I found this on craigs and I had to get it,
I gave it a Tani-over and started the reassembly.
I am stuck trying to put the dawg spring back in. I had to stop as I had to catch my flight out to work.
I am back and I am staring at it.
Any suggestions/tricks in putting the dawg spring back in?
Also, what is the max drag on this with cf drag material?
On the dog spring —
Just put everything in place without the bridge screws — then slightly rotate the bridge enough to slip the spring in place — rotate the bridge back into position — then fasten the bridge screws in place.
I always test the dog at this point just to make sure it is engaging properly before going any further.
If it works and clicks — you have Gold.
Pretty easy after you do it a couple of times — but hard unless you do this trick.
Best,
Fred
I assemble these the same way Fred is describing...but I like to put the bridge screw that the dog rides on into place. That way the dog won't move on you, then you can slip that spring under the edge of the bridge and press into place before swinging the bridge into it's final position and tightening that screw the dog is riding on. These old LBs can have either flat or coil springs. If yours has the coil type...a dab of grease on it will help slow it to warp speed if it goes flying. The flat spring will develop the best action if you straighten it before bending around the post. Try not to get a lot of grease on the dog, it's action is fastest when oiled rather than greasing.
With a stock 3-stack of carbon fiber drags you'll get 10-12lbs. max power, with a 5-stack you can see 15-17lbs. If you are using the stock brass gear sleeve I'd keep the binders under 10lb. to prevent any trouble. Also, if you're just dropping lines off the side of the boat that chrome spool will do fine, but these reels cast much easier with an aluminum or plastic spool. 8)
Thanks a bunch, that did it!
The dog screw did the trick and turning it in!
But I think the drag stack is too thick with the cf drags, I also replaced the hard fiber washer with a cf drag,
I am double checking which cf drags I put in
and also if I put in 6-113 Washer instead of the 4-60 fiber washer.
I wonder if I should put original fiber washer and try it again
Right, Mike & Gobi —
The long threaded bridge screw that goes through the dog needs to be just holding the dog in place until the spring is inserted — bridge rotated back in place — then that screw gets snugged up first — then the others (3).
Sometimes we do so many of these that it becomes second nature — and a detail or two is missed when explaining to others.
Thanks, Mike!
Best,
Fred
Glad I could help Fred, I know how many times you and others here have walked me through these things, I feel great to be able to help!
Yes Gobi, you are correct, the #6-113 under the gear will push the stack out a little bit. Sometimes it will never hurt a thing...sometimes it will rub the side plate. Try subbing a #6-155, or a new #4-60, or even the original fiber washer as long as the original isn't chewed up. It will get you by, but a new washer under the gear will be best. Inside the gear you'll want #6-60s. 8)
I have built over a hundred of the 60's and 65's for local head boats. I don't know max drag but tourist catch a lot of amberjacks with them. There is a trick to the dog springs but I would have to show you. I don't know how to explain it but it is easy when you learn how. Hard for a beginner.
Dwight
The Long Beach is a tough reel, enjoy it!
Sal
Fred, Mike,
Finally done, it took me 5 tries,
CF Drag - drag thickness was fine, as I dropped it in, the key did not align inside the gear. Fixed that reassemble it.
take 3 - found that I flipped the pinion gear, off came everything and reassembled it again.
take 4 - I could not remember if I had applied some cals to the gear base, off came everything again.
take 5 - holding all the screws as I rotated the plate I wished I was a hindu goddess with extra hands. torqued all the screws down and wiped the handle and put some grease in the screw holes and phew, done.
Max Drag - 10 lb works for me, so I should load it with some 30 lb mono?
Any idea how old this reel is?
I paid $13 for it, additional $4 in CF drags from my stash
I like the handle knobs color.
Quote from: Gobi King on August 31, 2018, 12:32:53 PM
Finally done, it took me 5 tries,
Max Drag - 10 lb works for me, so I should load it with some 30 lb mono?
Any idea how old this reel is?
The 5 tries is a good thing Gobi, that is exactly how I learned. The next one you do will be amazingly easier. Yes...30lb. mono is the "go to" choice for these reels. It's hard to tell the exact age of these guys since they looked the same for such long periods of time. That's the '60s look. Probably the best fishing version of the Long Beach...enjoy that reel! 8)
Future ref tip...I use two strips of tape to hold the bridge screws in place while wrestling with the assembly. Frees up your fingers a bit.
