I was wondering if anyone has ever scanned and copied an obsolete reel part for personal use,I am sure it may be a patent violation if they were sold to the public?
i doubt that a company would go through the trouble of chasing after someone for something like this. there is never going to be a very large market.
crosswind blocks are the first thing that comes to mind....I would agree with Alan, doubtful a company will chase someone down for a few polymer repros of a part disco'd 30 years or more ago....
We have one at work that I have seen some pretty stout items made with it I guess according to the media used.I am sure an AR dog maybe even a gear could be tougher than the new stuff engineered to fail.They make whatever they can out of plastic nowadays, unlike Mitchell 300s ....
I will soon have access to CF reinforced printed parts. The speed isn't there for production but really cool one offs will be fun.
The Man
Most patents have been expired for many years if parts are obsolete. I doubt there would be many, if any, parts patent violation chasers out there.
This is a topic that keeps coming up from time to time. Patents are not the main issue. As Tommy points out, patents on old reels have probably expired. And individual replacement components may not be covered by a patent. The bigger issue will be customers unhappy with the appearance, fit and durability of the parts.
I have made parts like handles and drag knobs, and a 720 crosswind block is a very good candidate (but somebody should try to talk Tom at Cortez into cranking out a batch of machined Delrin crosswind blocks). I have designed and printed functional gear sets (not for reels), but the teeth on reel size gears are too small to print cleanly, and will be ridiculously weak if not kept in alignment. I have also made frame kit prototypes. In my opinion, most replacement parts from a a hobby printer will be substandard at best and not usually a viable replacement for original parts.
The printed part can be surprisingly strong for forces on an XY plane (original printing orientation) , but the since the part is made in layers by stacking beads of melted plastic, inter-layer strength is not nearly as good and is unpredictable. The thicker the beads, the stronger the inter-layer adhesion, but it makes for an uglier, less precise part.
The plastics that are suitable for this type of 3D printing are not the most suitable for production parts. The stronger plastics like nylon, ABS, and even polycarbonate can be printed, but shrink quite a bit when cooling causing many parts to warp as the lower layers are cooling while the upper layers are printing (varies by part design). Most hobbyists print with PLA plastic, which doesn't warp much while printing and is very hard but not that strong, and the finished part will often warp when exposed to a hot sun.
Most plastics require an additive to prevent rapid UV degradation, BUT 3D filament manufacturers have not been able to come up with a viable UV inhibitor for hobby printer filament. ASA filament is available, and this plastic is intrinsically UV resistant and has many of the properties of ABS, which makes it relatively strong, but somewhat elastic. It also warps.
I have been playing with (carbon) fiber filled plastics for a bit now. I like the stuff, but it is not magic. Fiber does help resist shrinkage and warpage, and seems to help bond layers together better. Mostly, the fiber makes the part stiffer, but stiffer means more brittle, and subject to stress introduced during printing and use. No free lunch. You need a special hardened steel nozzle (instead of brass) to deal with the abrasion from the fibers, and it is trickier to keep the nozzle temp consistent, so consistency in layer adhesion can be a problem.
There are some interesting new printer systems with costs getting down toward the USD $100K range that combine special filaments or resins and microwave enhanced sintering ovens. The sintering fuses the layers together, and the filaments can be a carrier for metal powder, meaning it is possible to print parts out of various metals with densities in the high 90 percentage - approaching the strength of a cast part. But the filament is expensive, so the parts won't be cheap. Long term, scientists are trying to figure out how to cheaply get from raw titanium to fine powder, and then decrease the time and energy involved in fusing the powder into a part. Titanium is ubiquitous on our planet, so cheap one-off parts in the future might all be made out of titanium :). For now, only very high value parts are made this way.
There are services out there that can make stronger functional plastic or metal parts with industrial 3D printers, but the cost is usually too high to make it worthwhile. I sent a few CAD files out for quotes, but never pulled the trigger because of cost.
And finally, the thing that most folks overlook is that in order to print a part, somebody has to has to draw up the 3D model in a CAD program. It seems like only one out of every couple hundred (thousand?) people with a hobby 3D printer has reasonable competence with a mechanical CAD program. The rest of them are scavenging the internet for 3D images of Star Wars action figures to download.
I have been hankering to make a full on hobby printer reel to see if I could catch a dorado or small tuna before the reel blew up, but the design has to be very different than a typical reel to accommodate the issues around 3D printing.
