Settle in for a funny story as to how I ended up with three 209 reels, as this all got out of control pretty fast ;D
Recently I really started to think about trying out conventional reels, primarily to get a nice clicker and higher line capacity. I really like to work on older gear, and decided to look at older reels, and the Penn '09 series stood out to me. I asked around, posted a thread on the pierfishing California site, and started looking on eBay to see what sorts of models were affordable and common. I ended up deciding to go with a Penn 209 or 309 sounded like it would work for me, as the largest fish I tend to go for are striped bass and leopard shark, as well as bat rays. Rays pull lots of line, but the lower drag capability of the 209 isn't an issue so long as I play the fish. I remembered that I had a Penn Delmar 285 somewhere, but I really wanted a level wind due to joint pain in my hands.
So, I bid on some reels, made a few offers, and started reading up here after finding these forums. I asked my girlfriend to run by our storage unit while I was at work to try and dig out the Delmar, as well as some older poles and some other fishing gear. She calls me and says she found it, and a couple nicer poles, and was bringing it all home. "Perfect! Now I can get some casting practice in at least" I thought to myself. ;)
Meanwhile, I won an auction for a nice 209. Not five minutes later, I get a notification that a seller accepted my offer on another 209. Cool, I'll just refresh both of them.
I get home from work, and the poles are leaning in the corner of the kitchen. "Those are what you were looking for, right?" She says. I look them over, and other than an ugly stik GX2 6' medium casting, and a couple ultralight no-name poles, what do I see? A very nice burgundy Penn 209 on a Daiwa Sealine 7' medium action pole that I don't ever remember that we even had, or how we got:D "no, this isn't but it'll work" I tell her. I explain the differences between the Delmar and the 209, and how I already bought two more 209s that morning. She calls me crazy, and mentions that 31 year olds don't usually show signs of Alzheimer's disease so early.
So, now that I have one nice clean 209 ready to go, I spoiled it with 20# Berkley big game, and decided to get the hang of it. Meanwhile, the first of the two eBay 209s showed up, I paid $28.95 shipped and I'm very happy with it at that price, as it's in beautiful shape. It came spooled with wire line backed by heavy mono, which I pulled out.
First pics, as it came to me. I love the green handle and bright red sides :)
It all turned smooth, and the spool spun smooth but felt like it had been lubed with heavy oil or had old grease that had dried up partially. So, started teardown so I can begin cleaning it up. As expected, the grease inside was waxy and old, but there was enough oil everywhere that everything was in pretty good shape. I found leather drags, and a nice grey steel main gear. Also notable, was that every screw came out nice and easily, with the only trouble being a very tight bearing cap on the right hand side.
Funny enough, I've had this Penn wrench in my tackle box since high school, and this is the first time I've ever used it ;D
The gear sleeve has what looks like light scoring, or maybe old pitting on it, but it isn't enough to catch on a fingernail. Should I replace it? Only other thing I was planning on changing is to modern drags, and I've got an aluminum spool on the way.
Otherwise, all the small parts are soaking in PB blaster to make cleanup of the old grease easier. I rebuild older cast-iron VW distributors occasionally and find this works very well, simply rubbing the parts clean with a cloth is usually enough. Anything too stubborn gets a scotchbrite. I already cleaned the handle, sideplates, stand, and side rings with soapy water and they look gorgeous. More pictures of those tonight.
Quote from: Lingwendil on August 10, 2019, 02:58:25 PM
The gear sleeve has what looks like light scoring, or maybe old pitting on it, but it isn't enough to catch on a fingernail. Should I replace it?
That gear sleeve looks fine to me. Just add some new HT-100 drags and you'll be good to go. 8)
Don't forget the under Gear Washer. You can get this at the same place as the Drag Washers.
Grease everything with Cal's Grease
Mike
I've read a few places that some folks use an HT100 instead of the fiber washer, is that something I should be looking to do here? The cost is negligible.
I don't have any of Cal's grease, what do you guys think of using SuperLube? It's silicone and Teflon based, I've read of plenty of folks using it on drags. I can't justify the expense of buying a tub of cals right now.
There are a lot of experts and pros on this board, Ling —
They are a quiet majority. Likely more than any other tackle repair and upgrade site in the world.
Mike is one of them. They generally only say a few words — but when they do, the words are absolutely accurate, tried and tested for years on thousands of reels, and their advice just works every time.
