A year or so ago I started looking into peripheral engine system monitoring goodies. I wanted a package that would monitor multiple systems and interface with my MFD. unfortunately I learned that my 2004 Yanmar 6LPA is a mechanical engine and has no electronics to tie into for such a system. I questioned wether I really needed such a system or if it would simply satisfy my addiction to boat goodies for awhile.
I give thanks for the corona virus, without it the launch ramps would have opened on the first Saturday of April and I would have been Salmon fishing, and I also likely would have destroyed my very expensive Yanmar turbo diesel. Instead we got the Coronavirus and the launch ramps were shut down, fishing season was postponed until May. So I decided to get some of the little things I've been avoiding done on the boat, I found a local custom canvas shop and arranged to get a cover made so she stays clean and shiny, I pulled out my torn up helm seat and got it into a local custom shop at the harbor for re upholstery.
Then I set about draining. And changing out my coolant. In the process I inadvertently leaned into my exhaust mixing elbow and it fell off the turbocharger outlet? Close examination revealed it wasn't working, it was rusted up and the vanes were stuck and there is a hole in it that a small dog could crawl through, all the signs of long term sea water intrusion were evident. Then I got to looking at the mixing elbow I replaced just 4yrs ago and discovered several internal fractures in the casting that obviously were the source of the sea water getting at the turbo. What caused this? I believe it was caused one day about 15 months ago, I was in a hurry to get out to the fishing grounds, last days of the season and the bite was hot. I left the dock without opening my seacock. A mile or so out of the harbor I noticed the engine temperature rapidly increasing, I quickly realized what I had done and opened the seacock, engine temp immediately dropped, I thought nothing more of it. What I failed to realize was by the time the engine temperature started rising the exhaust gas temperature was already critically high, opening the seawater cock and suddenly introducing 55 degree water into a super heated exhaust mixing elbow caused a catastrophic internal failure to the elbow. The water stayed inside but it penetrated the liner through the cracks and began to shower the exhaust port of the turbocharger with sea water. Everything looked good from the outside so no need to investigate. Well now I get to buy a new turbocharger, $2800.00, a new mixing elbow $475.00, a mess of gaskets nuts bolts and small hoses and misc hardware, $200.00.
I had to cancel, I mean postpone my new boat cover until an undetermined future date. There's an outfit in Placerville ca. Called Borel, they make a sensor that senses any temperature increase and sounds an audible alarm warning of increase temperature at the exhaust water side normal should be around 150 degrees and at 180 degrees this sets off an alarm. No drilling or anything it's goes around the exhaust hose downstream of the mixing elbow like an expensive fancy zip tie. Cost less than $100.00 probably takes a couple hours to install and pull the wiring and set up the horn. They make one for $65.00 that has a red flashing idiot light instead of a horn. Either way it would have saved me all this trouble, but the good news is it didn't happen on the water, nobody was hurt, And I can do all the work myself so I am not paying labor.
There is a lesson here and this time I'm not going to ignore it. I'm adding this Borel sensor, I'm adding an exhaust gas temperature sensor and a turbo boost gauge. Less than $500.00 for all of them. The ramps opened yesterday to the public and I am 10-14 days out before the boat will be ready.
Every cloud has a silver lining and time wounds all heals, and I have a lucky star watching over me.
Good luck David. I will take you up on your long ago invite to fish with you when an if I return to San Mateo (gas and bait payment of course). I am undecided on how long to isolate at the cabin far away from this dangerous disease. I am glad you are able to look at your boat problems with a calm disposition. You're a good man David. Dominick
Dominick you got a space on the Long Hall anytime, you can even invite Wayne, (as long as he behaves).
I learned long ago that there is no use in getting all worked up over things like this and as it turns out I might very likely have lost my engine had I launched.
its always good times on my boat and getting everyone safely back to the dock at the end of the day is my number one priority.
Rob and I will find the fish.
Good mechanical systems story. Good learning info. for us. Please keep us updated. Possible pictures?
