okuma makaira 8 II rebuild - 3/4/2011
Quote
makaira 10 II - field test results, 8/22/2010 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1141.0)
"...all we need now is a narrowed makaira 8 II for 50# spectra and a 40# topshot."
august, 2010
i would not have believed it unless i saw it with my own eyes. even now, it's still a little hard to believe. i fished with the makaira 10 II last august and commented that a narrow version of the makaira 10 would make a great reel. keep the same side plates and base. all you'd need is a narrow frame, a narrow spool and a shorter spool shaft. that would be it!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_08_39_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_08_44_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_08_56_0.jpeg)
i understand that there are 6 functional prototypes. the only one in the US is #004. for this tutorial, i will be using the part numbers on the makaira 10 schematic #1090KM03901100, dated 11.02.09.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_08_50_0.jpeg)
from this angle, it is indistinguishable from the makaira 10 and 15.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_01_0.jpeg)
a few years ago, i would not have considered a clicking drag knob assembly (key #600) to be critical. i do now. the clicking drag lever assembly (key #605) is nice, but not critical. i like it, though.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_11_0.jpeg)
you have your choice of plugs (key #108) or lugs (key #108-1). older fishermen (like me) will appreciate this option.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_14_0.jpeg)
straight out of the box, this reel had only 15 seconds of freespool. we will fix that. let's start by pulling the left side plate screws (key #930-1196) using a no. 10 torx bit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_18_0.jpeg)
the left side plate assembly (key #300) already has a nice coat of corrosion x HD and the screws are already greased.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_24_0.jpeg)
now pull the right side plate screws (key #930-1196).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_27_0.jpeg)
unscrew the drag knob assembly (key #600).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_06_0.jpeg)
four pieces, quick and easy.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_33_0.jpeg)
there's nothing to do with the left side plate (key #300), so let's set it aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_38_0.jpeg)
the body foot (key #102) has four screws with blue stuff on it. let's grease the screws and move on.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_46_0.jpeg)
that's it for the frame (key #100). set it aside with the left side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_51_0.jpeg)
now for the spool assembly. the spool (key #400) has four screws (key #930-096) holding the water proof cover (key #405). out they come!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_09_56_0.jpeg)
remove the two screws (key #930-1052) holding the ratchet gear (key #401).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_50_0.jpeg)
spread out the parts.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_01_0.jpeg)
WARNING! there are four small springs (key #204-4) on the left side of the spool. either tack them down with a bead of grease or set them aside in a happy place so you can find them later. otherwise, you could lose one and spend 10 minutes looking for it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_06_0.jpeg)
set aside the thrust bearing assembly (key #910-430). i do not belive that this bearing affects freespool but will opt not to pack it with grease at this time. if this bearing fails, then we will know that this decision was wrong.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_11_0.jpeg)
remove the drag washer retainer (key #608).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_15_0.jpeg)
the drag washer assembly features a carbon fiber drag washer (key #611) sandwiched between two stainless steel key washers (key #612). the drag washer already has a coat of cal's grease. if you find excess in your reel, clean it away with a clean cloth. excess grease might slow down freespool. the pinion guard bearing (key #910-447) measures 6x15x5mm. let's pack it with grease and reassemble the drag washer assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_19_0.jpeg)
now for the main shaft assembly (key #718). note that the makaira 8 has only 8 belleville washers (key #609), not the 10 bellevilles listed in the makaira 10 schematics.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_24_0.jpeg)
the best way to improve freespool is to clean out the spool bearings (key #910-447). see bearings (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0) for a full discussion of bearings. these spool bearings are high quality ezo bearings from japan and measure 6x15x5. no shortcuts here. we are going to pry out the shields and clean them with carb cleaner and gentle puffs of compressed air.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_30_0.jpeg)
the bearing has grease on one side but is dry on the other.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_34_0.jpeg)
both spool bearings will be cleaned with carb clean and compressed air, then dunked in TSI 301. more about this stuff later.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_39_0.jpeg)
now, this is what i'm talkin' about!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_43_0.jpeg)
i've reassembled the spool up to the thrust bearing. the bare spool with the open bearings spins for 25 seconds.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_46_0.jpeg)
install the main shaft pin (key #717) before we lose it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_54_0.jpeg)
