Do any of you paint your Newell seats and bars? If so, what type of paint do you use? I have a lot of old Newell stuff and it's very well used. I've never considered painting it because I worry about corrosion getting under the paint. I have considered powder-coating or Cerakote but I'm concerned about heat and overspray. Have any of you fished a repainted Newell long term in saltwater?
Thanks
Mike
Wouldn't powder coating hold up better long term?
I've never done either one, so I'm curious.
I've got one reel that someone else power coated with a glittery green as a gift but it's a show piece.
PR,
There was a good thread with pictures about powder coating on the forum some time back. Use the Search function and see if you can find it. Good stuff!
Mac
thinkwahoo (forum member and one time Newell employee) is the man to talk to on this. He told me what paint to use and even the temp to bake it at in the oven. LOL. I spoke to him about this a good ten years ago but can't find my notes. It seem that Carl Newell wasn't happy with the early Newell anodized parts so he painted over them.
About 5 yrs ago I purchased a few 113h's and 114h's--well LOTS ;). I was looking for colorful frame and side plate covers and planned to upgrade the drags etc as needed. I thought I had really made a find as I had purchased a 113h with black side plates ;D---until I tore it apart. The inside of my "black" side plates were maroon!! ::) ::) Someone had painted them with something. The reel appeared to have been used after it was painted and I found no scratches or marks in the finish. I put it together with a purple accurate frame and made a gift to my adult daughter. she does use it some every year and it still has no flaws in the paint (finish). I wish that I could tell you what was used to make the plates black, but unfortunately I can't. But I can tell you that it is a good finish with no flaws and someone out there in cyberspace knows what they painted the reel side plates with. Good luck with your quest and I am sure it is possible.
TomT
I've used a semigloss or BBQ black paint on some parts I've done & they look like new. Spray your parts with either paint, heat your over to 400 degrees, put your parts on a aluminum pie tin, bake for 1 hour & let them cool.
Thanks guys. I recently purchased a used Newell 99 spool and when it arrived in the mail I could smell fresh paint on it and it actually felt a bit sticky. So into the 400 degree oven it went for an hour and it came out beautiful...especially after applying some Mothers Carnauba Wax.
Quote from: eguinn on January 09, 2016, 04:34:58 PM
I've used a semigloss or BBQ black paint on some parts I've done & they look like new. Spray your parts with either paint, heat your over to 400 degrees, put your parts on a aluminum pie tin, bake for 1 hour & let them cool.
Is this safe with graphite pieces? Thanks.
Mike
Quote from: mike1010 on June 04, 2016, 08:01:44 PM
Quote from: eguinn on January 09, 2016, 04:34:58 PM
I've used a semigloss or BBQ black paint on some parts I've done & they look like new. Spray your parts with either paint, heat your over to 400 degrees, put your parts on a aluminum pie tin, bake for 1 hour & let them cool.
Is this safe with graphite pieces? Thanks.
Mike
"Graphite" is just cast nylon with some combination of finely shredded glass and carbon/graphite fibers mixed in. From reading the trade literature: We are talking about liquefying at something in the neighborhood of 350-400 F. I wouldn't want to get the stuff over 150F, especially the stiffer parts that have a high fiber content. They will cool unevenly and possibly weaken or crack.
Powder coating only works on metal. It requires electrical conductivity and the ability to withstand 400F heat for around 10-20 minutes.
Powder coated aluminum is a nice option, It will surface scratch easier than anodized, but it will not chip off, and will be tougher to scratch through to bare aluminum. Not sure I would want to use it in a crossbar if the line is going to rub. Braid will definitely cut right through it. Powder coating requires specialized equipment and a dedicated oven.
I was taught to never use a food cooking oven for baking powder coat. Not sure if this applies to BBQ paint, but I would personally read the MSDS and application instructions carefully before proceeding.
-J.
You would never paint plastic spools then try to cure in an oven.
I've finally switched to Krylon semi black rattle can. It dries quickly and the finish holds up very well on the aluminum parts, and best of all doesn't require putting the parts in an oven. The finish really does look like the original painted parts.
Thanks, guys. Wahoo, are you using the Krylon "Rust Tough," or the plain interior/exterior?
I never tried it, but read that powder coating could be possible on plastic parts:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/articles/How_to_apply_Powdr2O_to_plastic.pdf
Sal
I have painted my fair share of aluminum but far from an expert by any means.
A couple of things that really help make the paint stick is a light sand blast, a zinc chromate or automotive acid etch type primer. For the topcoat I like Krylon the best as I never have any drying problems with it and it seems to be one of the harder finishes for a rattle can.
Let us know how you make out.
...............Lou
Quote from: Alto Mare on June 05, 2016, 04:30:30 PM
I never tried it, but read that powder coating could be possible on plastic parts:
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/articles/How_to_apply_Powdr2O_to_plastic.pdf
Sal
You are right Sal. The traditional, widely used powder coating method requires parts that conduct electricity and can withstand about 10-15 minutes of 400 degree heat (i.e. metal). I have done a bit of this this with metal parts. not too hard if you have all the equipment.
