if you've followed my posts, you know how big a fan i am of the old school internationals. i am just as impressed with the new "v" series internationals. here is the reel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_47_59_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_48_02_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_48_04_2.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_48_07_3.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_48_10_4.jpeg)
here's a link to the schematic.
http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/images/pennparts/schematics/50vsx.pdf
we need a no. 15 torx bit to back out the five left side plate screws (key #39).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_51_34_0.jpeg)
it separates easily to remove the spool assembly (key #29).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_51_36_1.jpeg)
before they get lost, let's find the disc clutch springs (key #'s 18 and 18A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_51_39_2.jpeg)
remove the five right side plate screws (key #38).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_51_42_3.jpeg)
we now have four separate pieces, the right side plate assembly (key #1), the frame assembly (key #183), the spool assembly (key #29) and the left side plate assembly (key #27).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_51_45_4.jpeg)
the hardest part of servicing this reel is removing the handle. you'll need to have a special wrench (part #168-30VS).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_57_06_0.jpeg)
slide the wrench under the shifter button retaining ring (key #110C) to hold the shift housing (key #110B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_57_10_1.jpeg)
unscrew the shifter button retaining ring (key #110C).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_57_12_2.jpeg)
the shift button (key #172) pulls right out.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_57_15_3.jpeg)
remove the shifter retaining plate (key #133).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_2_57_17_4.jpeg)
the shifter catch holder assembly (key #170) pulls straight up.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_01_28_0.jpeg)
remove the shifter retaining ring (key #67B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_01_30_1.jpeg)
the shift housing (key #110B) lifts straight up.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_01_32_2.jpeg)
remove the handle locking plate (key #110A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_01_35_3.jpeg)
note the position of the peg underneath and the matching hole in the handle arm.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_01_37_4.jpeg)
remove the handle screw (key #23).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_04_55_0.jpeg)
remove the handle assembly (key #24). ok, i don't know about you guys, but i think this is way too complicated to just remove a handle.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_04_58_1.jpeg)
remove the gear stud shield (key #50).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_05_00_2.jpeg)
take a sharp pair of needle nose pliers and push out the retaining ring (key #195).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_05_03_3.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_05_06_4.jpeg)
lift the right side plate assembly (key #1) and the main gear assembly drops out as a unit.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_09_20_0.jpeg)
here's the underside of the right side plate (key #1).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_09_23_1.jpeg)
remove the right main side plate bearing (key #55A). i made the mistake of not measuring this bearing while i had it out. i THINK the dimensions are 10 x 26 x 8.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_09_26_2.jpeg)
pull the bearing shields.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_09_29_3.jpeg)
the bearing is not completely packed with grease. that will become a problem later.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_09_31_4.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_11_36_0.jpeg)
let's pack it with grease and put the shields back on.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_11_38_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_11_40_2.jpeg)
install the right side plate bearing (key #55A) into the right side plate assembly (key #1).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_11_44_3.jpeg)
install the main gear assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_11_49_4.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_14_29_0.jpeg)
install the retaining ring (key #195).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_14_35_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_14_40_2.jpeg)
install the gear stud cover (key #50).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_14_44_3.jpeg)
install the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_14_48_4.jpeg)
install the handle screw (key #23). make sure it lines up with the hole in the handle arm.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_20_30_0.jpeg)
if the handle screw (key #23) is lined up properly, the handle locking plate (key #110A) will drop right in.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_20_33_1.jpeg)
install the shift housing (key #110B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_20_37_2.jpeg)
