Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Daiwa Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: alantani on February 08, 2009, 11:20:39 PM

Title: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on February 08, 2009, 11:20:39 PM
i'll admit it.  it's never as easy as you see in the posts.  sometimes i have to take a reel apart 3 or 4 times before i get it right.  the problem i always have is the height difference between the stock drags that i'm throwing away versus the carbon fiber drag washers that i'm installing.  the height of the drag stack always has to taken into account.  case in point is the daiwa saltiga/saltist 30T/40/50 line.  i used to install penn ht-100 drag washers, but the ht's were so thick that i could only used three drag washers inside the gear instead of the 5 drag washers that come stock.

enter carbontex (thank you hara-san!).  these woven carbon fiber drag washers are just as thin as the stock drag washers.  i mention these specifically, because they are that good....

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0471.JPG)

i cracked open this saltist 40 yesterday.  i opened it up, switched out the drag washers, and bolted it back together on the first try.  total time was 30 minutes.   it was a nice change of pace to nail one on the first try!   the schematcs are not available anywhere online. i had to call daiwa and they e-mailed one to me.  i hope you saved the one that came with the box.  here's the link for the saltiga schematics, which are fairly close.

http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20Saltiga%2030T,%2040,%2050.pdf

here's the reel.

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0462.JPG)

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0461.JPG)

first, let's zip out the left side plate screws (key #21), open up the left side plate, lube the bearings and grease the screw holes.  then back together it goes. 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0463.JPG)

off come the handle and star.

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0464.JPG)

carefully line up all the pieces in order, including the handle nut screw (key #58), the handle nut (key #57), the handle assembly (key #56), the spacing sleeve (key #55), the star drag (key #54), the bearing washer and click spring assembly (keys # 53 and 66), two drag spring washers (key #52) oriented in a "()" position and bearing washer (key #51). 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0466.JPG)

back out all of right side plate screws (key #49).  don't forget the one hiding under the lever! 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0467.JPG)

the right side plate lifts off cleanly and easily.  set it aside. 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0468.JPG)

remove and line up the main gear (key #34) and all the drag washers. 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0470.JPG)

leave the anti-reverse ratchet (key #31) and the anti-reverse pawl (key #32) in place.  if they come off when you remove the main gear, make sure the pawl "grabs" the ratchet and does not just sit underneath it. 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0469.JPG)

here is the carbontex washer on the left, and the stock saltist washer on the right.  funny, the stock washer has the look and feel of paper.  it also tears like paper. 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0472.JPG)

so i slopped on some shimano grease....

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0473.JPG)

and put the drag stack back together exactly the way it came apart.  i was amazed at how easily the stock drag washers tore.  just like paper. 

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0474.JPG)

the right side plate dropped into place easily and i greased the screw holes.

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0475.JPG)

in replacing the spring washers, note that the orientation is "()".

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0476.JPG)

a little grease around the star.

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0477.JPG)

now for the handle.  yes, about that handle.  here's a close up of the rivet that holds the spindle on.

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0478.JPG)

i ground it down with a bench grinder and punched out the spindle.  this separated the arm from the spindle and grip.

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0479.JPG)

i bolted on one of my own grips....

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0480.JPG)

bolted the handle assembly back onto the reel and i was done.  total elapsed time was 30 minutes.  in and out and done in 30 minutes!

(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/102_0481.JPG)

i took it down to the local shop and had it loaded with 350 yards of 65 pound power pro.  and like a dummy, i forgot to check on the maximum drag.  the carbontex upgrade for the last torium 16 that i did had maxed out at 24 pounds.  this one should easily exceed that.  i will get the max drag later this evening. 

so with a stack of saltiga/saltist "5+1" drags versus the trinidad/toriums "3+1" drag stack, the saltist should hit 25 pounds easily, maybe even more.  so does this make the saltiga/saltist reel better than the trinidad/torium line?  not really.  who would use more than 15#'s of drag anyway?   i'd say the carbontex washers pretty much level the playing field.  to me, that's what greased carbon fiber is all about. 



Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on March 23, 2009, 03:17:16 PM
QuoteAlan, I was wondering if you've encountered some Saltist 20h's or 30h's
coming in with stripped thread star drags?  I've had 2 30h's drag stars with
stripped threads so far.  I've only had the reel for 3 weeks and when I try to
tighten the star drag, the threading strips!  I've not overly tightened
them either.  I love reel but that problem boggles me.  Any input would be
appreciated!  Thanks, Eric, Honolulu, Hawaii

yeah, i've only seen one.  it does happen.  metric threads are always problematic.  the drive shaft and star have to be replaced.  you can't just replace on or the other.  you have to replace them both.  sorry.  alan
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on March 24, 2009, 09:54:02 PM
i'm not intentionally picking on daiwa. honest! sometimes things just land jelly side down.

the daiwa saltist is a perfectly good reel for the price. there are things that i do to any reel, even straight out of the box. the daiwa saltiga/saltist and the shimano trinidad/torium are no exception. i grease the screws, open/clean/lube the bearings, install greased carbontex drag washers, and bolt on a larger handle grip. i am no fan of these stock drags, nor am i a fan of the anti-reverse system used in these reels. when drag washers get sticky, the drag pressure surges and can cause the anti-reverse system to fail. the anti-reverse roller bearings simply slips at drag pressures of 15-20 pounds. once that happens, the "ambassaduer-style" anti-reverse dog has to catch. if it fails, the reel goes knucklebuster on you. you've all seen the photos of the shimano trinidad dog that failed. here's a daiwa saltist dog that also gave up the ghost.

this is a daiwa saltist that was shipped to me because the anti-reverse failed. note that the frame is not machined from a solid block of aircraft grade aluminum. the frame is precision cast. as part of the frame, there is a small stub that sticks out from the right-side base plate to support the anti-reverse dog. well, it's gone.

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_001.jpg)

actually, it's not gone. it sheared clean off leaving the stub and the dog to rattle around inside the reel.

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_002.jpg)

here's what the stub looks like, and here's the proper placement and orientation of the dog.

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_003.jpg)

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_004.jpg)

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_005.jpg)

to replace the stub, i drilled out a hole, tapped it and screwed in a 10-32 hex head cap screw from the back side. i thought this was pretty darned clever of me!

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_006.jpg)

and it almost worked! i ended up damaging the spot weld on the dog and the "spring" came off, so i had to add a sleeve under the dog, then place a round spring in place. under pressure the whole stupid thing came apart at 22#'s of drag.

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_007.jpg)

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_008.jpg)

finally, i replaced the daiwa anti-reverse roller bearing with a shimano trinidad bearing (they're all the same) and the daiwa anti-reverse dog with a shimano trinidad dog (they're close enough) and benched it out to 22#'s without failure. the spool bearings were cleaned out, lubed and re-installed open. the stock drags were replaced with grease carbontex. the stock handle was replaced with full-sized kolekar grip and we're back in business.

(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/saltiga_009.jpg)

so here's the take home message. sticky drag washers are the most common cause of structural damage to a reel. greased carbon fiber is the only system that offers 100% reliability. it will never fail. ask your local shop for carbontex and cal's grease, or go to smoothdrag.com. regarding the daiwa saltiga/saltist and shimano trinidad/torium in the 20/30 size, any drag setting over 15#'s carries a risk that the anti-reverse roller bearing will fail. if the the back up dog also fails, you're toast. upgrade your reel to carbontex and set the drag to 15#'s at most and you should not have a problem.

i think it was clint eastwood that said, "a man's gotta know his limits...".
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on April 03, 2009, 04:09:00 PM
Quote

I have a Saltist 30T that I took apart and put back together. I only took apart the drag part of the reel. After I put it back together, it is now grinding very bad when I reel and tighten the drag. As far as I can tell, everything is back in the same order, and I see nothing out of the ordinary. Does anybody know how to fix this? 


ouch!!!!!!! i think you missed getting the ambassaduer-style pawl back on to the ratchet gear properly. if you do that, it grinds like crazy when you crank the handle. sometimes you can bend everything back into place and it will work ok, but i would strongly recommend calling daiwa at 562-802-9589. ask for part #E48-9001. this is the pawl for the saltist 30T. please let us know how this works out. good luck! alan

Quote

It was the anti-reverse pawl that was bent. It was able to be bent back, and it's working fine now. I think I'll still order another one just in case though. Thanks for the help!

Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on June 04, 2009, 03:23:06 AM
QuoteAlan, Well, after your motivational speech today I could not wait to get home and take that reel apart.  I ordered the drags grease and lube that you suggested.  Even though I don't have all the parts I figured I would open it up and take a look.  You were right in that it does not seem that difficult of a reel.  I managed to diagnose what is going on and I will try to explain it to you the best I can.

