bill karr came by today, we shot the bull for a while and before he left, he had a suggestion. why not have a board where a beginner can ask a quick question. ok, i can do that!!!! admittedly, things have gotten a crowded here. there is a lot of information and i would imagine it can be a little intimidating.
ok, so this is a board for pretty much any question you want to ask, no matter how simple, silly or trivial it might seem. we'll see how this works out!!!! ;D
edit: questions will likely sit here for a while and then get moved if it seems more appropriate for another board.
Perfect !! Finally a section where I'll feel at home. :D :D cause I'll always be a beginner. ;D
Joe, I found the plans for this work bench on line and have been pleased with the layout and the space it affords. It's 6' long, but could easily have been 8; I didn't have that much room. I've taken over my oldest (moved away) daughter's room, and I use her empty bureau drawers for storage. It's working well for me.(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/sdlehr/Work%20Area/DSC_7201.NEF_zpsbzqvdz9p.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/sdlehr/media/Work%20Area/DSC_7201.NEF_zpsbzqvdz9p.jpg.html)
Sid
SE FL
Quote from: sdlehr on January 09, 2016, 10:57:41 PM
Joe, I found the plans for this work bench on line and have been pleased with the layout and the space it affords. It's 6' long, but could easily have been 8; I didn't have that much room. I've taken over my oldest (moved away) daughter's room, and I use her empty bureau drawers for storage. It's working well for me.(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/sdlehr/DSC_7201.NEF_zpsbzqvdz9p.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/sdlehr/media/DSC_7201.NEF_zpsbzqvdz9p.jpg.html)
Sid
SE FL
That's nice Sid. Very functional. The only problem I can see is that your Giants sign should be black and orange ;D
BT
Who Dey! ;D
Nice setup Sid.
Hi,
I would suggest keeping the reel area seperate to rod work, as all the oils and greases never quite get cleaned away from the area, and could get on the rods. Any oils, grease or silicone on your rods will never do well with 2 part resins.
We do rods and reels in the same room, but totaly seperate benches.
Cheers
jeri
If you aren't a die hard woodworker, nightstands and/or short dressers are great to start workbenches. The drawers seem to be just the right size.
Ron
hmmm, just watch. now that we have a board like this, no one is gonna wanna post here..... :-\
Quote from: alantani on January 10, 2016, 08:40:42 PM
hmmm, just watch. now that we have a board like this, no one is gonna wanna post here..... :-\
I wouldn't blame them, when this thing heat up, it will get messy quickly.
I think we have it right now, the new members can easily ask questions about a particular reel they're looking for, or anything else.
This new one will get loaded with different subjects going in all directions.
We have things nicely separated now. I don't believe this one will work....just my opinion.
Sal
I'll give it a try... here's a ? I don't know where it belongs
Is SaltX necessary?
or...
Is a freshwater rinse of rod & reel after the salt boat ride adequate?
Thanks,
Steve
naw, anything is fine! i never use salt away or salt x. just a fresh water rinse and towel dry, then a spritz of corrosion x and good wipe down.
Quote from: Big Tim on January 09, 2016, 11:05:09 PM
That's nice Sid. Very functional. The only problem I can see is that your Giants sign should be black and orange ;D
BT
Tim, (he said, trying not to take offense) a Giants logo would look absolutely ridiculous in black and orange! That logo was from a weave I did on one of my rod builds.
It's a bicycle wrench. Used to get them included in a leather case attached to the saddle.
At least that what it looks like to me.
Terry.
That is, in fact, a bicycle wrench. We used to call them Shimano wrenches. Work for spokes, transmissions and bottom brackets even.
Ron
I have one that is similar but it doesn't have the stepped opening on the right...No idea what it was orginally for...As for the one in your photo, my guess would be it pairs with a musical instrument of some sort?
Hi Guys, new guy question: CorrosionX HD is sold by Okuma as a kit ( oil & Cal's grease ) ($16.00) it seems that the spray can (12oz) @ $15.00 bucks has more bang is there another option?
Steve,
I not only use Salt Away but I swear by it. Not one drop of corrosion on my reels (inside or out) and I never used to oil my reels after a rinse (I started to in the past year) as long as I used salt away. I don't see any difference from before I used oil and now using oil so that will probably go by the wayside. The salt away is the ticket! I don't use the expensive spray bottle, I buy it by the gallon because I use it on my boat after every trip. If you go swimming at the beach, come out of the water and dry off, what happens? The water is gone and you're left with little salt crystals that feel like sand all over your skin. That's the same thing that happens with your line, reel, lures, etc. I attach the mixing nozzle to my hose and GENTLY douse them down with mixed solution that is diluted something like 500:1. I don't use soap on my boat during the season unless I get caked on blood or dry bird dookie. I go through approximately 4 gallons per season, yes I have OCD with more than reels. ;)
PS- Works great on road salt, too because that's what it was originally invented for.
I have zero affiliation with any products I ever mention... if it's good I say it is, if it's bad you'll hear me say even more. ;D
Give it a try,
Dom
Thanks Alan, thanks Dom, (thanks Sal); now I'm totally confused!
Fortunately I am used to it.
I use Salt Away in the condensed form for only one thing and that is to flush the the motor with after I pull the boat out of saltwater when I give it a wash down.
I do the same as Alan for my fishing gear, a good rinse with fresh water of all rods and reels as soon as I get home or if it's late at night the next morning. I also use Corrosion X too but rods and reels get a wipe down about one time a year. This usually happens around this time of year as I get my gear ready for the next season.
I have a question about splicing Powe Pro Ace hollow core braid. One of my crew members does this and I have never learned.
I need to splice 50 to 60lb fluorocarbon into 60lb hollow ace line. What do I need? Are there good videos?
Keith
I'm in need of a Newell 229 F rod clamp. Anyone have one ?
all out here, but someone should have one!
Hi Guys,
Im thinking of ordering a couple of the Truth SM reels to be used in the UK - shore fishing..
Just thinking that there must be a few members on here who own them, just wanting to know the
pros and cons of these reels. All the feedback Im getting in the UK is on the whole pretty good and with a
lifetime warranty.
Appreciate your views on these reels, many thanks in anticipation.
Rgds,
Davey
haven't had a chance to go through any yet. the best thing is to be able to service them yourself. they should be easy enough to go through, so they should work.
Hi Alan,
Thanks for the reply, servicing shouldnt be a problem - they have a service eng in UK
that does all the lifetime warranty.
I just thought you might you might have read some peoples reviews on them and how the
reels performed - and if peeps were happy with them
Rgds
Dave
Hi guys!
I didn't know where or really how to post this somewhere else. I have a Daiwa Exceller 100HSA. The spool has come loose from the shaft inside the spool. I included some pictures of what pieces I'm talking about. Is there a way to fix this or do I have to buy a new spool.
Thanks
Brad
normally these are pressed in. best bet would be to get a new spool, but you might be able to drill and tap a small set screw into the spool to hold the spooll shaft.
true, that......
Howdy all, seems like a nice forum.
Just picked up a new 115L2 and was wondering how to go about getting the 7+1 drags for it?
Thank you,
Russell
Russell,
Send Bryan Young a PM. He is the creator of these.
and Welcome to the site. ;)
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12788.0
Thank you Shark Hunter for the welcome, this is a great place with lots of good info..keep up the good work guys :)
Thanks for your site! I have an old Abu Garcia Ambassador 4600C that makes a soft clicking noise as the reel freespools on a cast. I've done a basic disassemble of the main parts adding a drop of oil on the bearings. I don't see anything amiss. Any ideas?
Nashbill52, one thing I'd check out 'ed be the possibility of the spool edge rubbin on a side plate. Had that issue on an Ambassedur once.
Hi guys, do i need to remove the shields of the spool bearings in a low profile baitcasting reel? Or that's only applicable for conventional type of reel? Thank you
Hi V!
If you are using it in freshwater in a normal fashion I wouldn't bother. when I'm doing maintenance I flood my bearings with Reelex lube and spin them around. I soak up the dirty lube (if I see any), and flip it over and do it again.
I have been fishing saltwater for 30 + years and have never pulled a shield. I don't abuse my reels and always rinse as soon as I get home. I've replaced one bearing in all that time.
If you start having issues maybe then start looking at pulling shields.
Thanks for your advice! Appreaciage it.
I would always remove shields of spool bearings. They sometimes produce friction either directly or via the oil between the shield and balls. Also anything that can get into a bearing can just as easily get out.
Thank you sir for your advise. Appreciate it!
For cast control bearing should i lube it or grease it? Thank you!
Quote from: alantani on January 10, 2016, 08:40:42 PM
hmmm, just watch. now that we have a board like this, no one is gonna wanna post here..... :-\
[Alan, do you have any toutorials about the fathom 40NLD and 30 star drag on this site ? I'm new and have looked around but havent found any.
Thanks,
Bombero/quote]
http://alantani.com/index.php?board=8.0
Quote from: Vjtrey1 on August 10, 2016, 04:59:40 PM
For cast control bearing should i lube it or grease it? Thank you!
If you can't control your casts, grease it, if you want max distance and have good control of your casts oil it.
I am a newbie here and I hope I'm posting in the right area. First of all, thanks for letting me join in. :) I've been fishing since I was a kid mostly light tackle and open faced reels. I've recently started adventuring into fly fishing (which is as challenging as it is exciting) I've also taken an interest in bait casters and heavier tackle. I happened across a newell G229-f reel and purchased it. Oh yes, forgot to mention in a lefty. So, the reel is right hand retrieve. I just assumed it would be easy to switch if I didn't just get use to the right side. Anyhow it does not work for me. So my question is, can it be converted, and If so... is it worth it? Thanks in advance for reading my rambling.
Welcome aboard Rossta. I'm sure someone here would be interested in that reel...maybe a nice trade might happen...just give it a few days for all to see. 8)
Rossta; "Oh yes, forgot to mention in a lefty". Are you sayin that you are a lefty, or that the reel's a left-hander's(usin it you'ed crank with your left hand, with the reel facing up).
