I'll start off by saying this is in no way meant to be a 'how to' post - I am a complete novice at anodizing who has recently started doing a few home trials to see if the process is as easy as the multitude of 'how to home anodize' guides on the net would suggest. The intention is to share my experiments and invite others that have tried anodizing to share their experiences as well as any advice, suggestions, tips, criticism, etc.
I'll give a little background to the process I'm trialing. Many of the 'how to' guides reference the Caswell low current density system (LCD) which appears to be a widely used home anodizing system (I don't have any affiliation or arrangement with Caswell but I did find their free online guide useful http://www.caswellplating.com.au/LCD.pdf (http://www.caswellplating.com.au/LCD.pdf)). After sifting through a few of the online 'how to guides', I found this YouTube 'how to' guide
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8oesBi7_II (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8oesBi7_II)
to be a good one to start with – it explains the basic LCD process and is pretty simple to follow. More or less following that guide and using the '720 Rule Anodizing calculator' from Caswell's support forum to determine amperage settings and run times, http://www.ndhsubmersiblescience.com/ano/720rule.html (http://www.ndhsubmersiblescience.com/ano/720rule.html) my initial few trials were encouraging at first but later trials were not as successful.
My tank set up;
• Constant current power supply with 5 Amp / 30 Volt capacity
• Two lead sheet cathodes and titanium racking wires connected to an aluminium bar
• 12% by weight H2SO4 bath (dilute battery acid)
• Cheap aquarium air pump and aerator disks to agitate the bath
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_12_04_19_6_05_57_27560594.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_12_04_19_6_06_00_275621324.jpeg)
The first three trials with the red dye were timed to produce a 0.5, 0.7 and 1.0 MIL layer (1 MIL is approximately 0.001" and around the limit of LCD) at 6 ASF from left to right in pairs;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_18_26_273221176.jpeg)
I then tried a gray colored fabric dye while waiting for black anodizing dye to be delivered. The dye was obviously a bit too concentrated and turned out black;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_20_54_273241286.jpeg)
The dye took well, but the finish was not uniform with blotchy areas around the edges. I also anodized (clear/silver) the frame components for an under-head surfmaster although the connection failed on one of the spacer bars and will need to be redone.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_03_19_4_19_18_27323441.jpeg)
I'm having a few issues with Windows 10 randomly shutting down and will continue when I
OK, I've hijacked my wife's computer for a minute;
Before going too much further with the trials, I wanted to check the anodizing can be removed easily without damaging the part - one of the main reasons I am attempting this is to strip parts and re-anodize them after repairs or modifications. The professional anodizers talk about (on-line) using a solution of phosphoric and chromic acids but chromic acid is difficult to get hold of – and for good reason, it's pretty nasty stuff. I found a few posts on blogs and forums that claimed phosphoric acid will work on its own if heated to between 175F to around 212F (the recommended acid concentration varied from 20% to around 80%) it removes the anodize layer without being overly aggressive on the raw aluminium underneath. Caustic soda (NaOH) is very effective at removing anodize but is also aggressive with the raw aluminium. The following link to a finishing forum thread has several different suggestions, including phosphoric acid https://www.finishing.com/20/76.shtml (https://www.finishing.com/20/76.shtml) . The process I ended up using is pretty simple, suspend the part on titanium wire, dip in >170F acid and monitor the stripping and rinse when done. I've found it's easier to do one piece at a time, it only takes a few minutes and each piece can vary in timing. The phosphoric acid i'm using is around 60 - 80%, it's sold as pH Down and is used to adjust the pH level in hydroponic systems. There is also pH down products that are based on citric acid, hydrochloric acid and other oxidising agents, if you want to try this be sure to get the phosphoric acid version.
