I hadn't done an ABU Garcia Cardinal fulcrum brake tutorial because all of the reels I had were serviced and I really didn't feel like tearing one down. Well, I went to a small bass boat/tackle Flea Market recently, and even though I really didn't need them, I couldn't pass up these C3, Cardinal 4 & C5 spinners for $20.00 for the lot. I figured they might at least come in handy for spares. Since I had them and they needed a good cleaning & service I thought I'd do a tutorial in case someone needs a little help down the road.
First let me explain that this tutorial covers all of the following ABU Garcia Cardinal black fulcrum brake models, the Cardinal (aka green line) 3, 4, 5, Cardinal C3, C4, C4X, C5, Cardinal Royal Plus C3, C4 and the green and cream Cardinal Special C3, C4 and C4X. The procedure is exactly the same for all those previously listed reels. The only differences between the models is their size, part numbers and the 4, 4X & 5 reels have two more drag washers than the 3. I used a C3 for the reassembly example.
Here are the different drag components and configurations. The parts are in their correct installation order.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_10_52_237511229.jpeg)
First step, after removing the handle and side plate, is to remove the main shaft by removing the E-clip behind the oscillation arm block. There is supposed to be a small spring washer in front of the block. Don't lose it.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_09_58_237492425.jpeg)
From this point on, disassembly is basically just the opposite of the reassembly I'm showing. Here are all the parts from all three reels cleaned and ready to reassemble.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_10_54_237522423.jpeg)
As always, before my fingers get greasy, I install all of the parts on the rotor.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_10_51_237502497.jpeg)
Lube and install the bail trip levers. I lube them with ArmorAll to reduce dirt accumulation. One lever & spring go on the under side of the rotor and the other lever goes in the recess on the bail plate side. Once in place, screw on the cover.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_10_55_23753859.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_10_57_23754690.jpeg)
Lube and install the bail spring and bail arm on the opposite side. I use ArmorAll on those, too. When in place screw on the cover.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_10_57_237551114.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_00_237561044.jpeg)
Install the bail on the bail plate side and adjust the bail so that the roller side aligns perfectly with the bail arm screw hole. Eliminating any bind or twist here will allow the bail to snap back at its full potential.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_01_23757417.jpeg)
Once aligned, lube and install the line guide bushing and roller. I lube them with ArmorAll. Set the completed rotor aside to install later.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_02_23758677.jpeg)
I install the drag mechanism and anti-reverse dog in the body first. Lube and install the drag washers onto the click washer. I put a very thin layer of grease between each washer.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_03_23759523.jpeg)
Lube and install the drag knob cashing and brake arm. Turn the brake screw tight into the cashing. Lube the bushing and install the drag assembly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_06_23760896.jpeg)
Lube and install the insert support. Lube and install the anti-reverse button and dog. I also add a drop of oil on the dog screw before I tighten it down.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_07_23750449.jpeg)
At this point I insert the main shaft to make sure the drag washers turn freely as they should. I also add a light drop of oil to the drag stack.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_09_237622491.jpeg)
Next is to install the pinion worm gear, bearing and anti-inertia band. Lube the pinion worm gear and bearing recess. Install the bearing and retention clip. I add a drop of oil to the outside of the bearing even though it is shielded. Also, install the anti-inertia band and add a thin layer of grease.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_10_237631893.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_12_237641728.jpeg)
Time to install the rotor, main and oscillation gears, oscillation arm and main shaft. Install the rotor first making sure the nut is tight on the pinion worm gear. That will allow the main gear to mesh correctly with the worm gear. Lube and insert the main gear into the handle bushing. Lube and install the oscillation gear. Be aware that the oscillation gear screw has reverse threads. It is quite common for people, not knowing this, to snap off the screw or bugger the slot so bad that the screw cannot be extracted. Lube the oscillation arm, including the slide track in the body and install it onto the oscillation gear with the E-clip, and add a drop of oil there and at the block pivot. Lube and insert the main shaft. I add a drop of oil to the pinion worm gear tube before inserting the main shaft. Make sure to install the spring washer on the shaft in front of the oscillation arm block. Install the E-clip onto the main shaft behind the block.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_14_237651203.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_15_237662199.jpeg)
Install the drag knob indicator spring and anti-reverse spring. The anti-reverse spring fits in the groove on the main gear tube just above the teeth for the oscillation gear. Make sure that the first bend, only, is is under the dog when inserting it into the hole, otherwise the anti-reverse will not work correctly.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_19_237671527.jpeg)
Time to install the drag knob, side plate, dust cover, handle and spool. There is generally a thin spring washer or shim between the main gear and the side plate. Also, be aware that the drag knob screw is reverse thread. These also have a tendency to get buggered or stripped when a person doesn't realize the thread is reverse.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_11_21_237682427.jpeg)
Here are all three, C3, Cardinal 4 & C5, complete and ready to fish.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_08_58_237311010.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/23/17004_02_03_18_9_08_58_237311487.jpeg)
Another winning post, Tommy. And, a more than decent flea market find.