install the shifter retaining ring (key #67B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_20_39_3.jpeg)
install the shift housing (key #110B). use a small screw driver to spread the two shifter catch plates (key #172B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_20_43_4.jpeg)
install the shifter retaining plate (key #133).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_23_05_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_23_08_2.jpeg)
the shift button (key #172) pushes right in.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_23_13_3.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_23_16_4.jpeg)
use the wrench to hold the shift housing (key #110B) and screw on the shifter button retaining ring (key #110C).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_25_58_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_26_01_1.jpeg)
and the right side plate is done.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_26_03_2.jpeg)
now on to the frame. let's back out each one of the stand screws (key #63).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_26_08_4.jpeg)
remove the stand (key #30).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_28_38_0.jpeg)
there has been concerns in the past about greasing these screw holes. i still believe that it is better to grease these screws and risk having them back out, then it is to have them corrode.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_28_40_1.jpeg)
now that they are well greased, re-install the stand (key #30) and stand screws (key #63).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_28_43_2.jpeg)
install the rod clamp (key #33C).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_28_45_3.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_28_47_4.jpeg)
add a small bead of grease to all of the screw holes in the frame (key #183).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_30_38_0.jpeg)
let's set the frame aside and move on to the spool assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_30_40_1.jpeg)
here's the left side of the spool assembly (key #29).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_30_45_3.jpeg)
remove the pinion retaining washer (key #67A) and pinion retaining screw (key #67).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_34_22_2.jpeg)
to remove the drag cover (key #156), we first need to lift the lock pin (key #156A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_30_47_4.jpeg)
lift the lock plate (key #156B) and rotate it 90 to 180 degrees.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_34_17_0.jpeg)
use the wrench to turn the drag cover (key #156) clockwise. the pinion retaining screw (key #67) and pinion retaining washer (key #67A) should be removed in this photo but this photo was shot out of sequence.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_34_19_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_34_24_3.jpeg)
take a look at the outer drive plate assembly (key #117DN). note the uneven application of dura gel. without an even coat, saltwater intrusion can cause damage to this drag washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_3_34_27_4.jpeg)
remove the six ratchet plate retaining screws (key #101).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_08_15_1.jpeg)
remove the metal drag washer (key #7A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_08_17_2.jpeg)
remove the bearing spring (key #41).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_08_19_3.jpeg)
remove the inner drive plate assembly (key #117AN). again note the uneven application of dura gel.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_08_22_4.jpeg)
the left spool bearing (key #55B) is removed with the inner drive plate assembly (key #117AN). this bearing measures 0.5 x 0.875 x 0.280.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_14_19_0.jpeg)
this bearing had a thrust washer (no key #) underneath.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_14_22_1.jpeg)
remove the spool sleeve (key #13A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_14_25_2.jpeg)
remove the pinion gear assembly (key #13).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_14_27_3.jpeg)
remove the four ratchet plate screws (key #101).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_14_30_4.jpeg)
remove the ratchet disc plate (key #81).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_17_03_0.jpeg)
remove the spool bushing (key #173).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_17_05_1.jpeg)
remove the right spool bearing (key #55B). this bearing also measures 0.5 x 0.875 x 0.280.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_17_08_2.jpeg)
the spool sleeve (key #13A) is also commonly known as a bearing sleeve. the purpose of this sleeve is to prevent the drag springs from placing an axial load on the spool bearings. this allows the spool to spin freely in freespool. if the bearing sleeve is too short, then it may as well not even be there. if the bearing sleeve is too long, you will have great freespool when the reel is level or turned to the left. turn the reel to the right and you will loose freespool. that is because the spool is shifting against the drag washer. this problem is most commonly seen in the shimano tld single and two speed reels. this bearing sleeve measured 1.513 inches and had to be shortened down to 1.492. even ground down 0.021 inches, there was still a slight amount of play in the spool. it was not enough to affect performance or freespool.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_17_10_3.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_17_12_4.jpeg)
