Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Spinning Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => General Spinning Reel Questions => Topic started by: happyhooker on July 25, 2017, 02:48:44 AM

Title: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: happyhooker on July 25, 2017, 02:48:44 AM
Shakespeare 2200II tutorial 

Shakespeare is certainly a well known name in fishing equipment.  As with many originally based US manufacturers, many of their reels from 50 years ago or so were made in the US, and it was only afterwards that production switched to Asian sources.  The "Royal Maroon" series of reels from the 1960s and '70s were US made and contained a full size line from the small 2052 through the 2062 and the larger 2081 and 2091 reels.  They were not necessarily identical in their internals or appearance, except for the distinctive dark red color.  I have not examined very many of these old timers, and currently, do not own any of them, but anecdotal information indicates they were pretty acceptable reels, with six-disc drags that were high tech for their time.

Eventually, these reels were no longer made in the US, and at some point, production started in Japan of the subject of this tutorial, that being the 2200II.  While I don't know it for a fact, I suspect the 2200II was a successor to the 2052 light or ultralight reel from the earlier Royal Maroon series.  The 2200II went for a more subdued black finish with silver trim and had a 5.2:1 line retrieve ratio.  Has an aluminum alloy housing with one ball bearing supporting the pinion gear.  It appears to be of all metal construction. other than the A/R knob, drag knob and finger grip on the handle.  Acquired it for a few dollars as part of a bulk package of used reels.

Suggestion: read through this whole tutorial once before starting overhaul.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_21_196581106.jpeg)

I started my overhaul by removing the push-button spool, the handle (unscrew), then the 3 cover screws on the non-handle side of the body.  Note that the longer cover screw goes in the upper right position.  Inside, remove the small screw with a lockwasher underneath that pins the oscillation shaft to the oscillation slider.  You can remove the shaft at this point through the rotor, after cleaning off any hardened grease on the back end of the shaft.  Pull the slider off the stud on the face of the main gear.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_21_196581106.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_23_19659973.jpeg)

Note that there is a small bushing under the slider on the stud; on removing the bushing, see that the flanged end of the bushing faces down toward the gear face.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_24_196602021.jpeg)

On the rotor end, if you have not removed the oscillation shaft, do so now and then remove the nut that secures the rotor; note that this nut is 10 mm in size, left-hand thread (removes in clockwise direction) and that there is a small washer under the nut.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_28_19662177.jpeg)

Remove the 3 screws that secure the bearing retainer/bail trip and remove the retainer.  Remove the washer atop the ball bearing and remove the pinion gear out through the front of the rotor with the ball bearing.  Remove the ball bearing from the pinion gear by sliding it off.  Notes: the ball bearing is about 9/16 in diameter; the closed end of the bearing faces outward; and that the washer under the rotor nut is larger than the washer atop the bearing.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_29_19663971.jpeg)

Back inside the body, pull out the main gear.  Pry off the tiny C-clip that holds the A/R dog to a stud on the body.  Remove the screw on the outside of the body that holds the A/R lever (plastic) on (the lever is keyed).  Note the position of all A/R parts; the top of the coiled spring comes off the coil and goes to the dog; the bottom of the spring comes off below the coil and goes to the disk/lever shaft.  Remove the A/R dog, spring and disk/lever shaft.  The picture below shows the internals of the A/R as if the A/R lever on the outside of the body in the "down" position.  Some of the A/R parts are awfully small, and I suppose you could elect to clean them in place without disassembly, then re-lube.  The tiny C-clip is a bit of a hassle to pull and re-clip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_26_196611382.jpeg)

Back inside the rotor, next to the oscillation shaft hole, use a finger to hold the bail trip lever down (there is a coil spring underneath), remove the screw that holds the trip, then slowly remove the trip and the spring in the well below it.

If you choose to disassemble the bail and spring, note that the bail arm screw on the line guide/spring end of the bail has a groove on the underside of the head.  The bail spring consists of 4 full coils plus the 2 ends; spring diameter is approximately .35 inch, with a wire diameter of approximately .029.  Of the 2 spring arms, one sticks out from the coils and goes into a hole in the rotor; the other arm is on the top of the spring and is hooked and fits in the bail arm.

The line guide nut is 7 mm.  The wider end of the guide goes toward the nut.  Note the lockwasher under the nut and the small bushing under the guide.