I do make lots of non reel parts, tools, fixtures, lure mold masters, and even lures with my 3D printer. So I do find the gizmo useful. The only way to get some 3D printer parts is to print them :)
A person with some CAD skills and some experience with 3D printing should be able make something like a frame kit or sideplate that will work for awhile. It won't last, or work as well as the original parts, but it could be fun.
I would suggest doing a search on this site for 3D. Lots of this stuff is covered, and more.
Ron: If you get more serious about getting into some 3D printing and/or CAD and want to chat, feel free to PM me. Making some parts for fun is the right approach in my opinion. I think this stuff is pretty fun.
-J
I know very little about 3D printing, so reading the posts here has been enlightening.
Frank
Well now I know more than I did about 3D printers,which was zippo .Thank you for the info very informative !
I was supposed to do the laundry. Designed and printed up some Penn 720/722 crosswind blocks instead. Not a very difficult decision :)
Seems to work pretty well.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on February 13, 2020, 08:53:04 PM
And finally, the thing that most folks overlook is that in order to print a part, somebody has to has to draw up the 3D model in a CAD program. It seems like only one out of every couple hundred (thousand?) people with a hobby 3D printer has reasonable competence with a mechanical CAD program. The rest of them are scavenging the internet for 3D images of Star Wars action figures to download.
Beautiful work on the cross-wind block.
I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense to 3D print a one-off part. In the time required to set up the software, do a test run, tweek the program and then print the part, you could carve the part from stronger Delrin or PEEK stock or, perhaps, lay it up by hand..
There are some 3D printed reels on the internet. But tuna????
-steve
Quote from: oc1 on February 14, 2020, 07:38:10 AM
Quote from: jurelometer on February 13, 2020, 08:53:04 PM
And finally, the thing that most folks overlook is that in order to print a part, somebody has to has to draw up the 3D model in a CAD program. It seems like only one out of every couple hundred (thousand?) people with a hobby 3D printer has reasonable competence with a mechanical CAD program. The rest of them are scavenging the internet for 3D images of Star Wars action figures to download.
Beautiful work on the cross-wind block.
I'm not sure it makes a lot of sense to 3D print a one-off part. In the time required to set up the software, do a test run, tweek the program and then print the part, you could carve the part from stronger Delrin or PEEK stock or, perhaps, lay it up by hand..
There are some 3D printed reels on the internet. But tuna????
-steve
Thanks! You could do it faster by hand. For me it would take awhile, and a bit of blood loss. But you are right. With some fixturing and a rotary tool (I like my Foredom- couldn't do anything right with a Dremel), grinding a crosswind block out of Delrin is totally doable. Delrin/acetal is easy to work with. The nice thing about CAD and printing, is that you can tweak the design and print a new part without going back to square one. And the second, third and fourth part just pop right out of the printer.
The 3D printed reels that I have seen are toys. I think that I could make a reel with mostly printed plastic parts (any shafts would have to be metal) that could catch a small tuna- like 10 lbs or under. A dorado/mahi for sure. the freespool is the tricky part- maybe go with a knuckle buster design on the cast.
------
Getting back to the original question: I forgot to talk about scanning. I have only done a little of this but scanning dimensional parts is an expensive proposition. The software tries to build a mesh (a wireframe of triangles) based on a set of photos taken from different angles. Getting a fully realized mesh that is dimensionally accurate requires a quality setup - you have to know exact camera locations relative to the part. I think that this is usually sent out to a specialist shop, as opposed to something that someone would do on their own. And once you have a mesh, it is not so useful for CAD, so the mesh might have to be converted into a parametric model that has actual dimensions that can be tweaked. Better off buying several dozen backup reels for parts and save some money.
The hobby scanning stuff will work for art type projects - sort-of. It is supposed to be getting better, but I haven't tried any of the newer stuff.
It is usually easier to do some measurements and a bit of trial and error for these kind of parts.
-J
I imagine like all technology in 10 years it will be simpler and cheaper,I remember reading Dick Tracy comic books in the 60s,he could talk & see people on his watch thinking it was unreal, now we have them...
You tried printing with Ultem? 9085 would be pretty durable, and it doesn't shrink so much.
What would be really fun would be to get a HandySCAN and reverse engineer the parts really quick going that route.
Quote from: witty1 on February 15, 2020, 06:41:16 PM
You tried printing with Ultem? 9085 would be pretty durable, and it doesn't shrink so much.
What would be really fun would be to get a HandySCAN and reverse engineer the parts really quick going that route.
