Well fellas, this one has been a long time coming. Some of the first photos were on a laptop that took a header and took awhile to recover and other photos were added more recently to cover needed details but here it is at last! ;D
The Okuma Komodo 350/364 represents their entry into a very exciting category of large baitcasting reels for the salt or freshwater. These reels with advanced cast controls and level line-winders make casting straight braid a breeze for even modestly skilled casters. Combine that with a capacity in this "350" size of over 200 yards of 50# braid and 10-12#'s of smooth drag (lock down over 20#) and you have an offshore capable light tackle reel that only weighs 11 oz...When you consider the very smallest star drag reels like the Trinidad 12 or Torque 15 weigh 14-17 oz and a standard 3/0 size reel is closer to 20 oz+...this class of large baitcaster gives you the smallest and lightest reels for big fish made that can really get it done.
We'll see that Okuma has packed a ton of value into this reel with an all Stainless drive train and made it every bit the equal or more of anything in this class that would include the Abu Garcia Revo Toro S, Daiwa Lexa 3-400 or Shimano Curado 300EJ.
Meet the Okuma Komodo 364:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4290/35805171846_6a1e71817b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYSa5)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/35845720235_7605f30390_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByFMe)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/35457723670_874a9fc714_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h6Vh)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4211/35805171906_1c33aa5905_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYSb7)
A Clicker, a very useful feature and one of the few of the large baitcasters that has one. Great for drifting a squid for WSB:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/35845707395_8cf1d19baa_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByBXR)
Nice and large flanges on the edges of the thumb button to help limit saltwater intrusion:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35805163676_cfcb26d21a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPJd)
Next to a Revo Toro NaCl for size comparison. The Komodo is a little taller and narrower but does have about the same capacity:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/35036094253_45e18ca80a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Vo29bz)
Next to a Shimano Tranx 500:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/35845944205_7e83c32bd7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WBzQmM)
And then a real Rogue's Gallery of Komodo, Revo Toro Beast and Tranx:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4206/35846008545_ea129dd8c0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WBAau6)
I think we got it covered! Feeshes beware! :).
Getting into the reel is via a standard method. Start by loosening the Thumb Screw (6). It may need some help when the reel is brand new:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/35457719490_c715337bb6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h5Fd)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4217/35845720185_2a4c488234_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByFLn)
Then giving the left side plate a clockwise twist:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/35713861131_1ca276cb19_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WpUSEp)
Exposing the adjustable centrifugal cast control on the Spool (4) and the Spool Cover Assembly (51) inside the Palm Side Cover (58):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35845720155_710c9171fc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByFKR)
Cast control on the Komodo is done by rotating the dial with a thumb nail. "0" being none and "6" being max.
The spool Ball Bearing (46) underneath the Spool Pinion (47) is held by an e-clip Retainer (45) and we want that off to properly service the bearing. Prepare your landing zone and carefully pop it off. We don't want to lose any bits.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35845699875_0d5e40c1fb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByzJc)
A second Retainer (48) supports this assembly but we'll leave that in place. The Spool Pinion is needed to "sync" the spool to the line guide so whenever the spool turns the line guide turns with it.
