I'm not doing much boat fishing at the minute, with my boat going through a complete rebuild, after finding the stringers and transom were completely
shot, which still has probably 12 months or more to go before completing her, re powering and getting back on the water again.
So when not working on the boat, my down time will be spent pimping up some of my Penn reels ( after all domestic duties from her indoors are done)
So, project 1
A 113h with a Tiburon frame, which I purchased some time ago for a steel. I very quickly opened it up when I got it, P/O said it was serviced and put away, so after a quick look, it went on the boat for really very little use since.
My apologies in advance for some very basic questions.
I would like to upgrade this reel and make it as strong as I can, It will be used off the boat, mainly for some hard fighting King fish and hopefully a decent Bluefin could be in the mix. I generally troll with a pair of international 30's and a 50, targeting that 100kg plus barrel, which I've not managed to score yet, but average sizes I guess are between 30-60kg, I'd luv to have a go with the senator with one of those.
Below is the reel in question, I can see that the drag has been upgraded, this was the order they were in when I removed it.
The clicker on the tail plate looks as if it has had a modification, with a circlip added in.
I'm not sure whether the internals are standard or not ?? I do have and fish with 3 or 4 other senators, but my skill level thus far, has only been to service them, then managing to get them back together and fishable again ;D
I have a lot more reading of threads here to be done first, but it does seem that these reels can have the hell pimped out of them, i like that idea !
Col
The circlip clicker is the newer Penn replacement. The drag washers are in the wrong order, but is the standard new style Penn. the order should be carbontex, keyed washer, carbontex, eared washer, carbontex, keyed washer, carbontex, eared washer, carbontex, keyed washer, Belville washer. You seem to be missing a keyed washer, but you seem to have a stainless aftermarket gear set.
Hi Dayone, Thanks for that, I was going to look at upgrading to the 7+1 new drag set anyway, but good to know the correct order.
I removed them and made sure I kept them in the order they were removed, interesting.
I was wondering whether the gear set was Stainless, that's a bonus then if they are.
I was just perusing through sites here to see what other upgrade parts were available still for the rest of the internals.
I like the look of the double dog set up, but haven't been able to find that in stock yet.
Col
You may want to consider a stainless steel gear sleeve and dog.
Quote from: doradoben on April 21, 2019, 07:48:10 AM
You may want to consider a stainless steel gear sleeve and dog.
Will do thanks, any recommendations here as to where to source parts needed..
ie, s/s gear sleeve and the double dog set up ?
Col
Col, here's a dd bridge in stock for that reel: https://www.mysticparts.com/Custom/ProChallenger/3-113HPRO.aspx
here's a ss ecentric plate: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Custom/11-113SS.aspx
and here's a ss sleeve: https://www.mysticparts.com/Custom/ProChallenger/98-320PRO.aspx
here's the link to all the options at mystic for the 4/0: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn113HL.aspx
hope this helps mate! Darin
Quote from: Darin Crofton on April 21, 2019, 09:01:31 AM
Col, here's a dd bridge in stock for that reel: https://www.mysticparts.com/Custom/ProChallenger/3-113HPRO.aspx
here's a ss ecentric plate: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Custom/11-113SS.aspx
and here's a ss sleeve: https://www.mysticparts.com/Custom/ProChallenger/98-320PRO.aspx
here's the link to all the options at mystic for the 4/0: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn113HL.aspx
hope this helps mate! Darin
Your a champion Darin !!! Thank you
I flicked a couple of Emails off before and was just trolling thru Mystics parts as we speak.
Those goodies look good.
Cheers Darin
Col
OK, parts arrived, let's see if I can assemble these properly.
I've never been able to do a step by step with the photo's, I'll try my best.
How good are these double dog set up's ! Bling
Drag all assembled, it's the 7 + 1 drag set up, from mystic,
Got it all greased up with Cals drag grease, new washer underneath S/S main gear, attached the drag star gave her a few winds
to compact the new drags and squeeze out any excess grease.....
