go to the shimano website and pull up the schematics.
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/90TLD15_30S-ARB_v1_m56577569830570229.pdf (http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/90TLD15_30S-ARB_v1_m56577569830570229.pdf)
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/90TLD20_40S-ARB_v1_m56577569830570230.pdf (http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/90TLD20_40S-ARB_v1_m56577569830570230.pdf)
here's your reel. looks vaguely familiar, doesn't it.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_016.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_017.JPG)
let's start with the left side. remove the four left side plate screws (key #114).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_018.JPG)
inside the left side plate assembly (key #211) is a click spring (key #67) that needs a light coat of grease. you will also find a spool shaft bushing "b" (key #57).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_019.JPG)
the bushing is 4x11x4 mm.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_020.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_021.JPG)
we're going to upgrade this to a bearing and lube it with corrosion x.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_022.JPG)
remove the spool (key #110) and find the right spool bearing (key #482).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_023.JPG)
this bearing is 6x12x4 mm. we'll clean it with carb cleaner and compressed air, then lube it with corrosion x.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_024.JPG)
a light coat of grease goes on the ends of the spool.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_025.JPG)
remove the rod clamp assembly and grease the bolts.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_026.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_028.JPG)
install the spool (key #110).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_029.JPG)
install the left side plate assembly (key #211) and left side plate screws (key #114). these few steps are all that are required for routine maintenance of this reel.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_030.JPG)
now for the right side. remove the handle nut plate screw (key #128) and handle nut plate (key #2).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_031.JPG)
remove the handle nut (key #129) with a 10mm wrench.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_032.JPG)
remove the handle (key #414).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_033.JPG)
remove the handle washer (key #78) and star (key #79).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_034.JPG)
remove the two right side plate screws "b" (key #109).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_036.JPG)
remove the four right side plate screws "a" (key #81).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_035.JPG)
remove the right side plate assembly (key #209).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_037.JPG)
here's a close up of the gear assembly. take particular note of the size and strength of this stainless steel main gear and pinion gear. these are much more heavy duty than the gear sets found in equivalent size trinidads and toriums.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_038.JPG)
the washer stack is oriented "()()|B|", with four drag spring washers (key #92), a bearing thrust washer (key #91), an 8x16x5 mm bearing (key #483) and a star drag washer (key #80). remove and set them aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_039.JPG)
now carefully remove the stainless steel and canvas drag washers, one at a time. i've cleaned them and lined them up for the photo. from left to right is the drive shaft washer (key #100), the drive gear (key #133), the eared washer "b" (key #98), key washer "c" (key #97), drag washer "i" (key #96), eared washer "e" (key #95), drag washer "d" (key #94), and key washer "f" (key #93).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_042.JPG)
carbontex drag washers from smoothdrag.com are not available as of 1/2008. if there is sufficient demand, that may change. here are the approximate dimensions of the drag washers.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_066.JPG)
and here is a set of penn ht-100 drag washers pulled from my inventory that offer the best fit. from left to right, they are the #6-309, #6-116. #56-440 and another #56-440.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_043.JPG)
apply a coat of cal's drag grease to all four of the carbon fiber drag washers.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_044.JPG)
use an old toothbrush to apply a light coat of grease to the carbon fiber baseplate. install the #6-309 drag washer and the drive gear (key #133).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_045.JPG)
install the remaining metal and carbon fiber drag washers.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_048.JPG)
install the drag spring washers (key #92) oriented "()()".
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_049.JPG)
install the bearing thrust washer (key #91).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_050.JPG)
grease and install the drive shaft bearing (key #483).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_051.JPG)
install the star drag washer (key #80).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_052.JPG)
apply a light coat of grease to the inside of the right side plate assembly (key #209).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_053.JPG)
install the right side plate, noting the "up" position of the yoke plate (key #259) and "forward" position of the clutch lever (key #132).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_054.JPG)
wiggle the clutch lever back a little and the right side plate should seat properly with a snap!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_055.JPG)
install the four right side plate screws "a" (key #81).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_056.JPG)
install the two right side plate screws "b" (key #109).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_057.JPG)
paint a little grease on the drive shaft (key #102). this is a common area for corrosion.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_058.JPG)
now, decision time. you have the stock handle (key #414) on the left and two handles that have stock arms and custom grips. these custom grips are made for me by a local machine shop. the tapered grip (key #414M) in the center is prefered by most people. the larger grip (key #414L) is my favorite. since it's my reel, we'll go with the larger grip.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_059.JPG)
install the star drag (key #79), the handle washer (key #78), and the new handle (key #414L). put a little grease on the handle arm around the drive shaft.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_060.JPG)
install and properly align the 10mm handle nut (key #129).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_061.JPG)
install the handle nut plate (key #2) and screw (key #128).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_063.JPG)
done!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_064.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/shimanotld1530_065.JPG)
now for a few comments. for purposes of checking the drag only, i loaded this reel up with straight 40# mono. i kept on cranking down on the star and got an easy 20#'s of drag. just looking at the frame, i'm guessing that the graphite frame could handle that much pressure with no problem at all. and unlike the shimano trinidad and torium, i see no anti-reverse problems with 20#'s of drag. i think this reel could easily handle 300-350 yards of 60# hollowcore spectra, a short 40-50# topshot, and up to 20#'s of drag.
with greased carbon fiber, the drag washers should last forever. with the bearings cleaned out, it should cast just fine. the graphite frame is nice because it is non-corrosive. and this reel is going to be one of the easiest to service. simply remove the left side plate and you have easy access to both bearings.
there you have it. high speed, easy to upgrade, easy to maintain, spectra worthy with 20#'s of drag, handle upgrade options, and a small well balanced frame. for a graphite star drag, this reel gets my vote for best in it's class
I have never found a 30 pound class reel as trouble free and reliable.
I followed this tutorial to service and rebuild my 15-30. What a pleasure.
Here in Cape Town, South Africa we need to wade quite a bit to get to the fish. This little reel works wonders.
Well done Alan.
By the looks of it, the simplicity yet durable design of these reels make them a great place for me to start building my saltwater lineup. As for replacing the bushing for a bearing in the left sideplate...do you recommend simply ordering a 4x11x4 abec 5 stainless bearing from a place like boca bearing? I checked out their website and they list the 15/30,20/40 star reel, but do you think the bearing that comes up in that search is for replacement of the bushing, or for replacing bearings that shimano installed at the factory. Thanks, as always, for your help and great tutorials.
-CN
G'day Craig,
These are great reels - you can't really go wrong.
Regarding the Abec bearings, they're likely to be the replacements, ie 6x12x4 & 7x17x5.
No problem, though.
Dawn at Smooth Drag has the 4x11x4 and the replacement set (#76 - sizes as above).
The set is $17 and the 4x11x4 is likely to be around $10.
Pricing and product list here: http://www.smoothdrag.com/price.html (http://www.smoothdrag.com/price.html)
Ordering info here: http://www.smoothdrag.com/order.html (http://www.smoothdrag.com/order.html)
Hope that's of some assistance.
Justin
dawn can put together a set of drags and bearings for you. she also has a great handle upgrade.
Thanks guys. I already have the drag washers on their way...looks like I better call back and have them send the bearings as well. Much appreciated!
