Not reel related but thought someone could direct me to a site with plans for a wooden tackle box.
mark mayo might be able to help. http://alantani.com/index.php?board=75.0
There are as many types of possible tackle boxes as there are fishermen.
If I was building a tackle box — first thing would be to determine exactly what I wanted to keep inside — with just a little room for expansion. Fresh, salt, boat, shore, ice, etc..
Plus flexibility would also be good to be able to store hooks, swivels, lead, etc. — in small plastic covered containers such as film or prescription containers and lids. Also, the ability to keep lures with hooks separated but easy to use.
Lots of information and possibilities on the internet, YouTube, etc..
Here is a clever little box that is just a basic design — however, it shows some common sense techniques that incorporate a few basic power tools, some hand tools, simplicity, and durability.
The ideas can be modified — but I just thought the techniques and presentation were excellent.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ls6ktHWalW4
Mark Mayo, on our site — is a Master Woodworker that creates designs and boxes that will outlast the purchaser.
Best,
Fred
Anything that John Heinz does is cool! Excet his C clamps, Mattias Wandel's are better (I spend a little time on YouTube.)
The Man
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 28, 2018, 11:15:24 PM
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
Right Sal, it is light duty, and not good for a tackle box, IMO.
I would have figured out first if this was a fresh, salt, boat box, surf box — then design accordingly using hardwood — or at least Marine Ply with no voids and a smooth surface — and although box or finger joints are very good, if using hardwood, I would use a blind dovetail. If high quality plywood — it would need to be at least 1/2" — and the finger joints would be at 1/2" intervals.
As to the top and bottom panels — I believe he is probably using a 23 gauge pin nailer that is shooting 1" SS pins slightly below the surface. These are a great invention for trim, and other jobs. I have a Hitachi 23 gauge pin nailer that shoots up to 1" SS pins. What a great tool! I do not think they were around 44 years ago. ;) ;) ;)
I would also install eight SS corners along with SS hardware.
This is just a simple example of a simple process to build any type of box — not necessarily a tackle specific box.
It shows that it doesn't need to be complicated — if design follows function and thought.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 28, 2018, 11:15:24 PM
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
44yrs,,,,, ;) you got 56yrs more to go,,,, ;D
The answer is. Mark Mayo! ;) :D
Joe
That box was used for camera equipment, that he uses in his shop. Definitely not strong enough for tackle.
I'm designing what I call a "Panga Box" for Cedros. It will hold 2 3600 boxes and a little terminal tackle. Overall size will be way less than 2 3700 boxes. To get around the weight/ durability problem I will use hardwood framed panels of 1/4" marine ply. The frames will be enough for joinery and the panel will save considerable weight. I will use through dovetails as they are stronger than blinds and the lid will use hidden marine hinges. Silicone bronze if I can find the size I want. I will use as little metal as possible because it always turns into an issue regardless of the alloy. The best thing to do with wood and water is an oil finish that you keep up with, unless it will sit in water for extended periods of time. I probably won't keep up with an oil finish and so I will paint it with marine epoxy paint (it is very nice living next to Port Townsend.)
These are just my ideas on how a box should be built, there are a bazillion ways to skin this cat and they all have strengths and weaknesses.
Ron
Quote from: foakes on December 29, 2018, 12:04:46 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 28, 2018, 11:15:24 PM
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
Right Sal, it is light duty, and not good for a tackle box, IMO.
I would have figured out first if this was a fresh, salt, boat box, surf box — then design accordingly using hardwood — or at least Marine Ply with no voids and a smooth surface — and although box or finger joints are very good, if using hardwood, I would use a blind dovetail. If high quality plywood — it would need to be at least 1/2" — and the finger joints would be at 1/2" intervals.
As to the top and bottom panels — I believe he is probably using a 23 gauge pin nailer that is shooting 1" SS pins slightly below the surface. These are a great invention for trim, and other jobs. I have a Hitachi 23 gauge pin nailer that shoots up to 1" SS pins. What a great tool! I do not think they were around 44 years ago. ;) ;) ;)
I would also install eight SS corners along with SS hardware.
This is just a simple example of a simple process to build any type of box — not necessarily a tackle specific box.
It shows that it doesn't need to be complicated — if design follows function and thought.
Best,
Fred
Fred, I think he did a great job on the design and not taking anything anything away from him.
He built what he needed for himself and looks like it worked for him.
At times overkill is just as bad when building things.
I believe the first air gun was introduced right around when you were born🙂, 1950.
I remember buying my first set from Sears, it was Craftsmen and lasted for about 25 years, today they last a couple of years.