Liberally greased everything up as I assembled everything.
It seemed to go together without any major hiccups.
Added the Tiburon frame to the mix, a drop of corrosion x to the bearings and finished off the assembly.
Looks awesome, Col, way to go man!!!
I must say now, I did not touch the bearings, I wanted too, but I wasn't sure on the method of removal or what tools I needed.
As previously mentioned, these reels won't get wet for at least 12 months, till the boat is finished off. I have another 113h, ready to pimp up, which is completely standard, so that will be my first experience with bearings. ( probably arse about face way of doing things but ! )
A couple of questions on this one,
I feel I am getting an ever so slight rub when winding, a very faint rubbing sound. I will have to crack it open again to inspect, but it just feels like something is rubbing, whether it's the spool, not sure.
I also have a bit of lateral handle movement, which is probably noticed more with a larger handle. How much play should be in the handle shaft.
I liberally greased everything as I went along, I fitted the new S/S gear sleeve on the bridge, fitted the pin, That being just a metal to metal fit, Is that a specific area where I should have really packed with grease ? I believe I didn't really go to any special effort before sliding it on, just grease on my tooth brush.
I'm really stoked with the end result, it's been fun, just got to do the bearings and try and find that rubbing sound,
Free spinning the spool, that noise isn't there, giving it a spin with the thumb is giving me about 17-20 seconds of spool spinning !
Sorry for all the questions !
Col
Col, if you want to lighten up that reel get an aluminum spool. It will be a huge weight savings. Rudy
Looks great!
you prolly need to shim the spool. you may also put a delrin washer under the sleeve which would tighten the slop i think you are referring to. Honestly, with everything else you have in place, I'd see if I could find Cortez plates for it.
Quote from: milne on May 07, 2019, 06:57:26 AM
I feel I am getting an ever so slight rub when winding, a very faint rubbing sound. I will have to crack it open again to inspect, but it just feels like something is rubbing, whether it's the spool, not sure.
I liberally greased everything as I went along, I fitted the new S/S gear sleeve on the bridge, fitted the pin, That being just a metal to metal fit, Is that a specific area where I should have really packed with grease ?
Free spinning the spool, that noise isn't there, giving it a spin with the thumb is giving me about 17-20 seconds of spool spinning !
I've ran into this rubbing problem myself when switching to steel gear sleeves. That steel pin isn't going to break in as easy as brass, and sometimes it has a rub...rub...rub...as it spins on the post. This is why it disappears when in free spool. Of course time and use will smooth it out, but the best way to eliminate it is to just spool 'er up. 8)
Hi guys, Thanks for every ones feed back.
Mo, I didn't think of that, that makes sense why it seems to be gone when free spooling.
For some reason I was thinking about the gear sleeve on the bridge fitting, thinking I hadn't packed enough grease in between there.
I will change out the under gear washer to a derilin one, I don't like that slop which I have in the handle, so I will have a play with it.
I'm going to do the same with my second 113h and as mentioned, they wont really get tested till next year when the boats back on the water, so I have plenty of time to tinker and adjust things.
Rowdy, I have a wide aluminium spool and your right, the weight difference between the two would be a great option I think !
Plus as I mentioned, I want to service the bearings properly and check them out, so still more to do.
Gee, it doesn't end when pimping these old girls up !
But I guess that's the fun of it .
Thanks for the feed back guys.
Col
Nice job Col!...looks great!
Sal
Col - That is an awesome looking reel and Good Job!