Gfish
Quote from: alantani on January 09, 2016, 10:07:19 PM
bill karr came by today, we shot the bull for a while and before he left, he had a suggestion. why not have a board where a beginner can ask a quick question. ok, i can do that!!!! admittedly, things have gotten a crowded here. there is a lot of information and i would imagine it can be a little intimidating.
ok, so this is a board for pretty much any question you want to ask, no matter how simple, silly or trivial it might seem. we'll see how this works out!!!! ;D
edit: questions will likely sit here for a while and then get moved if it seems more appropriate for another board.
Hello Alan
Just joined your board.
My motive is to after seeing your skills for a long time particularly on the ifish/salty dog board i would like to send you some reals for maintence /repairs. How do I go about sending you reels to work on? I'm sure I have overlooked it here somewhere.
Thanks
Brad
hi, brad! welcome!!!!! i'll send you an email. thanks!!!!
I'm brand new to your board & kinda overwhelmed with all the great topics & information, but so glad I stumbled onto your board. I am a veteran fisherman (45 + years), but a complete rookie at reel repair, mainly because I moved to a part of the country that does not have a reel repair shop on every corner. Plus, I want to learn how to diagnose & repair reels - been messing around with an old reel or two & it's fun! I am currently working on an Ambassadeur 6600 D5 for a friend (he was gonna throw it away - seeing all the broken plastic gears & other plastic parts, I don't blame him, but I wanted it to practice on). Question: I am attempting to get to the drag washers, but cannot get the sleeve removed (above/outside of the main gear). Is there a trick to it?
welcome! there should be a c-clip on top. if it's been removed and is still stuck, then it might just be rusted stuck. :-\
Thanks Alan. It must be rusted then, it will not break loose :P. I'll get 'er loose somehow. I really appreciate your site & look forward to learning from you & the folks who post information.
Dennis
It was not rusted....just stuck REAL good, but got 'er done. Another question for you Alan....do you recommend grease on the drag washers? Keep in mind I am a freshwater fisherman (bass, crappie, bream, etc), so I don't see the necessity of upgrading the washers to carbon, & drag has never been a problem (have landed multiple 10lb.+ bass). If you do recommend grease for the drag washers, what kind? I have ordered grease & oil for the other parts of the reel (Quantum Hot Sauce).
Again, thank you for this forum....because I fish freshwater, a lot of the topics (big reels) may not apply to me, but there is so much great general information to absorb & I am having a great time learning from your forum.
If the drags are not carbon fiber run them dry. Only CF drags get greased. Rudy
Thank you Rudy....appreciate it.
Quote from: FishDad on February 15, 2017, 07:42:17 PM
Again, thank you for this forum....because I fish freshwater, a lot of the topics (big reels) may not apply to me, but there is so much great general information to absorb & I am having a great time learning from your forum.
I too fish freshwater...but you'll be surprised how many of these topics can be applied to freshwater fishing. I think freshwater folks have been spoiled by the advantage of not needing so much reel maintenance...never needing to flush and clean their reels after every use...that we forget how much better a reel feels when properly serviced. There are tons of info for freshwater reels in the archives here...like the Abu Garcia forum...and the spinning reel forum is loaded with info too. Welcome and good luck with your endeavors! 8)
Does any one know where I can get new cross bars and a reel seat for my Delmar here in Australia as they are pitted due to neglect. Re-chroming is to expensive.
Hi Soren,
I usually get new Penn parts from mysticparts.com in the US - Maureen (mizmo67) is a member and has a board here http://alantani.com/index.php?board=117.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?board=117.0)
The postage bites a bit, particularly with small orders, it helps if you can spread it over a larger order.
I've got a reasonable looking set of seat and posts for a working reel you can have if you don't need collector grade.
Mike
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Thank you for your reply mhc. I think I will check the new stuff first. Mine are too bad but I would like the new because it will never be used. I do have the box etc with it but in bad condition.
Soren
New member from Key Largo
Over the Holiday weekend I fished with somebody who had Alan's handles on TDL 25s. They were a huge improvement over the stock handle. Are the handles still available?
got a bunch! send me a pm with your address and i'll get some out to you!
Hi Alan, Where can I buy reel parts?
For what type of reel?
New to this board and in looking for things I dont seem to get any pictures just a notice that says PLEASE UPDATE YOUR ACCOUNT TO ENABLE 3RD PARTY HOSTING with something about photobucket.com...
Do I have to sign up for this or why arent I getting images and getting this photobucket thing??? Many thanks for info...
Photobucket started charging people to use their site to host pictures in sites like this.
The person who uploaded the pics has to pay....most people are not going to do it as PB whats a high hosting fee.
There are a lot of photos down atm. Some posters are slowly updating their hosting to AlanTani.com or other pic sites and fixing the links to their pics...but there are 50,000+ links to fix, so it's going to take time. Some folks may not even be active right now so inactive ones might not get fixed.
There are several threads about it here in the forum troubleshooting section:
http://alantani.com/index.php?board=114.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?board=114.0)
Quote from: sdlehr on January 09, 2016, 10:57:41 PM
Joe, I found the plans for this work bench on line and have been pleased with the layout and the space it affords. It's 6' long, but could easily have been 8; I didn't have that much room. I've taken over my oldest (moved away) daughter's room, and I use her empty bureau drawers for storage. It's working well for me.(http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah127/sdlehr/Work%20Area/DSC_7201.NEF_zpsbzqvdz9p.jpg) (http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/sdlehr/media/Work%20Area/DSC_7201.NEF_zpsbzqvdz9p.jpg.html)
Sid
SE FL
Sid,
Since Photobucket has chosen to go down the path they have, your photo is no longer visible.
Do you have a Link for those plans you found online ?
Tight Lines !
Thanks to all who post here and Alan's tutorial I was able to service my
first reel a Penn 704z. Which is working fine even after I took it apart, cleaned,
greased, and put it back together. Which isn't always the case when I touch
things. Since this went so well I would like to try serving other spinning and
conventional reels.
My question is what parts do you oil and what gets grease?
Do I go at every reel like I did with the 704 and give everything
a light coat of grease and oil for the springs and for
conventional reels oil for where the spool sits whether it rests
on bushing or bearings.
Thanks for the help
Congrats on the successful service job ! As to the "grease / oil" thing....you'll get lots of opinions, I;m sure........some times , the WAY you use it...or WHERE you use it, will dictate that you use a different form of lubricant than what would normally be used...but I always start with...if it slides...grease it, and if it rolls...oil it. Gear teeth actually "slide" together as the mesh together...so I use grease.....bearings...either ball, or bushings...get oil
It depends on the viscosity of the grease one uses, IMO. I grease just about all interior moving parts other than bail springs and line rollers and add a drop or two of light synthetic oil to areas that work better with thinner grease. Oh, and BTW, IMO the grease should be synthetic, too. I use Super Lube because I fish fresh water. Salt water should have blue marine grease. Penn, Yamaha, Lubrimatic & Mystic are all adequate marine greases in my book.
Hi! I'm a newbie with a problem with my Avet exw50. This all started after removing the old braid on the spool, I never got to put new braid because of the clanking produced when I put it in strike position. Please help! Thank you. I'll try to add a video to better describe the problem?
Any number of possibilities. Does your clicker work?
Quote from: Flint on October 10, 2017, 09:20:33 PM
Thanks to all who post here and Alan's tutorial I was able to service my
first reel a Penn 704z. Which is working fine even after I took it apart, cleaned,
greased, and put it back together. Which isn't always the case when I touch
things. Since this went so well I would like to try serving other spinning and
conventional reels.
And so, it begins . . .
Tight Lines !
Thanks for the reply Alan, yes the clicker works- but it's abnormal sounding- loud and doesn't sound like the usual normal click. I'm still trying to convert the video (.mov) I took to attach here.
gonna have to pop it open.....
Hi Alan,
I plan to open up the reel this weekend and use one of your threads as guide. The reel looks like the EXW80 reel that you have in one of the threads. I'll also upload a short video i have showing the problematic reel. Thanks
Quote from: ompetv on October 30, 2017, 01:03:46 PM
Hi Alan,
I plan to open up the reel this weekend and use one of your threads as guide. The reel looks like the EXW80 reel that you have in one of the threads. I'll also upload a short video i have showing the problematic reel. Thanks
When you open it up, take photo's at every step . . . It can be very helpful for re-assembly !
Tight Lines !
Thanks for the tip Dave! I'll do that.
ah, what you are hearing is normal. the clicker is working properly and that ratcheting sound when you crank in gear is just the spring loaded anti-reverse dogs. you're good to go!
Oh! This reel did not sound this way before. Anyways, I'll take your advise and load it this weekend and put it to the test. Thank you.
it's loud, i admit, but that does sound normal...... :-\
It will be quieter once you have line on it again. You are hearing the clicker resonating in the empty spool.
Quote from: RowdyW on October 31, 2017, 12:37:03 AM
It will be quieter once you have line on it again. You are hearing the clicker resonating in the empty spool.
good point, actually. hadn't thought about that! i was wondering why it was so noisy.
Makes sense! Thanks Alan! Thanks Rowdy, I really appreciate all the advise!
hi Alan!
I spooled my reel- the loud sound is gone. You and Rowdy were right! Thank you to you!
i picked up this rod the other day has aftco on it just wondered what year it was and what it is worth. like to know all info i can get thanks.
maybe post this on the rod board.
Quote from: coronasagelake on November 03, 2017, 01:54:29 AM
i picked up this rod the other day has aftco on it just wondered what year it was and what it is worth. like to know all info i can get thanks.
The rod blank appears to be a Harnell.
The guides look like Mildrum roller guides.
The aluminum rod butt is Aftco.
The Rod tip appears to be Aftco, but is hard to tell in the pic.
Are there any markings on the rod blank ?