Yes, other lubes may/will work OK — but Cal's is the best.
If you would like to try some — let me know, and I will send you enough for a few reels, N/C.
You are doing such a professional job on those 209's — why start experimenting?
Good work on those reels!
Best,
Fred
Pm sent :)
I'll use the good stuff. No sense cutting corners.
On the way, Anthony —
You should receive it Monday or Tuesday.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: Lingwendil on August 10, 2019, 05:00:55 PM
I've read a few places that some folks use an HT100 instead of the fiber washer, is that something I should be looking to do here?
That's your cue Sal.
-steve
Looking at parts, and I think I know what I need. For drag washer sets I think HT100 is plenty, I'm not looking to hot-rod these too much. I'll probably wait to order parts until the second reel comes in, but I think this is what I need so far. Is there a compelling reason to go with carbontex on a reel that still has the original gears and frame? It seems the main advantage would be smoother drag and better longevity. I don't plan to fish this reel very hard/often so just want to do what makes sense. I'm assuming going for the HT100 kit that includes the steel washers is the best value? I don't see much talk of reusing the original brass washers here, as mine do look to be in pretty good shape.
Once I get the other reel opened up I'll add the stuff that one needs.
I want the clamp for sure on at least one of the reels, and all I currently have on hand is the studs for one of them.
Still curious about using HT100 instead of the fiber washer.
Looking good! Can't wait to see the finished product!
The clamp screws are standard 10-24 screws Lowes has then in Stainless steel including the wing nuts. If the head has to have the edge ground down use a Dremel.
Heck, I may even have those somewhere, I didn't even think to look. Thanks 8)
Quote from: Lingwendil on August 12, 2019, 07:59:25 PM
Still curious about using HT100 instead of the fiber washer.
The point of swapping the undergear washer with a drag washer is to get another drag washer in the stack. A drag washer makes a better drag washer than a thrust bearing (the stock undergear washer), but a thrust bearing makes a better thrust bearing than a drag washer. Funny how that works out :) Since you are not pushing the drag, I would definitely stick with the stock part, or if you want to get fancy, go to delrin.
Here is the summary, but read the entire thread for more details:
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=27295.msg313604#msg313604
Switching to properly lubed carbon fiber drag washers is the most important upgrade. It doesn't matter if they are HT100 or Carbontex. Getting the full set with steel washers is not a bad idea, if you are currently running brass.
-J
I've found that the stock under-gear fiber washer usually doesn't spin against the AR cog, but the main gear spins pretty well sittin on topa the stock washer. Usually, under drag pressure, the AR cog's "teeth" bite into the washer a little and hold it still. It's only a $1.00 part, but, you could flat-lap one side of it with 1000-1200 grit wet/dry and reuse it. Hard to beat delrin as a thrust bearing washer, though.
Quote from: George6308 on August 12, 2019, 08:19:31 PM
The clamp screws are standard 10-24 screws Lowes has then in Stainless steel including the wing nuts. If the head has to have the edge ground down use a Dremel.
Valuable info. here, thanks George.
This might be off the wall and probably not relative to the subject of under gear washers in conventionals, but I put a thin carbontex washer on top of a delrin under-spool washer on an old spinfisher to see if it would improve line lay. It accomplished the purpose and the drag was super smooth (used it for stripers). But then that's on a spinner.
Just out of curiousty --would there be a downside to using a thin cf on top of a thrush washer in the 209 or other conventional if it didn't otherwise raise the gear up enough to cause a problem?
Quote from: Gfish on August 13, 2019, 08:45:59 PM
I've found that the stock under-gear fiber washer usually doesn't spin against the AR cog, but the main gear spins pretty well sittin on topa the stock washer.
Good observation. I've wondered about that and noticed the marks on the underside of the washer.
Quote from: wfjord on August 13, 2019, 09:56:45 PM
This might be off the wall and probably not relative to the subject of under gear washers in conventionals, but I put a thin carbontex washer on top of a delrin under-spool washer on an old spinfisher to see if it would improve line lay. It accomplished the purpose and the drag was super smooth (used it for stripers). But then that's on a spinner.
Just out of curiousty --would there be a downside to using a thin cf on top of a thrush washer in the 209 or other conventional if it didn't otherwise raise the gear up enough to cause a problem?
