In 1962 Shakespeare began manufacture of the charcoal gray 2068 Sport Wonder for introduction into the 1963 market place. Later in 1963 Shakespeare also introduced the maroon 2062, which eventually became the 2068's successor. Both reels are basically the same size. Many vintage reel historians and collectors consider the 2068 Sport Wonder as one of the finest open face spinning reels ever manufactured in the United States, especially in its day. It was short lived so, while not really rare, they are somewhat difficult to find in good condition. Shakespeare ended production of the 2068 in 1967. Here's a look at one, an EG, i.e. 1964.
While in excellent condition it obviously hadn't been cleaned in quite awhile. This is what it looked like when I opened it up.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_50_11_309791578.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_50_08_30978513.jpeg)
I took it all apart and did my usual lacquer thinner soak for all the unpainted metal parts. All the painted metal and plastic parts were cleaned with Original White Goop and then washed in warm water with Dawn. Here all the parts are clean and ready to assemble.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_50_55_3098065.jpeg)
As usual, before my hands get greasy, I install the bail and trip lever on the rotor cup. The 2068 has a tungsten carbide line roller that really does roll.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_50_59_309821959.jpeg)
Shakespeare bail springs are a little touchy to get into the correct position. The spring has a double right angle hook on the outer end that has to in the correct position in the notch in the bail arm before installing the bail screw. You have to start the bail screw a thread or two and rotate the bail arm stop over the stop block on the rotor, push the bail arm down against the spring housing and then tighten the bail screw. Usually you have to use something thin like an eXacto knife to position the spring end back into the groove in the bail screw so that the bail screw will tighten correctly. It can get a little tedious at times. Once the bail arm is installed I check the bail to make sure it lines up perfectly. I bend or adjust it if need be, install it and then install the trip lever and spring. Once everything works perfectly I set the rotor aside to install later. BTW, I lubricate all my bail springs with ArmorAll. I never use oil or grease because they collect dirt and gum up the bail spring after awhile.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_50_59_309811617.jpeg)
Now, while my hands are still clean, I install the drag washers in the spool and put the handle together. The 2068 has the normal Shakespeare 6 washer drag stack with three leather washers that are to be oiled.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_05_309861036.jpeg)
Time to install the spool click dog and spring.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_08_309872378.jpeg)
Now I'll install the anti-reverse lever, dog, spring and mechanism into the body. From this point on all lubing is, my favorite, Super Lube grease and synthetic oil.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_01_309831837.jpeg)
Now that the anti-reverse parts are in place it's time to install the steel pinion worm gear. The 2068 has the normal ball bearing configuration that is retained with an internal split ring. The bearing has steel races, and plastic shields that are easy to remove. It was easy to clean and relube the inside of the bearing and reinstall the shields. The pinion is supported at the rear by a bronze oilite bushing.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_02_30984815.jpeg)
With the pinion and bearing in place it's time to install the rotor cup.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_05_309851471.jpeg)
The main gear goes in next. The anti-reverse ratchet gear is a separate piece and replaceable. There is also a brass shim washer between the ratchet gear and main gear handle bushing. The handle bushing is steel.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_09_309801716.jpeg)
The next step is to install the main shaft. The under spool washer is leather. The 2068 has a robust oscillation mechanism. The oscillation block and arm is quite stout and somewhat unique. There is also a small brass transfer gear on the main gear shaft that will operate an oscillation gear that is positioned in the side plate.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_12_309891372.jpeg)
There's a oilite bushing in the side plate that supports the end of the main gear shaft. That is an interesting and quality attribute. There is a brass shim washer and small bushing that fit on the stud on the oscillation gear.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_12_30989449.jpeg)
With the oscillation gear in place it's time to install the side plate, making sure the stud is positioned in the slot on the arm/block.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_17_309912424.jpeg)
There are two oil ports with screws, one for the main gear/handle shaft and one for the bearing/pinion area. It is time to install them, the spool, drag knob and handle.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_17_309911967.jpeg)
All done! A high quality light size Shakespeare spinning reel from the mid '60s, the 2068 Sport Wonder.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_20_309932114.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_20_309931381.jpeg)
And, for you Chester, and anyone else that might be curious or interested. It weighs in at 11.6 oz.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/30/17004_13_12_19_8_51_22_309951511.jpeg)
Great write-up !
Excellently engineered reel --excellent tutorial -- excellent review, Tommy!