Frank
Great tutorial, Tommy!
These Cardinals are amazing pieces of engineering.
Are these slated for the water, or for the shelf?
Obviously, they are ready for either.
Thanks!
Best,
Fred
The shelf until I build a couple of new rods or need a spare/replacement, but they are to be used. :)
Great Work as Usual Tommy!
This will come in handy. ;)
Tommy,
Thank you for the tutorial. I don't own any yet, but hope to stumble upon a few one day...this will help, appreciate the time you put in😀
Brett
Great write up!
How do you find these fulcrum drags stack up against conventional spool drags? In range, smoothness, pluses, minuses?
Cheers,
Andrew
In comparatively sized reels I find them equal or better smoothness and much easier to adjust while playing a fish, but then all of my fishing is freshwater with Trilene XL, i.e. 6# UL (C3), 8# Lite (C4) & 12# Heavy (C5 & Zebco Cardinal 6).
Landed a nice Needlefish over the reef today, and the Zebco Card. 4's fulcrum drag with it's clicker a screamin was flawless.
Another great tutorial Tommy. I like the detail you put in, such as the lubricant used in specific areas. Do the reels in this tutorial have graphite gear boxes and rotors?
Quote from: Gfish on March 04, 2018, 03:47:06 AM
Landed a nice Needlefish over the reef today, and the Zebco Card. 4's fulcrum drag with it's clicker a screamin was flawless.
Another great tutorial Tommy. I like the detail you put in, such as the lubricant used in specific areas. Do the reels in this tutorial have graphite gear boxes and rotors?
Nice to hear you had good luck, Greg!
No, they are all metal except that the spools are graphite. While you can get an after market aluminum spool for them I have never heard of one of these graphite spools cracking or breaking. I have seen a couple of rim chips but that can happen to aluminum, too.
Those Needlefish don't really jump, they launch themselves like a wiggling missile and don't give-up 'till they seem to have no energy left. Lot's a fun on a light spinner. The mouth is solid bone covered with skin and they are next to impossible to hook. Yeah good luck today, 2 for 5.
Years ago I had a late 70's or 1980 Cardinal, number escapes me now, a 752?, somethin like that. Poped the graphite spool clean in 1/2 after winding probably too much line in under pressure.
Excellent tutorial Tommy. I'm gonna nab one of these Cardinals someday.
They are hard to find locally here, and fleabay is a "market value only" option, unless you are very quick on the newly listed "buy it now" items. I'm holding out for a steal. I have never fished one of these Cardinals. I remember my uncle yelling at me to quit fingering his reel...LOL...he called it an "Abo Garcious". We had some good times. 8)
Great tutorial, Tom, you made it look easy. I've never owned a Cardinal of any type, but hope this changes in the near future. Maybe I can find a 3 or 4 series.
Quote from: Gfish on March 04, 2018, 03:47:06 AM
Landed a nice Needlefish over the reef today, and the Zebco Card. 4's fulcrum drag with it's clicker a screamin was flawless.
Another great tutorial Tommy. I like the detail you put in, such as the lubricant used in specific areas. Do the reels in this tutorial have graphite gear boxes and rotors?
Would you believe that we now have needlefish in Tennessee in the Cumberland River? After the Tennessee-Tombigee Waterway was built in the mid-1980s they swam up from the Gulf of Mexico. At first they were mistaken for gar.
Midway Tommy and anyone else,
How does the Abu Cardinal 54/55/57 series of reels stack up with the C3, 4,5, etc, that you have been discussing?
Similar quality, better, worse?
Also, has anyone had a Abu Suveran? They must have been the cream of the Abu crop from what I've read.
