Here in the PNW, halibut season is almost over and a lot of people will be putting their Tanacom reels away until next season. During my last and final trip out, I snagged up and had the rod holder break, sending my rod and reel overboard. Luckily, I still had the power cord plugged in and was able to retrieve both the rod and reel. Not wanting to put a submerged reel up for the season due to corrosion risk, I tore it apart, cleaned and relubed everything, changed out the drags for Carbontex and put it to bed. Here is the process:
Here is the venerable Tanacom 750 ready for teardown. Be sure you have a large, clean area to work with as there is a lot of parts.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t1.jpg)
Here is the schematic for reference:
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/tanacom750.jpg)
With a flat blade screwdriver, push the tabs of the handle cap in to gain access to the nut.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t2.jpg)
Be sure not just to pry the cap off as they have little tabs on them that are easily broken.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t3.jpg)
Using a 10mm wrench, remove the nut to the handle.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t4.jpg)
Remove the collar and star drag.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t5.jpg)
Remove the cap and note the orientation.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t6.jpg)
Remove the four spring washers.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t7.jpg)
To remove the sideplate, you'll need to remove the four screws. Note which are long screws and which are short.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t8.jpg)
When you pull the sideplate off, be sure not to loose the line stopper indicated here by the arrow.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t9.jpg)
Remove the sideplate but take care as there are wires attached to the motor lever.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t10.jpg)
Remove the plastic bearing.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t11.jpg)
Remove rubber grommet
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t12.jpg)
And then the collar
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t13.jpg)
To remove the drags and drive gear, take care to remove the oring.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t14.jpg)
Here are the drags and washers. Upon reassembly I will replace the drags with Carbontex drags.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t15.jpg)
Don't forget the washer between the drive gear and ratchet.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t16.jpg)
In order to remove the other sideplate, we must first remove the wires from under the tab indicated by the arrow. This will require loosening the three screws to the motor.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t17.jpg)
Remove the motor cover and finger guard.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t19.jpg)
Remove the screw indicated by the arrow. After inspecting the worm shaft, I will be removing that as well.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t20.jpg)
Remove the retaining washer with a small pick.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t21.jpg)
Be sure not to loose the retainer, washer, and collar.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t22.jpg)
Partially remove the other sideplate and pull the wiring thru to give yourself room to work.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t23.jpg)
Here's a closer look with the sideplates disassembled from the frame.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t24.jpg)
I'm also partially disassembling the left sideplate as it's pretty dirty.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t26.jpg)
Remove the wormshaft nut.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t28.jpg)
And the washer and pin to remove the wormshaft and pipe.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t29.jpg)
As you can see, there is a lot of parts to clean. Clean all your parts and get ready for reassembly.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/t31.jpg)
So once you have everything cleaned, it's time to reassemble.
Here is the gear plate cleaned and greased that goes into the left side plate.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/1.jpg)
I use marine Yamalube for reel grease duty.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/2.jpg)
I also took all the shields off the bearings and cleaned them.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/3.jpg)
Then lubricated them with a few drops of Reel X.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/4.jpg)
For cleaning duties, I use Reel Kleen.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/5.jpg)
It cuts thru the old grease very well.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/6.jpg)
Be sure to grease up the worm drive.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/8.jpg)
Here is the left side plate cleaned and greased, ready for reassembly.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/7.jpg)
Be sure to use this screw when reattaching the left side plate. It is different from the other long screws as it has a flat head and a ridge down by the threads.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/9.jpg)
Reassemble the finger guard. Ensure the tab (indicated by the arrow) goes under the left side plate cover.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/10.jpg)
Be sure to grease the side plate.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/11.jpg)
Be sure to align the dog as shown and catch the wire spring as indicated by the arrows.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/14.jpg)
Reassemble to this point before putting on the right side plate. Be sure that A & B are aligned.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/15.jpg)
Reassemble the handle assembly and wipe down. Have a beer.
(http://www.flytier.com/tanacom/16.jpg)
I hope this SBS has helped you in maintaining your Daiwa Tanacom. If you need help servicing these reels, please contact me at https://www.rougarourods.com or sales@rougarourods.com
Regards,
Eric
Nice detailed work Eric, I'm not sure you've introduced yourself, but welcome to our site.
You might be the first member that gets a sticky on his first posting :)
Hope to see more of your work...enjoy your stay!
Sal
Thanks for posting. Its the same procedure for the Tanacom 1000 and Bull 1000.
Also the main shaft may look stainless steel but its chromed brass.
Hi Eric, great work, nice detailing step By step, However ,you did not mention anything about the electric motor, did you replace any brushes in it, did the armature get some attention, not meaning to nock you, I was great full that you started this post, I also placed, a elbow on my leed right next to the reel, then fixed the leed to the rod, as a permanent structure, so the leed was not bending in the one area, all the time, I will try to get some photos, the original leed, were it sticks out it tends to bend over the rail next to the rod holder & so on, cheers & thanks Don.