i have opted to remove the shields of the spool bearings, clean out the excess grease, lube them with "xtreme reel +" and reinstall them open. i am very impressed by this new lube for spool bearings.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_21_14_0.jpeg)
install the right spool bearing (key #55B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_21_16_1.jpeg)
install the spool bushing (key #173).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_21_18_2.jpeg)
install the ratchet disc plate (key #81) and grease the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_21_20_3.jpeg)
install the ratched plate screws (key #101).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_21_26_5.jpeg)
install the pinion gear assembly (key #13).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_23_35_0.jpeg)
install our now slightly shorter spool sleeve (key #13A).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_23_37_1.jpeg)
install the left spool bearing (key #55B).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_23_40_2.jpeg)
here is a closer look at the inner drive plate assembly (key #117AN). saltwater intrusion could cause extensive damage.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_23_43_3.jpeg)
let's give the drive plate a generous coat of cal's drag grease, paying particular attention to the edges.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_23_45_4.jpeg)
now wipe off all of the excess.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_25_47_0.jpeg)
a well greased drive plate such as this will be impervious to salt water.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_25_50_1.jpeg)
install the thrust washer (no key #).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_25_52_2.jpeg)
install our well greased inner drive plate assembly (key #117AN) and give the spool a spin. this spool spun for 100 seconds.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_25_55_3.jpeg)
grease the screw holes ratched plate screws (key #101).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_25_57_4.jpeg)
install the metal drag washer (key #7A) and ratched plate screws (key #101).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_28_28_0.jpeg)
install the bearing spring (key #41).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_28_30_1.jpeg)
remove the outer drive plate assembly (key #117DN) by simply pushing it out of the drag cover (key #156).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_28_33_2.jpeg)
add a generous coat of cal's grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_28_35_3.jpeg)
remove the excess.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_28_38_4.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_30_49_0.jpeg)
push the outer drive plate assembly (key #117DN) back into the drag cover (key #156).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_30_51_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_30_53_2.jpeg)
screw the drag cover (key #156) back onto the spool (key #29).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_30_56_3.jpeg)
make sure the lock plate (key #156B) is turned 90 to 180 degrees.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_30_58_4.jpeg)
turn the drag cover (key #156) down until it seats, then return the lock plate (key #156B) to it's locking position. now tighten the drag cover slightly until the lock plate drops down into position.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_33_54_0.jpeg)
screw in the pinion retaining screw (key #67A) and pinion retaining washer (key #67).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_33_57_1.jpeg)
the spool assembly is done. set it aside with the completed right side plate assembly and frame assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_33_59_2.jpeg)
finally, the left side plate assembly (key #27). all we need to do here is pack the left side plate bearing (key #55) with grease. i forgot to measure this one as well, but i believe the dimensions are 0.5 x 1.125 x 0.375
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_34_01_3.jpeg)
to prevent saltwater intrusion, these bearings need to be completely packed with grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_34_03_4.jpeg)
like this......
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_36_41_0.jpeg)
replace the shields and back into the side plate it goes. make sure the dogs (key #15) are resting against the dog springs (key #14). they will have to be in this position to install the left side plate.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_36_45_1.jpeg)
line up the right side plate assembly (key #1) with the harness lug (key #54) and the frame assembly (key #183).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_36_47_2.jpeg)
install the five right side plate screws (key #38) with a small amount of grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_36_50_3.jpeg)
remember those disc clutch springs (key #'s 18 and 18A)? let's add a little grease to them so that they stick together and line them up in a "()()" stock configuration.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_36_52_4.jpeg)
wedge them into position, inbetween the right main side plate bearing (key #55A) and the main gear (key #5H).
