you have your fun -- until someone else asked you about it.

But you are an honest man.

Red Ryder, Silver Bullet, and Green Hornet.

Best,

Fred

   Nice try Sal, your attempt at the green spool had me laughing so hard I gotta clean the spray off my computer screen. :D

 Did you notice the red spool will have more line capacity with the slightly different arbor ??

 :D :D, you know, that silver is not Penn, but works perfectly.

Quote from: Reel 224 on December 19, 2015, 07:55:47 PM
Sal: Could you do a pictorial assembly of the Cotez Conversion?

I don't see why not Joe, I always do. This one will take a while though, I don't have all needed parts.

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 19, 2015, 08:06:27 PM
:D :D, you know, that silver is not Penn, but works perfectly.

Quote from: Reel 224 on December 19, 2015, 07:55:47 PM
Sal: Could you do a pictorial assembly of the Cotez Conversion?

I don't see why not Joe, I always do. This one will take a while though, I don't have all needed parts.

Say What ?? all you need is a donor jigmaster. Show us how a standard jigmaster converts over, then when you get all Alan C's internal parts you can update the tutorial. Aren't you itching to build one anyways ?? C'mon Sal, it'll take you about 10 minutes and a glass of vino  ;) ;)

I second that emotion!  ;D

Quote from: RowdyW on December 19, 2015, 10:15:11 PM
I second that emotion!  ;D

Rudy, most are getting tired watching the same guys screw up these reels, step up to the plate, it would be nice seeing you or Ted do one ;)

Sal, I don't have my plates yet, no camera, & wouldn't know how to post it if I did.  :-\  I have the vino though.

Quote from: RowdyW on December 19, 2015, 10:34:21 PM
Sal, I don't have my plates yet, no camera, & wouldn't know how to post it if I did.  :-\  I have the vino though.

I'll come over and tape you. :)

Before or after the first bottle?? :P

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 19, 2015, 10:23:26 PM

Quote from: RowdyW on December 19, 2015, 10:15:11 PM
I second that emotion!  ;D

Rudy, most are getting tired watching the same guys screw up these reels, step up to the plate, it would be nice seeing you or Ted do one ;)

Sal, I built my 4 a week ago when they arrived. You are the tutorial master.......one more won't hurt  ;) ;)

I put my silver plates together with a red accurate 501 frame.

I have it done up right with a double dog stainless bridge, AT sleeve, old school steel main, a large power handle and braid.

This will be a blackfish reel. The tolerances are so tight that the braid doesn't look like it will ever go in.

The thicker walled spacer tube for the drags doesn't fit the frame so I just went with a regular one that I had.

I greased it up nice inside and went with the bearings. I might just do the bushings but we will see.

I want to do a Delaware/VA blackfish trip soon when they start getting the big ones.

This will be a beast of a reel.

This also could be a deepwater seabass reel too.

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 19, 2015, 10:51:53 PM

Quote from: RowdyW on December 19, 2015, 10:34:21 PM
Sal, I don't have my plates yet, no camera, & wouldn't know how to post it if I did.  :-\  I have the vino though.

I'll come over and tape you. :)

RowdyW, I'm just up the street. I could come over and tape you before or after we hit the pier.... it would save Sal the trip down.... not that he isn't welcome, but it's Christmas week and it's already crowded enough down here! They're back!

Quote from: Reel 224 on December 20, 2015, 01:50:57 PM
I started to place my parts for the build and I found that the custom spacer from Pro Challenger is to large in diameter to fit the new plate. The opening is 13.21 mm and the spacer is 13.40 mm. Do I have to go with the standard spacer?

Joe

Yeah, that's a shame...so darn close. We should have told Tom to enlarge the opening a hear prior to anodizing.
Joe, don't mess with the plate itself, you could sand the outer side of the spacer, I've done it a few times. Of course the Chrome will come off and expose the brass, but adding a little grease there should keep it happy.
The other option would be to keep it stock.
On my own reels, I would definitely sand the custom sleeve to get a snug fit.

Sal

I am new at this and not quite up to speed on all the parts. I want to use the Tiburon 501 frame. which spool do i need to get. Who has the stainless gear sleeves. Also will the 5.1 gear set fit.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 20, 2015, 02:09:49 PM
I am new at this and not quite up to speed on all the parts. I want to use the Tiburon 501 frame. which spool do i need to get. Who has the stainless gear sleeves. Also will the 5.1 gear set fit.

Mike, a standard 501 spool will work, or you can buy Tiburons version.  The gear sleeves you can get from MysticParts.com or Smoothdrag.com.   As far as gears, I just use the older steel gears. I have no need for 5-1, but think those are available here if you do a search.  Have fun.

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Joe, this isn't for you, I know you must have some good tools. This is for the guys like me that need to do it by hand.
Here is how I do it:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0142.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0142.jpg.html)
a little tape on a bit to help hold the custom spacer sleeve
I'll use 400/500 grit at start and finish with 100/1200 wet&dry sandpaper
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0139.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0139.jpg.html)
I place the sandpaper on a flat surface and let the dremel spin at medium speed, don't try to hold it in your hands it gets very hot
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0144.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0144.jpg.html)
here is the sanded custom sleeve
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0145_1.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0145_1.jpg.html)
and a perfect fit
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0147.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0147.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0149.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0149.jpg.html)
don't worry about the brass showing, a little grease there is all that its needed.
Penn spacers used to be bass, not chromed.

Sal

If each person only got (1) set of plates that's like over 30 reels out there with new plates.  Let's see some finished products!  Show us your new plates installed! 

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 20, 2015, 03:15:11 PM

Quote from: mikeysm on December 20, 2015, 02:09:49 PM
I am new at this and not quite up to speed on all the parts. I want to use the Tiburon 501 frame. which spool do i need to get. Who has the stainless gear sleeves. Also will the 5.1 gear set fit.

Mike, a standard 501 spool will work, or you can buy Tiburons version.  The gear sleeves you can get from MysticParts.com or Smoothdrag.com.   As far as gears, I just use the older steel gears. I have no need for 5-1, but think those are available here if you do a search.  Have fun.

I see that the plates come with bearings and bushings as a choice. I also know that the spool shafts are different sizes. My question is which spool do I use for the bearings with the 501 frame. Will the 5.1 gears work? I would like to get as many parts from Smoothdrag and Tiburon as possible. Better to be safe than sorry.

Very good Joe, if that's what a gunsmith uses, I must be doing something good then :).

Hey all, just a quick update.
I'm out of bearings for a couple of days and I had to buy shielded instead of open ones.
I will ship out the remaining orders this coming week.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 20, 2015, 05:01:10 PM

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 20, 2015, 03:15:11 PM

Quote from: mikeysm on December 20, 2015, 02:09:49 PM
I am new at this and not quite up to speed on all the parts. I want to use the Tiburon 501 frame. which spool do i need to get. Who has the stainless gear sleeves. Also will the 5.1 gear set fit.

Mike, a standard 501 spool will work, or you can buy Tiburons version.  The gear sleeves you can get from MysticParts.com or Smoothdrag.com.   As far as gears, I just use the older steel gears. I have no need for 5-1, but think those are available here if you do a search.  Have fun.

I see that the plates come with bearings and bushings as a choice. I also know that the spool shafts are different sizes. My question is which spool do I use for the bearings with the 501 frame. Will the 5.1 gears work? I would like to get as many parts from Smoothdrag and Tiburon as possible. Better to be safe than sorry.

The bearings fit a 501 spool. You are thinking of a 506, which has bearings and a different sized spool shaft. These plates are for a 500/501, not a 505/506.

Thanks that is what I wanted to know. I should be able to get all the parts together with the information I have.

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 19, 2015, 07:38:02 PM
All matching Fred. Handles would be from Adam, knob probably silver aluminum, not concerned about matching those.
By the way, I tried to fool you guys with that green spool here is the real pic ;D

(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0134.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0134.jpg.html)

Sal

Where do you get matching spools, frames, and clamps,from?

I am doing a Albacore special. Tiburon frame and spool. Black Pearls gears, double dog break plate and hardware and second generation stainless gear sleeve. Bryan's 5.1 drags. The rest I found here and there. You can build a reel and never leave this forum if you want to.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 21, 2015, 11:01:51 PM
I am doing a Albacore special. Tiburon frame and spool. Black Pearls gears, double dog break plate and hardware and second generation stainless gear sleeve. Bryan's 5.1 drags. The rest I found here and there. You can build a reel and never leave this forum if you want to.

Hi Mike,

You might want to return the gear set because my pinion gear will not fit the Tiburon spool. The diameter is larger. Please send it back and I will refund back to you.

Thanks,
--Alan

Quote from: anglingarchitect on December 21, 2015, 09:49:14 PM

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 19, 2015, 07:38:02 PM
All matching Fred. Handles would be from Adam, knob probably silver aluminum, not concerned about matching those.
By the way, I tried to fool you guys with that green spool here is the real pic ;D

(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0134.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0134.jpg.html)

Sal

Where do you get matching spools, frames, and clamps,from?

Ok, I'm starting to get a few PM's so here it goes.
The matching spools are very hard to get, the red spools are out there, but are not easy to find. If you do find one expect to dish out $60 to $80 for one.
The silver spool above is a testing spool from Back Pearl, that one is raw, not anodized, I have it here because I do lots of testing for Alan. As I told you guys earlier,  we have guys that could get anything done for us, as Alan, Tom, Doc and a few others.
Silver is also out there, but agaiin, very hard to find.
I  happen to have one of a kind custom silver spool
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0162.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0162.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/DSC_0163.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/DSC_0163.jpg.html)
This one is the real deal and was sold to me at a very good price by Randy, from Vintage Tackle a while back.
Thanks again Randy.
so there you have it.
Sal

Tom

I received my 2 sets of plates today. They are so pretty, I just can't wait for the rest of the parts. You do some great work

Thanks

Mike

I mounted my plates on a gold Accurate 501 frame tonight.  Boy,  I drove myself crazy trying to figure out why I couldn't get the Allen head screws into the bridge, lol.  

Just so there is no mystery for anyone else, you must use your original bridge screws.  I had the hand cramp of all hand cramps holding it tight while trying to turn that darn little Allen wrench.  ;D ;D

I did not scratch anything.

What a sweet reel now. Steel gear, 5 stack, SS gear sleeve and a Kolekar handle.  A double dog bridge will be added later with a SS eccentric and yoke.  Should last forever.   Thanks, TOM!

This is all nice, but you need to take photo guys and don't tell me you don't know how, if I could, so could you ;D

If any are still available I'd like 2 sets. 1 Green, 1 Black and both with knurled bearing cups. Aloha!

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 22, 2015, 10:43:41 AM
This is all nice, but you need to take photo guys and don't tell me you don't know how, if I could, so could you ;D

Sal,
All our members are not as computer Savvy as you. ;)
Give them time, they will come. I'm just too busy right now.
I only purchased one Black set. I'm getting in a little over my head with all the inserts and members reels.
Mine will be used on the super wide Jigmaster 338.
Yogi,
I haven't forgotten about those gears. I'm just getting too busy for my britches. ;D

Quote from: Shark Hunter on December 22, 2015, 10:56:52 AM

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 22, 2015, 10:43:41 AM
This is all nice, but you need to take photo guys and don't tell me you don't know how, if I could, so could you ;D

Sal,
All our members are not as computer Savvy as you. ;)
Give them time, they will come. I'm just too busy right now.
I only purchased one Black set. I'm getting in a little over my head with all the inserts and members reels.
Mine will be used on the super wide Jigmaster 338.
Yogi,
I haven't forgotten about those gears. I'm just getting too busy for my britches. ;D

No Daron, you got the wrong guy. I said if I could do it, so could they.  I'm not that good with this stuff.
Mike has been here 8 months longer than I have, even if he doesn't know how to, I'm sure someone at the house could help.
But I get it, as myself, he probably doesn't want Mrs. Solomon  finding out what he's been buying ;D

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 22, 2015, 10:43:41 AM
This is all nice, but you need to take photo guys and don't tell me you don't know how, if I could, so could you ;D

Sal

Ask Dominick about me with my Computer & pictures. He spent over a hour on the phone with me. I will bug him again when I make a few changes. I did tell her this morning what the 2 sets of plates cost. She never even blinked.

Mike

There you go Sal.  Sideways!  That's why I don't post pics.

 This was actually the first time I was able to use my Chromebook to post a pic.  Ever.

Sal, feel free to mess with the pic if you can.  Between my older bro and wife we taught me a new way to post a pic. I'll explain;
1) Take the pic with Iphone.
2) Email it to my gmail account.
3) Open email and save.
4) Open this AT.com thread post.
5) Hit modify post, then additional options.
6) Choose file, Add pic link.  Then hit post.
7) Thumbs up in front of Hot tub enclosure fence I made up.

What is everyone doing with the clicker hole on these plates.  I am looking at my 501 and the clicker assembly does not look removable or am I missing something, which I may add is frequently!   :D

Thanks!

There's a clicker assembly in the parts bag that came with it.

 ;D ;D ;D ;D

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 22, 2015, 04:51:43 PM
There's a clicker assembly in the parts bag that came with it.

  Nice pic Randy, someday I may do pics too !!


  After I assembled a cortez conversion jigmaster I noticed the shift lever was not flush with the plate, in fact it pointed away from the plate a bit, so I used a shift lever off a del mar and that shift lever hugs the plate much nicer, as those Delmar shift levers have a slight bend, same as the long beach 60 & 65.

Ted

ok folks we have seen exactly one reel, which is outstanding. if you people can can get a Beachmaster AR spring in you can figure out how to post pics. Let's see them!!!!!!!!!!!


PS. I still cheat on pics and have yet to figure out how to host :) :) :)

Posting pictures, I followed the instructions on this site and it work great!
1.  Sign up for a photobucket account
2.  Upload the pictures to photobucket
3.  Copy the .img link on the right while viewing your picture in photobucket
4.  Paste it in the new message on this site
done. 

Ted, that is great info.  I noticed the same thing right away.  The nylon insert keeps it off the surface a bit.

I'm not familiar with the Delmar so I'm going to have to do some searching to look at it.

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 22, 2015, 05:36:21 PM
Ted, that is great info.  I noticed the same thing right away.  The nylon insert keeps it off the surface a bit.

I'm not familiar with the Delmar so I'm going to have to do some searching to look at it.

   Ha ha, you're batting 1,000 today Randy, that's the 2nd successful pic you posted.............and thanks to Sal, I see the light !! Here is my first ever posted pic !!

   The long beach 60 & 65 have same slight bend on the shift lever....any one of them will work as well.   The old style picture plate long beach 60 & 65 had flat shift lever, so make sure its from the LB with the curved plate (1951 & up).


  Ted

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 22, 2015, 04:39:50 PM
There you go Sal.  Sideways!  That's why I don't post pics.

 This was actually the first time I was able to use my Chromebook to post a pic.  Ever.

Sal, feel free to mess with the pic if you can.  Between my older bro and wife we taught me a new way to post a pic. I'll explain;
1) Take the pic with Iphone.
2) Email it to my gmail account.
3) Open email and save.
4) Open this AT.com thread post.
5) Hit modify post, then additional options.
6) Choose file, Add pic link.  Then hit post.
7) Thumbs up in front of Hot tub enclosure fence I made up.

You're doing good Randy ;).

Thanks Sal!  You motivated me to do a how-to on the Cortez side plates assembly, which I posted in Tom's area.

Unfortunately I could not get it to post active pics.  There is a live link but it would be better if it was just there, if you know what I mean.  ???

 Here is a shot of the nicer fit using Delmar or long beach shift lever. It looks like its close to rubbing, but it has plenty of clearance.

Very nice!  Good job!

Quote from: Max Doubt on December 22, 2015, 05:55:39 PM

Quote from: Rancanfish on December 22, 2015, 05:36:21 PM
Ted, that is great info.  I noticed the same thing right away.  The nylon insert keeps it off the surface a bit.

I'm not familiar with the Delmar so I'm going to have to do some searching to look at it.

   Ha ha, you're batting 1,000 today Randy, that's the 2nd successful pic you posted.............and thanks to Sal, I see the light !! Here is my first ever posted pic !!

   The long beach 60 & 65 have same slight bend on the shift lever....any one of them will work as well.   The old style picture plate long beach 60 & 65 had flat shift lever, so make sure its from the LB with the curved plate (1951 & up).


  Ted

Curious why you would replace the eccentric lever with another model rather than put a little bend in the Jigmaster lever already present. Why would that not be the preferred solution???

Sid, both are viable solutions I'm sure.

Quote from: sdlehr on December 22, 2015, 11:43:25 PM
Curious why you would replace the eccentric lever with another model rather than put a little bend in the Jigmaster lever already present. Why would that not be the preferred solution???

Its all personal preference Sid, I have tried putting a bend in a straight shift lever, and it never looks pretty. If it were a $30 reel I wouldn't worry about it, but after a fair investment in all the new precision components, adding a $2 factory curved shifter is not an issue for me.

Quote from: Max Doubt on December 23, 2015, 12:03:25 AM

Quote from: sdlehr on December 22, 2015, 11:43:25 PM
Curious why you would replace the eccentric lever with another model rather than put a little bend in the Jigmaster lever already present. Why would that not be the preferred solution???

Its all personal preference Sid, I have tried putting a bend in a straight shift lever, and it never looks pretty. If it were a $30 reel I wouldn't worry about it, but after a fair investment in all the new precision components, adding a $2 factory curved shifter is not an issue for me.

I suppose I would be more quick to replace with another if I had any already bent in the house that weren't already busy....  I do not. It didn't occur to me to do anything other than bend it. Different strokes for different folks.... The one on my Jigmaster was a 21-66, but was straight. Go figure. I probably bent it back to the way it once was.