[/quote
Sounds like a plan, Stan. The thrust washer might provide some support for the cf.
Quote from: wfjord on August 13, 2019, 09:56:45 PM
This might be off the wall and probably not relative to the subject of under gear washers in conventionals, but I put a thin carbontex washer on top of a delrin under-spool washer on an old spinfisher to see if it would improve line lay. It accomplished the purpose and the drag was super smooth (used it for stripers). But then that's on a spinner.
Just out of curiousty --would there be a downside to using a thin cf on top of a thrush washer in the 209 or other conventional if it didn't otherwise raise the gear up enough to cause a problem?
Sticking a drag washer on top of a thrust washer makes the drag washer a less effective drag washer, and the thrust washer a less effective thrust washer. One of many issues for purposes illustration: If you bring an operating drag washer into direct contact with the thrust washer, you are going to heat up the thrust washer. Delrin gets very squishy once you get close to 250F, oand max short term operating temp is around 210.
At light clamping loads, lots of combinations of materials might work OK, but once you get into bigger reels with higher drag settings, you will want the braking system to be using braking materials and surface finishes that have the proper static and dynamic coefficient of friction for the clamping force range applied by the drag star/ lever, and that will not scratch up, warp, or degrade under the heat of braking. Keeping the thrust washer out of the mix will help.
Lots of threads on this topic.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on August 14, 2019, 08:40:08 PM
Sticking a drag washer on top of a thrust washer makes the drag washer a less effective drag washer, and the thrust washer a less effective thrust washer. One of many issues for purposes illustration: If you bring an operating drag washer into direct contact with the thrust washer, you are going to heat up the thrust washer. Delrin gets very squishy once you get close to 250F, oand max short term operating temp is around 210.
At light clamping loads, lots of combinations of materials might work OK, but once you get into bigger reels with higher drag settings, you will want the braking system to be using braking materials and surface finishes that have the proper static and dynamic coefficient of friction for the clamping force range applied by the drag star/ lever, and that will not scratch up, warp, or degrade under the heat of braking. Keeping the thrust washer out of the mix will help.
Lots of threads on this topic.
-J
Jurelometer, thanks for that info.
EDIT:(I'm re-wording my post here)
So with bigger reels it's more important to have a good drag washer below the gear?
If the old fiber thrust washer is replaced by a delrin washer, does the delrin function best as a thrust washer or a drag washer... or both?
(The reel I was referring to that I added a cf on top of a delrin washer is a little 714 that I wouldn't be using for fish that would generate that much heat... although I may be tempted to put it to the test.:) )
IMO, the delrin makes a great thrust washer, but I didn't know about the 250F-squishy thing. Perhaps it's best, and the most fun, to come up with ideas, then do some real world testing. I know for me, I'm almost always 1 or 2 unforseen issues short of my improvment ideas working like I thought they would...
Quote from: wfjord on August 14, 2019, 10:15:03 PM
Quote from: jurelometer on August 14, 2019, 08:40:08 PM
Sticking a drag washer on top of a thrust washer makes the drag washer a less effective drag washer, and the thrust washer a less effective thrust washer. One of many issues for purposes illustration: If you bring an operating drag washer into direct contact with the thrust washer, you are going to heat up the thrust washer. Delrin gets very squishy once you get close to 250F, oand max short term operating temp is around 210.
At light clamping loads, lots of combinations of materials might work OK, but once you get into bigger reels with higher drag settings, you will want the braking system to be using braking materials and surface finishes that have the proper static and dynamic coefficient of friction for the clamping force range applied by the drag star/ lever, and that will not scratch up, warp, or degrade under the heat of braking. Keeping the thrust washer out of the mix will help.
Lots of threads on this topic.
-J
Jurelometer, thanks for that info.
EDIT:(I'm re-wording my post here)
So with bigger reels it's more important to have a good drag washer below the gear?
If the old fiber thrust washer is replaced by a delrin washer, does the delrin function best as a thrust washer or a drag washer... or both?
(The reel I was referring to that I added a cf on top of a delrin washer is a little 714 that I wouldn't be using for fish that would generate that much heat... although I may be tempted to put it to the test.:) )
The delrin replacement is a true thrust washer (technically a plain thrust bearing). There are actually a few reel models out there that use delrin for drag washers, but only in situations calling for lighter settings and typically shorter runs. Delrin has a low coefficient of friction, so it is hard to get a lot of drag out of it.