It appears that the yoke has too much pressure on it from the two springs making it difficult for the yoke plate to move.  When I push or pull the clutch lever, instead of the reel going in and out of gear, the clutch lever pin (or screw) just turns and nothing else happens inside.  Maybe the correct lube and grease will help, but I don't know.  Maybe the clutch lever screw is defective.  Do you know how to get that thing out of the clutch lever?

ahhhhh, this makes more sense!  i think you have a bad clutch lever.  call daiwa and ask them for a new one.  i have several in the box because of just this type of problem.  should of thought of it immediately.  call daiwa at 562-802-9589 and ask them for a new lever.  for individual orders such as this, they will typically send them out for free.  after all, it is a "known" problem.  alan


Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on October 14, 2009, 06:42:22 AM
QuoteI purchased a Daiwa Saltist 30H approx. a year ago. I was fishing with it today,and when I went to rebait,I tightened down on the drag,and felt a faint "pop". The reel no longer has any drag pressure. When in gear, the spool will only turn with zero presure. Any pressure and the spool won't turn. The star is turning,but it won't tighten down. I'm now wondering if the star or main gear is stripped. Do you have any ideas??? Any info. is greatly appreciated.

yeah, seen this one before.  usually it's the drive shaft, but you often have to replace the spool shaft and the star at the same time.  it's the star that is so expensive.  you can try to replace just the drive shaft it you can clearly see excessive damage to it alone, but you always run the risk of some left over damage to the stat then damaging the new drive shaft.  just like the main and pinion gear, if you replace one, it really would be best to replace the other.  sorry about that......  alan
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on June 25, 2010, 09:30:03 PM
QuoteHi Alan, Enjoy your tutorials very much, I do most of my own servicing where I can.

Had a problem with my Saltist 40 by where the reel when under heavy drag the anti reverse pawl would disingage resulting in whacked knuckles. Just finished servicing the reel and could not find any problem with pawl, put the reel back together and tested drag under pressure still the pawl wont engage properly have you any clues as to why, perhaps there is too much grease surrrounding the pawl and this is having an undue affect???.

Much appreciate your thoughts. Cheers, Craig

the springs on the pawl have to be squeezed together more tightly. that still might not be a 100% fix. basically, it needs a spring loaded dog. that's the best way to go and there is no easy way to accomplish it. alan

Quote from: TzerThanks for reply, pulled reel apart again and on closer inspection the pin that the pawl sits on had some dried crap on the base of the pin that was very hard to see. It wasnt much but just enough for the pawl to wedge itself, once scraped off the pawl is now able to move more freely.

glad it's working!  alan
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: pomoxis on January 06, 2011, 05:08:49 AM
Alan

In the Saltist 40 Rebuild thread, you said that:

"finally, i replaced the daiwa anti-reverse roller bearing with a shimano trinidad bearing (they're all the same) and the daiwa anti-reverse dog with a shimano trinidad dog (they're close enough) ..."

Can you post the part numbers of the Shimano anti-reverse roller bearing and Trinidad dog? 

Also, in the picture, it looks like you added a dog spring.  Am I seeing this right?  If so, can you provide some details?

I've had problems with the Saltist anti-reverse dogs sticking and thus failing me - at pretty bad times, I might add.  And I think that a basic dog spring modification would help a lot.

Thanks!

- Glenn

Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on January 06, 2011, 07:39:57 AM
glen, it never held up.  daiwa has to come up with something on their own. 
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: oldtrackster on May 25, 2011, 11:04:30 PM
Mr. Tani,

Did you put your handle size 4/0 on the 40?
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on May 27, 2011, 06:20:28 AM
you could put a 2/0, a 4/0 or a 6/0 grip on any of these reels.  it depends on how hard you want to lean on them.   ;D
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: george.s on May 27, 2011, 06:29:10 AM
Quote from: oldtrackster on May 25, 2011, 11:04:30 PM
Mr. Tani,

Did you put your handle size 4/0 on the 40?

I put the spinner handle on mine and love it. have a look here.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=494.0
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: mtbrider on August 05, 2012, 05:52:09 PM
I noticed when taking my Saltist apart that the eared washer's "ears" were bent up. What is the correct orientation when putting them back in, ears up or down?
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on August 05, 2012, 06:08:58 PM
there is room either way. 
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: mhc on August 18, 2012, 06:56:37 AM
Hello Alan and others

I stripped a well used Saltist 30T, replaced all the bearings and greased the carbon washers that were in it - when I reassembled it the reel worked fine but the drag wouldn't back right off, with the star hard against the handle there was still a few lbs drag. Not knowing the origin of the carbon drags I assumed they were to thick and put in a set of smooth drag carbontex washers and still had the same problem. Next I swapped the full drag stack, metal and carbon, with a 30TH and still have the problem with the 30T. While I was swapping the drags I checked the thickness and orientation of all the washers and bearing and they all seemed identical in the two reels. I also checked the AR cog and pawl were in the correct position and there is only one carbon washer under the main gear. I'm thinking I'll swap the drive shaft and star tomorrow to see if that has any effect.