Quote from: David Hall on May 20, 2020, 04:28:55 PM
Dominick you got a space on the Long Hall anytime, you can even invite Wayne, (as long as he behaves)...
David!!
LOVE to go Salmon fishing!!!!! I have a custom-made Salmon rod from Dominick that needs its inaugural run.
AND I too will cover the gas, bait, and have Jennifer make us all lunches for the day.
And like the sign on Gary-the-BUTT MAN's USS Maiko, this boat doesn't run on THANKS.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/32/7588_20_05_20_9_44_30_327241333.jpeg)
Any time... Anywhere just let me know when to show up.
Wayne
great sign Wayne, perfect when I get back on the water we can pick a date.
Pictures? I got em! Ill post them too.
The top picture is an aftermarket SS wet elbow manufactured in Wa State and very high quality. But if you overheat it by taking the water away and then dump cold water inside it, you end up with this those lines are all cracks. And what this is, is a turbocharger eating invisible demon. Nothing shows on the outside to warn of potential problems until it's to late, unless you simply remove it for an inspection. I didn't since I had only just installed the part a few years ago, It was in my mind, a safe system component.
The second pic is the intake, compressor side of the turbocharger, it should be clean and shiny. The soot extended all the way into the intercooler and the engine.
The third pic is the exhaust side, see the hole above the flange? It extends 1/3 of the way around the flange, the heavy corrosion is the tell tale indicator of sea water intrusion.
The vanes only turn under pressure from a socket wrench now, they should spin freely with nothing more than my fingers. Totally loss.
Can't see the hole in the turbo in that pic but you can in this one.
The front half of the turbo is probably fine, you might be able to save a wad of cash by just replacing the turbine housing?
Compressor side. Wasted. Yanmar lists the exhaust side housing at $1989.00 just for the housing, I'm pretty sure the shaft bearings and seals would likely need replacing also, by the time I piece it all back together it would cost the same or more than the brand new one.
David!!
AND I too will cover the gas, and this boat doesn't run on THANKS.
Wayne
[/quote]
Wayne, you're too kind. Only thing I can say is David might not like it if you put gas in his diesel engines !! :D :D
Exactly Ted, NO gas in the Diesel engine. Here's the other crazy thing, last year the boat seemed like it was overloaded, I figured I had added to much gear, so I re propped the drive, dropping 2" pitch from 22"-20" Now it appears my turbo wasn't working during that whole endeavor so???? What do you suppose is going to happen with the new turbo on there spooling up? I'm guessing I will find myself underpropoed and hitting WOT RPM a bit early. I did keep my old props so I can swap back if needed. Check out the new turbo. This one is OEM but made and distributed here in America through a joint venture between IHI and an American firm. There's a Chinese version that sells for 1/3 the price but this is the real thing made by the original equipment provider.
Quote from: David Hall on May 21, 2020, 02:28:56 AM
Compressor side. Wasted. Yanmar lists the exhaust side housing at $1989.00 just for the housing, I'm pretty sure the shaft bearings and seals would likely need replacing also, by the time I piece it all back together it would cost the same or more than the brand new one.
WOW, nearly 2 grand for the turbine housing... must be all the water jacketing and that business. Over in performance car land (ugh, another money pit) $500 is a lot to spend on a turbine housing.
Mind you, I feel like it's still got a fair bit of the "Marine = 150% cost" thing going on.
No doubt the " Marine Part" is in play, plus there is an additional "Yanmar part" thing adding even more to the cost. A good example is. Yanmar is a division of Toyota, they built a 6 cylinder diesel powered land cruiser. The engine was designated HG1 or something like that. Short story is, this light truck engine was "Marinized" by Toyota's Yanmar marine division and sold as the 6LP 315hp turbo diesel. It is the engine that is installed in my boat.
All parts for this motor, except the marine coolers, are made by Toyota and branded and sold by Yanmar.