install the drag assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_58_0.jpeg)
install the water proof cover (key #405) and screws (key #930-096).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_02_0.jpeg)
install the high speed pinion gear (key #702) and low speed pinion gear (key #702-1) as a unit. a quick check gives us the same 25 seconds of spin time.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_09_0.jpeg)
set the spool assembly aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_15_0.jpeg)
if you currently own a makaira 8, 10, or 15 two speed that is working well, you can most likely skip this part of the tutorial and reassemble your reel. we are going to inspect the right main side plate bearing (key #910-446). it measures 8x19x6 and it turns out that this bearing in this particular reel is fully packed with grease. if the bearing in your reel fails or you have to pull the drive shaft for some reason, read on. otherwise, you are basically done. skip to the end, button up your reel and go fish. now for those that want to plow through the rest of this, onward!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_20_0.jpeg)
remove the gear box cover (key #912).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_23_0.jpeg)
this anti-reverse system is unique to okuma. take careful note of the postions of the anti-reverse pawls (key #201), the bushings (key #211), and the springs (key #217).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_27_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_31_0.jpeg)
also note well the positions of the right (key #723-1) and left (key #723-2) silent springs.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_34_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_37_0.jpeg)
zip out the pawl screws (key #930-605) and set everything aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_41_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_45_0.jpeg)
WARNING!!! remove the c-retainer (key #1-901-0012) but make sure it does not take flight. the one you see in this photo was recovered after it popped out and took a 6 foot hop into the middle of my garage.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_48_0.jpeg)
WARNING!!! remove the right (key #723-1) and left (key #723-2) silent springs and the silent spring bushing (key #723) as a unit. do not pull the springs off the bushing because you may loosen the spring and it may not work properly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_51_0.jpeg)
remove the hold plate screws (key #930-605).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_54_0.jpeg)
remove the hold plate (key #207) and hold plate bushing (key #215) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_11_57_0.jpeg)
remove the low speed drive gear washer (no key #), it is not shown on the schematic.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_00_0.jpeg)
remove the low speed drive gear (key #700-1) and teflon washer (key #920-412) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_03_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_07_0.jpeg)
remove the high speed main gear (key #700). this is the exposed side. the other side is flat.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_11_0.jpeg)
remove the teflon washer (key #920-441) for the high speed main gear.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_14_0.jpeg)
ok, we could (and probably should) stop here, but you may as well see the handle assembly. remove the clutch shift drive pin (key #507-2).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_18_0.jpeg)
remove the first drive gear shaft washer (key #920-025).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_24_0.jpeg)
WARNING!!! remove the drive gear shaft c-retainer (key #1-901-006). make sure this one doesn't take flight, either!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_30_0.jpeg)
remove the second drive gear shaft washer (key #920-025).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_39_0.jpeg)
keep track of the parts.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_45_0.jpeg)
remove the handle/drive shaft assembly as a unit. note that there are no bearings in this assembly. avet, accurate and daiwa have bearings here. penn, shimano and okuma makairas do not. for a full discussion on servicing the two speed shifter, refer to the okuma andros post. we came here for the right main side plate bearing and have been sidetracked long enough.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_50_0.jpeg)
re-install the drive shaft assembly by reversing the above steps.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_12_54_0.jpeg)
the right main side plate bearing (key #910-446) measures 8x19x6mm.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_00_0.jpeg)
it is fully packed with grease, meaning that all of the work on the right side plate was unnecessary.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_04_0.jpeg)
well, i still like blue grease better, so it will be repacked (hey, we came this far!) and re-installed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_11_0.jpeg)
ok, enough gawking! back to work. re-install the high speed drive gear's teflon washer (key #920-441).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_15_0.jpeg)
re-install the high speed drive gear (key #700), counterbore side out.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_20_0.jpeg)
re-install the low speed drive gear (key #700-1) and teflon washer (key #920-412) as a unit, with the washer side down.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_24_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_28_0.jpeg)
re-install the stainless steel washer (no key #), not shown on this schematic.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_31_0.jpeg)