The set-up is simply a heat source and heat proof container;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_2_34_21_2756898.jpeg)
The acid takes around a minute to dissolve the anodize, depending on the thickness, then another couple of minutes to remove it all;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_2_34_37_275692005.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_2_34_47_27570153.jpeg)
The final stages of the process look like the reaction is more aggressive than it actually is;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_2_34_58_275711477.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_2_35_07_27572871.jpeg)
And after a quick rinse under a tap;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_2_35_15_27573455.jpeg)
The dye in anodizing will not necessarily penetrate the full depth of the layer so color removal alone is not a sure indication the anodize has been completely stripped. Since anodizing is non-conductive, a simple test with a multimeter to check conductivity of the surface can be used to check the anodize has been completely removed – if there is any resistance there is still part of the anodized film remaining.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_3_28_03_275741448.jpeg)
At first I thought this piece had been left in the acid too long and had started to etch;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_3_28_11_275752437.jpeg)
It turned out there were still a few patchy areas of anodizing left;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_3_31_16_27576335.jpeg)
Another short time in the acid cleaned it up;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_3_31_45_275771274.jpeg)
One piece was etched a bit more after the bath temp climbed to around 230F and the piece slipped off the wire at the end of the stripping. It probably took a few minutes to fish it out;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_04_19_3_41_01_275782209.jpeg)
I cleaned up one side of that piece up today for another trial and it didn't take much time to sand/buff the etching out.
The stripping process I'm using seems to work for me so I'll get back to sorting the anodizing. I've made some progress and will post more when I get back from a few days away.
Mike
Quote from: nelz on April 13, 2019, 02:55:10 PM
I was really enjoying your post 'til you got cut off. The shutdown is probably being caused by Windows auto-update. There are options to change it to manual restart as well as the option for the time of day to auto restart. Hope that helps!
Thanks Nelz but I think it's more than updates, it started a couple of weeks ago and seemed to be triggered by the screen saver - if I stayed active I was OK. The last few days it is getting even less stable and is 'encountering problems and needs to restart' almost continuously. I've tried to run reset but it crashes before it finishes, tried restoring once and it helped for a few days but the restore points aren't there now. I've tried sticking needles into my microsoft doll but that's not working either!
Mike
Great thread Mike, but most of yours always are.
I'm glad you're aware how dangerous some of that stuff is, I would be scared to try it at home.
I didn't think it was possible to strip the anodizing.
Looking forward to see your finished product, I have no doubts it will be flawless when you're done with it.
Sal
This is awesome and I am sure that I will be pointing customers to this thread!
Thank you Mike. This is getting more interesting all the time.
-steve
Thanks Mike. Very interesting thread!
Best,
Frank
Awesome thread - deserves a sticky.
Drew
Quote from: biggiesmalls on April 14, 2019, 03:16:35 PM
Awesome thread - deserves a sticky.
Drew
Agreed. This is also way past my pay grade. ;D
We did some anodizing and electroplating in high school chemistry class 41 years ago but I don't remember a darn thing about it. ::)
I am going to follow this thread for sure.
I knew this would be interesting and you have not disappointed.
Thank you for posting this. I have a number of reels I hope to get cleaned up and re anodized one day in the not to distant future.
Glad you have got around to sharing this with everyone Mike. Surprised that this hasn't been covered in detail before, but this is a great start. I am following this with interest. But I can see plenty more parcels on your door-step in the not too distant future! ;D :D
Mike - I'm following this with great interest. This is something I've always wanted to try.
Quote from: alantani on April 14, 2019, 05:46:21 PM
Quote from: biggiesmalls on April 14, 2019, 03:16:35 PM
Awesome thread - deserves a sticky.
Drew
Agreed. This is also way past my pay grade. ;D
Agree. I'm a chemist and have thought about it but this looks like more hobby than I need to get into lol.
Mike, if you weren't so far away I imagine you'd be getting Ohana parts boxes here directly to color up for us :) From me anyway.
I venture to guess if he offered to do this for us, he would have a hundred reels on his porch the first week.
QuoteThe professional anodizers talk about (on-line) using a solution of phosphoric and chromic acids but chromic acid is difficult to get hold of – and for good reason
Ding Ding
You can't dump this down the drain and also without the correct materials you will notice color changes almost instantly in the sun. Black will turn blurple is a good example. Red will turn pink, etc.
tony
well, purple and pink are popular colors!!!!!!