Oil filter $19.00 Toyota PN, $68.00 Yanmar PN
Timing set, belt and tensioner Toyota PN $89.00. Yanmar PN $254.00
Fuel filter Toyota $34.00. Yanmar $80.00
Turbocharger Toyota IHI. $2500. Yanmar $4000
Mixing elbow Aftermarket $400. Yanmar $900
All these parts are made by the same companies. I tried to use the Toyota PN to order my timing set. They emailed me back asking for the VIN on the vehicle this was to be used on. I responded that it doesn't matter what a I do with it. They emailed me back sayiing my order has been cancelled. I was stuck and had to order the Yanmar Parts, which arrived and all packaged in Toyota labeled plastic packs.
So yes absolutely they get you coming and going.
Interesting. Wonder what's up with that. Some kinda warranty(marine vessel vs passenger vehicle)deal? A straight-up rip off? Always thought Toyota was one of the better ones.
The boating industry overall has this attitude, if it's a part for a boat the price is double, you should see what airplanes are like! Even worse.
I now have everything prepped onboard to install the new turbo and elbow, swapped out my air cooler with my spare, it was oil and soot contaminated and needs another good cleaning even though I only just installed it last year. I keep spare coolers for everything then rebuild them at my leisure and box them up and into my shed. I swap them out every two years weather they need it or not, same with my raw seawater pump.
I'm held up waiting for the main turbo to exhaust manifold gasket and replacement nuts bolts and studs, some copper crush washers for the oil feed and return lines, I really hoped they would be here today but no luck, looks like next Tuesday will be my next best chance. My mail lady pulled up and stopped in front of my house and brought out several small packages as I watched her she looked up and said sorry nothing for you today. Darn it! I was all excited.
Quote from: David Hall on May 22, 2020, 01:00:50 AM
All these parts are made by the same companies. I tried to use the Toyota PN to order my timing set. They emailed me back asking for the VIN on the vehicle this was to be used on. I responded that it doesn't matter what a I do with it. They emailed me back sayiing my order has been cancelled. I was stuck and had to order the Yanmar Parts, which arrived and all packaged in Toyota labeled plastic packs.
So yes absolutely they get you coming and going.
That is so rude. If you have the part numbers, maybe see if partsouq.com has what you need - I buy a lot of parts from there and they're cents on the dollar compared to buying from the local dealerships, even with shipping from Dubai.
Shipping from Dubai might make it cost prohibitive. But I'll take a look at them anyway. I have had instances where I ordered something from Europe with shipping and still less than I would have paid from Yanmar.
I ran a pair of diesel Volvo's in an old Blackfin years ago, it seems Toyota has been to the Swedish school of parts pricing. Two groups of people became very important to me. The "real" auto parts pros, people that have been at the counter for years, not the pimply faced kids selling air fresheners at the chain stores. Brought in my pricy Volvo air filter, he disappeared with it and returned a few minutes later with a Fram, wrong color scheme, but a fraction of the cost, oil and fuel filters too. The independent diesel auto mechanic, back then my guy was primarily a Peugeot guru. Today maybe a Benz or VW specialist. They know the little independent shops two states over that do injector rebuilds or square away sick turbo's, and maybe have an old housing you need in the stockroom pile. It doesn't hurt to show up at ten to five with a cold twelve pack. The injector guy loaned me a home made tool to remove the injectors, Volvo thought the same tool albeit a little prettier was worth a grand. I gratefully returned it, with the injectors to be rebuilt, in a box including a few etchings of dead Presidents. One last thing, a pre go Checklist. Compared to the old diesels my new one running the etec's is pretty short, fuel, oil in tank, engines down, go. Good Luck!