Clean the clicker on the bottom of the spool.  To disassemble the drag, pry off the retainer and remove 6 disks of drag.  Clean all parts and well in spool.  On reassembly, the drag stack order will be as follows, starting at the bottom of the well: fiber disk; keyed washer; fiber disk; earred washer; fiber disk; keyed washer; lock ring/retainer.  When I disassembled mine, I noted the rubbery-fiber material of the non-metal disks and that all disks had been lightly oiled.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_29_19664794.jpeg)

Reverse directions to reassemble.  Use your favorite reel lube.  I like to use Quaker State NLGI #2 wheel bearing grease, cut with Penn Reel Lube (an oil).  I emphasize the oil on the closer fitting parts and the grease on the gears and ball bearing.  I do not believe it is necessary to pack the body full of grease, but I like to lightly coat the inside of the body and cover in the hopes it may catch any dust or small particles and hold them away from the sliding or moving parts.  Ditto the faces of the other parts inside the body and main gear, even thought those surfaces may not contact anything.  I very sparingly oil the bail spring, especially the ends.  I do not lube the line guide roller; it is too "out in the open" and will catch dust and dirt because of that, negating the lubricating properties of the oil and gumming up the roller anyway.

Because this reel had a good case of "boat rash", I repainted the handle, body and rotor before reassembly.  Keep paint off of parts that have threads or are friction surfaces.  The wording on the side of the reel was done by using a silver metallic Sharpie-type permanent marker on the raised surfaces.  I realize some folks do not care to repaint or touch up outside surfaces.  If I had a rare or valuable reel, I might not touch the outside either.  However, I am mainly a reel "user" and not a reel "displayer", so I am willing to clean up the outside if I can on reels that I will be using later.  Just "feels" better when using 'em.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_31_196652489.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/19/medium_17343_24_07_17_1_19_32_1966660.jpeg)

I hope this info proves interesting and helpful.  Anyone having another model reel that has similar construction, please let me know.  I took this reel out a couple of days ago on an old telescoping fiberglass pack rod, spooled up with 4lb. test mono.  Mountain biked out to a local pond and had some fun with crappies on small spinners and curly-tail jigs, and was satisfied it works OK and is a lot of fun to use.  Hoping to acquire one of the smaller "Royal Maroon" series of reels now for a "before and after" comparison, kinda a US vs. Japan test, if you will.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: Midway Tommy on July 25, 2017, 05:31:44 AM
Well explained, hooker.

The 2200 II (early '70s) was a couple of generations after the Royal Maroons (mid '60s). The second version 2052 (USA made, maroon color, too, and called Wonder Spin) has a one piece fold down handle and came out next in the late '60s/70ish. About the same time they came out (mostly over in Europe) with the Japanese made Noris Deluxe 2200. Then came the Japanese made (marina green color) 2200s & 2200 IIs, etc. There were a lot of changes going on about that time with Shakespeare, including manufacturing lesser quality reels and then giving exclusive sales rights to KMart for a few years through the largest part of the '70s. Most of those changes really had an affect on the public's perception of their quality from that point on.      
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: happyhooker on July 26, 2017, 01:38:21 AM
I wonder, when Shakespeare started manufacturing in Japan, did they have a "Shakespeare Japan" or were their reels made by somebody like Olympic, or...?  Some of their reels from the '80's were made in Korea, and maybe they were still chasing a price point at that juncture.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: Midway Tommy on July 26, 2017, 04:38:59 AM
Quote from: happyhooker on July 26, 2017, 01:38:21 AM
I wonder, when Shakespeare started manufacturing in Japan, did they have a "Shakespeare Japan" or were their reels made by somebody like Olympic, or...?  Some of their reels from the '80's were made in Korea, and maybe they were still chasing a price point at that juncture.

At least as early as 1963. They formed Nori-Shakespeare in Tokyo and Omori Manufacturing, Japan, made reels for USA and Noris Shakespeare at that time.

Noris-Shakespeare was a Shakespeare owned overseas subsidiary (Tokyo & England). They contracted to buy 1/6 of Omori stock in 1970 and also loaned Omori $200K interest free operating capital and put a representative on the Omori board.. 
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: festus on March 24, 2019, 04:12:11 PM
Here is a side-by-side pic comparing the 2200 II of hooker's to the older 2200.  Looks like some of the differences are the pop-off spool and a larger crosswind block on the 2200 II. 