Right now, I only work with hobby gear :(
Ultem? Requires a printer capable of 400c extrusion temps, and bed temps of 150c. and a very hot chamber. Beyond the capabilities of hobby printers. And the filament retails about USD $250 a kilo.
I don't know what the original crosswind block is made from, but it looks suspiciously like ABS. I don't want to waste a functional part on the melt and smell test to find out for sure. The ideal replacement material should be relatively hard (but not abrasive), creep resistant, and a good sliding coefficient of friction against brass (or bronze- hard to tell). My vote: Delrin/acetal. Doesn't 3D print well on hobby printers, but easy enough to machine from stock, even with a CNC router. Ultem would be overkill from a strength perspective, and I don't know if it makes a decent bearing surface.
I just looked up HandyScan. Wow. Pretty fancy! Seems quite capable, but hand-held scanners are usually optimized for scanning larger parts. MSRP ~USD $50,000. For that kind of coin, I could buy a nice Haas Mini CNC mill, tooling, a digital probe setup, a couple dozen Penn 720s, and still have enough cash left over to send a bunch of parts out for scanning. Plus beer :). Or maybe buy a nice boat instead. Or a very long trip to Baja...
But seriously, if you have access to a professional printer capable of making functional mechanical parts out of Ultem, PM me if you are interested in some projects. There are better fishing reel projects for Ultem than a 720 crosswind block.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on February 14, 2020, 07:29:11 AM
I was supposed to do the laundry. Designed and printed up some Penn 720/722 crosswind blocks instead. Not a very difficult decision :)
Seems to work pretty well.
-J
Mystic was getting 20 bucks a pop out of those aftermarket 720 crosswind blocks...until they ran out. Might be a market for those. 8)
you guys are amazing. this is all way past my pay grade! ;D
Quote from: mo65 on February 16, 2020, 12:51:09 AM
Quote from: jurelometer on February 14, 2020, 07:29:11 AM
I was supposed to do the laundry. Designed and printed up some Penn 720/722 crosswind blocks instead. Not a very difficult decision :)
Seems to work pretty well.
-J
Mystic was getting 20 bucks a pop out of those aftermarket 720 crosswind blocks...until they ran out. Might be a market for those. 8)
My price: zero bucks - free shipping and handling for Mo. PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a couple if you like. Stick one in a reel that you fish and report back on how good they hold up.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on February 16, 2020, 03:17:36 AM
My price: zero bucks - free shipping and handling for Mo. PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a couple if you like. Stick one in a reel that you fish and report back on how good they hold up.
You betcha! PMing now. I can put one in my 720 and try one in my brother's 722...we'll be fishing both reels hard in about a month or so.
Quote from: mo65 on February 16, 2020, 04:08:25 AM
Quote from: jurelometer on February 16, 2020, 03:17:36 AM
My price: zero bucks - free shipping and handling for Mo. PM me your mailing address and I'll send you a couple if you like. Stick one in a reel that you fish and report back on how good they hold up.
You betcha! PMing now. I can put one in my 720 and try one in my brother's 722...we'll be fishing both reels hard in about a month or so.
Go get em Moe. Can't wait for your report. Dominick
Made a new handle knob for the 720/722. Same style as the original, but oversized a bit. Made a drag knob a while ago. So now all of the plastic parts on this reel are 3D printed.
I faked out the drag knob innards with a nut that I had lying around. If I can get my hands on a broken drag knob, I can design a replacement that reuses the metal parts. I think that there is an insert, a spring, and a nut inside.
Quote from: alantani on February 16, 2020, 01:22:08 AM
you guys are amazing. this is all way past my pay grade! ;D
I can design and print up a purdy cow tuna reel for you. Already have some nice metalic gold filament :). Suggest that you wear safety glasses when fishing it. Maybe a full face shield :)
If you ever get the urge, feel free to stop by for a beverage and a 3D design and printing demo. The garage is a mess. You will feel right at home ;D ;D ;D
-J
You did a great job with some of those round handles you sent me a while back, made from plastic.
I haven't had a chance to copy those yet, using acrylic acetate.
Here is a knob I did by hand about 5-6 years ago, using corian.
Love the green on black:
Oops be back, lost the pic
Here we go:
(https://i.imgur.com/aP7G0BO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cPwC7S5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kuLMhDn.jpg)
Quote from: Alto Mare on February 23, 2020, 02:44:30 PM
You did a great job with some of those round handles you sent me a while back, made from plastic.
I haven't had a chance to copy those yet, using acrylic acetate.