Also, I just finished doing a similar one over the weekend, and when you mentioned handle slop I had the same issue and here is what I found. I am NOT bagging on any of the parts or manufacturers; any time you get into the world of "custom aftermarket" things will many times need massaging to play nice. In my case the stock Penn handle nut has a fillet or "shoulder" under it, and the aftermarket SS sleeve was cleanly machined, whereas the original Penn sleeve had a slight "chamfer" or "countersink" to it the allowed the handle nut to engage further into the threads (maybe another full turn?) so that when the handle nut was as tight as I dared get it, the handle itself still had play since the handle nut was not threaded as far as with the stock sleeve. Solution (since I don't have the cajones or skill to Dremel a chamfer into my new $$ $leeve) was I added a thin SS shim washer between the nut and outside of the handle, so that when full engaged the handle is locked solidly to the sleeve. You might want to see if that is the source of some of your handle slop. - Brewcrafter
Thanks for that BrewCrafter,
My after market handle, I just noticed now, is a lot thicker than the stock Penn handle. I had to file a tad off the new sleeve end for the handle to fit, even the standard Penn one was to small, no problem tho, easily done. However in looking at it, the sleeve only fits about half way into the aftermarket handle, which to me, it would be nice to have the sleeve go into the handle and finish slightly below the outer edge of the handle as the standard one does.
I have about a couple of turns on the star drag, between the inner edge of the handle and for it to have contact on the spacer sleeve, and it seems to be about a turn and a half on the star, from start to full drag. The play in the handle, is the whole sleeve assembly moving, Not a huge amount, but enough to be of concern when loaded up and a 50LB kingfish on the end. I am concerned with that and now only half the thickness of the sleeve end is in the handle shank, would be a lot more solid if indeed it was in further, but isn't contributing to the actual "handle slop" I have.
Cheers
Col
Just another question guys
I just had to have a fiddle before dinner tonight !
I had an old orange coloured under gear washer, which was out of this reel originally, ( not sure what its made of) I wanted to see if it was thicker than the one supplied with the 7+1 stack drag system I'm using. It was slightly thicker, but made no difference to the handle slop that's happening, if fact it may have felt worse. once reassembled with that washer in, I had the whole head plate assembly with handle attached so while putting side to side pressure on the handle and looking underneath, you can actually see the the movement/slop in question between the gear on the bottom of the sleeve and the bridge plate, it's in all directions that you move the handle in, it's quite excessive and ofcourse when the reel is assembled, it's felt alot more with the longer after market handle. But actually seeing the movement makes me think that that isn't right, well, it feels wrong at the handle end anyways.
I don't have a small thin punch here at home to remove the sleeve and have a good look at it taken off. I did grab an old parts reel, with a stock bridge and sleeve still assembled for a comparision and while there obviously is some lateral movement, I don't think its as much as i'm getting with this new set up, it's clear to see the gear moving. So, if it's all fitted correctly, which I'm pretty confident it is, then this must just be the tolerances ?
I guess then, I'll have to look at options, someone mentioned to me that you can offer up some form of shim under the sleeve which may eliminate some play ? is this an option ?
Any help or advice on this would be gratefully accepted............
Col
I meant a delrin washer under the sleeve itself, not under the gear. I think Sal has a thickness measurement for this...
John
Quote from: thorhammer on May 08, 2019, 11:14:54 AM
I meant a delrin washer under the sleeve itself, not under the gear. I think Sal has a thickness measurement for this...
John
Hi John, yes, sorry for not responding, I did read your comment, thanks for that.
I was talking with someone else at the same time as well on messaging and they confirmed the same thing, a Derilin washer under the sleeve itself helped to eliminate "slop", and also to use one under the gear, rather than the supplied drag washer ( separate reasons)
Hopefully Sal will read this and advise on the measurements or availability etc for me to try.
After you also commented on the Cortez side plates, I drifted off looking for info on them, John, this pimping is becoming endless !!!
I haven't found out too much about them yet, I might leave this one with the original Penn side plates, BUT, my second 113h I want to pimp up as well I
might look at going the whole hog with that one, and as Rudy suggested, an aluminium spool, I kinda like this one with that vintage look of the original plates. Then there's the narrow framed one that I can see a use for !!!!!