BTW, my 2200 and its cousin, the Compac Atlas III are the smoothest of the old classic ultralights I own.  Even smoother than the Mitchell 308/408, Shakes 2052, Quick 265, Quick 110 or the 110N or the Heddons.  Sure, the 2200 models are built cheaper and most likely wouldn't take as much abuse, but they sure feel better.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: Gfish on March 24, 2019, 05:15:05 PM
Excellent tutorial hh. Didn't know bout this species of Shakies. How do they compare weight-wise to a similar sized Royal Maroon? Does the quality of the metal seem good?
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: mo65 on March 24, 2019, 05:56:14 PM
Quote from: festus on March 24, 2019, 04:12:11 PM
BTW, my 2200 and its cousin, the Compac Atlas III are the smoothest of the old classic ultralights I own.  Even smoother than the Mitchell 308/408, Shakes 2052, Quick 265, Quick 110 or the 110N or the Heddons.  Sure, the 2200 models are built cheaper and most likely wouldn't take as much abuse, but they sure feel better.

   I think this is a result of the softer metals used for gearing in these reels. I think it just doesn't transmit vibrations as bad, if that makes sense. One of my Heddons wins smoothest honors in my stable. Not surprisingly, it has a gearing set up very much like the 2200. And I like Chester's description of these reel's strength..."wouldn't take as much abuse" These reels are perfectly capable of doing what they were designed for, light freshwater fishing. I think this is why the Quicks, Penns, and similar "worm drive" reels bring a premium. They can not only survive about any fishing conditions...they can pull your truck out of the ditch! :D
   Great job on this tutorial Happyhooker. These reels fall into the Mitchell/Heddon/South Bend school of reels to me. Similar design and materials. These reels can catch panfish, bass, walleye, and small catfish forever if occasionally squirted with some lube. 8)
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: festus on March 24, 2019, 06:05:16 PM
Great perspective, Mo65.

Got a question for you.

Some time back you had a pic of a Pflueger spinner you had serviced and repainted.  It appeared to be a clone of this same series of Shakespeares.  I haven't been able to find that picture.  What was the Pflueger model number and how do you rate it as a reel?
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: Midway Tommy on March 24, 2019, 06:27:00 PM
These reels are well able, with periodic maintenance, to effectively do what they were designed to do. The problem arises , though, when you're out there fishing for pan, or medium size, fish and a 10# cat or northern decides she wants to test your equipment, not unlike my daughter who's favorite reel is her Johnson Scorpions.  ::) An 8# northern decided to make mush out of her drag and eliminated 25% of it's gear teeth.  ;) She did finally get it in, though. I've been trying to convert her to Cardinals for years. I just laughed & said "I told you so".  Good thing they were only about $10. I found her a couple of NOS replacements on the 'Bay. Oh, and I'm still trying to get her to "see the light", but she's a little bit like her daddy, kind of a bullhead.   ;D
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: mo65 on March 24, 2019, 06:40:29 PM
Quote from: festus on March 24, 2019, 06:05:16 PM
Some time back you had a pic of a Pflueger spinner you had serviced and repainted.  It appeared to be a clone of this same series of Shakespeares.  I haven't been able to find that picture.  What was the Pflueger model number and how do you rate it as a reel?

   I can't for the life of me remember where that post is. I think it was a thread where we were discussing dressing up bare raised lettering on reels...seems like it was Fred's thread. At any rate...here's a link to a vid fishing that reel. I still take it out on occasion, it's a decent little reel. 8)

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWUxdULVoIs
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: festus on March 24, 2019, 06:48:02 PM
Quote from: Gfish on March 24, 2019, 05:15:05 PM
Excellent tutorial hh. Didn't know bout this species of Shakies. How do they compare weight-wise to a similar sized Royal Maroon? Does the quality of the metal seem good?
Greg, here's a side to side pic of a 2200 and a 2052 Royal Maroon.  The spool diameter on the 2052 is probably 1/16" to 3/32" larger than the 2200.  The 2200 weighs 6.85 oz, the 2052 is 8.25 oz.  Mostly alloys or pot metal for the gears except the pinion gear appears to be brass.  The metal on the exterior is probably like most Japanese reels from the 1960s or 70s.  Mine has pretty good paint but I don't think it was used very much. The spool on the 2200 is metal while the 2052 spool is plastic.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: happyhooker on March 25, 2019, 02:23:36 AM
Quote from: Gfish on March 24, 2019, 05:15:05 PM
Excellent tutorial hh. Didn't know bout this species of Shakies. How do they compare weight-wise to a similar sized Royal Maroon? Does the quality of the metal seem good?