Here is a knob I did by hand about 5-6 years ago, using corian.
Love the green on black:
Nice craftsmanship! I wish I was that good with my hands. The color is perfect.
I found that I really liked the stock 720 knob design from an ergonomic perspective. Much nicer than a round knob, considering that this is a reel that will not be cranked under heavy load. Scaling up the width a bit to make the knob slightly oversized makes it even better.
Is the Corian smooth enough to use without a bushing? I thought that it might be a bit abrasive. One of the weaknessesof the 720 is that th knob screw/shaft is aluminum. No problems from galvanic corrosion, but the shaft surface is subject to wear. Or did you replace the screw?
I forgot about those big plastic spinner knobs that we worked on. I was going to make one out of aluminum at some point. Yet another unfinished project :).
This is one of the nice things about computer design and 3D printing. It is pretty fast to crank out and modify a set of prototypes in order to get the design just right. The downside is that it too easy to move on to the next prototyping project and never finish anything.
I can send you a couple 3D printed oversized 720 knobs to play with if you are interested. You can see if you like the look and feel. I think that you could make a real beauty in this style with some of the materials that you use.
-J
I agree with you Dave, a simple but beautiful design on that knob and very effective.
Yes Corian buffs to a mirror finish.... good stuff.
That Corian knob looks special.
Frank
I got Jurelometer's crosswind block installed today. It was a perfect fit...slipped right into place. That aluminum block is one of the aftermarket blocks that Mystic sold out of. This reel gets fished pretty hard, as can be seen by that one season old grease, it was yellow.(Ardent Reel Butter) I'll report back later with results. Thanks for the opportunity Dave. 8)
Looks great!
What material was it printed with?
Quote from: mo65 on February 26, 2020, 08:46:51 PM
I got Jurelometer's crosswind block installed today. It was a perfect fit...slipped right into place. That aluminum block is one of the aftermarket blocks that Mystic sold out of. This reel gets fished pretty hard, as can be seen by that one season old grease, it was yellow.(Ardent Reel Butter) I'll report back later with results. Thanks for the opportunity Dave. 8)
I am very curious to see how well they hold up. It will be useful data either way! Thanks for giving these a try.
Quote from: xjchad on February 26, 2020, 08:49:25 PM
Looks great!
What material was it printed with?
Straight PETG. No fiber, as I was worried that fiber might be too abrasive on the pin.
I have a whole cabinet full of different 3D plastics, but I pretty much stick to PETG for anything that requires strength. Sometimes carbon filled PETG. PLA gets used for mold masters or other parts that need to look pretty or get sanded down. I plan to get a spool of ASA to play with for parts with lots of UV exposure. Should be reasonably strong but is supposed to warp like ABS (blech). Haven't seen any fiber filled ASA yet.
The methods/materials for making the strongest part usually has a tradeoff in the appearance department. PETG ain't the prettiest- but I still like it a lot.
And here is another part ideally suited for 3D printing- a handle nut cap for some smaller Shimano saltwater conventionals- TLDs ad TRs (is that right?).
-J.
And a clamp for a Newell 220:
(https://alantani.com/gallery/32/11927_22_03_20_10_11_20.jpeg)
The sheared off bugle head screws were use to flare the brass tubing in the hook-holder. Just squeezed it in the bench vice.
This was printed out out carbon-fiber filled PETG- but regular PETG might have been better. It will hold up to light blows with a hammer, but if I stick it in a vice and give it a serious whack, it will break. The carbon fibers make parts stiffer, but more brittle.
I was casting rod clamps out of urethane before - and I think the printed parts are not as tough. I just need to play around with different products to find the right urethane blend. If I can get my hands on a CNC router again, I think I will cut a few out of Delrin/acetal.
-J
Always enjoy your posts, Dave.
I've seen your machining skills, those should come out very nice.
I want to mention there is a guy out of California that has been making clamps with a trigger,
I believe He sells those for $28 a piece and he claims they're very tough... not as bad price for a custom part.
Sorry, don't remember his name, he might be a member here...John Trung?... not sure.
Anyways, you never do anything for money, only to help out, so that doesn't really matter.
Sal
Quote from: Alto Mare on March 23, 2020, 10:33:11 AM
Always enjoy your posts, Dave.
I've seen your machining skills, those should come out very nice.
I want to mention there is a guy out of California that has been making clamps with a trigger,
I believe He sells those for $28 a piece and he claims they're very tough... not as bad price for a custom part.
Sorry, don't remember his name, he might be a member here...John Trung?... not sure.