The Palm Side Plate houses the Spool Cover Assembly (50) held by three Screws (51). The raceway there for the brakes can be cleaned if needed and your brakes are howling:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4253/35805163486_5d359f4f2b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPEW)
We'll remove that to service the Click Claw (61) held by a Retainer (59). Careful and don't lose the small washer (60) if you remove it (not shown):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4287/35845706855_5b1ea78387_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByBNx)
The back of the Spool Cover Assembly is the white nylon Gear (53) that drives the Worm and we will oil the Collar (52) that it spins on:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/35845706495_73a1dba480_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByBGk)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35805162576_4575c27883_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPpf)
Its hard to photograph and show well but you will need a thin probe to get the Click Claw properly seated in the Click Leaf Spring (56) to button it back up:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/35845706085_3a6ef2481c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByBzg)
Back to the spool the Bearing itself has useless shields on them that will only trap saltwater inside them if it gets that far so we will remove them:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/35676670272_177ff9d487_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCg7G)P1030603_zpst0gjzxm0 (https://flic.kr/p/WmCg7G) by johndtuttle (https://www.flickr.com/photos/20496507@N07/), on Flickr
And replace it "open":
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35457714380_ccd9bb0529_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h4a7)
This allows us to more easily clean it, allows the regular application of a drop of our favorite speed lube and lets any saltwater that gets in dry, or get out again. Salt Crystals (dry) are more desirable than salt soup (salt + water = more rapid corrosion). :)
On the right side the Spool has the traditional Pin that retains that bearing. To remove the shields it has to come out with a pair of custom or purchased Spool Pin Pliers. I have one of the Hedgehog Studio tools for the job:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4261/35676670712_5ae5c6ab0f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgfh)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/35676670572_82dce231a2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgcS)
Off those shields will come as above and then a drop of oil:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/35457714860_2f65e391e7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h4io)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4260/35676670492_686d43cd09_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgbu)
When you are ready to replace the spool be sure to lube the spool shaft. This rotates inside the Pinion Gear and we want that to be smooth and fast:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35676668852_1cd1e6cdc7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfGd)
To open the main body of the reel the spool has to be left out so that we can access two Screws (22) and (38) that help keep the Gear Side Cover Assembly (8 ) in place. Note that (22) on the left is smaller than (38) on the right when it is time for them to go back:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4240/35805171516_2f8da13431_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYS4o)
Then on the outside there is another bigger Screw (38):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4217/35007488374_8842a068b4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VkuwDL)
And then another smaller Screw (22):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4237/35007493044_8d00747998_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Vkuy3h)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/35805170396_38a85d7694_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYRJ5)
Hopefully this will help guide you when it is time to close the reel. Otherwise it is a pit of a puzzle and the smaller ones like to get stuck in the bigger one's slots. :(
To proceed off must come the Handle Arm Assembly (83):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4206/35457714320_45f020d63c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h495)
All very standard stuff laid out in order:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/35676668542_7f0bc37c54_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfAS)
From R to L above the Nut, Retainer and Screw (89, 90, 91). The Handle Arm Assembly (83). The hard to see Washer (82) between the Handle and Star Drag Assembly (81). Then a "fibrous" Du-Washer (80) and two Spring Washers (79 that sit inside the Leaf Spring Assembly (78). Finally two small but important spacing Washers (77).
Once inside we get a look at the stainless steel main gear. The Pinion (12) is hardened is Brass my understanding. This leads to the current version (Komodo SS) that uses an all SS drive train:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4290/35805166676_e731a83966_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYQBW)
It should be noted that this was an image taken during re-assembly and in fact the reel was quite dry of grease, not that SS would need much.
The Carbon Fiber drag stack was dry so it got some Cal's:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4286/35845701085_41e016d38d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByA64)
The SS Drive Gear (71) well greased:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4241/35676673372_a2352735a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCh39)
Under the Drive Gear we have the fibrous Washer (70) and Ratchet (69) with it's single Stopper Assembly (20) that is an Abu style eared Dog for back-up anti-reverse:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4280/35457718000_b097669a0b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h5ew)
A view from the other side for reference:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4213/35676666072_32a604e8fb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCeSh)
With the Ratchet off we can get to the Bearing Plate (66) and two screws (27, removed) which really holds the "Holy Grail" of this service. Note the positioning of it next to the Plate (98) and Screw (99) which is required to get them to fit together:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4263/35676673562_d6f852bd5d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCh6q)