I know I went through 4 sets with compressor to date
Their brad nailer was very nice to use, the tip was really tapered, allowing me to shoot the brad in the grove on colonial door and window trim. I have not found one the same yet.
Quote from: Benni3 on December 29, 2018, 01:14:50 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 28, 2018, 11:15:24 PM
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
44yrs,,,,, ;) you got 56yrs more to go,,,, ;D
Benni, a couple of years and that's going to be it, my body is done, but let's hope it is still good for fishing 😉
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 29, 2018, 02:49:55 AM
Quote from: foakes on December 29, 2018, 12:04:46 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 28, 2018, 11:15:24 PM
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
Right Sal, it is light duty, and not good for a tackle box, IMO.
I would have figured out first if this was a fresh, salt, boat box, surf box — then design accordingly using hardwood — or at least Marine Ply with no voids and a smooth surface — and although box or finger joints are very good, if using hardwood, I would use a blind dovetail. If high quality plywood — it would need to be at least 1/2" — and the finger joints would be at 1/2" intervals.
As to the top and bottom panels — I believe he is probably using a 23 gauge pin nailer that is shooting 1" SS pins slightly below the surface. These are a great invention for trim, and other jobs. I have a Hitachi 23 gauge pin nailer that shoots up to 1" SS pins. What a great tool! I do not think they were around 44 years ago. ;) ;) ;)
I would also install eight SS corners along with SS hardware.
This is just a simple example of a simple process to build any type of box — not necessarily a tackle specific box.
It shows that it doesn't need to be complicated — if design follows function and thought.
Best,
Fred
Fred, I think he did a great job on the design and not taking anything anything away from him.
He built what he needed for himself and looks like it worked for him.
At times overkill is just as bad when building things.
I believe the first air gun was introduced right around when you were born🙂, 1950.
I remember buying my first set from Sears, it was Craftsmen and lasted for about 25 years, today they last a couple of years.
I know I went through 4 sets with compressor to date
Their brad nailer was very nice to use, the tip was really tapered, allowing me to shoot the brad in the grove on colonial door and window trim. I have not found one the same yet.
Quote from: Benni3 on December 29, 2018, 01:14:50 AM
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 28, 2018, 11:15:24 PM
Nice design, but very light duty.
I'm wondering how he was able to nail the 1/4" panel from the side, I would have a hard time, but I only been doing this for 44 years :-\.
Still, a very nice simple and functional design.
Sal
44yrs,,,,, ;) you got 56yrs more to go,,,, ;D
Benni, a couple of years and that's going to be it, my body is done, but let's hope it is still good for fishing 😉
haha,,,, this belt work I'm doing,,,,,it's a young man's job,,,I can't do it for to long and paint and body work,,,the chemicals will kill you,,,it's good to take a break,,,just fish as much as you can,,,my friend :D
You could mock up something with card board and try some different designs.
A box I saw years ago was approx 12" long, 10" deep and 12" tall. The lid opened to reveal vertical panels running the length with notches to hold irons vertically. The front open down to allow access to the area below th irons from lead and hook storage. With a handle on top, a latch on the front for the lid and another for the front panel, and D rings on each side for a shoulder strap. Haven't seen one since, but it was very functional for a deep sea rock cod trip. Mark Mayo's designs come about as close as I have ever found. Hope this helps with your design.....Bill
Thanks everyone for the input. Mark Mayo's boxes are sure fine Quality.
I am thinking of a box that will store 4 3700 plano boxes which slid in from the front like Marks.
However I do not have the tools and expertise to do what he does with dove tailing and routering.
So Ill keep playing around with the cardboard as was suggested.
The trouble with wood boxes is the weight. Steel tool boxes were lighter than the wood boxes they replaced. The more refined your woodworking skills, the lighter a wood box can be while maintaining strength. Not a big deal on boat and you are not having to lug it around much. These days, Plano boxes in fabric bags seem to be the thing.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on December 30, 2018, 07:16:39 AM
The trouble with wood boxes is the weight. Steel tool boxes were lighter than the wood boxes they replaced. The more refined your woodworking skills, the lighter a wood box can be while maintaining strength. Not a big deal on boat and you are not having to lug it around much. These days, Plano boxes in fabric bags seem to be the thing.
-steve
:) When men were men tackle box ;D ;. 17-1/2 long, 7-1/2 wide 8-1/2 deep . About 3-1/2 pounds empty .
:D :D...nice box Joe!
Sal
My Dad has been gone for almost 35 years now.
But when he surf-fished for Perch around San Simeon — all he ever had was an old steel military surplus ammo box painted insignia orange so he could find it later as he moved around.