-CN
The full service with the bearing install went great. It took me a few minutes to get the hang of smoothly removing the bearing shields, but now I have it down pretty well. Now I just have to go fish with them!!
Thanks again
-Craig
craig, can i tempt you with a stainless steel handle arm and a 4/0 or 6/0 kolekar grip?
I might be intrested in a handle upgrade.
I'm looking at a 15/30.
On the Speedmaster IV that I have, the handle is all chrome, knob is black.
The 15/30 I'm looking are black with a black knob.
Which is older?
Thanks again Alan, I've learned a bunch frome this site.
the knobs are black in all of the reels. the older ones have black anodized aluminum arms. the newer ones have arms that are chrome over brass. a
That's a heck of a set of guts! How does the 15/30 compare to the Daiwa 20SHA, size wise? I see they weigh nearly the same, but the shimano holds a heck of a lot more line. I'm about to get another set of reels, to back up my 20SHAs (which I love), and the 15/30s look like they'll last forever, but I don't want a huge brick of a reel.
Imagine how strong this reel would be if someone made a metal frame for it.
I did the change from left side plate bushing to bearing that is shown in the tutorial on my 15/30. Although good before, the freespool is now excellent..
After reading this tutorial it inspired me to purchase and upgrade a tld star 15/30. It's been an awesome reel for bottom fishing down here on the gulf coast. I did Alan's upgrade recommendations:
carbontex drag
replaced left side bushing with bearing
Alan's handle, went with the largest size
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FFPDPEq_PK8/T581Y0MZ0mI/AAAAAAAABZM/15O17VXFku8/s630/1000000226.JPG)
(https://plus.google.com/photos/109288052635247570813/albums/5737363058138700193/5737363057866604018)
.... this thing can jack jaws and rip the face off fish.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-a9k5PdxJVV8/TwsP4V0DHRI/AAAAAAAAAmA/ip1_UbWrqAo/s471/StudAlmaco.jpg)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3PcH9D-leSE/Tlz19WptzjI/AAAAAAAAAgw/TLrWgpNOZNQ/s628/BEAST+snapper.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UVUT9yZWQAE/TpsJ628lSGI/AAAAAAAAAiE/ezpoLGEmEG8/s471/grouper2.JPG)
I definitely recommend this reel and these upgrades!
the handle grip makes it easy, doesn't it! ;D
You could probably swap the bushing under the drive shaft for a bearing like some do with Toriums to further upgrade this great reel.
Quote from: alantani on May 12, 2012, 08:08:20 PM
the handle grip makes it easy, doesn't it! ;D
The handle really is a "game changer"... I'm happy that I went with the largest size one, which you recommended.
looks like a perfect fit to me!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FFPDPEq_PK8/T581Y0MZ0mI/AAAAAAAABZM/15O17VXFku8/s630/1000000226.JPG)
Quote from: FishGolfDrink on May 12, 2012, 07:00:33 PM
After reading this tutorial it inspired me to purchase and upgrade a tld star 15/30.
inspired me too but bought the 20/40 because it was the the one available for bidding on ebay. ease of maintenance, no brainer...
at first i bought tld star 20/40 because i cant afford penn 113h..(it's very expensive in Malaysia)
now i am very happy with my purchase!! will order this handle from Alan too
Used my Christmas gift 20/40 for the first time yesterday on a Rock Fish trip. Loved the reel, had a blast on the trip!
Next trip is in a few weeks so will have time to order a new handle and some bearings and have them on and ready to go.
Easy as when it's done by an expert and the reel is a good design.
Alan, curious to know why you coat the inside of the non-corrosive frames with grease.
Dave
G'day Dave,
Bryan summed this up well some time back:
QuoteSalt tends to stick to graphite frames, probably because it's not a smooth surface. By greasing, it does not allow the salt water to stick to the frame, and slides out through any of the openings in the reel.
Link here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=710.msg13475#msg13475 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=710.msg13475#msg13475)
Hope that helps.
All the best, Justin
Quote from: redsetta on June 20, 2012, 06:51:54 AM
G'day Dave,
Bryan summed this up well some time back:
QuoteSalt tends to stick to graphite frames, probably because it's not a smooth surface. By greasing, it does not allow the salt water to stick to the frame, and slides out through any of the openings in the reel.
Link here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=710.msg13475#msg13475 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=710.msg13475#msg13475)
Hope that helps.
All the best, Justin
Aha, no new questions, just find the appropriate answers.
That makes sense, thanks Justin and Bryan. Another excuse to strip them all down again.
Quote
I'm Dave and I love a cold beer on a hot day.
may i add while fishing... :)
Quote from: David Bentley on June 20, 2012, 06:42:26 AM
Easy as when it's done by an expert and the reel is a good design.
Alan, curious to know why you coat the inside of the non-corrosive frames with grease.
Dave
yeah, the salt sticks to everything ....... :-\
Well - this was a great tutorial...but, it did not solve my TLD problem :'( I think there is a problem with the little gear that slides up into the big main gear when the "line out" lever is engaged. Someone used the reel and tried pulling it out of gear when stuck on the bottom with a moving boat....it has never been the same. It will not "freespool" freely....
I put the new carbontex Smoooooth drags in thinking that might have been the problem. Plus the new bearings. If someone wants this thing for parts....let me know and I will send it out. If you think it is worth something .... I am in the market for something similar for cod/bluefish/stripers!
It is a 15/30 and is actually in pretty good shape.
Wow! So tempted tunacommy! You can fix it though, I know you can. :)
send it over and let me take a look!
Quote from: alantani on June 26, 2012, 06:27:50 AM
send it over and let me take a look!
I was looking at replacing this thing...then realized I would be spending more money than I want to! (I think I fell in love with those Avet reels, they are beauties!) Any help would be fantastic...thanks Alan, will send you tomorrow. :)
does anybodyknow the dimensions ot this part TGT0082 ??? it seems it also be replaced with a roller bearing. tahnks!
naw, that part it not critical. i can actually be removed without consequence.
Alan I would like to get the drag and bearing upgrade for my star drag 20/40. Any help would be appreciated, maybe a lever aswell depending on the price.
Check to see if you can get a drag set and bearing from smoothing. if not, i can get a set to you when i can return.
Hi guys,
Does anyone know if they still make these reels?
I've seen them on the net being sold new but thought they were discontinued. Were they made in Japan originally?
Cheers,
Mark
G'day yf,
They're still current - here, for example: http://www.tackledirect.com/shimanotldstar.html (http://www.tackledirect.com/shimanotldstar.html)
Likely Malayasian made these days, but Japanese initially - I've only seen the latter.
Good luck, Justin
Thanks Justin,
Couldn't find any for sale in Australia. Ended up buying this one off ebay - $113 US including postage to Australia. Now just wait for it to come....
I bought a couple recently (one eBay and one from tackle shop). Both made in Japan. Outstanding reels in my opinion and very easy to service/maintain.
My TLD Star 15/30s arrived finally in the mail today. Looks like a nice little reel. The only thing is that there appears to be something wrong with it straight out of the box.
If I put it in cast and then flick it back and then start cranking the handle, the spool turns as expected but there is increased resistance through the handle and a sound like something is binding. If I give the handle a sharp crank forwards, then there is an audible clunk and the increased resistance goes away and it all feels nice and smooth.