Here are my Cortez JigMaster bullets! With all the goodies. Well almost, maybe some more handles and knobs. 3 down 1 YellowFin Spl to go, along with assembling the donor reels to stock condition. When I get their big bother put together, I'll use PhotoBucket so the pics aren't sideways and to save space for the server. Thanks for all your help (parts, tutorials, and for the motivation from this site).!

Merry Christmas!

Hey Sid, Ted, Tom, Randy, and others --

If anyone gets stuck and needs an eccentric shift lever -- I have an assortment in most sizes.

Lots of 21s.

Let me know -- and I will mail them out.

N/C --

Some are straight, some have a bend, some longer, some shorter -- most are new.

Many parts on Penns are interchangeable between models.  On the 21s -- most are unique to that reel.

I generally try to put on the best fit.

Best,

Fred

(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/EB42E5CC-C6F8-44DC-8C0C-D45C6CBCDCDB_zpsmvsuuwbe.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/EB42E5CC-C6F8-44DC-8C0C-D45C6CBCDCDB_zpsmvsuuwbe.jpg.html)

(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/C8723E68-34CF-4F96-9C73-75262020AEF5_zpst3xkloab.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/C8723E68-34CF-4F96-9C73-75262020AEF5_zpst3xkloab.jpg.html)

 Wow Fred, that's a heck of a lot of "leverage".....you win !!




  Here is another Cortez masterpiece......Aluminum frames are the cats meow, but sexy comes in many different shapes and forms.

Thanks, Fred. I want to come work on your bench.

Oh my Ted, gorgeous!

Oh my Fred, you are the man.  I'm going to take a drive after the first and just make reels from dust at your shop!  ;D

Quote from: Max Doubt on December 23, 2015, 02:00:53 AM
Wow Fred, that's a heck of a lot of "leverage".....you win !!




  Here is another Cortez masterpiece......Aluminum frames are the cats meow, but sexy comes in many different shapes and forms.

She's a beauty. 

You guys are doing an excellent job with these parts, our Jigmasters here are unmatched.
We should all be proud and especially the guys than make us the parts, nice team work..

Ted, that red one with posts looks awesome, you mind showing me the other side of the head plate? I like to see something.

Sal

  Sure Sal, here you go.

That is beautiful, Ted--

Best,

Fred

Thanks Ted.
The pic is too dark and at a wrong angle, doesn't the gear show from the outside? It does on mine.
That would look awesome on a shelf, but not so good to fish with.

Sal

I never noticed. .... but perhaps a wad of grease should stop most water from entering.

Quote from: Alto Mare on December 23, 2015, 05:43:47 AM
Thanks Ted.
The pic is too dark and at a wrong angle, doesn't the gear show from the outside? It does on mine.
That would look awesome on a shelf, but not so good to fish with.

Sal

This is the one I've been salmon fishing with and I love how smooth it is.

Quote from: Max Doubt on December 23, 2015, 06:01:49 AM
I never noticed. .... but perhaps a wad of grease should stop most water from entering.

Anything can be taking cared of, I had a custom gear cover plate made on mine.
This is only needed if you're using a stock stand from Penn, not needed with a tiburon or accurate frame:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15144.msg156698#msg156698

Sal

Can these be made to work on a 506hs???

billyhill, the spool shaft is a different size.

However, these come with the choice of ball bearings or brass bushings for a 501. A 506 would have bearings and a higher gear ratio.  But you could then upgrade these with a Black Pearl 5-1 gear set and have nearly the same reel.

Hope that helped.

Here's my contribution to the photo show. I'm working on getting a red spool, and I'll upgrade the handle, just can't do it all at once. I used the innards from my Dad's Jigmaster that I inherited. He bought it in the 70's and I haven't done anything with it until now. Turns out it had a steel (maybe SS) bridge plate, main gear, pinion, eccentric and eccentric jack. The pinion yolk is the only brass in the reel. Interesting that these SS parts are over 40 years old. People have been hot-rodding Jigmasters for a long time....I was surprised when I got inside - I hadn't been there in over 6 months, and at that time I didn't know what I was looking at.  I've come a long way. I told Tom the plates were "slicker than snot", amazing the tight tolerances. Sal, I didn't notice the main gear showing before I got the Tiburon frame from Randy (it was on my doorstep when I got home from work this evening.) I'm not saying it wasn't exposed, I just didn't notice with the standard foot.

Looks Great Joe!

Great work, Sid & Joe --

One thing to remember --

You are assembling your own custom reels of the highest quality components -- you are doing what few folks in the world could ever do -- and you have progressed a long way in such a short time.

Do not take your skill and these products for granted --

They are unique --

We have extraordinary members and resources here on the Alan Tani site -- and the benefits are inumerable.

That is what this site is really about...

You are both ready for graduation --

Best,

Fred

Sid, you can get a nice red spool for your reel for around $20, but the spool on there looks just fine


Joe, that's a dandy, it's like Raquel Welch and a Sherman tank rolled up into one.


   I been scratching my head trying to find a color combo I liked for the black plates and while getting ready to preparing Christmas dinner I finally settled on the black/red combo, and I kinda like it. Tom is a genius !! :o :o


P.S. I'm not ready for graduation yet, all my cortez reels are still stock inside.....but that will soon change thanks to Alan C, Alan T, and Bryan...and Sal for being our guinea pig  ;) ;)

Looking great everyone! Can't wait to get everything to get started! 

Lookin good there Ted.  Those crab legs also look pretty darn good.

oops... this was meant to be posted in the Penn Jigmaster Frame Kits thread.

Here's a challenge I had on my CC Jigmaster Frame kit. The reel was assembled soon after I got it then set aside. Something wasn't right. The first picture shows the Penn bridge screws are grabbing only a thread or so of the bridge.  

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/CC%20Jigmaster%20Frame/short%20bridge%20screws.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/CC%20Jigmaster%20Frame/short%20bridge%20screws.jpg.html)

Tightening the screws down just cross threaded them leaving them loose and I knew I had to get longer screws. (It was easy to rethread the Penn screws with an SS nut).

Reading the SS Screw thread http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13294.0  gives all the information needed.

Got 5/8" & 1" 6-40 socket head cap screws in 18-1 SS and also bought 3/8", 1/2" & 5/8" 5-40 socket head cap screws in 316 SS to change the frame screws. All from McMaster-Carr.

Went to work on fabricating the upper screws using the 5/8" screws. The two nuts give a good grip in the drill chuck and serve as a stop for where to stop filing off the threads. Quickly discovered that a drop of CA glue was needed on the nuts to keep them from spinning off when the file pressures the screw. I used a cheap jewellers file to mill and 150 emerycloth glued to a popsicle stick to finish. It took 8-10 minutes per screw; too long! I think a diamond file may speed the milling process.

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screw%20fab.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screw%20fab.jpg.html)

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screw%20prep.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screw%20prep.jpg.html)

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/makita%20lathe.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/makita%20lathe.jpg.html)

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screw.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screw.jpg.html)

Penn screws on the left.

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screws_zpsf6vh391s.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/SS%20Bridge%20Screws/upper%20bridge%20screws_zpsf6vh391s.jpg.html)

These screws were perfect for this reel. I like the look on the outside too. (Don't mind the cat hair).

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/CC%20Jigmaster%20Frame/.625%20in%20Bridge%20Screws.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/CC%20Jigmaster%20Frame/.625%20in%20Bridge%20Screws.jpg.html)

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/CC%20Jigmaster%20Frame/20151224_233950_zpsic7eormk.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/CC%20Jigmaster%20Frame/20151224_233950_zpsic7eormk.jpg.html)

This seems to be a lesson in manufacturing tolerances. I've since tried other stock bridge screws and a few worked and most didn't. Also we haven't heard from any other CC Jigmaster Frame builds to have had this problem. The bridge screws too short for this reel work perfectly in Tom's Jigmaster Plates. (A little long but there is no scraping on the Newell 99 spool).

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/CC%20Jigmaster%20Plates/Penn%20bridge%20screwa.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/CC%20Jigmaster%20Plates/Penn%20bridge%20screwa.jpg.html)

To use the 5/8" SS screws in Tom's Jigmaster Plates they will need to be shortened. I'm going to do it as I've got no other use for these screws.

(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n242/swill88/CC%20Jigmaster%20Plates/needs%20trimming.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/swill88/media/CC%20Jigmaster%20Plates/needs%20trimming.jpg.html)


Merry Christmas!

Steve

I received my side plates, frame and spool yesterday. I went ahead and put everything together to make sure I received the correct spool. I couldn't get my spool adjustment. I contacted Sal and discussed the problem with him. It turns out their is a removable post that allows for adjustment of the spool. Well it wasn't in the knurled spool cup so I contacted Tom to get one.   

Quote from: foakes on December 24, 2015, 07:33:08 PM
Great work, Sid & Joe --

One thing to remember --

You are assembling your own custom reels of the highest quality components -- you are doing what few folks in the world could ever do -- and you have progressed a long way in such a short time.

Do not take your skill and these products for granted --

They are unique --

We have extraordinary members and resources here on the Alan Tani site -- and the benefits are inumerable.

That is what this site is really about...

You are both ready for graduation --

Best,

Fred

Wow, Fred, thanks. I'm feeling all warm and fuzzy. I just read what you wrote to my wife. She and I agree that I don't do things in half measures, and that's a fault I have. When I want to learn something I jump in with both feet.

Quote from: Max Doubt on December 24, 2015, 08:23:40 PM
Sid, you can get a nice red spool for your reel for around $20, but the spool on there looks just fine

Yup, just won an Ebay auction yesterday for a red spool, $17 shipped. Randy was ahead of you on the recommendation and offered me one, but I had already set my bid up.

Just a warning when you are assembling these, and I learned this the hard way, it is possible to screw the right side bearing too far into the side plate, and it will interfere with the pinion movement and with free spool. I'm not used to messing with that ride side bearing on stock Penns, they're always screwed into the plate all the way, but the tolerances Tom has designed into these plates allow that right side bearing to be screwed in too far. I was getting frustrated trying to get proper performance, was about to set it aside for awhile, when I looked at the right side and decided to back the bearing out a turn or two. That was all I needed to do. She's smooth as silk now and I can move on to the next project.

Sid

That is the beauty of the adjustments on both the right and left sides.

The builder can get the pinion, spool centering within the frame, bearings, resistance, and operation just right to their satisfaction.

Either with Tom's screw adjusters or the knurled knobs -- it works equally well.

Best,

Fred

Quote from: Reel 224 on December 27, 2015, 01:55:00 AM
I cant wait to build another Cortez Conversions reel, but a different one.

Joe   

Me too! But first I'll upgrade the internals on this one!

 I tried to figure out why the pro challenger custom spacing sleeve would not fit and discovered it fits perfectly in a old style jigmaster 500, but not jigmaster 500S, which leads me to believe that Toms plate design was based on the smaller opening on the 500S, and Alan's spacers were based on the older model 500 opening which was larger. Without having both in your hand, you'd never know they are different size openings.

I like how Joe and Sal made theirs work, but wouldn't it be fairly simple to have some stainless ones made that fit snug in Toms plates ?? Just a thought.

  Ted

We can hope.  I'm not willing to sand off the finish to make them fit.

I believe those are copied from Lee-Pro plates,  Accurate are also tight but not the earlier plate.
It might not be that easy to get someone to make us some, unless they increase the price.
From talking with Alan C. he mentioned that there is no profit with the spacers, he's barely breaking even.

Sal

Quote from: mikeysm on December 25, 2015, 04:23:12 PM
I received my side plates, frame and spool yesterday. I went ahead and put everything together to make sure I received the correct spool. I couldn't get my spool adjustment. I contacted Sal and discussed the problem with him. It turns out their is a removable post that allows for adjustment of the spool. Well it wasn't in the knurled spool cup so I contacted Tom to get one.   

I hope everyone have a great holiday!
The removable post is required for Accurate side plates only, that's why they were not included in the sets. Can you post pics of your problem? Are you trying to build a 501 and maybe have a 506 spool?
I don't mind send you a post, but I bet that's not the problem.
Tom

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 19, 2015, 12:05:23 AM
I received a letter today from St Charles, Mo. The envelope was empty. So any one know who this is?  ???

I still haven't heard from my mystery sender...

If you sent this letter, it arrived empty. Sealed, but empty.

(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/IMG_0469_zpskb8nozrt.jpg)

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 19, 2015, 12:05:23 AM
I received a letter today from St Charles, Mo. The envelope was empty. So any one know who this is?  ???

It is from the National Gun Owners Association / University of Guns.
Try asking in the Firearms section? Or just phone them?

http://universityofguns.com/contact-us/

.

 

Quote from: Robert Janssen on December 27, 2015, 09:50:33 PM

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 19, 2015, 12:05:23 AM
I received a letter today from St Charles, Mo. The envelope was empty. So any one know who this is?  ???

It is from the National Gun Owners Association / University of Guns.
Try asking in the Firearms section? Or just phone them?

http://universityofguns.com/contact-us/

Thanks, I thought it was a member trying to send payment. Should have done my homework!
.

 

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 27, 2015, 05:39:09 PM

Quote from: mikeysm on December 25, 2015, 04:23:12 PM
I received my side plates, frame and spool yesterday. I went ahead and put everything together to make sure I received the correct spool. I couldn't get my spool adjustment. I contacted Sal and discussed the problem with him. It turns out their is a removable post that allows for adjustment of the spool. Well it wasn't in the knurled spool cup so I contacted Tom to get one.   

I hope everyone have a great holiday!
The removable post is required for Accurate side plates only, that's why they were not included in the sets. Can you post pics of your problem? Are you trying to build a 501 and maybe have a 506 spool?
I don't mind send you a post, but I bet that's not the problem.
Tom

Sal helped me out Tom. I have the correct spool it was the Post missing from the bearing cup. Also I added a small spring on the spool shaft to prevent the bearing from working its way out of the cup.  

Thanks Joe. Adjustable bearings should always be backed a little when assembling the reel, I always do.
Spool shafts vary, not by much, but they do.

Sal

Joe, me asking would be just as good as you asking, we're all equal here ;).

He are a few pics. See the knurled cup their is nothing there to center the spool. Also you can see their is no step so you can adjust forever and it won't touch the spool shaft. On the gear side you can see the step. The step allows for adjustment without it the spool can't be adjusted without a post. The spool is a Tiburon 99 spool.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 28, 2015, 12:37:54 AM
He are a few pics. See the knurled cup their is nothing there to center the spool. Also you can see their is no step so you can adjust forever and it won't touch the spool shaft. On the gear side you can see the step. The step allows for adjustment without it the spool can't be adjusted without a post. The spool is a Tiburon 99 spool.

I'm putting a 99 Newell spool & Accurate frame with Tom's plates too.

My bearing cup came with the spacer and it's a perfect fit.

Waiting on a few more parts before finishing and posting.

That is what I was try to explain to everyone it's not there. And it needs to be to get spool adjustment. Also The bearing is going to drift out of the cup there nothing to keep it there. I am using a small spring to keep the bearing in the cup.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 28, 2015, 01:10:46 AM
That is what I was try to explain to everyone it's not there. And it needs to be to get spool adjustment. Also The bearing is going to drift out of the cup there nothing to keep it there. I am using a small spring to keep the bearing in the cup.

A spring wouldn't hurt but I'm thinking the o-ring will provide enough friction.

We'll find out!

The spring is to keep the bearing in the cup. Without it the bearing will come out of the cup . Theirs no step to hold the bearing in the cup. Most reels have a retainer to hold the bearing in. Remember this reel was designed to run bushings so the step wasn't needed.

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 27, 2015, 10:58:02 PM

Quote from: Robert Janssen on December 27, 2015, 09:50:33 PM

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 19, 2015, 12:05:23 AM
I received a letter today from St Charles, Mo. The envelope was empty. So any one know who this is?  ???

It is from the National Gun Owners Association / University of Guns.
Try asking in the Firearms section? Or just phone them?

http://universityofguns.com/contact-us/

Thanks, I thought it was a member trying to send payment. Should have done my homework!
.

 

Tom, maybe they're looking for some custom revolver hand plates ;D

I doubt it.. more likely they are trying to get not give money ;)

Quote from: mikeysm on December 28, 2015, 01:22:45 AM
The spring is to keep the bearing in the cup. Without it the bearing will come out of the cup . Theirs no step to hold the bearing in the cup. Most reels have a retainer to hold the bearing in. Remember this reel was designed to run bushings so the step wasn't needed.

Mickysm, now I see what you are saying.. but you are talking about the knurled cup right? There is a step the bearing sits on and is flush with the inside edge of the cup.

On closer inspection... the knurled bearing cups I bought separately came with the spacer stud. The one that came with the plates doesn't have this spacer but mine works fine without it. The spacer fills the cup up to the stop. It might get in the way of a longer spool shaft.

Not sure why the spacer is needed.  Tom?

There's no where for the bearing to go towards the spool anyway.

If your spool doesn't fit, what's your frame width? Mine is 2.125".

steve

When I receive the post from Tom. I will post a picture to show what I am talking about.

When you put the bearing in the cup does it drop down?

On the handle side it does a Newell plastic shim washer will fix that problem. If you don't use one the bearing will slide over the post and will not completely support the spool shaft on the handle side. The Knurled cup does not allow this to happen. But it will come out of the cup if their is a gap between the clicker gear and bearing. I am using a small spring over the spool shaft to hold the bearing in the cup.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 28, 2015, 03:01:57 AM
On the handle side it does a Newell plastic shim washer will fix that problem. If you don't use one the bearing will slide over the post and will not completely support the spool shaft on the handle side. The Knurled cup does not allow this to happen. But it will come out of the cup if their is a gap between the clicker gear and bearing. I am using a small spring over the spool shaft to hold the bearing in the cup.

