Hi there. Apologies to those on a dinosaur speed connection as this reel has a few steps involved in it, however I've made the pictures as small as I can hopefully without losing too much detail. I must admit to being an early model Penn 920 baitcaster tragic as I own three of these reels, two of them that are brand new in the box and never been used (bought off eBay) and one that gets used whenever I can in both fresh and salt water. It all started back in the mid 70's when my father bought one (which he still uses) and from then as an impressionable kid of around 7 years old I was a shot duck, so to speak. I also have a soft spot for the Penn 4/0H's but that is another story entirely..... :D
OK, down to it. I was going to replace a couple of parts in the level wind mechanism of this reel so at the same time as sending away for the parts from Scott's Bait and Tackle I asked Alan about a drag upgrade for these reels as they originally came factory supplied with a set of leather washers and I wanted something a little more substantial to chase barramundi etc. You can see from the pictures that I have the later model type reel with the pressed stainless reel seat (as opposed to the earlier type with two cross bars and a riveted reel seat. More info on that check out Mystic Reel Parts/mysticparts.com website: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Technical/910n920DesignChange.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Technical/910n920DesignChange.aspx) for more info on the subject, but bear in mind that the pressed stainless reel seat is a much stronger design when upgrading your drag system.
OK, first thing is first, you need to (and it is vitally important with these small reels) use the right size screwdriver and to only tighten the screws to "firm" as they are very easy to damage and shear a screw off in the reel, which can be all sorts of fun to fix as I have found out! I am using Cal's for most of the greasing of internals and just plain old Penn lube for the stuff that needs a light coat only or would be affected by a heavy grease such as the level wind.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/1.jpg)
Remove the handle lock retainer and handle screws from the reel. The handle will just lift off, leaving the star drag wheel to spin-off anticlockwise.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/2.jpg)
Remove the three screws with the larger (knurled) heads from the side plate, bearing in mind that they are very small and easy to lose. The lower one (pictured) is longer than the other two and goes all the way through to the reel seat.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/3.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/4.jpg)
Here the side plate is removed showing the access to the spool complete with the brake weights (#176-910) installed. Careful not to lose these too!
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/5.jpg)
Remove the spool and check for corrosion/general wear and tear.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/6.jpg)
This picture shows how the worm gear cover locates into the right side ring and also that the sliding part of the level wind just sits inside the groove in the slotted line guide without binding.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/7.jpg)
Around to the left hand side of the reel now and remove the side bearing preload cap and spring from the reel. This will expose the plastic spool control bumper. Careful not to lose this and please make note of its orientation! Mine was black side out.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/10.jpg)
I removed it simply by just gently nudging it out with the needle on my bottle of Oust.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/9.jpg)
Remove the outer circumference screws out of the left side plate (it also has a longer one at the bottom which goes through into the reel seat). Don't remove the small headed screw closest to where the spring cap is yet (refer the pics). Remove the side plate by gently feeding the clicker lever through the side plate. Not to worry if the clicker mechanism comes with the side plate as it only slides onto the protruding ends of the two rearmost posts (note orientation). You'll also notice that I have previously applied grease to most of the internal surfaces of this reel when I have previously had it apart and saw no reason to replace it during this tear down.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/11.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/13.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/14.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/15.jpg)
I was replacing the level wind worm, idler gear, the idler shaft and the bearing as I was having a couple of small issues with the level wind from time to time. Refer the pictures for the parts involved and the worm can be removed by (carefully!) removing the small circlip on the end of the shaft.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/18.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/12.jpg)
You can see the reason here why you must be careful not to over tighten the screws or forget to lube them before re-assembly!
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/19.jpg)
The previously replaced bearings were in great shape this time so didn't require removal just a quick drop of Metoil which penetrates by itself (no need this time to slip the side covers off the tiny bearings and in fact after doing it once I would suggest buying new bearings to pull apart and lube rather than the old ones).
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/16.jpg)
Remove the nut holding the slotted line guide onto the right side inner ring. This one was just starting to corrode again slightly from a drop of salt water under where the nut seats despite being fastidious when cleaning my reels after use (this one had not been apart for probably 6-7 fishing trips in the salt but had been cleaned in warm soapy water after every trip).
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/20.jpg)
You can now disassemble the line guide being careful not to force any of the parts. You can see here that I should have used a slightly larger screwdriver!