Thanks!
Best,
Fred
That 2068 looks to be a much more robust reel than the 2065. I'm glad so many folks greased those bails years ago. It makes for a fantastic buy when the bail hardly moves, and the problem is so easy to fix, just as long as you don't allow that spring to put you in "mind control". Thanks for the peek inside Tom. 8)
Great tutorial, Tommy. Learn something every day on this site. That's really my first look at a 2068. For some reason I thought the 2068 and 2065 were the same reel, not so.
Great work Tommy as usual.
Greg
beautiful... if you only had a main like this for your Mepps Transformer ;D
Super look at a super reel. Just oozes quality and durability. So much to remind one of the earlier set of bigger Sea Wonders.
Frank
Quote from: festus on December 15, 2019, 05:23:30 PM
Great tutorial, Tommy. Learn something every day on this site. That's really my first look at a 2068. For some reason I thought the 2068 and 2065 were the same reel, not so.
Same here.
Just finished cleaning and lubing my 2068. Reel was not used much, close to new condition. Original 1960's grease. Amazing how smooth these old Shakespeare's are when cleaned and lubed.
neat reel, thank you Tommy. I got a little-used 2062 cheap, right out the shipping box it's one of the smoothest reels I own, and beautifully solid.
Didn't even know about the 2068..
Nice detailed work as usual Tommy!
Thanks for showing us that reel and how it's done getting deep in there.
Sal
I ran into the bail spring challenge on a Shakespeare Sea Wonder reel.
I struggled so much that I had to put it down and come back to it the next day because I got so aggravated.
I figured it out, but I wish I had seen this post first.
Picked up a 2068 and thought I'd tack onto Tom's thread, seeing that there are a few differences in my particular reel, an EF ('65). I downloaded 2 schematics from ORCA that covered EG, EF, EE models. The three models show very minor differences, although my reel had one unique difference in the bails roller set up not shown in either schematics nor in Tom's excellent tutorial. Once again -and again- thank you Tom for sharing your excellent work.
First, the reel came in in good used condition. The only concern was two of the three body cover screws were missing heads! Price was good for this reel so I figured it was worth tackling. The screws turned out to be no functional issue as they held the tight fitting cover plate like pins. One screw keeps the plate safely affixed. It's an up-close aesthetic issue but not a functional one.
The reel was typically full of dry grease. So dry I had to chip it out of the gear teeth one tooth at a time. I did the requisite scouring, and polishing of important metal to metal contact areas, and proper lubing. The ball-bearing was in fine shape, being quiet on my bearing spinner. A bad bearing can sound like a box of gravel! I then did some creative work to shore some things up —fitting for a reel of this caliber, which I'll describe shortly.
Spinning reels are complicated, compared to the direct drive reels I have spent so much time on in the last couple of years. I used a surprising number of tools to get through this reel!
Here's the roller set up as I found it. I at first thought perhaps the "extra" bushing belonged elsewhere on the reel. It wasn't in the schematics nor Tom's tutorial.
After finishing the work the reel was typically smooth but there was a bit of noise that was not appropriate for such a reel. I had 2062's that felt better. So I went through a tightness protocol, checking for play in the drive train: the handle, gears, rotor, and main shaft. The handle rocked back and forth a bit and was tightened up with the addition of a single shim.
The main shaft moved the oscillating mechanism a bit too much, causing some knocking. So I applied a very thin stick-on felt patch to the oscillation block to act as a soft shim between the oscillation block and the post it rides against. There was just a bit too much space between the two, causing the knocking sound. The felt took up that slack.
This 2068 is now tight, smooth, and quiet. As it should be for this "possibly highest quality American made spinner". Although I'd venture that the 2062, that soon replaced it, is its equal, and a bit easier to service.
I'll also add a graphic from Shakespeare on how to replace the bailspring on these reels (2062, 2068, and presumably others in the line). The trick is to partially screw down the screw before trying to rotate the bracket into place. It is a bit of a trick but once you understand and get a feel for the proper orientation, it's doable. The graphic, plus Tom's image showing proper starting orientation of the bracket and spring, should help make this an easier task.
Great work, Paul!
Best, Fred
That one is really cool. Thanks for posting.
I know I'm repeating myself but I had every Mitchell Reel NIB. I had almost all of the saltwater Shakespeare Sea Wonder reels in maroon. Many with the factory manual bail. Shakespeare built some fine big reels.