The Holy Grail is the shaft Ball Bearing (65) held on by a Retainer (64). Nearly all modern star drag reels use this system of support for the main shaft, and it is a good system, but this is one of the most likely bearings in the reel to be destroyed by salt as it sits in a "sump", or really a salt water bathtub if any saltwater gets inside. This is a low spot in the right side where saltwater inevitably collects and a proper pre-service of this bearing will save long term hassles. If you open any one of the reels that use this method (Abu, Daiwa, Penn, Shimano et al) and see any corrosion anywhere this bearing is usually a victim too and must be checked.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/35845699495_48bbe41b35_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByzBD)
I removed the shield, it had a clip but really too small to mess with:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4207/35676669422_8b342dbd01_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfS3)
Pack with Grease:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4266/35805166326_bde70623e1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYQvU)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/35457706160_61161f284d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h1Ho)
Then well grease the receptacle:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4232/35676669272_f3bf3ec068_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfPs)
This grease will still protect the bearing when saturated with saltwater for a very long time (up to months). And I would much rather have a puddle of soggy grease to clean out later than a bearing frozen in the reel, locked up from corrosion, and pits in the frame from it's sitting in a salt bath. :(
And then plug it back in looking like this:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4265/35457720730_7d01d7df90_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h63A)
Now we can get at the bearings on the worm by removing the Plate (98) and Screw (99):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4232/35457706740_98c2d64e6c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h1To)
That comes off with a small Washer (25) and Bushing (25) and Retainer (26) really an e-clip:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4287/35676671372_99ec88a8b6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgrE)
And then the group minus the Bushing
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4230/35457716170_86e0125c29_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h4FY)
We should remove the "Lever" (level) Wind Pin (27) keeping an eye peeled for the Washer (28) under the "Lever" (level) Wind Cap (29):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4206/35457706800_87a6ae1912_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h1Uq)
The Worm Shaft Assembly (35) actually is now free to slip out the Palm Side so that we can service the Bearing (32) positioned by a Retainer (34):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/35005565704_a2894e32a9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VkjF7h)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4281/35676671532_dc3ac5b5c1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCguq)
What I am not showing is the other Bearing (30) on the right side that supports the Worm. I hope the gentle reader will forgive a lack of an image. Somehow I neglected to photograph it when in there and, shall we say, not so motivated to go back in at the present time. ;)
The way I am currently taking care of these worm bearings is with oil as I feel grease attracts too much dirt. Keeping your worm well oiled is key and it will "feed" either oil or salt towards these bearings as a natural consequence of the action of the pawl. I also leave the shields "on" as a measure of protection from dirt which they would be prone to collect otherwise being relatively exposed to schmutz from the worm. Anyways, that is what I am doing for now and welcome other's input as to what they find works.
Take extra care getting the last Retainer (26) on when done. Its a tight fit so don't wreck your e-clip.
Ok, we can take a look at the back side at the the Gear Side Cover Assembly (8 ). The one way clutch there is pressed in so a light oil or light grease is all we can do unless in extremis. By applying some Corrosion-x to the Sleeve (76) we can spin it around in there and get out most dirt and old lube. Corrosion-X cuts old grease and rust very well and if your sleeve looks clean after spinning it in there generally the clutch is good to go:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/35457718760_52ba4c2302_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h5sC)
The Ball Bearing (10) that supports the Pinion and retained by a Ring (11) should only be approached from this side. In this case I oil from the outside because the shields protect the bearing from contamination with grease from the outside of the pinion. We want this bearing to spin freely as it may affect casting. Remember however, the spool shaft runs inside the pinion (does not actually touch the bearing) and you want the inside of the pinion oiled for best casting:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4258/35457718450_0ffd764a0e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2h5nh)
On the other side we have the clicker assembly beneath the Tension Knob (1, removed). DO NOT PROCEED AND REMOVE THAT RETAINING RING (97) UNLESS YOU HAVE NO FEAR LOL. ;D
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/35805165346_675960a7d7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYQe1)
You can easily get some oil of your choice onto the bearing from this side and note the end of the Pinion with the Spool Shaft poking through it. They like oil too.
Seriously, if you now remove that Retainer spring clip you get into territory where Angels Fear to Tread and there are some tiny bits in there *GUARANTEED* to get lost and with a tricky re-assembly. Proceed only if absolutely needed:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4282/35676669732_5d306ecf31_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfXo)
I won't even tell you what I really called them other than they remind me of Little Nicky (son of Satan/coil spring) and Lucifer (Satan/clicker) >:(! Pray that heaven answers your prayers and that you have been diligent in oiling these parts and have no need to proceed. A little grease on the threads of the Tension Knob (1) and it should be well protected by the O-Ring (5).