Mine works great without any shims on either side. When the bearings cups are adjusted properly there is no space for them to go anywhere. The're a hair+ away from the spool spindle shoulder. If the frame is a bit big you will a spacer on the handle side.

   

Here are some pictures of the handle side bearing cap. You can see the post in the first picture. The second picture shows the bearing all the way back in the cup. The bearing slid over the post .050 a shim is needed in back of the bearing to get it back over the post and flush with the bearing cap.

Ok, so here's what I came up with.
The Tiburon spool is just different enough that it causes problems.
I Used a Newell 99, a Penn 99, and a Tib 99. The Newell and Penn went together fine. The tib just barely centers and spins in the bearings.
Here's the issue:
This is a typical Penn or Newell spool shaft, clicker side. You see the transition from the 1/8" diameter to the peened surface of the clicker ratchet? Well that measures about .035"

(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/IMG_0473_zpsnu4epf4o.jpg)

Now here is the Tiburon:
They went with a straight shaft all the way to the ratchet and then welded it. That extra length won't allow Mikes spool to center and ride on the bearings correctly. Installing the removable stud is not going to solve the issue. Give me a couple of days to come up with a solution.

Thank you everyone for keeping things civil and positive.

(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/IMG_0474_zpspzz4nggu.jpg)

All of this stimulates the mind. It's a challenge it wouldn't be fum if it just pop together. I am using a small spring over the shaft to hold the bearing in place.

Tom, as you can see from the photos below, at least some of the Tiburon spool shafts have tapered ends similar to the Penn shaft that you have shown in the photo.  I bought three red 501 spools to sell as a set with the red 501 Tiburon frames for your side plates, and they all have the taper on both the clicker side and the handle side.  I do not recall ever seeing a straight, untapered shaft before.  Do you think that it might be one that slipped through the cracks, or standard production?

Randy

(http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/doen1/Reel/20151227_233416_zpsdymmmmrc.jpg) (http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/doen1/media/Reel/20151227_233416_zpsdymmmmrc.jpg.html)

Tib Stock Tib Tib I been thinking about that too.

All of my Penn spools have a tapered tip on the shaft, but most of my Newell don't.
Sal

Isn't the issue Tom is working on a 'shoulder' down the shaft to meet the bearing?

Yes that's the issue I am having. The taper is just to guide the bearing onto the spool shaft. At least the Tiburon spool fit Alan C 5.1 pinion gear. One lees problem to solve. What size and length are the Allen head screws that hold the break plate in place on the cover.

Loving this set-up!  (http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/IMG_6412_zpsxxkolahc.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/IMG_6412_zpsxxkolahc.jpg.html)(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/IMG_6408_zpsoywlhroo.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/IMG_6408_zpsoywlhroo.jpg.html)(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/FullSizeRender_zpscfmlocvs.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/FullSizeRender_zpscfmlocvs.jpg.html)

Hi guys,

I would like to know if any of the members use all my stainless steel parts for the JigMaster with this Tom's side plate set. If so, do my parts fit and work with Tom's side plate?

The reason I ask because a member told me that none of my internal SS parts for Jigmaster works . Therefore, I want to get to the bottom of it. That member is sending back all parts back to me for full refund.


Please let me know.

Thanks,
--Alan C.

Alan exactly what doesn't fit. Your Bridge and gears fit. I tested that yesterday. Also the pinion gear fits the Tiburon 99 spool. I need to make stainless bridge screws before I can test the gear engagement though. Alan what is the size and length of the Bridge screws. I havent owned a Jigmaster for 36 years so no parts to measure.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 29, 2015, 07:02:13 PM
Alan exactly what doesn't fit. Your Bridge and gears fit. I tested that yesterday. Also the pinion gear fits the Tiburon 99 spool. I need to make stainless bridge screws before I can test the gear engagement though. Alan what is the size and length of the Bridge screws. I havent owned a Jigmaster for 36 years so no parts to measure.

I heard about the bridge screws from swill88. He had to order a longer set from McMaster. You might drop him a PM and check with him about it.

Well, he said none of the parts fits or has problem (bridge, 5:1 gear set, sleeve). He stated that the pinion gear could not fit in a stock 501 chrome spool shaft. I don't know. I will have to check the return parts, but it is all good. I don't want any unhappy member.

Quote from: mikeysm on December 29, 2015, 07:02:13 PM
Alan exactly what doesn't fit. Your Bridge and gears fit. I tested that yesterday. Also the pinion gear fits the Tiburon 99 spool. I need to make stainless bridge screws before I can test the gear engagement though. Alan what is the size and length of the Bridge screws. I havent owned a Jigmaster for 36 years so no parts to measure.

Mike, bridge screws are 6-40... 

here's how I made mine...

http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=16099.msg169479#msg169479

Alan,
I just dry fit your stainless double-dog bridge into Tom's sideplate and I have a very small bind on one of the dogs. I believe it's the one at 10:00. This is the straighter of the two which is very similar to the stock shape and location. It's nothing that worries me though. A stone and/or a dremel will fix it in just a minute or two. I'm heading out the door but would be happy to photograph this when I fit it. I think it's the little dog-leg where the spring contacts which may be too tight...no big deal though.
-Mike

Quote from: PacRat on December 29, 2015, 07:25:10 PM
Alan,
I just dry fit your stainless double-dog bridge into Tom's sideplate and I have a very small bind on one of the dogs. I believe it's the one at 10:00. This is the straighter of the two which is very similar to the stock shape and location. It's nothing that worries me though. A stone and/or a dremel will fix it in just a minute or two. I'm heading out the door but would be happy to photograph this when I fit it. I think it's the little dog-leg where the spring contacts which may be too tight...no big deal though.
-Mike

I'm finding the same thing... haven't finished tuning though... later today or tomorrow.

The dog was rising up causing a problem but Alan told me how how to bend the spring's loop from 90deg down to 100deg to fix that. I think the under gear washer(s) correct thickness is critical.

Also, the second dog spring post is a little tall amd may interfere with the under gear washer or gear. A file touch up.

Never had so much fun!

steve

Joe, I have to say I love your nails.  ;D

Quote from: PacRat on December 29, 2015, 07:25:10 PM
Alan,
I just dry fit your stainless double-dog bridge into Tom's sideplate and I have a very small bind on one of the dogs. I believe it's the one at 10:00. This is the straighter of the two which is very similar to the stock shape and location. It's nothing that worries me though. A stone and/or a dremel will fix it in just a minute or two. I'm heading out the door but would be happy to photograph this when I fit it. I think it's the little dog-leg where the spring contacts which may be too tight...no big deal though.
-Mike

That is correct. That is not a bridge's issue. If you use the 2 gen sleeve, you will need to shave off a little on the dog spring post (new dog).  

Guys, all these custom parts will/might require a little twist here and there for some the internal parts.

Alan C your gear and pinon works for me. Stock alum or chrome any size. On Tiburon they work, but you need to follow Sal and Fishtticks post on how its done. Alan I like your products ! Here'(http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/doen1/20151229_161524_zpsv7amxvli.jpeg) (http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/doen1/media/20151229_161524_zpsv7amxvli.jpeg.html)s a 29m-501

That's a 29m-501 spool with your ss pinion.

I was not ready to assemble this reel, but Alan gave me a call today and asked to check Tom's new plates with his custom parts, so here is my two cents worth.
Someone mentioned that one of the spring post is too tall, he is correct, but still not tall enough to be causing any issues with the gear or the under the gear washer, if a wider washer is used, I could see that happening.
Here is what I use:

First off, I'm not a fan of the geas sleeve with the flats going all the way down to the ratchet, but I'll use it here for testing purposes
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_171005.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_171005.jpg.html)
my washer is a delrin, .60mm in thickness and 20.50mm in width
All is good there, no rubbing anywhere, I even tested while cranked all the way.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_171335.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_171335.jpg.html)

Someone else mentioned that Alan's pinion didn't fit the Penn spool shaft.
Here it is fully engaged on a Penn red spool
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_172217.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_172217.jpg.html)
On a Penn black spool
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_172253.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_172253.jpg.html)
On a Newell spool...still no issue
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_172356.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_172356.jpg.html)
and on a custom spool
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_172424.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_172424.jpg.html)
The pinion worked on all shown above

Here is the reel fully assembled
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_175943.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_175943.jpg.html)
one of the dog if not going back as far as it should, this is creating a tiny stiffness wnemn turnoing the handle, it doesn't bother me and I'm sure it will loosen up with usage.
Tom, your parts are machined as a good Swiss Watch, great job!
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_180125.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_180125.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_180134.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_180134.jpg.html)
spool nice and centered all parts nice and square
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20151229_180148.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20151229_180148.jpg.html)
The reel works just fine, the clicker is a little stiff, but as I kept turning  the handle is got a little looser.
As Alan mentioned above, these custom parts are made by a few guys, there will always be a minor fine tuning.
I installed the thicker spacer sleeve and the pressure on the dog mentioned above was more noticeable, but still functional.
Tolerance is very tight, place the screws in the spring prior to assembling the yoke, when assembling the other two bridge screws, make sure the lever goes into gear position.
I did not do any fine tuning to this one, I grabbed the parts and put them together.
For what its worth, I hope this is of some help.

Sal

Thanks for your checking, Sal. It is all good. The member is sending back those parts for full refund anyway.

Well said Sal.

This is alllll custom stuff..some fitting is to be expected.. Nice reel Sal. These are really nice side plates. Tom you do great work!!!

Quote from: Black Pearl on December 30, 2015, 12:15:27 AM
Thanks for your checking, Sal. It is all good. The member is sending back those parts for full refund anyway.

No refund for me! I have found your production tolerances solid.

ie. Your parts are great.

When fitting a multitude of manufactured parts its not too much to need a file, emery cloth, and patience... like hot rodding a car.

It's fun.

I had zero problems with my build.  There are more custom parts than OEM parts on my reel and I could not be happier!

Parts on my reel above are from Tom, Alan C. and Adam. I forgot to mention Randy (Vintage Offshore Tackle), I asked if he had a silver frame, when he got back to me he said he had a nice new one.
I told him to hold it and I would send a check in a couple of days, he answered that the frame was on its way ;D...great guy to deal with. 

Sal

Oh and thanks for bringing up about the clicker being stiff.

Thanks, Tom --

Got 4 to build when time allows.

Thought to keep it basic and simple --

(4) Silver P20s from Randy at Vintage Offshore.

(4) Black 3/0 size handles from the Boss.

(4) Black spools.

Best,

Fred

(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/7E3FDD6A-1D55-470F-A3AE-C118111CC497_zpsecsuqoeq.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/7E3FDD6A-1D55-470F-A3AE-C118111CC497_zpsecsuqoeq.jpg.html)

(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/24BFE19C-E455-458C-AE27-C6875B2F73F4_zpsqubvthn9.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/24BFE19C-E455-458C-AE27-C6875B2F73F4_zpsqubvthn9.jpg.html)

Wow Fred!
You went all in on those plates. :o

Fred, you must feel like a kid in a candy store, don't ask how I know ;D.

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 28, 2015, 04:36:04 AM
Ok, so here's what I came up with.
The Tiburon spool is just different enough that it causes problems.
I Used a Newell 99, a Penn 99, and a Tib 99. The Newell and Penn went together fine. The tib just barely centers and spins in the bearings.
Here's the issue:
This is a typical Penn or Newell spool shaft, clicker side. You see the transition from the 1/8" diameter to the peened surface of the clicker ratchet? Well that measures about .035"

(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/IMG_0473_zpsnu4epf4o.jpg)

Now here is the Tiburon:
They went with a straight shaft all the way to the ratchet and then welded it. That extra length won't allow Mikes spool to center and ride on the bearings correctly. Installing the removable stud is not going to solve the issue. Give me a couple of days to come up with a solution.

Thank you everyone for keeping things civil and positive.

(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/IMG_0474_zpspzz4nggu.jpg)

Simple fix!
(http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/ag109/Cortez_Conversions/Cortez%20Jigmaster/IMG_0480%202_zpsxkqgszns.jpg)

As I mentioned earlier, the Tib spools have the clicker wheel welded to the shaft. This makes the 1/8" diameter portion of the shaft about 1/32" longer than the others and it allows the bearing cup to contact the clicker wheel. Just a couple of stainless flat washers restore the offset from the clicker wheel.

Anyone who is needs these washers, PM me with you name and address and I will get them out to you free of charge.
The problem is the same for Knurled or standard bearing cups.
Thanks everyone for your patience!
Tom

   ......Tom, can't say thank you enough !!  :D    I will have open seat for you this summer for live bait albacore if you really want to see what your reels can do. :o :o

Nice fix!

(http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/doen1/20151231_121830_zps4mfurqxg.jpeg) (http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/doen1/media/20151231_121830_zps4mfurqxg.jpeg.html)

Ted and Twotone, those two reels are gorgeous...love it!

Sal

Holy cow sexyness! Ted the green is crazy!  Like a mini Hulk!

Lookin' good, Joe. I think I'll get me that same handle and star for mine.

Here is a silver one I just got done assembling
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_195053.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_195053.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_195030.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_195030.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_195019.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_195019.jpg.html)

A couple of helpful hints for the new crowd:
I want to mention that by removing a tiny bit off the right side dog, as I'm showing, will make the reel work much smoother
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_105626.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_105626.jpg.html)
It will still work as is, but since it only takes a minute to do, i would sand it.
Here is the close up
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_111407.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_111407.jpg.html)
When assembling the clutch, make sure the yoke is the right side up, as I'm showing here
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_111131.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_111131.jpg.html)
This would be the wrong side, as you can see, the edges are not rounded
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_111120.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_111120.jpg.html)
This reel is working flawlessly, I went with the 5:1 gears and Bryan's kit.
I did add a delrin belleville on top of the stack
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_142725.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_142725.jpg.html)
If you would like to do something similar, you will need the 10.50mm spacer sleeve to make it work
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_114541.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_114541.jpg.html)
The one on the right is the 10.50mm, you will also need to sand it down a bit, so it could slide in the opening
Bridge screws are available, but you will need to remove the threads on the lower two
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160103_111042.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160103_111042.jpg.html)
I recommend these.
Any questions, just ask!

Sal

No tutorial Joe, just a couple of hints, but not for you, you already know how to handle it.
I figure I place those here, I believe this is a good spot for it.
I made this a sticky early this morning, we don't want it to get lost.
Too much good stuff going on here.

Sal

Ok sweet!  I love the bridge screws, do you sell them?  The delrin belleville is sourced from whom?  Also, great photo's but I am having trouble seeing the actual change on the right dog.  Great looking setup!  Thanks for the help!

Thank you Joe.

Killer, I do not have a pic of the two dogs, I had it, but got lost in the shuffle.
These are some detailed pics, very easy to copy if you wanted to grind one of the dogs on your reel.
I do not sell the bridge screws, those took me 20 minutes each to make...too long.
Here are the bridge screws, only available with full threads
http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196A138
This 5/8 size is a bit long on Tom's plates, you wouldn't want any screws protruding through the bridge plate, they would hit the inner side of the spool, tolerance is very tight on these reels.
I did not try these yet, but i believe they would be perfect
http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196A137
The belleville is a great improvement on these, if used with the correct spacer.
I also get those from McMaster...very reasonable in cost:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#3573A17
The delrin for under the main gear you could get from smoothdrag.com , Adam ( Three se7ens)  might have some, but I'm not sure.

Sal

excellent!  Thank you Sal!

I completed my two yesterday.  They both have Penn steel gears (I prefer the 4:1 ratio), SS gear sleeves, Black Pearl double dog bridge/yoke/jack, & Bryan Young's 5+1 drag kits.  The black 500 has a SS spool and an aftermarket (Ebay) handle/knob.  The green & silver 501 has a Motive Fabrication handle arm & drag star, and an EVA knob that I got from someone on another forum.

Here are a couple pics:
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%205_zpsk9nzhe2h.jpg)

(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%204_zps5zkstrws.jpg)

(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%203_zpsja6gd2j4.jpg)

I learned a couple things in the process too.

First - eccentric springs are not all created equal.  In the photo below, you can see the upper spring is considerably shorter overall than the lower one, and the angle of the left end is a little different.  That was the first one that I installed in the green sideplate.  Because of its dimensions, it did not engage very deeply in the recess in the sideplate.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%207_zps63j8vpgi.jpg)

I thought at the time, "I wonder if that will pop out".  Sure enough, it did after a couple dozen cycles with the fully assembled reel.  This is what it looked like when I opened it:
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%206_zpsyaacmvpa.jpg)

I replaced that spring with the lower (longer) one, and it engages much better in the sideplate recess.  I am sure I could have bent the original into a better shape that would stay engaged if I did not have a replacement handy.

The other thing I learned has to do with Sal's post about sanding down the right dog.  On my black reel, there was some resistance when reeling that occurred each time the dog reached the top of the rachet.  I removed one dog at a time and checked, and it was the same one that Sal indicated.  So I sanded it as he showed, but the resistance was still there.  I then started to think that the interference occurred on a slightly different part of the dog, so I sanded again, and this took care of it.  I did not take a picture after the final sanding because the reel was already together and I didn't care to disassemble it again at 11:00 pm last night.  The red line in the photo below shows where I removed material in the final sanding.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%209%20-%20marked%20up_zps6rshtcdr.jpg?t=1451925181)

Tom, I believe you made a boo-boo on these plates, these are better than some of the new stuff out there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxkQKr1CDgA&feature=youtu.be
plate, spool and frame are playing together nicely, this is as close you're going to get to perfection.

Sal

Sorry, no idea why it keeps going sideway.

A shot of the two, red 501 & black 99
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160106_171256.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20160106_171256.jpg.html)

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 06, 2016, 11:00:13 PM
Tom, I believe you made a boo-boo on these plates, these are better than some of the new stuff out there.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/th_20160106_171305.mp4) (http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160106_171305.mp4)
plate, spool and frame are playing together nicely, this is as close you're going to get to perfection.