The attached data may help to identify the rod blank . . .
Tight Lines !
It looks like a Magnuflex to me because of the cork grip, they made rods with similar colors to Harnell.
Take the reel off and read the reel seat stamp. Probably a Varmac seat.
(usually) Varmac RS-5H = 80lb class. RS6H = 130lb class
Also see if the tip has the size number stamped in the side.
what year was it made is it worth anything
You sound kinda rude. Dave went out of his way to answer with pics. The words "thank you" go a long way with me. Others might not care.
Not very old maybe 60's. Not worth a lot maybe a $100 if you can find someone who really wants it. I'm thinking the aftco butt was added later
Quote from: 1badf350 on November 03, 2017, 02:01:10 PM
It looks like a Magnuflex to me because of the cork grip, they made rods with similar colors to Harnell.
Take the reel off and read the reel seat stamp. Probably a Varmac seat.
(usually) Varmac RS-5H = 80lb class. RS6H = 130lb class
Also see if the tip has the size number stamped in the side.
Agreed that Magnuflex is another possibility. Most Harnell's had that White, rubber-like, fore-grip on them.
Also, agreed that the seat may be a Varmac or, possibly, a Lakeland.
I see the forward brace on the reel, probably a Penn 115 9/0 Senator. A "Tuna Block" is under the brace. So, either the Tuna Block is bonded to the blank it's part of the reel seat, which would the upper section removable by loosening a knurled ring ( possibly just visible in fore-grip pic ).
If it is a Harnell blank it should be one of three models - 522, 523, or 575 . . . If it does have a detachable butt, the blank would have been shortened. So, the length specs in the charts won't be helpful.
I'm getting a "feeling" that this rod may not be in it's "original configuration" because :
(1) The Mildrum guides suggest the 1960's to mid-1970's.
(2) The rod blank suggests the same time frame.
(3) The Cork fore-grip is, also, very 1960's.
(4) The "Aftco" rod tip was likely changed from the original Mildrum unit.
(5) The Aftco aluminum Rod Butt, however, is the "fly in the ointment", so to speak. I would have expected to see a hardwood butt on this rod. I suspect that the original wooden butt may have been removed and exchanged, at some point.
I "surmise" that the Cork fore-grip was not changed out for a different, more durable material, because the guides would have to have been removed and the rod re-wrapped.
Tight Lines !
Quote from: Swami805 on November 03, 2017, 03:22:30 PM
Not very old maybe 60's. Not worth a lot maybe a $100 if you can find someone who really wants it. I'm thinking the aftco butt was added later
Two minds with the same thoughts . . . LOL !
I was typing, while you were posting.
Tight Lines !
Quote from: 1badf350 on November 03, 2017, 02:51:25 PM
You sound pretty rude so I'm done trying to help you. Dave went out of his way to answer with pics. The words "thank you" go a long way with me. Others might not care.
I just chalk it up to his being a new member, only his 2nd post.
Tight Lines !
Quote from: ez2cdave on October 30, 2017, 03:45:30 PM
Quote from: ompetv on October 30, 2017, 01:03:46 PM
Hi Alan,
I plan to open up the reel this weekend and use one of your threads as guide. The reel looks like the EXW80 reel that you have in one of the threads. I'll also upload a short video i have showing the problematic reel. Thanks
When you open it up, take photo's at every step . . . It can be very helpful for re-assembly !
Tight Lines !
This is so serious. I really have thought about using my gopro headband for doing every new reel.
Quote from: ez2cdave on November 03, 2017, 03:59:08 PM
Quote from: 1badf350 on November 03, 2017, 02:51:25 PM
You sound pretty rude so I'm done trying to help you. Dave went out of his way to answer with pics. The words "thank you" go a long way with me. Others might not care.
I just chalk it up to his being a new member, only his 2nd post.
Tight Lines !
I just realized those mildrums are top mount, not side mount.
Quote from: 1badf350 on November 03, 2017, 06:23:44 PM
Quote from: ez2cdave on November 03, 2017, 03:59:08 PM
Quote from: 1badf350 on November 03, 2017, 02:51:25 PM
You sound pretty rude so I'm done trying to help you. Dave went out of his way to answer with pics. The words "thank you" go a long way with me. Others might not care.
I just chalk it up to his being a new member, only his 2nd post.
Tight Lines !
I just realized those mildrums are top mount, not side mount.
Yeah, those are the two-legged version and not the four-legged version.
I have that stripper guide in my hand, used, but clean, if anybody needs one !
Tight Lines !
Can you repair a 12/0 Fin Nor classic with the carbon fiber drag. I replaced the bearings and re assembled it.
Now it will not crank or go into free spool.. I'm hoping it's a simple fix. I have the schematics and some parts, it works
fine before I messed with it.. David Connors worked on it prior; however, I can not get in touch with him. He had replaced and did all servicing and had the parts.
Thanks Capt Benjie Stansky
Sea Note Charters
311 Ocean Acres Dr
Kill Devil Hills NC 27948
252 489 0119
seanote@charter.net
many of the guys here can do work at this level. it would involve chiseling off the cork material off of the drive plate, then using epoxy to glue on a carbon fiber drag washer. the hard part is getting the spacing right. the cork is thicker than the carbon fiber. sometimes another stainless steel plate works, sometimes doubling up on the carbon fiber works as well. i will not have time for another month, but we have guys here that have worked on these plenty of times before. hopefully one of them will chime in!
Quote from: seanote on December 29, 2017, 07:41:22 PM
Can you repair a 12/0 Fin Nor classic with the carbon fiber drag. I replaced the bearings and re assembled it.
Now it will not crank or go into free spool.. I'm hoping it's a simple fix. I have the schematics and some parts, it works
fine before I messed with it.. David Connors worked on it prior; however, I can not get in touch with him. He had replaced and did all servicing and had the parts.
Thanks Capt Benjie Stansky
Sea Note Charters
311 Ocean Acres Dr
Kill Devil Hills NC 27948
252 489 0119
seanote@charter.net
Hi, Capt !
I am no expert on Fin-Nor's, but I do have an "idea" . . .
Try backing the Drag off, all the way . . . Then, back the Pre-Set drag knob off, all the way . . . Hold the spool and turn the handle ( If you hear any "grinding" or "scraping" sounds, STOP ) . . .
If nothing "bad" happened . . . Turn the handle, while rotating the spool in both directions . . . Leave the Preset Drag at Zero and tighten the Main Drag, while turning the handle . . . Increase the Pre-Set drag, incrementally . . .
If all goes well, you should be smiling . . . If not, you'll need a "guru" - LOL !
Good Luck & Tight Lines !
Quote from: seanote on December 29, 2017, 07:41:22 PM
Can you repair a 12/0 Fin Nor classic with the carbon fiber drag. I replaced the bearings and re assembled it.
Now it will not crank or go into free spool.. I'm hoping it's a simple fix. I have the schematics and some parts, it works
fine before I messed with it..
sorry, i'm so bleary eyed here that i missed the questions completely. do you have one of these?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/22/1_29_12_17_3_10_52_229281475.jpeg)
This part
Quote from: seanote on December 29, 2017, 07:41:22 PM
....it works fine before I messed with it....
Well then, if it worked before, then it likely still does. You might've just missed something upon reassembly. No big deal. Just go back and do it again; you'll figure it out.
.
I am servicing a Daiwa Lexa 300HL right now.
http://www.daiwa.com/us/service/manuals/image/baitcasting/LEXA300HL_300HSL_300HSL-P.pdf (http://www.daiwa.com/us/service/manuals/image/baitcasting/LEXA300HL_300HSL_300HSL-P.pdf)
https://www.bocabearings.com/products/fr-243c-os-ld-23707?make=DAIWA&model=LEXA+300HL(COMPLETE)&feature=BAITCASTER (https://www.bocabearings.com/products/fr-243c-os-ld-23707?make=DAIWA&model=LEXA+300HL(COMPLETE)&feature=BAITCASTER)
The boca bearing replacement kit for this reel lists 7 total bearings for replacement. According to schematics these should correspond:
#13 - spool bearing (magnetic side plate) (3x8x4)
#17 - spool bearing (behind pin) (5x11x4)
#52 - drive shaft bearing (under shaft) (5x9x3)
#66 - handle assembly bearing (over clicker cap) (8x14x4)
#73 - handle paddles (2x bearings) (4x7x2.5)
There is one more 3x8x4 bearing they include which I can't figure out where this is supposed to go. Is it a replacement for pinion bushing #35? Daiwa themselves lists this reel as having "seven ball bearings, including 2 CRBB" so I'm thinking not but can't find the actual location.
edit: do they count the ARB as one of those? Not really a "ball" bearing right?
OK new here
Thank you for help pimp a Shimano charter special
I kayak the central coast and really abuse the gear with salt and sand / bad surf landing's
can you recommend a good real, small side, lever drag for ground fish and lings
the shimano triton 100G!
Still feeling my way around this board. I have gotten parts from Andy Copenhaver of Tuna's Reel Troubles and Smooth Drag. Where else are the go to source for parts? Keep in mind I am mostly working on Great Lakes trolling reels and other fresh water mid-west fishing reels.
Thank you,
Chris
depends on the reel. check out ebay but don't expect a price break. manufacturers are usually your best bet.
Thank you Alan.
I have been looking every where for the 10x12x0.4mm washer you use in the TLD 20/25 video upgrade. I have found everything else. Do you know where I can find the washer? I have 6 TLD25 and 2 TLD20. The places I have found state they will have to machine them and will be around $130 for a minimum of 100 washers when all I need is 16.
Alan Tani has them made also. Ask him if he can sell you some.
Keith
I am going on my first 3 day long range trip out of San Diego in August and i would like to setup a 50# setup. I am looking at 2 reels, the Penn Fathom 40 2 speed or the Penn International 12VISX 2 speed. I am also open to other reels in this size and class. I was going to to put 65# braid and 50# top shot. I have a Seeker 670H (rated30-80#) I will be using with this setup.