I guess there's always fitment issues along the way with anything you do like this, if it was minimal slop, I probably wouldn't have noticed as such, but it's clearly a lot more than that.
Thanks for your help John, appreciated
Col
Ok,
So I thought I would completely strip everything down again, to have a good close look at the bridge plate and sleeves actual fitment, to try and
have a look at the tolerances. The current slop at the handle, as mentioned, makes this reel unfishable.
I even re installed the original brass single dog plate and original sleeve, which has all but eliminated, or improved the handle slop and at least made the reel fishable.
To me, it's seems like a machining quality issue, surely everyone of these Mod's sold from what I've read, haven't had this particular issue or comments would have been made, which I haven't managed to find or read. So I'm going to order another complete set for my other 113h and in the mean time try and see what I can do myself, to somehow get a better fitment of the set I have, not sure what I can do, but I don't mind having a play with it.
I understand that there has been the use of a shim under the sleeve to address this issue, but I can't seem to find any discussion anywhere from the searches I made. It looks to me that the hole for the pin in the sleeve would dictate whether a shim was necessary, as shimming would lift the sleeve up closer to the pin itself and reduce inward/outward movement of the handle assembly, and I guess it would help reduce overall slop, which is what I am seeing on the new S/S assembly comparing to the standard stock bridge there is definitely outward slop due to pin placement, much more than the stock one. However its the lateral movement of the sleeve on the bridge post which is markedly more than the standard bridge sleeve assembly. I'll take both sets to my workshop in the morning and put the micro meter on both bridge posts and the internal diameter of both sleeves.
This will only reveal between the two I have, the differences in clearance the two bridge posts have inside the sleeve, but the standard brass one is a lot tighter by pure feel, which I'm sure will show up with a micrometer. I would have though you could have at least the same, or probably tighter tolerances when upgrading to S/S.
Interesting and frustrating altogether ;D
Col
It's Friday night, it's raining and winter is approaching, so what else is there to do ;D
With out yet getting a micro meter on things, one very noticeable tolerance difference, in a position that would contribute to a large percentage
of slop, regardless of the actual post tolerances, is in the photo below. ( sorry for the bad photography)
At the base of the post on the bridge plate, is a larger knurled circular section, with a corresponding larger hole in the base of the sleeve.
The old worn brass sleeve fits relatively snuggly into this section, more than acceptable and would suspect the old sleeve has wear. The new s/s sleeve is way to loose and sloppy in there, being at the base of the set up, this issue would be the main culprit contributing to my issue me thinks !
Col
Hello Col, you call it bad photography, I call it great :), It is actually a good pic.
The gear sleeve should have two holes for the pin, try both and see which feels better.
Sal
Hi Sal,
I originally tried that, but I just quickly tried the other hole again, there was a lot more slop. So the one I had it in is the tightest of
The two. I didn't fit it back in the reel, just felt by hand, that was enough to see which was already was in the "firmer" option hole.
You can actually see the movement on that bottom gear as you hold the bridge plate in your hand and put pressure on the sleeve.
I guess because there's no "bushing" or anything supporting the sleeve at the side plate, any movement at the base of the bridge will seem
huge, especially with hand on knob winding. I even went down to my factory, I have 4 other 113h's, all standard that I fish with, they do have some
play, but only a 1/3 of this one. I removed the standard handle and put this longer one of this reel, thinking that the longer handle made it feel sloppier,
that wasn't the case, they felt ok. As mentioned, the old brass sleeve feels less sloppier on the new double dog bridge..
Something is amiss.
Col
Quote from: milne on May 10, 2019, 11:29:40 AM
Hi Sal,
I originally tried that, but I just quickly tried the other hole again, there was a lot more slop. So the one I had it in is the tightest of
The two. I didn't fit it back in the reel, just felt by hand, that was enough to see which was already was in the "firmer" option hole.
You can actually see the movement on that bottom gear as you hold the bridge plate in your hand and put pressure on the sleeve.