Thanks bunch for the tips, I rebuilt my newest craigslist buy, a PENN 149.
I reassembled it on the first try! I could not believe it :o
Now I need to take off the wire line on the reel to check for corrosion on the spool. Any suggestion on how to take off the wire line?
back reel it onto another reel if you have one free...if you aren't going to put it back on, put a dowel in a drill and strip it
Dude! From 5 tries to only 1? I've done abuncha these and I'd guess that my average minimum is 3 tries. I liked try 5, with the hindu goddess idea.
Cause of the spool/side-plate height to width ratio on the 60 it's probably a fairly sturdy reel, but I wouldn't go up to 15 lbs. on the drag, myself.
thor, I loaded the wire line on to the penn 60, dang it barely fit, the wire is in great condition and no corrosion was found below it on the spool.
gfish, lol, I surprised myself but I think I spoke to too soon, I have some spool rubbing/binding. ???
I swapped the old factory drags with 6-60s and the drag is good but I am not sure of the number.
Next step would be to take the apart again and make sure the the side plates are square. Should I loosen the screws of the frame posts and tighten them in star pattern?
whether it makes a difference i don't know, but my first job was in a tire shop so I cross tighten bridge and plate screws partially then cinch all down when everbody is in.
certainly makes a difference with bridge alignment in some cases where the last screw won't center.
Only had one issue like that on a 60, but it was pretty obvious: the side-plate was broken - crushed. After replacing it, discovered the spool was also tweaked, though you couldn't see it by looking, or by rolling on a flat surface, only by measuring side to side widths. The first thing I'd do is what you n' John are talkin bout. Then check spool side to side spool alignment, could be some bushing adjustment is needed or some shimming thereof.
There's a possibility the frame got tweaked, but I don't know howta check for that. Are the rings flat?
I'm following this one closely- just pulled a 65 out of the green bath that is having similar issues....
gfish, danke, I will do the diagnostics next week when I am back from work/fishing trip
I know it is old school and sounds a little hoakie —
But I am with John on the tightening in a measured and careful star pattern —
And most times the screws in the stand and posts do not need to be super tightened down — just evenly snug.
My process on these is to first make sure the head side bushing is tight —
Attach the posts and stand to the head side —
Drop in the spool —
Attach the tail plate side with the adjustable spring bushing just barely threaded in — and the screws in place — snug up in a star pattern — paying attention to freespool and any rubbing.
I typically do the screws at East and West first — not the stand ones yet.
If, when doing the final "snugging" up of the frame — and if there is any rubbing indicating a frame assembly issue — I back off each screw 1/4 turn — then holding both plates and frame in my hands — tweak/hand torque the frame back and forth until I hopefully get no rubbing — then carefully snug all of the screws. Then center the spool with the adjuster.
If there are still issues of rubbing — I look to the spool, tweaked rings, bent stand, outboard spool adjustment, etc..
Most of our little to medium size Penns can be approached in this manner — LB's, Beachmasters, Baymasters, Senators,Surfmasters—even quick take-apart reels like the Squidder, Jigmasters, and Surfmasters.
Wire can also be hard on certain spools — and sometimes the spool just needs to be replaced.
Other times, the bushings can be worn out.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: Gobi King on August 31, 2018, 12:32:53 PMFinally done, it took me 5 tries,
CF Drag - drag thickness was fine, as I dropped it in, the key did not align inside the gear. Fixed that reassemble it.
take 3 - found that I flipped the pinion gear, off came everything and reassembled it again.
take 4 - I could not remember if I had applied some cals to the gear base, off came everything again.
take 5 - holding all the screws as I rotated the plate I wished I was a hindu goddess with extra hands. torqued all the screws down and wiped the handle and put some grease in the screw holes and phew, done.
Think of it as "good practice" . . . I bet it got easier every time !
Tight Lines !
Lol, yes sir, I enjoy taking these apart and putting back together.
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will get back to reels after my next trip to Gulf Shores this weekend.