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_39_09_0.jpeg)
shimmy the spool assembly (key #29) into the frame assembly (key #183). the tricky part here is that the pinion gear (key #13) needs to slide PAST the high (key #5H) and low (key #5L) speed main gears, THROUGH the disc clutch springs (key #'s 18 and 18A) and into the right main side plate bearing (key #55A). you will probably have to line it up several times before you are able to wiggle it in. be patient.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_39_12_1.jpeg)
install the harness lug (key #54) and align the left side plate assembly (key #27). add a small amount of grease around the screw holes.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_39_15_2.jpeg)
install the five left side plate screws (key #39) and you're done. congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_39_17_3.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_39_19_4.jpeg)
we still need to run the reel through it's paces. remember, the disc clutch springs (key #18 and 18A) were installed in the stock configuration of "()()". i went to my local tackle shop, the fisherman's warehouse, and had one of the managers (thomas) spool up the reel with 300 yards of old 100# berkeley blue monofilament. this stuff had probably been sitting around since the shop opened 10 years ago, so he was glad to get rid of it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_11_02_09_4_40_21_0.jpeg)
with the disc clutch springs in the stock configuration, the reel only delivered 24 pounds of drag before losing freespool. i added an extra disc clutch spring washer, changed the configuration to "((())" and the drag jumped to 50 pounds before losing freespool. this reel also delivers 40 seconds of freespool at this 40 pound drag setting. the owner wants to fish this reel with 130 pound jerry brown hollow core and a 130 pound wind on topshot with 40 pounds of drag, so our reel is now within specs. i know there have been some issues with the older v series internationals, but i am very impressed by the new v series internationals.
and lastly, if there is anyone out there that could verify the dimensions of right and left side plate bearings, i would appreciate it very much.
alan tani
2/12/09
the dimension for the right main side plate bearing are 10x26x8 and the left main side plate bearing are 0.5x1.125x0.3125.
Quote
Alan, I have a Penn International VSX 30 II speeds and after a brief fishing period I got a look inside the reel just to control the lubricants etc. I removed the left plate and the spool taking care to the four disc clucth sping. Because everithing appeared right I tried to insert the clucth springs in between the main right ball bearing and the main gear but I was unable because no sufficient space that can be obtained only pulling the speed button into slow speed. What happened and what wrong can I did?
Please help me. A lot of friends are to much joking on this my bad adventure!
Thank you Valerio (Italy)
hi, valerio !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ok, take a look at the schematic.
http://www.scottsbt.com/catalog/store/images/pennparts/schematics/30vsx.pdf
also, take a look at the rebuild post for the international 50 V series reel.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=232.0
the 30 that you have is very similar to the 50 that is shown in the rebuild post.
to make sure that everything aligns properly, push the lever to the free position. then turn the preset knob counterclockwise until it is backed off all the way. at the the same time, you must put downward pressure on the right main side plate bearing. as you turn the preset knob, you should feel the bearing sink down lower into the right main side plate. if the bearing is seated properly, then the preset screw (key #143) is properly seated as well. sometimes it is not. if that is the case, continue to turn the preset knob (key #124) until the preset screw is proper seated into it.
this should give you enough room to install the four belleville spring washers. please let me know if this works out. alan
hi Alan, notice in your pictures the shift button (key #172) has crack in it, have replaced my 30vsw and 50vsx a few times, do you get this often? any remedy? thanks
yes that is a comon problem. a small splined shaft is pressed into the button, i haven't found any remedy yet. maybe they can make a new style out of billet alluminum. keep a few for spare's you will need them eventually.
Quote from: Alan Tani on May 08, 2011, 03:56:39 PM
i know there have been some issues with the older v series internationals,
Alan: I have a 50 VSW, one of the older models. What kind of issues? Anything I can do to forestall an issue? Dominick
https://scottsbt.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204433145-International-VS-or-GLD-Reel-Not-Shifting- (https://scottsbt.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204433145-International-VS-or-GLD-Reel-Not-Shifting-)
Common Repair Problems - International Reels
Button Not Shifting (Two Speed Reels)
If you are having difficulty getting any of these reels to shift:
16VS, 16VSX 30VSX, 30VSW
50VSX, 50VSW2, 80VSW, GLD50ii Check part #23-30VS Handle Screw. If the tines on the screw are bent/broken the reel will not shift correctly.
We have discovered how this is happening. When using the 168-30VS wrench, you have to HOLD the wrench still and TURN the RING counterclockwise, NOT the WRENCH. If you turn the wrench, you bend or break the tines on the handle screw as shown in the photo.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Wow you guys know your stuff. I have alot to learn!