There are now low temp powders for wood and plastics. You preheat the part to make the powder stick, and then cure the part in an oven. The lowest cure temp I have seen is 250F. I haven't tried this yet, but want to try on MDF (wood), but have't found a supplier for smaller amounts of powder.
At any rate, I would be surprised to find a low temp powder that would work on fiber reinforced nylon (graphite). Especially a thirty year old part that has to maintain its shape and strength. 250 degrees is pretty hot. And don't forget ability to adhere to nylon, durability, UV, and salt spray requirements, offgassing/ moisture content, etc, etc.
But if somebody tries it, please post your results.
-J
Dave, I bet it would look good on MDF.
I actually just got home from installing some Andersen windows, I only use Andesen by the way.
I'm using the ones with a pre finish.
I asked a while back how were they able to powder coat wood, they never gave me details but mentioned the secret was in the primer, enabling them to give the wood a negative charge.
If I remember correctly, they called it fusion.
The finish on those windows is very tough, I've been using them for a while now.
Sorry, we're pulling away from powder coating plastic, but believe this is still interesting
Sal
Hey Sal,
Powder coated wood window frames is pretty swank stuff.
Just spent the evening reading up a bit on the newer powder coating techniques and coating wood and plastic. It's all your fault ;D
Some pretty amazing stuff out there now, but mostly requiring a full-on factory setting. I suspect that if the market was large enough there would eventually be a way to do some of this stuff in a small shop environment- esp dye sublimation (sooo cool). Powder coating of plastic parts is probably something that has to be done when the part is new to get a good finish.
I really want to see if there is a way to powder coat MDF in a small shop. But the last thing I need is another project!
Getting back on topic- FWIW: Personally, I would be nervous about any kind of painting of plastic reel parts. Don't know how good it would look after a bit of use, and the function would be primarily cosmetic. With aluminum parts there are some reasonable choices.
To get off topic again, I don't think there is any reason to be ashamed of honest cosmetic wear on fishing reels, boats or ford trucks. It adds character. Embrace it and your life will be easier. Besides, a poor restoration usually looks worse than the original patina.
However, if it's for business and that's what the customer wants, then good on you for being market savvy and finding a better finish.
-steve
What was the original finish that Newell used on aluminum seats and bars? I'm guessing it was powder, because it looks too thick for anodizing, at least to my inexpert eyes. Thanks.
Mike
The original aluminum parts were anodized then painted with a semi flat black finish that was baked on for a few minutes. If the parts were hard anodized they were too shiny, and were too dull with stage 1 process.
I've found Krylon semi flat black does a very nice job bringing the finish back to original. With no baking needed.
Thanks, RM.
Quote from: reel man on February 03, 2017, 09:23:14 PM
The original aluminum parts were anodized then painted with a semi flat black finish that was baked on for a few minutes. If the parts were hard anodized they were too shiny, and were too dull with stage 1 process.
I've found Krylon semi flat black does a very nice job bringing the finish back to original. With no baking needed.
Hey guys, perhaps you've seen my other thread about the 220-F Blackie I'm cleaning up. I'm thinking of painting the seat and bars to give them some better protection and a nicer look.
It doesn't seem like we have Krylon paint over here. Would something like this work?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-metalshield-300g-satin-black-epoxy-enamel-spray-paint_p1400829
I'd prefer something that doesn't need heating. Is there any way to tell if a paint won't need heating, or how can I tell once I've painted the parts whether they would benefit from some heat?
Thanks.
I was just going to recommend an Epoxy paint, but you have already gone in that direction.
Getting all the old finish off and surface preparation, before painting, should be addressed.
Tight Lines !
If you paint an old reel, it will look like an old reel that someone painted. It has a nice experienced look to it now.
-steve
I have painted several Penn Spinfisher reels with Brownel's Aluma-Hyde. It holds up well in salt water. It is available in flat and semi-gloss black. If should work on Newell parts. It is designed to refinish anodized firearm receivers.
This 710 Greenie was refinished in flat black. The 710Z was done in semi-gloss black.
on a related side-topic.. what about the raised letters and numbers?
Any suggestions on a shiny silver/chrome paint to touch-up the numbers? And likewise, to fill-in the recessed black around it?
Not a huge issue.. just thought of it now while reading this thread.
Thanks..
Those badges will pop out from the side plate. Use black spray paint and let it dry. Stretch some fabric on something flat and put some solvent like lacquer thinner on it and rub the paint off the raised lettering, it won't take off the silver. I used some generic rattle can paint from the big box store. Learned this from Jerry(reelman). Works like a charm. Add a little glue to hold the badge back in, I used some silicone seal so I could get them out again if I wanted. You'll see 2 little "pins" sticking out of the inside the sideplate, push those pins and the badge should pop out.
Quote from: oc1 on August 13, 2019, 07:18:23 PMIt has a nice experienced look to it now.
-steve
Steve,
At least you didn't use the word "patina" . . . LOL !
Tight Lines !