Quote from: alantani on April 17, 2019, 03:57:24 AM
well, purple and pink are popular colors!!!!!!
;D ;D ;D - not so much when you were attempting green!
Thanks for the sticky Alan! There seems to be a bit more interest in this topic than I expected - I hope it turns out to be useful for anyone that wants to experiment with DIY anodizing.
Quote from: Alto Mare on April 13, 2019, 04:03:47 PM
I'm glad you're aware how dangerous some of that stuff is, I would be scared to try it at home.
I didn't think it was possible to strip the anodizing.
Looking forward to see your finished product, I have no doubts it will be flawless when you're done with it.
Sal
Thanks Sal, The stripping process is working as well as I had hoped, but putting it back on is a work in progress and still a long way from flawless. You bring up a good point with the safety aspect, I should have mentioned it earlier – Sulphuric acid and Phosphoric acid are corrosive to skin and eyes and need to be handled with care – rubber gloves and eye protection are necessary. Also, when mixing acid with water, always add the acid to the water (AAA). With many acids there is a lot of heat generated when mixed with water, if you add water to concentrated acid the water can rapidly overheat (beyond boiling point) and splutter violently, splattering the area and you with acid. By adding the acid to the water, the heat is generated at a slower rate and is dissipated in the water but still requires caution.
Quote from: Rothmar2 on April 15, 2019, 05:00:47 AM
... I can see plenty more parcels on your door-step in the not too distant future! ;D :D
Quote from: thorhammer on April 15, 2019, 11:23:50 AM
Mike, if you weren't so far away I imagine you'd be getting Ohana parts boxes here directly to color up for us :) From me anyway.
Quote from: David Hall on April 16, 2019, 01:13:41 PM
I venture to guess if he offered to do this for us, he would have a hundred reels on his porch the first week.
Thanks for your confidence guys, but I think it could be some time before I'll be confident enough to risk doing parts for other members.
Quote from: Penn on April 16, 2019, 01:20:29 PM
QuoteThe professional anodizers talk about (on-line) using a solution of phosphoric and chromic acids but chromic acid is difficult to get hold of – and for good reason
Ding Ding
You can't dump this down the drain and also without the correct materials you will notice color changes almost instantly in the sun. Black will turn blurple is a good example. Red will turn pink, etc.
tony
From what I have read so far, organic dyes (like most fabric dyes) will work but are a lot less color fast than inorganic (metal?) based dyes that are sold as anodizing dye. I am also toying with the idea of a nickel acetate sealing bath that some say is better for sealing the color than a simple boiling DI water bath – other articles I've read say it's just faster with lower energy costs?
Mike
Sounds like you may have a virus, try running Microsoft malicious software removal tool. Instructions are available at https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/890830/remove-specific-prevalent-malware-with-windows-malicious-software-remo
Do it at least twice! This will get MOST malware but knot all.
Quote from: AJ on April 18, 2019, 11:43:51 AM
Sounds like you may have a virus, try running Microsoft malicious software removal tool. Instructions are available at https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/890830/remove-specific-prevalent-malware-with-windows-malicious-software-remo
Do it at least twice! This will get MOST malware but knot all.
Could well have been a virus AJ, I had tried running reset but it was crashing before it finished - untill I diconconnected the net and reset had time to run and reinstall widows. That was a couple of days ago and it seems to be OK now, I had to reinstall a few programs but it got rid of of the stuff I've installed over the last year or two and don't use. I didn't know about microsoft malicicious software removal tool, thanks for the tip and link - it might be an easier option when it happens next time,
Mike
Before getting back to the anodizing trials, I tried the phosphoric acid stripping process with a couple of commercially anodized parts. There were two accurate handle arms and two tiburon rod clamps - both the handle arms were pitted to start with, red one in particular was badly pitted under where the counerweight sat. The black rod clamp was new and the other clamp is old but in fair condition.