I've been doing small baitcasters for a few years now and am slowly going towards some offshore stuff, so this site will be very helpful in the future. I've done a couple TLD 25's, several Penns, and a couple shimano speedmasters. You Sir are an artist when it comes to repairing reels. Fine job.
thank you, but there are alot of very talented people on this board. that is what has made it so much fun!
Awesome work as always, Alan.
Re: plastic shift button:
All VSX and VS models produced as of Feb. 1, 2011 will have the "metal" shift button installed standard, and the part should be readily available form all the usual sources.
ive been waiting for this, about time
Where can I buy the handle wrench for the 16VSX?
Is this reel about the same as the 50VSX shown here?
Thank you very much. You guys are serious masters! I'm learning alot from this site.
Mystic Reel Parts 168-30vs (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/168-30VS.aspx) is the part number
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Success on disassembling, maintaining and then RE-assembling my 16vsx. Wow, there are a lot of parts. Thanks for all the info on this site.
good for you its now official you are a reel head. congrats.
Quote from: bb2fish on November 10, 2012, 08:27:39 PM
Success on disassembling, maintaining and then RE-assembling my 16vsx. Wow, there are a lot of parts. Thanks for all the info on this site.
take pictures!!!!!!
Quote from: alantani on November 12, 2012, 02:44:17 AM
Quote from: bb2fish on November 10, 2012, 08:27:39 PM
Success on disassembling, maintaining and then RE-assembling my 16vsx. Wow, there are a lot of parts. Thanks for all the info on this site.
take pictures!!!!!!
Hello Alan, great site, thanks for taking the time to post all the useful information.
I am replacing the plastic shifting buttons on my 50VSX's with the new metal ones. The 1st 3 went fine but on the last one I am having an issue. It looks like the button is going too far into the insert and I am not able to get the button to snap in and out between Low and High speeds. When I match it up against the ones that are working I can see that the button is not stopping in the correct place. I have attached a couple pictures where u can clearly see the shifter on the Left is in the correct place and works well once I screw it down. The one of the Right is pushing down too far and preventing a good high low twist and click. I took apart the bad one all the way to the handle and reassembled, I did not see anything out of place.
Have you seen this issue before and any suggestions on fixing this? Thanks JW
i'm not familiar enough with these to tell you. check here. https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn50VSX.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn50VSX.aspx) and with penn themselves and see what they say. you may have to stick with the original parts. there has to be a difference, though.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
is the spacer and spring there? 172A and 18L.
Wow!!! Thank you Alan for this write up and tuturial!! You are the man! It defiantly helps out big time for rookies like myself to have pictures of the breakdown steps. Much respect for your knowledge and help!
Aloha, KG
Have a 50VSX reel that is giving me trouble. The drag lever does not work. Loosen or tighten drag and with lever at off or at full the drag stays the same. Hard to press and turn drag knob also. Any idea where to start? Have the schematic of reel to refer to.
chances are it's jut all gummed up inside. you're looking at a full tear down....... :-\
Alan, thank you, will begin process.
Found the thrust washer next to drag lever has broken. Ordered two new ones and have checked other parts cleaned and ready to go back together once parts arrive.
Alan,
Great tutorial, thank you!!!
I'm working on a relatively new 50vsw that clearly is gummed up inside. The handle feels like it's binding, very tight. I've started the disassembly and have two questions:
First – for the step to remove the shifter retaining plate (key #133) – is there a secret to getting that sucker out? I managed to pry it out but wonder if there was a better way. It's a fragile thin piece and wonder if I should replace it since it's a bit out of shape now?
Second, I've gotten to the step to remove the retaining ring (key #195) and am stuck. I did remove the retaining ring, but I cannot get the main gear assembly out of the right side plate. It seems stuck and I'm hesitant to force it. I've tapped it lightly, but it didn't budge. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
No real trick to getting out the shifter retaining plate. Once you have removed the plunger and the catch assembly, you should be able to carfeully seperare it with 2 opposing thin/flat tools.