I guess because there's no "bushing" or anything supporting the sleeve at the side plate, any movement at the base of the bridge will seem
huge, especially with hand on knob winding. I even went down to my factory, I have 4 other 113h's, all standard that I fish with, they do have some
play, but only a 1/3 of this one. I removed the standard handle and put this longer one of this reel, thinking that the longer handle made it feel sloppier,
that wasn't the case, they felt ok. As mentioned, the old brass sleeve feels less sloppier on the new double dog bridge..
Something is amiss.
Col
Hi Col,
That does not make sense at all on the bridge and the sleeve. They should fit just right. I have not had any complaint on those parts getting along. Have you tried to use the brass sleeve on the DD bridge? If the issue still happens, you might want to return the parts to the seller, and I will take a look at it when the seller gets them back.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
—Alan
Hi Alan,
Yes, as mentioned, the old brass sleeve is a firmer fit on the D/D bridge post than the new S/S sleeve.
When the sleeve is fitted to the bridge, with the locking pin in the sleeve, then with holding the bridge plate and gripping the sleeve down low to the bridge, you can feel the movement at the base and even here the slop when moving it side to side, if you follow what i'm saying.
I guess what I'm describing is in that last photo, the larger hole in the bottom of the sleeve to the base of the bridge.
I'll put it to one side at the minute, I'm down in Aussie, so it's near the cost of the parts in freight alone for me. I want to do one other 113h as well soon, so,I might just wait till then and try another set up. I believe its the sleeve milling, as the old brass one fits fine on the d/d bridge plate, so I may even try to shim it if possible, I'll see what I can do with it, but I'll compare when I order up for my second 113h.
Thanks Alan
Col
Quote from: milne on May 10, 2019, 07:16:56 AM
I understand that there has been the use of a shim under the sleeve to address this issue, but I can't seem to find any discussion anywhere from the searches I made. It looks to me that the hole for the pin in the sleeve would dictate whether a shim was necessary, as shimming would lift the sleeve up closer to the pin itself and reduce inward/outward movement of the handle assembly, and I guess it would help reduce overall slop, which is what I am seeing on the new S/S assembly comparing to the standard stock bridge there is definitely outward slop due to pin placement, much more than the stock one. However its the lateral movement of the sleeve on the bridge post which is markedly more than the standard bridge sleeve assembly.
Hi Col,
I can't believe you couldn't find any discussion of shimming the gear sleeve...this forum is polluted with sleeve slop posts. It seems to be one of the the biggest problem folks encounter while customizing Penns. It's also one of the easiest to remedy, although it sends most of us into mind control the first time dealing with it...HA! What feels like a huge amount of end play is most times
way smaller than it appears. What it takes to actually close that "gaping hole" will shock you. What can feel like 1/8th an inch of travel is actually only a few thousandths. Taking up that end play also makes the lateral movement feel tighter. The key is not to overdo it. You
do not want the sleeve tight...a few thousandths end play is required. After fixing one of these things you see how a few thousandths can make a huge difference. Just get a handful of shim washers and experiment. Washers from .002 to .010 can be used in combination to arrive at just what you need. 8)
Hi Mo,
I'll admit I'm not the sharpest tool when it comes to searching or playing on the computer ;D
I'll do some more searching tonight, maybe it's the words I'm using in the search feature. The " in-out movement on the sleeve, is fairly good on the pin hole I'm using, the other hole I
tried was way looser, it's a good option having a second option hole, i can see why there's two.
Randy has some options for aluminium spools which I'm going to use as well, which should give it a decent weight reduction which I'm keen to try
and some frame options for my second 113h.
Mo, I get you, when you mention only a few thou makes a big difference, cause that would be all it is and at the handle end that is really amplified.