re-install the hold plate (key #207) and hold plate bushing (key #215) as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_35_0.jpeg)
re-install the hold plate screws (key #930-605).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_38_0.jpeg)
re-install the left (key #723-2) and right (key #723-1) silent springs and the silent spring bushing (key #723) as a unit. note that the left and right designations as assigned as if the springs were being viewed from the outside of the reel. the springs will not work if they are reversed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_43_0.jpeg)
re-install the c-retainer (key #1-910-012). remember that this is a no-fly zone.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_47_0.jpeg)
re-install the anti-reverse pawl springs (key #217), then the bushings (key #211), then the pawls (key #201) and the screws (key #930-605). verfy that the pawls are functioning properly (springing in) before proceeding. by "proper function," i mean that the pawls would simply "click" if the silent springs were not engaged. ok, they work fine? good! now re-install the ends of the silent springs and verify that THEY function properly. good, let's move on.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_50_0.jpeg)
re-install the gear box cover (key #912).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_54_0.jpeg)
now take a moment to survey your work. if you skipped the service portion for the right main side plate bearing, you would go from servicing the spool, then straight to this point. mostly what we've done is look around. time now to get this reel back together.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_13_58_0.jpeg)
re-install the left side plate assembly (key #300) and screws (key #930-1196).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_03_0.jpeg)
reinstall the spool assembly (key #400) and make sure the main shaft pin (key #717) is properly seated.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_07_0.jpeg)
shimmy the right side plate assembly (key #200) and re-install the screws (key #930-1196).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_11_0.jpeg)
push the drag lever (key #605) down to the free position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_16_0.jpeg)
with the lever in the free position, re-install the drag knob assembly (key #600) so that is nests into the drag lever assembly (key #605).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_20_0.jpeg)
give the drag knob assembly (key #600) a couple of turns to make sure it is seated properly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_24_0.jpeg)
done! it's funny, the spool must be happier inside the reel. it now delivers 70 seconds of freespool!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_27_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_31_0.jpeg)
now, some side bar comments. first, for those interested, the makaira 10's that i serviced last year went on one trip with me and three trips with other guys. the still spin for 60 seconds. looks like the TSI 301 is for real.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_14_56_0.jpeg)
second, i took the makaira 8 to my local shop with a big spool of 50 pound stren braid. evan praskin is a buddy of mine that works there and he was nice enough to spool up the reel for me.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_04_03_11_3_45_30_0.jpeg)
he's a great kid and really packs 'em tight.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_04_03_11_3_45_35_0.jpeg)
i would have liked to have had 4 football fields worth of line (400 yards), but i am very happy with three and a half!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_04_03_11_3_45_39_0.jpeg)
the reel easily bottomed out the 25 pound chatillion scale at the shop and had virtually no side load. i believe these numbers mean that the okuma makaira 8 II has the highest power to weight ratio in it's class. add an anti-reverse system with zero possibility of failure at any drag setting, a clicking preset knob (that you can still tighten with the reel in gear at 24 pounds of drag), a 2:1 granny gear on the bottom that allows you to still crank the handle with 18 pounds of drag, an option for lugs and easily interchangeable handle grips, and this reel gets my vote for best in it's class.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_04_03_11_3_45_42_0.jpeg)
in an e-mail to okuma last september, i wrote ....
Quote
.... you already have a makaira 10 II that holds 400 yards of 65 pound spectra and a 3 foot topshot of 40, 50 or 60 pound flourocarbon. it is my hope that a makaira 8 II would hold 400 yards of 50 pound spectra and a short 3 foot topshot of 30, 35 or 40 pound fluorocarbon. both reels deliver the same 24 pounds of drag at strike with no side load. clearly these reels deliver a higher drag range than would be needed for their current line capacity. or do they? 15 years ago, who knew about spectra? yet, with it's introduction, line technology improved five fold nearly overnight. and what of reel technology? still lagging behind until now. the makaira jumps only slightly ahead of the spectra that it holds. the next generation of fishing lines could easily leap ahead of reels and you would be right back where you started. or would you? 20 years from now, the makaira 8 II might still find favor among fishermen, while the makaira 10 II and 15 II fall by the wayside. the situation could be analogous to the penn 4/0 senator line, where the narrow spool baja special 113hn is still highly prized, while the standard spool 113hl and wide spool 113hlw sit and collect dust.....
it's still a little hard to believe. alan
3/4/2011
Alan, you are the man! Glad to see it with my own eyes.