If you have already removed the retaining ring you should be able to knock the drive shaft through from the outside. Use a rubber mallet abd penetrating fluid if needed. Turn the shaft w/handle atrached while applying penetrant ir soaking in penetrant to help free it up a bit. Freezing the plate and/or carefully heating it may help. The tollerences are clise here on this reel and things can bind if marred/burred/corroded or not properly lubed.
Also, pics might help us visualize your difficulties
Looking to update a Penn International 80W. Are the 80 VSW holding up to Hawaii style offshore use? Used one on a friend's boat where we caught a 500# blue in the channel. Seemed good. What about common issues? Repairs? Mahalo.
The 80VSWs have tighter tollerances throughout, a steeper drag curve, with greater max. drag, and a 2 speed shift mechanism that will always stay in gear. These reels should work fine for regular offshore use here in HI. However, many of the local repair shops have been seeing alot of problems with the cam assembly freezing up, and the need for shimming the drive shaft after limited use. They also complain that they are a bit more problematic to service. I actually prefer the looser tollerances on the older 80STWs for long-term heavy offshore use, since they will continue to function despite wear and corrosion issues. If you decide on the VSW model, just make sure to service it regularily. I actually havn't serviced many of these guys myself.
Just like to add weight to some problems observed with these reels.
With the drag cam, here is the cam from a 70VSW that was a little over 12 months old and had only seen moderate use
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j393/westozwayward/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps99edac28.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/westozwayward/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps99edac28.jpg.html)
Notice how the factory grease has gone milky, and there are salt crystals captured in the grease.
This in turn lead to corrosion pitting in the cam bore
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j393/westozwayward/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps02cafc09.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/westozwayward/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps02cafc09.jpg.html)
And ultimately into the bearing
(http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j393/westozwayward/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps7c157250.jpg) (http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/westozwayward/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo_zps7c157250.jpg.html)
While we do fish in rough seas down here, this reel was always rinsed with fresh water, and wiped down with an inox wetted rag. From the outside, the reel still looked as new.
The result of this corrosion was the reel would not go into Freespool.
This is just my opinion, but I don't think the (blue) factory Penn grease is really up to the task of protecting these reels in a seawater environment. I think it seems to be partly miscible with seawater, ie it will trap and mix with it, evidenced with the photo of the cam above.
I now recommend (to those who care) , to use Castrol Spheerol SX2 for general surface greasing. Here is some product info for this grease
http://misl.org/downloads/Castrol/Castrol_SX2.pdf
It also helps I have access to an unlimited supply at work!
I have had the above reel back across my desk since I cleaned all the factory grease and gunk off, and lightly polished around the pitted areas, and the Spheerol has since kept the pitting from spreading.
I now clean all the factory grease off as a preservice, and replace with Spheerol (side plate bearings included).
I have also noted that the drag washers are also rarely properly greased from the factory as well. These get proper treatment with Cals.
Despite these niggles, I actually really like these reels.
Thanks for sharing the pics.
I think its important to see what types of problems arise after use straight from the factory, and following a complete service using our slightly different techniques/lubes. For whatever reason, the cam assemblies on these reels seem somewhat prone to water intrusion, corrosion, and stickiness or binding. The smaller diameter, and deeper cam pocket, along with tighter tollerances throughout this reel seem to me that any appreciable marring, corrosion, dried/bad lube, salt intrusion, noticable wear, or anything straying too far from optimal internal reel conditions...will likely affect the performance or function of the reel in a noticable or symptomatic fashion. I truely like many of the design features/elements of this reel, but think it needs regular servicing in order to stay the well oiled machine it is designed to be.
In contrast...
The old somewhat bulletproff, and beloved International IIs which after wearing, corroding, or experiencing parts failures (i.e. bearings, drag spring, pin/shaft, cam pocket marring, wtc.) might show symtoms, and have reduced performance, but they seem to always (or nearly so) keep on functioning.
