Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Avet Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: josa1 on July 27, 2016, 09:49:30 AM



Title: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on July 27, 2016, 09:49:30 AM
For several years I have used a Shimano Tiagra 50 Wide as a kite reel on my long range trips.  It had about 650 yards of 200 pound spectra with a 200 pound top shot of monofilament and surprisingly, I found this amount of line to be somewhat short of what I would like.

When fish are staging well off the stern of the boat, this amount of line would not let me get “in the zone” and have much line left.  So, when my friend’s AVET PRO EX 80 became available I decided to upgrade to that.  Through horse trading I was able to make the upgrade for about $150.00, i.e. sell the 50W and buy the 80.

Here is the new (to me) reel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_24_188392306.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_24_18840794.jpeg)
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Note that this reel has about 925 yards of 200 pound hollow spectra.  For kite fishing I will add about a boat length of 200 pound mono on it as a top shot.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_24_188411264.jpeg)

Well, you know where this leads....let’s get this thing apart and see what I bought.  Lets start with the rod mounting hardware.  As this reel is made in the good ol’ USA, all of the component screws are SAE, a 1/4” box end wrench fits the rod clamp screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_25_18842234.jpeg)
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Things get off to a shaky start.  There is considerable corrosion around the first screw that I removed from the rod mount.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_25_188432277.jpeg)
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There is corrosion around all the screws, but nothing that can’t be cleaned up.  I think this is one of the most susceptible areas on a fishing reel to create corrosion.  You have all that is required...i.e. dissimilar metals (stainless steel and aluminum) and a reactant (salt water). It’s my advice that you service this area on your reels often.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_26_188442147.jpeg)
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You can see that the screws are corroded.  Wonder how long it would have been before they were totally seized in the reel frame?  By the way, I use taps and dies from the set I have to clean the screw holes in the frame and chase the threads on the screws.  This saves a lot of time and does a great job when combined with cleaning in a degreasing solution.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_26_188452021.jpeg)
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Time to take the line off the reel and see what the spool looks like.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_27_18847500.jpeg)
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There is a little corrosion, but nothing ugly or unmanageable.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_28_188481890.jpeg)
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As I begin to remove the left side plate, I can feel that the screws are a little corroded here also.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_28_18849250.jpeg)
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Things look very good here!  I see dried grease mostly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_29_188501911.jpeg)
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My parts list shows that there is a screw holding the outer drag washer in place. As you can see there’s none here!  The outer drag washer plate just slips off.  Also, note that there are cutaways for the “E” clips on the metal drag washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_29_188511607.jpeg)
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Left side plate looks good.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_29_188521532.jpeg)
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Remove the spool from the reel body.  Note the clamshell washers are mounted outside the pinion gears.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_30_188531956.jpeg)
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Things look good on the right side plate.  Simple and strong!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_30_188542408.jpeg)
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Remove the harness lug from the left side of the reel frame, again only dried grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_31_188551520.jpeg)
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I start to remove the right side plate and find a little more corrosion.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_32_18857277.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_32_188581215.jpeg)
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Remove the right side plate.  The frame looks good.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_33_188591261.jpeg)
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I put a screw back in the right side plate to avoid confusion, i.e. is this the right or left side of the frame?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_33_188602499.jpeg)
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Note that the free spool limit pin is bullet shaped on top...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_33_188611966.jpeg)
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And the  full limit stop pin is flat topped.  I made the mistake of reversing these when I did my first 50.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_33_188621867.jpeg)
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Both of these pin assemblies just push right out of the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_34_188631866.jpeg)
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To remove the drag preset assembly cover plate, remove the three screws that hold it in position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_35_188651193.jpeg)
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Remove the assembly followed by the drag lever.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_16_07_17_3_28_44_19190351.jpeg)
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and then the cam housing teflon (?) washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_56_188671988.jpeg)
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Remove the two nylon spacers and store in a safe place.  These are exactly the kind of parts I lose.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_11_188971911.jpeg)
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We need to dismantle and clean this cover plate assembly.  There’s salt and dried grease pretty much everywhere.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_22_58_189551507.jpeg)
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Start by removing the C ring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_22_59_189561646.jpeg)
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Separate the pieces, note the grime gets worse as we get deeper.  Take a second to familiarize yourself with the construction of this assembly.  Note the small preset knob ball spring. Can you see the ball directly under the spring?  The spring gets seated in the hole in the preset knob, the ball sets on top of it and mates up with the holes in the glide plate.  This makes the clicking noise you hear and feel as you rotate the preset knob to adjust the drag setting.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_22_59_18957798.jpeg)
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Here are all the components, now just need to clean them up and apply a fresh coat of lube.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_22_59_189582448.jpeg)
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These parts have now been cleaned and fresh lube has been applied.  The “O” ring has been inserted into its groove in the preset knob.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_23_00_1895921.jpeg)
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Install the spring in the recess in the preset knob and set the ball on top of it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_23_00_189602385.jpeg)
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Lower the cover plate onto the preset knob shaft, being very careful not to dislodge the ball.  Then install the “C” clip to hold it in place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_23_00_189611408.jpeg)
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Here is the completed cover plate assembly.  Rotate the knob to be sure the ball is in place and you feel and hear the click.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_23_01_189621279.jpeg)
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Next, dismantle and clean the lever assembly parts.  You have to unscrew this lever knob nut from the assembly.  Note there is no convenient point provided to do this.  I wrapped this part in a soft rag, to prevent scarring as much as possible, and used channel locks to unscrew it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_12_48_46_18965479.jpeg)
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Here the parts have been separated, cleaned and are now ready to be reassembled.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_12_48_46_18966278.jpeg)