Sal

Sorry, no idea why it keeps going sideway.

Nice spin Sal... I think mine is similar but I will post to confirm.

Bottom line... I agree these plates are just too nice...

Steve

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_10_53_20_305901086.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30591)

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_10_53_05_30589134.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30590)

This is my dog after stoning. It only took about ten strokes right on the corner where the shadow is pointing. A wise gunsmith once told me to go easy because you can always take more metal off but it's awfully hard to put it back on. You can see by the residue on the stone that I didn't remove much and the reel functions very smoothly now.

Trying to understand why removing so little has any effect - was it not planar and contacting the bridge plate and binding before grinding? I don't yet have my SS Pro Challenger internals....

Sid
SE FL

Sid,
The dog was slightly contacting the vertical edge the recess. The tolerances are very tight on both the plate and the bridge so removing just a couple of thousandths in just the right place goes a long way to smoothing things up. Just take a little off the corner of the dog.

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 06, 2016, 11:00:13 PM
Tom, I believe you made a boo-boo on these plates, these are better than some of the new stuff out there.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/th_20160106_171305.mp4) (http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160106_171305.mp4)
plate, spool and frame are playing together nicely, this is as close you're going to get to perfection.

Sal

Sorry, no idea why it keeps going sideway.

I couldnt see the video, but when I gave mine a test spin, I got tired of waiting on it to stop, so I put it back on the shelf and walked away. It just kept going and going...

Tom, these are exceptional, as always.  And I can fully appreciate what it actually takes to get tolerances and fits like that. 

Quote from: BryanC on January 05, 2016, 04:24:20 PM
I completed my two yesterday.  They both have Penn steel gears (I prefer the 4:1 ratio), SS gear sleeves, Black Pearl double dog bridge/yoke/jack, & Bryan Young's 5+1 drag kits.  The black 500 has a SS spool and an aftermarket (Ebay) handle/knob.  The green & silver 501 has a Motive Fabrication handle arm & drag star, and an EVA knob that I got from someone on another forum.

Here are a couple pics:
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%205_zpsk9nzhe2h.jpg)

(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%204_zps5zkstrws.jpg)

(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%203_zpsja6gd2j4.jpg)

Those look nice Bryan, the handle on the left does look better though, maybe because it's named after one of the members here ;D ...enjoy them.
Sal

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 07, 2016, 11:20:01 AM
Those look nice Bryan, the handle on the left does look better though, maybe because it's named after one of the members here ;D ...enjoy them.
Sal

I agree.  "Sal's Handle" is very nice.  Here is a photo that shows it better:
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/bcraighrst/photo%201_zpsbtrq68kk.jpg)

Quote from: Reel 224 on January 07, 2016, 02:12:38 PM
I'm not if it matters but I have my curved star the opposite direction as your green 501 reel Bryan.


Joe

I don't know if there is a right or wrong way with these ones.  Seems like it is just a matter of personal preference.

Sal's handles are awesome, I purchased some last month from Motive Fab and couldn't be any more pleased..

Quote from: BryanC on January 07, 2016, 03:06:58 PM

Quote from: Reel 224 on January 07, 2016, 02:12:38 PM
I'm not if it matters but I have my curved star the opposite direction as your green 501 reel Bryan.


Joe

I don't know if there is a right or wrong way with these ones.  Seems like it is just a matter of personal preference.

I think it looks better when the curve of the star flows the same direction as the curve of the handle arm. Forward flow just looks more artistic.

Quote from: PacRat on January 07, 2016, 01:36:49 AM
Sid,
The dog was slightly contacting the vertical edge the recess. The tolerances are very tight on both the plate and the bridge so removing just a couple of thousandths in just the right place goes a long way to smoothing things up. Just take a little off the corner of the dog.

Thanks PacRat. I don't have one here to look at (yet).

Sid
SE FL

Okay, I figured out some of the tolerance issues. Today I took a PC double dog bridge from a 500 with plastic sideplates and tried it in one of Tom's new sideplates. I gave the sleeve a spin with no gears installed and there was a very minimal bind, much less than my previous build. The only variable was the gear sleeve. Today I was using a 1st Gen coarse thread sleeve and the dog contact was almost undetectable. The previous build used a 2nd Gen fine thread sleeve, this one bound up enough that I felt it needed attention before proceeding.  I did a side by side comparison and sure enough the 2nd Gen sleeve is slightly larger across the ratchet teeth...enough to cause binding. I still dressed up the dog for the 1st Gen sleeve and it became very smooth. I marked the dog with ink before stoning so that you can see exactly where I removed metal. It doesn't take much to make a big difference in smoothness at the crank.

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_10_59_38_30592687.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30593)

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_10_59_09_305912311.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30592)

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_11_00_23_305931079.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30594)

Thanks PacRat...great info!

PacRat, sorry I don't know your actual name ::) ;D
Thanks for checking those for us, most don't realize how much work goes into it at times, so we can make it easier for others.

Sal

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 08, 2016, 12:15:33 AM
PacRat, sorry I don't know your actual name ::) ;D

..
Sal

BTW Sal... his actual name is 'Mike'  ;)

I've been pretty lazy about contributing up until now.. I started to feel guilty about how much the rest of you contribute. I've learned a lot from you guys. I also learned to appreciate that it does take extra time and effort to document this stuff and for that I'd like to thank all of you. I'll try to step up and start pulling my weight around here.
-Mike

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 08, 2016, 12:15:33 AM
PacRat, sorry I don't know your actual name ::) ;D
Thanks for checking those for us, most don't realize how much work goes into it at times, so we can make it easier for others.

Sal

Sal,
If you ever saw my workspace you would know why I chose the handle 'PacRat'...well that and being from the Pacific coast.
-Mike

Quote from: PacRat on January 08, 2016, 12:39:40 AM

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 08, 2016, 12:15:33 AM
PacRat, sorry I don't know your actual name ::) ;D
Thanks for checking those for us, most don't realize how much work goes into it at times, so we can make it easier for others.

Sal

Sal,
If you ever saw my workspace you would know why I chose the handle 'PacRat'...well that and being from the Pacific coast.
-Mike

;D
I might have you beat, I have (3) workbench at three different locations and just set up a folding table to work on some reels because I didn't have space available . ;D

I finshed up my reel. Thanks to Tom for the plates and Alan for the gears and double dog brake plate. I have a world class reel. This is a tight reel and will take time to break in. After getting everthing set and tested it is very very smooth.

 It doesn't get any better than that Mike. Form and function all rolled up in one. If it were any sexier it may make your wife jealous  :o :o


Is that red star aluminum ??

Very nice looking reel.

My wife is Filipino as long as bring home the fish with the head shes happy. She never says anything about me building a new reel or rod. I keep her loaded up with homemade Longanisa and Tocino to give to her friends and family.

Tom, I just got my hands on Dominick's green sideplates...man, you out did yourself.  The are nothing but perfection.

Great job, Mike! Ted's right, she's down right sexy!
Is that an old accurate ball grip and is that an Adam handle?
Sounds like you're wife is one of the special ones👍
Thanks
Dom

Yes it's Adams but cleaned up and buffed out. I still have a little more buffing to make it glidder.

Yup!...gorgeous reel Mike.


Sal

I do have one question how does Toms plates hold up to laser engraving. That would put the final spin on this build.

Mike

Tom's plates are definitely amazing and the features he added improve on what were already the best upgrades for our jigmasters. Couldn't help myself and scooped up 1 red and 1 green set. Just put my red set together with a tiburon yellowfin kit to get some inspiration on what handle/knob combo I'd like to go with. For sure one of Adam's stainless drag stars, but as for the power handle and knob I'm still deciding. Thank you Tom for making these available to us!

(http://i.imgur.com/00BKPFKl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/1D3zcZtl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/22i7XW8l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/Xthzznwl.jpg)
Shakas,
Kyle

Quote from: mikeysm on January 09, 2016, 02:46:01 AM
I do have one question how does Toms plates hold up to laser engraving. That would put the final spin on this build.

Mike

They will take  laser engraving just fine. That's how most manufacturers do it. Just don't go too deep. I will probably do the 4/0 plates like this, or leave blank depending on cost.

Thanks I will take my side plates to a friend who has a shop that laser engraves. I just need a design.

Mike

I finally got around to putting a set of these plates on a Jigmaster.
Fit and finish is superb Tom. I experimented a little with different sleeves and such.
Kudos to Sal and Mike for the dog tip. I only have to put this together once. ;)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3242_zpslln6od2r.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3242_zpslln6od2r.jpg.html)
The handle might be a little overkill, but that's how I do it. ;)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3243_zps9frnuya2.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3243_zps9frnuya2.jpg.html)
All I need to do is sand down the spacer, but my garage door is frozen shut.
It dropped in the teens here tonight, with single digits on the way.
Ice Blue Wide Jigmaster, Cobalt Blue 113HLW.
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3246_zps3zsqbzxh.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3246_zps3zsqbzxh.jpg.html)

Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 11, 2016, 04:22:46 AM
I finally got around to putting a set of these plates on a Jigmaster.
Fit and finish is superb Tom. I experimented a little with different sleeves and such.
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3242_zpslln6od2r.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3242_zpslln6od2r.jpg.html)
The handle might be a little overkill, but that's how I do it. ;)
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3243_zps9frnuya2.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3243_zps9frnuya2.jpg.html)
All I need to do is sand down the spacer, but my garage door is frozen shut.
It dropped in the teens here tonight, with single digits on the way.
Ice Blue Wide Jigmaster, Cobalt Blue 113HLW.
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3246_zps3zsqbzxh.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3246_zps3zsqbzxh.jpg.html)

Beautiful extended jig! I'm waiting on some parts to get my red one together. You got the better newell spool though, atm i can't bear to pull the one i have out of a black accuplate YFS that is already done. How does she cast?

Nice color on the Jiggy!

Wow !! I don't know how I missed this thread, Are those aluminum plates still available and if they are where can I order it ? And can someone please tell me what the price is involved with shipping fees to South Africa.
If possible I would prefer black my Jigmaster I want to modify like that is black and do I need to do any modifications on the parts or will they all fit ??
Thanks
Regards
Henry

I finally got around to building my Jigmaster with the CC green plates and red spool.  I will start another thread with photos.  I was going to make it a shelfie but decided to fish it but I have a couple of questions.  As you know the plates came with both bearings and bushings. 
One: Which would you use with a SS sleeve bearings or bushings to get the highest amount of drag? 
Two: Has anyone tested the drag and what is the highest amount of drag one may expect out of this conversion? 
Three:  Any other advice I did not double dog it? (I used the guts from a Jigmaster 500)
Dominick

Quote from: Dominick on January 20, 2016, 08:34:33 PM
I finally got around to building my Jigmaster with the CC green plates and red spool.  I will start another thread with photos.  I was going to make it a shelfie but decided to fish it but I have a couple of questions.  As you know the plates came with both bearings and bushings.  
One: Which would you use with a SS sleeve bearings or bushings to get the highest amount of drag?  
Two: Has anyone tested the drag and what is the highest amount of drag one may expect out of this conversion?  
Three:  Any other advice I did not double dog it? (I used the guts from a Jigmaster 500)
Dominick

  My advice is send it to Sal. He will tank it and test the drag poundage with a wagon full of bricks in his driveway  :D :D


    Not sure bushings or bearings make any difference on drag poundage. My assumption is the casting capabilities would be different. Also the bushings may fair better for extended use in harsh environments.

Quote from: Dominick on January 20, 2016, 08:34:33 PM
I finally got around to building my Jigmaster with the CC green plates and red spool.  I will start another thread with photos.  I was going to make it a shelfie but decided to fish it but I have a couple of questions.  As you know the plates came with both bearings and bushings. 
One: Which would you use with a SS sleeve bearings or bushings to get the highest amount of drag? 
Two: Has anyone tested the drag and what is the highest amount of drag one may expect out of this conversion? 
Three:  Any other advice I did not double dog it? (I used the guts from a Jigmaster 500)
Dominick

Pictures my man pictures, where'd you hide the thread?

Here's mine!

She's a beauty Clark.

Quote from: David Hall on January 22, 2016, 02:00:53 AM
Pictures my man pictures, where'd you hide the thread?

I haven't started the thread.  I just received the SS sleeve so I will have to take it apart again and that's when I'll memorialize it in photographs.  Nice greenie there Redfish. Someone captured the name the Green Hornet on the site for his greenie.  I am calling mine the Green Hulk.  Dominick

Sweet reel.

  The narrow green is my favorite. :o :o

Sure is a Beauty Clark. ;D
Custom Plates and star. I think a green knob power handle will put it over the top! ;D

Quote from: Max Doubt on January 22, 2016, 04:49:28 AM
Sweet reel.

  The narrow green is my favorite. :o :o

Mine too :)

Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 22, 2016, 04:56:37 AM
Sure is a Beauty Clark. ;D
Custom Plates and star. I think a green knob power handle will put it over the top! ;D

 You're right Daron, but those green handles can no longer be found. Maybe someday they'll make a comeback, cause the early accurate matching handles were sweet....How much would a guy pay nowadays for a handle like that ?

Maybe one of the old green swirl penn power handles.
Old school meets new. I like that expression, because I do it weekly. ;D

Quote from: Max Doubt on January 22, 2016, 06:14:11 AM

Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 22, 2016, 04:56:37 AM
Sure is a Beauty Clark. ;D
Custom Plates and star. I think a green knob power handle will put it over the top! ;D

 You're right Daron, but those green handles can no longer be found. Maybe someday they'll make a comeback, cause the early accurate matching handles were sweet....How much would a guy pay nowadays for a handle like that ?

You are killing me!!!! I love this handle😍😍😍😍

Got the Red plates put together with a tiburon yellowfin kit, power handle, stainless internals and a steel 4:1 gear. Took her out fishing for the first time, casts pretty well but needs a bit of tuning to get it out to the horizon. She's pretty though, thanks Tom for making these available to us!

(http://i.imgur.com/msMvR3ll.jpg)

Yup!...beautiful reel.
Did you use the ss bridge? also, did you fine tune one of the dogs?
Very nice.

Sal

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 23, 2016, 10:16:56 PM
Yup!...beautiful reel.
Did you use the ss bridge? also, did you fine tune one of the dogs?
Very nice.

Sal

Thanks guys, yep she's a good looking reel. Sal, i think I did, it operates smooth but i have to check if i did it properly. I was a few beers in by the time i had put it back together.

Okay, here's mine. I was holding out until I was 100% but 95% will have to do for now. It's fully loaded except for Bryan's 5 stack which isn't installed yet. I wasn't even going to purchase black plates until I got a look at them then couldn't resist, thank you Tom. Also Al 'DaBigOno' with his black 500 Magnum which really inspired the aesthetics for this. Thank you Randy for the Newell spool which I really wanted to go into this one. Pro-Challenger bridge and gears and Alan Tani's 2nd Generation gear sleeve. Last but not least...thanks to all the members here for inspiring and fueling the addiction. Building reels is the next best thing to fishing.
-Mike  

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_11_09_54_30594622.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30595)

(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/medium_14769_17_11_19_11_10_50_305962384.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=30597)

Quote from: PacRat on January 26, 2016, 06:36:15 PM
Okay, here's mine. I was holding out until I was 100% but 95% will have to do for now. It's fully loaded except for Bryan's 5 stack which isn't installed yet. I wasn't even going to purchase black plates until I got a look at them then couldn't resist, thank you Tom. Also Al 'DaBigOno' with his black 500 Magnum which really inspired the aesthetics for this. Thank you Randy for the Newell spool which I really wanted to go into this one. Pro-Challenger bridge and gears and Alan Tani's 2nd Generation gear sleeve. Last but not least...thanks to all the members here for inspiring and fueling the addiction. Building reels is the next best thing to fishing.
-Mike 

(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/fishing%20reel/CC501/20160125_135426_zpswjqoxa4e.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/fishing%20reel/CC501/20160125_135426_zpswjqoxa4e.jpg.html)

(http://i1376.photobucket.com/albums/ah30/mwhelm/fishing%20reel/CC501/20160125_135242_zpsao7agjms.jpg) (http://s1376.photobucket.com/user/mwhelm/media/fishing%20reel/CC501/20160125_135242_zpsao7agjms.jpg.html)

Where did you find the handle and knob? Really good looking reel!

I'd also like to add that I really appreciate the tight tolerances. Thank you Tom and Alan. I always prefer to file, sand and fit parts until they feel just right rather than throwing a bunch of parts together with a sloppy fit (except for Kalashnikovs)! These are some really beautiful heirloom reels which our grandchildren will be proud to own one day.

Thanks Andy. The handle is an Accurate that I modified with a knob that I picked up on eBay.

 Almost too nice to fish Mike, and you're right about that all black. It is stunning.

 The handle arm looks like old style accurate and the black knob on that handle arm makes it very unique combo. Time for a neoprene reel cover to keep war wounds to a minimum. I kept wondering if you'd ever post up your black cortez jiggy, and all I gotta say is it was well worth the wait. Well done Mike  8)

  Ted

Thanks Ted. This black one was an afterthought. I originally purchased silver plates to build a 99 but when I saw the black I had to get a second set. I'm still working on it but it's close enough to post.

What kind of free-spool are you guys getting? With just the frame and spool this thing really free-spooled for a long time. I didn't even bother to time it, just gave it a spin and it went on and on like the Energizer Bunny. After I installed the bridge and gears the free-spool was cut dramatically. I'm assuming this is due to spool-shaft to pinion contact/friction. I always clean and polish my pinion and spool-shaft. I'm going to tear this one down once more for the drag, final lube and one last look before putting line on. I'll also give it a spin without the bridge again.

