here's a link to the schematic....
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf)
and here are the reels.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0095.JPG)
right off the bat, there were a few "problems" noted.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0096.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0098.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0099.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0100.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0101.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0114.JPG)
first remove the handle and the star, including the handle nut cap screw (key #32), the handle nut cap (key #110A), the handle nut (key #23), the handle assembly (key #24), the star drag (key #10), the two disc clutch springs, aka. bellevilles (key #18). then back out the two sideplate screws (key #38). the side plate and the spool can now be removed as separate units.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0103.JPG)
take this time now to remove, grease and reinstall the rod clamp screws (key #34).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0104.JPG)
lube the left spool bearing and the levelwind assembly. re-install the spool and set it aside.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0105.JPG)
remove the right side plate screws (key #50A).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0106.JPG)
remove the right side plate and set aside the bearing clutch shaft (key #98S) and the roller bearing (key #98B).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0107.JPG)
remove the drag metal and fiber washers and the main gear in order.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0111.JPG)
this is what you should have left. if the inner side plate is dissassembled further than this, refer to this photo for reassembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0109.JPG)
apply a generous coat of shimano or cal's drag grease to the drag washers and reassemble the drag stack.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0113.JPG)
replace the anti-reverse roller bearing assembly with new parts if you find extensive damage such as this.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0108.JPG)
re-install the side plate, the star and the handle, and you're done. if you want to take a quick look at your reel, you need only back out the two "take-apart screws" in the right side plate (key #38) and the side plate comes off cleanly for a quick inspection. grab your camera and let us know what you find!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0115.JPG)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
I recently purchases a 975CS baitcaster (the same as the one you've pulled apart here but topless and sans the levelwind bits) and wonder what you usually use to lube/protect the anti-reverse/roller bearing with? I gave everything inside the reel (except the anti-reverse) a light coating of Cals but am left guessing about the one way roller bearing. ???
Regards
Dave
CorrosionX have been found to be one of the best lubricants for the anti-reverse bearings. Please note that its the regular CorrosionX and not the HD (heavy duty) CorrosionX. The HD is much thicker.
yup! you can just dunk it in corrosion x!
Awesome, thanks! ;D
Hey gang, I've got a 955 and a 965, both star drag, both in excellent condition except for the clicker mechanisms.
The 955 is jammed in the OFF position and will not engage. No amount of lube & wiggling seems to free it up. It looks spotless inside ( at least what I can see ) One spring is compressed, and one is extended.
The 965 is similar but the button WILL move to both positions ( with some pressure) but no audible clicker.. the pawl won't hit the gear...
Removal & service of the mechanism seems quite daunting at best... where does PENN find people with fingers small enough to remove &/or replace that crazy thing? Seems nearly impossible to get the thing back together if i start removing the click assembly from the underside of the frames spool lip..
Anyone have experience with that or words of wisdom on the subject ....... Other than "why do you need the clicker anyway?"
Thanks fellas....
click springs corrode and break all the time. the they jam up all the time. you'll have to tear it completely apart. and lube or grease everything. :-\
Quote from: erikpowell on January 23, 2012, 02:06:50 AM
Hey gang, I've got a 955 and a 965, both star drag, both in excellent condition except for the clicker mechanisms.
The 955 is jammed in the OFF position and will not engage. No amount of lube & wiggling seems to free it up. It looks spotless inside ( at least what I can see ) One spring is compressed, and one is extended.
The 965 is similar but the button WILL move to both positions ( with some pressure) but no audible clicker.. the pawl won't hit the gear...
Removal & service of the mechanism seems quite daunting at best... where does PENN find people with fingers small enough to remove &/or replace that crazy thing? Seems nearly impossible to get the thing back together if i start removing the click assembly from the underside of the frames spool lip..
Anyone have experience with that or words of wisdom on the subject ....... Other than "why do you need the clicker anyway?"
Thanks fellas....
Just took apart a 975 and have to say I want one now that I've seen the inside, nice little reel, a little more $ than a used 4/0 though. Does anyone think they compare to a hot rod 4/0?