Before;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_04_19_9_17_54_27679663.jpeg)
After;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_04_19_9_17_54_276791520.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_18_04_19_9_18_13_276791893.jpeg)
The handle arms and old clamp took around the same time as my test pieces but the new black clamp took a few minutes longer than the rest, and there is a small bit of residue left in one internal corner. Don't know if it was just a thicker coating or maybe it was Type III anodizing but whatever the reason, it was still pretty quick and easy.
Mike
Mike - regarding the virus. Assuming you are running Windows 10 its built in anti-virus (Defender) is reasonable but not perfect. I personally use Malwarebytes (premium). The cost is minimal and it has never let me down. I basically let the program do a complete scan every morning - on a reasobaly modern pc it only takes a few minutes. The program is also very good for online live protection. Cyber crime is on the rise, perhaps that's why there is proposed Federal legislation working its way through Congress.
Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on April 19, 2019, 09:33:28 AM
Mike - regarding the virus. Assuming you are running Windows 10 its built in anti-virus (Defender) is reasonable but not perfect. I personally use Malwarebytes (premium). The cost is minimal and it has never let me down. I basically let the program do a complete scan every morning - on a reasobaly modern pc it only takes a few minutes. The program is also very good for online live protection. Cyber crime is on the rise, perhaps that's why there is proposed Federal legislation working its way through Congress.
Thanks Chris, after the reset I am relying solely on defender, which may not be enough as you said - I've seen Malwarebytes recommended elsewhere some time ago and will look into it.
Back to the anodizing trials – I've been tossing up whether to post the details of my unsuccessful trials or just wait until I've sorted it out and show the good results (assuming I'll get good results eventually). I've decided to post the results of what I've tried to date; hoping to get some input from others that have, or have tried to anodize at home and also show that for me at least, it is not quite as strait forward as the 'how to' guides might suggest. I'll try to keep the descriptions brief but will include a few notes like the target thickness and current density calculated using the '720 rule' calculator with a few observations on the outcomes.
Next up was to try anodizing some of the stripped test pieces.
Target thickness: 1.0 MIL, 6.0 ASF, Dye: Marawe black (anodize) and idye gunmetal (fabric);
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_12_04_19_6_28_34_27563696.jpeg)
One to remember! Bath temp started at 72F finished at 76F (I don't have any temp control and am relying on ambient temps), Looks like contamination on at least one piece, the black dye was well above 140F and may have started sealing the pores before the dye had penetrated?
Target thickness: 1.0 MIL, 6.0 ASF, Dye: Marawe black (anodize) and diluted idye gunmetal (fabric);
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_12_04_19_6_33_17_27565766.jpeg)
Bath temp started at 73F and climbed to 79F. There is not much improvement - the color is better on the black but there is a patchy cloudy film around the edges that didn't buff out.
Time to step back and re-assess what I'm doing with a bit more searching the net. One of the Caswell forum threads discussed a few of the possible causes of "splotchy" or poor dyeing results.
https://forum.caswellplating.com/forum/anodizing-questions/2454-splotchy-anodize-or-dye-result (https://forum.caswellplating.com/forum/anodizing-questions/2454-splotchy-anodize-or-dye-result)
One of the causes mentioned was allowing the piece to dry after dying and before sealing – something I hadn't been paying attention to but will be from now on.
'Standard' Type II anodizing uses 12 ASF in a 15-16% sulphuric acid by weight bath, LCD uses 3 – 6 ASF in a 9-10% acid by weight bath. My bath is 12% by weight at the moment, about half way between the two processes, so I thought I would try a current density about half way - 9.0 ASF. It shortens the run time and hopefully reduces the temp variations I've been getting. I also made room in my beer fridge while I was pondering this and cooled the bath before starting, and reduced the target thickness to 0.7 MIL.
Target thickness: 0.7 MIL, 9.0 ASF, Dye: Marawe black (anodize)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_25_08_27683138.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_24_55_276821511.jpeg)
The finish is starting to look better – the scratches on the surface were there beforehand. The color is an even gun metal gray but not the black it was meant to be. I'm not sure what caused the darker streak across one piece. The starting temp was 63F and finished at 68F which is on the low side of the recommended temp. I'm not sure if the poor take up with the dye was due to temps being a bit lower than recommended causing smaller pores or the layer wasn't deep enough for black.