Hi Eric, I have spent almost one hour trying to manage photobucket, so keep fingers crossed, it works, this photo of our Tanacom 1000, should show how I have, soldered a right angle on to the cord, then fixed the cord to the bottom of the rod, it looks a bit crude, but the cord is much flexible, and does not break, like the original shape cords do, the cord actually broke on me, and Diawa wanted it back before they would send me another one, so Ikept it, and forwent the warranty so I could reconstruct it. 2 years on & it is still going good, I have another picture of it, if this one comes through okay I will send the other one, I have painted some liquid insulation on it for more protection, cheers Don
(http://rs58.pbsrc.com/albums/g263/popyDonny20/20170626_123418%20002_zps5abq9y4p.jpg?w=280&h=210&fit=crop)
This is another view of the reel, yes the cord stay connected to the reel, but is not much inconvenience, I also run the reel on small motor quad bike batteries, I get about 12 hours of constant, work out of the reel, that is equal to about 4 days fishing, before I recharge, it, cheers Don.
(http://rs58.pbsrc.com/albums/g263/popyDonny20/20170626_123418%20002_zps5abq9y4p.jpg?w=280&h=210&fit=crop)
I did not service the motor. I did inspect it and felt that it was ok. While the reel was submerged, there was no evidence of water intrusion into the reel.
Regards,
Eric
Thanks Eric for the write up and thanks Don for your additional comments. Interesting that it is only a single dog...
Quote from: coastal_dan on June 28, 2017, 05:02:21 PM
Thanks Eric for the write up and thanks Don for your additional comments. Interesting that it is only a single dog...
I agree it was a great write up.
I have a 1000 and although they are pretty tough little electric reels, there is a lot of plastic and having a single dog might act as a fail safe. I'd rather have the dog fail than the rest of the reel blowing up.
Yes Eric it is a great right up well done, I am sorry the photos I posted turned out the same, not supposed to be, photo bucket game me all sorts of trouble, I don't think I will go back their, yes best the dog gives before the reel, the 1000 was for the wife, Patrica, she does well with it, often out fishes me, cheers Don.
Don't worry about that single dog. I have 4 Tanacom Bull 1000's, 2 Tanacom 1000,s and a Tanacom 750.
The 750 serves as a dredge, teaser, reel and sometimes a kite reel.
We have had the reels locked down on Snowy Grouper and Golden Tilefish.
Never a problem with the old fashioned dog.
Roger that, thanks for the added info. I may need to get one of these down the road. It sure would help on the way up from the depths...there are a mess of them on the head boats up here out of NJ...depending on the trip it's every other or every third fisherman with one. Funny that the 'sound' of fishing has changed...before it was diesel vibrations and guys grunting...now its diesel sounds and 'wwwwwrrrrrrrrrrrrrr' as the guys hit there Tanacom levers :D
If the main shaft ever breaks you will halve to break it down even further pulling the motor and wiring out.
It is needed to get to the back of the main shaft to remove the E clip. Its just like any other reel but takes a lot of work to get to.
Keith
Thanks for the pictures of your Bull teardown, you are right, theres a lot of parts. I,m glad you got it back together, and took the time to share some info. I,m goinna zip tie my cords now to give the connector some strain relief...
On the lighter side last year my brother and a friend were fishing a small outboard on a skiff and the motor clamp was loose and the motor (6hp) fell off the back into the water, the gas hose kept it from dissappearing, so they lifted it back up and salvaged a good bitchfest from their wives! :o Some guys are lucky! ???
Hi and thanks for the great post.
I have a Tanacom Bull 1000 and the anti reverse has stopped working. Would you know if your tutorial is close enough to use for my Tanacom Bull
Regards
Eric
I used this tutorial to assist me in stripping down my 2 Tanacom 1000 and after ordering bearings & O rings it was a a couple of months before I got back to reassemble. I have forgotten where one washer goes. They were next to the Drag collar A but I cant find this washer listed in the schematics or any on line tutorial. I have attached photos where I believe it may go but would appreciate some help as to whether I am right or not. The washer is 11.9mm o.d. x 8.13mm i.d. x .96mm thick and it fits over the drive shaft nicely and into the recess of the Drag collar
Thanks
Bloggsy
I have the same extra part and I believe it goes between 89 and 105. Probably added later since 105 could dig into the plastic when folks crank down the drag.
I never noticed it fit that collar but I happen to have one dissembles so took a look at it. It does fit but sticks out a little which would impact the drag pressure so I'm fairly certain it doesn't go there.
First time I tore mine a part I was stumped on the extra part too. I haven't had issue with the reel having it between 89 and 105 but maybe I've done it wrong all these years.