I'm going to get my second 113h started as well, the only difference is that that one is an older external drag model, all I've ever done with that one was swap out to new drags. So I'm going to make up some bearing removal tools, as per Alan's tutorials and give both reels bearings the good once over, then order up the spools and frame and upgrade internals for my second one, while those parts are making there migration, I'll play around with "shimming" this first D/D assembly and see if I can improve it's slop......
Thanks MO, I will get there !!!!!!!!
Col
Quote from: milne on May 10, 2019, 11:41:00 PM
I'll do some more searching tonight, maybe it's the words I'm using in the search feature.
Yes...the search feature here is touchy. I've had searches come back a zero, then took out a word or two, and have a bunch of threads pop up!
Mo,
Got creative with the search function, the result, learning more about the issue and other fitting practices.
Greasy fingers and a lap top don't mix, as I have found to my detriment.....
Sometimes it's better to walk away and be patient and research ;)
Now doin the same with bearing servicing topic.
Thank you Sir........
Cheers
Col
Mo, the voice of reason !!!!!
Further to your patiently worded piece of advice on the search function,
Seek and thou shall find ( or something similar along those lines)
Managed to have a productive afternoon, the phone stayed quiet and my computer literacy has now come up a peg or two
from the depths of " Neandertholism" where it hovered a day or so ago ;D (not sure if that's a word or not, but certainly impressive all the same)
Stripped my second 113h down, bagged everything appropriately, then decided, to use the " Mo function" sorry I mean the search function properly
and came up with some methods of bearing removal.
So with bothe 113h's at hand and her indoors still out shopping, used the suggestion of bending the lip of the Penn tool, and managed to ease them out on
both tail plates, then, with another old suggestion, using a nail, filing the flat part down so it drops thru the centre of the bearing, held onto by my pliers
I got under the bearings and with minimal twisting, out they both popped.
Of course I would attempt the easier ones first, that's the kind of bloke I am ;D
Reading that the head plate pressed in bearings were sometimes more difficult, and sometimes some U-bute bearing pullers were needed in some instances, gave me a little shudder,,,, So, on wards I went, I used my tried and trusted pliers and nail that was successful on the tail plate bearings, at first a little bit of resistance was felt, but I carefully persisted and out they both popped with relative ease, maybe pure luck that over it's journey it was well lubed as not to have seized inside the cup, Don't care, was due some luck.........
One thing, and I'm not sure about this, but after the bagging of the parts, I found what looked like a washer, either brass or copper, it stumped me until I remember reading about shimming underneath the bearing for spool slop,,, perfect size and has the bearing imprint mark on one face, the little sucker must have jumped out and I probably missed it with the euphoria of the bearing popping out easily ;D
A second search of the forum revealed Sal's dentist like tools for removing the shield on the bearings,,, Brilliant idea, so I shall be visiting a few hardware
shops/ tool type shops and find myself a similar type tool so I can complete the bearing strip down.
Successful afternoon, and great wealth of information available on hand, with only a bit of computer skills required ;D
Col
There is a thread on here about a work around for the limited functionality of the site's search function - but I can't find it. ::) ;D
(Sorry, I couldn't resist that) Jurelometer explains how to do more specific searches using external search engines on this thread https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17305.0 (https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=17305.0)
Mike
Hi Mike,
My computer literacy today has improved four fold this weekend !
I'll give that a try.
I see they were saying that the specific search for the words you type in, may not come up for a few pages,
There lies my problem, An attention span that's barely lasts 10 minutes, and the info that comes up first, is dam interesting,
I forget what I originally searched for ;D
Col
Glad to hear things are coming together Col! Oh...and keep that grease off the keyboard! ;D
Hi all,
Currently have all 4 bearings removed from both of of my 113h projects.
But having a great deal of difficulty removing the bearing spring shield. I want to completely strip these bearings down in both reels,
for all intensive purposes they may very well be OK, but no real way of telling I guess till I strip them down.