Next I stayed with 9.0 ASF but increased the thickness to 1.0 MIL
Target thickness: 1.0 MIL. 9.0 ASF, Dye: Marawe black. The two on the right;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_25_21_27684571.jpeg)
Start temp 65F finished at 72F. Getting darker, but still not black.
Next was to try reducing the current density to 7.5 ASF.
Target thickness: 1.0 MIL, 7.5 ASF, Dye: Marawe black
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_25_28_276851379.jpeg)
Start temp 71.5F finished at 73F. Darker again, but still not black.
Next was to go back to 6.0 ASF with 0.7 MIL and give the gray fabric dye another try at the original strong concentration to see if it produces the same black it did earlier.
Target thickness: 0.7 MIL, 6.0 ASF, Dye: Marawe black (anodize) and idye gunmetal (fabric);
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_25_44_2768626.jpeg)
Temp started at 73.5F and finished at 78F. This was probably the best result so far – both the Marawe black and fabric dye (long piece) look an even black.
The slow progression towards black showing the last four trials;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_25_47_27687210.jpeg)
I have been persisting with trying to get 1.0 MIL thickness – it's reportedly the maximum thickness achievable with LCD and would offer the most corrosion resistance using the LCD process. Thinking the process was starting to work, I tried for 1.0 MIL with the underhead surfmaster frame.
Target thickness: 1.0 MIL, 6.0 ASF, Dye: Marawe black;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_26_11_276882004.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_19_04_19_1_26_16_27689308.jpeg)
Temp started at 64.4F and climbed to 75F. The result was a good finish with an even dark purple finish. >:( :) I'll try a higher starting temp with the same settings while I wait for some jet black dye to arrive.
That brings this up to date.
Mike
Great Post Mike, getting more interesting all the time, thanks you, keep it coming, cant get enough, cheers Don.
Mike, I love the way you keep trying different settings, you are doing all the hard work for others to enjoy...good job.
I like the way the part came out, I never thought you would be able to do this at home.
Keep it coming...
Sal
I was hoping you were going to teach us all how to do this Mike. Now I realize that the rest of us will not have the patience. Good work.
-steve
Thanks guys, I've got a quick update to let you know I'm still chipping away at this. I tried to replicate the earlier trial that produced a reasonable outcome – 0.7 MIL @ 6.0 ASF and used the Marawe black and the original red fabric dye. The black didn't produce the same 'almost black' result it did earlier and the red looked OK – the four on the left of the following photo;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_04_05_19_4_36_02_27758149.jpeg)
After trying a few more settings resulting varying shades of gray and dark purple I decided to wait for the new dye before going further. Except for a quick attempt at 'fading in' more out of curiosity than anything;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_04_05_19_4_36_19_277592495.jpeg)
That's going to need practice ;D
The new dye turned up last week and I took particular care to follow the instructions to prepare the dye bath, including checking the pH was 6.0 +/- 0.5 and operated at 60 +/- 2 deg C. The first trial (1.0 MIL @ 6 ASF) was better than promising – it was a deep consistent black. I also lashed out and bought some nickel acetate based sealant which is supposed to improve the color fastness of dyes.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_04_05_19_4_36_25_277601132.jpeg)
Next was to increase the current density to 9 ASF and still aim for 1.0 MIL. The two tiles on the right (After so many trials I've been spending less time on the surface finish before the trial);
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_04_05_19_4_36_33_27761255.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_05_05_19_8_04_09_277621334.jpeg)
It's difficult to photograph black but I can't see any difference between the two results. It's still early but I am (becoming) more confident to start on a few actual parts, more to come.
A bit more of the boring details for anyone that's interested: Something I haven't mentioned is the dissolved aluminium content of the anodize bath - Most of the anodizing forums I've read recommend a dissolved aluminium content of between 5 and 15 gms/litre in the electrolyte to help with pore formation. I have been trying to ignore it, partly because they only stated it 'helps' with dying and partly because a few sites stated the aluminium content will increase as the bath is 'run in' after a few uses. Maybe it takes the 20 or so trials I have done so far to build the Al content up to 5 gms/litre rather than 'a few'.