It was always a tangled mess — but it worked well for him.
Today, there are thousands of options available to us.
Best,
Fred
After watching this question develop, I do hope you you build a tackle box. Most of us probably have when we were younger, its certainly a good use of your time and you will learn some things while its completed. Wood is softer and quieter than many other choices.
And when your done it can be handed down in your family to be enjoyed by another generation, quite possibly a little fisherperson!
Thanks for the question, the size is what you make it. Learn from your heart. Happy New Year :)
Mmm...
Isn't wood a bad choice for a tackle box?
Prone to rot and decay?
Quote from: Reel Beaker on January 05, 2019, 07:56:29 AM
Mmm...
Isn't wood a bad choice for a tackle box?
Prone to rot and decay?
That completely depends on the wood you choose and how it is finished.
A lot of old boats made of wood,take care of it and it will last a long time.
Dredging up this thread again, here is another approach to building a box that is strong and light.
Cut the sides and bottom from 1/8" luan plywood, paneling or something similar. The cuts do not need to be perfect. Tape the pieces together on the outside to make a box. I used a few pieces of masking tape.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box1.jpg)
Mix up some resin with a thickener to get something with the consistency of cake frosting. Use wood flour as a thickener if you intend to have a natural wood finish. Otherwise use a something like cabosil (silica powder). Apply the thickened resin to the inside corners to make a smooth fillet.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box2.jpg)
Let the resin start to set up, but before it gets hard lay strips of fiberglass tape (fiberglass cloth with a selvage edge) along the seams.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box3.jpg)
Wet the fiberglass out with neat (not thickened) resin. After it is wet out, the fiberglass will almost disappear.
It is possible to do this with polyester resin but epoxy resin is easier and safer to work with and will give you a longer pot life before it sets up.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box4.jpg)
You can epoxy a piece of nylon strap or webbing to the top and bottom to make a very strong, cheap, and non-corroding hinge. You will probably have to glue one side and clamp it while it dries, then glue the other side,
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box5.jpg)
Finally, coat all the rest of the wood with resin to make sure the wood never gets wet. Then start sanding, smoothing and fairing to get a satisfactory finish. I hate this part and am willing to accept some runs or bumps.
Epoxy resin needs UV protection. You can varnish it with polyurethane to maintain the appearance of the wood, or paint it.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box6.jpg)
You'll be surprised how strong the box is. I can stand on this one. If you want it to be stronger, do not use thicker wood, add more fiberglass reinforcing. It is possible to embed fiberglass or carbon fiber fabric on the outside too, but it's tricky because the fabric will want to lift up along the edges before the resin dries. It can be held down until it dries by wrapping with plastic or peel ply or by vacuum bagging it. It's easier to just put the reinforcing fabric on the inside.
(http://www.raingarden.us/snap/box7.jpg)
I have started fishing from a different canoe and my old Pelican tackle box won't fit anywhere. This little box has a sloped bottom so it will fit into an oddly shaped spot on the foredeck where I can reach it. It holds a rain shirt, cap, extra jigs, leader material, reel oil, pliers, etc. Make the box to fit the need.
-steve
Stitch and glue tackle box, I love it!
Ron Jones
Kind of reminds me of a dive boat I went on in the early 90's out of Long Beach, CA. the cabin bulk head was held together with bailing wire in a running stitch down the corner and fiber glass covering it :o Got to Catalina Island to find out their air compressor was in-op and they had to ferry our tanks to another boat for filling.....last time I ever went out on that boat.....But not taking way with what you have done Steve, I would feel more comfortable on you canoe than that dive boat....Bill
All good info here but I'd like to add a wooden tackle box is not the best to take on boats. Private boats maybe if they have a good place to store it. On sport boats not so much. I have seen many slip, bounced or dropped off the place there they were set just to split open and dump their contents all over the deck. Also they are a bit limited for storage to their overall weight.
Don't get me wrong wooden boxes are cool and have their place for storage at home or on private boats but IMO on a long range style boat I think there is way better options.
I really like Mark's stuff and alike and to build one yourself even better. I'd just hate for anyone to spend all that time on such great work only to have it damaged beyond repair. Back in the day that was the best way to go, but things change like having two speed reels strait from the factory, braided supper lines. carbon fiber drags and fluorocarbon leaders.
I get nostalgia and looking different, heck I do it too but if your going to buy or build a wooden box think about it's use before you set it on a boats tackle box shelves, it's transport or what ever.
A few years ago I got the urge to build a box. My rudimentary google skills found these plans. And finished product. Hidden talent for those who know me.