I researched and read a couple of posts on the issue, I have tried a fish hook as recommended in one post, not with any joy with that method, so
I ordered a dental hook which I found off Ebay which should arrive next week, which may be easier to use. But they sure are tricky wee suckers
to remove,,, maybe it's just my tecnique, I have removed a few over my time, but on much larger bearings, the size of these Penn bearings arent
very conducive to fat fingers and tired old eyes !
Any trick or best practice to get these wee suckers out guys ???
Col
OK,
Put up my previous post a little too early.
Decided to give it one more try before my "dentist pick" arrived in the post,
Used a modified treble hook, a single sided razor blade and a illuminated magnifying glass,
I take my hat off to you guys doing this day in day out, while practice makes perfect, Patience to me seems to be the key.
One more set of bearings to strip down for my other 113h, but I'll wait for my tool to arrive, then get these little fella's cleaned out and re packed
and re installed.
A frustrating but satisfying wee task !
Col
I've been making a wee bit of progress,
I took Rudy's advice, (thank you), I decided to get an aluminium spool and it sure does make the whole package lighter and I think better
to fish with. Randy came thru with another identical set up and I decided to get a Tiburon frame for my wide while I was at it.
I luv the 113h size, its perfect for a lot of the fishing I do, so having two standard and one wide, I think that should cover the range.
I am going to trick out the insides of my other 113h and my wide with the same as my first one, d/dogs S/S gear etc etc, it adds to the set up costs of these reels, but I figure that they will last another lifetime, well after I pull up stumps and pass them on, and will sure give me some fun in the mean time.
I'm yet to resolve the handle slop issue completely, but will also be ordering some delrin washers along with the other internals to play with while assembling the other two 113's. The only other issue I have is a lack of free spool, or not like I expected, especially after doing the bearings as well, something else to tinker with.........
Col
Lookin' good !!
Great builds, Col! With maroon plates, the silver frame is by far my favorite. A member did a 6/0 thusly, and I was sold. You should be getting really good freespool- what did you put in the bearings?
John
Hi John, I completely stripped the bearing, soaked them, then re packed with grease.
I'm not to concerned at the minute, it's all sounding nice and tight, no noises. I used that 7 + 1 drag system on this one.
As mentioned, I've got to have a play back inside with a delrin washer and it seems even with the drag washers, I do have a lot of turns on the star drag
which I don't re call when it had the 5 stack system. but, it's looking really good now with that red spool and way lighter.
I know that I will end up doing a couple of 6/0's, I call it an addiction !!!!!
Col
If you want better free spool clean the grease out of the bearings and use some tsi321 or similar light oil. That should help greatly
Also clean the grease out of the gear sleeve and spool shaft and oil with TSI 321. Also polish the inside of the pinion gear & the spool shaft. By oiling everything it will have to be serviced more often as the oil will not last as long as the grease but that is the sacrifice for more freespool. Rudy
That's where I was going. You clearly have the service / build part down pat, so pulling screws off left side plate to squirt some oil in your open bearings every so often is easy-peasy- (bushing Penn's have a handy oiler port for that). Note, even so your free spool may differ from the chrome spool due to inertia of the extra mass. But it will be smooth as butta.
Addiction is right. If Tom comes out with 6/0 plates I will need to take out a second mortgage. I want to say it was Gobi King that built that sweet 6/0 but may be wrong.
John
Quote from: thorhammer on June 19, 2019, 02:25:44 PM
Addiction is right. If Tom comes out with 6/0 plates I will need to take out a second mortgage. I want to say it was Gobi King that built that sweet 6/0 but may be wrong.
John
[/quoteJohn, I guess we will have to start forming our lines at the mortgage company. ;D ;D Rudy
Thanks Guys, The beauty of this first one is to play with around with it and see what sort of results I get, then I'll have a clear idea how to set up
the next two. The oiling and open bearing idea, sounds like the go, I have no problem having to service them more regularly, gee, that's
therapy, plus a great learning curve...
Col