Alan I had a question I recently serviced my 965 International for a cleaning/lubing and I wanted to know what is the best way to put on Penn Part 69B onto Penn Part 43 because the little washer Penn Part 42R being on top made me break 2 or 3 retaining clips before I got so frustrated that I took the washer (Part 42R) completely off and was able to get enough room for the retaining clip onto the white shield Penn Part 43. Will this be ok for my levelwind or is this little washer a must for my reel? And if so what is the best way to place this retaining clip into place. I tried pliers and screwdrivers and all it ended up was with alot of anger and frustration.
thank you Alan. Love your knowledge. Sorry if things are offtopic and out of place I am still getting use to this new site.
yeah, been there. if you have an acceptably low amount of "play" in the worm, then leave it be. maybe the white nylon "swelled" a little. who knows. as long as it works, leave it be.
I just took a 965 apart for a friend last night. The usual issue - the freespool buttom would not engage once clicked into "free spool".
It seems that there is no anti-reverse back up (no dog, no pawl) on these reels. Is it soley the anti-reverse bearing that prevents this? It seems that is rather common failure in most conventionals. Or are these the only anti-reverse roller bearing out there that does not fail?
the anti-reverse bearing is very large compared to the relative size of the reel. that is probably the reason that catastrophic failures are less common than other reels.
Thanks for the tutorial Alan! Does the bearing on the right side of the spool come off? My free spool had slowed badly.....
yes, it does. it is held in by a cross pin that is very easy to damage. you will need to make a tool. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0
Thanks Alan!!! I'm gonna make me a tool tomorrow! I'm not sure if the pin is tapered.... does it matter which way the pin is pushed out? If my spool bearings needs to be replaced, what is the best replacement spool bearings for the best freespool and where can I buy them? Thanks Alan for your help!
Rob
Aloha Rob,
You could also use spool pin pliers from Boca or http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7289.0. If you are doing several reels a year, this is a good investment. It doesn't mushroom the pin head as much as my home-made pliers as in Alan's photo.
For bearings, and for your applicantion in the Hawaii waters, I would only recommend SS. Ceramics are nice, but if the races are not protected, they will rust. So, for Hawaiian invironments, you would need to lube the ceramic bearings, which slows them down and defeats the purpose of haveing ceramic bearings. Go with SS bearings and you will be fine.
BTW, I have 2 pliers left if you are interested.
Bryan
Thanks Bryan! I think I really should buy one of those pliers! My 975 takes a beating!!! It's sitting about a foot above water level and I use it to damashi for bait, I probably drop for bait at least a 100 times each trip out and most drops are deeper than 30 fathoms. Having the right tool for the job will defiantly help out! Where can I buy replacement stainless steel bearings? And does anyone know what sizes are the spool bearings? I don't have one of those measuring devices yet....
All caught up with the refurbs and servicing my customer's trolling reels, so I decided to service my personal 975 star w/level wind. Compared to the reels I've been working on..this little gem was a breeze! Only took 45mins to completely disassemble (except for clicker assembly), thoroughly clean all parts, bearings re-lube (penn grease on all internals, corrosion X on bearings, Cal's on drag discs), and reassemble. The reel is definately cranks smoother, has a stronger/smoother drag, and better free spool. The extra grease made the reel require just slightly more effort to crank though. I was surprised at how good the condition of the reel was overall despite 10+ years of age and fairly heavy use. The anti reverse bearing definitely benefitted from a dunk in corrosion X and the factory grease had completly dried up. The only other visable signs of light corrosion were in the Bellevilles, and a little tarnish on some bronze parts. Not bad considering it has been my go to Damishi Akule&Opelu rig here in Hawaii. Never taking a dip in the saltwater and regular freshwater rinsing after use probably helped too. Nice little reel.
I just bought a 975 today, and it does have some corrosion issues, not bad enough where it would affect mechanical integrity and I would need to change out parts; got lucky enough and only internal cosmetic issues due to the corrosion are the problem.
Soaking everything in Corrosion X as we speak, still a nice reel aside from the definite pro-corrosion tendencies. Anti-Reverse bearing looked good, the handle nut was the worst when it came to corrosion, let that soak for 10minutes and came off with a gentle wiggles.