Has anyone experienced this before or am I special :D

Thanks for any advice, Michael
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: mhc on August 19, 2012, 02:26:22 AM
Quick update on the 'high drag stack' on saltist 30T.
I swapped the star from the 30TH without effect. Then I swapped the drive shaft, drive shaft retaining plate, AR cog or ratchet, AR bearing sleeve, shaft bearing, spring washers and star ratchet washer - everything except the main gear. Now the 30T has plenty of room to back off the drag and the 30TH has less room but the drag is free with the star hard against the handle. The bend in the spring washers is more pronounced in one set but I didn't think it would make that much difference. Looks like something wasn't seated properly before - not sure what, maybe the AR cog.   
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on August 19, 2012, 05:48:51 AM
sometimes the inner tube for the AR bearing doesn't seat properly.  :-\
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: mhc on August 19, 2012, 06:34:22 AM
Thanks Alan - the AR bearing sleeve could well have been the culprit, after the initial service I don't recall taking it out of the bearing until I swapped it over on the last strip. I'll pay more attention next time I service them. 
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on August 20, 2012, 07:56:26 AM
at least it works now!   ;D
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: rambozo on October 03, 2012, 02:19:12 PM
Alan after swapping the drags to carbontex im only getting 10# of drag and it is hard to crank. I did try a small washer in the handle stack and it did not change. Any ideas?
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on October 03, 2012, 04:14:07 PM
spectra slipping on the spool?
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: Dave Bentley on August 14, 2013, 02:23:15 AM
I obtained a 40H a few weeks ago and immediately ordered a set of Carbon from Dawn, great service by the way, and last night made the decision to install them.

As I cleared the kitchen table to begin the job, (winter here and too cold in the shed) the wife, bless her heart, in her dulcit tones enquired as to, what are you doing now,  how much mess are you going make, make sure you clean it up and how long is it going to take.

My reply was drag washers, none, yes and Alan Tani said 30 minutes. "Her whip like was response was, (keep in mind she isn't a fishing person and doesn't read forums),  Oh yeah but Alan knows what he's doing, it will take you hours.

It was easy and quick, only took two goes and that was the eared metal washers up instead of down, and the yoke washers under the yoke instead of under the springs.

Thanks for the tutorial.
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: alantani on August 14, 2013, 03:06:07 AM
Thanks for the best chuckle I've had in a while!   
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: falconer on October 09, 2013, 03:12:41 AM
Sometimes I think we stress too much about some drag when we have the star wheel rolled all the way back toward the reel crank handle.  Keep it there in storage, and it'll still crank down to the pounds of drag we want, when we need it on the water.  Just received a 30T back from Alan and there's slight drag at full "back-off", same as when I sent the reel in to the Master.  All I did was re-paint the reel with Duracoat firearm finish.  Big difference from a "storage setting" to a drag setting when we're fishing, and just not significant in drag performance when it counts.

Good fishing to you all!

Doug
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: mhc on October 11, 2013, 09:43:01 AM
QuoteSometimes I think we stress too much about some drag when we have the star wheel rolled all the way back toward the reel crank handle.  Keep it there in storage, and it'll still crank down to the pounds of drag we want, when we need it on the water.  Just received a 30T back from Alan and there's slight drag at full "back-off", same as when I sent the reel in to the Master.  All I did was re-paint the reel with Duracoat firearm finish.  Big difference from a "storage setting" to a drag setting when we're fishing, and just not significant in drag performance when it counts.

Hi Doug,

I agree it's not important - if that is how the reel was manufactured, in your case you know the history of the reel and it has been serviced by an expert. With an unloved secondhand reel like my 30T, that has an uncertain background and serviced by myself, it can be a indication that something is amiss, either with the components or the reassembly. Or, on the other hand, the reel could have been like that from new in which case I have wasted a few hours with pointless pedantic pondering.

Michael
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: MuskyFishing on July 22, 2014, 12:35:50 AM
I have a Saltist STTLW50HA  Yeah its a 50, but close enough to this blog.  -So I don't open a new thread, I will post here.
To get to the DRAG discs, Do I have to the the gear completely off? (Are they UNDER or OVER the gear?).