Any suggestions?

-Mike

Free Spool = plenty.  Im looking at slowing it down...

 Good question Mike. I'm sure Sal can answer that one for you Mike, and I'll be interested in his answer.


 I just wanted to add, I recently bought neoprene covers for my cortez reels and the one that fits perfectly on the 501 cortez jigmaster is a "jaws" size MN. ...Well worth having IMO.

The free-spool has me stumped for now. It sounds and feels very smooth but it feels like it has a wad of grease in it. I always run a Q-tip through my pinion and wipe the spool shaft during assembly but it feels like it's greased. I may also loosen the side-plates and give it a twist...that always helped with my old Newelled Penns.

I see where a few guys needed shims for their newell spool shafts, and Tom has those shims if that's the case.. Not sure if that's needed here, but just mentioning it.

I thought the shims were only required for the Tiburon spools. I still love my reel though. I'll get to the bottom of it as I know it had great free-spool without the guts. I like to isolate component groups when I diagnose. Also the spool will spin better with the line on it.

Quote from: PacRat on January 26, 2016, 09:34:12 PM
I thought the shims were only required for the Tiburon spools. I still love my reel though. I'll get to the bottom of it as I know it had great free-spool without the guts. I like to isolate component groups when I diagnose. Also the spool will spin better with the line on it.

Shims are required with any spool that need them, tolerance changes with Penn spools as well not just Newell and Accurate or Tiburon. I was testing one of these today, the pinion was loose on the Penn brass spool, but tight on the aluminum.
I'm thinking your problem is with the Newell spool shaft, I have a few that did the same. I bet if you remove the spool from the reel, the bearing will remain attached to it, a clear indication that the spool shaft is larger.
I will usually chuck up the spool to my drill press and let it spin on some wet/dry 1200 sandpaper, or extra fine steel wool. This has been working for me, but you are taking a chance with the spool. You need to make sure you don't apply too much pressure while its spinning.
There might be an easier way, I do it this way simply because it has been working for me.

Sal

That is a beauty Mike.
I haven't been a fan of the black in the past, but its growing on me. ;)
When I posted the pic of mine, I had my tanks out with it.
I notice tank #2 was grinding when you shifted. The pinion gear was hanging up on the spool shaft.
A little emery cloth and it is shifting great now.

Lots of good advise here, also make sure you don't have a spot of grease contacting the spool or between the pinion and spool.

Thanks for all the good advice. Here's what I found when I went through it today: No gobs of grease on the shaft, pinion or spool flange. Free-spool with the pinion gear installed=5 seconds. Free-spool without the pinion gear=75 seconds. Seems that the pinion is the smoking gun. So I measured the Newell shaft and compared it to a Penn shaft and the Newell shaft was slightly smaller diameter than the Penn shaft so I didn't mess with it. The PC pinion felt a little tighter than the Penn so I reamed it out slightly to 0.171" which is very close to my other PC and Penn pinions. I cleaned up the pinion and re-assembled and I'm still at 5 seconds of free-spool. I'm using a brand new PC stainless yoke and it is right side up. Have any of you guys ever had to tweak or tune a yoke? Also will grease on the yoke at the pinion groove affect free-spool? I've always greased there because of the wear we use to get with the old brass yokes.
-Mike

Check to make sure the eccentric jack is sitting flush when you pin it all together.  The guide pin needs to ride right in the slot.  I know basic stuff here, but I had it sitting a little out of the slot and it was causing some binding at the pinion I believe.  Not an expert by any means but it helped me!

I did not have to tweak the yoke, just make sure its put on with the rounded edges facing you.  I have not used the PC pinion of gears yet, sorry.

The pinion doesn't turn when in freespool. The spool shaft spins inside the pinion, so a wad of grease on your yoke shouldn't matter.

Is it possible there is an angle to your pinion from the way the yoke is sitting that could be causing some friction? Maybe try backing the upper bridge screws out a hair and check free spool again.

Also, the green goblin I posted earlier in this thread owes credit to our dear friend Randy! The old green tiburon frame is a tough find and Randy was a pleasure as always to work with! I should also add the newell styled drag star from Adam of Motive Fabrication is also awesome! Thanks guys for making great products and most of all thanks TOM for making these plates!

That's what I'm suspecting...a tilted pinion. I did swap yokes and free-spool improved to 15 seconds from 5 but it's still low compared to 75 without the pinion. I'm not totally fixated on free-spool but it's a good indication that something is still a little off. Would changing the jack springs springs help in any way?

Check the grove on the pinion where it rides on the yoke, at times they're no cleaned as they should be. Turn the pinion on the yoke by hand and see how it feels compared to the stock pinion.
If it feels a little rough, hit it with a file and keep testing until in feels smooth.
This could be done by hand, but I have a tapered piece of wood that I jam in the pinion, I chuck it up on my drill press and hold a file to it. A dremel will also work.
As Ted mentioned, during freespool, the spool shaft spins in the pinion. Make sure the inner side of the pinion is cleaned nicely. You could use a small bit wrapped with extra fine steel wool, one of Fred's brilliant idea. The spool shaft needs to be very smooth and clean as well. By the way, is your spool centered?

Sal

Thanks Sal, I'm going to take a closer look at the pinion tomorrow. Today I measured it and it seemed tighter than my other pinions so I drilled it out to 11/64 or 0.172. Only a few shavings came out but it fit more like my Penn pinions and it looked real clean inside. I polished it anyway. Tonight I read an old thread where you put 505 gears in a 500 and you drilled the pinion out to 3/16". Do you think a PC pinion can go to 3/16" or will it become weak and/or sloppy? I'll also have a look at the groove.

Maybe I'm being too fussy but all these new components are just too beautiful to not give them all the attention they deserve. Overall, I'm very happy with the quality of all the parts and the finished reel is a fish killing machine. I know it's not even broken in yet and I can feel it improving every time I mess with it. I'm going to take one last look under the hood then put line on it and break it in a bit before messing with it much more. I'll likely be slinging jigs with this anyway and free-spool won't be too important. I've got Newells for flylining bait anyway.

Thank you everyone for all the help.
-Mike

Mike, being fussy is a good thing. I'm very fussy at my job, maybe too fussy.  I can't get anyone to work with me, most that try don't last very long ;D.
Yes, you could drill the pinion, but there isn't a need to do so. Alan C. will have anything we would ever need for these reels, we just need a little patience.
All the parts he mentioned yesterday, I already have. I've been testing those for some time now.
Being as fussy as you are, you will really enjoy the latest gears when they come available. Those feel very smooth, the stainless steel pinion and main are both heat treated...not bad.
He might be knocking himself out of business though, those should last a long while ;D

Sal

Any word on when another round of Jigmaster side plates will be available from Cortez Conversions?  His inventory list shows all sold out, not surprised... As nice as they are I am sure more and more people would buy them...

Sal, I just received an order of gears this week and I believe they're heat treated as the pinion has a bit of a brown color. I noticed this yesterday when I was comparing pinions. The pinion that I've been working with was received a couple of weeks ago and is a brighter silver color.

Joe, I do a bit of gunsmithing too...probably why I'm so anal about perfection. Of course the stakes aren't as high but guns and reels do go well together and all the gunsmithing tools and knowlege really help when working on reels.

-Mike

Mike, the gears that I've mentioned are not in production yet, but will be soon. I think i'm the only one with those, but I might be wrong. :-\

Sal

Quote from: steelhead_killer on January 28, 2016, 04:01:08 PM
Any word on when another round of Jigmaster side plates will be available from Cortez Conversions?  His inventory list shows all sold out, not surprised... As nice as they are I am sure more and more people would buy them...

I'm in for four - six sets right now.

Quote from: PacRat on January 28, 2016, 02:41:43 AM
That's what I'm suspecting...a tilted pinion. I did swap yokes and free-spool improved to 15 seconds from 5 but it's still low compared to 75 without the pinion. I'm not totally fixated on free-spool but it's a good indication that something is still a little off. Would changing the jack springs springs help in any way?

Mike, what happens when its in freespool and you crank the handle ? This test will tell you how much friction is on the spool shaft inside of your pinion. If it is abnormal you will know right away that the pinion is the issue.

Also, may want to check to see if there is any spool wobble with respect to the inner rings.  If so, the stand may be slightly bent, causing misalignment of the pinion and spool.

Ted, When in freespool this thing is as smooth as silk. If you turn the crank the spool will turn but only due to pinion/shaft friction and it will stop turning with the slightest thumb contact, then you only hear the dogs ticking away. The gear mesh sounds and feels very smooth.

John, There's no wobble or movement of the spool in relation to the frame (Tib P21)...just a few thousandths side-to-side as adjusted. This has a Newell spool and there's no contact on the spool flanges or fins. This is the smoothest Jigmaster I've ever handled. Very tight tolerances but no binding or strange sounds, ticks, etc.

This reel is a testament to the talents, skills and knowledge of the combined body of this board...especially the machinists who make parts for us and those who figure out how to make all these parts play well together.

I've learned a lot on this project (labor of love) and I've come to some conclusions that I did an extensive write-up this morning but photobucket was down for maintenance and I lost the whole thing when I tried to attach photos...I'm still trying to cope with that. I really wanted to throttle the photobucket kitty today! I'll repost when photo bucket is working again.
-Mike

Am I correct in thinking a complete 99 special can be built without actually having a 99??

Frame
Spool
drag
SS Bridge
Gears,
Side plates
Handle
arm
Dual dog

then just buy a few misc. springs, screws etc.

Is this true??

I already have a Newell 332 but this REALLY looked sweet in black.

Quote from: garyal on February 02, 2016, 04:19:06 AM
Am I correct in thinking a complete 99 special can be built without actually having a 99??

Frame
Spool
drag
SS Bridge
Gears,
Side plates
Handle
arm
Dual dog

then just buy a few misc. springs, screws etc.

Is this true??

I already have a Newell 332 but this REALLY looked sweet in black.

Youre pretty close, and thats the route I went.  You will need the eccentric, eccentric lever, spring, and jack plate along with your list though. 

I also don't see an SS yoke.
Ron

Quote from: PacRat on January 29, 2016, 08:00:21 PM
Ted, When in freespool this thing is as smooth as silk. If you turn the crank the spool will turn but only due to pinion/shaft friction and it will stop turning with the slightest thumb contact, then you only hear the dogs ticking away. The gear mesh sounds and feels very smooth.

John, There's no wobble or movement of the spool in relation to the frame (Tib P21)...just a few thousandths side-to-side as adjusted. This has a Newell spool and there's no contact on the spool flanges or fins. This is the smoothest Jigmaster I've ever handled. Very tight tolerances but no binding or strange sounds, ticks, etc.

This reel is a testament to the talents, skills and knowledge of the combined body of this board...especially the machinists who make parts for us and those who figure out how to make all these parts play well together.

Don't forget us on the pictorial....

I've learned a lot on this project (labor of love) and I've come to some conclusions that I did an extensive write-up this morning but photobucket was down for maintenance and I lost the whole thing when I tried to attach photos...I'm still trying to cope with that. I really wanted to throttle the photobucket kitty today! I'll repost when photo bucket is working again.
-Mike

I finally got around to putting some line on  my Cortez 501 and all I can say is 'WOW"...this thing casts as good as it looks! I spooled it with some generic 30# mono that came on a Senator. This isn't the line I'll fish it with but good enough for some dry-land trials. Right now I'm just tossing it around the back yard so I'm using a lot of thumb. I can't wait to see what it will do with some good line on it and open ocean out front.
-Mike

Your sideplates are great quality and craftsmanship. I bought 5 sets of the Jigmaster sideplates and I am using Tiburon spools. If you could please send me enough stainless steel washers for these 5 pairs of sideplates I would greatly appreciate it. I built the first one and had the issue of not being able to center the spool.

Thank you very much,
Paul Berinson

I dropped a bunch in the mail today for you Paul.
Thanks!
Tom

I have finally completed my Cortez Conversions Jigmaster build. I have the following people to thank; Randy at Vintage Offshore Tackle for the Tiburon frame (what a headache that was for him, but he persisted and came through), Tom for the sideplates (of course), Alan C. at Pro Challenger for the SS internals (5:1 main:pinion, eccentric jack, pinion yolk, bridge with double SS dogs) and 50mm EVA handle, Scotts for the SS gear sleeve (I believe an Alan Tani product?), Bryan Young for the 5+1 drag stack, and Adam at Motive Fabrication for the star and crank arm. She was a little rough at first, but sitting down during the debate the other night and cranking out my frustrations has smoothed her out quite a bit.

(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/sdlehr/Cortez%20Conversions%20Jigmaster/DSC_7775.NEF_zps4xqhhoew.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/sdlehr/media/Cortez%20Conversions%20Jigmaster/DSC_7775.NEF_zps4xqhhoew.jpg.html)

Quote from: sdlehr on February 06, 2016, 07:41:16 PM
I have finally completed my Cortez Conversions Jigmaster build. I have the following people to thank; Randy at Vintage Offshore Tackle for the Tiburon frame (what a headache that was for him, but he persisted and came through), Tom for the sideplates (of course), Alan C. at Pro Challenger for the SS internals (main/pinion, eccentric jack, pinion yolk, bridge) and 50mm EVA handle, Scotts for the SS gear sleeve (I believe an Alan Tani product?), Bryan Young for the 5+1 drag stack, and Adam at Motive Fabrication for the star and crank arm. She was a little rough at first, but sitting down during the debate the other night and cranking out my frustrations has smoothed her out quite a bit.

(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/sdlehr/Cortez%20Conversions%20Jigmaster/DSC_7775.NEF_zps4xqhhoew.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/sdlehr/media/Cortez%20Conversions%20Jigmaster/DSC_7775.NEF_zps4xqhhoew.jpg.html)

Fantastic!
That is something about all SS internals. Brass reels just need a few spins and they are wore in, acceptably smooth. When you start dealing with harder materials, you need to do some lapping and tuning to make it rite. That is where being a reel smith comes in. There are thousands (millions?) of Mauser 98s that have had a bunch of parts thrown on them and cost a few hundred bucks, there are far less 98s that have had a master put countless hours of his blood, sweat and love into to turn into masterpieces. CNC aside, when you are working with the highest level of equipment you have to develop a deep enough skill set at an elevated enough level to make something truly special. Someday, I hope to get there.

Really great reel. I can't wait to read about the first fish.

Ron

Very nice!  Good work!

That looks sweet Sid, enjoy it!

Sal

That is just awesome! I can't wait to get home and get my hands on these plates.
To everyone who has posted their builds, all things of beauty you have!
Thanks Tom for making these happen.

Thanks, guys. Sal, I'm sure you recognize the crank. It's a nice design.

Sid

Sal just finished up a couple of Jig masters for me so I thought I would share the pictures.

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/anglingarchitect/20160206_093840_zpsv0caqstg.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/anglingarchitect/media/20160206_093840_zpsv0caqstg.jpg.html)

Parts

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/anglingarchitect/20160206_150034_zpsdgvljulq.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/anglingarchitect/media/20160206_150034_zpsdgvljulq.jpg.html)

Completed Reels

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/anglingarchitect/20160206_174718_zpspslfixqg.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/anglingarchitect/media/20160206_174718_zpspslfixqg.jpg.html)

(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/anglingarchitect/20160206_174751_zpsdtuiwwfd.jpg) (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/anglingarchitect/media/20160206_174751_zpsdtuiwwfd.jpg.html)

They were assembled by Sal you know they can't be anything but perfect, I have a couple of J Variance 113h's that the boss did for me and they weren't the  same reels I sent him, and now they are my favorites.

Wow I just read through this whole thread again, stunning reels all around.
Looks like all the bugs are worked out before I even got started.  I thoroughly enjoyed reading all the posts and drooling over the pictures, I didn't get started collecting parts soon enough? hope there are more builds waiting out there to add to this thread.  I'd like to read the whole thing over several more times.

David, I recently scored a collection of parts on eBay for not too many dollars so I can easily afford to give some of them away. If you need some brass parts I probably have them. I've also got some posts and a stand. If you build a Cortez Conversions Jigmaster you'll need spool, posts/stand or frame, Eccentric, eccentric lever and eccentric spring, clutch springs. Also drag star and crank/handle. I think everything else is available SS. I think I have pinion yolk, eccentric and eccentric jack in brass also if you're interested. Let me know.

Sid

The trick with 'shaving the dog' really helped my Accurate Side plates as well, I feel like knowing that slight modification will save dozens of folks from the aggravation of putting a new project all back together, just to have a slight 'grind'.

Quote from: sdlehr on February 12, 2016, 03:41:20 PM
David, I recently scored a collection of parts on eBay for not too many dollars so I can easily afford to give some of them away. If you need some brass parts I probably have them. I've also got some posts and a stand. If you build a Cortez Conversions Jigmaster you'll need spool, posts/stand or frame, Eccentric, eccentric lever and eccentric spring, clutch springs. Also drag star and crank/handle. I think everything else is available SS. I think I have pinion yolk, eccentric and eccentric jack in brass also if you're interested. Let me know.

Sid

I have all internals, I'm looking for tiburon or accurate black 99 frame

Quote from: David Hall on February 12, 2016, 07:17:13 PM
I have all internals, I'm looking for tiburon or accurate black 99 frame

Afraid I can't help you with that....

Well, since I'm so in love with the earrings I had made from the New Zealand abalone shells Dwight sent me...

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/Earrings%202_zpsywcm6xrw.jpg)

... I figured, why not a matching reel, soooo... Voilà!

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/P1000778_zpsojbjmcvx.jpg)

As we ladies all know, there's nothing better than finding the perfect accessory, LOL   :)  ;)  :D  ;D

~A~

Quote from: Aiala on February 17, 2016, 08:16:56 PM
Well, since I'm so in love with the earrings I had made from the New Zealand abalone shells Dwight sent me...

