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I am missing some parts but I am not sure which ones. Can someone please help me with what parts I need and where I can pick them up? eBay has little to no parts for 110N and buying another reel is an option but just not what I want to do right now. The bail is very mushy and I think I am missing a spring somewhere? So, the reel is not working properly because the cup and spool are missing parts. I also noticed that I am missing the drags. The parts in the reel body seem to all be there and work correctly except for the little pin that goes into the bottom of the spool shaft. It is bent with two doglegs in it. I can wiggle it to get it in but I don't think that's the way it is supposed to be?
Hi BM!
Try and get some photos up so the missing parts can be properly identified. The Sensei of DAMs will be along soon!
Cheers,
Andrew
If you need DQ parts, Beachmaster -- I have those available for Alan Tani members.
I will need photos of your reels issues -- showing what is missing or tweaked is clear -- and what you think you need.
Should be easy enough.
Best, Fred
Got it figured out on the pics!(https://alantani.com/gallery/31/20043_29_12_19_4_58_57_313022257.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/31/20043_29_12_19_4_59_00_31307783.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/31/20043_29_12_19_4_58_51_313021747.jpeg)
Looks like all these bail components and slide are in place, you probably need to take out the bail spring and give the entire bail assembly a good cleaning. The pin definitely needs replaced.
Is there another coiled spring or is there only one?
After you clean up the bail assembly -- you might need a new bail spring -- and for sure a slide pin.
That coppery thing yellow-circled on the trip slide -- does not belong in the reel, I believe. That could be causing your bail issue -- or someone added it on to try and jerry-rig a fix for something else worn out. Should take it off.
Then you will need to let us know what spool drag parts you need.
And if anything else -- let me know -- in a PM, along with your address. I can send it out after we return home just after the First. Out of town currently.
Everything else in your photos seems fine. Just needs a good cleaning and lube with modern greases and synthetic oil.
The pin can be straightened out -- but it is not generally worth the hassle. This small part must be smooth and lubricated so that the spool shaft & oscillation slide work with no possibility of hanging up.
Best, Fred
Hey Fred, I think that is part of my finger you see as the coppery colored piece in the yellow circle. Also is there supposed to be a coiled spring in each side of the bail? I only have one coiled spring.
Just one (1) bail spring.
Best,
Fred
Awesome! Ok I am out of town too and will PM you when I get back. I cleaned up the bail assembly and took it all apart and it still is a bit mushy and is not operating correctly. My anti-reverse is not engaging as well either with the cup.
Quote from: Beachmaster on December 30, 2019, 01:50:05 AM
Awesome! Ok I am out of town too and will PM you when I get back. I cleaned up the bail assembly and took it all apart and it still is a bit mushy and is not operating correctly. My anti-reverse is not engaging as well either with the cup.
I already have two 110N, but should be getting another in mail tomorrow from ebay. It's supposed to rain the next few days, so I'll probably be disassembling it tomorrow and can post pics if you need them for reference. Last time I had problems with the anti-reverse on an N model, it was clogged with old lube and started working again after cleaning.
Quote from: Beachmaster on December 30, 2019, 01:04:41 AM
I think that is part of my finger you see as the coppery colored piece in the yellow circle.
You have a really weird finger :) :)
-steve
Got the bail working! It's not super crisp, but works. I think it would do great with a new spring. I pulled apart the coil to give it some more "spring" and one of the ends of the spring was not at a straight 90 to stay in the little hole of the bail side. My anti-reverse I just can't figure out. Everything moves as it should on it.
The A/R consists of about (5) parts including a spring that forces a aluminum dog against the ratcheted inside of the rotor.
If it is gummed up, warped, stuck, or worn -- it will not work.
In order to get this reel working properly -- EVERY part needs to be cleaned. It has been left abused for too long.
It will turn out as new when completed -- but shortcuts or half-measure fixes will result in halfway results.
Best,
Fred
Well a freakin screwed up! I couldn't leave well enough alone. The anti-reverse wasn't working because the dog was wore out, so I figured I would wedge a screwdriver in there and bend it outwards a little so that it would catch the notches on the cup. It worked and I needed to bend it a little more for it to completely catch and SNAP! As you can see it's all over now...I have a reel that cannot be repaired. No anti-reverse. I suppose I could fish it like that...looks like this reel has just been turned in to a parts reel and I will have to purchase a replacement from Ebay. Thanks for everyone's help nonetheless.
Reread Fred's reply about shortcuts. ::) ::)
Quote from: RowdyW on December 30, 2019, 04:48:53 AM
Reread Fred's reply about shortcuts. ::) ::)
Thanks. Learned the hard way. On the plus side, I learned a lot about the reel and how it works and now I have parts available for a replacement reel.
Rats...But his is still an easy save --
First, the entire reel needs to be disassembled, cleaned with a degreaser or simple green on the painted parts.
The stronger metal parts that are not painted need to be soaked in a HD mineral degreaser like lacquer thinner, carb cleaner -- or similar. This includes the bearing. Pop off and discard the bearing shields before cleaning. Regrease the bearing with a 60/40 mixture of grease and synthetic oil. Clean out the crank bushing and the inside of the worm drive with "0000" steel wool wrapped around a drill bit.