Here is an example of the drag lever stop pins.  They are easy to dismantle, clean and apply fresh lube. Just remove the small “C” clip to dismantle and clean.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_12_48_47_189671434.jpeg)
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Next, to remove the handle and gear assembly, start by removing the screws in the crank arm cover.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_34_188641827.jpeg)
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It’s always helpful to have a picture of how things should go together.  Look closely at the cut in the push knob shaft.  Just under the dome you can see the cut.  This is the capture point for low speed operation.  As the pin is pushed inward to select low speed operation the cut in the shaft lines up with the mating cut in the low speed release arm.  Then, the little spring you see in the background pulls the release arm to mate up the two cuts and “capture” the pin position and maintain low speed operation.  To return to high speed operation the release arm is pushed to release the contact between the shaft and the release arm and springs within the crank arm drive the mechanism back into high speed operation.  More on this later.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_56_188682473.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_57_188691270.jpeg)
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Remove the release arm, release arm spring and handle screw locking plate as an assembly and set aside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_57_18870910.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_58_188711388.jpeg)
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A 7/16” box end wrench fits the crank arm nut nicely.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_58_18872686.jpeg)
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And, as Alan says in his post...”Don’t forget the washer”!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_11_58_188731253.jpeg)
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Remove the handle and the drive shaft washer.  Note that there is a raised area on the underside of the washer.  This faces downward and contacts the outer drive shaft bearing.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_00_18875706.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_01_188762307.jpeg)
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The gear assembly, containing drive shaft bearings, spacing tube, gears and shifting mechanism will then drop out of the side plate.  Here, I have reinstalled the drive shaft tube and the outer bearing on to the drive shaft so you can see what it looks like when fully assembled.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_01_18877929.jpeg)
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To dismantle this assembly remove....

The outer bearing..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_02_188782130.jpeg)
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Then the drive shaft tube.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_03_188801459.jpeg)
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The inner drive shaft bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_03_18879279.jpeg)
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Then remove the stop nut and stop nut pin.  The stop nut has left hand threads, i.e. turn clockwise to remove.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_04_18881546.jpeg)
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Remove the left washer.  Note there are cuts in the drive shaft to accept the “ears” on the washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_05_188831444.jpeg)
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Then remove the low speed gear, note the orientation.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_04_188821314.jpeg)
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Then the center washer, this washer is not orientation sensitive.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_05_18884135.jpeg)
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Next, remove the high speed gear.  This gear has a "slick" side and a machined side.  The slick side goes against the left washer.  This side has a machined recess to accept and maintain the position of the middle washer
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_06_18885376.jpeg)
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Remove the cross shaft.  BAD BAD PICTURE!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_06_188861857.jpeg)
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and the cross shaft spring.  I use a “Q” tip to insert into the spring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_06_188872027.jpeg)
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Last part on the gear side of the drive shaft is the right washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_07_188881193.jpeg)
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Turn the drive shaft over, remove in order the pusher “E” clip, pusher washer and pusher spring from the pusher.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_08_188901813.jpeg)
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After these components are removed, the pusher can be pulled out the gear side of the drive shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_10_18894840.jpeg)
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Here are the components of the gear shift mechanism.  In general, gear change from high to low speed is accomplished when the pusher “pushes” the shaft fork out of the slots in the high speed gear and into the slots in the low speed gear to initiate low speed operation.  Also, note that the parts list/breakdown seems to show the pusher spring being inserted on the gear side of the drive shaft.  IT DOES NOT!  It is inserted into the handle side of the drive shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_08_188911478.jpeg)
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Here are the gears and spacers that are mounted on the "gear" side of the drive shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_09_188921663.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_09_188931644.jpeg)
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Time to inspect the drive shaft bearings.  As usual, after removing the bearing shields I find the bearings to be hard used, very dirty and with little lubrication.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_10_18895804.jpeg)
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Starting the clean up procedure, I put all of the components, including bearings, in my cleaning solution.  I clean every part.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_10_188961449.jpeg)
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Remove the cam assembly from the cam housing and then remove the pinion bearing from the cam.  I just use the preset adjusting screw to drive the bearing out of its recess.  As you turn the preset screw in, the bearing comes out.  Wonder if there is a lateral load on this bearing?
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_11_18898361.jpeg)
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Here are all the components of the cam assembly.  All will be cleaned and lubed with fresh grease prior to reinstallation.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_12_188992289.jpeg)
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Remove the pinion bearing shields and clean the bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_12_189001090.jpeg)
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Like the drive shaft bearings, it is dirty, poorly lubricated for its application and needs some TLC.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_12_189011469.jpeg)
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Next, it’s a simple task to remove the lever quadrant and spacers.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_13_189021412.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_13_189032187.jpeg)
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All the components are off the right side plate, so the plate can be cleaned.  I use pipe cleaners in all of the screw holes.  I look for any corrosion spots and pay special attention to any threaded holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_14_1890475.jpeg)