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/21.jpg)
The disassembled line guide.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/22.jpg)
This reel doesn't need any shims under the pawl at this stage (not a Penn part anyway but a mod to take into account minor wear on the pawl), however if it did they would need to be inserted into the screw cap of the guide. There is a black art to getting this right but it is only through trial and error to ensure enough engagement of the pawl teeth in the worm groove yet not too much that the pawl binds on the worm (read: damage itself) which would in turn create extra drag when casting etc.... I have my own small selection of small stainless shims that I use when I need to.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/23.jpg)
Installation of the left side plate is a reversal of the removal procedure noting the position and alignment of the longer screw, dowel/side plate and reel seat....
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/24.jpg)
A small drop of very lightweight oil to lube the idler assembly (I use Metoil here as I have found it is a very low weight oil perfect for small reels that would be affected by a heavyweight oil, however you use whatever you prefer as each person wants different things from their reels).
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/25.jpg)
Now is a good time to check that the re-assembled level wind is working correctly and smoothly, before you put the reel all the way back together! Just give it a slight turn with your finger should be enough to check that things are working correctly.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/26.jpg)
This lube was looking a little sad so I cleaned it off and just a little dab of Cal's.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/27.jpg)
Now, this part takes patience! The easiest way to ensure that the line coming off the spool is aligned with the level wind mechanism is to strip line from the spool until it aligns with the level wind and is going in the same direction.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/28.jpg)
This is what you DON'T want to see, however once you've got the line and the level wind lined-up drop the spool home, pop the buffer, spring and screw the side cap back on the reel (loosely – we'll come back to this) and place it aside.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/29.jpg)
Now to the handle side of the reel. Remove the star wheel, wave washer and bridge screws from the sleeve and side plate and set aside.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/32.jpg)
The bridge assembly will come out as a unit reel exposing the drag washers and gears. I had no reason to strip the reel any further down than this to do what I needed to (replace the drag washers), but a general clean-up in solvent (of your choice, I tend to use carby cleaner being careful not to use so much as to melt any plastic parts) and re-grease is always in order.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/33.jpg)
This shows the HT-100 washer that sits under the main gear. You'll note I have plans to replace the sleeve next time I strip the reel down as you can see the salt water is starting to get to it. A quick and gentle clean up with steel wool was the go here this time....
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/35.jpg)
The new HT-100 drag washers that replaced the leather originals. The residue on the stainless washer is actually Cal's as I had fitted the washers then realised I hadn't taken a photo!
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/36.jpg)
Again, installation is a reversal of the removal procedure with note to the following points: Make sure that these two pins align in their respective slots...
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/37.jpg)
Ensure that BEFORE you put the bridge screws back in that the plastic (neoprene?) hole guides align in the side plate correctly prior to inserting the screws and that the chromed sleeve is inserted prior to fitting the wave washer and star wheel.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/38.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/40.jpg)
A small drop of Metoil on the bearing and the drive unit is ready to be refitted to the rest of the reel taking note of the correct alignment of the dowel to the side plate and that you have nipped the retaining nuts up snugly and in the right position. Also ensure that the spool brakes (if you need them) are in-situ.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/41.jpg)
Lube and insert the side plate screws.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/42.jpg)
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/43.jpg)
Refit the handle.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/44.jpg)
Nip it up just firm and insert and tighten the grub screw.
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/45.jpg)
And you're ALMOST finished! The only thing left to do now is adjust (through trial and error) the lateral adjustment of the spool (centering/biasing the spool one way or the other to ensure that the line lays evenly on the spool instead of bunching-up one end (think ice-cream cone) due to the action of the level wind design – each reel is different) and also the pre-load on the spool to ensure it doesn't over-run. The only way to do all this is to fit the reel up to your favourite flickin' stick and head outside into the yard to go and chuck a sinker around, making adjustments where needed. I'd suggest centering the spool first and then backing off each side adjustment 1/16th of a turn until you get the right free spool, then heading outside and flicking that sinker around to get the sideways bias just right so that the line lays on the spool nice and evenly.
The end result was a noticeably stronger and smoother drag system and my level wind now doesn't get stuck down one end from time to time.
Enjoy, Dave.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
thank you dave beautiful reel and even more beautiful tutorial. i bet there's a penn wrench heading your way
Nicely done!
Wow, reely cool post and reel! Thanks!