Sending back is not an ideal solution as it took 3 weeks to get here from the US. Any ideas of what the problem may be and how I can fix it?
thats just the pinion gear kicking into place and engaging the spool shaft, not serious. Maybe it needs a drop of lube?
I just ordered eight 20/40's for my tuna arsenal based on this tutorial and Alan's great advice. I'm going away from braid to straight 40-50# mono. Nothing against spectra at all, just making my tuna charters a bit easier on me!
Anyone care to guess if the TLD star handle is interchangeable with a charter special? Guess it depends on the main gear end. I have 4/0 handles on my Ch Sp's, but if I could ju$t $wap handle$??? The Ch Sp's are going back to salmon fishing duty next season. Don't really need the 4/0 handles for salmonoids and the TLD handles seem to have a little bigger knob.
the handles on the tld stars and tld 15 lever drags are all the same! you can even switch them out with the charter specials.
Quotethats just the pinion gear kicking into place and engaging the spool shaft, not serious. Maybe it needs a drop of lube?
The spool does seem to be engaging from the start though, turning the handle does cause the spool to spin, it's just that you can feel a lot of resistance. The resistance continues until you give it a sharp crank which then seems to engage something else which is quite noticable and then it is free as a bird.
G'day yf,
I wouldn't worry about sending it back - they're nearly bullet-proof and, as long as the frame's in good shape, it's likely fixable (in most instances ;)).
What I'd suggest is remove the handle, star etc, then pull the side plate.
The yoke may not be bedding back down (until you give it a sharp wind), which might mean the springs are corroded/weak etc or there's some impedence (grease/corrosion/a burr etc) on the spool shaft which is holding up the pinion.
(A tiny bit of rust at the top of the spool shaft would be enough to 'hang up' the pinion.)
The audible 'clunk' may be the yoke/pinion dropping back down.
Hopefully we'll make some progress once the side plate's off...
Good luck, Justin
Thanks Justin,
I took the side plate off. There was a bit of grease on the springs which I removed. I couldn't see any imperfections or rust on the spool shaft. Put it back but behaves the same. Perhaps I should just use it for a while and see if it wears in?
Cheers,
Mark
G'day Mark,
Might want to check the yoke - any slight bend or distortion could be angling the pinion slightly.
Whatever the issue is, it seems (as CapeFish noted) to be in/around the pinion, spool shaft and/or yoke...
Never know, it may just settle down with use ;)
Good luck, Justin
Ok,
I took it apart again and examined the various parts carefully. The spool shaft is very smooth and shows no sign of rust. The yoke is straight and moves up and down the posts fairly smoothly. The springs are both intact and feel quite strong to squeeze (not that i'd know what they are supposed to feel like).
I did notice that when sliding the pinion up and down the shaft there was a slight feeling that it was not sliding smoothly. When I looked closely at the underside of the pinion gear it appears that there may be a very small lip/burr on the edge of the straight face that locks on to the spool. Could this be the problem? I was thinking about smoothing it off with a flat hobby file and seeing if that helps. You can't see the surface of the gear very well in the photo but you can see the area i'm talking about.
Cheers,
Mark
mark, it sounds like you found your problem! give it a shot and then please let us know.
Smoothed it off but unfortunately didn't solve the problem. You guys are definitely right through I reckon - has to be with the spool shaft, pinion or yoke. Will pull it back apart and re-examine it all and let you know. How many times can you take these apart before the screws start to get loose! ;)
Another question though - Is there a way to make these reels more waterproof. The spool bearing looks quite vulnerable to water penetration to me. Considering that I will not be casting from the kayak, would it help to apply grease the spool bearing rather than use corrosion-X?
Thanks,
Mark
that one is easy. install greased carbon fiber drags and never worry about them again. pack the handle drive shaft bearing with grease and take it off the worry list as well. for spool bearings, open them up and then pop the left side plate off and lube them after every trip. the right side plate is now zero maintenance. it's only the two spool bearings and that takes only a few moments.
Thanks Alan,
Just waiting for the drag washers to arrive in the post and will do the other things recommended. With such basic ongoing maintenance requirements I can see this reel is going to be a pleasure to own!
Cheers,
Mark
I have had one final attempt to resolve the issue of the pinion gear hanging up on this reel. The yoke definitely operates fine - it is the pinion gear that is catching. I have smoothed of the edges of the pinion gear carefully but this has not fixed it. I have removed all grease from the inside of the pinion gear and the spool shaft and lubed with corrosion-X. The spool shaft appears fine but I guess it's possible that the angled faces that direct the pinion to lock down may not be the right angle although they appear smooth.
I wonder if it may be worth pursuing a new set of gears to see if this helps and if not perhaps even a replacement spool. Not sure how cost effective this would be though. Shimano Australia didn't want to know about it since the model is not sold here. I emailed Shimano in the US to ask where I could get these parts from and they just recommended that I send it in to them for repair and gave me a lecture for not buying from an Authorised retailer.. which is fair enough. Definitely would not be cost effective as postage to and from the US would almost add up to the cost of a new reel.
Does anyone know whether the gears in these are the same as TLD Lever drag series or any other model?
Is the spool same as any other model?
I have done the upgrades as recommended. Curious that the spool bearing was greased from factory but the drive shaft bearing was oiled... would have thought it should be the other way around.
Thanks for all the help. The reel is fishable but a bit annoying having to compenate for the issue by giving it a hard crank each time it has been put into free spool to make sure the gears are properly engaged.
Also I have a bit of OCD and an inner need to fix things!
Cheers,
Mark
send me an e-mail with your address and i'll send you a gear set. alantani@yahoo.com
Hi everyone,
Thought I would give you an update on the issue of the pinion gear not seating properly on the TLD 15/30s. I liked this reel so much despite the issue I was having that I bought another one from a US retailer. It behaves pretty much the same way in that it requires a sharp turn of the handle to properly engage the pinion. I guess it is possible that a batch of these are affected, or perhaps they are just manufactured this way. I have gotten used to it now. Great little reels and very easy to work on.
Cheers,
Mark
Mark,
I own 9 TLD 20/40's. I thought mine were B/O from the factory, but 7 of them have the condition you described...sort of. The other 2 are slightly better. I bought 8 new and 1 used.
"If I give the handle a sharp crank forwards, then there is an audible clunk and the increased resistance goes away and it all feels nice and smooth." I definitely have the clunk, but no noticeable resistance that I can feel in the handle.
IMHO, I think that's the way they are designed. I did notice that if I engage the lever by flipping it hard, it seems to engage easier. I guess if it always engages, then it's all good. Once it's engaged, there no problem whatsoever. I'm hoping that the condition dissipates over time as the reel wears, but it is a little annoying.
I haven't fished the reel yet, but that will change soon I hope.
Kevin
Thanks Kev, that is reassuring. Mine also seem to engage better if you give the free-spool lever a good hard flick when re-engaging the spool but this only helps some of the time.
I appreciate all of the help guys,
Mark
Can anyone tell me why the non metal washer, key 96, (black one) is a different material to all the other non metal washers in the drag stack. I noticed the same thing on my Mark 1 Triton.
No? Gee I thought someone here would know. OK, I`ll ask Shimano.
