Hi every one, hope your all keeping well, yes I`m at it again, I need some schematics for a Dam Quick 550 reel, trying to search for parts I need from Fred, also I have the spool off the 550 reel there is a clicker cog, that I am having trouble removing, i see it has a boss under it would that boss have a screw in it, or a pin, do I have to hold my mouth the right way to get @ it, cheers Don
Hi Don --
If you need to get it off --
(I have maybe only removed 2 out of a thousand of these over the years, really no need unless corroded -- just a clean off and a half drop of oil)
Pry it up with a couple of knife blades between the click tongue and head of the brass fluted insert fastener.
If you twist the fastener -- it will not re-install securely.
Here is the schematic and parts list.
Show us a pic of your reel, if possible.
Best,
Fred
thanks fred, for your fast reply and help, but I think your confused with the cogs, the one I am talking about, is the flat cog that the spool sits on, to operate the clicker, not the bale arm one, I will send you an email with photos of the 550 reel, I can also send you some photos of the Master Mariner 349 if you wish to place it on the other post I had, the 349 was in real bad condition when I got it, but looks good now I will send you a before and after photos, its not possible for me to place photos till I update my computer, cheers Don.
I might be mistaken, Donny --
The pics I sent you show the click tongue, click tongue spring, and the click tongue press-in brass keeper.
These are part numbers 1000014, 1000015, 1000016 -- and they go under the spool to interact with the toothed clicker gear attached to the spool axle.
Nothing to do with a bail assembly, however?
So I guess I am confused -- straighten me out...
I just pulled the spool off of a 550 -- plus pulled extra parts from the bins to show members what they were.
If there is a different thing you need -- look at the schematic, and let me know the name and part number of the item/items you believe you are referring to.
Glad to post your pics if you email them to me.
Best,
Fred
Thanks again Fred, the schematics show that the part maybe fixed to the shaft, shaft No 100-561, there is a flat gog on the shaft it has about 30 teeth that click the clicker, do I have to get that cog off to undo the nut below it, I will send you a photo as soon as I can get my wife out of her iglue, her mobile take cleerer photos than my camera, cheers Don.
OK, I see what you are trying to do now, Don.
Unless absolutely necessary -- no need to take off the flat wheel with teeth -- just pop off the sideplate and remove the screw from the connecting block piece at the bottom of the axle -- the axle will just slide all of the way out so you can get the rotor nut off.
Hint:
On a Quick -- they may seem complicated -- but they are not...
(4) basic assemblies that go together easily when each is completed on its own --
-- rotor and bail assembly
-- body and frame assembly with the worm drive in place
-- crank handle with the main gear attached
-- spool and drag system
1) Do the worm drive and bearing frame assembly, set aside
2) Do the complete rotor and bail assembly, set aside
3) Do the spool assembly, set aside
4) Do the crank, main gear, and A/R system, set aside
Attach the complete rotor to the body with the drive plate, lock washer, and hex nut.
Insert the crank assembly into the body.
Insert the axle into the rotor pinion worm gear.
Attach the oscillation arm to the connecting block at the bottom of the shaft -- then the other end of the arm to the main gear -- check for proper operation -- screw the side plate in place.
Screw on the spool and drag knob.
Done.
Best,
Fred
Thanks Fred, 11am here now do you ever sleep, really apretiate it Fred, cheers don, I will try to send you a Photo later @ a decent hour your time thanks again, also I have 2 550`s right hand wind also 1 left hand wind, can I convert the left hand wind back to right wind with out geting any part ?.
Right, Don --
On a 550, they will switch from right to left -- or back, just by switching the connecting block to the other side of the oscillation arm -- and installing the 550 badge plate on the opposite side from the crank.
That is one of the beauties of most DAM Quicks -- the cranks can either be left or right -- without lessening the integrity and strength of the drive train like on some modern cheaper reels.
Or in the case of a Mitchell -- there is a pretty long list of parts that must be changed out due to the opposite rotation of the rotor head also -- gears, bails, springs, and much more.