this single engine is all I can keep up with and ive not been doing a great job of that it appears. I can only imagine having to do everything twice, especially paying for everything twice, Ive read stories on boatdiesel.com guys with dual engines, same model as mine and same exact problem. 7K to replace turbos, plus mixing elbows and all the little things that go along with it. I have concentrated on the raw water cooling system, keeping it pristine I even installed the new mixing elbow just 4 years ago expecting it to last for ten years trouble free and I ignored the turbo, even when I noticed excessive rust starting to build on it, I thought well it is 14 years old but the elbow is new so cant be a problem there. when I noticed my RPMs were not where they should be I thought it was a prop issue and repropped the drive dropping 2" in pitch to get them back up. Glad I kept my old set of props now, I may be putting them back on. a major misdiagnosis and completely missed the real problem. If I had installed a pyrometer and a boost gauge I would have seen the problem when early on and likely would have saved the turbo. I still haven't found a good place to mount a gauge for them but I am looking at reconfiguring my console to make room. its a tight area with a lot of things cluttering it up. Its a painful process especially to the wallet but I am consoled by the fact that I did discover it on dry land, in front of my house and not 50-100 miles offshore I am safe and nobody was injured or lost at sea. I can fix it at my leisure and not once have I felt the despair of wondering if or when help might arrive.
..."not the pimply faced kids selling air fresheners at the chain stores". HA! I love those kids, but only for the entertainment value. "Sir, my computer isn't telling me which part it is..." Here we have Napa Auto Parts guys that are moderately good, but the writing's on the wall as there are 2 new chain stores right next to each other! What kinda business model is that?
David,
You can get remote sensors that are bluetooth and monitor them with a pda or phone. What you mentioned will work too.
maybe it is time to yank out that yanmar and put in one of these fine tuned workhorses
(https://previews.123rf.com/images/teerapon1979/teerapon19791808/teerapon1979180800044/110346363-traditional-thai-boats-on-the-beach-thailand.jpg)
;D
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh........the final solution to the wet exhaust issues!!!!!
maybe it is time to yank out that yanmar and put in one of these fine tuned workhorses.
doesn't look real comfortable for nasty weather but sure would save money on parts. probably swap out the entire engine for the cost of one turbocharger.
If you are gonna go this route, get the real thing: http://longtailboatkkk.com/ (http://longtailboatkkk.com/)
If you have a neglected lawnmower lying around, you can just buy the kit without a motor.
Be prepared to lose you hearing.
lose what? what was that? lol
Well, we have made it better
https://www.mudbuddy.com/
that is a cool little setup, I do not think I want to go 50 miles offshore in it but backwoods swamp donkey hunting looks fantastic. not to many swamps out where I live though.
I have the new turbo mounted and primed with fresh oil, the new wet elbow is installed, the fresh air cooler is on, the intake air box cleaned serviced and new filter element. fresh oil and filter, fresh coolant, all hoses and lines in place. I am ready for start up. Im concerned about the levels of soot I found in the throat of my intake manifold and the soot I cannot see that is in the combustion chambers and exhaust manifold. Soot that I cannot easily do anything about. I tried to consult with a yanmar specialist but I have been unable to speak with anyone knowledgeable as of yet. From everything I have read about this very same kind of failure and refit I think I have done everything reasonable and prudent. Many people just swap out the turbo and elbow and call it good. swapping out the soot contaminated air cooler and cleaning and servicing the air intake box and pipes were an easy extra for me. I have a full set of coolers for my engine and I service and clean and test them myself then box them up and store them. Every two years I swap them out and repeat the process. It takes me all of about 20 minutes to remove and replace the air cooler.
I am going to proceed with firing the engine up later today. and see how that goes.
I might just be a nervous Nellie about the soot but I don't want anything to break in my engine, that is one thing on the boat I cannot afford to lose.
She's up and running, engine sounds really strong. First launch next Saturday. Work is still getting in the way of my fishing.
https://youtu.be/ipYl9YPoPVE
Coooooool! I wanna be on a boat way off-shore with a details oriented, workin it close to perfection-captain like yourself. You never know, on a commercial boat once, the steering broke 10 minutes after launch and we never made it outta San Diego harbor(good thing I guess) till the next day.
this is only one system on the boat, and granted it's maybe the most important single system there are others I have neglected and need to put my attention on, mostly corrosion showing on fittings and electrical connections, the head is not working, window seals and rubber shields are all dried up and cracking. It never ends. Gotta go after them one at a time and keep after them, I'm trailered now and kept in dry storage in an RV lot. For 14 years this boat sat in the harbor 24/7 except during maintenance, but it was never out of the water for more than a week or two at any time. Now I can get things right and they will stay that way much longer. A good quality cover will help me to keep it clean and cut down on the UV damage.