It's an amazing reel. If you liked the Makaira 10 II, you will definitely love the Makaira 8 II. Man, these reels are smooth and powerful.
it was late last night when i had to quit. this cold is getting worse. next appt with the doc is on monday. hey, aaron, do you have a schematic for the andros? i need one quick! thanks! alan
Alan, from a hobby "that got out of control" to what you have going now you must be commended. You are almost single handedly changing the saltwater reel industry. Thankfully, Okuma has listened to you and it will be just a matter of time, hopefully, before others follow suit in regards to drag fibers, bearings, lubricants and now even "size"!
thanks, guys. i've got to get this reel strung up and run it through it's paces before i put this on bloody decks. didn't sleep that well last night. jeez, i hate being sick like this! >:(
Man, man, man, that looks sweet. I want one right now. Yeah, hurry up and puts some line on it and see what kind a drag that little thing has.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v225/Rooster5101/funny%20stuff/Funny%20Stuff%20Gifs/000204AE.gif)
Alan, are you going to try it out on Okuma's sponsored trip?
http://www.biggame90.net/sportfishing/564
doubt that i would get a hall pass for three trips!
When they'll gonna sell Makaira 8II in US?
i'm hoping late spring. i have a message in to mark at charkbait to send me the first two that he gets.
Hmm, I hate to question the big guy,
but,
in this thread you said
Quotea clicking preset knob (that you can still tighten with the reel in gear at 24 pounds of drag),
Is that something different with the MK 8II?
The owners manual for my MK 15II says "The drag lever should always be in the "FREE" position while adjusting the pre-set knob."
spes, that is most excellent!!!!!!! yeah, i know that concerns alot of guys. i thought of leaving it out and i was actually wondering if anyone would catch that. you're the first.
so guys, the deal is this. with most reels, when in gear, the preset knob is under so much load that you cannot physically turn it. in some of the avets, the metal in the preset knob was so soft that you could strip the threads, hence the warning. with the makaira 8 (and presumably the 10 and 15), the drag setting at 18-20, even 24, pounds, does not put that much pressure on the threads. it is an indication of how overbuilt this reel is. it might be the equivalent to 5 pounds of drag on an avet sx. if you tried this with the makaira lever at full and the drag set to 35 pounds, i imagine there might be enough pressure on the threads to cause damage. however, at a mere (!!!!!!) 24 pounds of drag, the preset knob turned easily and i never got the feeling that there was any danger of damaging the threads.
if true, that means that you could set the drag to 20 pounds at strike and then hook into something big, then turn the preset knob a couple of clicks to a point that you know you would have maybe 27 pounds, then push it to full and say your hail mary's!
awesome reel! yes, they are that good. truly in a class by themselves.
oh, and NEVER worry about questioning me!
great,
I will reward myself with a less than brilliant question.
Been away, still havn't cracked open the 15II. I havn't been in it yet, so I am strictly going from the tutorial pictures.
The right main side plate bearing looks like it has one of those rubber seals.
Is there enough room between the bearing and the high speed main gear that you could remove the seal and thumb grease into the bearing without taking the whole right side assembly apart?
naw, not enough room. you probably can leave it be. remember, they have 5 year warranties. alan
I threw this post here because I went by this tutorial.
I just broke down my nib MK 15II
reel # 30
It was spooled with JB when I recieved it. About 21 seconds freespool out of the box.
I followed the tutorial but left the right side alone.
First time opening a metal shielded bearing ???
It took a while to build up the testicular fortitude to push hard enough to get the point of a hook in there.
After finally getting the first side, the rest went much easier.
The bearings had grease on both sides. But I cleaned them out and lubed with Xtreme reel.
The drag washer looked evenly greased, maybe a touch of excess on the sides. I still lathered it up and wiped it down again.
Got it all back together, I don't know how many pounds of drag I put on it. I went as high as I could barely turn the reel with my hand at strike.
2:20 freespool!
I will probably put this reel on an Okuma Cedros Speed Jig CJ-C-601-XH
Cod season over here opens in about a month
Fish ON
nice!