8)Hi,Taily,Super post,Have a early 930 that had the clicker destroyed :'( by a huge northern weakfish(nothing weak bout them puppies) years ago, but after this posting,think i'm going to repair it and put it back in service :)Thanks for the insperation 8)
first thought, the photography is really nice! great post. thank you. alan
thats a very informative tutorial.we continue to increase our knowledge. u bewdy!
Man, those are nice pics that tells a thousand words.
Fantastic pictures and step by step instructions. I purchased a 930 on ebay for next to nothing and was able to rehab it. Your effort is much appreciated. Bill
Great tutorial and pics, thanks! I've got one of these reels,,, it's gona be my next project.
Just a note to those wondering about the part numbers for the HT100 drag washers used in the tutorial. I originally asked Alan about them and he sent me some straight up but unfortunately between us we no longer have the emails we sent between us with the part numbers.... However don't dispair as Alan advises me this:
Quote..... Think I used a #6-7000 under the main gear and the #6-155's inside. It's actually better to use the #6-965 and grind them down to fit.
The 6-965 washers (3 of them from the 965 International baitcaster) are the ones that need to have their diameter slightly reduced to fit.
Regards,
Dave
Nice work Dave - a great tutorial and crystal clear photos.
I did an early one of these just before Christmas and reckon they're a nice little reel.
Cheers, Justin
Thanks for the detailed write-up! I was wondering about the drag washers you used, I'm going to have to track some of those down.
I had a problem with mine where it would not free spool unless the side plate thumb screws were backed off ever so slightly. Took forever to figure that out. I used a small amount of locktite to keep the screws from moving any more.
Have you all found a better handle for these reels? I was hoping the 9m handle would fit but no luck.
wow, i just found 10 envelopes full of levelmatic parts!!!!!!!!
I have two 940's and one 930 that I'm getting ready to work the magic on. I made the mistake of selling one of these a few years ago.... they are awesome for inshore use. I have cranked up many nice fish in and around Bodega Bay with this type of setup. best used in the shallows, these reels are all business and very tough. Can't wait to go play with these this season! Thanks for the info here!
Steve
Welcome aboard Steve! Post a little bit about yourself in the "Welcome" board. Good luck with your mods.
Hi, can anyone help if removal of the bearing is required? What kind of tools is needed to remove the bearing housing as shown below?
Pic is from the topic starter.
I have 2 piece of 930 which have their bearing busted, no ReelX in those days......
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/16.jpg)
Very informative tutorial! Now that we're into levelmatics, I need help with a broken clicker on my 930. Mine just loosely moves up and down with NO effect, no clicker noise. I would like to know which parts I need. Are they the click tongue and spring?
From looking at an exploded view of the 930, I see that I've the support block and the clicker lever. My lever just comes right out of the block, nothing else attached or holding it in. Thanks.
Quote from: Daz on April 19, 2012, 05:28:03 PM
Hi, can anyone help if removal of the bearing is required? What kind of tools is needed to remove the bearing housing as shown below?
Pic is from the topic starter.
I have 2 piece of 930 which have their bearing busted, no ReelX in those days......
(http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u109/OpsNormal/16.jpg)
Sorry Daz, I hadn't realised you'd asked that question. They are removed the same way as the larger Senators etc. If it helps a small screwdriver positioned just in under the retaining spacer and twist it slightly. The retainer will lift slightly, just work your way around until it is free. They are small and fiddly but it will come out if you work at it. The bearing can then be removed using a tool such as a rivet mandrel or very small screwdriver that has been flattened at one end and the last 3mm (1/8 in) bent at 90 degrees. Insert the end of the tool through the hole in the bearing and slide it sideways in firm between the bearing and the carrier, then wriggle it slightly and the bearing will dislodge.
New bearings should be still available for them.
Apologies, I hadn't realised there was an un-answered post here.
Regards,
Dave
Quote from: kookel on September 24, 2012, 02:16:02 AM
Very informative tutorial! Now that we're into levelmatics, I need help with a broken clicker on my 930. Mine just loosely moves up and down with NO effect, no clicker noise. I would like to know which parts I need. Are they the click tongue and spring?
From looking at an exploded view of the 930, I see that I've the support block and the clicker lever. My lever just comes right out of the block, nothing else attached or holding it in. Thanks.
Its been a while since I last had mine apart but seem to remember they just fit-up nice and snug. If yours is loose then it will either be the clicker or the pivot has worn. You may be able to peen it on gently so that it doesn't come off so easily. Failing that you might need to purchase the new parts for it from Scott's etc.