Thanks anyway.
yes i noticed that but who knows why ??? shimano definitely will give you an answer but for me it doesn't matter because i've changed mine to carbontex washers...
the old ones have canvas. not sure about new ones. i do not think it's a hard carbon washer like the ones in the old trinidads, but i don't think i've ever opened one up that had anything but canvas. either way, i just toss the stock washer and install carbon fiber also.
Thanks guys
Hey
So i recently got a tld 20/ 40 s from a friend who started having some trouble with it mostly due to lack of routine maintenance.
Anyways, so i took it upon myself to try and save the reel, after replacing necessary parts and the recommended ones i still have a problem.
The reel's been assembled, greased and lubed as required however it still makes a grinding sound which i think is eminating from the contact made between the drive gear and the pinion gear.
My question is, is this normal? If not, how do i get rid of the sound?
Any assistance in this regard would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Faldie
First check the handle side bearing for noise. You should open it up and see if it's corroded or not. Secondly have a look at the gears and check for any abnormalities (burrs, wear marks).
if it's a steady growl, check the gear teeth for evidence of wear. chances are you will find some.
Thanks for the responses.
The reel was used only thrice by the guy who gave it to me. He waded quite deep left the reel unattended to for a while which caused the washers to get seized together, which were subsequently replaced.
The gears look fine, no signs of corrosion. I've grease it as much as possible but the sound persists.
The drive shaft that the drive gear and all the washers go on to is quite "wobbly" before putting the gears and washers on to it. Is this normal.
The drive shaft is held in place with the little clip that slide over the bottom end of the shaft with a washer just beneath the clip. Is there anything missing there perhaps.
The sound is audible when you turn on the handle, you don't feel it when turning but the sound is there.
It's not excessive, should i ignore it? I'm just used a really smooth sound on my reels.
Thanks for the help guys.
bearings or gears..... :-\
Any assistance with this perhaps:
The drive shaft that the drive gear (main gear) and all the washers go on to is quite "wobbly" before putting the gears and washers on to it. Is this normal?
I see some wear on the pinion gear, not a lot. could that be the cause.
I'll replace it over the weekend, hopefully it solves my problem. If not, then i don't know. :'(
Thanks again ;D
The slight wobble on the drive shaft is normal when the reel is disassembled for maintenance.
Thanks
Started wondering if if another part or two went missing.
Hi all,
The names Chris. only just found this page and I am a first time poster!
Ive got a TLD star drag reel... It is a 'triton GT' stardrag reel.. but from what i have seen they are quite simular to the 15/30.
My only problem with the reel is that when in strike mode and i place it in the rod holder line will still come off the reel and the handle will spin backwards..Anti reverse must be gone. I cant ever put the reel down or use it for trolling as i have to keep the handle from going backwards which is frustrating at times. When i hold the reel with my hand on the handle it works fine and there is no problems
Does anyone know what could cause this problem?? Or knows how to fix this problem??
Thanks
Chris
Check the anti reverse pawl or the pawl spring. Part numbers 37 and 39
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/albums/userpics/TLD1530S_v1_m56577569830498879.pdf
Edit: On the first post of this thread check the 28th picture. It showes the pawl and spring pretty good.
Cheers SoCal ill give that a go tonight and let you's know how it goes.
Stripped it down and turned out out the reverse pawl wasnt seated correctly onto its groove. Easy fix just re-seated it and gave everything a light grease before reassemble. Good as new!
When targeting Tuna with a TLD 15/30s what size of tuna should I realistically using this for? Also how heavy of a line do you normally fish with this reel? I have two rod that I have in mind for pairing this up with. I hope you guys can give me some pointers.
Shimano Terez TZC80MH
Shimano Terez TZC70H
I'm going on a 1.5 day out of San Diego next week so I just want to be ready for if the bluefins are biting.
Thanks,
Dave
Dave, I've caught tuna up to 30 pounds on my 15/30 and it handled them with ease.
Hey Alan , thanks for the tutorial. I just serviced an old one I scored at a good price and it's the narrow model too. What surprised me was the size of the drag washers in this little reel.
You can easily put 40lb on this reel. Depending on the angler, you could catch 100lbers, if you have enough line. Of course, this depends on the angler. A friend of mine cought a 180lb bluefin on a Calstar 196-7, a ProGear Albie special, and 30#BG on a Tady. Almost spooled him a few times and he was 10 yrs. old. It really depends on the angler and if you can chase it down or not. If you can take 100-200 yds more on your reel, do it. It's not overkill.
Thanks for the tutorial and breakdown on these reels; I would have passed them up as some "old" reels, not fit for my needs, but I am going to get at least two for live bait fly-lining. How good is the casting ability with either reel, from an out of the box perspective, with a novice angler behind it? I have been looking at these for 20#-40# live bait setups, and with that you generally do not need to cast too far, the bait does or should do most of the work taking out line.
When it comes to surface jigging, how would either reel stack up with constant casts and re-casts? Smoothness, freespool, cast control?
Thanks again for the write-up on these gems.
they are great reels, and pauline has two for sale. then come with rods, though.
Quick question...The Shimano website has both versions of the TLD Star Drag gear ratio as 5.2:1, but when re-searching the reels, I have seen random comments in forums and websites listing the 20/40 model 4.3:1???
Is it misinformation being passed around, or was an older production model of the 20/40 once sold with a 4.3:1 ratio? Just want clarification, as the 4.3:1, if it exists, would be a reel worth searching for.
Tackle direct has the 20/40 listed as a 4.3:1 (typo maybe?), but the 20/40 reel pictured is labeled with 5.2:1.
Link:
http://www.tackledirect.com/shimanotldstar.html
it's probably a typo because my 20/40 which i bought used has 5.2:1 ratio...
I've never seen one in anything but 5.2:1 , just got mine spooled up. Even the narrow has a pretty huge capacity of 20lb braid.
Just picked up a TLD 20/40 two days ago, very satisfied and impressed; I see why Alan said the reel can handle 40-50# topshot. The reel is strong in many respects and the 20/40 is much more "beefy" than expected (In a good way). Paid close to retail for a used one (had to purchase a reel clamp separately, did not come with one), but it was near mint, came with fresh 30# Izo, and made in Japan. Normally I would be bothered with a near retail-priced purchase, but I am so satisfied with the reel that I cannot complain.
I initially bough the reel for a 30# setup, but it might be more suited for a 40#, reminds me of a Penn 3/0 in size comparison; fine 30# reel no doubt, but I feel the 15/30 is a better "sized" 30# reel. Really happy with my purchase, and will definitely be buying two more in the 15/30 model.
Going to upgrade the drag washers and add a bearing where the bushing is; have not fished it yet, but believe this is going to be one of my all-time favorite reels.
As mentioned before, I would have passed these up in the plethora of reels available if it had not been for the breakdown posted of this reel.
Thank you Alan!!!
-Scott
let me know when you're ready for a new handle arm!
Speaking of handles, here's a really nice Shimano factory handle that works great on 15/30's and 20/40's. I also have the same one on my Tekota 600. The Shimano part number is TGT0495.
I have a question regarding the spool shaft bushing. These reels seem to be almost exactly the same as the Shimano Speedmasters. (The 15/30 is similar to the old Speedmaster III, and the 20/40 similar to the Speedmaster IV). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but can you change out the spool shaft bushing with a Speedmaster bearing? Would that work? Or are they different sizes?