If you must be sure to get some nice tacky grease to hold the Coil Spring in place before you try to get the Clicker nubbin inside. Then the Click Plate (94) must be positioned "just so" to nest and the Retainer (95) replaced. Screw up and parts go SPROING into the nether. So tiny they get lost in the towel in front of you...
Ask me how I know this >:(. At least Okuma was nice enough to send replacements out for free!
;D
Ok, getting the reel back together is mostly a reversal of the above steps with one key pitfall: With grease on the Drag Washers you run into a little tolerance issue with the fit of the stack inside the Drive Gear:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/35713860891_cdee1073d4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WpUSAg)
The Stack fits, but can be easily bumped out of position like shown in the image above ruining the performance of your drag. This can also occur when the Star is backed all the way out and the reel gets a knock. Remember, I said there were two very important Washers (77) and when you go to put the handle back on they are shims to take up a little space to prevent this by keeping the stack under a little pressure. You will find that getting all your ducks in a row and then carefully closing the reel with a minimum of jostling and fuss with the reel on it's palm side will keep your Stack in place.
Ok, back we go:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4231/35005565524_d06af2ae79_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VkjF4b)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/35676669032_3e39f0dc93_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfKj)
Cap your clutch like so to prevent salt intrusion:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/35676668752_cfcab45836_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfEu)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/35805165226_cd954d9a78_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYQbW)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/35805163876_e89d5b706f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPME)
The two washers (77) with the Sleeve (75) poking out of the clutch:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/35676668702_a1151929b8_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfDC)
Make sure your Spring Washers (79) go like so ():
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4258/35676668382_fd29188303_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCfy7)
Plenty of grease:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/35805164556_421d060afe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPZo)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4216/35805164116_ae12e78c0d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPRN)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/35805163876_e89d5b706f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WxYPME)
To service the Handle Arm Assembly (83) we have 2 Bearings (85) for *each* knob with a Washer (84) under the bottom Bearing. This one on the bottom is notorious for failing due to corrosion in any reel that uses bearings. What I do is liberally flood them with oil (the shields are too small to remove):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4265/35845700755_ff801689dc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByzZn)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4257/35676672272_265e357347_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgHb)
Then grease over the outside (the bottom one needs even more). You knobs may not spin as fast as before but the grease is not noticeable when fishing:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4282/35845700545_9fc9b871bc_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByzVK)
Then the Screw (87) that needs a touch of Blue Loctite. I wish they would use a lock washer of some type however. Wishful thinking ;). The Factory Loctite is supposedly good for a few services:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4279/35676671892_b476539dfd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgAC)
Ok, that is what I have for the moment. Phew! ;)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, well these reels are exciting to me as they have opened up using conventional reels for many purposes casting lures where other conventional reels fall short or are extremely challenging. With magnetic or centrifugal cast controls, levelwind line lay and powerful drags they are now ideal for casting straight braid 20-80#, depending on application from bassin' at the lake to schoolie tuna in a very light (11 oz) package that would have been severely limited by mono in the past. There is no denying that braided lines have led to the development of these little power houses.
Clearly there have been decades of success casting mono in the SoCal bight using surface iron, Wahoo bombs and jigs and the like with standard conventional star drag reels...but those relatively heavy and dense lures are more amenable to cast control with just an educated thumb but are still cast with straight mono topshots and consequently require much larger and heavier reels, generally. Introduce poppers, lipped hard baits, swim baits, spooks and such and suddenly casting them is more possible with advanced braid-friendly reels with line management tools.
Combine that with just enough capacity for the job, massively large gears (Komodo Drive Gear is 40mm) and you get remarkably powerful cranking power in a very small package even with a 6.4:1 retrieval rate...Which may seem fast but remember, the Drive Gear is bigger in diameter as the Spool even when totally full...That main gear is larger in diameter than that of a 4/0 Senator but the height of the Komodo's spool is only about 1/2 that of a traditional 4/0...Those larger gears with consequently tougher teeth also enable the use of power handles and the gears are strong enough to withstand some heavy cranking. They are truly small reels for big fish. :D
There is a reason why the Bass Pros use this style of reel. The small spool is very light weight making the casting of very light baits to heavy artificials a breeze and the cranking power is second to none for their size and weight.