Regards,
Dave
I think I'm missing the click tongue and spring. I'm just seeing the lever and support block. Are there any pics here where I can see how they're assembled?
Hello,
I have a Penn 940 Levelmatic in my pile of reels and this one still gets used. Are there any handle upgrades or any larger single knob handles that will fit the 940?
Thank you..
Quote from: handi2 on December 05, 2012, 11:36:26 PM
Hello,
I have a Penn 940 Levelmatic in my pile of reels and this one still gets used. Are there any handle upgrades or any larger single knob handles that will fit the 940?
Thank you..
here is the master list!
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Handles.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Handles.aspx)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Very nice tutorial. I have a Penn Levelmatic 910, an early model. The eccentric jack has a dog looking piece that somehow engages with the dog underneath the gear sleeve. For some reason once the reel is assembled the dog does not work making it a knuckle buster with no anti-reverse. Do you have any close ups on the configuration of the dog and that dog looking piece on the eccentric jack and how it goes together? Maybe somebody mixed and matched the parts on this one. This reel was a good old Ebay special. Some of the reels you get from Ebay leave a lot to be desired. It's amazing what some people will try to pawn off on you.
I have hundreds of parts for these reels. Bearings too.
I will look tomorrow at what you are talking about. Does you anti reverse dog still have the one "ear" sticking up on it?
It looks like something might be missing. It is difficult to see the schematic on Scott's Bait and Tackle website. On one side there is the dog housing or a plastic piece with a couple of holes in it that has a small screw that goes thru it and the other side there is the dog and dog spring. The dog is unusual looking and has a large dog spring. Again the schematic from Scott's does not really show everything or I could fix it. The 910 I have is one of the older earlier models. I wonder if there is a better schematic available for this reel? I don't have another Penn Levelmatic to refer to either. It sounds like you are very familiar with these reels. This is the first one I ever owned. Please let me know what you think is going on. I appreciate your help. Thanks Paul
Quote from: fishhead69 on December 08, 2014, 03:47:59 AM
It looks like something might be missing. It is difficult to see the schematic on Scott's Bait and Tackle website. On one side there is the dog housing or a plastic piece with a couple of holes in it that has a small screw that goes thru it and the other side there is the dog and dog spring. The dog is unusual looking and has a large dog spring. Again the schematic from Scott's does not really show everything or I could fix it. The 910 I have is one of the older earlier models. I wonder if there is a better schematic available for this reel? I don't have another Penn Levelmatic to refer to either. It sounds like you are very familiar with these reels. This is the first one I ever owned. Please let me know what you think is going on. I appreciate your help. Thanks Paul
Paul I will look tomorrow. I have been super busy with reel work and totally forgot. I did get your email.
Thanks.
Okay thanks. Whenever you get a chance is good.
I think the Penn 910 Levelmatic reel is just like the Penn 109 or Penn 9 that does not have an anti-reverse function. When you put the reel in free spool and turn the handle backwards or counterclockwise you can here the clicking noise of the dog hitting the gear on the bottom of the gear sleeve and the handle stops at every click. When you put the reel in gear and turn the handle clockwise there is no clicking noise and you have to hold on to the handle otherwise the handle will spin backwards or counterclockwise when you hook a fish if that makes any sense.
Quote from: fishhead69 on January 21, 2015, 10:42:47 PM
I think the Penn 910 Levelmatic reel is just like the Penn 109 or Penn 9 that does not have an anti-reverse function. When you put the reel in free spool and turn the handle backwards or counterclockwise you can here the clicking noise of the dog hitting the gear on the bottom of the gear sleeve and the handle stops at every click. When you put the reel in gear and turn the handle clockwise there is no clicking noise and you have to hold on to the handle otherwise the handle will spin backwards or counterclockwise when you hook a fish if that makes any sense.
Hi there fishhead69,
These reels are all fitted with an anti-reverse mechanism - albeit small, it is more than adequate for the reel and the amount of drag it produces. It sits under the main gear in much the same way most other star drag Penn reels do. Another look at the pics I put in the tutorial where the mechanism is just visible under the main gear. What I would suggest is that either the spring/pawl has dropped off/incorrectly installed or is missing. I didn't show the drive side completely disassembled in the tutorial as I was only repairing the items I needed to, a drag upgrade and grease the rest.
Hope that helps,
Dave.