In the case of most Penns of this vintage -- another reel needs to be purchased.
Either way -- the Quick engineers had it down dead simple and easy.
Best,
Fred
all good Fred i have the reel total dismantled now, I dont think I need any part for this one, I have cleaned the bearing out, it is turning real smooth now, see how the other 2 reels are like once I open them, Fred could you tell us if these 550 reels are okay for ocean fishing or fresh water, thanks again, cheers don.
They are designed for saltwater fishing, Don --
However, like many of the spinners from the 60's and 70's -- they must first be prepped with Marine grade grease for salt intrusion issues -- cleaned very thoroughly after use -- this is not always practical or possible.
And sometimes, a fisherman's skill set when it comes to reel maintenance -- is just not adequate.
That is why you see so many corroded 40 year old spinners -- sometimes best to just salvage what one can -- and toss the rest.
A better salt spinner would be an old green Quick Super, large Penn such as a 706, or some of the Penn SS series.
For more modern Salt Spinners -- one can spend from $100 to $1300.
For my consideration, and from my experience -- I would consider a Fin-Nor Lethal 100 -- in the range of slightly over $100, USD.
Just my opinions.
Best,
Fred
good thanks Fred, not that i need to fish salt water with these reels just now, I have plenty of old large reels in the 8,000 to 9,000 catagory to fish with, I have 80lbs braid on them, some where around 200Metres to 250, I need that if I am bottom bouncing, just in case I get snagged, cheer Don.
Here is one of Don's DAM Quick 550's --
Best,
Fred
Yes good thanks Fred, the way you explained how to service the reel, was real good value, just for the other members, I did have trouble turning the rotor on 1 off the others, so I had to put the gearing back together, leaving the nut loose that holds the rotor firm and turning the rotor, to loosen it then dismantling it again, when I put the first one back together, I did`nt have any part left over, thats a first for me, Ha haa, thanks again Fred, cheers Don.
Fred I am working on the left hand wind 550 reel now, you said that I would not need any parts to turn it into a right hand winding reel, maybe I am confused, part No-100-563 is called a slide, the part that connects to the slide is called connecting Piece, part No 100-564, it is an alloy block and the way I am looking @ it, I think there possibly a Right hand one, and a Left hand one, that is the part that the shaft goes throu the middle of & 2 screws with locking washer hold it in place, could you check it out when its connected to the slide please, see what you think thanks, cheers Don
Easy fix, Don --
Just remove the connecting block from the connecting arm -- and place it on the other side of the arm.
Everything will work perfectly.
Best,
Fred
okay Fred I will open it again & see what I can do, thank Fred, cheers Don.
For Fred & the interest to other members, I had to take the 2 screws out,and end for end the connecting block, to convert the reel from left hand winde to right hand, not place it on the other side of the slide, all working good now, also had to wash the bearing out, relube & real smooth, thanks again Fred, cheers Don, Now start on the Mitchells, mostly 489`s.
What is the difference between 500 and 550N?
Quote from: Riy2018 on January 11, 2019, 05:13:50 PM
What is the difference between 500 and 550N?
There are several differences. You can't switch a 550N from right hand to left hand retrieve, but you can on a 550. Also the anti-reverse mechanisms are different. The spools won't interchange and the ratchet wheel on a 550N is plastic, while the 550 ratchet wheel is metal. The bail setups are completely different but I believe they both share the same bail spring. I have a couple of both reels and the 550N feels more balanced, is quieter and smoother, but the 550 is a stronger, more well built reel in my opinion.
my 2 cents worth. I have a few of these older Quicks. I had a 550N but traded it off. If I remember correctly, It seems to me the 550"N" was narrower than the plain 550. Is that the case with all the "N" series reels ? Perhaps that is what the N stands for - but I do not know this for sure.
Greg
Quote from: festus on January 11, 2019, 05:50:33 PM
Quote from: Riy2018 on January 11, 2019, 05:13:50 PM
What is the difference between 500 and 550N?