When I first mixed the electrolyte bath I'm using, I checked the sulphuric acid concentration by following the pH method of titration in the following link https://www.pfonline.com/articles/titrating-sulfuric-acid-anodizing-baths (https://www.pfonline.com/articles/titrating-sulfuric-acid-anodizing-baths). The pH jumped from less than 3.0 to over 10.0 which would indicate there was no Al present. After my inglorious 7th trial that had multiple problems, I decided to check everything including the acid content of the bath – the sulphuric acid content was unchanged at 11.6% by weight, however this time the pH increase between 3.6 and 10.0 was measurable and showed an Al content of 2.0 gms/litre. It's a very loose correlation but after 20 trials the Al content is probably around 5 gms/litre by now which could also explain why the system appears to be settling down.
Mike
Thanks for all this, Looks pretty good from the pictures. At minimum you've got it where it will protect the raw aluminum which is the point of the process,hope to see you hanging a few fish soon!
Thanks for researching this Mike...great info for all to use. 8)
Quote from: oc1 on April 19, 2019, 08:42:06 PM
I was hoping you were going to teach us all how to do this Mike. Now I realize that the rest of us will not have the patience. Good work.
-steve
Steve - if you do not have the patience - I'm a no hoper :D
I really like the faded-in look Mike.
-steve
Thanks Mike, your pursistance is to be complimented, we are all learning, thats why Allan had the confidence to sticky your post, thanks again, cheers Don.
Mike reading this thread with great interest. Keep at it. Dominick
Mike, you are doing things that even angels fear to do. I really enjoy your posts. Thanks.
Gotta agree with Steve, I like the faded look and the purple also.
Nice work bro,
Dom
Thanks again guys, the set up I'm using is starting to give better results - with less surprises :)
Quote from: Swami805 on May 05, 2019, 03:43:52 PM
Thanks for all this, Looks pretty good from the pictures. At minimum you've got it where it will protect the raw aluminum which is the point of the process,hope to see you hanging a few fish soon!
Thanks Sheridan, being able to apply a convienient protective coating on raw aluminium is what got me started on this. The color possibilities didn't really interest me that much - when given a choice of color by custom part suppliers like Tom I often choose silver for practical reasons like scratches don't show as much and it matches any color. I think for a novice like me, adding color and getting the dying right is a way of telling if the anodizing is working. Having said that, it's hard not to notice some of the cool effects people get with 'splash', 'fade in' and 'masking' techniques and I can see myself doing a few party tricks with some pieces. Aside from the red-black fade in I attempted, I had a quick attempt at masking during one of the recent trials. The concept is pretty simple and there is a few ways to do it, one is to dye the entire piece the color you want the text or graphics to be then mask the design with stickers or rubber cement (low strength so it's easier to remove). Next bleach the unmasked area with straight household bleach, rinse and then dye the background color. Seal as normal before removing the stickers or rubber cement then seal again for the area under the mask. My attempt was with my new black dye, it took over 5 min to bleach the black and the unsealed anodize came off with it leaving the black graphics surounded by raw aluminium. :D The online videos I've seen take a few seconds to bleach the colors
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_05_19_2_43_35_27971202.jpeg)
Back to the real stuff, Ted (Maxed Out) offered to send a few of his raw handle arms to experiment on - when I accepted his generous offer he mentioned he threw a 'few' other parts in the box;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_05_19_2_37_45_279231054.jpeg)
Thanks Ted! That will keep me busy with a few projects. The first trials with the new black dye were pretty good so I decided to try a 2/0 and 4/0 Ted handle arm, aiming for 1 MIL at 6ASF. The result was the best yet, the finish and color were good. The reccessed area had a very slight irridescence that was not obvious but was there;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_05_19_2_38_19_27968646.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_05_19_2_38_49_279691417.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/27/7995_13_05_19_2_38_52_279701720.jpeg)
As I've mentioned, it's difficult to photograph black - I tried a lot of angles but couldn't capture the irridescence. I've since stripped them and tried again (1 MIL @ 7.5 ASF) I'll get photos in the daylight but the fine finish on the raw handles degraded a bit with the stripping and I didn't re-polish them but the anodize looks good.