Opinions will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you Mike
I use a Fathom 40NLD2 for 60 lb but it will handle 50 lb fine. If you are not going to exceed 50 lb topshots on that reel I'd look at the 25NLD2 size, it will fish 40-50 fine. But for 50-60 and could to 80 lb in a pinch I like the 40NLD2. Since braid backing I see no need for you to go with wider reels.
The rod you have is great for 50 lb, oh and welcome to the AT site.
For 50#, I'd go with the Fth40nld2 over the Int12visx. The Fathom would be good for yoyo/bombs as well as live bait. It's just a more versatile tool. For 50#, I use an Avet JX Raptor and a Daiwa Saltiga 40ld2, both with 400yds of 65# spectra and a 50# topshot. The Talica 12 is that same size too.
Quote from: SoCalAngler on February 11, 2019, 05:42:29 PM
I use a Fathom 40NLD2 for 60 lb but it will handle 50 lb fine. If you are not going to exceed 50 lb topshots on that reel I'd look at the 25NLD2 size, it will fish 40-50 fine. But for 50-60 and could to 80 lb in a pinch I like the 40NLD2. Since braid backing I see no need for you to go with wider reels.
The rod you have is great for 50 lb, oh and welcome to the AT site.
Thank you,
Quote from: MarkT on February 11, 2019, 07:11:00 PM
For 50#, I'd go with the Fth40nld2 over the Int12visx. The Fathom would be good for yoyo/bombs as well as live bait. It's just a more versatile tool. For 50#, I use an Avet JX Raptor and a Daiwa Saltiga 40ld2, both with 400yds of 65# spectra and a 50# topshot. The Talica 12 is that same size too.
Thank you
Mark,
Just wondering why you would say to go with a 40NLD2 over a sized reel you like? The 25NLD2 is right around the size of the Jx Raptor and IMO a much more comfortable reel to fish than the 40N for yoyo and bait with 50lb toppers.
I fish a standard JX two speed for 40 lb and like you said a Raptor would be better for 50 lb test. But, the 40NLD2 is a much bigger reel in over all size than the 25NLD2 and JX Raptor.
I know this is about what feels right to the owner but the 25N gets more than enough drag and has the cranking power to handle 50 lb no problem. So why do you like the larger reel? Just curious here.
Hello all and thank you Alan for providing such a great resource.
I'm posting here for the first time just to find my way around the system and hoping someone can tell me what I have.
I've always been fascinated by accuplated reels and bought one on eeb a little while ago.They are exceptionally thin on the ground in my parts and no one nearby really knows anything about them other than that they exist.. I've asked for some help in other places but again not much luck so far. I purchased a jigmaster. The reel has accuplates and accuframe ...it works, is in very good condition, however, anything but "accurate". I'm most disappointed with the spool . I think it is an accurate spool, maybe tiburon, may be even a red Penn spool...I've not had enough contact with these to tell.
The problem is that the spool seems just a touch small in all dimensions. The build quality is astounding, but thats where it ends. The bearings are screwed all the way in on both sides but there is still about 1/16"to 1/8" sideways slop meaning that the spool rattles when the reel is moved side to side and you could imagine the problem on casting. The axle just seems too short. Furthermore, the spool to frame gap easily eats 45 lb mono. I was always under the impression that a properly set up accuplated reel just doesn't do this even with 15lb mono.
I've thought about shimmying the bearings, but it seems a specially designed bearing puller is required. That may not stop the line eating although it couldn't make it worse. The line may be finding it's way merely because the spool is shifting and creating an opening.
Have I just got the wrong spool for this reel, or is this how they start off before a whole pile of serious tweaking? Is it possible to simplify a tweak and insert a couple of Teflon , bronze or brass spacers the diameter of the axle into the bearings without removing them from the cap in order to obtain lateral adjustment?
Hope someone can shed light on it for me... 4 pics attached
The easy way is to shim it but those bearing can be hard to get out. I can see a "dimple" in the picture of the bearing cup next to the edge of the bearing, I've had accurates with those and they can be a bear to get out. That "dimple" seems to hold them in. Search around on here for different methods of getting out stuck bearings, I don't know how to post a link. A small screw driver with a bent tip like a mini crowbar is helpful but I've ruined a few on those accurate bearings like that. Wouldn't be a bad idea to pull the bearings and clean them out for better performance anyway.
Oh and Welcome
Thank you Swami.
I've actually purchased a used accuplate bearing in a cup to practice with that removal tool on this particular setup. I know it works fine with many other reels I have serviced....somehow I don't like my chances of getting the bearing out without destroying it because of that dimple. I'm also wondering whether putting in a number of shims to the near full diameter if the cup to make up for this large amount of slop won't mean that the bearing will sit way too proud and interfere with, say the clicker gear.....that's why I was thinking if a "bullet into each bearing..... .but as you say, sooner or later the bearing will need to come out of the cup.
this is just wrong, all the way around. honestly, the first thing i'd do is find another jigmaster spool to see if the problem is the frame or the spool. there is no way that this can be correct. :-\
I'm with Alan on this. I suspect that you have a wrong spool. There should not be a gap that eats line. I checked your profile to see where you are located. It was blank. Put in a location so that someone nearby may be able to help. Dominick
That red spool is a Penn spool.... Accurate never made a jigmaster 500 spool. I'd try a different spool as already suggested by the boss and his wing man
Also check the handle side bearing cup to make sure it cannot be screwed farther in. Those bearing cups are famous for being very tough to turn the last couple threads
Ted
Yes thanks all ... I've been in the process of trying to get my hands on a jigmaster spool. (I dumbly sold off all my senators, jig masters squidders surf masters etc years ago when support for them here became non existent). If it fits I'll get a new Chinese made jig master and use that aluminium spool....assuming the old and new spools are interchangeable. . Why is this a little bit less straightforward than you might think? You can find me by going to Key West. Then head south about 4500 miles, turn left and go another 7000 miles. When you hit the Whitsunday islands you'll find a number of accurate enthusiasts...unfotunately that number is "1".
I sold off my older penns because they are no longer supported in Australia....Chinese jig masters aren't even sold here. If I want one, I have to import it from New Zealand. Tiburon doesn't deal with anyone outside of the States.....I know...you ask why did I buy the accurate? Curiosity and appreciation of fine engineering. I'm still determined to sort this out...
Should an aluminium spool out of a Chinese 500l fit an accurate frame by the way?
I've got a couple of black 500 spools I don't need - send me a PM with your name and address and I'll send one up (from around 250 miles south and 100 miles east of the Whitsundays).
Mike
Great folks on Alan's site, Antipodean —
As for Tiburon Parts — spools, frames, etc. —
"Tiburon doesn't deal with anyone outside of the States..."
Randy, on our site, owner of Vintage Offshore Tackle — is our distributor for Tiburon. Just let him know what you want, he will provide a quick availability and answer — and has no issues shipping to Australia at the lowest cost possible. He works very closely with Tib — and has some amazing and impressive products and availability.
Best,
Fred
WOW..great folks indeed!
Thank you, Mike. I didn't realise I was not the only one on this site who had a great view of the edge if the earth.
I've one more option left that I will explore after easter to get my hands on a 500 spool to try. If that local solution doesn't work I will very thankfully accept your offer.
Thanks Fred. I'll see how this pans out and make sure a standard 500 spool fits before I look at a tib.
That'll certainly be a welcome option having seen the statement on tiburons site that they only post to a US Address.
And Ted, I've tried the right side thread, but didn't use any pressure. Don't have the reel with me but I'll look at that again later... that'd be nice if it solved the problem. ..thanks for the tip.
Yes Randy, is very good to deal with, his word is good , & his prices are medium to low, good Man, cheers Don.
Sssssup! Antipodean. Welcome to the site.
Agree with Maxed Out(Ted), I have 2 red aluminium spools from Penn that look exactly like yours, especially with that c-clip lookin part on the head-plate side shaft.
Love those Accuplates n' frames, but don't have a regular Accurate/500 to test my 2-spools on (only got the JM 500 magnum and the extra wide JM 500).
Hello G fish
Are you saying that it will do me no good to purchase a Chinese jig master for the spool?
Regards
Noel
I am new to this site and to reel repair. Having looked around the site and read many posts, I am enthusiastic about getting started with servicing my reels as it seems that there will be expert help available for the inevitable rookie mistakes. Thank you in advance!
I have a new Torium 20 still in the box. What are the most important things I should do to this reel before introducing it to salt water? It appears from other posts that replacing the drag washers with Carbonex washers is a good upgrade. Would you replace the washers before using the reel for the first time? Aside from Corrosion X, Cal's dray grease and Yamaha Blue grease and standard tools, are there parts or tools that I should have on hand before opening a reel for the first time?
There probably is a thread for this question, but I couldn't find it. It seems most of the threads I came across have to do with repair of reels that already have issues or corrosion damage. Thanks for your help!
My search-fu is broken, otherwise I would be providing a link to a thread Alan did o this. Basically, you need to grease everything according to any of Alan's tutorials, expecially the screws, and swap out CF washers if they aren't there. Then fish the reel as much as possible to see if there is anything you want to change. You can spend a lt of money buying parts for a reel that end up not being what you are looking for.
Welcome aboard.
Ron Jones
Welcome. Go here. https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=301.0 Dominick
Quote from: Antipodean on April 18, 2019, 08:49:29 AM
Hello G fish
Are you saying that it will do me no good to purchase a Chinese jig master for the spool?
Regards
Noel
Sorry for the incomeplete thought/post. You probably have an aluminium JM 500 spool. The shaft ends are designed for bushings. The spool designed for ballbearing model Jig Master model(HS)has longer shafts. I think Allen, Dominick and Ted are right though, you probably need a diffrent spool. Edit: the standard 500 spool works in bushing model Jig Masters, Accuplates with ballbearings and Cortez Classic JM 500 reels, but not in the 505/506 HS Jig Masters.