Check your freespool after a couple weeks using the Xtreme Reel. It offer very fast times initially, but dies down quickly.. :|
You are quite right.
I havn't even used the reel. Lubed it about a week ago and I just timed it again.. dropped down to 1 minute >:(
How does the TSI 301 compair after a couple of weeks in the reel??
in my reels, the tsi has been good for a year!
Alan,
How well does it cast? You may not have had a chance to field test the 8II but you used the 10II on a trip (I believe) how did that one cast?
Juan
Miami, FL
never got a chance to fish with it. that opportunity will come up at the end of july. the 10 was ok, but not great. it was just a larger spool. the makaira 8 should be fine. the spool will be quite a bit lighter.
Alan, Looks like you my get you 8's in July. Okuma just announced they will be out.
I just bought a Makaira 10 to try out. Of course the first thing I did was break it down to do the pre-use service. However, I ran into a problem with getting the drag knob assembly (key 600) off. I backed out the three screws from the reel right side plate, and then unscrewed the drag knob. And unscrewed, and unscrewed, and unscrewed. Try as I might I could not get the spool assembly off the right side plate. What am I missing here?
push down and unscrew. you should feel the preset knob it the top of the threads. then pull it apart, you have to tug a little.
Thanks Alan. That did the trick.
I just rebuilt mine over the weekend. I have to mention that you said that yours only contained only eight belleville washers. Mine did have 10 washers and the Makaira 8 schematic also shows 10. Here is a picture of it. Three of the washers are still on the shaft:
(http://i1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa376/rmi63/fishing/IMAG0150.jpg)
Ron
yeah, i dunno.... they must have made some mid course changes.
Alan,
thanks for the great tutorial of the Mak 8 II. I used it to open up my Mak 10 II.
A "picky" comment regarding picture number 22 with the below caption (sorry but I don't know how to attach the picture).
"the drag washer assembly features a carbon fiber drag washer (key #611) sandwiched between two stainless steel key washers (key #612). the drag washer already has a coat of cal's grease. if you find excess in your reel, clean it away with a clean cloth. excess grease might slow down freespool. the pinion guard bearing (key #910-447) measures 6x15x5mm. let's pack it with grease and reassemble the drag washer assembly. "
The steel washers (key #612) is not symmetrical on both sides. The inner center of the washers are thicker on one side. (that part of the washers presses against the waved washer (key #209) in between. I cannot tell from the picture if you have turned the left washer on the picture upside down or if it is oil/gease leftovers. Anyway, just a heads up to avoid confusion.
The reason why I opened up my Mak 10 was because at really light drag settings the drag was a bit jerky. After opening up the drag assembly my amateurish guess is it is because of the waved washer. If you only apply light drag pressure then you can "feel" the waved washer between the steel washers. Cant see any other reason.
One thing I did notice was the quality of the drag washer. Small black particles kept coming off and it didn't have the same nice wickered structure as the ones from Smoothdrag. So most likely in a few years the parts that will need replacement will be the drag washer and maybe a bearing or two..
thanks
Richard
at a very light drag setting, it is very common to feel some unevenness to the drag. it is usually because the drag material itself is uneven. under a heavy load, the drag material mashes down and evens out. as far as the material itself, probably the highest quality material out there is from ballard. the materials coming out of asia work just as well and at a fraction of the cost, but the are not the same quality of material that you will find from smoothdrag.com and all of the us reel manufacturers.
Okuma stepped up their game on this reel!
Are there plastic parts in this reel? Im debating on purchasing the makaira 8 or the andros... I know the makaira is a better built reel but the andros is so light and tiny! Any suggestions on which one to choose?
depends on whether you need 12 pound of drag or 24......
I would like to get the andros but i am worried about the plastic pieces on and in the reel...
ive had my andros for 2yrs,hasnt missed a beat,landed some good samson fish.magic reel.
I fish both the MK10 and the Andros 5. Both are very good reels and both have different strengths.
The Andros was intended to be fished up to around 40# (50# being the max) and is a high speed 2 speed reel.
It is very light with a lot of line capacity (more than the MK8 and less than the MK10). Plastic parts are limited to the lever guide and the anouncer. It does not have harness lugs. The spool weight is very light and makes for high performance casting.