Keith
Well done, Paul! I seldom use a schematic, other than maybe to double check the drag configuration. I generally just take them apart, take some photos along the way and put them back together the way they came apart. I probably never would have even noticed the different bail configuration.
Paul, in your 4th picture down with the line roller parts, one looks like it could be a roller-bearing?
Dunno where those "extra" roller parts came from. Apparently rollers can work without them. Maybe an upgrade that came late in the '65 production year? Should show up in the '66 schematic although I'm not sure there is one available.
I'll dig up schematics occasionally. Usually when something might be missing, appears to be extra, or a shim or washer I've lost track of. Or when I need the correct order of parts in some apparatus. Drag washers are a good example. The Pflueger "mechanical thumber" is another. Seems previous owners can get confused and guess at the order of such things, leaving me digging up a schematic.
Quote from: Gfish on January 02, 2023, 04:35:12 AMPaul, in your 4th picture down with the line roller parts, one looks like it could be a roller-bearing?
Yes, that's what it appears to be. Just don't see one in Tom's post or in the schematics.
Ok, thanks. Given the narrow profile of a roller-bearing(i.d. & o.d.) relative to a ball bearing, it seems like it would be a much better bearing fit for reducing friction on the roller. Never thought about that kinda set-up.
Beautiful reel! Question for anyone that knows (I have my own thoughts but don't want to speculate) why was this admittedly great series of reels so short lived? - john
"In 1962 Shakespeare began manufacture of the charcoal gray 2068 Sport Wonder for introduction into the 1963 market place. Later in 1963 Shakespeare also introduced the maroon 2062, which eventually became the 2068's successor."-Tommy
"Although I'd venture that the 2062, that soon replaced it, is its equal, and a bit easier to service."-Paul
When it comes to the bottom line, the 2062 does everything the 2068 will do at a cheaper manufacturing cost without sacrificing quality. I really appreciate my 2068 but its abilities are a tie with the 2062. The 2068 does give me more pride and joy though. I doubt the fish notice difference though.
So I checked the 1967 Shakespeare schematics publication (no '66 available) and the 2068 is still in it. But, the same three model years are shown: EG,EF,EE ('64,'65,'66). The only thing for '66 is a little inset showing parts for a RH retrieve version.
The roller mechanism does not show the bushing my reel has. It does however show the tiny shim washer (X47W: X47 denotes roller parts). Tom, I think the tiny shim you have in pic 13 may go on your roller rather than on the oscillation gear stud. No washer is depicted for the oscillation gear. Might want to check the fit at both places.
Quote from: Brewcrafter on January 02, 2023, 04:54:54 AMBeautiful reel! Question for anyone that knows (I have my own thoughts but don't want to speculate) why was this admittedly great series of reels so short lived? - john
Shakespeare was a great American company known for quality lures and baits, baitcasting reels, larger salt water Conventionals, and other quality tackle products. They had been in business for generations.
They engineered and produced very high quality products at an affordable price.
On top of that, they provided replacement parts, and supported the tackle repair shops with availability of replacement parts as well as ongoing support in other areas to promote their products that were designed for "life".
They grudgingly moved into the spinning reel market because anglers demanded spinning reels.
Spinning reels were easier to cast, use, more modern, and could cover 5 times the water area as a baitcaster —- with no birds nest issues.
US Companies like Langley, Johnson, Thommen, and others were selling fair amounts of spinning reels —- but never in enough volume to keep growing, paying fair wages, and make a decent profit. The European makers from France, Italy, Sweden, and Germany were also producing high quality spinning reels.
Shakespeare only knew how to make reels one way —- the highest quality they were able to produce. Good design, effective, strong, quality materials.
At about the same time (early 60's) —- Japan reel makers were copying American and European designs —- then producing spinning reels under dozens of brands and model names. These reels had catchy names, were attractive, colorful, and well marketed due to their lower price.
The materials were of inferior quality —- but the reels were cheap in price. They were not designing reels so much to catch fish —- as to catch anglers. Fish don't write checks.
Shakespeare realized that they needed to produce reels that were a little cheaper and swifter to manufacture. Less parts, etc.
While this was a great theory —- it wasn't enough to convince enough anglers to pay more for a Shakespeare —- as compared to less expensive brands. After changing their lineups of Shakespeare reels a few times —- they eventually merged with other foreign Asian companies —- like so many others.