At the risk of re-re-repeating myself :), the best thing to use for a thrust washer is a thrust washer. Thrust washers are optimized to provide a bearing interface (smooth and aligned) for rotating flat surfaces. A drag washer is optimized to turn motion into heat at a consistent ratio of dynamic to static friction across a range of temperatures. Generally speaking more friction is better in a drag washer, and it doesn't matter as much if it compresses a bit, and is fragile around the edges. So different material tradeoffs are made.
As drag setting, speed and distance goes up, more heat is generated by the drag, and more force is placed on the drive train in a star drag. Therefore, a properly engineered system becomes more important. Swapping in unrelated parts that happen to fit and have some similar functions becomes more risky.
Folks (including some of our expert repair people) that replace the thrust washer with a drag washer are doing so in order to get more drag from the same amount of clamping force . More drag for the same clamping force can help make the drag maintain smoothness at higher settings, so the expectation is to gain more from the extra drag washer than is lost by giving up the thrust washer. From what I have read, it seems to work pretty well with greased drags, but the drag washers will not last as long as thrust bearings on some reels, as they can get chewed up by the dogs and ratchet, especially when the drag is cranked down at higher settings.
Look at the post I referenced above for a discussion on the benefits and drawbacks of undergear drag washers vs. other choices. We are getting into a rehash at this point, and the other thread has varying viewpoints from several of our experts. I am trying to represent several viewpoints, but I can see my bias leaking in a bit.
-J
Sorry Dave, I removed my answer. I just realized his question was directed to you.
Sal
Second ebay reel came in. Looks in pretty good shape, little more corrosion on the chrome than the first. Darker plastic, and the crossbar are the style that inserts into the sideplates. One has a crack on the outside edges of the mounting holes. Bright steel main gear, with steel drag metal washers. Leather drag washers that were bone dry (the whole reel was other than the level wind) and stuck together pretty good.
Continued-
The spool is much lighter than the first reel had.
Any idea on approximate year?
So far it looks like I just need drag washers and a fiber washer for reel #2, but I think I might want to replace that sideplate with the crack in it. Are those sideplates the same as the more common reels with the regular crossbars? It's a very secure fit, even with that crack.
Back to reel #1-
Everything cleaned up great! The brass all looks very nice with minor staining.
I would replace the cracked ring. They are available. Replace the entire drag washer set with a complete replacement HT-100 set including the newer stainless steel drag washers Penn part set 6-155.
I would also give some thought in replacing the metal 29-209 spool with the newer 29L-209 Aluminium spool. As to the washer on top,of the gear it's your choice, however the Delrin washer is not going to give you much improvement.
That guy wasn't kidding around. It looks like about 100 pound test Ashaway braided nylon line. Probably less than 100 yards of it. Is the levelwind carriage wallowed out, or was it all just wishful thinking?
-steve
Quote from: wfjord on August 15, 2019, 03:45:36 AM
Lingwendil,
Sorry for the slight detour.
No worries 8)
Quote from: George6308 on August 15, 2019, 03:50:12 AM
I would replace the cracked ring. They are available. Replace the entire drag washer set with a complete replacement HT-100 set including the newer stainless steel drag washers Penn part set 6-155.
I would also give some thought in replacing the metal 29-209 spool with the newer 29L-209 Aluminium spool. As to the washer on top,of the gear it's your choice, however the Delrin washer is not going to give you much improvement.
I'll get new drags/washers for both. I already have an aluminum spool that's going on reel #1, and I may just set up #2 for pier (underhand cast away from the pilings only really) fishing, so the original spool will do for now. I'll keep an eye out for a cheap used one, the aluminum spool I have was $12 shipped, can't beat that :)
Is the side ring the same part number at mystic parts? Or do I need to put out feelers for used ones? I don't see multiple versions listed for them.
Quote from: oc1 on August 15, 2019, 05:36:54 AM
That guy wasn't kidding around. It looks like about 100 pound test Ashaway braided nylon line. Probably less than 100 yards of it. Is the levelwind carriage wallowed out, or was it all just wishful thinking?
-steve
Level wind looks in great condition, actually. The guide isn't bent, and no unnatural wear. Maybe it was replaced a while back? I like the line, might keep it for a display reel at some point.
