I am getting stuff together to go thought my g235f and have a few questions.
I assume that I should order the carbontex washers instead of the Ht100 stuff? And do I need a different washer for under the gear?
I was going to get the abec 7 hybrid ceramic bearings from Boca unless I should get something different? Should they be orange seals or metal? They come dry lubed, should I squeeze a few drops of light oil around the seal? Or rip the seals out and go open?
Is TSI301 the oil to get and should it be in a can and use a syringe or aerosol?
I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Should I hunt down the Yamaha stuff instead?
TIA for the help!
-JOHN
From everything I have read and see in the drag washers..
HT100 & Carbontex are basically the same washer made by same manufacturer (correct me if Im wrong here guys)...
So go with whats easily available.
Smoothdrags & Dawn will cover you with the best option...
& yes always upgrade the 'Under Washer' at the same time...
She has Cals drag grease also, highly Recommended on those washers!!!!
The #7 Ceramic is a personal choice..
IMO better casting, longer life, easier to clean etc...
But if your not doing a lot of distance casting, its just an upgrade that has other benefits.
Most #5 S/S will have almost the same qualities if you service them as often...
If you have TSI its thin enough to get in the cover and lube the bearing just fine, as are most thinner oils.. Removing the cover is optional.
Unless you opt for Open Bearings, taking that Orange cover off isnt all its cracked up to be..
I find them easily bent or damaged and almost impossible to get back on AND FUNCTION as a seal!!!
Dawn doesnt even carry them any more due to this issue... She may have a few odd sizes left???? (I bought all the rest!! LMAO). Just kidding......
I always remove at least ONE cover to make the next clean & lube easier on myself..
The Yamaha seems to be Alans preferred grease..
I have used LubriMatic automotive Marine, for 6 years, have had very good results.
Running out and want to get whats being used and tested here....
Had some StaLube (in 3 oz cartridge) and the oil separates and runs out while sitting on my bench????
Not only makes a mess, but Im sure its trash in the few bearings I did with it!!! (mad).
So be cautious what you get!!!!
I have the 3 oz grease gun and just ordered 6 tubes of the Evenrude Marine grease (Out for deliver today UPS)... :-)
Was easy & Fast New York to Calif - Monday and should deliver today (Fri)..
Reading the Lubricant threads here is why I made that choice...
I dont want to hand pack the 3oz cartridge every time it runs dry!!!!
I work inside my home!! Yikes !!!
The synthetic grease would probably be just fine if you NEVER EVER do saltwater....
.
TY for the help!
I will dump the Mobil one grease. I have the shimano drag stuff and I think from the lube threads that i skimmed over, i could also use that to grease the reel? If not i should be able to get the yamaha stuff local.
I will get the washers from Smoothdrag ( I think Carbontex is what they have) and grease them lightly.Probably get some Cals as well.
Any idea on what upgrade washer i should get from Smoothdrag for under the gear?
Bearings still a question. I will get the #7 ceramics. Any advise on getting the orange seal and pulling them to run open with TSI301 or Metal shields and just adding a few drops of ReelX?
TIA, JOHN
John, just my opinion..
If the price is the same, the Orange Seal is easier to get open!!!!
I always open (and leave open) at least one (as I said)......
You can use the TSI on both Ceramic & S/S..
Alan says it stays on much longer then the other Spool oils we use, Oust, ReelX, etc.....
The Cals & Shimano Drag grease is expensive for General lube & Salt proofing, plus non-spool bearing packing....
If you fish Saltwater a good "Marine" Grease is highly recommended... :-)
LubriMatic can be found at many Auto parts stores...
Do Not, I repeat DO NOT get the "" STA LUBE"" brand..
I just picked some up a week or so ago, lighter 'Aqua color' and the oils separated as it sat on my bench in the Grease gun!!! Worthless stuff!!!
Dawn at Smoothdrags sells the Carbontex in sets,,,, (normally)..
That includes the Under Washer....
If your not sure give her a call or Email....
Best of luck..
No matter what you use in the end, doing the Pre-use service will be well worth the effort & be a big improvement....
.
OK, Thanks.
And yes it is all salt and nothing pre fish about it. Have been fishing this reel since early 90s.
OS 357 as for the washer under the main gear just ask dawn for the washer and she will set you right up. A very noticeable difference with the upgraded drags, awesome. Used the 235 for many years and caught a lot of gt with it surf casting. Aloha rodent
Thanks everyone!
Finally got to this reel and it went smooth. It didn't fish this well when it was new. Main bearings were replaced with #7 ceramic hybrids from boca, lubed with TSI301 and left open. Drags are carbontex w/cal's from smooth drags.