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/Earrings%202_zpsywcm6xrw.jpg)

... I figured, why not a matching reel, soooo... Voilà!

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/P1000778_zpsojbjmcvx.jpg)

As we ladies all know, there's nothing better than finding the perfect accessory, LOL   :)  ;)  :D  ;D

~A~

Very nice reel!

I love that all the pieces are different colors....

Aiala,
   You're awesome! You'll be fishing in style this season. Post a photo when the earrings and reel make their debut.
I have to hide this thread from the misses. ;)
Dom

No that is accessorizing!

 :o Awesome looking reel you have yourself Aiala.

   Very pretty, it's matches the ear rings very well. You could rig with an assist hook and use the ear ring if you run out of bait.

Beautiful reel! Very original color scheme. What color line do you plan to use?
Mike

Thank you, gents! I am ridiculously pleased with myself.   ;D

Quote from: PacRat on February 18, 2016, 03:01:25 PM
Beautiful reel! Very original color scheme. What color line do you plan to use? Mike

Mike, is there any other color??   ;)  :D

(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah207/ladyaialaAiala/Pink_zpsjih3ban6.jpg)

~A~

Now you're going to need a very special rod or it will look like a dog with that beauty sitting on it. I think you nailed it with the line color.
Mike

Yeah that calls for Vadney with matching marbling. No question at all.   

J

I'm with you on that one John!!!!! That combo would be a knockout.
....................Lou

Well, I actually am getting a custom-built rod (my upcoming birthday present!) but it's for a different reel. For now, my Cortez beauty will ride on a cherry 7-foot Fenwick Pacificstik Supreme 670C 30-50lb:

(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDgwWDY0MA==/z/eF8AAOSwcwhVNGOv/$_1.JPG?set_id=880000500F)

With those turquoise-and-black wraps over the honey-colored blank, I think it'll look positively bodacious!   :D

~A~

Nice Aiala. Give me a call if you need to get rid of those Fenwicks when you get your custom builts ;).

Can't wait to see the finished rod ;)

 Ma'am, (and we already discussed "ma'am" as you will recall, I hereby indite you on charges of sandbagging..  Who sits on those cherry sticks without telling us???? I always loved those and actually am wrapping a couple on that scheme.  Nicely done!!!!

J

Quote from: Alto Mare on February 27, 2016, 02:17:06 AM
Nice, Aiala. Give me a call if you need to get rid of those Fenwicks when you get your custom builts. ;)

I'll bear it in mind, Sal. They do match up wonderfully with a 970.   ;D

~A~

Very Nice Aiala. :o

really pops with all those bright colours, I like it.

Aiala, you outdid yourself again with another home run.  8) 8)


    Ted

Quote from: Aiala on February 27, 2016, 01:56:02 AM
Well, I actually am getting a custom-built rod (my upcoming birthday present!) but it's for a different reel....

Aiala,

Don't forget to keep.us in the loop on this one.  I for one am excited to see the final product.

John

I just reread this thread, and am a bit embarrassed to share that I ran into some considerable difficulty getting all the parts to marry and perform as I would have liked.  I had dog clearance issues when using the second gen SS sleeves, (easily remedied), and problems with the inner diameter of the PC 5:1 pinion being a bit too tight on an older Tiburon spool.  The SS jack seemed a bit sticky, and seemed to bind a bit on the pinion (if/when the pinion was not perfectly square.  I noticed the jack has the ability to move ever so slightly side to side.  For some reason the jack/pinion assembly just didn'the seem to hold the pinion square and smart to the maingear.  I messed around with different stock and aftermarket Jacks and yokes, and tried different spool/main body assemblies with mixed results.  The plates are beautifully crafted and clearly have tight tollerances, and plenty of 'headspace' above the drag stack (I ended up using a shortened and fitted spacer, and a heavy spring washer over a delron on top, and an identical  (same size as Sal's) undergear washer.  The ProChallenger SS gears are clearly well made, and mesh well with one another, but it seems these 5:1 gears require a bit tighter fit then the 4:1 set, or the very first prototype 5:1 gears, and the inner diameter of the pinion is just a bit tight for some spools.  The SS gears are always a bit noisy at first, and tend to quite down with use, but I just had trouble getting all of the pieces to fit.  Stock spool worked great, stock headplate parts worked great, modified drag worked great, and te double dog bridges was clicking away, and engaging solidly with no unwanted binding.  I just wonder if using the fitted spacer, with te bridge moved the maingear ever so slightly away from te pinion, and the 5:1 pinion with smaller teeth, was just not seated quite close enough or square to the main, when the jack/yoke assembly was engaged?  I eventually got the performance I was after, but it just seemed a bit more 'finacy' then some of the other JM builds I have done. 

Anyways, I got the job done, and the reels off my bench (no pictures available), but I am not 100% confident in my results (a rare event indeed). 

Looks like everyone else who posted on their builds here, had only minor issues (dog adjustment, dog post clearance, pinion/spool shaft polishing, minor yoke polish/adjustment) and we're able to sort them quickly.

Has anyone else experienced any troubles with their Jigmaster builds that havn't yet been duscussed?

I hesitate to bring up my issues (bumpy slipping gears, poor freespool, tight and rough winding/esp. Under pressure).  I think I eventually got them sorted, and I am sure had I been willing to deviate away from any one of the aftermarket components I installed, the trouble would have been much less. 

Maybe I was just a bit tired and not thinking clearly or something, but it seemed as soon as I solved one problem, I had another, then another to deal with. 

These plates are beautiful, and I love all of the aftermarket components available for these Penns, but they are not always just plug-and-play.  I enjoy the customizing part, and realize this entails tweaking buts and pieces to get the well oiled performance machine you envisioned, but sometimes it goes smoothly, and sometimes it doesn't. 

Sorry for the long rant, better get back after the Internationals on my bench

:)

Quote from: Tightlines666 on March 16, 2016, 06:05:18 PM
The SS jack seemed a bit sticky, and seemed to bind a bit on the pinion (if/when the pinion was not perfectly square.  I noticed the jack has the ability to move ever so slightly side to side.  For some reason the jack/pinion assembly just didn'the seem to hold the pinion square and smart to the maingear.
:)

John, I don't think this is likely to be your problem, but check the eccentric spring and see if the tip that passes through the eccentric is sticking up far enough to contact the eccentric jack and move it sideways..... I had a hard time finding what was causing my problem a few months ago. The clutch mechanism would shift once and then get stuck. The spring was moving the eccentric jack just far enough from the proper position to cause it to jam and not shift. My solution (I later found a reference to the same problem from Sal) was just to grind the spring down flush with the eccentric.

Oh, and BTW, the Jigmaster pinion doesn't always stay square when you shift without the spool spindle in the pinion gear; You can hold it square with your finger and it will shift smoothly. You know (but some newbs may not) that the spindle passes through the pinion gear, and that pinion gear behaves differently when there is a spindle in it as compared to when there is not. Sal tells me you can ruin a pinion gear by repeatedly jamming it up against the bridge like that.

Hope that helps.



Sid

Quote from: sdlehr on March 16, 2016, 08:04:30 PM

Quote from: Tightlines666 on March 16, 2016, 06:05:18 PM
The SS jack seemed a bit sticky, and seemed to bind a bit on the pinion (if/when the pinion was not perfectly square.  I noticed the jack has the ability to move ever so slightly side to side.  For some reason the jack/pinion assembly just didn'the seem to hold the pinion square and smart to the maingear.
:)

John, I don't think this is likely to be your problem, but check the eccentric spring and see if the tip that passes through the eccentric is sticking up far enough to contact the eccentric jack and move it sideways..... I had a hard time finding what was causing my problem a few months ago. The clutch mechanism would shift once and then get stuck. The spring was moving the eccentric jack just far enough from the proper position to cause it to jam and not shift. My solution (I later found a reference to the same problem from Sal) was just to grind the spring down flush with the eccentric.

Oh, and BTW, the Jigmaster pinion doesn't always stay square when you shift without the spool spindle in the pinion gear; You can hold it square with your finger and it will shift smoothly. You know (but some newbs may not) that the spindle passes through the pinion gear, and that pinion gear behaves differently when there is a spindle in it as compared to when there is not. Sal tells me you can ruin a pinion gear by repeatedly jamming it up against the bridge like that.

Hope that helps.



Sid

You learn quick Sid,  at the rate you're going, you'll be showing us how its done in no time  ;)

Quote from: Tightlines666 on March 16, 2016, 06:05:18 PM
I just reread this thread, and am a bit embarrassed to share that I ran into some considerable difficulty getting all the parts to marry and perform as I would have liked.  I had dog clearance issues when using the second gen SS sleeves, (easily remedied), and problems with the inner diameter of the PC 5:1 pinion being a bit too tight on an older Tiburon spool.  The SS jack seemed a bit sticky, and seemed to bind a bit on the pinion (if/when the pinion was not perfectly square.  I noticed the jack has the ability to move ever so slightly side to side.  For some reason the jack/pinion assembly just didn'the seem to hold the pinion square and smart to the maingear.  I messed around with different stock and aftermarket Jacks and yokes, and tried different spool/main body assemblies with mixed results.  The plates are beautifully crafted and clearly have tight tollerances, and plenty of 'headspace' above the drag stack (I ended up using a shortened and fitted spacer, and a heavy spring washer over a delron on top, and an identical  (same size as Sal's) undergear washer.  The ProChallenger SS gears are clearly well made, and mesh well with one another, but it seems these 5:1 gears require a bit tighter fit then the 4:1 set, or the very first prototype 5:1 gears, and the inner diameter of the pinion is just a bit tight for some spools.  The SS gears are always a bit noisy at first, and tend to quite down with use, but I just had trouble getting all of the pieces to fit.  Stock spool worked great, stock headplate parts worked great, modified drag worked great, and te double dog bridges was clicking away, and engaging solidly with no unwanted binding.  I just wonder if using the fitted spacer, with te bridge moved the maingear ever so slightly away from te pinion, and the 5:1 pinion with smaller teeth, was just not seated quite close enough or square to the main, when the jack/yoke assembly was engaged?  I eventually got the performance I was after, but it just seemed a bit more 'finacy' then some of the other JM builds I have done.  

Anyways, I got the job done, and the reels off my bench (no pictures available), but I am not 100% confident in my results (a rare event indeed).  

Looks like everyone else who posted on their builds here, had only minor issues (dog adjustment, dog post clearance, pinion/spool shaft polishing, minor yoke polish/adjustment) and we're able to sort them quickly.

Has anyone else experienced any troubles with their Jigmaster builds that havn't yet been duscussed?

I hesitate to bring up my issues (bumpy slipping gears, poor freespool, tight and rough winding/esp. Under pressure).  I think I eventually got them sorted, and I am sure had I been willing to deviate away from any one of the aftermarket components I installed, the trouble would have been much less.  

Maybe I was just a bit tired and not thinking clearly or something, but it seemed as soon as I solved one problem, I had another, then another to deal with.  

These plates are beautiful, and I love all of the aftermarket components available for these Penns, but they are not always just plug-and-play.  I enjoy the customizing part, and realize this entails tweaking buts and pieces to get the well oiled performance machine you envisioned, but sometimes it goes smoothly, and sometimes it doesn't.  

Sorry for the long rant, better get back after the Internationals on my bench

:)

I had this problem too with the 5:1 gears and the Tiburon Spool. Mine was a Yellowfin spool and simply would not allow to main/pinion gears to mesh and resulted in major binding/skipping under load. Frank the reel guru on Facebooks 808SC has said it's a very common issue with Tib spools as the spindles were machined a touch thicker and the shoulders are a bit taller/thicker too. First, forget the 5:1 Black Gears, they aren't going to work properly with the Tib spool no matter how much tuning and work you put in. I have the exact same SS internals on a Newell 300C jigmaster (except I'm using a newell spool vs Tiburon) and the 5:1's work awesome...so the issue is the Tib spool and BP 5:1 gears simply don't work well together.

Issues I had were probably similar to a few people's projects. These were as follows:
-Spool spindle not clearing pinion (would not fit over the spool shaft)
-After sanding down spindle for clearance through pinion the spindle shoulders were hitting the pinion during freespool.
-Couldn't center the spool (pushed far to the clicker side, with edge of lip almost showing).
Hopefully the solution I found thru trial/error saves you more headaches and helps out. It may not be what other guys would recommend but it's worked for me and has already allowed the reel to muscle in a 5'+ gray reef shark.

The obvious 1st thing to try was sanding the spindle shaft to match the clearance of the stock penn spool. Wet sanded w/ fine grit, oiled steel wool, Nevr-Dull to a mirror polish. Sanded down the shoulders/beveled them a little more. Pinion can now slide over shaft and engage the spool, great.

The next issue that came up was while attempting to cast an 8oz lead w/ bait the spindle shoulders would hit/vibrate like crazy off the pinion, killing free spool. Still the clearance between the spindle shoulders and pinion were so bad I had to have the spool super far off center, almost all the way to the left.

Here's what I've come up with that has her sorted out nicely. Casts very smoothly, spool is centered, pinion/spindle shift into freespool/retrieve fine. To be clear along with the Cortez plates I'm using a Tiburon YFS kit, Gen 1 SS sleeve, BP SS bridge/yoke/eccentric, Penn Steel 4:1 main and pinion w/ Bryan's 5+1 and a delrin undergear. Not sure if it will work with a different combo of aftermarket and stock parts, but it should.

I noticed rub marks on the center edge of the pinion after trying to make this reel work. So I chamfered the edges of the pinion and also took a round needle file (a dremel would work too) and made a tapered round channel in the center lined up with the hole, smoothed the edges out with fine grit sandpaper.

(http://i.imgur.com/6LXmSVFl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/39DV5LLl.jpg)

The face of these shoulders aren't flat so it causes them to rub on the pinion during casting/freespool
(http://i.imgur.com/UnfOivyl.jpg)

Centered spool, spins without bumps or hitting the pinion. Casts as well as a heavy tib spool could be expected to.
(http://i.imgur.com/NYKmGj8l.jpg)

Hopefully this helped, Aloha!

Nice to hear I am not the only one that had troubles marrying the PC 5:1 pinion to an Tiburon spool.  The early spool had shoulders that were short, and recessed into the spool a bit.  This coupled with the heavy/stepped /ramp wear were a bit problematic.  I was able to sand/Polish the spool shaft to fit the pinion, but getting it to seat and unseat properly by carefully shaping the worn shoulder ended up a but of a failure.  As I said the spool worked fine with a stock 4:1 pinion.  The other issue was that lightly sanding/shaping the jack (as I have done with much sucess before) in order to smooth out the shifting, seemed to cause the yoke to be prone to slight shifting when the engaged in these plates.  The jack/yoke worked great with the 5:1 set in a stock sideplate, so I suspect it had something to do with the tighter tollerances.  For this reason, I was hesitant to mess with the jack tabs.  Curiously, the stock bronze jack worked much better with the gears, in this plate.  Seems this may be related to the fact that bronze has a natural friction reducing property that the SS lacks.  In fact the SS jack, and yoke combo seemed to work better then using both stock bronze parts.  Kinda makes me wonder if I should have tried a brass jack, and SS yoke combo.  I also wonder how quickly the SS pinion will actually chew up the stock yoke (I mean to the point of affecting performance, or compromising integrity).  Most of us service our reels reguarily, so why not use a smoother stock yoke.  I have seen old stock yokes with hardened steel pinions, and years of heavy use, and only moderate wear visable.  

Wish, I would have thought of applying your modifications (chamfering/tapering) to the pinion before settling on 'It's performing good enough with the non-Tiburon spool, and it will get better with use' cop out.  I usually don't let work off my bench until it is performing flawlessly, but in the interest if time I had to make an exception here.  If there is anything I have learned about the time factor with regards to reel repair work, it is to never restrict yourself to a short window to complete work.  Reasonable expectations are fine, and sometimes things come together quicker then expected, but it pays to take the time to get it right, even if it doe$n't.  Also, it's inevitable that at least a few of the reels you service will work great on your bench, but experience some sort of problem during 'real world' field use.  Personally, I have dealt with these 1-5% issues by standing behind my work dealing with this issues as soon as I am made aware if them.  

It's all a constant learning process, kinda what continues to make this stuff challenging and rewarding.

When you get that freespool knock and you don't want to move the spool any further (and you've already tweaked your jack tabs); you can stone the end of your pinion a bit on the notched end. I just went trough this with an old Pro Gear. I took a couple of thousandths straight off the end and polished it up and she was very quiet afterwards.
-Mike

Quote from: Yogi_fish808 on March 17, 2016, 04:32:22 AM

I had this problem too with the 5:1 gears and the Tiburon Spool. Mine was a Yellowfin spool and simply would not allow to main/pinion gears to mesh and resulted in major binding/skipping under load. Frank the reel guru on Facebooks 808SC has said it's a very common issue with Tib spools as the spindles were machined a touch thicker and the shoulders are a bit taller/thicker too. First, forget the 5:1 Black Gears, they aren't going to work properly with the Tib spool no matter how much tuning and work you put in. I have the exact same SS internals on a Newell 300C jigmaster (except I'm using a newell spool vs Tiburon) and the 5:1's work awesome...so the issue is the Tib spool and BP 5:1 gears simply don't work well together.

Issues I had were probably similar to a few people's projects. These were as follows:
-Spool spindle not clearing pinion (would not fit over the spool shaft)
-After sanding down spindle for clearance through pinion the spindle shoulders were hitting the pinion during freespool.
-Couldn't center the spool (pushed far to the clicker side, with edge of lip almost showing).
Hopefully the solution I found thru trial/error saves you more headaches and helps out. It may not be what other guys would recommend but it's worked for me and has already allowed the reel to muscle in a 5'+ gray reef shark.