I've attached my cart for now, I'll be grabbing stainless wingnuts and hex nuts for the clamps locally, but otherwise this looks like all I need otherwise is a side ring. If I need to grab a side ring somewhere else I'll go ahead and order the parts from mystic today.
After looking at your grocery list, Ling —
Another approach I use often — but that most might think is terrible...
Buy a new 209 from Wal-Mart for $59.99 + tax, free shipping.
It comes with HT-100's, SS drag discs, clamp, aluminum spool, fiber washer, etc...
Rob the parts you need — then you have around 74 new parts left over for your other 209's as they need a part.
This wouldn't be for collector shelf-princess reels — but for reels that you intend to use.
All parts fit.
Best,
Fred
Yup ! "Parts is parts " !
After handling a modern production 209 recently I wasn't all that impressed. It didn't feel as smooth, and I'm accumulating spare parts for every hobby I have as it is... I think I'll keep an eye out for a lightly used one locally, but otherwise I'm happy just ordering the bits I need for now.
I've changed my mind on the parts order, and will go for a set of carbontex and a set of HT100 for these, reel #1 (green handle) will get the carbontex. I hear good things, so for a few dollars difference why not. Also added a small bottle of corrosionX as well, since I'm out of oil anyway (other than Ballistol) so I may as well. Still thinking of the side ring issue- if the parts that mystic sells wont work as a replacement I'll go ahead and order the parts soon.
Mystic parts are the same and will fit.
Just added one to the order and placed it! Now we wait. 8)
Parts came in! Even with economy shipping that was fast!
Dried any residual oil off as I went, and greased as I went, applying oil as needed, and on the threads of each screw to keep corrosion away. I was prepared for a struggle, but really my main trouble was keeping the parts all in place while I got the bridge assembly back on.
A small jar worked well to hold everything up while getting the screws all started. Gave it all a final tighten, added oil to the oil points, then adjusted everything.
This thing is gorgeous now. The carbontex drags feel awesome just by moving the spool by hand. This is the nicest piece of gear I own now, just needs a nice rod to go with it!
On to reel #2 tomorrow.
Nice work and a nice looking reel.
Great job !!
That maroon and chrome combination is very nice , good job !
Excellent work!
The purposeful weak link in the L/W assembly is the nylon white idler gear inside the tail-plate side.
The beauty of this design is that in case of an issue — this sacrificial part will protect the other much more expensive parts of the reel and L/W assembly from damage — and maybe an angler's finger also...
In the earliest Penn LW reels — this part was kind of a more unflexible Bakelite.
Unless this part appears extremely new and solid — I generally just replace it when doing a service.
Eliminates comebacks — and more importantly, keeps the fisherman fishing.
One time, while having a dental procedure by a specialist Dentist — we started talking about fishing reels (he talked while I listened with a mouth full of junk). Come to find out, he had a 5 gallon bucket of 209 LW's up at his cabin that he used for trolling. They were all non-operational — and he would just buy a couple more new ones every 3 years, or so. He brought them to me — and said if I could fix (2) for him — I could have the rest of the bucket.
After inspecting the 14 or 15 reels — every one just needed a basic service, a new pawl, and the nylon idler gear. Sold all of them after restoring to new — that paid for my dental deductible.
These 109's, 9's, 209's, and 309's are solid and reliable performers.
Best,
Fred
Nice job! not bad for your first reel project.
I really like these reels, but can't stand the lever line mechanism, could really be finicky at times.
I own a couple of new sets of 9, 109 and 10, eventually I will be making something from stainless steel on my lathe to remove the LV on the ones I would use.
Great work!
Sal
Looks like we brought another one to the Darkside...😱 Good job brother. Bill
Back in the spring I cleaned up a 209 and a couple 309s for my next door neighbor. Never cared for the 309, although I have my dad's old burgundy one.
But I do like the 209 --might need to add one to my reel family some day :)
Quote from: Alto Mare on August 18, 2019, 04:09:05 PM
Nice job! not bad for your first reel project.
I really like these reels, but can't stand the lever line mechanism, could really be finicky at times.
I own a couple of new sets of 9, 109 and 10, eventually I will be making something from stainless steel on my lathe to remove the LV on the ones I would use.
Great work!
Sal
I've been thinking about ways to plug the holes in the rings after removing the levelwind. It would be nice if there was a good fix available for that.