Quote from: Fishermanny on June 02, 2014, 06:34:17 PM
I have a question regarding the spool shaft bushing. These reels seem to be almost exactly the same as the Shimano Speedmasters. (The 15/30 is similar to the old Speedmaster III, and the 20/40 similar to the Speedmaster IV). Please correct me if I'm wrong, but can you change out the spool shaft bushing with a Speedmaster bearing? Would that work? Or are they different sizes?
Yes it is a straight swap,
I have been trying to purchase a couple of TLD Stars and being told by the dealers that the reel has been discontinued by Shimano. The reel is still listed on the Shimano website. Does anyone know if there is a direct high speed lightweight replacement for this reel?
i think they want you to buy the trinidad or the torium. guess the margin on the tld star was not high enough, plus guys were buying tld's instead of aluminum framed reels. it's all about the money. :-\
I used to have the first model Torium 20...put a lapped top metal washer from Jack Erskine in the drag, carbontex washers, and a spring on the dog.
I now have four 20/40s and one 15/30. The most dependable conventional reels I own.
I was afraid of that. I have owned both the torium and Trinidad but I prefer the Star for the kind of fishing I would use them for. I guess I'll stay tuned in on eBay.
I have a question about the side to side movement of the spool. How much is normal and when does it present a problem? I have a TLD 20/40 and a Speedmaster III, the TLD star as side to side movement of a 1/16" and the Speedmaster has zero movement.
Ok please disregard that question, I didn't realize that I had set the tension knob so loose. My second question is about the drag setting, I intend on using this reel for yellowfin in the Bahamas which range from 20-50lbs depending on the school. I use 50lb braid and 50lb leaders set at 12-15lbs of drag, are there any reports of these reels blowing up or cracking at 15-18lbs of drag?
I have 1 Shimano Stardrag 4gt and 2 Shimano stardrag 3GT, they really are one of the the best casting and durable shimano workhorses reels on graphite. I caught more than 40 lbs stringrays, i don't know if it pulls harder than a tuna, but it broke my lower end portion of the rod and still i managed to land the fish.
Copy paste this and paste on you tube search,,,another proof of Shimano 20/40 capabilities on sailfish.
you tube:
kayak fishing - two kayakers fighting sailfish, sailfish fights back.
Hope it helps your querries on the 20/40 reel power,,its not on tuna but on sailfish anyway.
Well I intend to put this TLD 20/40 through the paces in the bahamas. It's quite common to run into an acre of boiling tuna, usually blackfin and schoolie yellowfin but if I can get a bait or jig down hopefully a 50+lb yellowfin.
I had an old TLDStar 20/40s. I rebuilt this reel as Mr. Tani demonstrated. Thank you for that. I put the reel through the paces bottom fishing for grouper, snapper and jacks. Not a bad boat rod, but it seemed to lack about 1" or 2" in handle length. Has anyone tried a longer handle? I looked but did not see any handles with the weight thing on the other end of the handle. I seen the other handles Mr Tani showed but they all had weights and were the same length. Do I need a handle with a weight? Ideas on getting a longer handle.
Thanks to this forum which has helped with a few of my projects!!
M
These work well for me.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a601/george8322/TLD%20STAR%2020%2040_zpsgre9no1l.jpg)
Thank you. That was helpful. I will have to figure out a handle nut, keeper and screw when I get the handle in.
It is nice to rebuilt this old TLDStar 20/40s. Actually works much better that my other boat rods with Level Drag TLD single speed reels.
Mike
I need some help to find the problem on a 15/30 TLD star
the reel was bought by a friend and it was showing a lot of resistance to turn the handle and the spool spin for 2 sec on freespool, the main problem it was the most the star was tighten the most harder it was to turn the handle, it felt almost like it was a LD reel with bad bearing.
I cleaned everything inside really good, I even polished the brass bushing under the driveshaft (this normally works wonders on Torium reels), cleaned the bearings and add tsi321 oil to them.
the spool now spins really good on freespool and the handle feels a lot lighter than before, BUT that is only at 10# max, once you pass that drag mark the problem comes again, the more drag you add the bigger resistance on the handle to turn, its in the zone that if you tighten the drag all the way you can still turn the handle, on a nice fish you might not feel the resistance on the handle while fighting the fish but I know its not the way it should be, on star drag reels normally you can lock the drag and dont feel any resistance on the handle.
I really dont know what else I can check before delivering the reel to the owner, the reel looked that it was never serviced before so, I dont think its missing parts or small shims.
Are your 2 washers on either side of the bearing under the star, in this position?
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a601/george8322/P1030248_zpsxld8xga8.jpg)
yes, that appears correct.
Basto, I Will check That configuration tomorrow
Quote from: alantani on October 29, 2016, 03:28:12 AM
yes, that appears correct.
x2
btw i have a 20/40 J not M one of my faves! wish i was able to find a 15/30 'cuz i prefer narrower reels...
Quote from: steelfish on October 28, 2016, 07:56:36 PM
I need some help to find the problem on a 15/30 TLD star
the reel was bought by a friend and it was showing a lot of resistance to turn the handle and the spool spin for 2 sec on freespool, the main problem it was the most the star was tighten the most harder it was to turn the handle, it felt almost like it was a LD reel with bad bearing.
I cleaned everything inside really good, I even polished the brass bushing under the driveshaft (this normally works wonders on Torium reels), cleaned the bearings and add tsi321 oil to them.
the spool now spins really good on freespool and the handle feels a lot lighter than before, BUT that is only at 10# max, once you pass that drag mark the problem comes again, the more drag you add the bigger resistance on the handle to turn, its in the zone that if you tighten the drag all the way you can still turn the handle, on a nice fish you might not feel the resistance on the handle while fighting the fish but I know its not the way it should be, on star drag reels normally you can lock the drag and dont feel any resistance on the handle.
I really dont know what else I can check before delivering the reel to the owner, the reel looked that it was never serviced before so, I dont think its missing parts or small shims.
Doesn't make any sense unless the frame is cracked or flexing near where the gear stud is positioned, or is being pulled out of alignment if everything else is properly orientated. It seems that the only area it could be would be the inner or outer right side plate where the shaft comes through. Go over the stack again with a fine tooth comb to make sure everything is seated properly. Too thick drag washers? Underwear washer? But if that were the case the tighter you cranked the drag, the easier the cranking would become. Head scratcher for sure. How did you solve the problem?
Quote from: Hamachi on October 30, 2016, 04:11:03 AM
Head scratcher for sure. How did you solve the problem?
So far I havent
Bearing that Basto is pointing at ok?
Quote from: Potiguar on October 29, 2016, 09:56:22 AM
Quote from: alantani on October 29, 2016, 03:28:12 AM
yes, that appears correct.
x2
btw i have a 20/40 J not M one of my faves! wish i was able to find a 15/30 'cuz i prefer narrower reels...
Hi Potiguar
What is a J and an M model? How do they differ?
Basto
if my memory serves me right, 'cuz my 20/40 is in brasil, on the reel foot it says product of japan=J or product of malaysia=M. just trying to be efficient by typing less but sometimes better not to make short cuts. pardon for the confusion...
tight lines!