I have looked closely at the Penn HS 505/506 Jig Master(ballbearing) vs the 500(bushing) spools, and there is an incompatible diffrence between them based on shaft lengths.
Now you've got me interested to find out about the diffrences between the Accurate and Penn spool shafts. Stand by... I know that my Accurate 500 Mag. has an Accurate spool in it, and the extra-wide Super Jig Master has a Tiburon spool paired with standard 500-Accuplates...
Quote from: salmonbelly on April 29, 2019, 02:04:47 PM
I am new to this site and to reel repair. Having looked around the site and read many posts, I am enthusiastic about getting started with servicing my reels as it seems that there will be expert help available for the inevitable rookie mistakes. Thank you in advance!
I have a new Torium 20 still in the box. What are the most important things I should do to this reel before introducing it to salt water? It appears from other posts that replacing the drag washers with Carbonex washers is a good upgrade. Would you replace the washers before using the reel for the first time? Aside from Corrosion X, Cal's dray grease and Yamaha Blue grease and standard tools, are there parts or tools that I should have on hand before opening a reel for the first time?
There probably is a thread for this question, but I couldn't find it. It seems most of the threads I came across have to do with repair of reels that already have issues or corrosion damage. Thanks for your help!
you likely have the A-series. i think the drag washers are already greased carbon fiber. for now, back out each exposed screw, one at a time, grease them and replace them. servicing the reel is very tedious. it's straight in, straight out, but there are alot of parts that have to be kept in order.
I'm not sure about that. Tom's sideplates all have bearings, and a bunch of them are for bearing reels. I'm relatively certain you can use a 500 spool with Accuplates, assuming their not Magnum plates, of course.
Ron Jones
Thanks Ron, I'll check it out. My Tom's reels(Cortez Classics) were kits with the spools, and one I put a Tiburon spool in...
Alan,
Thank you so much for the advice. While I want to protect my reel from saltwater damage, I wasn't sure I wanted to take apart the whole reel unless you thought that was advisable/necessary right out of the box. As I understand your suggestion, carefully remove and grease all the exposed screws and leave it at that for now. Then considered fully servicing the reel at the end of the season?
How do I tell if it's a "series A" reel?
Thanks again for your advice!
Aaa...HA!...GFISH. ..you are on the money.
I just now received a mint jig master 500l Chinese made reel that I found in the bay and tried it on the accuplates. Problem solved...plenty of lateral adjustment , AND the shoulder profile is far far more favourable. Haven't tried it in real life yet, but the frame to spool tolerances look good enough to handle 25lb or 30 lb mono....I'm a happy camper. This is now a beautiful reel after luckily, the simplest of fixes. I see why these have a cult following. Beautifully sturdy US engineering and the precursor to so many modern classics.
The bonus is that the donor reel accepts the red spool and is fully functional.
So, lessons from this exercise?..1. Red penn 500 spools don't fit accuframes. 2. People on this site are the cream of the fishing fraterity. I appreciate everyone's help and hope that I can also be a future valued contributor.
Noel.
Cool!
Only some of my info. was inaccurate. I tested a red aluminium Penn spool, Tiburon spool, chromed brass Penn spool and one from a C.C. kit. Mix & matching with 3 diffrent reels, including two with ballbearings and one with bushings, and everything fit with everything else!, including on an Accuplates/Tib. frame reel!?!.
Also, I mentioned a possible need for a 500 Accurate spool. Ted stated that there isn't an Accurate 500 spool which is probably true, but I would never have guessed that.
Could your red al. penn spool have been damaged???
The red spool looks completely iintact, undamaged and unmodified. I was at one time wondering if it was a spool meant for a Penn 500.
What really surprised me is that the red spool works well in the 500L...the frame/spool gap even looks acceptable even though it was completely unacceptable on the accuframes. I can only wish I could "go figure". The only difference is that the Axle length on the red spool is about 1/8" shorter than the black. But there is enough adjustment on the 500L spool bearings to make it work. It could well be that for some reason a previous owner shortened the axle on that spool.
I'm thinking your anniversary spool is on the shorter side of tolerance, just short enough to not wotk in the accuplates.
Weird.
The Man
I have a Red spool in my 500 with Accurate frame and side plates also it has the Bearing adjuster that Tom made,no problems at all spins true and like a top.
joel8080
Hi, friends! Is there a tutorial for magging a Penn star drag reel? I want to mag my Jigmaster 500.
Thanks!
i've never magged anything, so i wouldn't know, but many guys here have done so. if you go back to the front page and type in "magging" into the search bar, a bunch of posts come up. hope this helps a little. alan
Quote from: Sharky McCatcher on May 19, 2019, 01:54:59 PM
Hi, friends! Is there a tutorial for magging a Penn star drag reel? I want to mag my Jigmaster 500.
Thanks!
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15915.0 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=15915.0)
https://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17731.0 (https://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=17731.0)
http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=107286&forum_id=62 (http://www.sealine.co.za/view_topic.php?id=107286&forum_id=62)Tight Lines !
Hello how do I contact Alan and the guys about servicing and upgrading some reels?
I have a penn 500 jigmaster, With an after market aluminum frame and side plates on it. I don't like the range of Drag I'm getting out of it, would a belvider (sp) washer or two under the star adjuster get a more subtle range of drag pressure out of it? It seems to go from barely any drag pressure to almost to much very quickly when I turn the star adjuster. Thoughts anyone?
Thanks.
First thing that comes to mind is your spacer sleeve.
It might be a little long, you could order a shorter one from mysticreelparts.com
Or you could sand it down a little.
At times it could also be crossed threads on the star, but I would start with the spacer sleeve.
Quote from: Phishface on July 30, 2019, 01:21:40 AM
I have a penn 500 jigmaster, With an after market aluminum frame and side plates on it. I don't like the range of Drag I'm getting out of it, would a belvider (sp) washer or two under the star adjuster get a more subtle range of drag pressure out of it? It seems to go from barely any drag pressure to almost to much very quickly when I turn the star adjuster. Thoughts anyone?
Thanks.
I personally would switch out the gear sleeve and Star with parts from the Penn 505 or 506. The gear sleeve threads are finer for a more subtle adjustment.
Do you have a wavy washer on top of the drag stack? If so is it a new one or a almost flatened out old one? The wavy washers tend to make the adjustment more gradual. Multible stacked wavy washers on top of each other tend to bring the pressure on quicker.
I have a penn 200A reel I was wondering if it could be a African import reel?
Cool! It sure appears to be another export reel...first time I've seen the "A" slapped on a Surfy...great find! 8)
What MO said.
Thanks for sharing !!
Regards
AC49
Good find ! That's gotta be a pretty rare bird !
I just inherited a few DAM Quick reels from my dad, one of which is a Microlite 265.
Everything looks great, even the original box with owners manual and a little bottle of oil and a few spare parts.
The only issue is the anti-reverse lever is loose/wobbly and I can see the fine threads are stripped so the 5mm nut can't get a good grip.
Also the "drag spring" looks bent. I think the threaded piece is called the "eccentric bolt".
The part numbers in the manual are 265-34 for the drag spring and 265-38 for the bolt.
Are these parts available anywhere? I'd love to be able to use these reels if possible.
The Microlite was on a Fenwick 5'6" Ferralite rod, there is also a Quick 220 on a Fenwick 6 1/2' Ferralite,
and a Quick Finnessa on a Fenwick 8 1/2' ferralite steelhead pole that looks unused.
The two larger reels are in great shape, but the Microlite needs attention.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Welcome. There a couple of guys that have an inventory of psrts. Hopefully one of them will chime in!
Welcome aboard!
Are these the parts you need?
If so, PM me with your full name and address — and I can send them to you.
$5 + $5 shipping in a bubble envelope.
Your Father had good taste in quality rods and reels — nice combos.
Best,
Fred
The message they sent you was:
Hi, yes the threaded bolt is one piece I need, I think the nut is fine.
the spring I need is the wire spring that hooks into the slot on the bolt at one end,
and hooks over what I would call the "clicker lever" at the other end.
The spring is called the "drag spring" in the parts list, but it is an internal part of the anti-reverse mechanism.
What I referred to as the "clicker lever" is called the "drag lever" in the diagram.
It's amazing that you would have these parts!
The spring is shaped something like this: _____O_____l
Thanks, Mike
———————————————————
OK, these should be the parts you need, I believe, Mike —
The part numbers you gave me I recognized from a later "Gladding" parts listing — after they assumed distribution and merged with DQ for the purpose of North American Distribution for a short period of time.
They got a few of the parts descriptions wrong, or mis-labeled. The only spring on the "drag" that made sense to me — was the round compression wavy spring washer. Sorry for the error.
Now I see what you are talking about — it is actually the anti-reverse dog spring.
If these will work, send me your full name and address — and I will get them mailed today.
They are new old stock from around 1960.
Best,
Fred
Here is a pic of the diagram. The parts I need are Numbered 34 and 36.
Thanks Fred, those are the parts exactly.
I have sent an email with my address. Here are some pics of the gear I picked up.
The rod at the bottom is one I made for my dad's retirement in 1985
from a Fenwick blank.
Nice lineup, Mike —
Those are all top quality reels.
The 1001 is a neat little reel.
If these reels were manufactured today — with the exact same designs and materials — I would expect them to run in the $200 to $300 range.
Parts will go out this afternoon if the PO is open when we head down to Church — otherwise, first thing tomorrow morning. You should see the parts hopefully Saturday, maybe Friday.
Best,
Fred
Hi all,
I have an old Penn International 965 reel (15-17 years old I think...). I use it for catching opelu off my kayak for bait. The reel's drag broke and is now has alot of resistance when pulling off line and cannot be adjusted.
Is this old Penn worth fixing? Are the drags easy to fix? I have tried greasing all the bearings and gears but I cannot find out why it is sticking.
If not worth fixing it will become an office decoration.