Clean as a pin,  ready for reassembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_14_189051241.jpeg)
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Think for a second.  What is the best order to reassemble the components of the right side plate?  You can set up your own procedure, but I’ve found that its best to start with the alert clicker assembly , then the drag lever glide plate and spacers, followed by the drag cam assembly containing the pinion bearing.  Then back on the outside of the right side plate install the drag lever followed by the cover plate which contains the drag preset knob.

In this tutorial you'll see that I didn't follow this procedure so you’ll see that I installed the cam housing and cam first and that assembly just kept falling out of the side plate as I worked on other parts.

Anyway, next install the drive shaft which contains the gears, spacers and gear shift mechanism followed by the drive shaft washer, handle, handle washer and then the crank arm nut.
 
The next part is optional, should you go ahead and complete reassembly of right side plate and test the external shifting mechanism, or wait until after the reel is totally reassembled?  I’ve done it both ways, but I think it’s best to go ahead and do it now so that if there’s a problem you can correct it before you move on.  In this tutorial I install the gear shift mechanism and crank arm cover and test gear shift operation before proceeding.

So, let’s start with the alert clicker.  I didn’t show how to remove the clicker but you’ll see that it’s fairly simple to do when we reinstall.

Here are the components of the clicker assembly.  All have been cleaned.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_15_189141414.jpeg)
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Lube the clicker pin and the clicker spring.  Install the spring on the pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_15_189152075.jpeg)
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Insert the pin into the clicker knob...
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_15_18916822.jpeg)
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and then install the clicker head pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_16_189171741.jpeg)
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Lube the side plate and Install the clicker plastic washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_16_189191337.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_17_18920836.jpeg)
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Put the clicker spacer tube on the clicker pin and install the clicker assembly into the side plate.  My picture of the tube was lousy so I left it out.  You can see the tube just under my thumb.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_17_189211886.jpeg)
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Next place the clicker position retention ball in the slot.....
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_17_189222489.jpeg)
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followed by the small spring.  Purpose of the ball is to maintain on/off position of the alert clicker.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_18_189231829.jpeg)
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Place the clicker washer over the clicker pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_18_18924828.jpeg)
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Next, install the clicker “C” ring to hold the assembly together.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_19_18926820.jpeg)
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Install the guide pin and then the clicker guide.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_19_1892852.jpeg)
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Add the screws and lock washers and this part is complete.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_20_18929202.jpeg)
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Next, to assemble the glide plate, start by lubing the screw holes and the back side of the glide plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_20_18930186.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_21_189311842.jpeg)
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and install the screws.  A note, I’ve found the best implement to apply lube to the inside of screw holes is a tooth pick.  I just dip the toothpick in the Yamaha Marine Grease and then rub it around the threads on the interior of the screw hole.  I seem to think this applies just the right amount of grease.  I also brush all screws with a light coating of grease before installation.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_21_18932129.jpeg)
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Next, lube and install the drag cam housing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_15_18906498.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_12_15_18907277.jpeg)
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Then the cam housing washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_12_18908215.jpeg)
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Insert the male cam pins into the male cam.  I found these pins to fit pretty tightly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_12_189091318.jpeg)
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Next install the preset nut into the cam...Put it in the cam and use a screwdriver to back it into position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_13_18910100.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_13_18911556.jpeg)
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Next install the pinion bearing.  The bearing has been thoroughly cleaned and repacked, and the plastic shields were reinstalled
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_14_18913122.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_20_14_18912545.jpeg)
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Time to start reassembly of the two speed shift control mechanism.  Here, all of the components of this assembly have been cleaned in solution and dried off.  The parts are arranged, more or less, in the order that they go together, left to right.  As you assemble this mechanism, pay particular attention to lubrication, most of the reel's work is accomplished here.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_42_19366546.jpeg)
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Start by lubing the interior of the drive shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_43_193681086.jpeg)
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Lube and Insert the pusher into the gear side of the drive shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_43_193691730.jpeg)
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Next, lube the pusher spring and insert into the drive shaft over the pusher shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_44_19370324.jpeg)
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(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_45_19373933.jpeg)
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Next, install the pusher washer over the end of the pusher shaft
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_45_193748.jpeg)
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Followed by the “E” clip that holds this side of the assembly together.  This is a little hard to work on.  It is closely machined and there’s not much space to work with, so patience is required. The washer must set exactly on top of the spring and the clip must set exactly on top of the washer.  This seems elemental but I found that both the washer and the clip wanted to become entangled in the last couple of rings of the spring. I have a very small pair of needle nose pliers (Harbor Freight) that works well with compressing the clip into place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_46_193761151.jpeg)
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This is what it looks like when properly installed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_46_193772418.jpeg)
DSCN1690