I also wanna take this time to praise Mr Tani for taking his patience (and I bet a lot of it) To help me understand stuff.
Im not just new to messing inside a reel, Im new to fishing as well.
  I truly am honored that he takes time to read and REPLY to my "POSTS-OF-A-THOUSAND-QUESTIONS".   SO THANK YOU!!
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: MuskyFishing on July 22, 2014, 12:41:10 AM
Question..  To work on a reel,  Do I take side A off, then re-attach it,  AND THEN do side B?
OR
Do I take BOTH sides off, work on it, And then put both sides back on?
Is there a 'right' order of which side needs to be taken off and on, first?
Example: Does side R need to be off before side L , but replace side L before side R to reassemble.
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: mhc on July 22, 2014, 09:28:04 AM
Hi MuskyFishing

You're right the saltist 30T, 40, & 50 are very similar, they share the same sideplates and internals with different width spools & frame.

"To get to the DRAG discs, Do I have to the the gear completely off? (Are they UNDER or OVER the gear?)"
The drags sit inside the main gear - have a look at the 8th & 9th photos in Alan's tutorial for a shot of the drags installed and the order the washers are installed.

"Is there a 'right' order of which side needs to be taken off and on, first?"
Not with the saltist star drag reels, they are pretty simple reels - I start with the handle side then the spool and opposite plate, clean the plates, bearings, grease the drags etc while it is stripped then re-assemble - but you can do it in whatever order works you, if you are unsure follow Alan's tutorial.
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: chxh8me on February 10, 2015, 08:01:14 PM
I recently pulled my 40T apart to clean/grease/lube it.  After getting it back together, I noticed that when the reel is out of gear, and I crank the handle, the spool still spins a little.... as if it hasn't fully disengaged.  Unfortunately, I am not sure if it was doing that before I took it apart.  Although I did pick up someones 30T this weekend and it did not have the same issue.

I do recall that the spool did not want to come out easy when I disassembled it.  As if the pinion gear did not want to release the spool shaft.  I'm not sure if the spool shaft or pinion gear was somehow slightly damaged/bent while pulling on some decent grade yellows or what.  Looking at it, I can't see any noticeable issue.

I also compressed the yoke springs a bit, just to make sure they weren't putting excess pressure down on the yoke.  And made sure there was no grease on the spool shaft either.

Any suggestions on remedying this issue?  Or is it a non issue?  Freespool doesnt seem to be affected too much.  If I put very light thumb pressure on the spool while it is out of gear and cranking the handle, I can't feel any sign of the spool wanting to spin.

Am I just being overly paranoid?  I am not sure its much of an issue, but I have to imagine that any friction between the pinion gear and the spool shaft would have some effect on freespool.

On a side note, I did notice that a new Penn Fathom that I played with had the same issue with the spool rotating while cranking the handle in free spool.
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: Slazmo on February 11, 2015, 12:54:44 AM
Just a quick addition to this. I recently saw a load of Saltist O/H's 40's about 12 or 16 of them go into a friends for major service. Every Anti Reverse handle bearing was severely corroded out on the handle shaft bearing race, seemed that the actual bearing retainer and bearings were ok however all had to be replaced as one. Daiwa Japan had a terrible lead time and this caused quiet a few issues!

Good idea on changing the AR bearing to something similar Alan! I wonder if the Torium bearing from Shimano is far superior to Daiwa's offerings? I seem to get a lot of dodgy bearings from Daiwa (Thai made bearings)...

Andrew
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: Fish-aholic on February 12, 2015, 10:11:29 PM
chxh8me, with the lever positioned in free spool, any cranking of the handle will cause the main gear to rotate with the drive shaft. The pinion gear is still in contact with the main gear so it too will rotate. Inevitably this generates friction upon the spools shaft that passes through the pinion gear thus causing the spool to (slightly) rotate. It is a non issue as you thought. ;)
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: chxh8me on February 12, 2015, 11:35:51 PM
Quote from: Fish-aholic on February 12, 2015, 10:11:29 PM
chxh8me, with the lever positioned in free spool, any cranking of the handle will cause the main gear to rotate with the drive shaft. The pinion gear is still in contact with the main gear so it too will rotate. Inevitably this generates friction upon the spools shaft that passes through the pinion gear thus causing the spool to (slightly) rotate. It is a non issue as you thought. ;)

Thank you.  That's what I was hoping.  glad I didn't mess anything up when I was working on it.
Title: Re: saltist 40
Post by: Osmo3 on May 02, 2021, 12:12:32 AM
I purchased a used one in good external condition thinking that an easy upgrade was in store.  Unfortunately, the previous owner glued the side plate screws with loctite blue! 🤬  With a lot of force, I was able to eventually loosen the screws however the slots were ruined so I ordered replacements from Mike's Reel Repair.  Oh well! At least Daiwa sent me the correct schematic.