Potiguar = MeL B
Ahhhh....I see now. Thanks for your reply.
Basto
Hi,
Thank you for this really helpful tutorial, it's about time I'll get my TLD back into service.
I have a problem though, the handle nut thread seem to have eroded (it's made of brass) and I'm having trouble finding a replacement here in Australia (in a reasonable price).
I wondered if I can just replace it with a stainless fastener and if so, what will be the suitable thread?
Many thanks, Ido
It should be a standard metric thread.
I just managed to get, 2 nice looking, apparently lightly used 20/40's on ebay!! I haven't received them yet but they seem to be bone stock! As I am living in Central America, I want to order parts before I receive the reels. What do you guys recommend? I think I'll stick with the stock handle but I like the sound of upgrading to bearings and carbontex drags. What else? These will be used for trolling and livebaiting mostly inshore from Pangas but some offshore runs for Dorado thrown in there....
These will be my first ever reel projects - this site has inspired me along with this great tutorial!
you can order drag washer sets and drag grease from http://smoothdrag.com/ , bearings also.
Re Steelfish's problem with his reel I bought a used 20/40 a while back. I stripped it down and serviced it and it seemed OK.
When I put it in free spool with the drag right off the spool and handle spun freely as they should. However if I put it in free spool with the drag done up the spool still spun freely but the handle spun very slowly and stopped quickly. There was considerable resistance when I turned the handle manually with the drag done right up and the reel in free spool even though the spool was spinning freely. I thought perhaps the drive shaft was worn but replacing it didn't work neither did straightening a slightly bent yoke.
Looking at Alan's pictures in this post I suddenly realised that the spool shaft bushing (part 82) had been installed with the flange on the inside of the reel side plate rather than the outside. The previous owner must have done this and I didn't check this when I serviced it. I think this was affecting the alignment of the pinion gear with the main gear when the reel was in free spool: tightening the drag must have been moving the main gear down the drive shaft enough to touch the pinion gear perhaps. Anyway this fixed the problem and both handle and spool run freely now when the reel is in free spool and the drag done right up.
Just goes to show you should check everything when you service a reel!
Cheers
Tim
Thanks to everyone who puts time into all the tutorials.
Just finished servicing my old 15/30 and she is ready for another season.
I ordered a new set of drags and will install once they arrive.
Thanks again!
I'm confused about the replacement side plate screws for these reels. I've seen them designated as TGT20013 on a Shimano parts site but are all these screws the same size? And are the two additional right side ones the same as the four on the right and left? Are they different lengths, diameters or is it one size for all? Different sites refer to these by differing part numbers. The schematic in the tutorial indicates Not Found. Cheers...
here is the schematic. https://www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/Shimano_TLD_15_and_30S.pdf
as i recall, there are four matching short screws on the left side. there are four matching longer screws that are the same diameter on the right side. in addition, there are two really tiny matching screws on the bottom of the right side plate. so they are three different sets.
Thanks Alan. Checking Ebay suppliers for these as the Shimano parts site wants $6 just to ship three .99 cent screws. I just wanted one of each for back-up anyway. Will be starting my upgrade on a BNIB 15/30 soon. Cheers...
call shimano at 877-577-0600. alot of times they ship things like this for free.
My BNIB 15/30 order was cancelled by vendor as out of stock AFTER he charged my CC! >:(. So I'm considering a used Stardrag 3GT instead. BUT it's missing the clamp parts.
Will the generic Shimano RSC1C rod clamp kit be the right size? It's widely available. Cheers...
I ordered the clamps. Stand by for results...
Dawn at Smoothdrag is sending me the parts for my upgrade of a 3GT. But I was wondering if the Spool Shaft Bushing part #TGT0082 in the right side plate beneath the cast control cap can be replaced with a bearing. I'm not sure what size it is. OR, if this would be something of little added value.
hold off for now. your reel should be good to fish as is. let's see if you have any problems down the line before you start making changes.
Okay, thanks Alan.
Will the TGT0604 Torium handle fit these reels?
it should. double check that the hole is 5x8mm.
Some choices, but the Torium handle is the strongest.
(http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a601/george8322/TLD%20STAR%2020%2040_zpsgre9no1l.jpg)
Thanks Basto,
From what I can tell the parts needed for the Torium handle (TGT0604) are:
handle nut screw (BNT001, BNT0770, TGT0001, TGT0128)
11mm handle nut (BNT2680, TGT0262)
handle nut plate (BNT2679, TGT0261) known by various part numbers.
All this gets tricky and will cost $36! I'd hate to get the wrong parts.
Alan's handle is looking better! Cheers...
Yes, I'm sure Alan`s handle is a good one.
Basto
I just finished the upgrades on my Triton Stardrag 3GT. With the reel purchase on Ebay and three bearings replaced, drag washers plus Alan's handle; I have "invested" ~$150 in an "obsolete" reel resurrected from the 1980's! It was fun to do and I look forward to catching some decent fish on it. I'm not likely to ever sell it for what I put into it because not many anglers are wise to it's features and would just think it's another old fashioned reel. I've learned the kayakers and big cat fishermen do have high regard for these reels. And what a great ALBACORE reel-- what's that?
Later I'll spool it up with some line and see what kind of drag numbers I get. Maybe post a picture of it, looks great. Cheers...
The power handle assembly of the Fin-Nor LTC16 is also a fit.
Good to know. What size is the handle nut for the FinNor LTC16 handle that fits?
Apologies for the delayed response - I have no idea of the Fin-nor handle nut size as I have simply been using the Shimano 15/30 - 20/40 - Speedmaster handle nut, nut-plate and screw, of which I have a few as spares. I see that these have been discontinued.
Quote from: Craigen on June 04, 2018, 10:07:43 PM
My BNIB 15/30 order was cancelled by vendor as out of stock AFTER he charged my CC! >:(. So I'm considering a used Stardrag 3GT instead. BUT it's missing the clamp parts.
Will the generic Shimano RSC1C rod clamp kit be the right size? It's widely available. Cheers...
Don't know if this's relevant or not, but I've noticed on the big auction site that many reels are advertised for sale without the clamp assembly that they were originally sold with. Several times I've seen the same seller(reel sans clamp), offering the clamp parts separately.
Also, It seems like there's possibly good, or mostly good, reels disassembled, with the parts sold individually at a pretty high price.
i thought they came without clamps.... :-\
I own' t know. Bought a new TLD 15 in '14 and it came with a nice clamp.
In the above post, I 's thinkin mainly bout the "vintage" reels section of the "-Bay" and mostly Penns.
Ive seen Okuma handles that might fit very cheap at Tuna Troubles website.
Here's my new/old 3GT on a new Okuma Cortez 701HA rod I got for $58.
I got over 20# of drag off the reel with spring scale but that was with the star really buttoned. Strung up with a bend on this rod feels good even at high drag settings but not totally maxed. BTW, this Cortez rod kinda feels like a Phenix PSW 700H, not bad absent aluminum reelseat. Another picture:
I have 20 of the 20/40 reels in the shop from a charter boat. Every one of them needs a new drive shaft bushing. I hope Shimano has enough.
I own 3 myself but have never used them. They seem to be bullet proof.
Keith
So Keith, are those drive shaft bushings prone to failure or were these reels subjected to extreme abuse and/or lack of maintenance?