The obvious 1st thing to try was sanding the spindle shaft to match the clearance of the stock penn spool. Wet sanded w/ fine grit, oiled steel wool, Nevr-Dull to a mirror polish. Sanded down the shoulders/beveled them a little more. Pinion can now slide over shaft and engage the spool, great.

The next issue that came up was while attempting to cast an 8oz lead w/ bait the spindle shoulders would hit/vibrate like crazy off the pinion, killing free spool. Still the clearance between the spindle shoulders and pinion were so bad I had to have the spool super far off center, almost all the way to the left.

Here's what I've come up with that has her sorted out nicely. Casts very smoothly, spool is centered, pinion/spindle shift into freespool/retrieve fine. To be clear along with the Cortez plates I'm using a Tiburon YFS kit, Gen 1 SS sleeve, BP SS bridge/yoke/eccentric, Penn Steel 4:1 main and pinion w/ Bryan's 5+1 and a delrin undergear. Not sure if it will work with a different combo of aftermarket and stock parts, but it should.

I noticed rub marks on the center edge of the pinion after trying to make this reel work. So I chamfered the edges of the pinion and also took a round needle file (a dremel would work too) and made a tapered round channel in the center lined up with the hole, smoothed the edges out with fine grit sandpaper.


Hopefully this helped, Aloha!

Yogi,
did you shorten the two bridge screws that I've marked with the arrows? If you didn't, you might want to check the inner side of the spool for any rub marks. The lower screws would do fine as they are
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/39DV5LLl.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/39DV5LLl.jpg.html)
Also, did you do anything to one of the dog on the Pro Challenger bridge plate? On some custom made parts, tolerance is all over, yes even accurate plates vary.
It would be an easy having parts that works on anything, but then you would be dealing other issues. personally I like it this way, I do not mind a little fine tuning here and there.
Good tip on polishing the spool shaft so the pinion slides nicely, all my reels always get the same treatment and should be done by all, all the times.

Sal

Quote from: Alto Mare on March 16, 2016, 09:02:45 PM

You learn quick Sid,  at the rate you're going, you'll be showing us how its done in no time  ;)

Thanks, Sal. That's what happens when you get to learn from the best!

Sid

I spoke with Alan C last week before I start my little project. He said sometimes the Double Dogs on the SS Bridge Plate are to thick & have to be sanded.

Wow Yogi, that is one heck of a beautiful eye pooping stretched out red racer you've got there. Love it !!

  Ted

Sal, the spool thankfully doesn't rub on the bridge screws, but ill shorten them to be safe. I did file down the dog as you discussed in another thread.

Aloha,
Kyle

Very good Kyle. Not all spool will rub, yours appears to have lots of room there. But, its always a good idea to have the screws flush with the plate.
That's a nice reel you got there, enjoy it.

Sal

Yes, I am aware of the auction listing for the Jiggy Plates, and yes I'm pretty sure I know who it is.
Thanks to those who have messaged me about it.
So here's my take on it:
We live in a free market society. Anyone can buy and sell what they want, at whatever price they want.
I built and sold them for a price that was fair and profitable for me. Once I sell it, I have no say in it's future.
I sell things for more than I paid for them all the time, as do most of you. I agree that a 100%+ mark up is steep, but that doesn't mean it will sell at that price either.
The only issue I have with the listing is the seller is presuming to know my build schedule and trying to justify his price by the perceived
scarcity.
If you really need a set of plates at that price, I'll take it as a compliment!
Tom

I offered him $108.00 + shipping

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on March 18, 2016, 03:21:21 PM
Yes, I am aware of the auction listing for the Jiggy Plates, and yes I'm pretty sure I know who it is.
Thanks to those who have messaged me about it.
So here's my take on it:
We live in a free market society. Anyone can buy and sell what they want, at whatever price they want.
I built and sold them for a price that was fair and profitable for me. Once I sell it, I have no say in it's future.
I sell things for more than I paid for them all the time, as do most of you. I agree that a 100%+ mark up is steep, but that doesn't mean it will sell at that price either.
The only issue I have with the listing is the seller is presuming to know my build schedule and trying to justify his price by the perceived
scarcity.
If you really need a set of plates at that price, I'll take it as a compliment!
Tom

Yup, that's what really got to me. He is claiming that you are not going to make any more  of these plates. How would he know what your future plans are.

Quote from: PacRat on March 17, 2016, 05:46:06 AM
When you get that freespool knock and you don't want to move the spool any further (and you've already tweaked your jack tabs); you can stone the end of your pinion a bit on the notched end. I just went trough this with an old Pro Gear. I took a couple of thousandths straight off the end and polished it up and she was very quiet afterwards.
-Mike

Thanks. A little light bulb just lit up over my head. I never thought of messing with the jack tabs.....  ;D

Sid

I wouldn't mess with the tabs on the Pro Challenger's jacks, those are stamped to perfection.

Sal

Yep, don't mess with the jack

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on March 18, 2016, 03:21:21 PM
Yes, I am aware of the auction listing for the Jiggy Plates, and yes I'm pretty sure I know who it is.
Thanks to those who have messaged me about it.
So here's my take on it:
We live in a free market society. Anyone can buy and sell what they want, at whatever price they want.
I built and sold them for a price that was fair and profitable for me. Once I sell it, I have no say in it's future.
I sell things for more than I paid for them all the time, as do most of you. I agree that a 100%+ mark up is steep, but that doesn't mean it will sell at that price either.
The only issue I have with the listing is the seller is presuming to know my build schedule and trying to justify his price by the perceived
scarcity.
If you really need a set of plates at that price, I'll take it as a compliment!
Tom

I saw some of my handles on ebay a while back, with knobs already installed.  My wife and I had a little laugh about it because anyone could order a handle from me, and a knob from ebay, pay shipping on both, and still come out cheaper than this auction.  I still got my price for the handles though, so I couldnt complain. 

Quote from: Alto Mare on March 18, 2016, 08:45:18 PM
I wouldn't mess with the tabs on the Pro Challenger's jacks, those are stamped to perfection.

Sal

I was thinking about one or two of my Penn conventionals that sometimes have that little knock during free spool; instead of shimming to the left from the start. My Pro Challenger jack was not the problem.....

Sid

Quote from: sdlehr on March 19, 2016, 12:42:06 PM

Quote from: Alto Mare on March 18, 2016, 08:45:18 PM
I wouldn't mess with the tabs on the Pro Challenger's jacks, those are stamped to perfection.

Sal

I was thinking about one or two of my Penn conventionals that sometimes have that little knock during free spool; instead of shimming to the left from the start. My Pro Challenger jack was not the problem.....

Sid

Got it Sid, that makes sense. I have done a few of those myself.

Sal

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on March 18, 2016, 03:21:21 PM
Yes, I am aware of the auction listing for the Jiggy Plates, and yes I'm pretty sure I know who it is.
Thanks to those who have messaged me about it.
So here's my take on it:
We live in a free market society. Anyone can buy and sell what they want, at whatever price they want.
I built and sold them for a price that was fair and profitable for me. Once I sell it, I have no say in it's future.
I sell things for more than I paid for them all the time, as do most of you. I agree that a 100%+ mark up is steep, but that doesn't mean it will sell at that price either.
The only issue I have with the listing is the seller is presuming to know my build schedule and trying to justify his price by the perceived
scarcity.
If you really need a set of plates at that price, I'll take it as a compliment!


Exactly!!!!!
Tom

Any jig aluminum versions for the 505hs?

Quote from: bparages808 on March 29, 2016, 03:04:53 AM
Any jig aluminum versions for the 505hs?

No need for a 505 version.

  Just use the 500 version and add Pro Challenger 5/1 SS gears and you're there.

   Ted

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on March 18, 2016, 03:21:21 PM

The only issue I have with the listing is the seller is presuming to know my build schedule and trying to justify his price by the perceived
scarcity.

Tom

I don't want to read too much into your comment, but.....That's great news Tom - put me down for a silver set in the next run.  ;D

Can I order two for next run? I promise not to sell them

I'm keeping mine for the future investment potential, I'm planning to retire off Cortez conversion plate sales.
If they double in value in 20 years, and I got 3 sets, that's 324.00 profit!  I'd be able to afford a new 2036 set of Cortez magnum plates,  and a matching frame kit!

Thanks for the laugh, David!!!

Sid

Aside from the Tiburon spool, was there any other issues with this build?

Shorter bridge screws??

I was experimenting with some parts and found that it is possible to successfully install newell parts on Tom's jigmaster plates. As you can see this is a graphite 332 spool (not sure what letter series). The bearing cups on the Cortez plates have a lot more adjustability than accuplates and can be backed off enough to fit the longer spool shaft, freespool is awesome too. Even with the handle-side cup backed out a bit there's still ~1/16" of clearance with Adam's SS star. The clicker-side cup will still be in enough to have the o-ring inside the plate. This gives us even more options for mixing/matching parts! So if you've got some newell parts lying around have at it guys, they fit!

(http://i.imgur.com/tOtP7X9l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/EtcfXHul.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/1Q1jrKHl.jpg)

Spool is nicely centered with the ideal amount of play.
(http://i.imgur.com/fz4Oh7Ol.jpg)

great looking reel yogi. cool to see more options. I just happen to have a spare 332 spool  :).  thanks for posting. 

Good to know and that's a great looking reel!
Really liking the green.

Yep,
Just trying to be helpful. Since the graphite spools are even better casting I knew it would be something a lot of guys would be stoked to know about. I actually had this put together with a green P20 frame and newell 500 spool but being that we all love tinkering here.....i couldn't leave it alone.

Quote from: Yogi_fish808 on May 19, 2016, 08:00:41 AM
Yep,
Just trying to be helpful. Since the graphite spools are even better casting I knew it would be something a lot of guys would be stoked to know about. I actually had this put together with a green P20 frame and newell 500 spool but being that we all love tinkering here.....i couldn't leave it alone.

Nice discovery Yogi

Is your green jigmaster sporting a newell or penn seat ??....If so you may want to change back to a half frame which will cover the main gear. The stock penn seat and newell seat do not cover the exposed part of the main gear and should only be used on jigmasters with inner chrome rings. Once you eliminate the rings, it leaves a large portion of the main gear exposed to the elements, which is not a good thing.

 A half frame is the only thing that will cover that part of the gear.

 Ted

Quote from: Maxed Out on May 19, 2016, 05:05:32 PM

Quote from: Yogi_fish808 on May 19, 2016, 08:00:41 AM
Yep,
Just trying to be helpful. Since the graphite spools are even better casting I knew it would be something a lot of guys would be stoked to know about. I actually had this put together with a green P20 frame and newell 500 spool but being that we all love tinkering here.....i couldn't leave it alone.

Nice discovery Yogi

Is your green jigmaster sporting a newell or penn seat ??....If so you may want to change back to a half frame which will cover the main gear. The stock penn seat and newell seat do not cover the exposed part of the main gear and should only be used on jigmasters with inner chrome rings. Once you eliminate the rings, it leaves a large portion of the main gear exposed to the elements, which is not a good thing.

 A half frame is the only thing that will cover that part of the gear.

 Ted

It's got Newell bars and base on it atm. If I was actually going to fish it as a 332/99 width I'd probably get a P29 frame. For shorecasting here I had it set up with a matching green P20 tib frame and newell 500 spool, so far it's just stayed on the shelf to look pretty. It may be the base for the Super Jigmaster kit Randy is coming out with though!

I will have another run of these plates in about three weeks. Just in time for Randy's wide frames! ;D

Is it too late to be added to the list for the second run of these?

-James

is it too late to get on list? If not a green and a black one

I need some assistance on the installation of the double dog bridge kit and the cortez side plates.
I have a 99 width reel with a tiburon frame and newell spool, all the parts went together well with 1 exception.
The stainless spacer in the pro challenger kit that covers the sleeve, the outer diameter is too large to fit into the side plate.
Should I not use this part, or sand in down to fit?
If sanding it down I don't have a lathe or drill press to rotate it and presume hand sanding with wet and dry paper will work as there doesn't appear to be too much metal to remove to get it to fit?

Thanks again Peter

If you have an electric hand drill it might work with a nut & bolt and a couple of spacers on each side. Or you could just use your original spacer.      Rudy

I dropped another order at the platers last week.
They should be ready in 3-4 weeks.
Silver, Red,Green, and Ice Blue are the colors this time around!

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on July 10, 2016, 11:02:00 PM
I dropped another order at the platers last week.
They should be ready in 3-4 weeks.
Silver, Red,Green, and Ice Blue are the colors this time around!

So, I'm guessing no one besides me is interested in Cobalt Blue, oh well....

Bula Tom,

Red, Green , Silver- 1 each for me please!

Hi Tom, I would love to grab 2 silver sets if possible  8) 8)

  Thanks, Ted

2 blue please

Quote from: Alto Mare on July 10, 2016, 11:19:22 PM

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on July 10, 2016, 11:02:00 PM
I dropped another order at the platers last week.
They should be ready in 3-4 weeks.
Silver, Red,Green, and Ice Blue are the colors this time around!

So, I'm guessing no one besides me is interested in Cobalt Blue, oh well....

Sal, nobody asked about cobalt blue, and it isn't one of Tom's options... I like the idea of a cobalt blue, so you are not alone my friend.  ;) ;)

 Ted

It's hard to match ice blue. Cobalt blue is easier to match. Handle knobs and drag stars in ice blue are not available.

I'm needing a silver set if and when you have one available tom.
Just let me know and PayPal will be headed over.

One silver set please Tom
Mike

I'm not going to be taking lists for orders anymore. Hopefully you will be able to order directly from our website soon.
Trying to manage the last 113h release was tough. Two styles and five colors was too much.

Tom, that's totally understandable! Thanks for making all of the Cortez Creations available to us. The quality is impeccable!
Regards,  ..  Lou

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on July 15, 2016, 01:21:18 PM


I'm not going to be taking lists for orders anymore. Hopefully you will be able to order directly from our website soon.
Trying to manage the last 113h release was tough. Two styles and five colors was too much.

Yup! I could see how that could get out of hand...good call Tom!

I hate it when I get a man and wife that want to discuss the same job separately.   ;D

Never mind 100 guys making five different choices by post, email and pm.

You are making a wise decision.

Awesome I often thought it was might brave of you to sort through 15-25 pages of posts of orders, and changed orders for 100 of us?
Placing orders from your site should give you back your evenings and weekends for important things.
Like maybe.
A Squidder magnum project?

Since getting Tom's green plates I've had it assembled in various forms and wasn't sold on how I wanted it, even considered letting it go to a friend who really liked the green. Found that graphite "ultimate jigmaster" spool for $35 the other week and I think it was the last piece of the puzzle needed for this special build. The usual newell aluminum 500 spool is great but this one spins considerably better, can't wait to launch some lead and bait with this little baby now! Thank you Tom for making this awesome plates available to us and all the other guys making top notch custom parts.

Aloha,
Kyle

Part's list:
Cortez Customs Jigmaster plates
P20 frame
Newell graphite 500 spool
SS Jack/Yoke
SS gear-sleeve
Newell 5:1 SS gears
Adam's SS star
Power handle

(http://i.imgur.com/6oz0IjTl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/rsUm3BEl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/VSBhbktl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/XZOEd0Jl.jpg)

 Good luck with the green. Nice reel!

Our newest run of Jig Master plates are available via cortezconversions.com shortly! Silver, Ice Blue, Red, and Green.
I hope you all like them!
Tom

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on August 20, 2016, 01:11:54 AM
Our newest run of Jig Master plates are available via cortezconversions.com shortly! Silver, Ice Blue, Red, and Green.
I hope you all like them!
Tom

I have been patiently waiting for them to pop up on your website. Thanks for the update Tom

 
   Ted

Quote from: Maxed Out on August 20, 2016, 02:44:24 AM

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on August 20, 2016, 01:11:54 AM
Our newest run of Jig Master plates are available via cortezconversions.com shortly! Silver, Ice Blue, Red, and Green.
I hope you all like them!
Tom

I have been patiently waiting for them to pop up on your website. Thanks for the update Tom

 
   Ted

yup. :)

It's Official.......The latest batch of cortez jigmaster plates are now available on Toms website. Ordered mine this morning......thanks a million Tom !!


   Ted

Did a little bit of mix and matching with Tom's sideplates and put together a "Rasta" color-themed 500 jig, appropriate for here in Hawaii. Couldn't be happier with all the possibilities for different combinations of upgraded parts that we have available. Super stoked!

Aloha,
Kyle

(http://i.imgur.com/keBatgLl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/jtd73X1l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/1TWBn07l.jpg)

Quote from: Yogi_fish808 on October 04, 2016, 11:31:01 AM
Did a little bit of mix and matching with Tom's sideplates and put together a "Rasta" color-themed 500 jig, appropriate for here in Hawaii. Couldn't be happier with all the possibilities for different combinations of upgraded parts that we have available. Super stoked!

Aloha,
Kyle

(http://i.imgur.com/keBatgLl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/jtd73X1l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/1TWBn07l.jpg)

Right on mon!!! Rasta be fishin!!!!

Fish on Mon
I love it!

You guys are probably sick seeing this reel already but I need to do an update. Ted(Maxedout) noticed that the gold accuframe I had was a little worse for wear especially near the foot/base  and sent me the mintiest one I've ever seen as a gift. I really appreciate the generosity and will pay it forward one day to another member of the AT family. Ted also sent a jar of his Jalapeno albacore that I can't wait to make into some spicy tuna sandwiches.

(http://i.imgur.com/39grx68l.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/nl4WWXPl.jpg)

(http://i.imgur.com/lfR9fkLl.jpg)

That's just beautiful!

Thanks.

Steve

Post away Yogi_fish, I for one never get tired looking at that reel.
I'm not surprised about Ted, he's a good man, he also does a lot of things behind the scene quietly.