As compared to other large baitcasters in this size we have to give the Komodo props for a tough SS gear train at the expense of a little more maintenance worry with a worm and line guide synced to the spool and the bearings required (10 plus roller bearing in total for this reel). But all in all a totally worthy competitor in this segment that anyone should be proud to fish. :)
Oh yeah, they cast a live bait great too. Arguably among the most "do it all" of conventional reels for light tackle saltwater made in this modern era.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4239/35676672762_1698d93dd9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WmCgRC)
Lexa 400, Revo Toro NaCl 60 and Komodo 364 for size comparison. Capacities are essentially the same:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4210/35461360280_dab94a82fb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W2AJXs)
Some feedback on BD Outdoors from guys fishing this reel:
http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/threads/any-first-hand-review-on-komodo-364p.584487/
best regards :)
ps Komodo 450 (on the left) will be released around ICAST 2016 in July (photo courtesy of Okuma):
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/35036094423_83817453f2_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Vo29ev)
Prototype Komodo 450 in action at Cedros Island:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4236/35457705920_84ee5e3699_b.jpg)[/url (https://flic.kr/p/W2h1Df)
Very well done review and tutorial John.
I like the comparison pictures to similar size models from other brands, helps people evaluate their respective choices.
I know these well done, detailed tutorials take some time and effort to put together, but they can really influence a person's perception and decision on a reel, making them understand and have trust in what they may be interested in buying.
Thank you for posting this John.
-Scott
Quote from: sundaytrucka on March 23, 2016, 03:39:28 AM
Very well done review and tutorial John.
I like the comparison pictures to similar size models from other brands, helps people evaluate their respective choices.
I know these well done, detailed tutorials take some time and effort to put together, but they can really influence a person's perception and decision on a reel, making them understand and have trust in what they may be interested in buying.
Thank you for posting this John.
-Scott
You are very welcome Scott and it wasn't hard to do once starting the write up. But as I think you are aware the write ups take some time with extra photos taken etc etc it can be hard to get started....But the innards of the Black Box are very useful for the owners or prospective owners to see. Hopefully they pick up a tip or two and, if even only from the outside, get a drop or two of oil in those key spots so that they will enjoy their reel longer.:)
The Komodo is totally worthy, really a credit to the Okuma Engineers.
Some day they will make real "tanky" versions...could you imagine what you could do with a Makaira weight frame and sideplates in a low profile reel? :D
We'll get there someday as lines get thinner and thinner.
Anyways, I know you have worked on these reels a lot by now. Please share any other tips you may have or trick etc.
best
Excellent tutorial John, but it doesn't surprise me coming from you.
Great detailed pics, I feel as I was holding that reel in my hands.
Lots of goodies in that little reel, it must be a pleasure to use.
Thanks for doing this for us.
By the way, where did you get the no mar plier?
Sal
Great post John. Thanks for the time and effort to share with us.
I am no expert, but do consider myself proficient with bait casters. What I have read, and what I always practice, is to keep the inside of the pinion gear and spool shaft absolutely clean and dry. No oil, as that slows the spool speed, and casting distance.
You mention that you recommend oiling the spool shaft, and in turn the inside of the pinion gear. Is this something you do with all bait casting setups, or only those that are used in saltwater applications ?
Appreciate your advice and thoughts.
Thanks again.
Terry.
Quote from: Zimbass on March 23, 2016, 02:48:45 PM
Great post John. Thanks for the time and effort to share with us.
I am no expert, but do consider myself proficient with bait casters. What I have read, and what I always practice, is to keep the inside of the pinion gear and spool shaft absolutely clean and dry. No oil, as that slows the spool speed, and casting distance.
You mention that you recommend oiling the spool shaft, and in turn the inside of the pinion gear. Is this something you do with all bait casting setups, or only those that are used in saltwater applications ?
Appreciate your advice and thoughts.
Thanks again.
Terry.