But next on the list, is FISH.
Me and Rob had all we could stand from all the insanity in the world today so we decided that we would replace the trim tab actuator next week, fix the head one of these days, or maybe not. regardless we needed to get on the water its been far to long, the new turbocharger, wet elbow and air cooler were in, oil and filter changed and a full coolant change, we launched Saturday around 0830 from Moss and headed out the jaws. wind was up and sheep were everywhere, the angry sea fighting itself with winds from the north and the west whipping around making the sea like a big washing machine, could have picked a better day for certain but this was the day we had. boat was running great so decided to push into the wind and bring the Long Hall up on plane and open the throttle a bit. everything fine at 2500 RPM and around 13MPH, engine temperature was steady around 60C. could have rode around all day at that speed at least it seemed like it. pushed it up to 3000 RPM, you could hear the turbocharger whistling, then the engine temp started to creep up to 70 then 80 then 90 and alarms went off, backed off the throttle and temp began to fall, within 15 minutes it was back to normal, so we ran straight out into the wind shut down to idle and let the wind and sea push us back towards the jaws while we drift fished the bottom hoping for a halibut or a lost salmon. we did this over and over again until we couldn't keep our feet, the sea had had enough of us for one day and encouraged us to leave, so we did. Back home, scratching my head while running through possible causes for this condition, starting this morning with removing the thermostat and testing it, if nothing is found there Im pulling the new air cooler I installed, I bought it off ebay last year and it looked to be in excellent condition and freshly serviced from all outward appearances but I did not open it up and confirm the cooling core passages were clean and clear of debris and did not pressure test it before installing it.
seems sometimes the more I do to prevent problems the more the problems do to prevent me. I believe this issue goes back to the same overheat issue I was chasing last year when I determined that the coolant cap was damaged and did not maintain proper system pressure. Now I believe it may have been a contributing factor but it was not the source of the problem.
But first I have to see if I can repair the microwave in the kitchen, Heating water for coffee yesterday it quit working just went blank, I will replace the fuse, if that fixes it I will be happy, if not, then the house gets a new one.
Thanks Dave,, baots can b a pain in thewallet. Sounds like a story from my past. Constantly working on the boat, my good wife thinks I love the boat more than her! My Volvo duo prop was gas and carburetor issues, and ignition, All bad are saltwater, sitting is also bad.
Both were bad enough and then heat exchanger and hoses. I finally got rid of it.
Now with an outboard I just put in ⛽️. Waay less maintenance and easier to find parts.
When it's broke just send it to a shop. Butt it still costs money 💰.
I'm hoping that you're almost there and get your use out of it.
took me less than 30 minutes to replace the microwave fuse, clean everything up and get it back into service this morning. Indeed I can relate, my wife is convinced I love the boat more than her, and shes okay with that? Hmmmm? yeah right, but that's what she says anyway. she knows I spend more money on it than anything else and shes learned never to ask just how much I spent. She really doesn't want to know for any reason other than to see how much I should spend on her, When I bought the boat in August 2008, for Her, on our 35th anniversary she didn't complain? although I have come to realize in the past 12 years that shes owned her boat that she really doesn't like it, she never goes on it and never works on it? I do everything I can to keep it in great shape for her but still shes just not into it. she did go out on it often with me when the kids still lived at home, no wait? that was the other boat, I sold it 6 years after buying her the new boat, since the kids have all moved on married and have families of their own she likes having the house to herself and I have become very fond of her boat so things have a way of working themselves out over the Long Hall. who knew?