There are several differences. You can't switch a 550N from right hand to left hand retrieve, but you can on a 550. Also the anti-reverse mechanisms are different. The spools won't interchange and the ratchet wheel on a 550N is plastic, while the 550 ratchet wheel is metal. The bail setups are completely different but I believe they both share the same bail spring. I have a couple of both reels and the 550N feels more balanced, is quieter and smoother, but the 550 is a stronger, more well built reel in my opinion.
thank you for information. Good I didn't went for 550N. will look again for 500.
Hello Gentlemen.... 1st post . longtime lurker. I wanted to share a recently acquired D.A.M. Quick 550, and, ask a few questions.
I tracked this on ebay ...offered $15 + 10 ship. Upon arrival found the reel to be in pretty good nick... functional. I disassembled,
cleaned, lubricated. These are tank like German engineering. Appears they left the plastic bits out. Hefty to lift. The bail works but
on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure. My questions: What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag
indicate ? The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do ? This reel has a metal spool and Bakelite/
Plastic handle knob... ? 60's-70's. I'm thinking 20 lb. test mono.... reasonable for surf fishing ?
A little history... when stationed in Germany in the 70's these were some of the best line of reels available..always wanted to own
one, so I thought worth the purchase price.
Will not win any beauty contest , total lack of modern era bling... but, great design. 8) Any comments appreciated.
Charles
https://imgur.com/a/81azzbM
Quote from: cdaline on February 25, 2019, 07:13:02 PM
Hello Gentlemen.... 1st post . longtime lurker. I wanted to share a recently acquired D.A.M. Quick 550, and, ask a few questions.
The bail works but on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure.
Check the copper brake ring to make sure the ramps are not bent too far down. Also, there should be a surgical tube on the trip lever. Also, sometimes the trip lever needs to be adjusted to make proper contact with the brake ring in order to trip during the first rotor rotation.
My questions: What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag indicate?
They are merely an indicator to be able to have some idea of where you have set your drag — or where you have it set at strike, fish-on, and fighting — just some numbers. I never use the numbers — "feel" for the conditions and size of the fish is what I generally go by.
The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position.
This allows one to easily switch from left to right crank — without having to buy a bunch of expensive parts or locate parts that are not easy to find — for no reason. Just the simplest way to approach lefties and righties.
The maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do?
Yes, there is beveled and spring-loaded Anti-Reverse pin that drops into one of eight holes on the inside of the bronze main gear. So every 45 degrees, or eight times per crank rotation — the maroon sheathed ball lever will jump — indicating all is working as it should — as well as giving the angler an audible indication that the lever is ready for fishing.
This reel has a metal spool and Bakelite/
Plastic handle knob... ? 60's-70's. I'm thinking 20 lb. test mono.... reasonable for surf fishing?
If the spool is metal — someone knew what they were doing. It is a metal spool from an old DQ 270 Super. Plastic is the original 550 spool. 20 pound mono is good.
Will not win any beauty contest , total lack of modern era bling... but, great design. 8) Any comments appreciated.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... for me function, generational durability, simplicity, clever engineering, good materials, tight tolerances, and repeatable capability — are beautiful.
Tough reels. But they also get used in tough conditions. So if any parts are worn — they could usually be tweaked back into working order. Or parts could be replaced. Biggest thing about using these in the surf — is to completely clean them, apply new marine grease and good synthetic oil — then address the reel when you return home by breaking it open — making sure no salt water got inside — add grease if necessary — remove the spool when not in use — and check the drag stack for any salt or water intrusion.
Best,
Fred
Fred, l just now noticed for the first time there is a second rubber buffer on the schematic you posted. Where does it go? l know part no. 100248 fits on the angle lever.
:) These pictures may help
Thank Joe. the second pic answered my question.
Fred....
Thank you very much for sharing your expertise . You obviously are very knowledgeable on the D.A.M. Quick's. I am
not a flipper , but a buy and hold type guy. Thankful to get such a quality reel that I can still put to use. i will print off
your schematic and insights and will keep with the reel. I had not learned about removing the spool when not in use.