Definitely a Saltwater thing. The long travel of the spool shaft inside the pinion is one that oil can slow down spinning ergo lessen casting distance. But in the salt environment the dis-similar metals need protection more, imo. Left with salt contamination and stored for some time the spool shaft will definitely seize in there or cause other trouble getting the reel in and out of gear that begins to beat up parts. I often lightly polish the inside of the pinion with fine steel wool wrapped around a drill bit (just by hand, no power) to keep the inside burnished but remain in tolerance.
In freshwater, the difference in hardness between the two metals is probably enough and corrosion is rarely a worry.
All in all when you do use a fast oil the distance loss is minor and the protection gain in the saltwater environment is totally worthwhile, imho. Most people just will naturally use less brake and end up with the same distance or an un-noticeable loss.
best
Quote from: Alto Mare on March 23, 2016, 10:08:24 AM
Excellent tutorial John, but it doesn't surprise me coming from you.
Great detailed pics, I feel as I was holding that reel in my hands.
Lots of goodies in that little reel, it must be a pleasure to use.
Thanks for doing this for us.
By the way, where did you get the no mar plier?
Sal
Thanks Sal!
The pliers I seem to recall getting off of Amazon but they came directly from a supplier in Japan.
Someday, for casting lures, you gotta try one of these little powerhouses. That Drive Gear is larger than one on a Senator 4/0...these reels have some serious guts. ;D
best
Quote from: johndtuttle on March 23, 2016, 03:43:18 PM
Quote from: Zimbass on March 23, 2016, 02:48:45 PM
Great post John. Thanks for the time and effort to share with us.
I am no expert, but do consider myself proficient with bait casters. What I have read, and what I always practice, is to keep the inside of the pinion gear and spool shaft absolutely clean and dry. No oil, as that slows the spool speed, and casting distance.
You mention that you recommend oiling the spool shaft, and in turn the inside of the pinion gear. Is this something you do with all bait casting setups, or only those that are used in saltwater applications ?
Appreciate your advice and thoughts.
Thanks again.
Terry.
Definitely a Saltwater thing. The long travel of the spool shaft inside the pinion is one that oil can slow down spinning ergo lessen casting distance. But in the salt environment the dis-similar metals need protection more, imo. Left with salt contamination and stored for some time the spool shaft will definitely seize in there or cause other trouble getting the reel in and out of gear that begins to beat up parts. I often lightly polish the inside of the pinion with fine steel wool wrapped around a drill bit (just by hand, no power) to keep the inside burnished.
In freshwater, the difference in hardness between the two metals is probably enough and corrosion is rarely a worry.
All in all when you do use a fast oil the distance loss is minor and the protection gain in the saltwater environment is totally worthwhile, imho. Most people just will naturally use less brake and end up with the same distance.
best
Thanks for the response John.
Cheers.
Terry.
Here's some photos of the new Komodo SS 471P that has new cosmetics and an all SS drive train. The design is essentially identical to the original Komodo for the parts we might work on and so there really is no need for a new tutorial:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4205/35713861331_009b2652af_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WpUSHR)P1120185_zpsjanny1v2 (https://flic.kr/p/WpUSHR) by johndtuttle (https://www.flickr.com/photos/20496507@N07/), on Flickr
Has a Clicker:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35036094603_ff2ca7d751_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Vo29hB)
Huge 54mm Main Gear and SS Pinion.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4278/35713861581_b9b62b7932_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WpUSNa)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4285/35036094883_7d14bc61e7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Vo29nr)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4287/35845697135_c0285d2706_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByyUX)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4286/35713861681_8e152d6acb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WpUSPT)
A simpler method for adjusting the centrifugal brakes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4209/35845705025_536dfd4ef3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByBfZ)
Still a very compact reel in the hand:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/35845705505_f58bd1ef5c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WByBpg)
:)
Has anyone done actual drag measurements on the komodo 35 or 450 size?
I just bought one of each, and lockdown straight from reel is 10 and 12.
I have seen mentions of as low as 8 and 10, (350/450).
Tackle tours is close to what i have.
Since i bought the 450 for yellowfin in the GOM (which means 60-80 avg in winter,
some much larger) i was hoping to pull a nice 15lbs since the rating is 30 max.