Shakespeare 2200II weighs 8.6 oz. with line; max. length is 4 3/4 in., spool diameter (front) is 1 5/8 in., foot size is 9/16 in. X 2 1/4 in.  Helical cut gears are bronze pinion and zinc alloy main.  Spool is aluminum.  All metal parts appear durable.

Frank
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: philaroman on March 25, 2019, 02:52:54 PM
Quote from: festus on March 24, 2019, 04:12:11 PM
Here is a side-by-side pic comparing the 2200 II of hooker's to the older 2200.  Looks like some of the differences are the pop-off spool and a larger crosswind block on the 2200 II.  

BTW, my 2200 and its cousin, the Compac Atlas III are the smoothest of the old classic ultralights I own.  Even smoother than the Mitchell 308/408, Shakes 2052, Quick 265, Quick 110 or the 110N or the Heddons.  Sure, the 2200 models are built cheaper and most likely wouldn't take as much abuse, but they sure feel better.

well whaddayaknow?  I just happen to have 3 mystery spools that are lookin' mighty close to 2200-II/740 (that's the quick-release, correct?)...  were there minor variations in spool design?

...also have another spool that looks identical to all the top-views I can find of 2200-II/740 & drag same as HH's photo, but it's much bigger than the other 3 & the Atlas -- were there bigger quick-release Japanese models?  (can't be 2400 -- that was skirted)

oh, did I mention my VG-EXC Atlas III: barely used; sluggish, but not rough -- feels like congealed original grease (never opened); 99%+ original paint (minute paint loss on corners of foot, is all I notice)

will trade it all for any working spinner w/ brass main (pref., worm) & skirted spool (pref., AL)


**************


Diamond Deluxe Micro seems to be Ohmori OEM same as 2200 & Atlas III

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Diamond+deluxe&_sacat=1492

wonder what the bigger Diamond Super Deluxe 777 equates to (guessing that's where my bigger spool goes)
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: festus on March 25, 2019, 10:46:54 PM
Quote from: philaroman on March 25, 2019, 02:52:54 PM


Diamond Deluxe Micro seems to be Ohmori OEM same as 2200 & Atlas III

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Diamond+deluxe&_sacat=1492

wonder what the bigger Diamond Super Deluxe 777 equates to (guessing that's where my bigger spool goes)
I found this box from the 777 online.  It appears to hold 150 yards of 12 lb mono, so it's probably one size bigger than the Shakespeare 2200/Compac Atlas 99 III.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: happyhooker on April 04, 2019, 02:59:00 AM
Festus, that Japanese website you mentioned to me in connection with the Diamond reels also talks about the Shakespeare 2200II and other Omori (Ohmori) reels.  If I'm not mistaken, the 2200II is the same basic model as the Pflueger 640.

Frank
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: Reelmeneer on April 29, 2019, 02:48:37 PM
Does someone know if it is possible to fix the 'quick release' mechanism of the spool? Mine does not stay fixed on the shaft...

Regards,

Ed
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: FlipFlopRepairShoppe on April 29, 2019, 06:31:26 PM
Awesome writeup!

I hate that so many of these cool old reels have pot metal gears.  It makes it dangerous to fish them where I live, on the Choctawahatchee bay.  You can be using a rig with 4 lb test trying to tease a nice Speck up off the sandy flats and BOOM a Bull Red decides that he's game and he's got the muscle to shear the gear teeth off of a pot metal reel, real quick.  And the Reds around here are game.  There are lots of baitfish for them to feed on so they get nice and strong.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: The Fishing Hobby on June 12, 2019, 04:00:22 AM
Quote from: festus on March 24, 2019, 04:12:11 PM
Here is a side-by-side pic comparing the 2200 II of hooker's to the older 2200.  Looks like some of the differences are the pop-off spool and a larger crosswind block on the 2200 II. 