The differences seems akin to those between an AK, and an M16...or something.
As far as grease choice goes, I think everyone might have somewhat differing opinions. I personally always use Penn Blue, and Cal's. I like the buttery/smooth texture, it's readily available, and cost effective. It also has excellent anticorrosion properties (though it can get displaced over time), and it behaves well in bearings, and parts with tighter tollerances.
I admit I have been impressed with INOX and 'firmer' greases like it to stay put, and resist displacement, as well as their longevity. However, they are typically sticky, and don't always work the best in some more finiky assemblies. They can make the reel feel a bit sluggish as well. Truth be told, it would probably be the most benneficial for the reel to lube different internal assemblies with different product, but I think TSI301, Corrosion X, Penn Blue, and Cal's should pretty much cover you on most reels.
Agree about thicker/stickier greases in certain areas. The Spheerol mixes very well TSI 321 without separating back out. I use that in the fine tolerance parts of the reel (spool bearings,crank sleeve, cams etc). This thinned down mix performs very well from my experience doing it so far, without any side effects.
I have a problem
I have a Penn International 50VSX, disassemble the main gear, but now is not as assembled. When I put it, the two pinions are loose and get double speed crank gets stuck, can someone tell me how it goes assembly? if you have pictures would be better for me.
Possibly the wafer washers that ride on the shaft between the pinions and the pinion bearing are not properly installed.
Here is a breakdown to the gears and shifting mechanism...
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=7972.0
josa1
Quote from: boomber45 on August 27, 2015, 07:23:18 PM
I have a problem
I have a Penn International 50VSX, disassemble the main gear, but now is not as assembled. When I put it, the two pinions are loose and get double speed crank gets stuck, can someone tell me how it goes assembly? if you have pictures would be better for me.
the high speed and low speed main gears will "snap" together. just squeeze them together. you will see a retaining ring inside the larger of the two main gears. it is that retaining ring that holds the two gears together. give it a try and let us know!
Here is a picture showing how the wafer washers have to be positioned in order to properly insert the spool shaft through them. It's pretty hard, at least for me, to get them to stay in place as the reassembly proceeds. If they're not in place, the pinions will be loose, and the handle will lock up.
That spot is perfect for a denser more "sticky" grease like Inox MX8 to hold things in place.
That might be good handi2. Sticky grease might hold them in position as I fumble around trying to get the assembly completed. I'll be looking for a small tube of that grease to use on occasion. Thanks for the idea!
josa1
but it is normal that the gears have some movement in the shaft are mounted?
They bring a checkpoint and not exactly as it is on the gears, I think that's allowing them to move to the two pinions.
the checkpoint is in the eyebrow that brings the small gear or going inside the large gear?
ok, this is perfect! the retaining ring goes inside the large main gear. now nest the smaller main gear next to the large main gear, give it a squeeze and the two will "snap" together. done!!!!!
perfect Alan! thanks! I was ready!
Now the problem is that I do not return button fully when I turn the knob to flying the "fast speed"
Hi Alan,
I have a 50V VSW and I just bought these two wrenches
168-30VS 168-30VS Drag Cover and Shift Base Wrench
168-70 168-70 Wrench
However when I use the 30VS wrench to try to immobilize the shift housing as per your instructions I see that part of the wrench is larger than the squared off portion of the shift housing. Did something change? I'm assuming that wrench should act like a very thin wrench and firmly cradle the two flat sides of the shift housing.
THanks
John
I believe this is an older V 50VSW
Here is the speed button area
In the first image directly under the left side of the black cap you can see a light area on the sliver of housing that is showing...that is the squared off section on that left side..there is another on the right side of that shaft.
Mystic parts seems to say my wrench should fit that but it does not.
Do I just unscrew those two screws on the top of the black shift button cap?
Thank you
John
John I have found that you have to buy a wrench for each one of this series of reels. Unlike Shimano.
Keith