Thanks for any info and opinions.
Quote from: Flounder Boy 3 on March 05, 2018, 09:47:15 PM
Midway Tommy and anyone else,
How does the Abu Cardinal 54/55/57 series of reels stack up with the C3, 4,5, etc, that you have been discussing?
Similar quality, better, worse?
Also, has anyone had a Abu Suveran? They must have been the cream of the Abu crop from what I've read.
Thanks for any info and opinions.
The ABU Cardinal 54/55/57 is the exact same reel as the tan Zebco Cardinal 554/555/557, and similar to the ABU Cardinal 154/155/157, which in my opinion are step lower. They are all well made reels but, again in my opinion, not quite the quality of the C3, 4, 5, etc. The "50, 150 & 550" series reels have a few plastic internal parts like bail trips, oscillation gears & blocks. The fulcrum brake series' don't have any plastic internal parts other than the nylon click washer. The "50 & 500" series' are both LH & RH. The "150" series is RH only and also has a plastic side plate. The body is aluminum, though. The spools of the coordinating sizes in all three models are interchangeable, they just have different writing on them.
Many say the Suveran may be one of, if not the best, spinning reel ever made. It is truly a high quality reel. I've had one in my hand and cranked it. It is definitely smooth operating, but I don't own one and have never fished with one.
Were any of these C3,4,5, and the X models reels made in Sweden or were they all Japanese?
Which came first, the X models or the non-X?
Finally, is there any difference in quality between the X's and non-X's?
Thanks for any info.
Quote from: Flounder Boy 3 on March 07, 2018, 01:32:13 PM
Were any of these C3,4,5, and the X models reels made in Sweden or were they all Japanese?
Which came first, the X models or the non-X?
Finally, is there any difference in quality between the X's and non-X's?
Thanks for any info.
All of those skirted spool models were made in Japan at the beginning of the transition. The "green line" was the first version, the Cs were the second version. X stands for high speed and they only made it in the 4 after the first version. No difference other than the X retrieves faster. Bass fishermen seem to like the X, but personally, I don't. For a walleye fisherman they can get a fish to the boat a little too fast for my liking. My son used to use one and I couldn't get the motor to neutral, reel in and get the net before he had the fish at the side of the boat. He used it a couple of trips and went back to exclusively using a 4.
Ran across an ABU Garcia Cardinal on a slightly damaged rod at a garage sale for $1 (yes, a buck). The reel body itself looks very much like the Cardinal 4 you show, Tommy (green over silver stripe, with "Cardinal 4"; looks like metal). The spool says "Graphite" and "Ball Bearing" and "C4", as well as "5.1:1" and "High Speed", with line capacities for 8 to 12 lb. test. Bottom of foot says "84-0". No indication of country of manufacture. Would I be safe in guessing this is a Cardinal 4, with a C4 spool? Or...?
Frank
I see on the big auction site that a goodly number of the black Cardinal 4 reels have C4 spools, marked "high speed".
Frank
Frank,
The first version ABU Garcia Cardinal 4 (i.e. "Green Line") spool has a green band with a gold band and black & gold "dental mold" design below the green. It has "C4" in the green & gold bands. The spools are graphite. It sounds like your spool is correct to the reel. The second version (i.e. "C3") spool does not have any green. All those black Japanese fulcrum brake spools, within their individual model sizes, are interchangeable, though. The C3 & C5 in that photo are the second version. The Cardinal 4 is the first version. There were a couple of minor part revisions between the first and second versions but all parts are interchangeable. They are basically the same reel with a different outside color trim/label design.
Thanks, Tommy, for further enlightening me on these interesting reels!
Frank
Festus suggested a Japanese website to me that has a lot of info on Omori (Ohmori) reels, and if I understood the dialog there, Omori made the Cardinal C series. Does that match up with what anybody else knows?
Frank
Quote from: happyhooker on April 04, 2019, 03:09:45 AM
Festus suggested a Japanese website to me that has a lot of info on Omori (Ohmori) reels, and if I understood the dialog there, Omori made the Cardinal C series. Does that match up with what anybody else knows?
Frank
No, Frank, that is not correct.
It says most Japanese people believe that, but actually Matsuo Kogyo of Nagano, Japan made the Cardinal 700 series, & others including the Mitchell 3500s, and Mizuho of Nagoya Japan made the Cardinal C series.