Quote from: handi2 on June 26, 2018, 10:14:50 PM
I have 20 of the 20/40 reels in the shop from a charter boat. Every one of them needs a new drive shaft bushing. I hope Shimano has enough.
I own 3 myself but have never used them. They seem to be bullet proof.
Keith
Won't the Trinidad drive shaft bearing fit if you can't find bushings?
Quote from: CapeFish on June 27, 2018, 07:53:40 AM
Quote from: handi2 on June 26, 2018, 10:14:50 PM
I have 20 of the 20/40 reels in the shop from a charter boat. Every one of them needs a new drive shaft bushing. I hope Shimano has enough.
I own 3 myself but have never used them. They seem to be bullet proof.
Keith
Won't the Trinidad drive shaft bearing fit if you can't find bushings?
Tearing down and cleaning/upgrading a 15/30. Any updates on these bushings? Would TSI301 treatment, and then some grease improve durability?
there is a bearing to match the bushing. just measure it and we can find one. i likely have a bunch.
Quote from: Craigen on June 26, 2018, 10:51:49 PM
So Keith, are those drive shaft bushings prone to failure or were these reels subjected to extreme abuse and/or lack of maintenance?
These reels have been rode way too hard over the years. The gears are fine. 8 of them the hole in the frame for the drive shaft bushing has gotten too large.
Your reels will be fine. When assembled the drive shaft bearing keeps the drive shaft stable.
Here is a picture of the worn out parts.
Got it, thanks!
Quote from: alantani on June 23, 2018, 03:15:05 PM
i thought they came without clamps.... :-\
You are correct Alan. They do come without clamps. I use Torium clamps and Penn clamps on mine.
Hello everyone. I have a dumb question. For the Key Washer "F" part # 0093, does the concave face the reel or does it face out towards the handle?? I cannot tell from the pictures nor the schematic.. Thanks.
I've put it toward the reel. 97 l 96 l 95 l 94 l 93 ) Others with greater knowledge might correct me but hope this helps you
cupped down! ;D
Thanks!
Quote from: Leviathan311 on July 10, 2018, 03:51:41 AM
Quote from: CapeFish on June 27, 2018, 07:53:40 AM
Quote from: handi2 on June 26, 2018, 10:14:50 PM
I have 20 of the 20/40 reels in the shop from a charter boat. Every one of them needs a new drive shaft bushing. I hope Shimano has enough.
I own 3 myself but have never used them. They seem to be bullet proof.
Keith
Won't the Trinidad drive shaft bearing fit if you can't find bushings?
Tearing down and cleaning/upgrading a 15/30. Any updates on these bushings? Would TSI301 treatment, and then some grease improve durability?
These bushings and the plastic handle nut plate are probably the only problem area on these old workhorses. There are two different type of drive shaft bushings, one has a E clip on the end and the other a small screw. I think the E clip was the better and more recent solution. If the the screw type, it needs loctite as it always works its way loose,
The attached photo shows the preferred handle nut plate, cheap, very effective and fits a variety of reels. The old plastic ones you may come to fetch for free ;D
These reels are still very much in use here so the parts should be available. I would try to use epoxy to replace the bushing in to the worn frame.
Just a quick question but is there a torque setting for the handle nut that holds the handle onto the brass drive shaft? Or how tight should that be? The plastic handle nut plate was cracked on mine when I received it so I guess I have a good excuse to upgrade the handle especially as I want to use that reel for Jigging(tld star 20/40) and bottom fishing.
It's amazing the difference in that reel just by changing out the spool shaft bushing for a bearing and putting in the Carbontex drag stack! I would never have thought this reel was worth looking at. To think I almost bought a new Torium before seeing this thread ::)
It's been more than a few years since I first saw this thread.
After purchasing a few on eBay, doing the upgrades, especially Alan's handle upgrade, I can honestly say this reel continues to amaze me in regards to torque, drag, casting, and simplicity. It is an absolute pleasure to fish, and I have turned quite a few of my Jigmaster weekend warrior friends onto the TLD 15/30 as well.
Handle nut must be tight but not so tight as to strip the thread. :D
I've never heard of a torque setting for those, it's a feeling you need which you get when you've stripped a few and after you've paid for the new shafts. I developed that when I was very young and those parts were very expensive.
Odd question:
Does everyone's clicker look misshapen? I came accross a killer deal on a barely used one, broke it down and did the recommended upgrades (still thinking about the better grip). Everything inside was absolutely mint (with dried grease). Only thing off was the clicker ring. Any input? It still functions, just took me by surprise how it wasn't a perfect ring.
Quote from: k1n on July 16, 2019, 12:15:28 AM
Odd question:
Does everyone's clicker look misshapen? I came accross a killer deal on a barely used one, broke it down and did the recommended upgrades (still thinking about the better grip). Everything inside was absolutely mint (with dried grease). Only thing off was the clicker ring. Any input? It still functions, just took me by surprise how it wasn't a perfect ring.
Would you please attach a picture to help us provide you with appropriate feedback?
Thank you.
(https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/pk15117/0BBA4B4A-AF1A-49A1-89B7-A4046FC41832_zpsxfi3lphb.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/pk15117/media/0BBA4B4A-AF1A-49A1-89B7-A4046FC41832_zpsxfi3lphb.jpeg.html)
Oh, I've seen a few of those conditions. It usually from guys that like reeling in with the clicker on for the excitement. It'll still work. If the asymmetry bugs you, bend each side with a needle nose pliers until it's symmetric.
Wow, learned something new. Thanks!
Wow, look at the wear on the click tongue as well. Almost certainly gets fished all the time with the clicker turned on.
So the plastic handle nut plate gave up the ghost and the retainer screw fell off sometime during a hot schoolie YFT bite.... was fun keeping the handle from falling off the 20/40! The other reel has not given me that issue. Where can I get a replacement(or upgrade) for this?
cheers!
Hi All
Does anyone know if the TLD-STAR 20/40S came out in a left handed version ?
Regards
AC49
I don't believe so.
Quote from: davidshelton on July 19, 2019, 04:27:11 AM
So the plastic handle nut plate gave up the ghost and the retainer screw fell off sometime during a hot schoolie YFT bite.... was fun keeping the handle from falling off the 20/40! The other reel has not given me that issue. Where can I get a replacement(or upgrade) for this?
cheers!
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17.msg295511#msg295511
I apologize if this has been answered somewhere and I can't find it. I have a 15/30 and a 20/40, both Japan made, that I've upgraded the drags and bearings on. Both of them are having the same issue. I'm only getting about 20-25 seconds of free spool out of each reel, basically the same as i was getting before i swapped out the bushing for the bearing. If I crank on the handle with the reel in free spool, the spool will start slowly spinning backwards. If I assemble the reel without the pinion gear installed, it will free spool forever. So this makes me think there is not enough clearance between the spool shaft OD and the pinion gear ID, and they are rubbing together.
Does anyone have suggestions on how to either open up the pinion gear thru-hole slightly or turn down the spool shaft slightly, or any other suggestions on how to maybe lubricate the parts to help them slide a little bit easier? I'm concerned about removing too much material and putting too much slop in the pinion gear which may make it not engage in gear properly.