Anyways, you never do anything for money, only to help out, so that doesn't really matter.
Sal
Thanks Sal,
Any praise from a craftsman like yourself is greatly appreciated. I am not anywhere close to being in the same league as some of the machinists that make parts for us here.
But I really want to start machining some parts again.
I was thinking that I could make my own mini CNC router pretty cheaply from Chinese parts. Then I think that maybe I could make a pretty rigid one for just a bit more. Then I think that I should just buy a desktop CNC mill for making small parts. Then I think why not get a hobby CNC mill like a Tormach. Then I think for another 10K I might find a decent used Haas mini or tool room mill.
Then I think that spending a huge chunk of money just to put a Haas in my garage for occasional use is insane. And getting a Haas or any pro CNC mill serviced is crazy expensive. Why not just go cheap and make a mini CNC router from Chinese parts. Then I think I maybe I could make a rigid one for just a bit more, and so on...
I have been cycling like this for about a year now :)
I think the trick is to getting a CNC mill is like getting a boat. The smartest way is to find a friend with one :)
-J
Dave, in my case that last phrase you've mentioned fits me perfectly.🙂
Can't wait to see what you come up with,
thanks
Sal
Quote from: jurelometer on February 27, 2020, 12:16:01 AM
Quote from: mo65 on February 26, 2020, 08:46:51 PM
I got Jurelometer's crosswind block installed today. It was a perfect fit...slipped right into place. That aluminum block is one of the aftermarket blocks that Mystic sold out of. This reel gets fished pretty hard, as can be seen by that one season old grease, it was yellow.(Ardent Reel Butter) I'll report back later with results. Thanks for the opportunity Dave. 8)
I am very curious to see how well they hold up. It will be useful data either way! Thanks for giving these a try.
-J.
I haven't forgot about these...but the pandemic
totally screwed the spring crappie fishing. Boat ramps and parks are just reopening now around here. I'll get a little mileage on it this summer though, so a report will eventually come. 8)
Wow...can't believe I am just now getting to report on Dave's crosswind block...the 'rona flat out ruined the fishing here in 2020. Lockdowns, ramp closures, bait shops out of business, what a horrible year.
At any rate, I'm happy to report that we finally got a chance to test the crosswind blocks and they performed perfectly. We fished them for two days, constantly casting the whole time. We caught a mixed bag of bass, crappie, and bluegill. My only equipment failure was one wind knot...can I blame that on the Jurelometer crosswind block? ;D
Thanks Dave for a fantastic part! 8)
I made one repair on 3D Printer.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=31100.msg369163#msg369163
Quote from: mo65 on November 12, 2020, 02:01:37 PM
Wow...can't believe I am just now getting to report on Dave's crosswind block...the 'rona flat out ruined the fishing here in 2020. Lockdowns, ramp closures, bait shops out of business, what a horrible year.
At any rate, I'm happy to report that we finally got a chance to test the crosswind blocks and they performed perfectly. We fished them for two days, constantly casting the whole time. We caught a mixed bag of bass, crappie, and bluegill. My only equipment failure was one wind knot...can I blame that on the Jurelometer crosswind block? ;D
Thanks Dave for a fantastic part! 8)
Thanks for the update! So we now know that the part works when fishing. Now it is just a question of how long it holds up. Is there anyone out there that fishes a 720/722 that wants to give these a try? I have a few more sitting on my desk.
And agree entirely on 2020.
Quote from: Riy2018 on November 12, 2020, 10:30:12 PM
I made one repair on 3D Printer.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=31100.msg369163#msg369163
Looks like the part for the Daiwa was built on a FDM printer, hopefully out of PETG. You got a good deal for a scan and a single part. Parts printed this way are not as strong between layers as across layers, so layer separation is a risk for failure at the same point as happened the original part. If you need to make a new one at some point, it might be worth it to see if there is enough room in the reel to increase the wall thickness in that area.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on February 13, 2020, 08:53:04 PM
This is a topic that keeps coming up from time to time. Patents are not the main issue. As Tommy points out, patents on old reels have probably expired. And individual replacement components may not be covered by a patent. The bigger issue will be customers unhappy with the appearance, fit and durability of the parts.
I have made parts like handles and drag knobs, and a 720 crosswind block is a very good candidate (but somebody should try to talk Tom at Cortez into cranking out a batch of machined Delrin crosswind blocks). I have designed and printed functional gear sets (not for reels), but the teeth on reel size gears are too small to print cleanly, and will be ridiculously weak if not kept in alignment. I have also made frame kit prototypes. In my opinion, most replacement parts from a a hobby printer will be substandard at best and not usually a viable replacement for original parts.