Thanks,
Billy
With this group there are very few that would tell you to junk it, I'd bet you could find the schematic on the mystic site, pull it apart and see what's wrong. If you're stumped post some pictures, shouldn't be anything crazy. Give it a shot. Welcome
billy, they are very nice, but there have always been corrosion issues with this reel. there is a full rebuild post for the 975. it's very close. take a look. it might be salvageable.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=22.0
Hi folks. First time posting. Im working on my progear v32 and want to replace the drag washers. Can anyone direct me to the size I should order? I took photos with a Mike in them and sent them to smooth drag hoping that helps locate them. Any other advice on working this reel? It's a great reel.
Thanks in advance
Maurice
Quote from: Mauriceescobedo on February 22, 2020, 12:23:01 AM
Hi folks. First time posting. Im working on my progear v32 and want to replace the drag washers. Can anyone direct me to the size I should order? I took photos with a Mike in them and sent them to smooth drag hoping that helps locate them. Any other advice on working this reel? It's a great reel.
Thanks in advance
Maurice
Maurice,
First off, welcome to the forum!
If you've sent the info to Smooth Drag, you did the right thing. I'm sure you'll get the correct info and parts to get that Pro Gear in top shape.
Post some pictures in the Pro Gear forum when you service it so we can all see as well ;D
Welcome aboard,
Chad
you might also find something here!
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=21.0
Thanks guys. Will do. I've got it broken down right now but it's father daughter dance night at school so I'll continue later. Cheers.
Hello friends! First post, aside from the "welcome" post. I just snagged a used Senator 9/0 on a 6' Davis Big Game Rod for $175 my first proper rod/reel!! Now, I broke her down and cleaned all the metal chrome in vinegar, degreased all operating parts, and I am almost ready to reassemble! For land based shark fishing, catching sharks around 10'...Here's my question: Will the 7+1 drag kit from Bryan get me there, or will I need to get other parts like the SS Guide, bigger Crank arm, etc? Thanks in advance fellas!
If all your used parts are in excellent condition it's a good start. Try it out and see if it is lacking. The 7+1 drag kit is a good option. If you really get serious about your shark fishing then you might want to add upgrades. Rudy
Quote from: RowdyW on May 27, 2021, 05:10:44 PM
If all your used parts are in excellent condition it's a good start. Try it out and see if it is lacking. The 7+1 drag kit is a good option. If you really get serious about your shark fishing then you might want to add upgrades. Rudy
Thanks for the info! Everything is in good shape, aside from the star for the drag having a bent arm and the bolts to mount the reel to the pole being bent. Both cheap replacements. I currently have 3 thick, hard, black washers in the drag. Not sure if they are stock or not. But you're right, I'll give her a try and see what I can do! Any recommendations on good techniques? I've only don't freshwater fishing, nothing this big before haha.
Those 3 black washers are very old style asbestos brake linings. Get rid of them they are a health hazard. Either get Bryan's 7+ 1 kit through Mystic Parts or at least the Penn 5 Carbon Fiber set with new metal washers. Don't forget to get some Cal's Drag Grease to coat the CF washers & some Penn Blue Grease for the rest of the reel. I would also recommend getting a s/s gear sleeve & s/s dog. The bent arm on the star can be straightened between a couple of rags with a whack of a hammer on a hard surface. If your reel has the original 1 hole arm then I would also get a 2 hole power arm. Either a Penn original arm or an aftermarket one. With the aftermarket one you will also need a knob (t-bar or similar).
Quote from: RowdyW on May 27, 2021, 06:35:13 PM
Those 3 black washers are very old style asbestos brake linings. Get rid of them they are a health hazard. Either get Bryan's 7+ 1 kit through Mystic Parts or at least the Penn 5 Carbon Fiber set with new metal washers. Don't forget to get some Cal's Drag Grease to coat the CF washers & some Penn Blue Grease for the rest of the reel. I would also recommend getting a s/s gear sleeve & s/s dog. The bent arm on the star can be straightened between a couple of rags with a whack of a hammer on a hard surface. If your reel has the original 1 hole arm then I would also get a 2 hole power arm. Either a Penn original arm or an aftermarket one. With the aftermarket one you will also need a knob (t-bar or similar).
Oh! Yeah, those drag washers will be replaced asap! Tha KS for the heads up!! I do have the steel gears which is nice. I'll grab the SS gear sleeve and dog next, that should be enough for a while haha. I didn't even think about bending the star back! I've got a table vise with some leather mounts that should be perfect! The power arm sounds great as well, any recommendations on what's best there? Thanks again for all the info, Rowdy!
For power arms there are a lot of options right here on the site. For most instances I prefer the aluminum offset arms available from Black Pearl. The Boss (Alan T.) has s/s arms available. For t-bar knobs I shop fishincomfort & Gomexus on ebay, also Ted (Maxed Out) on this site.
Rowdy, I was thinking you would be giving the regular newbie lecture on the stand up fight from the beach against the drag rating by now!
:)
I hope everyone has a great Memorial Day weekend. I hope to see some of you next weekend at the clubhouse!
Rob
Rob, that might still be coming. ;D ;D Heck all these years and I still haven't landed any bigger than 7 feet. Everybody starting out does a lot of dreaming. ::)
Quote from: RowdyW on May 28, 2021, 04:30:11 AM
For power arms there are a lot of options right here on the site. For most instances I prefer the aluminum offset arms available from Black Pearl. The Boss (Alan T.) has s/s arms available. For t-bar knobs I shop fishincomfort & Gomexus on ebay, also Ted (Maxed Out) on this site.
Thanks a million! I'll do some research and see what I can find and what I like best! While on the topic of sharks, any techniques you can suggest? I'm no expert but the more knowledge I can have, the better!
Your best bet is to search the internet (youtube), library, old posts from here, etc. Everybody has their own technique. Learn about rigging etc. Daron the Sharkhunter from this site has a lot of tips posted on rigging. When you go to the beach shark fishing you will need a lot of gear to drag along. Daron has now found out it is a lot easier to just get a large high drag spinner & surf pole with just a few extras & make it a 1 trip to the surf instead of many trips back & forth to get all the gear to the beach. Like for instance kayak, tackle, bait, cooler, sand spikes, belts & harnesses, refreshments, etc. etc.. 99% of the time you won't catch any sharks & if you do .05% of the time you will be lucky to catch one over 4 ft. long. Remember Big baits for Big fish! :D You have a lot of prep work to learn. Right now all you have is a rod & reel & the reel needs to be prepped first. Then it will be time to get the supplies together for your rigging, like cable, solid wire, very heavy leader, crimps, hooks, weights, swivels, plus the tools to put it all together. Don't forget that when you get the shark into the surf you will need to dehook it & if you can't you will need a decent sized bolt cutter to cut the hook. We can get you there but it will take time & $$ and patience to succeed.
Shark fishing is becoming a bit dicey and political. Check local, state and federal laws regarding shark fishing in your area.
Quote from: oc1 on May 28, 2021, 09:07:03 PM
Shark fishing is becoming a bit dicey and political. Check local, state and federal laws regarding shark fishing in your area.
Or move to a FREE STATE like Florida! Take the shark test & get the license for free. And get a free saltwater rules & regulations booklet free. ;D ;D
Quote from: RowdyW on May 28, 2021, 09:58:01 PM
Quote from: oc1 on May 28, 2021, 09:07:03 PM
Shark fishing is becoming a bit dicey and political. Check local, state and federal laws regarding shark fishing in your area.
Or move to a FREE STATE like Florida! Take the shark test & get the license for free. And get a free saltwater rules & regulations booklet free. ;D ;D
Yep! That's what I did! The only issue in my area is tourism. This weekend would be a great time to fish, but there are thousands on the beach. Oh well! Next time haha.
Jay the best time to go shark fishing is at night. No tourists then.
Quote from: RowdyW on May 28, 2021, 11:27:59 PM
Jay the best time to go shark fishing is at night. No tourists then.
You said Bigger Bait= Bigger Sharks ?
No tourists ........what do you use for Bait then ? ;D
[/quote]
Yep! That's what I did! The only issue in my area is tourism. This weekend would be a great time to fish, but there are thousands on the beach. Oh well! Next time haha.
[/quote]
You bring a big @ss shark up on a crowded beach and I bet you'll have the beach to yourself the next day ;D
Quote from: Wompus Cat on May 29, 2021, 12:33:43 AM
Quote from: RowdyW on May 28, 2021, 11:27:59 PM
Jay the best time to go shark fishing is at night. No tourists then.
You said Bigger Bait= Bigger Sharks ?
No tourists ........what do you use for Bait then ? ;D
Blackfin Tuna, Barracuda, Spanish Mackerel, Jacks, Bluefish, Tourists (just kidding) ;D, any oily fish. Live is best.
just use the tourists
otherwise, all your "baits" taste better than shark
Alright, update on upgrading the Penn 9/0...I've found the SS Gear Sleeve and SS Dog on Cortez Conversions. Cal's grease and 7+1 drag kit from Mystic Parts. I'm still looking for a power arm and handle but can't seem to track one down! If anyone here sells them, please let me know, I'm looking to buy asap! As for anything else I might need, please let me know and if you can attach links? I've found loads of info from 10+ years ago and most websites don't exist or don't have any of that info available anymore. Ready to get everything purchased and assembled asap, I'm stoked! Thanks in advance!
Check out pro challenger on here (black Pearl) He has a nice offset handle arm. Looks like he's out of 9/0 stars though. SS gear sets too. Florocarbon line as well if you're looking
Lookup Black Pearl in the vendors section and go to his website. 114h offset aluminum handle arms available in silver, red, and black. For a knob try (The Boss) Alan Tani. Get the 6/0 t bar With counterbore.
Thanks for the help fellas! I'm adding those parts to the cart now! While I'm here, what are the odds that this part fits my 9/0 or I can find the same parts for the 9/0. https://www.prochallenger.com/product/113hx-pkgzz/75?cs=true&cst=custom
NO, that's for a 113H 4/0!!