BTW, my 2200 and its cousin, the Compac Atlas III are the smoothest of the old classic ultralights I own.  Even smoother than the Mitchell 308/408, Shakes 2052, Quick 265, Quick 110 or the 110N or the Heddons.  Sure, the 2200 models are built cheaper and most likely wouldn't take as much abuse, but they sure feel better.
I have a 2200 (not the II the original 2200) and a 2052 and the 2200 has less friction, but it definitely isn't as smooth as my 2052. By smooth, I simply mean there is no feedback from gear meshing through the handle on the 2052 at all. There is more friction when turning the handle which I would attribute to tighter tolerances in the bushings for the main drive gear and the shaft for the drive gear. Everything about the 2052 seems tighter but it is one of the smoothest reels I own (including several other worm drive reels). By smooth, are you referring to how easily it cranks (which I would call friction) or gear meshing feedback through the handle? I'm not downing the 2200 at all, I like mine and have no intentions of selling it. Just wondering if we are thinking along the same lines. My 2200 definitely has less friction when cranking but I can also feel the meshing of the gears through the handle. I can't feel any gear meshing whatsoever with the 2052.
I own several 2062's and they are extremely smooth like the 2052.
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: mo65 on June 12, 2019, 05:38:54 AM
Quote from: The Fishing Hobby on June 12, 2019, 04:00:22 AM
I have a 2200 and a 2052, and the 2200 has less friction, but it definitely isn't as smooth as my 2052. By smooth, I simply mean there is no feedback from gear meshing through the handle on the 2052 at all. There is more friction when turning the handle which I would attribute to tighter tolerances in the bushings for the main drive gear and the shaft for the drive gear. Everything about the 2052 seems tighter but it is one of the smoothest reels I own (including several other worm drive reels). By smooth, are you referring to how easily it cranks (which I would call friction) or gear meshing feedback through the handle? I'm not downing the 2200 at all, I like mine and have no intentions of selling it. Just wondering if we are thinking along the same lines.

   This is a subject that gets confused a lot. There is a definite difference in how easy the handle spins(attributed to how easy the bearing surface spins) and felt gear mesh. Both can be adjusted with the type of lube used. Lighter lube in the bearing makes the handle "free", but easing handle spin can suddenly make felt gear mesh appear. Heavier lube on the gears reduces felt mesh, but stiffens the handle. It's a balancing act...which is the fun part...making the reel feel perfect! 8)
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: festus on June 12, 2019, 03:26:18 PM
Quote from: The Fishing Hobby on June 12, 2019, 04:00:22 AM
Quote from: festus on March 24, 2019, 04:12:11 PM
Here is a side-by-side pic comparing the 2200 II of hooker's to the older 2200.  Looks like some of the differences are the pop-off spool and a larger crosswind block on the 2200 II. 

BTW, my 2200 and its cousin, the Compac Atlas III are the smoothest of the old classic ultralights I own.  Even smoother than the Mitchell 308/408, Shakes 2052, Quick 265, Quick 110 or the 110N or the Heddons.  Sure, the 2200 models are built cheaper and most likely wouldn't take as much abuse, but they sure feel better.
I have a 2200 (not the II the original 2200) and a 2052 and the 2200 has less friction, but it definitely isn't as smooth as my 2052. By smooth, I simply mean there is no feedback from gear meshing through the handle on the 2052 at all. There is more friction when turning the handle which I would attribute to tighter tolerances in the bushings for the main drive By smooth, are you referring to how easily it cranks (which I would call friction) or gear meshing feedback through the handle? I'm not downing the 2200 at all, I like mine and have no intentions of selling it. Just wondering if we are thinking along the same lines.gear and the shaft for the drive gear. Everything about the 2052 seems tighter but it is one of the smoothest reels I own (including several other worm drive reels).  My 2200 definitely has less friction when cranking but I can also feel the meshing of the gears through the handle. I can't feel any gear meshing whatsoever with the 2052.
I own several 2062's and they are extremely smooth like the 2052.
Kevin, I meant the 2200 cranks much easier than the 2052.  I have two of the Shakespeare 2200, one Diamond Micro7, and one Compac Atlas III, which are essentially the same reels.  Also have four fully functional 2052.  Just got through comparing all those by giving them all some good cranking.  One of the 2200 is a little noisier than the other reels, and a wee bit stiffer to crank. The Diamond Micro7, Compac Atlas III and the other Shakespeare 2200 turn effortlessly.  All the 2052 are very smooth, just don't crank quite as easily, but not enough to complain about or your Average Joe would even notice.  No doubt the 2052 are the best. 
Title: Re: Shakespeare 2200II spinning reel overhaul
Post by: The Fishing Hobby on June 13, 2019, 04:19:20 AM
Gotcha! I agree the handle turns more freely on the 2200 for sure. One of the easiest cranking reels of the vintage reels I own. The Mitchell 408's are easy cranking reels too (seem to turn more freely than the lower gear ratio 308's). The 2200 is a real sleeper reel, great little reel that can be had at a fair price.