Beautiful job!

Sal

That's a beauty! If that one ever tries to walk off a boat with it, it'll surely be spotted ...and that person dealt with properly ;D
Ted, is that kinda guy, and Sal, is right on with most of it going on behind the scenes.  I for one have been the beneficiary of not only knowledge, reels, parts, etc, and that Jalapeño Albacore that Kim and I have to fight over.  She usually sneaks bites while she's making the cracker spread, but doesn't think I know it ::)
Sweet reel, Yogi and class act move, Ted!

That Ted is a stand up guy.
I know what you mean about that Albacore Dom. I hope I get some this year. ;D
That stuff is amazing! :P
Awesome Reel Yogi!
This earns you a Sensei Member promotion for thinking outside the box. ;)

Wow, now that's a head turner Yogi. Congrats on a gorgeous one off build !!  :o :o

  Ted

Ted for President !!!!!!  A reel candidate...

Better choice than the real candidates don't ya think?

Has anyone ever tried to put a Newell tiburon spool in with their Cortez plates? I've read somewhere there is enough bearing adjustment to account for the longer shaft. I can't remember where I found that article though. Reason I ask is because I have an easier time finding colored N344 tiburon spools locally rather than Jigmaster wide spools.

Quote from: Larosha on December 08, 2016, 10:26:37 AM
Has anyone ever tried to put a Newell tiburon spool in with their Cortez plates? I've read somewhere there is enough bearing adjustment to account for the longer shaft. I can't remember where I found that article though. Reason I ask is because I have an easier time finding colored N344 tiburon spools locally rather than Jigmaster wide spools.

I have made oem newell spools work with the cortez plates just fine, the caps do have enough adjustment to make them work. Tiburon spools at times are machined slightly out of spec, I've had problems with them like shoulders knocking the pinion even w/ spool centered, not clearing thru the pinion gear and the ends not fitting into the bearings. I chuck the shaft into a drill (protect w/ tape) wet-sand with 800 to get clearnacce. Then 1000 grit, oiled fine steel wool and stainless polish compound/nev-r-dull to get a friction free mirror finish.

Good morning reel universe:

Had a gentleman ask me to complete a build for him.  I went through my notes and read, reread, then reread this thread again to identify where the problem/solution is for this issue.  After much trial and error, I can't isolate this rubbing sound that the spool is making when engaged in the pinion.  Free spool is all of 6 seconds.  Please see/hear the video below:

https://youtu.be/WIR7a8NZ9nU

Thank you in advance for any ideas or tips!

Build List:

Pro Challenger gears and pinion, spool.
SS eccentric and yoke
Cortex Conversions plates
Tib Frame.



Andy

Andy, sounds like your spool is hitting the bridge screws. Shave them down a hair and you should be set. Freespool could be improved as well, i'm not sure if your bearings have oil or grease.

Sal

Quote from: Alto Mare on February 19, 2017, 04:58:47 PM
Andy, sounds like your spool is hitting the bridge screws. Shave them down a hair and you should be set. Freespool could be improved as well, i'm not sure if your bearings have oil or grease.

Sal

Sal:

     I should have mentioned that in the previous post.  I shaved down the bridge screws and greased the spool side that faces the bridge to make sure they were not rubbing the spool which would show in the grease.  Bearings all have oil. 
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/photoHumboldt/IMG_8379_zps3eh1uf9m.jpg) (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/photoHumboldt/media/IMG_8379_zps3eh1uf9m.jpg.html)

It seems to be something between the pinion and the spool spindle?  I have tried a Penn spool and a Tib spool all make the same sound.  All have the same free spool.  I polished the spindle and the pinion.  From my notes I remembered Tom sending me some small washers for the clicker side spindle on one of my tib spools that increased free spool dramatically.  I put them on the PC spool and it helped a little with free spool but nothing like it should be and the same rubbing sound was present. Grrrr

Break time!  I'm taking the dog for a walk!  Clear my head...

Andy

Andy. looks like you have it all covered :). Remove the bridge and see if the pinion slides all the eway up on the shaft with very little effort.
Also, while you have that pinion out, rub the bottom part on a piece of 250 grit or 500.
When you spin the spool in free position, tilt the reel on the side, having the handle facing up. If the rubbing stops, you will need a heavier spacer on the handle side, unless you 're able to tighten that bearing cup a little more.

Andy

If you look at your first picture the spool is not centered. Back out the clicker side Bearing Cup a 1/2 turn & see what happens.

Mike

Andy,
It sounds like you've covered your bases. If performing Sal's bearing adjustment does not fix this there are two more things that might help. I also believe that you may be dealing with two separate issues.

1) This is an old trick from the Newell kits. Slightly loosen the side plate screws on one side, then give that sideplate a twist like you're taking the lid off a jar. Tighten the screws and give her a spin to see if your rub has gone away. Do this both clock-wise and counter-clock-wise to see if your contact goes away. Do one side at a time. It may take a few tries. If this doesn't get it; try doing both plates at the same time in opposite directions. The tolerances are very tight so a little movement goes a long way.
Once you're resolved the contact issue; free-spool may or may not improve. If not, proceed to step 2 to improve free-spool.

2) I have found that with a lot of the Jigmaster aluminum sideplates, that free-spool is not quite as good as we would expect. For a lot of us this isn't an issue (depending on what we are casting). But there is nothing quite as satisfying as a good, long free-spool. With these conversions we often get less free-spool with bearings than we had with bushings. I'm convinced that this is due to friction between the spool shaft and the pinion. I came to this conclusion because a new build will free-spool like crazy without gears then will drop way off once the drive-train is installed. Sal's polishing of the shaft and pinion does wonders to eliminate much of this friction. My way to check this is to turn the crank with the reel in free-spool. This pinion-to-shaft friction will be enough to turn the spool. Less friction will turn it less. This is a good indicator of how well your pinion is disengaging and floating on the shaft. Bushing Jigmasters actually engage the pinion onto the bushing (the bushing penetrates into the counter-bore in the rear of the pinion gear) which keeps the shaft and pinion in perfect alignment with very little friction between the shaft and pinion. When we do away with the bushings for bearings we lose this alignment aid. You will notice this if you compare both types of bridge/plates with the plate off the frame while shifting in and out of free-spool. The bushing pinion will disengage squarely while the bearing pinion will tilt somewhat. I have never owned a 505/506 so I'm not certain how or if Penn addressed this in their bearing reels. I call this 'pinion tilt' and it will cause a 5 second free-spool in even the finest tuned custom bearing sideplate Jigmaster. This will vary with the mass of your spool and line but is typically less than 9 seconds of free-spool on an empty spool. If you intend to hurl jigs this won't bother you but if you plan to fly-line pinhead anchovies on light line you might want to improve this. Sometimes I ditch my new stainless eccentric jack for a stock Penn jack. This seems to improve the geometry and lessen the amount of 'pinion tilt' by squaring up the yoke with the springs compressed. This has to do with the overall geometry and the exact location where the ears contact the yoke. Think of your yoke as a parallel plane. If your yoke tilts so will your pinion. This is a spring-loaded balancing act as you need good alignment/orientation and yet still somewhat sloppy for your reel to function (this is one area where sloppy is good). I've found that I can go through my used parts bin trying jacks until I find a sweet one that free-spools best. I don't want to over complicate this but this is what has worked for me and I have seen some dramatic improvement in free-spool times. You also need to be very thorough and perform all of Sal's pinion and shaft polishing procedure.

-Mike

This is a good place for me to ask this question, it might be related to the issue above.
I do not have any of Tom's Classic jigmaster kits, but did 3 last week and everything went in with no issues, no spacers needed or anything else. I did shorten the bridge screws.
I do have a 4 sets of Tom's first run jigmasters, those do require shims.
If anyone happens to have both, could you measure the width of the two frames?... Standard and Classic. Please let me know if they're the same or if the Tiburon is a hair wider.

Thanks!

Sal

Andy, if you have a wad of grease on the keyed part of the spool shaft, that grease will travel down the shaft and gum up inside pinion and slow freespool way down.

I've actually had the best results using dremel on the pinion hole. I found sometimes the keyed part of the pinion has a tiny spec sticking inward, just enough to screw up freespool. Also make sure your yoke is nice and flat. A slightly bent yoke will cause all kinds of headaches

....also echoing what Mike said. The 500 was always a bushing reel and changing to bearing isn't always a walk in the park.

One more thing is check the tabs on the underside of the jack. I've found that if they are not sticking up enough, the pinion will not fully disengage....Also note it is very important to have the correct yoke springs. Also make sure both yoke springs are of equal strength. One stiff spring and one soft spring will make your pinion sit a little off kilter while in freespool.

Thank you Ted, Mike & Sal amongst others.  Now that I have given myself several days to recover from the carpal tunnel and rotor cuff injury caused from assembly and dis-assembly of this little beast so many many times, I will focus on the pinion and, yoke and spindle.  It is really the only place left to cause issues.

Thanks again!

Andy

Quote from: Maxed Out on February 19, 2017, 08:55:34 PM
Andy, if you have a wad of grease on the keyed part of the spool shaft, that grease will travel down the shaft and gum up inside pinion and slow freespool way down.

I've actually had the best results using dremel on the pinion hole. I found sometimes the keyed part of the pinion has a tiny spec sticking inward, just enough to screw up freespool. Also make sure your yoke is nice and flat. A slightly bent yoke will cause all kinds of headaches

....also echoing what Mike said. The 500 was always a bushing reel and changing to bearing isn't always a walk in the park.

One more thing is check the tabs on the underside of the jack. I've found that if they are not sticking up enough, the pinion will not fully disengage....Also note it is very important to have the correct yoke springs. Also make sure both yoke springs are of equal strength. One stiff spring and one soft spring will make your pinion sit a little off kilter while in freespool.

Winner Winner Chicken dinner!  Jack tabs were not at the right angle to allow the pinion to recess far enough.  Once that was corrected no rub and free spool is easily over a 60 seconds.  Thanks again everyone.  I think this gentleman will love his retirement gift from the guys at the office.  Ted, adult beverage is on me!

Andy

Hey all,
I found a set of blue JigMaster side plates. They are on the website if anyone is interested.
Tom

New batch of plates coming soon.
I have four colors at the moment: Sliver, Black, Cobalt Blue and Ice Blue.
What other colors? I'm going to do the standard Bordeaux Red in the next batch. Purple, too.
What other colors do you all want?

The price will go up a little as I'm including color matched eccentric levers with the kit.

Tom

How about a dark green ?¿?¿

All I can say is green !

Cool

dark green would be nice

I like green too  ;D

I would be in for two sets in black please, thank you.

I'm in for a set in purple!

Thanks,  ..  Lou

Quote from: CooldadE on September 07, 2018, 03:08:40 PM
All I can say is green !

Cool

And Black...

Cool

Are the new sideplates going to fit only the new style Tib frames ?
Or will they be available for the old style frames ?

Cool

Quote from: CooldadE on September 07, 2018, 09:33:36 PM
Are the new sideplates going to fit only the new style Tib frames ?
Or will they be available for the old style frames ?

Cool

I don't think Tiburon ever made a new style frame for the JigMaster. So to answer your question, these will only fit the old style frames from Tiburon or Accurate.

These will be on the website momentarily. This is the first batch, the next batches will be arriving in the weeks to come.

Tom

Beautiful!

Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on September 07, 2018, 10:28:36 PM

Quote from: CooldadE on September 07, 2018, 09:33:36 PM
Are the new sideplates going to fit only the new style Tib frames ?
Or will they be available for the old style frames ?

Cool

I don't think Tiburon ever made a new style frame for the JigMaster. So to answer your question, these will only fit the old style frames from Tiburon or Accurate.

These will be on the website momentarily. This is the first batch, the next batches will be arriving in the weeks to come.

Tom

:o...how can anyone resist ??

Quote from: STRIPER LOU on September 07, 2018, 07:20:33 PM
I'm in for a set in purple!

Thanks,  ..  Lou

Who didn't see that one coming  ;D ;D ;D

I don't know if it's possible but I think WHITE might be cool, but assume no one ever did white for a reason.  Is it that you can't go lighter than the material being anodized or is it a possibility?
Dom

Dom

Fish Blood [Blue Fish, Bunker] might stain the White side plates. Clams might do the same.

Mike

Evening All,
Get your shades on for this pic!
Jigmaster Side Plate sets in Purple, Light Green, Dark Green, Dark Red(same as always), Pink, and Orange in stock now! These make a great addition to the other colors in stock: Sliver, Black, Ice Blue, and Navy Blue.

This will be the last run of Jig master plates for quite some time, too many other projects to finish. Get them while they last. Christmas is right around the corner!!

Beautiful pic of your masterpieces, I'm now wanting another set  :o :o :o

Oh wow Tom, lots of nice colors there...love it!

Sal

Wow, gorgeous!
I've wanted to build an orange reel forever!
Timing is bad for me though, bummer!

Great work Tom!!

Wow Tom, love all the colors. I forsee a few more builds in my near future.

Ted

Just got cobalt thinking that was it. Just one more????

Ordered my purple set for that super duper extra narrow jigmaster kit.

Pink ??? Ruth is going to want a set :o ;D............................Joe

I took the Pink off the list for a while. It's a difficult color to anodize and I'm not too sure this is pink.
Joe- PM me your address and I'll send you a set for Ruth to check out. We'll let the expert decide! ;D
I'll extend this offer to a few of our AT.com regulars that chime in....
Tom

Aiala where are you ??

I'm certain she would be all over a set of pink plates

Quote from: Maxed Out on October 02, 2018, 05:35:25 PM

Aiala where are you ??

I'm certain she would be all over a set of pink plates

   YES...reserve her a set Tom!! 8)

Hmmm... Pink?
Naw, naw. What if I went by myself on a bottom fishing trip with a rig like that, without my protective-martial arts knowing son, and had to deal with a tough fishing-gang of regulars who pretty much had the run of things on the boat. Naw, that wouldn't be good deal...
"Why looky here boys, we got us onea them thare types. Hey boy!, where'd ya get that pretty lookin reel?"

I'll take a set for the wife. I need to put together an order.

Alison would love a pink set for our upcoming salmon adventures. What frame would work? A shiny stock 501 frame would work, but be kinda silly. How about a silver tib frame? I might sell her on that.
Ron

A black frame would contrast nicely.  ;D

Tom: Thank you very much for the offer of the pink side plates for my Jig-Master reel. When they come I will defiantly get in touch with you. Joe and I will work on it together.

Thank you again Ruth 

Thanks for the PMs.
I'll get the pink ones sent out and wait for the feedback on color. Please don't send any payment until you have a chance to look them over.
Tom

Tom,
I could also use a 600 and 900H sleeve and that 6-40 tap we talked about.
Daron

Which set of Jigmaster plates do I need to order to fit a P21XN?

I'm looking to make a mini tank 501  ;D

Quote from: pjstevko on October 13, 2018, 03:38:44 PM
Which set of Jigmaster plates do I need to order to fit a P21XN?

I'm looking to make a mini tank 501  ;D

Any of Toms jiggy plates sets will work...."old style and new style" only pertains to the 113h plate sets

Ted

Quote from: Maxed Out on October 13, 2018, 04:31:13 PM

Quote from: pjstevko on October 13, 2018, 03:38:44 PM
Which set of Jigmaster plates do I need to order to fit a P21XN?

I'm looking to make a mini tank 501  ;D

Any of Toms jiggy plates sets will work...."old style and new style" only pertains to the 113h plate sets

Ted

Thanks for that clarification!!!!

Now the real question is where to buy the SS internal goodies.....

Thanks for that clarification!!!!

Now the real question is where to buy the SS internal goodies.....
[/quote]

Here you go:  https://squareup.com/store/pro-challenger-llc/item/jm-x-package-for-penn-jigmaster

Quote from: Darin Crofton on October 13, 2018, 06:55:50 PM
Thanks for that clarification!!!!

Now the real question is where to buy the SS internal goodies.....

Here you go:  https://squareup.com/store/pro-challenger-llc/item/jm-x-package-for-penn-jigmaster
[/quote]

Thanks for the link.... Now the only things left to order are a drag star, handle and knob!

That kit includes drag stack.............................Joe

Quote from: Reel 224 on October 16, 2018, 12:48:18 AM
That kit includes drag stack.............................Joe

Yeah I know in need of a drag star.....

Quote from: pjstevko on October 16, 2018, 04:10:03 AM

Quote from: Reel 224 on October 16, 2018, 12:48:18 AM
That kit includes drag stack.............................Joe

Yeah I know in need of a drag star.....

Sorry I misread your post and thought you said Drag stack :-\.......................Joe

Quote from: Reel 224 on October 16, 2018, 11:02:31 AM

Quote from: pjstevko on October 16, 2018, 04:10:03 AM

Quote from: Reel 224 on October 16, 2018, 12:48:18 AM
That kit includes drag stack.............................Joe

Yeah I know in need of a drag star.....

Sorry I misread your post and thought you said Drag stack :-\.......................Joe

No problem I appreciate you looking out for me

I wish I saw this thread sooner. I would have loved some purple side plates. They probably would have looked good with an electric blue tiburon frame.

Quote from: Jenx on July 18, 2020, 10:57:15 PM
I wish I saw this thread sooner. I would have loved some purple side plates. They probably would have looked good with an electric blue tiburon frame.

Your in luck.  Tom has his own website, I believe it is Cortezconversions.com these May very well be available.  I've got several sets of them myself. 

All colors available EXCEPT purple which is sold out at this time.      Rudy

I already looked on his sight and saw purple was sold out, but thank you for the advice David.

It was worth a shot.

I just looked and the Cortez website is out of Jigmaster sideplates . . . Any word on when more will be available ?

Tight Lines !

Dave F.

They're back in stock if you're still looking.