I fish this reel with 30-35# BlackWater leaders and 50# braid.
The MK10 (same as the MK8 but wider) is a much heavier reel with a very strong frame and harness lugs. You can fish 65# with no problem with this reel (you could fish 100# if you did not need the line capacity). It has a lower retrieve rate to match the higher drag capability. Spool weight is higher than the Andros but it still cast very nice.
If you are buying new a MK8 or MK10 I would consider the MK8II-SEa or the MK10II-SEa. They have the 'Tani ' service built in, large Tiburon handle and a slightly machined out frame (1/2 oz lighter).
My go to reel for 5-7 day trips is the Andros 5 set up with 35# short top (25') Black Water flouro leader. This has easily subdued
many YFT between 65# and 100#. The reason is I like to 'finesse' with long soaks at the Lupe and the Rocks. The Andros is ligh enough to do this all day. The Mk10 is heavier and more tiring to fish 15-20 min soaks. Both rigs present live bait very well while the Mk10 provides more power at the rail.
If it comes to value the Mk8/10 and the Andros 5 are within $60 of each other. I feel the MK series offer more value for the $$.
Jim N.
Great detail Jim - much appreciated.
Cheers, Justin
If they only came in a left-hand model.
So far, does anyone experienced wear issues with this part?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_50_0.jpeg)
On my Cavalla, i changed the plastic made clicker gear few times, fishing for sharks. Its not expensive, but it doesn't make any sense in my head why Okuma chose plastic gear click gear for their high-end reels, but yet for okuma solterra they opt for metal click gear. Also, the clicker on solterra SLR-10CS that i had, IT KEEPS the LOUD sound even after multiple strong runs in one season, versus my Cavalla 20, where the plastic clicker gear starts fading by the end of one season, where replacement is needed. For Cavalla 50w-ll - the clicker gear is joke.
i know this would like a dumb question....
but how actually this makaira's dual drag works?
i will receive this reel tomorrow, read this review some times, but i can't understand yet how these work..... ;D
Hi Madday,
No dual drag on the Makaira, just a standard single CF washer, ie:
(http://alantani.com/gallery/3/1_03_03_11_10_10_19_0.jpeg)
Hope I've understood your question correctly.
Good luck with your new reel, Justin
Quote from: redsetta on February 26, 2013, 09:22:26 PM
Hi Madday,
No dual drag on the Makaira, just a standard single CF washer, ie:
Hope I've understood your question correctly.
Good luck with your new reel, Justin
thanks... i was misunderstood..... its a dual force..... ??? ;D
Does the Mk10II SEa rebuild the same as the basic Mak 8II?
they are the same.
Would this reel be a good 50# rig for yoyo jigging and live bait fishing on A 7' stick?
maybe a makaira 10, unless you don't need the line capacity.
Thanks Alan.. I just another possibility which is the new Andros A 12S about $90 less than the Mak. No shipments yet but should be here by Fred Hall show.
Hello: My comunication hability is limited because of my poor english domine, sorry about that. My question is if there is a METALIC ratchet click gear for my Makaira 10 II as a substitute for Key # 401. It has failed twice under long and heavy runs, and once more broke under screwdriver pressure ( ¿ my fault ? ). I will appreciate any input. ¿ Does somebody had this issues ?. Thanks.
Peter...
I haven't seen one with a metal clicker. Sorry.
Thank you for posting this thread! I finally got my hands on a mak10 sea and this tutorial was just what I needed to get the job done.
I sat back in the living room today and did the lube and clean version of this service. After lubing the spool bearings (TS321) and some fresh blue lube (Yamaha waterproof) the reel easily free spools for a minute forty one seconds And meshed gears are butter smooth.
I found the tear down to be easy and just keep an eye on the gear shaft seating properly down onto spool.
All components are high quality for sure.
Thanks to all who make this site possible. Cheers to Alan!
Thank you Alan,
Thought you'd like to know, even all the years since you posted this article, it's still being used.
I finally had the balls to take apart a Mak 10ii SEA and get the spool bearings cleaned, blowned and TSI321 lubed.
Spins better than new.
Best
Hansel
they're great reels!