Gotcha, Tommy; I double-checked that website; my Japanese hasn't had much use since the local sushi bar closed up.
Gotta thank you again for sharing all your knowledge on these Cardinal fulcrum brakes; they really are some well designed specimens.
Frank
How well regarded are these reels? From what I've seen in ebay, they are regularly being sold in there so it must not be rare one, and must've been very popular back in the day as based on information I found online, they were in production from '84 to '91. My father says that it's one of the best reels ever made, but he might be biased, being big user of Abu's reels.
One thing I've been wondering, my C4 has ever so slight looseness in the crank/crank shaft, which isn't present in the modern reels I've used, is it normal or is my reel worn down slightly?
Your father is correct. Many consider them, and their ABU & Zebco predecessors, the best and highest quality mass produced spinning reels ever made. They are highly regarded by serious freshwater, especially walleye and pan fish, fishermen. That's why you can rarely buy one for less than $45 or $50 unless it shows a lot of wear. The easiest way to tell if they have had a lot of use is if any paint is worn off the handle close to the knob. That is the first place I look and if any paint is missing I move on unless I can pick it up for little to nothing. The bodies rarely show any signs of use unless they have been neglected or abused.
Remember that these reels are 30 to 35 years old so they will obviously show a little wear. Most reels made today, other than the most expensive models, with constant use will have long been consigned to the scrap pile by that time in their lives. If you have excessive play in your handle/crank you may be missing a spring washer or two on the main gear or on the main shaft in front of the oscillation arm/connecting link. Also, sometimes the oscillation gear/stainless steel screw hole gets worn and a little loose. To tighten that issue I make, and install under the gear, a small Mylar washer to remove any slack.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on August 28, 2019, 07:04:04 PM
Your father is correct. Many consider them, and their ABU & Zebco predecessors, the best and highest quality mass produced spinning reels ever made. They are highly regarded by serious freshwater, especially walleye and pan fish, fishermen. That's why you can rarely buy one for less than $45 or $50 unless it shows a lot of wear. The easiest way to tell if they have had a lot of use is if any paint is worn off the handle close to the knob. That is the first place I look and if any paint is missing I move on unless I can pick it up for little to nothing. The bodies rarely show any signs of use unless they have been neglected or abused.
Remember that these reels are 30 to 35 years old so they will obviously show a little wear. Most reels made today, other than the most expensive models, with constant use will have long been consigned to the scrap pile by that time in their lives. If you have excessive play in your handle/crank you may be missing a spring washer or two on the main gear or on the main shaft in front of the oscillation arm/connecting link. Also, sometimes the oscillation gear/stainless steel screw hole gets worn and a little loose. To tighten that issue I make, and install under the gear, a small Mylar washer to remove any slack.
There's a teeny bit of play in the main gear, through which the crank goes through, but at first glance, nothing seems to be missing. Should probably take it apart, it's been in my family since the beginning, and I doubt it's ever been taken apart, just opened for some lubing from time to time. There's also very slight, but annoying looseness in the handle's knob, I do wonder if there's anyway to tighten it, as it doesn't have screw in it.
Edit: I think my feel might be missing "Drive gear shim", part 14657 in the schematic/exploded diagram. Looked for it in ebay and google, but couldn't find anyone selling it with a quick glance.
Quote from: Finngol on August 29, 2019, 08:27:58 AM
There's also very slight, but annoying looseness in the handle's knob, I do wonder if there's anyway to tighten it, as it doesn't have screw in it.
Edit: I think my feel might be missing "Drive gear shim", part 14657 in the schematic/exploded diagram. Looked for it in ebay and google, but couldn't find anyone selling it with a quick glance.
The knob hole is probably worn. Those are pinned so it would be tough to tighten that. You could replace the pin with a threaded knob bolt and new knob or buy a new handle, but new handles are tough to come buy and usually cost $15+-.
Those shim washers are tough to come by, too. You may have to buy a thin piece of bronze or brass sheet and make your own. That's what I usually end up having to do.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on August 29, 2019, 06:40:51 PM
Quote from: Finngol on August 29, 2019, 08:27:58 AM
There's also very slight, but annoying looseness in the handle's knob, I do wonder if there's anyway to tighten it, as it doesn't have screw in it.