Thanks Dave. Appreciate the info on the Penn 910 Levelmatic.
WOW, great tutorial. Makes me want to buy one.
Hey Guys, I'm new to the site. I have an old beat up 910 that when I would turn the handle it would loosen the star drag to the point you couldn't reel up a fish. Last year I bought new drag washers for it and replaced them and that did not help the problewm. I have since taken it apart again to see if i could ID the problem but to no avail. I now have it in pieces and I am having trouble getting it back together properly. I am wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem? I know it will take me a lot of time to get it back together and I doubt that even if I do it will work properly. I just hate to let it go, but was considering buying another used one and could use mine as backup parts. Thoughts appreciated!
when it loosens on it's own like that, it usually means that the metal drag washers are out of order. the 900 series levelmatics are not easy to put back together. you almost need three hands!
Quote from: alantani on February 13, 2015, 07:38:43 PM
when it loosens on it's own like that, it usually means that the metal drag washers are out of order. the 900 series levelmatics are not easy to put back together. you almost need three hands!
Thanks Alan! I will check the drag washer order against the spec diagram to see if perhaps that is the problem. I hope it is but I doubt that when I changed them originally I didn't consult the spec sheet. THANKS!
The Penn 910 Levelmatic was missing several parts including the dog,dog spring,dog housing and dog pin. I got the parts from Scott's and the reel works great. Sweet little reel for sure. It's like the forerunner of the Penn International 955. The service at Scott's Bait and Tackle was very good as always. Now I need to take it and go fishing.
Quote from: alantani on February 13, 2015, 07:38:43 PM
the 900 series levelmatics are not easy to put back together. you almost need three hands!
I don't use mine in salt anymore for that reason, my 940 gave me fits putting it back together , besides that I love that reel 8)
Marc..
I have gone over this column several times and cannot find out what drag washer is used. Out of all the Penn Levelmatic users here, no one ever made a note of an Ht-100 replacement?
I even asked Dawn at Smoothdrags, and she put it back on me, lol. Her question is have I tried a 140 drag?
Well, no...I have zero drags on hand except some 6-113's from working on 970's with Alan 10+ years ago.
I don't really want leather drags and I don't want to make them myself. If there aren't any then ok, I will move on. But I own (8) of these reels and making drag sets for them is 'not my yob'.
Anybody have a note stashed somewhere? I have caught up to 12 lb trout on these little beasts and never felt outgunned.
A lot of good info. I have one of the 1st year 930's. I disassembled it ???to clean & I can not get the jack plate & pinion gear to go back in place. Can you assist me?
Thanks,
Larry
Ok. After finally having an issue pop up with a Levelmatic, I tore a couple apart. You that have these little gems will be pleased to know there is an EASY drag replacement.
Dawn of Smoothdrags was correct and the 6-140 HT-100 washer x (3) is a 'DIRECT DROP IN', if you don't mind that the I.D. is a bit loose. Dawn said it would not be a problem. (Those drags went in reel #1). The greased reel drag system works smooth enough.
If You buy her #10's and grind away the I.D. a bit you end up with a perfect fit.
Then it occurred to me that our own Bryan Young sells the 5+1 drag stack to upgrade our Squidders and Surfmasters. I pulled three of the CarbonTex washers from his kit that I had purchased prior, greased and installed them and I had a DROP IN, NO HAND GRINDING, smoother textured drag system. I believe this is the smoothest start up drag you can have on this reel.
There you have it.
Sorry no one answered lasportsman1 as I think he probably figured it out on his own. (I fiddled with the same problem a bit). He became a 1 post and done for lack of response apparently.
I read this post and did not respond because I never took one of these apart. I trusted that someone that had an answer would have answered. I hope he or she does not become a one time poster. Hey LA Sportsman come back. Someone will help. Dominick
I have a couple of these reels and have used on in the bay caching Bull Redfish. They were so plentiful I kept downsizing my tackle to have more fun,
I do have bags full of NOS parts for these reels if ever needed. Too many to even list.
Keith
Hey Keith,
Can I put together a list of wants and have you price it out for me?
Thanks, Ran.
Thanks for your answers there guys, my spare time is not as free as it once was (at present) so I rarely am able to get back here and check.
Thanks for that info re: the drag washers rancanfish, between Alan and I we had lost that information along the way, it doesn't help I've moved house twice since posting up the original tutorial either. I'm deeply sorry I lost that info as while my own set of Levelmatics all now have CF drag washers, I couldn't offer that info to help others as I had just plain lost it. Very grateful for you posting that up rancan.