Then...glue the broken off pivot nub back into the exact position that it broke off from.
Then drill a small countersink hole in the middle of the nub -- and run a countersunk screw from the top down and out through the exterior of the frame casing -- secured with nut and lock washer.
Then I would send you a new A/R dog -- along with any other parts you might require.
Hint -- always pull out the A/R stop pin when installing a new A/R dog -- much easier.
Best,
Fred
Okay, I will have to try that when I get home. You don't think that maybe some JB Weld to secure the nub back would work?
Might work -- and possibly stay in place over the next 40 years of fishing. That nub is the focus/receiving pressure point of the A/R system that stops the rotation of the rotor head.
If you would like to have your DQ 110N reel restored to as close to new -- it would run you $50, including any parts needed. This includes a full restore, including paint.
Shipping would run another $18 for the round trip, via Priority Mail.
Here are some that were restored for a client a couple of months ago -- all but one, were much worse than the condition of yours.
He was happy with the outcome of each reel -- and is in the process of sending out another group of 35 DQ reels.
Best, Fred
Holy smokes that is awesome Fred! When I get home I am going to JB Weld the nub back in, have to do that anyway, then I will see how that holds up. I won't be doing any fishing other than panfish or crappie with this reel. I'll send you a PM later on. I may use your service in the future too! Right now I just enjoy working on reels myself and I am just starting out.
This all started back in August when I was going on a trip to Port Aransas and I was getting my fishing gear together, which consisted of three Abu Garcia 5000 reels I bought new about 20 years ago. I had an old reel my Grandfather gave me just before he passed and it's been in my garage for about six years. I saw it while I was grabbing my gear for the trip and decided I would take it down and look at it closer. I honestly had no idea what it was. I just thought it was an old and outdated reel that I would never use. It was mounted on some sort of boat rod with a pulley at the tip.
I began searching online after I got the name "Penn Senator" off the reel,(I had no idea what that was at the time). The education began right there and then, and I have developed this relentless habit of purchasing vintage reels from EBay. I probably have over 20 now. The Penn my Grandfather gave me turned out is a 4/0 Senator. I worked all night one night tearing it down and cleaned, lubed and spoiled with 30# mini for shark. I was hooked from that point on. Later on I found out about the Quicks and have about six of those.
I love all things vintage (I'm only 40) and the quality that things used to be made. I just love these vintage reels and the joy they bring when I pick one up for a good deal and am able to tear it down and bring it back to life. I gave my brother a Penn 155 I refurbished from eBay for his Christmas present. It had a plastic spool so I began with half the spool 50# Dacron then 20# mono to finish it off. The look on his face was priceless when he opened it up.
I am rambling on now, sorry! I am looking forward to purchasing more Quicks soon... looking at a couple 550's for my saltwater fishing in the summers. I think they will do the job I need for the surf and maybe pier fishing too.
There is a lot of pleasure and confidence gained by learning how to work on these old high quality fishing reels!
Best,
Fred
Great story on how you stepped into the vintage reel repair hobby, Beachmaster.
Penn conventionals and D-A-M Quicks are definitely habit forming.
In the meantime, just got back from the mailbox and unboxed this slightly used 110N. It is very hard to turn the handle, probably gawmed up with 40 year old grease. We'll find out soon.
Quote from: festus on December 30, 2019, 06:03:11 PM
Great story on how you stepped into the vintage reel repair hobby, Beachmaster.
Penn conventionals and D-A-M Quicks are definitely habit forming.
In the meantime, just got back from the mailbox and unboxed this slightly used 110N. It is very hard to turn the handle, probably gawmed up with 40 year old grease. We'll find out soon.
Wow! That is great!
Quote from: foakes on December 30, 2019, 05:38:42 PM
There is a lot of pleasure and confidence gained by learning how to work on these old high quality fishing reels!
Best,
Fred
Fred, I purchased another 110N off ebay when I got back from xmas vacay. Not a bad deal for around $30. Upon inspection of the new to me 110N I noticed that my previous 110N (the one that I broke the AR Dog post) has other problems. The spool is cracked in half on it as well. I reluctantly admit that I thought that was just the way the little reel was built, with a two piece spool ::) So, for now, I am going to use my "crappy" 110N as a parts reel for if I ever need some internal parts; I will fish the most recent one I have as it is in great condition as far as I can tell(haven't broken it completely down as of yet).
A 110 plastic spool and a 265 Microlite metal spool will interchange between each of those reels.
Don't ever try to install a 110 or 265 spool on a 110N -- it will slip on very easily -- and will require cutting a part to remove it.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on January 10, 2020, 03:54:20 AM
Don't ever try to install a 110 or 265 spool on a 110N -- it will slip on very easily -- and will require cutting a part to remove it.
I didn't know this! Thanks for that tip Fred!
Quote from: mo65 on January 10, 2020, 05:24:28 PM
Quote from: foakes on January 10, 2020, 03:54:20 AM
Don't ever try to install a 110 or 265 spool on a 110N -- it will slip on very easily -- and will require cutting a part to remove it.
I didn't know this! Thanks for that tip Fred!
This is true on all DQ reels in the "N" series -- except the big 550 size reels.
Best,
Fred