I've got a few more colors of anodizing dye from caswell so I'll be playing with them at some stage after I wrap up some loose projects like the XN Cortez squidder frame and U/H surfmaster 100.
Mike
your a bizzy man Mike, thanks for passing this info on, I just cant get enough of it, cheers Don.
A quick update to the anodizing trials, including the XN Cortez Squidder frame result I have posted on that thread but thought the anodizing should be mentioned here as well. An earlier trial at 9.0 ASF and 65F starting temp produced a good finish that seemed hard but it didn't take dye very well - since I was not dyeing the frame I used the same settings and was happy with the result;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_02_50_284051032.jpeg)
After telling anyone that looked remotely interested that I wasn't particularly concerned with anodizing colors and just wanted to put a clear or maybe black protective coating on parts, I picked up a six color starter pack of caswell dye on ebay. ??? The first test run of the colors was at 9.0 ASF, started at 74F (climbed to 81F), all were dyed for approx 15 min - the colors took pretty well although the blue took too well and ended up close to black. There was a chalky residue on most of the pieces that I am guessing was caused by the combination of higher ASF and Temp. The red (fabric dye) and black pieces on the right of the following photo were not part of this trial;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_02_54_284142230.jpeg)
I did another few dyeing time trials with the blue, ~ 1.5, 3.0 & 7.0 min, all at 6 ASF & ~ 70F
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_03_05_284152205.jpeg)
The chalky residue left on the first set of colored pieces wasn't buffing out easily so I stripped, re-sanded and did another run at 6 ASF, start temp 66F finish 73F. Dye time was reduced to 2 min (blue and violet), 4 min (red and green) and 5 min (yellow and orange)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_03_25_284161445.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_03_27_28417680.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_03_43_284181477.jpeg)
And a bit more experimenting with muticolor fade-ins to see how the colors work together;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_03_53_28419800.jpeg)
I tried a speckled effect on this piece, but will need to check the CCTV footage to see how I did it ::)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_14_06_19_3_04_06_284202370.jpeg)
Thanks
Mike
Looks really good, the fades in particular is a nice effect. Should make for some unique reels.
Nice experimenting Mike! I really like the lighter and darker colors together.
possibilities with the mixed colors combinations are now endless.
You are doing really good !
Sal
Gee you've put some time into this! Hope you are getting the confidence to start getting some finished pieces done for your projects.
Looking fantastic!
Fantastic doesn't quite cover it ! Exceptional work !
Mike you are an inspiration
amazing.......
We are fortunate to have a great bunch of clever folks on here — that I continue to learn from!
Best,
Fred
Thanks Mike, I love the violet colour, also the multi colour with the violet , you have really spent some time on this Mike, credit to you thanks again, cheers Don.
Mike, that is amazing stuff,
The possibilities are endless with what you've achieved, there are indeed some people on this site with incredible talent,
To say the least...
Col
Wow Mike, your anodizing looks great and you have come a long way in very short time
Ted
You're drifting from the science to the art Mike. Really nice stuff.
-steve
Thanks everyone, it's encouraging to know people are interested in the process.
Quote from: foakes on June 15, 2019, 01:53:15 PM
We are fortunate to have a great bunch of clever folks on here — that I continue to learn from!
Best,
Fred
I agree Fred, there are a lot of clever people on here with a wide range of skills - too many to list but you are up there with the leaders of the pack. I don't consider what I'm doing here as particularly clever or skillfull, I'm just copying the work of others that have been generous enough to share their experience.
Quote from: Swami805 on June 14, 2019, 12:31:34 PM
Looks really good, the fades in particular is a nice effect. Should make for some unique reels.