Next, turn the drive shaft over and install the right washer.  The parts list seems to show that the cross shaft gets installed first but it doesn’t.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_47_193782323.jpeg)
DSCN1691

Next, insert the cross shaft spring into the recess provided in the pusher.  Looking in the end of the drive shaft you can see the end of the spring residing in it's recess in the pusher shaft..
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_47_19379872.jpeg)
DSCN1692

Next insert the shaft fork  through the slot provided in the drive shaft, with the little nub facing towards the outside of the drive shaft. This is the most difficult part of the process.  The pusher spring must be compressed (I set the drive shaft of a small wood dowel and press downward) to align the slot in the pusher that the cross shaft rides in with the slot in the drive shaft.  Then, the cross shaft spring must be compressed in order to slide the cross shaft into position.  There’s a few things going on at the same time so some dexterity is required.  In retrospect, I think that installing just the crank arm nut might compress the pusher spring enough to do that part of the process.  I'll investigate that next time.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_47_193802151.jpeg)
DSCN1693

You have to look closely, but the well lubed cross shaft is in position, setting on top of the cross shaft spring.  The poor quality of the picture is due to my camera automatically focusing on the gear in the back ground.  I know I could manually change the focus but I didn’t think about it at the time.  Note that the outside edges of the cross shaft ride on the right washer, so if you put the cross shaft in first you could not get the right washer into place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_48_193811727.jpeg)
DSCN1694

Time to install the high speed gear.  The gear “non machined” side goes on to the drive shaft first.  Install and align the cross shaft with the slots cut for that purpose in the gear.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_48_193821385.jpeg)
DSCN1696

Next, install the center washer into the recess provided in the high speed gear.  Note that the center washer is not orientation sensitive.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_48_193831132.jpeg)
DSCN1697

Next, install the low speed gear.  This side faces the center washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_49_19384453.jpeg)
DSCN1698

Here the low speed gear is installed.  Note the recess in the gear that is provided for the left washer to ride in.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_49_193852382.jpeg)
DSCN1699

Here, the left washer is installed.  The tabs on the washer are located into the slots cut in the end of the drive shaft. Note that they are facing and are positioned against the stop nut.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_49_193861758.jpeg)
DSCN1700

Install the stop nut, don’t forget, left hand threads.  Note I use the handle to provide back up.  Don’t overtighten.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_49_193872497.jpeg)
DSCN1701

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_50_193881204.jpeg)
DSCN1702

Now, to insert the assembly into the right side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_50_193891540.jpeg)
DSCN1703

Lube the side plate where the drive shaft goes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_22_56_18951124.jpeg)
DSCN1522

Install the inner drive shaft bearing and drive shaft tube onto the drive shaft and insert into the right side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_50_19390813.jpeg)
DSCN1704

Interior look at the gears installed.  Note the spacing of the gears.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_51_193911013.jpeg)
DSCN1705

Install the outside drive shaft bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_51_193921030.jpeg)
DSCN1706

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_51_193931603.jpeg)
DSCN1707

Install the drive shaft washer with the raised portion contacting the outside drive shaft bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_51_19394668.jpeg)
DSCN1708

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_52_193952130.jpeg)
DSCN1709

Install the handle on to the drive shaft followed by the handle washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_52_193962220.jpeg)
DSCN1710

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_52_193972210.jpeg)
DSCN1711

Install the crank arm nut followed by the lock plate.  Note that the lock plate release arm spring attachment point is offset. The offset faces upwards. Snug up the lock nut until the screw holes in the lock plate and crank arm cover are aligned.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_53_19398863.jpeg)
DSCN1712

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_53_19399547.jpeg)
DSCN1713

Install the release arm and connect the release arm spring.  Remember, as the pin is pushed to select low speed operation, the cut in the release arm is pulled into, and captured, at a cut on the push knob shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_53_19400672.jpeg)
DSCN1714

Install and tighten the crank arm cover.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_54_19401369.jpeg)
DSCN1715

Now is the time to test the shift mechanism.  Place a finger on the high speed gear and slowly rotate the crank arm.  The cross shaft is currently in the slots of the high speed gear, so that gear will turn.  Move your finger to the low speed gear and press lightly.  The low speed gear should spin freely under your finger tip.  