Curious if anyone else has put a drag scael on them.
After contacting Okuma, i had a quick reply, but disappointing conversation with a rep.
(you must pull on the line, not the reel, the line moves, the reel stays stationary when measuring
drag.. Hmm... thought Newton settled that argument long ago).
Your line might be spinning on the spool, i caught nice fish with the reel, it must be ok, etc....
Thus my checking with others to see if they got an actual 25+ lbs (meaning my brand new reel
might be slim on drag shim), or if 12 is the status quo.
BTW: Thanks John! I already went though and salt protected the 350 size, your review pics much appreciated.
for increased drag replace the fibrous Washer (70) with larger OD from carbon.
Quote from: Wolli on December 20, 2016, 09:45:05 AM
for increased drag replace the fibrous Washer (70) with larger OD from carbon.
Did what Wolli suggested to 2 Old Style Okuma Catalinas from 2007 that have a similar drag system in them and pulled around 24/25 at lockdown.
I've noticed in a lot of the tutorials that regular grease is used on the fibre washer under the drive gear. I assume it doesn't matter as I see it all the time here but does it not make a difference in comparison to using drag grease. Is it irrelevant because of the drag materials?
Quote from: Lunker Larry on December 20, 2016, 05:49:45 PM
I've noticed in a lot of the tutorials that regular grease is used on the fibre washer under the drive gear. I assume it doesn't matter as I see it all the time here but does it not make a difference in comparison to using drag grease. Is it irrelevant because of the drag materials?
It depends greatly on the "regular" grease used...and the material the washer is made of.
Commonly the under gear washer is a non-drag producing washer and yes, any old grease is fine as the washer itself is slick. If you want it to function smoothly as a drag washer then drag grease is best. Regular petroleum based greases eventually dry out, can leave lumps, and can lead to a sticky drag.
John
I recently sold my lexa 300 hsp (1st gen) to get me a different lowprofile baitcasting reel.
debating between this one on the 364 size or the new tranx 300, can you give me your opinion comparing this both reels?
-- I was actually thinking on getting the 471 komodo or tranx 400 but sometimes I want to use something light to cast light lures to cabrillas (bass on steroids) and the normal lures to cast are on the 1/2oz to 1oz weight.
for a baitcasting reel on 400 size I still happy with my calcutta 400TE, maybe old school by now but works wonders on the rocky zones in Gonzaga bay (north sea of cortez)
Quote from: steelfish on June 06, 2017, 05:03:31 PM
John
I recently sold my lexa 300 hsp (1st gen) to get me a different lowprofile baitcasting reel.
debating between this one on the 364 size or the new tranx 300, can you give me your opinion comparing this both reels?
-- I was actually thinking on getting the 471 komodo or tranx 400 but sometimes I want to use something light to cast light lures to cabrillas (bass on steroids) and the normal lures to cast are on the 1/2oz to 1oz weight.
for a baitcasting reel on 400 size I still happy with my calcutta 400TE, maybe old school by now but works wonders on the rocky zones in Gonzaga bay (north sea of cortez)
I think for your fishing a Komodo SS is a better choice or a Lexa HD...both all stainless gearing on the inside.
The Brass gearing of the Shimano will not hold up as well. Not yet convinced the sealing in the areas the new Tranx is sealed are all good choices....certainly sealing the AR bearing is good....but trying to seal the spool....not convinced its better...the x-ship bearing is going to still get wet and now, not drain as well....
thanks John, that helped a lot.
I was 90% set my mind on the okuma 364 but helped with the other 10%
Quote from: Wolli on December 20, 2016, 09:45:05 AM
for increased drag replace the fibrous Washer (70) with larger OD from carbon.
excellent tip, I will put a note to myself to get one this size on my next scott's tackle order or smoothdrag order and swith it on my reel.
8*22*1
I got a terrific deal on one of the original Komodo 364 models and I couldnt resisted, its a lefty, so time for put my right brain hemisphere to work.
just bought a spare handle to install a makaira small T-bar knob on it, I saw that mod on another place and wanted to try it, it looks killer, good thing is if my chance I dont like it I still have my stock power handle and can use the T-bar knob somewhere else.