Just boiled down to math —
Penn still owned the conventional reel market —- and would not introduce Spinfishers for a few more years yet.
These little 2068's are great reels.
One caveat —- if you find one that is stiff operating —- do not force the handle and operation until the reel is disassembled, all of the old dried up grease removed, and fully restored and serviced with modern synthetic lubes.
The gears are so strong —- that when the reel is "forced" what will break due to the dried grease —- is the soft oscillation block. And these parts are not available except with a donor reel. I have some of these reels in various sizes —- and they are excellent when restored like Paul and Tommy have accomplished very professionally.
Best, Fred
Just to be clear, I am not an expert like many others in the world on reel history, engineering, and manufacturing.
Mostly just a reel mechanic.
But I have and continue to do a lot of reading about things I am interested in.
If anyone ever gets a chance to pick up one or two of the books on Spinning Tackle by George Thommen (an expert and pioneer manufacturer of quality spinning reels) —- get it.
It is a fascinating and evenly presented volume of information about many different brands and their history.
Here is one published in 1954 —- Complete Guide to Spinning Tackle.
Best, Fred
Quote from: Paul Roberts on January 02, 2023, 10:17:09 AMSo I checked the 1967 Shakespeare schematics publication (no '66 available) and the 2068 is still in it. But, the same three model years are shown: EG,EF,EE ('64,'65,'66). The only thing for '66 is a little inset showing parts for a RH retrieve version.
The roller mechanism does not show the bushing my reel has. It does however show the tiny shim washer (X47W: X47 denotes roller parts). Tom, I think the tiny shim you have in pic 13 may go on your roller rather than on the oscillation gear stud. No washer is depicted for the oscillation gear. Might want to check the fit at both places.
Paul,
I pulled my 2068 out of the cabinet and checked it out. It works and spins as it should, although there is a little front to back play in the main shaft & spool that makes a little noise now and then but I doubt it would be a big deal while under tension and in action. I'd say pretty normal for a sixty year old real. :)
I took the bail arm & roller apart and, interestingly enough, if there was a shim washer installed the line guide wouldn't roll. The enlarged portion of the bail is just the right length so that the tungsten line guide fits perfectly and rolls when the acorn nut is tightened all the way down. If you notice, your schematic notes "(as required)". Given my reel is a "G" I'm figuring there may have a little variation in the length of their line rollers at various times that may have required a spacer. Secondly, I'm not sure that my reel had ever been completely taken apart, cleaned and serviced, and that shim washer was under the bushing on the oscillation gear stuck in the old grease, as seen in the original second photo. Plus, it has the exact same ID & OD as the bushing. I'm pretty confident that's where it was originally installed. Everything seems to work as it should, smoothly.
Also, you can barely see it in my original photos but there is a bronze bushing inside the tungsten line roller and it fits perfectly, no play, on the enlarged portion of the bail. I took a couple of better pics today while I had it apart.
Thanks for the clarifications, Tom. Couldn't tell in your photo the diameter of that shim. The shim for my roller was too large a diameter for the oscillation stud. But I'll double check to see that my roller is rolling freely. I did see the "as needed" comment too and wondered the same. This might suggest that there were quality control checks during the manufacturing process.
Interesting that you were able to find the bushing inside the carbide roller! Apparently they're supposed to be integral. Mine, separated from the roller, has indents all the way around suggesting it is not supposed to move free from the carbide roller.
It's all academic at this point, as both reels are functioning properly, but thanks for checking.
My reel has some minor front to back play in the shaft too. It's rotational movement that caused the oscillation block to clack. Took me a bit to get just the right sized piece of felt in the right spot to take up that slack and not just gum up the works.
Fred, I found a copy of the Thommen book you mentioned. It's on its way here. Thanks for the heads up. Should be an interesting read.
Quote from: Paul Roberts on January 03, 2023, 02:06:58 AMThanks for the clarifications, Tom. Couldn't tell in your photo the diameter of that shim. The shim for my roller was too large a diameter for the oscillation stud. But I'll double check to see that my roller is rolling freely. I did see the "as needed" comment too and wondered the same. This might suggest that there were quality control checks during the manufacturing process.
Interesting that you were able to find the bushing inside the carbide roller! Apparently they're supposed to be integral. Mine, separated from the roller, has indents all the way around suggesting it is not supposed to move free from the carbide roller.
It's all academic at this point, as both reels are functioning properly, but thanks for checking.