Now, push the push knob to select low speed operation.  The knob should move in freely and the release arm should snap into position as the low speed selection is captured.  Put a finger lightly on the high speed gear, now it should be the one to rotate freely.  Move the finger to the low speed gear and see that is now under the control of the crank arm.  

Finally, press the release arm and the push knob should pop back out into the high speed position.

If all of this happens as described, the gear mechanism has been reassembled properly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_17_07_17_9_02_54_1940227.jpeg)
DSCN1716

So, the right side plate is finished and it can now be mounted on the reel frame.  The frame has been cleaned thoroughly, the screw holes and frame edge where the side plate contacts it has been lightly coated with lube.

First, install the right side harness lug.

Install the drag lever stops in the side plate in the appropriate locations.  Remember the flat topped stop is the strike stop and the bullet shaped stop is the free spool stop.  The stops are just pressed into position.

Align the side plate to the frame and install the screws.  I find it best to install the screws loosely at first so the plate and frame fit up can adjust as additional screws are added.

Time to add the rod mount to the frame.  I lube these components and screws very well because they’re active corrosion areas.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_16_194042073.jpeg)
DSCN0003

Install and tighten the mounting screws.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_16_194081434.jpeg)
DSCN0004

Time to disassemble and clean the spool assembly.  It seems to me that the AVET spool is the easiest two-speed spool to work on and maintain.

First, remove the right brake pad, it slides right off of the spool shaft. The parts list shows a screw holding the disc on to the shaft, but this reel doesn’t have that.   Also note that in this picture that the “E” clips that secure the brake disc to the spool are mounted in brake disc recesses.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_16_194091577.jpeg)
DSCN0005

I actually very lightly mark the original position of the brake disc to a spool pin location so that I can reinstall the brake disc back in its original location. Here, I’ve removed the first of the “E” clips.  After removing the  three clips you can remove and set aside the brake disc.  Take special care to remove and store the small springs that the brake disc rides on.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_17_19410894.jpeg)
DSCN0006

Next remove the shaft end pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_40_14_194191480.jpeg)
DSCN1552

Followed by the brake pad retracting spring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_17_189991069.jpeg)
DSCN1577

I remove and store the brake disc springs and clips and store them in a separate container.  These are easily lost if just set on your work bench.  The biggest problem is they will stick to greasy wiping materials and be moved about.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_40_14_194232051.jpeg)
DSCN1554

Note that the E clips are installed in recesses in the brake disc.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_15_07_17_4_18_42_191481519.jpeg)
DSCN1555

Next, remove the inner brake pad.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_08_189802384.jpeg)
DSCN1556

Followed by the inner pin
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_08_189811419.jpeg)
DSCN1557

and the spool bearing.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_15_07_17_4_18_43_1915143.jpeg)
DSCN1558

The spool shaft assembly can then be removed from the other side of the spool.  Here, I’ve cleaned the pinions and bearings.  I’ve repacked the bearings with fresh grease.  I don’t use oil in these bearings
because I don’t need a lot of free spool for a kite reel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_17_19411422.jpeg)
DSCN0010

To facilitate cleaning, I then remove the clicker plate screws and clicker plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_17_19412477.jpeg)
DSCN0014

(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_09_18983990.jpeg)
DSCN1560

As usual, remove the shields, clean and repack the bearings with fresh lube.  I use grease as noted above.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_10_189842218.jpeg)
DSCN1561

As I was removing the bearings from the shaft, I noted that there were ridges around the holes drilled in the shaft for the shaft pins.  I removed the ridges with a small file.  A bearing should slide over these holes with no hesitation, but originally they were getting caught there.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_11_189861322.jpeg)
DSCN1562

Clean the spool thoroughly.  Begin reassembly by reinstalling the clicker plate.  I put a light coat of grease on the screws, the spool and the plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_11_189861322.jpeg)
DSCN1563


The pinion gears are cleaned and lubed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_11_18988234.jpeg)
DSCN1566

The spool bearings are repacked and the shields were reinstalled.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_12_18989603.jpeg)
DSCN1567

(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_12_18990129.jpeg)
DSCN1568

Next, lube the spool shaft and slide the shaft spacer and right side bearing into position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_13_189922110.jpeg)
DSCN1570

Then slide the spool shaft back into the spool.  Be sure to lube the spool internals.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_13_189932207.jpeg)
DSCN1571

Then put the left side bearing in place.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_14_189942016.jpeg)
DSCN1572