Edit: I think my feel might be missing "Drive gear shim", part 14657 in the schematic/exploded diagram. Looked for it in ebay and google, but couldn't find anyone selling it with a quick glance.
The knob hole is probably worn. Those are pinned so it would be tough to tighten that. You could replace the pin with a threaded knob bolt and new knob or buy a new handle, but new handles are tough to come buy and usually cost $15+-.
Those shim washers are tough to come by, too. You may have to buy a thin piece of bronze or brass sheet and make your own. That's what I usually end up having to do.
Thanks for the replies, I'd rather not take the handle apart if I can avoid it, will have to look for replacement crank, as it's just small annoyance.
I did some more searching, and found out that this part should be the same one to 14657:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABU-CARDINAL-3-MODELS-MAIN-DRIVE-GEAR-WASHER-ABU-PART-REFERENCE-977401/183759326536?hash=item2ac8e8cd48:g:FYgAAOSwc-tY3967 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ABU-CARDINAL-3-MODELS-MAIN-DRIVE-GEAR-WASHER-ABU-PART-REFERENCE-977401/183759326536?hash=item2ac8e8cd48:g:FYgAAOSwc-tY3967)
Ordered it, should arrive next week or so, if it's not suitable, at least it wasn't expensive. Otherwise the reel seems to be in very good condition, despite some wear outside.
That's the correct part. They had multiple numbers for the same part depending on which model schematic you're looking at.
I hit the jackpot and scored a C4X and spare spool for 2 bucks! Our local auction hardly ever produces these Cardinals...a super score indeed. Servicing the reel I noted a few nice changes from the earlier Zebco versions. The drive gear was supported on both sides by a big steel shaft and Oilite bushings. The drag washers are different also. Instead of the rough carbon/fiberglass looking things in the earlier reels these washers are a smooth carbon material. They look like burnt black leather washers. They are also much smoother than the early drags. The only thing I didn't love was the AR set up. I just like the earlier set up better. 8)
Wow Mo, Score of the year! that reel looks straight out of the box. Very nice indeed.
Greg
Quote from: basto on February 29, 2020, 09:02:18 PM
Wow Mo, Score of the year! that reel looks straight out of the box.
Thanks Greg. Would you believe that nearly mint reel(and the spare spool) was stuffed into a small plastic bucket with the Pflueger 429 I posted a week ago, a cheap Shakespeare of some sort, a Zebco 202, a Gladding spool, and a few jars of prehistoric pork rinds! :D It had to be just recently put into that bucket...no way it was bouncing around in there very long. 8)
Nice score, Mike! It looks like new. It still has the paper sticker on the bottom of the foot and, most importantly, there's no paint wear on the handle next to the knob, the telltale sign of use. I'm sure you will like that reel. My son used to use one extensively but I made him quit using it when we fish walleyes together. The higher speed, in 20' of water, would get the fish to the boat faster than I could put the motor in neutral, reel in my rig and grab the net. He retired it an just fishes with a regular C4 now. :)
I need to put new line on my C4, and I was wondering if I just should put mono or would braided line work well with that old reel, or would there be problems with it?
I don't use braid so I can't advise you on that unless you're using an aftermarket aluminum spool. If so braid would be fine.
If you are using the original spool and choose mono make sure you use some type of backing/filler. My recommendation is not to use over 125 yds of mono. I use 12# dacron as backing. Filling it with mono can, especially in cold weather, pop the front off of the spool when the mono shrinks.
Guesstimating here, but you may be able to cast further with braid and a mono leader. Braid seems to twist more which is real bad for trolling, but lack of mono-like stiffness and durability is much better.
Special thanks to you Tommy, also thanks about the reverse thread warnings, your always good value to us. Mike thanks for you follow up, cheers Don.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on June 02, 2020, 02:00:25 PM
I don't use braid so I can't advise you on that unless you're using an aftermarket aluminum spool. If so braid would be fine.
If you are using the original spool and choose mono make sure you use some type of backing/filler. My recommendation is not to use over 125 yds of mono. I use 12# dacron as backing. Filling it with mono can, especially in cold weather, pop the front off of the spool when the mono shrinks.
Ah yeah, now I remember, bought mono, for 24 lbs, maybe a bit too big for the fish we get in here, but at least it won't snap as easily. After getting the missing washer, the reel now works like a charm.