Yeah, I saw it was for the 114 just wondered if they had one for the 115 or where I could find the components for the 115. Not sure it's entirely necessary but worth asking. Haha
There was a member that made the ring & washers but nothing much from him in about 2 years. Even if you had the adapter ring getting replacement eared washers would be a problem. They had a tendency to rip off the ears. Stick with the 7+1, you'll be happy with them. If you ever have to replace the washers in that kit they use the stock Penn CF washers. Only the metals are special (cut thinner).
Ohhh! Fantastic information thank you, Rowdy!!! So, I've got a power arm/handle, 7+1 drag, SS Sleeve and Dog, Cal's and Penn's grease. Anything else before I dive in?
That should do it. Now let's see if a fish can break that. Don't overtighten the screws on the side plates or it will pull the brass inserts loose in the graphite frame. If that happens you will have to go for an aluminum frame from Cortez Conversions if they are available. Now get it together & show us what you catch with it. Any problems just give me a shout.
Ok, bought everything! Last question, (for now anyway haha) I have the standard chrome covered brass rails for a "frame" will this work or are they other affordable frame alternatives?? Cortez Conversions is out of stock.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Penn-115L2-Senator-Conventional-Fishing-Reel-Part-Frame-/264816188607?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
There's no other options until Tom at CC produces some more. It's just a sideline for him, his machinery is busy with better paying jobs. The only other option is to watch ebay or other sources to find a used Accurate 9/0 frame which are very scarce & expensive. You could post in the Wanted To Buy section for anybody on the forum that has a aluminum half frame frame from CC that they want to sell. You will have to use what you have for now & be patient. The L2 graphite frame is for the latest 9/0's made in china. It also has less mounting holes. The graphite frames are just a cost alternative to the brass base & posts & not any better.
Thanks, Rowdy! It's almost like you know what you're talking about! ;) I appreciate all the feedback and the time you've taken to help! Hopefully you'll see me soon enough with some big boys! Keep 'em tight!
Watcha mean "almost" ? ::) :D
Hey it's me, back again with questions! After a thorough inspection of the line on my reel, I decided to remove it all. It had me concerned to say the least. Having said that, what should I be replacing it with? So, to recap: Penn 9/0 with upgrades, kayaking baits out on the shore, fishing for sharks. I'm leaning towards 80-100# braid, with a mono topshot, followed by my hand made leaders. What does the salty crew think? Thanks!
I would use 100# braid & topped with 50yds of 80# mono. And pack the braid real tight. Rudy
Rudy once again with a great and timely answer! That's precisely what I was considering. Time to add another thing to the shopping cart haha.
Hey guys, quick question(maybe not depending on answers lol). I'm looking to get an older reel like one of the Penn Senator's or Daiwa Sealines for Grouper, Amberjack, and the occasional medium sized shark(bull sharks). Originally I was looking at the 9/0's of each but now I'm starting to consider a 6/0 with the upgraded drags. Would this be sufficient in yalls opinion or should I go ahead and still aim for the 9/0 and send it in for a drag rebuild?
What kind of line will you use? A 6/0 will hold a lot of Spectra braid.
Quote from: oc1 on August 15, 2021, 07:28:06 PM
What kind of line will you use? A 6/0 will hold a lot of Spectra braid.
Either pure mono or braid backing with mono top shot 100lb range.
For the 6/0 the Senator 114HLW will fit the bill. It has the same gear train as the 9/0. Make sure you have grease carbon fiber drags and a handle upgrade. Wait on the gear sleeve until you strip the old brass one, but that is pretty Rafael if you keep the handle nut tight. Bill
looking for a brace post and three threaded inserts for a c447 newell. Will any penn posts fit or be close? ty much
Quote from: Clc on September 16, 2021, 11:28:44 PM
looking for a brace post and three threaded inserts for a c447 newell. Will any penn posts fit or be close? ty much
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=newell+447&_sacat=1492&LH_TitleDesc=0&_blrs=recall_filtering&_sop=16[/b]]
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=newell+447&_sacat=1492&LH_TitleDesc=0&_blrs=recall_filtering&_sop=16 (http://[b)
Your reel has the long screws and you need those inserts for the ends of them? I have some I'm sure laying around. PM your address and I'll send them too you.
I'm pretty sure that one of the bars from a penn will work. Can't remember which one but if you post the length on here I'd bet someone has one.
Quote from: Shark Hunter on January 09, 2016, 11:12:07 PM
Who Dey! ;D
Nice setup Sid.
My primary interest has always been classic fly reels, but when I stumbled recently onto a trove of spinning reels, I became quite interested in their gyroscopic geometry.
How do i clean the outside of my reels after a service, they are all greasy. mineral spirits and paper towels?
I just use an old rag to polish it up!
Like Alan, a rag works fine but I also follow up with a wipe down of car detailer that makes them look like new. A quick spray on clean rag and wipe them down.
Hi Alan! This is Milt. I just joined.
I was wondering, how do you tell the difference between the old asbestos drag washers and the carbon fiber?
Quote from: cranker789 on March 05, 2022, 02:54:12 AMHow do i clean the outside of my reels after a service, they are all greasy. mineral spirits and paper towels?
I do a light spray of WD40 —- then a wipe down with a microfiber cloth.
Best, Fred
Quote from: cranker789 on March 05, 2022, 02:54:12 AMHow do i clean the outside of my reels after a service, they are all greasy. mineral spirits and paper towels?
I do like Alan & Larry, wipe them off good, but then spray them with liquid auto wax, wipe them down to protect & shine them up. I can't stand WD40 and refuse to use it for anything. It makes a mess out of everything IMO.
Quote from: Milt Ordakowski on March 06, 2022, 04:06:01 PMHi Alan! This is Milt. I just joined.
I was wondering, how do you tell the difference between the old asbestos drag washers and the carbon fiber?
carbon fiber is a coarse woven materal. the old composite materials are like some of the brake material that is used for cars!
Hello, I am Petar. Could anyone tell me how to clean and lubricate a thrust drag bearing found in Shimano Triton Mark III? Thanks!
i would just drizzle some corrosion x into the bearing.
Hi Alan,
I just signed on to this form the other day and have a question. I have this Carl Newell Spool for awhile and do not know what reel it will fit. It is marked CN and the spool measure 3-5/8" in width and 3-3/8" in diameter.
Any help is greatly appreciated,
Dean
Ask on the Newell board.
If it's for a Newell reel it might be a 646 spool. Although it might be made for a Penn reel, then you have to check with the Penn experts. The shaft length determines which reel it will fit.
Will a squidder 146 spool fit inside of a surfmaster 100?
Quote from: Homer Hiers on March 06, 2023, 07:06:39 PMWill a squidder 146 spool fit inside of a surfmaster 100?
The 146 and 100 spools are different part numbers. While both share the same stand (30-49) and basic frame width, their spool arbors are different due to bearings (146) vs bushings (100).
Hi guys,
I would like your opinion in relation to a reel I bought recently (a week ago) online.
The issue is that it seems to me that the foot of the reel is too inclined or bent to the front.
The reel is a D.A.M Quick 1401 (I noticed too that the arm is chromed metal instead of black).
What I would like to know, is if the foot is really bent or if by any chance that model was like that.
I took some pictures to compare it to a D.A.M Quick 3000 that I have and you can see the difference
Thank you in advance!
Hiroel
I would say that it was bent . The center line of the spool shaft should run to the middle of your first guide . It can be adjusted with a little heat on the reel stem .
Quote from: oldmanjoe on April 01, 2023, 03:52:58 AMI would say that it was bent . The center line of the spool shaft should run to the middle of your first guide . It can be adjusted with a little heat on the reel stem .
Hi Joe, Thank you! Yes, and it seems weird to me because it looks like it has not been fished a lot, in general looks in a good shape.
Yeah, it's been bent, quite a bit, actually. Dam's alloy left something to be desired in that era. Nice reels but the alloy was a little soft. That seems to happen quite a bit. The good thing is, since it's kind of soft, and if you go at it slowly and carefully you should be able to get it back fairly close to original alignment without weakening too much.
Like Tom sez —-
It has been bent quite a bit.
Generally, with a smaller bend or stand twist issue —- it can be straightened in a wood-faced vise with no heat.
In this case, the stand stem will break if tried cold —- guaranteed.
The reel needs to come apart —- and with just the frame stand in a wood-faced vise —- a careful application of heat from a propane torch will likely do the trick.
The key here is slow, careful, and not too much heat directly applied. Then, when it is realigned —- STOP. Let it cool naturally, and don't try to adjust it any more.
You can then repaint the frame, if you wish.
If you crack the frame during this procedure —- no worries —- I have replacements.
Your DQ1401 (one of the best DQ spinning reels ever produced) is a 1982 model, the first year of production. In 1983, DQ started using the black crank handles instead of the chrome cranks.
The reason it was very lightly used is because after the owner bent it —- they figured it wasn't useful anymore. So it just got tossed in a drawer or a corner.
It is well worth repairing properly.
Best, Fred
Quote from: Midway Tommy on April 01, 2023, 03:17:06 PMYeah, it's been bent, quite a bit, actually. Dam's alloy left something to be desired in that era. Nice reels but the alloy was a little soft. That seems to happen quite a bit. The good thing is, since it's kind of soft, and if you go at it slowly and carefully you should be able to get it back fairly close to original alignment without weakening too much.
Hi Tom, Thank you!
Quote from: foakes on April 01, 2023, 04:16:07 PMLike Tom sez —-
It has been bent quite a bit.
Generally, with a smaller bend or stand twist issue —- it can be straightened in a wood-faced vise with no heat.
In this case, the stand stem will break if tried cold —- guaranteed.
The reel needs to come apart —- and with just the frame stand in a wood-faced vise —- a careful application of heat from a propane torch will likely do the trick.