Followed by the shaft pin.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_14_189951156.jpeg)
DSCN1573

Followed by by inside brake pad.  Mate the pad up with the inner pin.  Both brake pads have been lubed with Cal’s grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_15_18996312.jpeg)
DSCN1574

(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_15_18997781.jpeg)
DSCN1575

Install the retracting spring.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_17_189991069.jpeg)
DSCN1577

And the outer pin.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_17_190001986.jpeg)
DSCN1578

Lightly lube the side of the spool paying particular attention to the pins that the brake disc rides on and the holes where the springs reside.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_17_194131565.jpeg)
DSCN0024

Carefully position the brake disc over the pins being careful not to dislodge the springs.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_18_19414323.jpeg)
DSCN0025

and install the “E” clips to hold the plate in position.  In my case I align and and install the plate in
the “marked” location.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_18_19415346.jpeg)
DSCN0026

All that remains to be done is slide the outer brake pad on to the shaft.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_18_1941679.jpeg)
DSCN0027

The spool is ready to be mounted into the reel body.  I tried to put the clam shells on the shaft and then install the spool but that didn’t work.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_19_194171593.jpeg)
DSCN0028

I then put them, centered and held in place with grease, on the pinion bearing and the spool slid right into position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_14_19_194181746.jpeg)
DSCN0029

The left side has very few components, thus is easily serviceable. Total service required is to remove, clean and relube the bearing.  Remove and clean the anti reverse dogs and springs.  Clean and lube the screws. Clean the side plate and reassemble.

The left side plate...It’s pretty clean, just covered with dry, dirty grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_13_07_17_7_07_29_188521532.jpeg)
DSCN1416

Here are the components removed from the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/18/1203_14_07_17_1_40_18_190021759.jpeg)
DSCN1580

Every thing is all cleaned up.  Ready for reassembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_14_07_17_1_40_19_19005363.jpeg)
DSCN1583

Start by putting a light coat of grease on the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_14_07_17_1_40_20_190061944.jpeg)
DSCN1584

Install the anti reverse dogs and springs.  Note the small nylon washer goes under the dog.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_14_07_17_1_40_21_190081240.jpeg)
DSCN1586

I hold the dog and push it towards the center of the plate as I tighten the screw on the copper return spring.  It seems to me that this lets the dog ride in the best position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_14_07_17_1_40_21_19009366.jpeg)
DSCN1587

Bearing has been cleaned and repacked with Yamaha Marine Grease, time to reinstall the shields.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_15_07_17_9_20_39_19176969.jpeg)
DSCN1588

Reinstall the bearing in the side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_15_07_17_9_20_40_19177804.jpeg)
DSCN1589

All that remains to be done is to secure the left side plate onto the reel frame being sure the anti reverse dogs are seated properly in the drag cover.  And then, believe it or not, we're finished!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/1203_18_07_17_1_51_35_194241369.jpeg)
DSCN0031



Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Tightlines667 on July 27, 2016, 11:45:53 AM
Great reel,, and great tutorial.  Looks like you put alot of work into this.  Thank you for your efforts here.  

Definately deserves a wrench.

*Edit.

Also, this is the first Avet tutorial I have seen on the site that shows the complete disassembly of the 2 speed shift mechanism.  

It deserves a sticky.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on July 27, 2016, 11:58:35 AM
Thanks tightlines, as you can see from the incomplete passages at the bottom, I have a long way to go.  Alan was nice enough to send me a wrench a while back, I use it all the time.

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Rancanfish on August 07, 2016, 07:50:20 AM
Just an amazing breakdown and tutorial.

 I will never have a reel this size as I don't fish like you, but I was totally submerged in every step and photo.

Your comments were so concise and understandable that I believe I could work on this one too if I ever had to.

Thank you for putting so much effort into producing an awesome service guide.

You deserve the gold version of the Tani wrench.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: akfish on August 07, 2016, 01:25:04 PM
Absolutely amazing tutorial. I learned a lot -- and I work on these reels fairly often.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on August 08, 2016, 08:42:07 AM
Thanks folks for the nice comments.  I still have other things to edit and correct, but I'm getting there.

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 05, 2017, 09:47:15 PM
Very good tutorial, do you know if the 50w is very different?


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Bryan Young on March 05, 2017, 10:50:23 PM
Not much different. I think the metal drag plate is a full circle if I recall correctly.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 05, 2017, 11:25:22 PM
Not much different. I think the metal drag plate is a full circle if I recall correctly.

Thanks for the reply, do you know of any 50w/2speed guides?  There is one pinned but sadly the links to the pictures aren't working.



Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on March 06, 2017, 04:01:59 AM
Hi Guys,

The 80 and the 50 wide are very, very similar.  I have both of these reels, work on them when they need it, and there are just some small differences.  The drive gear stack up, shift mechanism, bearings, etc., are the same.