Thanks,
Eric
How much grease went in there for a start? If it's slightly tacky grease it can definitely cause these parts to drag.
Next up I would get some extremely fine wet/dry sandpaper and polish the spool shaft, followed by the inside of the pinion gear - wrap the sandpaper around something like a Q-tip and then hold it stationary inside the gear and work the pinion gear between your fingers.
Quote from: boon on September 09, 2019, 11:32:55 PM
How much grease went in there for a start? If it's slightly tacky grease it can definitely cause these parts to drag.
No grease. There was a drop or 2 of CorrosionX on the spool shaft, but I cleaned that off trying to resolve the issue.
Quote from: boon on September 09, 2019, 11:32:55 PM
Next up I would get some extremely fine wet/dry sandpaper and polish the spool shaft, followed by the inside of the pinion gear - wrap the sandpaper around something like a Q-tip and then hold it stationary inside the gear and work the pinion gear between your fingers.
Thanks. Makes sense. I have some 2500 grit sandpaper I will start with.
Quote from: boon on September 09, 2019, 11:32:55 PM
How much grease went in there for a start? If it's slightly tacky grease it can definitely cause these parts to drag.
Next up I would get some extremely fine wet/dry sandpaper and polish the spool shaft, followed by the inside of the pinion gear - wrap the sandpaper around something like a Q-tip and then hold it stationary inside the gear and work the pinion gear between your fingers.
In my experience the friction between the spool shaft and the disengaged pinion is significant.
Polishing the shaft makes a big difference and a drop of very thin oil at the most!
It needs regular cleaning as grease from the gears does get on to the shaft. Use minimum grease!
These reels generally cast quite well and replacing the bush with a bearing has little noticeable effect. I replaced bushes with bearings a number of times but found little benefit. The Speedmaster comes out with a faster retrieve and extra bearing but is otherwise the same reel.
Yeah, polish the spool shaft and inside of the pinion gear to a mirror finish.
Thanks guys!
So, best way to polish? Fine grit wet sandpaper?
buffing compound and a dremel polishing bit for the spool shaft. to clean out the inside of a pinion gear, i've used an undersized drill bit or reamer.
Quote from: alantani on September 10, 2019, 08:41:44 PM
buffing compound and a dremel polishing bit for the spool shaft. to clean out the inside of a pinion gear, i've used an undersized drill bit or reamer.
Don't forget to wear eye protection . . .
Tight Lines !
Dave F.
Alan's EXCELLENT tutorial, in easy to download PDF format ( BELOW )
Tight Lines !
Dave F.
I did the rebuild and it works fine. But it has an annoying click with the retrieve, with the clicker on its even louder, anything to reduce this?
Are you perhaps referring to the clicking of the A-R pawl?
That is totally normal with this reel, in fact, if you do not hear it, you have a much more serious problem.
Here it is sitting as it engages the anti-reverse ratchet. The spring tension keeps it tight against the ratchet to prevent disengagement, and so the clicking noise comes from the pawl slipping over the ratchet "teeth" when retrieving.
AR system on this reel is one of its strong points, noisy as it is.
Here is Alan's article in PDF format,
SCHEMATICS, too !
https://www.planetseafishing.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/shimano/multiplier/tld-series/tld-star-tld20-40s(2005).pdf (https://www.planetseafishing.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/shimano/multiplier/tld-series/tld-star-tld20-40s(2005).pdf)
https://www.planetseafishing.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/shimano/multiplier/tld-series/tld-star-tld15-30s(2005).pdf (https://www.planetseafishing.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/shimano/multiplier/tld-series/tld-star-tld15-30s(2005).pdf)
Tight Lines !
Dave F.
I have 2 questions about the TLD star. One, does anyone know the nut size for the handle? Matching the threads seems to be a bit difficult. Second if anyone has used a Trinidad or Torium handle on their TLD Star which nut retainer did you use? The factory Trinidad one seems to be a touch larger than the TLD star factory nut.
jayde561 I just replaced a few 15/30 handles with Torium handles TGT0604, plates TGT0603 and nuts TGT0262. The stock 15/30 set screws work fine. Nice upgrade. I missed out on an upgraded 15/30 for a good price on another forum. I msg the seller and he passed on the info. Hope this helps.
Cheers
Most of these generation reels handles seem to fit. I have had to re drill and tap handle nut plate screws in the past. Replace the plastic nut retainer with the flat metal ones.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17.msg295511#msg295511
I did some EDITING to my posts and here is the 2024 version, for all to enjoy !
Tight Lines !
Dave F.
This is Alan's EXCELLENT Tutorial, in easy to download, save, and share PDF files !
Quote from: Faldie on February 07, 2013, 06:07:15 AMThanks for the responses.
The reel was used only thrice by the guy who gave it to me. He waded quite deep left the reel unattended to for a while which caused the washers to get seized together, which were subsequently replaced.
The gears look fine, no signs of corrosion. I've grease it as much as possible but the sound persists.
The drive shaft that the drive gear and all the washers go on to is quite "wobbly" before putting the gears and washers on to it. Is this normal.
The drive shaft is held in place with the little clip that slide over the bottom end of the shaft with a washer just beneath the clip. Is there anything missing there perhaps.
The sound is audible when you turn on the handle, you don't feel it when turning but the sound is there.
It's not excessive, should i ignore it? I'm just used a really smooth sound on my reels.
Thanks for the help guys.
Read a little in this old thread. I had a couple of TLD 20/40 in for service. Some of them had a grinding sound like the gears were bad. But it was the main gear touching the anti-reverse dog. The little drag washer between the anti-reverse ratchet and the main gear was compressed and worn out.
I noticed that you mentioned the washers was replaced. So this is just a tip for future use if anyone have grinding sound on their TLD 15/30 or 20/40.
thanks!!!
Quote from: Drisse on February 15, 2024, 03:04:45 PMQuote from: Faldie on February 07, 2013, 06:07:15 AMThanks for the responses.
The reel was used only thrice by the guy who gave it to me. He waded quite deep left the reel unattended to for a while which caused the washers to get seized together, which were subsequently replaced.
The gears look fine, no signs of corrosion. I've grease it as much as possible but the sound persists.
The drive shaft that the drive gear and all the washers go on to is quite "wobbly" before putting the gears and washers on to it. Is this normal.
The drive shaft is held in place with the little clip that slide over the bottom end of the shaft with a washer just beneath the clip. Is there anything missing there perhaps.
The sound is audible when you turn on the handle, you don't feel it when turning but the sound is there.
It's not excessive, should i ignore it? I'm just used a really smooth sound on my reels.
Thanks for the help guys.
Read a little in this old thread. I had a couple of TLD 20/40 in for service. Some of them had a grinding sound like the gears were bad. But it was the main gear touching the anti-reverse dog. The little drag washer between the anti-reverse ratchet and the main gear was compressed and worn out.
I noticed that you mentioned the washers was replaced. So this is just a tip for future use if anyone have grinding sound on their TLD 15/30 or 20/40.
Are you talking about the drag shaft washer TGT # 0100? If so, I'm trying to remember if it is included in the Carbontex replacement kit for this reel from SmoothDrag. I keep all the old drag washers I replace, so maybe I can find an old, non-overly compressed one...
Thanks!
Jzumi, yes TGT0100 👍