Larry, the pinion from memory just sits in place, loosely held in position by the yoke much like the smaller senators (squidder/500/112H etc) - refer to the pics of the complete assembly as it just sits there. Hopefully that is the info you were looking for, let us know!
Regards all,
Dave
Dave, we owe you upgraded thanks for the original tutorial. :D
Alan wasted his time teaching me how to do reels since I won't touch them unless there's a tutorial to look at, lol.
I pull my Levelmatics apart just enough to get the new drags in. I'm lucky my reels are still in great condition.
I apologize for not seeing this post until now. When I do visit the forum it's just for a quick visit.
If you do need parts for the Levelmatic's just shoot me a PM.
It's just a busy time of year.
Keith
This great! I have an original Penn 930 & the pinion gear came out of the bridge assy. How do iI install it?
Thanks,
Larry
Lift up the yoke and tuck the pinion back into the curve, with the longer end of teeth up.
I have a Penn 920 that doesn`t let out line easily when using lightweight jigs.I have to feed out the line. I adjusted the spool release nuts on both sides o the reel. I took the reel apart and lubed everything up. Still the problem persists. I`ve done everything possible except change the bearings,but they look good. What next?
Quote from: redfish12 on February 06, 2012, 04:25:48 AM
I had a problem with mine where it would not free spool unless the side plate thumb screws were backed off ever so slightly. Took forever to figure that out. I used a small amount of locktite to keep the screws from moving any more.
Try those screws that Redfish said shouldn't be overtightened.
The reels don't have a tremendous amount of freespool to start with, but over tightening of screws can put pressure on the bridge that binds the spool, on any conventional reel.
Quote from: Dominick on July 29, 2015, 11:07:55 PM
I read this post and did not respond because I never took one of these apart. I trusted that someone that had an answer would have answered. I hope he or she does not become a one time poster. Hey LA Sportsman come back. Someone will help. Dominick
Thanks, no one has replied.
Just got my hands on a 930 and what a great reel. Took it apart to oil and grease everything and check out the drag plates. They were the original and were very smooth as it was but I put a coat of Cal's on them and they became smoother yet. I would replace them except my intention is to only use the reel on Lake Erie for Channels and it is fine just as it is. I did replace the handle with a Quantum Iron power handle and all I had to do was file the flat sides a little bit. Nice and tight. This reel was mint and had seen no use at all hardly. Very thankful to everyone who donated their time, Knowledge and energy to this thread.
That looks sweet. Love the Levelmatics for trout and striper trolling on a couple local lakes.
Biggest I've caught is a 12lb trout so no contest on the 920 I was using. I troll with the clicker on, it seems to hold the line just tight enough to not spool out until I get a hit.
Enjoy!
Thanks, I got it just for drifting for big Channels. They grow pretty big in Erie. 20-25 lbs is not unusual. I just wanted an older Penn to fish with and this may turn out to be perfect.
Awesome thread! I've got a 940 that had the pinion gear rusted to the spool shaft. I took it apart over a decade ago and wasn't able to get it back together again. I threw all the parts into a bag thinking I would either get to it myself someday or take it to someone, but never did....I'm gonna have to dig it out and try putting it back together again when I have some time! God, I loved that little reel!
Long live the Penn Levelmatics !
Tight Lines !
I have a 940 and a 930, I like using them for light salt fishing, porgies, seabass, etc. My only complaint is there's a lot of slop in the reel handle on both, they wobble. Is this normal. not worth the trouble of taking apart?
Quote from: Recoil Rob on November 04, 2018, 05:30:13 PMI have a 940 and a 930, I like using them for light salt fishing, porgies, seabass, etc. My only complaint is there's a lot of slop in the reel handle on both, they wobble. Is this normal. not worth the trouble of taking apart?
No, they should not wobble. However, because these reels do not have infinite anti-reverse, they do have a bit of back-play, but
that's normal. Is that what you're referring to?
Sorry, just saw this reply to my question.
It's not the backplay looseness (tangential) but the entire gearsleeve is wobbling, everything moves from side to side, handle, star, nut. Reel was never used much, seems wrong.
Quote from: Recoil Rob on May 12, 2019, 03:52:50 PM
Sorry, just saw this reply to my question.