If the reel in this tutorial were mine the first thing I would do is make Carbontex washers that fit the main gear fully. Especially the last one up top. Having them fit the main shaft would be much better.
K
Quote from: handi2 on January 27, 2018, 12:21:44 AM
If the reel in this tutorial were mine the first thing I would do is make Carbontex washers that fit the main gear fully. Especially the last one up top. Having them fit the main shaft would be much better.
K
but you have to find another metal washer, look the 2nd metal washer, its also "narrow" on width, it wont put pressure on a drag washer with more meat.
I gotcha.
I would still do it so the last carbon washer would stay put.
I bought one in December and haven't opened it up. Its a smaller KDR-273VLX. Left hand model. I cant work a rod with my left hand. I tried it. Grew up using spinning reels.
Quote from: steelfish on January 27, 2018, 12:41:05 AMbut you have to find another metal washer, look the 2nd metal washer, its also "narrow" on width, it wont put pressure on a drag washer with more meat.
I might know someone that can make full OD metal washers ;D. I will soon have a KDS-463LX to measure and will see if Okuma will supply me with a washer for KDS-364. Dawn should have CF washers that can be re-formed.
Quote from: Keta on January 27, 2018, 01:46:55 AM
Quote from: steelfish on January 27, 2018, 12:41:05 AMbut you have to find another metal washer, look the 2nd metal washer, its also "narrow" on width, it wont put pressure on a drag washer with more meat.
I might know someone that can make full OD metal washers ;D. I will soon have a KDS-463LX to measure and will see if Okuma will supply me with a washer for KDS-364. Dawn should have CF washers that can be re-formed.
I might know the same person ;D
But yours is KDS-463 which is bigger than KDS-364, so.. I might send you the measures of the metal washers for the 350 size
On Monday I will order 1 each 5K325401, 5K325601, 5K238501 and 5K238401 metal drag washers for both the KDS-463 and KDS-364 reels. Send me the OD of the keyed washer and the shaft diameter.
Now I am confused. Are you going to increase the OD of some/all of the metal drag washers, decrease the ID of the fiber washers, or both?
BTW, I recently picked up a new Komodo 463. The star was floppy from being cross theaded with aluminum shavings all over the shaft, and the machining on the handle was off, leaving lips from the chamfer that were razor sharp. I had some trouble finding a live USA support number for Okuma. Eventually found it on alantani.com :)
But once I called Okuma, I was quickly connected to a knowledgable support person. They immediately offered to exchange the reel, but I just wanted a replacement star and handle. New parts in my mailbox three days later.
Still ambivalent about the size/weight and ergonomics on this reel.
I personally would be a bit nervous about putting an under gear drag washer on this reel. The clearance for the leaf of the silent dog needs to be maintained. I want a stiff thrust washer with the correct thickness that is not going to compress or shred over time, as has happened with CF undergear washers on some other reels. Maintaining reliability and getting proper thrust bearing behavior is more important than another pound or two of drag for me.
I would leave the under gear washer alone.
Quote from: Keta on January 27, 2018, 03:19:27 AM
On Monday I will order 1 each 5K325401, 5K325601, 5K238501 and 5K238401 metal drag washers for both the KDS-463 and KDS-364 reels. Send me the OD of the keyed washer and the shaft diameter.
Lee, this are the OD and ID measures of the metal washers
thickness: 0.71mm or 1/32 "
OD : 33.86mm or 1.3 33"
my bad, I took the readings of the main gear ID instead of the square ID of the keyed washer.
on mm and inches, make your pick
last ones
I finally got into the small Komodo I have and sure enough the top carbon washer had a lip on the outside edge where it was sticking further out than the main gear and top metal washer. I punched a full size carbon washer that fits the main shaft. This will keep it in place.
Thanks Alex, I will get some CF washers ordered. The metal washers should be here Monday.
I just got the metal washers for the Komodo KDS-463 and KDS-364 from Okuma, wow the KDS-463 drag is huge. I will try to get some metal washers cut and Dawn has 2 Carbontex washers that will work without modification, #54 for the KDS-364 and #67 for the KDS-463.