My reel has some minor front to back play in the shaft too. It's rotational movement that caused the oscillation block to clack. Took me a bit to get just the right sized piece of felt in the right spot to take up that slack and not just gum up the works.
Fred, I found a copy of the Thommen book you mentioned. It's on its way here. Thanks for the heads up. Should be an interesting read.
Quote from: Paul Roberts on January 03, 2023, 02:06:58 AMFred, I found a copy of the Thommen book you mentioned. It's on its way here. Thanks for the heads up. Should be an interesting read.
Great, Paul!
My (2) Thommen books —- '49 & '54 —- are quickly accessible —- and set right next to my books by Ben Wright and Michael Cacioppo. These are the Bibles to me.
Best, Fred
Quote from: Paul Roberts on January 03, 2023, 02:06:58 AMInteresting that you were able to find the bushing inside the carbide roller! Apparently they're supposed to be integral. Mine, separated from the roller, has indents all the way around suggesting it is not supposed to move free from the carbide roller.
I'm pretty sure they were pressed in. I had an exact size punch and tapped it a couple of times and it didn't budge a bit. I sounded solid as a rock.
Hmmm... Wonder why mine came free. No matter, it's in place now. I believe it's working. Will double check.
Noticed another difference with my reel: It did not have the plastic shielded bearing that yours has, and are in the two 2062's I have. My 2068 has the same metal shielded Hoover bearing I'd found on my Pflueger 551 (2062). What year did Shakes acquire Pflueger? This shield is permanent and needed to be punctured and essentially torn off to clean, inspect, and repack it.
Shakespeare bought Pflueger in '66. Reels were made in both Kalamazoo & Fayetteville for awhile.
Thanks, Tom.
Oh, and the roller on my 2068 spins freely. :fish
I waited until I could peek inside my 2068 again before commenting. I took apart the line roller on my EG 2068 and three 2062s (2 FE and 1 DA). None of them had shim washers (X47W) at the line roller. On all four reels I could tighten the lock nut all the way down and the roller would still spin freely with just a little end-play (but not enough to allow line to slip in). Personally, I would only use the shim if line could fit in there.
Then I read the comment about the shim at the oscillation gear stud so I had to go back and check that before writing a comment. My EG 2068 does not have a shim at the oscillation gear stud. This reel is in very good condition and I believe it to be un-molested before I serviced it.
-Mike
Thanks, Mike. I actually found that little shim on the paper towel in front of me while first taking the reel apart. "Uh oh! Where does this little bugger go?"
The only place it appeared likely to fit was the roller shaft. Then I saw the one on Tom's oscillation stud, and opened mine back up. My shim didn't fit there. That's when I broke out the schematics.
The "as required" comment in the parts list says a lot. No CAD or CNC when these lovely reels were made. And I'm willing to get creative when needed to bring an old reel up to snuff.
Quote from: Paul Roberts on January 04, 2023, 12:55:08 AMThanks, Mike. I actually found that little shim on the paper towel in front of me while first taking the reel apart. "Uh oh! Where does this little bugger go?"
The only place it appeared likely to fit was the roller shaft. Then I saw the one on Tom's oscillation stud, and mine back up. My shim didn't fit there. That's when I broke out the schematics.
The "as required" comment in the parts list says a lot. No CAD or CNC when these lovely reels were made. And I'm willing to get creative when needed to bring an old reel up to snuff.
That's why one never knows where they might find a shim or washer. Most higher quality stuff got hands on testing and and adjustment before the quality control inspector ever saw or touched it.
Quote from: foakes on January 02, 2023, 07:41:02 PM...
If anyone ever gets a chance to pick up one or two of the books on Spinning Tackle by George Thommen (an expert and pioneer manufacturer of quality spinning reels) —- get it.
It is a fascinating and evenly presented volume of information about many different brands and their history.
Here is one published in 1954 —- Complete Guide to Spinning Tackle.
Best, Fred
My Thommen book arrived. Interesting in that much of the info is relevant today.
Yes, Paul —-
For me, those books by George Thommen about Early Spinning reels, techniques, and development —- are both fascinating as well as educational.
I have (2) of his books —- the 1949 & 1954 editions.
Another great source of information about spinning reels are the (4) guides by Ben Wright.
They offer extensive and relevant ID, as well as dating.
If you have Wright's and Thommen's books —- you have it covered from the early 50's to the mid 90's.
Best, Fred