The key here is slow, careful, and not too much heat directly applied. Then, when it is realigned —- STOP. Let it cool naturally, and don't try to adjust it any more.
You can then repaint the frame, if you wish.
If you crack the frame during this procedure —- no worries —- I have replacements.
Your DQ1401 (one of the best DQ spinning reels ever produced) is a 1982 model, the first year of production. In 1983, DQ started using the black crank handles instead of the chrome cranks.
The reason it was very lightly used is because after the owner bent it —- they figured it wasn't useful anymore. So it just got tossed in a drawer or a corner.
It is well worth repairing properly.
Best, Fred
Hi Fred, Thank you! I sort of knew (the bent part) but was hoping to be wrong. I will see if I can somehow follow those steps and fix it (I will do my best... ). I know now that not everything is lost :) as you said then, if I break it I know where to find the part, that give me confident to try the above procedure.
Thanks again!
Hiroel
I'm a new member. I recently bought and stripped/reassembled an all post design Penn Senator 114H I intend to use.
My question is are there any guides available on this forum or elsewhere, or a more appropriate thread on which to post in this forum to get help estimating its age? I found only some hints with the search terms I tried. An online schematic suggests the open all post design dates it to before 1996, but beyond that I am guessing. Even dating it within a 5-10 year range would satisfy my curiosity. Here are some of the features of my reel that, if they are original, may help date it:
Drag washers cannot be accessed without disassembling reel;
Anti-reverse dog spring is a bent copper(?) leaf;
Most external metalwork (rings, posts, reel stand, handle) was chromed bronze (I replaced the cracked exterior rings with new stainless ones);
Aluminum spool, not anodized;
Senator114H 3.jpgSenator114H 2.jpg
If there are other diagnostic features I could check or other photos I could take that would help, I'll be happy to. Thanks.
Welcome. There is not a lot of information on the Special Senators regarding dates. With an aluminum spool I would say it's an 80's reel. With internal drags more knowledgeable members will chime in and give you a start date of when internals we're introduced. The 114H is a workhorse and will serve you well. With carbon fiber drags and a handle upgrade it will fight well above its weight class. If you can scrounge an OEM full frame your golden. Bill
That is a chrome spool. Not an old reel as it has bearings and as you noted no external drag access. Stout reels as Bill said.
Todd
Ooops, my apologies for uploading copies of a couple photos. Not sure how that happened.
Many thanks for your thoughts. I'm pretty sure it's an aluminum spool; before re-assembling the reel and spooling the braid I cleaned and polished it. I do plan to use it with some pride (it was not as pretty when I got it)
Pretty sure the spool isn't aluminum, the aluminum spools have a different shoulder
Quote from: Swami805 on May 06, 2023, 10:35:56 AMPretty sure the spool isn't aluminum, the aluminum spools have a different shoulder
And aluminum does not shine like this chromed spool.
I recently acquired a Penn 9 reel and have a question about its spool. I've read that they came with either plastic or chromed brass spools and later with aluminum spools. The spool that came on this reel looks more like brushed stainless than any chromed brass I'm familiar with. The reel had its original leather drags and looked like it's never been opened up.
Does anyone know if this is definitely a brass spool, and if it would be safe to load it with 15 or 20# monofilament without Dacron backing?
Thanks,
Jon
A couple of pictures of the spool after cleaning.
I'm pretty sure it's a 3 piece brass spool. I'll let the experts answer what line is best.
I'm no expert but it looks like stainless to me. You should put some backing on it before loading it with mono with a 3 piece spool.
That's a problem with the penn torque 7 and 9,,,, ;) you could straighting it out and weld it to give more straight but that's my only option,,,,, ;D
Thanks for the replies.
I'll stick with the Dacron backing since it's a 3 piece spool, but I'm still curious if the flanges and arbor are chromed brass or stainless. When searching the topic here, I see both suggested. Has anyone ever cut into a 3 piece spool with this finish to actually see if there's brass underneath?
The spool looks to be stainless steel. Try sticking a magnet to it. While not always accurate it might tell you if it is. And yes definitely put some Dacron on the spool first. Bill
Thanks for the suggestion, Bill.
I tried the magnet test when I first looked at it, but it wasn't magnetic. I expected this, but had to check some stainless around the shop and a kitchen pan to confirm that they are all the same.
I'll eventually find a trashed spool with this finish and do a little destructive test to find out.
Thanks all,
Jon
fridge magnet... rare-earth magnet... or something in-between (strength-wise)?
The spool is chrome plated brass.
Any magnet will work but some grades of stainless steel are magnetic.
Thanks for the answer Lee.
I was trying several magnets to see if it could be a magnetic stainless, but thought it was unlikely.
Jon
QuoteThe 300-series stainless steels have varying degrees of nickel making them mostly non-magnetic. Devoid of nickel and with a grain structure similar to carbon steel, the 400-series stainless steels are slightly magnetic.
The #9 and 109 came with a Chromed brass spool even when the other level wind reels had changed to stainless. If yours had asbestos drags, the original spool was very likely chromed brass. Also, the 9 you have is rated for 15# mono. No backing is called for by Penn. It is designed and was guaranteed to handle 15# mono. They are good strong reels and fun to use. Perfect for big sheepshead in my world. Never had a spool go south on me in my life.
While yours is technically a 3-piece spool, it isn't the type that was coming apart in the early days of monofilament line.
I believe someone has already cut various spools open, pulled them apart, etc. The photos and discussions are around here somewhere.
Thanks for all the good info
Jon
How do I start a thread?
Just tore down my Penn 114h and shaft was frozen on pinion gear. Soaked it , then put heat on it and got it off.
So the bearing that is in the cup on the Rt side is really stuck in there?
I have a new bearing on order, but need to get this one out.
I didn't want to damage cup, cause only ordered bearing!!
Any suggestions?
Thanks all
Quote from: lumberjack on July 24, 2023, 02:45:32 PMHow do I start a thread?
Just tore down my Penn 114h and shaft was frozen on pinion gear. Soaked it , then put heat on it and got it off.
So the bearing that is in the cup on the Rt side is really stuck in there?
I have a new bearing on order, but need to get this one out.
I didn't want to damage cup, cause only ordered bearing!!
Any suggestions?
Thanks all
Go to the intended subforum and click "user actions" one of the options will be to start a new thread.
Re: the specific question: probably shoulda ordered a bearing cup while you were at it.
Options exist. But by my understanding none of them are 100% successful on 100% of reels.
You may have to make a DIY bearing puller. Lots of options there.
Ah, the bane of used Senators; bearings corroded/stuck in the cup. That press-in cup makes it kinda difficult to service without pulling apart the whole gear-side system. Too bad both cups don't screw in 'n out for easy service.
Best for me is solvent soak, heating/freezing, then working gradually both the keeper, the the bearing with a prying tool the you may have to make yourself As Jason stated.
I've had some luck, albeit sketchy, by using a punch to pound wet pieces of paper towel into the and under the bearing. Lots of solvent and heat before starting. You may end up denting the cup but worth a try. Bill
Yeah, that's another good one. I used bread, but it worked well.
Just found a Penn pursuit iv on top of a garbage can at the park. looks like the only thing wrong with it is a bent main shaft and the handle. Ive ordered the parts. Looks like all the gears are going to be fine but there's a lot of metal shavings on the gears. What's the best way to clean off the gears completely and regrease? I read lighter fluid but I don't have any. Will soap and water do the trick?
An old toothbrush and some kind of solvent to break down the old grease. Soap and water might be ok if you really work at it with a toothbrush or something
Ahh of course. I have mineral spirits I can use
I have a vintage Haidong Master 808 reel. I want to swap the handle from right side to left. It is not like normal reels in that the other side does not accommodate the post. Are these reels not "switchable" or is there a trick to it? Thank you.
i took a quick look but could not find anything online. photos might help. :-\
Should be reversible crank mount from right to left.
Typically, just unscrew the cover cap on the opposite side.
There should be a screw inside to remove.
Or, the entire crank assembly may just unscrew if rotated backwards.
But generally, on Asian & Korean reels —- there is a screw on the opposite side under the cap.
Like Alan said —- post some pics.
Welcome!
Best, Fred
I will have to dig out my good camera to take a couple clear pictures. But more info may help. I took the screw out from under the cap on the left. On the other side, I pulled the handle out. But the left side opening is smaller (it accommodates the screw only) than the right where I pulled the handle post out, so the handle post will not insert on the left. I cannot see anything else to take out and I was leaning toward taking the reel apart. Maybe this info helps a bit more. If no, I will try to take a couple pictures over the weekend. Thanks for trying to help. Appreciate it.
It will switch over —- there is just something we are missing without more info.
Maybe someone else on our site knows.
Should be easy.
Best, Fred
Found info!
Found info
didn't call, but the link is active. https://berinsontackle.com/
Quote from: alantani on August 19, 2023, 01:38:28 AMdidn't call, but the link is active. https://berinsontackle.com/
Thank you for replying Alan
Hope all is well on your end sir!
After further research, I was able to clear things up!
Thanks again!
Paul Berinson is a solid guy.
Lots of times, a website will look like it is closed because the owner of the website wouldn't renew or buy the domain from a third party hostage blackmailer.
You are correct, there are plenty of crooks and deceivers on the internet —- and it will only get worse with the advent of AI.
Paul is not one of them —- he is a straight shooter.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on August 19, 2023, 06:09:49 AMPaul Berinson a solid guy.
Lots of times, a website will look like it is closed because the owner of the website wouldn't renew or buy the domain from a third party hostage blackmailer.
You are correct, there are plenty of crooks and deceivers on the internet —- and it will only get worse with the advent of AI.
Paul is not one of them —- he is a straight shooter.
Best, Fred
Yes, I know that Fred!
I edited out my comments above, because I wouldn't want anyone, to get the wrong idea about him or his business!
So I hope that is acceptable!
As I would never want, to tarnish anyone's reputation or name!
There is definitely, some scam sites on the web right now, that look identical to others!