The printed part can be surprisingly strong for forces on an XY plane (original printing orientation) , but the since the part is made in layers by stacking beads of melted plastic, inter-layer strength is not nearly as good and is unpredictable. The thicker the beads, the stronger the inter-layer adhesion, but it makes for an uglier, less precise part.
The plastics that are suitable for this type of 3D printing are not the most suitable for production parts. The stronger plastics like nylon, ABS, and even polycarbonate can be printed, but shrink quite a bit when cooling causing many parts to warp as the lower layers are cooling while the upper layers are printing (varies by part design). Most hobbyists print with PLA plastic, which doesn't warp much while printing and is very hard but not that strong, and the finished part will often warp when exposed to a hot sun.
Most plastics require an additive to prevent rapid UV degradation, BUT 3D filament manufacturers have not been able to come up with a viable UV inhibitor for hobby printer filament. ASA filament is available, and this plastic is intrinsically UV resistant and has many of the properties of ABS, which makes it relatively strong, but somewhat elastic. It also warps.
I have been playing with (carbon) fiber filled plastics for a bit now. I like the stuff, but it is not magic. Fiber does help resist shrinkage and warpage, and seems to help bond layers together better. Mostly, the fiber makes the part stiffer, but stiffer means more brittle, and subject to stress introduced during printing and use. No free lunch. You need a special hardened steel nozzle (instead of brass) to deal with the abrasion from the fibers, and it is trickier to keep the nozzle temp consistent, so consistency in layer adhesion can be a problem.
There are some interesting new printer systems with costs getting down toward the USD $100K range that combine special filaments or resins and microwave enhanced sintering ovens. The sintering fuses the layers together, and the filaments can be a carrier for metal powder, meaning it is possible to print parts out of various metals with densities in the high 90 percentage - approaching the strength of a cast part. But the filament is expensive, so the parts won't be cheap. Long term, scientists are trying to figure out how to cheaply get from raw titanium to fine powder, and then decrease the time and energy involved in fusing the powder into a part. Titanium is ubiquitous on our planet, so cheap one-off parts in the future might all be made out of titanium :). For now, only very high value parts are made this way.
There are services out there that can make stronger functional plastic or metal parts with industrial 3D printers, but the cost is usually too high to make it worthwhile. I sent a few CAD files out for quotes, but never pulled the trigger because of cost.
And finally, the thing that most folks overlook is that in order to print a part, somebody has to has to draw up the 3D model in a CAD program. It seems like only one out of every couple hundred (thousand?) people with a hobby 3D printer has reasonable competence with a mechanical CAD program. The rest of them are scavenging the internet for 3D images of Star Wars action figures to download.
I have been hankering to make a full on hobby printer reel to see if I could catch a dorado or small tuna before the reel blew up, but the design has to be very different than a typical reel to accommodate the issues around 3D printing.
I do make lots of non reel parts, tools, fixtures, lure mold masters, and even lures with my 3D printer. So I do find the gizmo useful. The only way to get some 3D printer parts is to print them :)
A person with some CAD skills and some experience with 3D printing should be able make something like a frame kit or sideplate that will work for awhile. It won't last, or work as well as the original parts, but it could be fun.
I would suggest doing a search on this site for 3D. Lots of this stuff is covered, and more.
Ron: If you get more serious about getting into some 3D printing and/or CAD and want to chat, feel free to PM me. Making some parts for fun is the right approach in my opinion. I think this stuff is pretty fun.
-J
"(but somebody should try to talk Tom at Cortez into cranking out a batch of machined Delrin crosswind blocks)."
Done!
Quote from: Cortez_Conversions on December 22, 2020, 05:10:41 PM
"(but somebody should try to talk Tom at Cortez into cranking out a batch of machined Delrin crosswind blocks)."
Done!
Ooh, nice! Just saw them:
https://www.cortezconversions.com/product-page/penn-crosswind-block-spinfisher-reels (https://www.cortezconversions.com/product-page/penn-crosswind-block-spinfisher-reels)
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on November 12, 2020, 11:13:53 PM
Thanks for the update! So we now know that the part works when fishing. Now it is just a question of how long it holds up.
Happy to report I just fished another 2 days of hard use and the blocks are still working perfectly. 8)
Very interesting Mike & Dave, thanks for the follow up, cheers Don.