Thank you. BTW.... my error, the spool is plastic. Looking forward to using this reel.
Thanks again.
Charles
Yes, Festus, it just goes on the underside of the trip lever —
It interacts with the triangle trip nub moulded into the reel frame — and also with the copper ramp — to trip the bail.
A DQ reel's bail should properly be put into the "casting" position starting at 12 o'clock and going downwards to 6 o'clock.
This gives the rotor rotation about 270 degrees of momentum before tripping closed.
Another small detail when casting these — for a more accurate and longer cast — it helps to make sure the spool is in the full outward position. Less line resistance as sometimes an inward position will cause a slight friction on the inside of the rotor — as the line flies off the spool when casting.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: cdaline on February 25, 2019, 07:13:02 PM
Hello Gentlemen.... 1st post . longtime lurker. I wanted to share a recently acquired D.A.M. Quick 550, and, ask a few questions.
I tracked this on ebay ...offered $15 + 10 ship. Upon arrival found the reel to be in pretty good nick... functional. I disassembled,
cleaned, lubricated. These are tank like German engineering. Appears they left the plastic bits out. Hefty to lift. The bail works but
on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure. My questions: What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag
indicate ? The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actua The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to dolly moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do ? T
A little history... when stationed in Germany in the 70's these were some of the best line of reels available..always wanted to own
one, so I thought worth the purchase price.
Will not win any beauty contest , total lack of modern era bling... but, great design. 8) Any comments appreciated.
Charles
https://imgur.com/a/81azzbM
k
The bail works but
on occasion has the need for two complete reel cranks for closure . Check that you have the bail spring clocked correctly ,it should close with a nice snap.
The three position maroon bar under the crank... click - bi-directional crank - anti-reverse modes ... when in "click" position
the maroon bar actually moves up and down in it's slot... is this what it is supposed to do. Yes...
This reel has a metal spool and Bakelite
Plastic handle knob... ? You are kinder lucky for the metal spool Stock was plastic I see you found it to be plastic !
alantani.com/index.php?topic=22803.0
What do the sun dial numbers on the spool drag
indicate ? From the owners manually
Quote from: foakes on February 25, 2019, 09:41:45 PM
Yes, Festus, it just goes on the underside of the trip lever —
It interacts with the triangle trip nub moulded into the reel frame — and also with the copper ramp — to trip the bail.
Best,
Fred
l have tubing l can cut to take care of this, but do any more of the non-N Finessa series need this buffer?
Quote from: festus on February 25, 2019, 10:18:23 PM
Quote from: foakes on February 25, 2019, 09:41:45 PM
Yes, Festus, it just goes on the underside of the trip lever —
It interacts with the triangle trip nub moulded into the reel frame — and also with the copper ramp — to trip the bail.
Best,
Fred
l have tubing l can cut to take care of this, but do any more of the non-N Finessa series need this buffer?
No, and you can actually get by without the tubing on these 550's — it just reduces the wear on parts.
If the tubing you install has too thick of a wall — it will not work properly. So you may be fine — or you might need to find something thinner.
Just experiment a little — the tubing is cheap and plentiful if you go to a hobby or Medical Supply store — sometimes even a hardware store that carries gas lines.
Best,
Fred
Welcome, Charles, to the AT site, from Minnesota USA.
As you can see, there is a decent following here for DAM Q reels, especially the model(s) discussed and their related, smaller brethren. I myself enjoy all the details revealed about the various reels; never know when it will come in handy.
Frank
Thank you Old Man Joe for sharing the original manual info. Great read ! ...and answers my question.
Thank you Frank for the welcome... these are classic spinners that I feel honored to own one . My little brother
just picked up 2 330's that he says are "smooth like butter". They appear mirror images (but smaller profile) of
my 550. I will turn him on to this Forum. Lots of good information gained here.
Charles