Thank you so much for the reply yes the only concern that I had with my suggested placement was that it stuck out a bit and didn't allow for full face contact on the drag washer, here is a reply I received from another member Rothmar2:
Yes I have done a few of these, but it was quite some time ago. I think from the pictures you have up, that looks about right. I think the shims you have shown go under the drag sleeve/collar, to stop the drag star from bottoming out and rubbing against the plastic side cover. I could get a reel back to check, but it might take me a few days, as I don't own one. Does the reel function OK with the shim located as you have shown, when fully assembled?
So now I don't know which way to go, it's very annoying when parts aren't shown on the schematics because you always think well I have the diagram in case things go wrong but not so in this case. I can only hope to hear back from Rothmar2 or from someone who has done a few as I hate to reassemble things wrong.
I did contact Daiwa here in Australia but they declined to answer (they probably think that you should be sending it to them for repair)
I still have no definitive answer on this washer issue surely someone has had these apart? All I can assume is that it was a later addition/upgrade. Daiwa have not replied to any of my emails I have attached some more photos of possible location.
Sorry, hadn't seen this until now.
The washer goes in location 2.
Regards,
Eric
I am having a problem as I can't see the pictures of the reel am I doing something wrong or did they disappear? I now have one on my bench and this would be awesome not to do it blind!
Thanks
Wally
Wally, take digital photos as you go, step by step, them follow them as you place it back together, you should by good, cheers Don.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/RougarouRods/notes/?ref=page_internal (https://www.facebook.com/pg/RougarouRods/notes/?ref=page_internal)
Hi Eric & all members, it is now 3 years since I re modeled, my power cord, still operating great, not one bit of trouble, cheers Don.
Hi Eric & all members, I have just finnished servicing Pats Tanacom 1000 reel, as Kieth said the 750, 1000 & the 1000 Tanacom bull are all the same, so I though I would report on the service here.
I was very disapointed with the drag washers, made of card board or baker light, there were 6 washers aprox 70 mm thick, I made up 5 CF washer for it, the first washer I used 1 mm thick, as the first washer tends to ware more than the others, for the rest I used 75mm CF, so that almost made up the same measurements of the original stack, greased with Cal`s grease.
The drag A/r ratchet & the dog were almost round were they meshed, not through ware but the way they were manufactured, so I reshaped them, the Dog more pointier, & the ratchet to suit, they mesh nice now.
there was a bearing on each end of the spool, the large bearing face plate side measured-inside 16mm or 0.630 in, outside-22 mm or 0.866 in, thickness-4 mm or 5/32 in, small bearing tail plate end-inside- 4mm or 5/32, outside- 11mm or 0.433 in, thickness 4mm or 5/32, there is anouther bearing behind one of the cogs tail plate side, that had a step up frame combined with it, I could not get a good measurement on that one, & the writing could not be read,
Sorry had a few visitors turn up when writing the report, hence the abrupt finish. okay back to the Tanacom 1000 service, I took the level line worm out, cleaned it all. but when I placed it back together, I had the pall cup the gard & the worm facing towards the rod tip. so when it came time to put the reel back together, the plastic components would not line up, theres not many pictures that show that part of the reel & the schematic dont help. it all has to be pointing at the rod but end of the reel, operator end, another hurdle I had, as when it came time to screw the centre of the reel to the tail plate, the two wires that you drag back through to the face plate side, the red wire developed a curl in it on the tail plate side, making it hard to marrie together, had to twist the wire back the other angle.
when moving the face plate into position, the drag dog would drop out, I dont like using grease near the dogs, as it reduces free pivoting of the dog, but to keep it in position I had to, after screwing the reel together & mounting it onto the rod, I tested it before, before cable tying the electric cord back as I have it, drag operates nice & smooth now, so I hope this helps some one.
by the way the two small bearings were working very smooth, no sir clip to get the shields of, so I soaked them in TSI 321, I had the auto electrician run some tests on the motor, he said it was fine, the 75 mm cf sheet I had, it belonged to Wallace browne, I brought it from his wife, after he past on, with her Daughter supervising the transaction. cheers Don.
A couple of photos from Don's service of Pat's reel - the first shows the original drag washers he mentioned. I don't have any experience with these reels and can't contribute to the discussion other than carbon fiber washers is a good choice to replace the original brittle material.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/32/7995_09_05_20_4_13_40_32690388.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/32/7995_09_05_20_4_13_50_32691610.jpeg)
Mike
Thanks Mike, for the two photos you placed on here, I am getting plenty of drag pressure with the combination of CF washers I used, compared with the original, & such a smooth start up.
In the first pic, you can see a pare of tweezers & the tool with the blue handle, that is a small hook, gee them two tools come in handy. thanks again Mike, cheers Don.
I do not see any pictures of Redzwulf's post. Just the step by step instructions that usually accompany each pic.
your correct thems pics never came up for me, only the 2 that Mike placed there for me, By the way Pats reel is still operating good, cheers Don.
Am I the only one that can't see the images??
nah, they're gone. :-\