It's not the backplay looseness (tangential) but the entire gearsleeve is wobbling, everything moves from side to side, handle, star, nut. Reel was never used much, seems wrong.
Without stripping it down it would be difficult to diagnose quickly here. With a few tools you should be able to refer to the tutorial I put together at the beginning of the thread to properly investigate why your reel has that movement. Let us know what you find!
Dave.
Quote from: Recoil Rob on May 12, 2019, 03:52:50 PM
It's not the back play looseness (tangential) but the entire gear sleeve is wobbling, everything moves from side to side, handle, star, nut. Reel was never used much, seems wrong.
This sounds like normal old run-of-the-mill gear sleeve play. A thin shim washer under the gear sleeve will cure this. Use only enough to take up the extra play...
do not get it tight. You'll know why when you turn the handle. 8)
Is there a SS gear speave for this set of reels? A buddy had one that is starting to round off at the top. Probably because he put braid on it when I told him not too☹️
No SS gear sleeve available....but I wonder if another could be modified? Bill
Parts for these reels are pretty exclusive, even the handle post fit and nut is unique to this series. Pretty sure there's not enough interest to generate custom parts like a SS sleeve.
You can still get whole reels and some parts on the "bay" though.
No big deal I can just order a new old stock one. Buddy doesn't seem too interested in using it since it's drag capabilities are rather limited and it's not a great caster. We fish redfish around heavy structures and it's not quite up to task. If I were a drifting fluke fisher or open boat light tackle troller I would love this reel. As is I am not so sure what to do with it??
So it seems mystic has found a great replacement with perfect drop in OD and ID: https://www.mysticparts.com/AbuGarciaParts/Parts/1116906.aspx
My question is, are we supposed to use a 6-7000 for the hard fiber washer replacement? Are there any Delrin washers for replacements?
I'm about to order the abu drags and want to make a complete order rather than 2 separate ones.
Thank you in advance!
Quote from: Brandon G on May 10, 2020, 12:07:44 AM
My question is, are we supposed to use a 6-7000 for the hard fiber washer replacement? Are there any Delrin washers for replacements?
Brandon,
I'm not sure where you got the info to use a #6-7000 washer under the gear sleeve. I just looked at it on Mystic...it surely won't fit. You can get a new #4-910 or if the one in the reel looks fine just re-use it. 8)
Quote from: mo65 on May 10, 2020, 01:09:58 AM
Quote from: Brandon G on May 10, 2020, 12:07:44 AM
My question is, are we supposed to use a 6-7000 for the hard fiber washer replacement? Are there any Delrin washers for replacements?
Brandon,
I'm not sure where you got the info to use a #6-7000 washer under the gear sleeve. I just looked at it on Mystic...it surely won't fit. You can get a new #4-910 or if the one in the reel looks fine just re-use it. 8)
On page 4, the below quote had me all sorts of confused. haha
Maybe I misread or accidentally skipped a post...
I'll take your advice and just get a regular hard fiber washer (if needed)
Quote from: Taily on December 30, 2011, 10:44:31 AM
Just a note to those wondering about the part numbers for the HT100 drag washers used in the tutorial. I originally asked Alan about them and he sent me some straight up but unfortunately between us we no longer have the emails we sent between us with the part numbers.... However don't dispair as Alan advises me this:
Quote..... Think I used a #6-7000 under the main gear and the #6-155's inside. It's actually better to use the #6-965 and grind them down to fit.
The 6-965 washers (3 of them from the 965 International baitcaster) are the ones that need to have their diameter slightly reduced to fit.
Regards,
Dave
Here is a downloadable PDF of the article . . . Plus, a couple of additional items !
Tight Lines !
One more item . . .
Tight Lines !
Thank you!
I figured it out a few weeks ago. I got the ABU washer and it fit perfectly. The reel is great! I took her to the beach for Father's day, but ended up flying kites with my kids the entire time... haha oh well, next time!
do you have pictures for the assembly steps for these reels?
Thanks,
Larry
Quote from: lasportsman1 on July 23, 2020, 04:51:38 PM
do you have pictures for the assembly steps for these reels?
Thanks,
Larry
I found a YouTube video . . .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlDIAkkkpZE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlDIAkkkpZE)
Dave F.
Bryan went through one for me a bit ago and Alan spooled it. Its caught 2 silvers and it will catch many many more.
The Man
I have some NOS gear sleeves for those reels.
Keith