If you take pictures as you take your 50W apart, you'll be able to compare them accurately to the 80.

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 06, 2017, 10:39:39 AM
Hi Guys,

The 80 and the 50 wide are very, very similar.  I have both of these reels, work on them when they need it, and there are just some small differences.  The drive gear stack up, shift mechanism, bearings, etc., are the same.

If you take pictures as you take your 50W apart, you'll be able to compare them accurately to the 80.

josa1

Thanks for suggestions and taking the time to put this guide together.  A couple of questions if I may pick your brain :)  Are there any special tools needed?  I know the hex bits are needed and box wrench but anything else that is essential?   Also, how did you handle the pitting on the spool, did you do anything specific to it?


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on March 06, 2017, 04:26:39 PM
Hi cabrego,

No, no special tools required except the ones you mentioned.

I seem to have a hard time removing the "C" rings without deforming them.  I've found it's best to slide the rings off the part it's holding together instead of opening them up enough to pull them off side ways. If you open them up they will not return to their original shape.  If you do tweak them up a bit, just take a couple pairs of needle nose pliers and reshape them.

As noted in the post, putting the cross shaft back in position in the drive shaft was a little challenging.  You have to compress the cross shaft spring and the pusher spring and angle the cross shaft to get it started.  I haven't had the reel apart since I did the post so don't know if screwing the handle nut in the drive shaft will compress the pusher spring and take that problem away.  But give it a try and see if it helps.

I can offer more assistance if you need it, but you probably won't.  They're simple to work on, and, they are very strong and fish hard!  Good reels to take fishing.

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 06, 2017, 10:21:59 PM
Hi cabrego,

No, no special tools required except the ones you mentioned.

I seem to have a hard time removing the "C" rings without deforming them.  I've found it's best to slide the rings off the part it's holding together instead of opening them up enough to pull them off side ways. If you open them up they will not return to their original shape.  If you do tweak them up a bit, just take a couple pairs of needle nose pliers and reshape them.

As noted in the post, putting the cross shaft back in position in the drive shaft was a little challenging.  You have to compress the cross shaft spring and the pusher spring and angle the cross shaft to get it started.  I haven't had the reel apart since I did the post so don't know if screwing the handle nut in the drive shaft will compress the pusher spring and take that problem away.  But give it a try and see if it helps.

I can offer more assistance if you need it, but you probably won't.  They're simple to work on, and, they are very strong and fish hard!  Good reels to take fishing.

josa1

josa1, I decided to get a little comfortable with the reel and venture into taking the side plate off to get a glimpse into the condition of the reel.  Overall, it's in much better condition than I was expecting.  I may decide to clean it further but I ran into a hiccup when putting it back together.  Keep in mind I only removed the left side plate and extracted the spool.  When I put it back together I am no longer able to turn the reel nor am I able to move the drag level.  I am little confused because it seems like it's super simple but perhaps the spool isn't seated properly?  I was able to completely close the reel however the spool is locked and so is the drag lever.  Any idea what I fouled up?


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on March 07, 2017, 03:45:52 AM
Welcome to the "unexpected" encounters of reel repair!

Did you take the left or right side plate off?

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 07, 2017, 04:04:37 AM
Welcome to the "unexpected" encounters of reel repair!

Did you take the left or right side plate off?

josa1

I took off the left side plate and removed the spool. I didn't take anything else apart.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on March 07, 2017, 04:46:24 AM
Start here........

Remove the left side plate again.  Make sure the pinion bearing and the drag control apparatus is fully seated in the right side plate.  Back the preset off to minimum, turn preset knob all the way to the counterclockwise position.

Reinstall the spool.  With the right side place facing down and the spool in place, turn the handle of the reel until the spool rotates normally, reel should be in the high speed position at this time.

Reinstall the left side plate, feel the plate as it goes on.  The drag dogs must fit properly inside the drag cover.  Pull the left side plate screws up slowly and evenly, turning the handle occasionally to be sure the spool still turns.  If it doesn't you'll have to start again.

This lock up by the way is usually caused by the pinion gears not being properly aligned with the main drive gears.

The right side plate should look like this before you reinstall the spool...


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 07, 2017, 10:58:36 AM
Start here........

Remove the left side plate again.  Make sure the pinion bearing and the drag control apparatus is fully seated in the right side plate.  Back the preset off to minimum, turn preset knob all the way to the counterclockwise position.

Reinstall the spool.  With the right side place facing down and the spool in place, turn the handle of the reel until the spool rotates normally, reel should be in the high speed position at this time.

Reinstall the left side plate, feel the plate as it goes on.  The drag dogs must fit properly inside the drag cover.  Pull the left side plate screws up slowly and evenly, turning the handle occasionally to be sure the spool still turns.  If it doesn't you'll have to start again.