Quote from: Alto Mare on June 14, 2019, 09:14:08 PM
Nice experimenting Mike! I really like the lighter and darker colors together.
possibilities with the mixed colors combinations are now endless.
Sal
Quote from: Donnyboat on June 15, 2019, 03:09:49 PM
Thanks Mike, I love the violet colour, also the multi colour with the violet ,cheers Don.
Quote from: oc1 on June 16, 2019, 06:54:31 AM
You're drifting from the science to the art Mike. Really nice stuff.
-steve
Thanks again, the range of colors and dying techniques available has the potential to become a hobby in itself - I didn't think I would have a problem sticking to my original goal of a functional silver (clear) finish but after experimenting with the colors & seeing some of the great artistic work done by others on the net, I'm losing my resolve and will probably end up trying custom dying techniques on some parts - for no practical reason other than it can look good if you get it right.
Quote from: Maxed Out on June 16, 2019, 05:03:48 AM
Wow Mike, your anodizing looks great and you have come a long way in very short time
Ted
Quote from: Rothmar2 on June 14, 2019, 10:55:34 PM
Gee you've put some time into this! Hope you are getting the confidence to start getting some finished pieces done for your projects.
Yeah, It's been pretty interesting though, I'm learning a lot. The fundimental process is simple but getting the desired result consistently is a bit more involved - I'm still getting 'surprise' results, but not as many as when I started. ;D I sort of think that maybe I'm almost confident enough to finish pieces for projects....soon. ;D ;D
Mike
A few more mask dyeing experiments using Elmer's removable rubber cement or tempory stickers from one of those 'organizer' wall calanders as the masking agent;
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_07_07_19_12_01_53_28592347.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_07_07_19_12_02_11_285921195.jpeg)
and a few black fade over a very light application of blue (a few seconds in the blue dye)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_07_07_19_12_02_16_28618977.jpeg)
Mike
That's just way cool Mike. Where it's black and gold do you color the whole thing gold, mask off areas, then color the whole thing black? Can you put one color on top of another?
-steve
Hi Steve, with the black and gold piece the whole thing was dyed gold, masked then bleached for a second or so to get most of the gold out, rinced in distilled water then dyed black. You can dye over colors but they will tend to blend together where it isn't masked. If you dye yellow, mask and then apply blue the background will be green or greenish depending on how long you leave it in the blue. The Coral Trout inspired piece with the two tone blue blotches on a red - orange background was a four step process, 1) a very quick application of blue then mask a few spots. 2) a longer application of blue over the unmasked area followed by more masking to make the blotches larger. 3) bleach the blue in the unmasked area then dye orange. 4) apply red over the orange to get the faded effect.
I'm learning some colors or dyes don't bleach well, the black dye I'm using doesn't seem to bleach at all - untill the anosized layer is disolved by the bleach & green, orange and yellow seem to leave a light yellow. Blue red and violet are bleached instantly - dip and rinse.
Mike
Mike thanks for passing all this on, very informative, you have really spent some time on this, cheers Don.
This is amazing, Mike...Always something interesting.
Sal
Thanks guys. Maybe a little too much time Don, I haven't used my files for weeks! ;D You're right about it getting interesting Sal - the more I look into the colors and dying techniques the more interesting it gets and the more I want to experiment.
The black fade over light blue test pieces were trials for the underhead 501 XN project - Instead of straight silver or black as originally planned I decided on a fadeing gunmetal finish.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_07_07_19_12_03_35_28619414.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/28/7995_07_07_19_12_03_45_286202036.jpeg)
To make sure the fade lined up on the frame parts, I loosely assembled the reel after anodizing and hung it on the wires you can see to dip the reel in the dyes to get the fade effect - not quite the contrast I wanted to achieve but I'm pretty happy with the color despite a few defects in the finish. I had intended to post these photos on the underhead thread after I finished the reel but that might be a little while off.
Mike
That underhead looks awesome Mike!
I agree....it's outstanding, what you have done !
Simply amazing work Mike!
You not only set the bar high, you put it out of reach! :o
Outstanding my man :o
Wow! I think that reel looks great. Good work. Dominick