For those considering buying, they are great reels for their intended purpose, but corrosion can be an issue depending on how and how often you service your reels. This is a reel I would recommend servicing after every trip. IMO
Thank you for the tutorial, I will need it.
on your 12th pic it shows jacks springs with spring arm facing up from yoke springs to hole in eccentric ...ive recently took apart a few 965 and 975 ..never been serviced...and the jack springs are installed just the opposisite of what pic shows...what is correct installation...mine have had all coils towards push button ...with arm coming down attaching to eccentric..a reply back to this would be appreciated to make sure installed correctly...where they put in wrong on your pic of reel..thanks joe
this is correct. it would not work any other way. :-\
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/100_0107.JPG)
two of the reels had springs put in as schematic shows...not as your pic..guess I will leave them the way I found them seem to work fine,,parts 20--965 20b-965...either way
Hi !
Opened up thisone. When you press freespoolbutton and then crank, it wont go out of freespool. Had a look at the liftarm, and saw that the little "pin" was a bit beaten.
Or there should be spacer or something, so that the the little pin could engage the driveshaft ? I guess the pin on the liftarm is to much worn down.
I don't think this reel have been opened since it was new and noticed that the springs are installed different, than from Alans picture. Its mentioned earlier. Any idea why the springs are installed in different ways ?
If I need Penn parts, any good webshop that ships to Sweden ?
The springs are in the correct way in both pictures. Just reassemble like the picture you have. It is correct..
Thanks handi2 !
What do you think about the liftarm ? I think the little "pin" is to worn, but I'm just guessing.
/Andreas
I too would be guessing. After a thorough cleaning and luring it may work much better. Also try the jack springs the way Alan shows them and see if that helps.
Anybody know the size of the right side spool bearing in this reel?
I have a Penn Int'l 965. Do you have any tutorials on removing the idler gear part number 64M-965? The tutorial shows how to remove and disassemble the right sideplate but not the left sideplate. Thank you for any help you can provide on this.
No photos for this one yet.
Once you have the handle side plate off, remove the spool and you can access the non-handle side to unscrew it and work on the idler gear.
I figured it out. There are 3 screws that hold the left sideplate, 2 long screws that also hold the click housing and click button assembly and 1 short screw that also holds the idler gear. Once you remove those 3 screws everything comes apart nicely. Thanks again for your help Maureen, you are a pleasure to do business with for sure.
Good evening.
What is the proper orientation of the belleville washers on this reel?
Also is it a common issue for the "cup" on the back of the star to come apart from the star? I was given a 975 that was in decent but non working conditon and I've never had one of these before. I ordered a new star.
the bellevilles are "()".
here's the schematic. http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf (http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf)
for the star, the pieces are pressed together and can loosen. sometimes you can peen them back together, but they can loosen up and fall apart easily again.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackles old online store over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Looks like you can order a new star if needed...
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/10-975.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/10-975.aspx)
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackles old online store over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Quote from: alantani on August 22, 2017, 06:39:56 PM
the bellevilles are "()".
here's the schematic. http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf (http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf)
for the star, the pieces are pressed together and can loosen. sometimes you can peen them back together, but they can loosen up and fall apart easily again.
Thanks. I looked at the schematic and couldn't tell that there was any orientation for the washers. I figured it was () but wasn't sure. There was also an "extra" thin wavy washer in there. It was between the star and the handle?
I'm glad I just ordered a new one......I also ordered a Torque handle for it ;D
Quote from: spize on August 23, 2017, 01:48:22 AM
Quote from: alantani on August 22, 2017, 06:39:56 PM
the bellevilles are "()".
here's the schematic. http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf (http://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/975.pdf)
for the star, the pieces are pressed together and can loosen. sometimes you can peen them back together, but they can loosen up and fall apart easily again.
Thanks. I looked at the schematic and couldn't tell that there was any orientation for the washers. I figured it was () but wasn't sure. There was also an "extra" thin wavy washer in there. It was between the star and the handle?
I'm glad I just ordered a new one......I also ordered a Torque handle for it ;D
Sometimes folks add a wavy washer between handle and star even though the reel doesn't call for it...because they saw it on other models and assumed it was missing.