This lock up by the way is usually caused by the pinion gears not being properly aligned with the main drive gears.

The right side plate should look like this before you reinstall the spool...


What position should the drag lever be in?  Thanks I will let you know how it goes


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Tightlines667 on March 07, 2017, 11:13:54 AM
Start here........

Remove the left side plate again.  Make sure the pinion bearing and the drag control apparatus is fully seated in the right side plate.  Back the preset off to minimum, turn preset knob all the way to the counterclockwise position.

Reinstall the spool.  With the right side place facing down and the spool in place, turn the handle of the reel until the spool rotates normally, reel should be in the high speed position at this time.

Reinstall the left side plate, feel the plate as it goes on.  The drag dogs must fit properly inside the drag cover.  Pull the left side plate screws up slowly and evenly, turning the handle occasionally to be sure the spool still turns.  If it doesn't you'll have to start again.




This lock up by the way is usually caused by the pinion gears not being properly aligned with the main drive gears.

The right side plate should look like this before you reinstall the spool...


What position should the drag lever be in?  Thanks I will let you know how it goes

Check to make sure the cam assembly is fully seated and test the function with the spool removed, by putting pressure on the cam and moving the lever from freespool to strike and back.  Make sure it is back in freespool b4 (w/cam and pinion bearing all the way in) reassembling.  Then install the spool, then install tailplate.. making dure the dogs fully seat and test antireverse function b4 tightening tailplate screws.

John


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on March 07, 2017, 02:45:19 PM
Drag lever should be in the FREE position, you want the cam and pinion bearing to be fully inside the right side plate.  This gives you maximum room to install the spool properly.

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 07, 2017, 05:48:59 PM
Thanks for the tips.  I believe I've figured out that the double dogs aren't seating correctly in the disc brake.  I am not sure what I need to do to get them to seat correctly.  I pointed the double dogs in the 'wrong direction' and everything went together great and seemed to work, but of course the anti-reverse function did not work.

So at least I now know what my issue is,  is there a trick to get the double dogs to seat properly in the disk break?  It seems that they should align by default but apparently, I am doing something wrong.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Tightlines667 on March 07, 2017, 05:58:10 PM
Thanks for the tips.  I believe I've figured out that the double dogs aren't seating correctly in the disc brake.  I am not sure what I need to do to get them to seat correctly.  I pointed the double dogs in the 'wrong direction' and everything went together great and seemed to work, but of course the anti-reverse function did not work.

So at least I now know what my issue is,  is there a trick to get the double dogs to seat properly in the disk break?  It seems that they should align by default but apparently, I am doing something wrong.

Yes.

Place the dogs against the springs (in the correct orientation).  Then as you put the sideplate on rorate it in the counterclockwise direction slightly as you seat it, or rotate the spool in the clockwise direction (as you see it from the tailplate).  You should hear the dogs clicking/working, once you get it right.  Don't tighten down the screws until you get it to fully seat.

John


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: cabrego on March 08, 2017, 11:12:41 PM
Thanks for your help, you guys are awesome.  I was able to install the spool with the dogs seated properly.  I can hear the buzzing of the dogs as I crank the reel, I assume this is normal.    Now I need to do the same thing to my 30w, mxl raptor, and a few others!


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: josa1 on March 09, 2017, 03:33:39 PM
Lot of fun challenges to come!

josa1


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Fisherman1987 on July 27, 2019, 01:10:14 PM
Hi Sir! Thank’s this i open my TRX 80w and clean all the sand was inside the reel! But I’m confused with the Belleville Washers part # 27 on my reel. Those two washers have a conical form like a high point side they go placed back facing each other with both’s high point side of the washers facing towards the bearing (right side plate) or they go in a different position? Thank You I will appreciate your help! Anthony


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Tightlines667 on July 27, 2019, 01:47:54 PM
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Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Fisherman1987 on July 27, 2019, 02:57:50 PM
Thank You Very Much!!! Last question if I put the Belleville Washers in the wrong direction I can break the reel? Thank you again!!!


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: SoCalAngler on July 28, 2019, 09:50:30 AM
Thank You Very Much!!! Last question if I put the Belleville Washers in the wrong direction I can break the reel? Thank you again!!!

Not likely but you may have freespool issues. Placing them like this (( or )) shortens the length of the spacing on the spool shaft and the spool could rub on the frame. Also, if you place them like this )( you could get some rubbing on the bearing or pinion gear they rest against.


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Fisherman1987 on July 28, 2019, 11:22:32 AM
Thank You Sir!!! Fixed!!


Title: Re: AVET PRO EX80,,SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE
Post by: Donnyboat on July 28, 2019, 02:16:59 PM
Well Joe, looking back on this tutorial, they dont come any better than that, thanks Joe for sharing, great job, cheers Don.