W.
Would a thin chunk of stainless shim stock, under the ring, in that spot work ? You could "glue" it to the back side of the ring with RTV, or even super glue.
Quote from: Crow on August 18, 2019, 09:15:00 PM
Would a thin chunk of stainless shim stock, under the ring, in that spot work ? You could "glue" it to the back side of the ring with RTV, or even super glue.
Thanks... I've considered that. I've never used RTV and don't know anything about it other than I believe it's a type of silicone. I might need to experiment with it. Is it easily removable without buggering up anything in case I wanted to reinstall the levelwind for some reason?
I have some JB Weld Marine Epoxy that I've used successfully on fly reels in years past and it should certainly work, but probably not easily removable. I don't trust longevity the longevity as much.
I was initially thinking of some sort of plug that would snap ink, perhaps made of delrin. I've seen delrin used on musical instruments, particularly wind instruments (another of my hobbies).
Quote from: wfjord on August 18, 2019, 07:41:29 PM
I've been thinking about ways to plug the holes in the rings after removing the levelwind. It would be nice if there was a good fix available for that.
Think of them as drain holes. You may be able to grease the main gear from there too.
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on August 19, 2019, 05:41:31 AM
Quote from: wfjord on August 18, 2019, 07:41:29 PM
I've been thinking about ways to plug the holes in the rings after removing the levelwind. It would be nice if there was a good fix available for that.
Think of them as drain holes. You may be able to grease the main gear from there too.
-steve
Well, I didn't think of that! Easier to hose out the insides, too, but probably drain better if add a hole to the side plates.
When folks ask me about removing the L/W mechanisms on a 209 — I generally advise just picking up a decent Jigmaster.
The difference between 3.75 and 4.00 gears is not noticeable.
No open holes that way.
Just a thought —
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on August 19, 2019, 06:10:39 PM
When folks ask me about removing the L/W mechanisms on a 209 — I generally advise just picking up a decent Jigmaster.
The difference between 3.75 and 4.00 gears is not noticeable.
No open holes that way.
Just a thought —
Best,
Fred
Thanks. Good point.
Yes as Fred has mentioned that would be a good point, but not if you're comparing drags.
The jigmaster is able to be pushed over 25lbs when well equipped.
The 209 wouldn't do better than 10 lbs with the tiny 5-155 gear and 13-155 pinion.
Of course if you're not concerned about horsepower, that would definitely do it.
Sal
Ready for reassembly, with minor issue. Since the crossbars have a reduced-diameter protrusion and actually stick into the sides, they won't fit into the new side ring. I'll need to ream out the holes or hunt down an old style. Not sure what to do. Maybe I'll just run the original one for now? Even with the crack it fits nice and snug.
Either way I'll get started on it tomorrow night.
So much for finishing up last night ;D
Got #2 back together. I put the original side ring on for now, until I decide how to handle the replacement part having holes too small. I really don't like drilling holes larger on Chrome parts, as they can end up flaking. This thing isn't likely to be used for anything heavy, so this will do for now. Everything fits nice and snug and doesn't flex any more than reel #1.
Love that orange handle 8)
Pics continued-
Now that these two are done, I may see if someone wants to trade me reels on the third I have, I'll get up pics soon. It's another 209 with a creme colored handle. Anybody got an extra no. 9, 10, 210, 309, or 350 that they want to get rid of? ;D
Quote from: Lingwendil on August 23, 2019, 02:34:34 AM
(https://alantani.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=29179.0;attach=75800;image)
I like the cat contemplating the reel...
.
Nice work on those level winds,they turned out great!
I've got a Mag 10 I'm willing to trade, but not really interested in a 209. Got anything else for trade?
No, unfortunately ;D
I'm keeping an eye out for an affordable one that's not too crusty.
Quote from: Lingwendil on August 26, 2019, 02:31:19 PM
No, unfortunately ;D
I'm keeping an eye out for an affordable one that's not too crusty.
If you're interested, I've got a nice condition Mag 10 you can have for the cost of shipping.
PM me your shipping info.
You're a saint! PM sent!
Quote from: Lingwendil on August 26, 2019, 02:44:53 PM
You're a saint! PM sent!
LoL, far from sainthood..
Just paying it forward. I've received so much help from many members here, I'm just trying to do my share. The Mag 10 is a great reel, you'll love it!