Only thing is it had about 3 - 5 seconds of freespool before and about 10 - 15 seconds after. I wonder if that TSI301 doesn't reall work that well on ceramics? Still about a 300% increase, but nothing like the free spool numbers i see on here.
-JOHN
did you clean the inside of your pinion gear?
Quote from: alantani on January 05, 2012, 01:51:54 AM
did you clean the inside of your pinion gear?
Yeah, Qtips and carb cleaner. Actually removed everything from the reel that comes apart and cleaned it. Nothing was really bad at all.
I just checked it and after a week it is down to 8 secs of FS. I also expected some noise from the ceramics, but they actually sound like they have grit in them. I think i will take it apart again and blow out with the carb cleaner, re dip and clean the pinion gear again.
If that doesn't work maybe i'll order some SS #5 bearings and see if that is the issue.
Thanks!
lots of good info......
Note, Newell's freespools will usually be lower than other reels due the lighter spools. It's physics that I cannot explain.
I believe ceramics work best dry is is commonly used in fresh water applications. I believe someone here did a test and noted that lubed was indeed slower than dry.
Hello OS357,
Newells should have an excellent freespool time if everything is in place correctly. By any chance, when you are totally done reassembling the reel, did you make sure that the spool has a little side to side play? If the bearing caps are too tight, that can definately affect the freespool time. This is where it gets interesting....you may have to play with the shims in the bearing cap to get the spool aligned properly.
Hope this helps.... :)
Quote from: Bryan Young on January 05, 2012, 04:45:30 AM
Note, Newell's freespools will usually be lower than other reels due the lighter spools. It's physics that I cannot explain.
I believe ceramics work best dry is is commonly used in fresh water applications. I believe someone here did a test and noted that lubed was indeed slower than dry.
Thanks Bryan,
I think I understand that. The same thing that makes it cast longer with something pulling on the line would make it stop faster with nothing spinning it. So normally it is a rotating mass vs. friction drag issue. But, with the reel in front of me the drag curve increases significantly towards the end of the spin. As opposed to continuing to spin to a gradual stop.
The bearings were lubed with TSI301 which I think is a dry lube. I really don't know what it is or how it works. I think of dry lubes as bonding to the surface filling the voids in and reducing friction in the process. However If you think about those sleeve bearings in the roller guides that are "permanently lubed". When you take them out they always have those streaks and/or grooves in them. So I hope the TSI301 is better than that. I am not really tracking on why a material that is about impervious to corrosion would be better in a fresh water application.
-JOHN
Quote from: franky on January 05, 2012, 09:03:12 PM
Hello OS357,
Newells should have an excellent freespool time if everything is in place correctly. By any chance, when you are totally done reassembling the reel, did you make sure that the spool has a little side to side play? If the bearing caps are too tight, that can definately affect the freespool time. This is where it gets interesting....you may have to play with the shims in the bearing cap to get the spool aligned properly.
Hope this helps.... :)
Franky,
That is a really good question. Over the years I have played with that but don't recall it ever making much of a difference. So I have been screwing the handle side cap in all the way and snugging the other side up until I could not notice any play. Then I would back off a little on that clicker side. Is there a better procedure?
I will play around with it this weekend.
Thanks, -JOHN
John, sounds like you got the procedure down.
TSI301 is a wet micro layer lube. It will bond a micro layer on the metal.
Hope your playing around goes well and let us how it turns out.
Update on this newell with FS issues.
Nine days ago I removed both bearings and pinion gear. Cleaned them with carb cleaner and soaked all in TSI301. After reassembly, it had 25 seconds of FS. Fast forward until today it looks like 12 - 15 seconds.
I guess i will order some SS bearings and let everyone know how that works out.
-JOHN
Hello everyone. This is my first time posting.
Is there any problem interchanging G235f parts with P235f or S235s parts?.
I purchased a bunch of parts to put together one reel.
Bluesbubba
If the P series is an older one with a 4 stack drag some parts will not interchange well but they are all the same parts if not a 4 stack drag.
For the most part when Newell changed the Cs and Ss it is not a change in the drive system but in the frame bolting arrangement and bearing cups and caps.
You can put most of those parts in a 300 and 400 series as well. If you look at the schematics that are on this site and look at the part numbers you will understand. The 200 series has the same gears and drags at the 400. Very robust little reels.
Quote from: bluesbubba link=topic=2973.msg 62882#msg 62882 date=1370126726
Hello everyone. This is my first time posting.
Is there any problem interchanging G235f parts with P235f or S235s parts?.
I purchased a bunch of parts to put together one reel.
Bluesbubba
The only difference is the Jack Handle "D" & "S" series have plastic of Graphite knobs. The "P" series has S S. It is possible to have a problem with the 4 stack to 3 Stack Bridge Sleeve. At the base of the Bridge Post some are angled & some square cut.
Mike