If you've overheated the motor previously and it has strange hard-to-find overheating issues I would be doing a TK test to make sure the head gasket is still good.
Quote from: boon on June 07, 2020, 11:47:37 PM
If you've overheated the motor previously and it has strange hard-to-find overheating issues I would be doing a TK test to make sure the head gasket is still good.
I have not done a TK test but sure wouldn't hurt. That is a good idea I think I will order one of those kits up and have it on hand just in case what I did yesterday doesn't improve the condition. I have done a system pressure test and it holds 13psi for 30 minutes with no detectable loss of pressure. Although it has gotten hotter than normal I have managed to keep it at or below 200 degrees f and when it has touched 185-190 I throttle down quickly to idle and it cooled down to normal range in minutes.
I am hoping I found the culprit. I pulled the thermostat and tested it several times along with a brand new one in hot water. The first time I tested the old one it did not open until over 200 F. I repeated the test several times using both an infrared and analog thermometers. every time I repeated the test the opening temperature dropped a bit but after 5 tests it was still not opening at all until 185 f. spec says 158-162 and fully opened at 175. these are also three way T stats, they have two springs and two valves, the inner one normally open allows bypass fresh water to circulate within the closed cooling system, allowing the engine to heat up to normal operating temperature 160-190 per owners manual, mine normally runs right around 165-180f no matter what the engine load is. the primary valve opens between 158-162 and closes the bypass valve forcing hot system coolant through the heat exchangers. I believe my old T stat was stuck closed and it took near boiling water to open it so I replaced it with a fresh OEM spec one and refilled the coolant system. Im going to make another sea trial with it and see how it performs. I am hopeful I haven't caused any long term internal damage.
Dave, I hope you are going to be good with the new t stat. I've had similar issues with these in automobiles. It's usually the simplest thing and inexpensive to fix on your boat or car, track tor, etc.
Hopefully nothing got cooked and also failed. Best of luck. 🤑
Quote from: David Hall on June 08, 2020, 03:50:33 PM
Quote from: boon on June 07, 2020, 11:47:37 PM
If you've overheated the motor previously and it has strange hard-to-find overheating issues I would be doing a TK test to make sure the head gasket is still good.
I have not done a TK test but sure wouldn't hurt. That is a good idea I think I will order one of those kits up and have it on hand just in case what I did yesterday doesn't improve the condition. I have done a system pressure test and it holds 13psi for 30 minutes with no detectable loss of pressure. Although it has gotten hotter than normal I have managed to keep it at or below 200 degrees f and when it has touched 185-190 I throttle down quickly to idle and it cooled down to normal range in minutes.
I am hoping I found the culprit. I pulled the thermostat and tested it several times along with a brand new one in hot water. The first time I tested the old one it did not open until over 200 F. I repeated the test several times using both an infrared and analog thermometers. every time I repeated the test the opening temperature dropped a bit but after 5 tests it was still not opening at all until 185 f. spec says 158-162 and fully opened at 175. these are also three way T stats, they have two springs and two valves, the inner one normally open allows bypass fresh water to circulate within the closed cooling system, allowing the engine to heat up to normal operating temperature 160-190 per owners manual, mine normally runs right around 165-180f no matter what the engine load is. the primary valve opens between 158-162 and closes the bypass valve forcing hot system coolant through the heat exchangers. I believe my old T stat was stuck closed and it took near boiling water to open it so I replaced it with a fresh OEM spec one and refilled the coolant system. Im going to make another sea trial with it and see how it performs. I am hopeful I haven't caused any long term internal damage.
As long as you always caught it a little bit of heat in the motor isn't a terrible thing. My automotive mechanic actually recommends periodically getting things a little over normal operating temperature, it helps prevent things seizing up. Sounds very much like you have a wonky thermostat, hopefully the issue is resolved.
Chasing heat issues can be a pain. Hope you get it figured out.
Scott
It's the waiting a week to get off work and also waiting a week to have decent sea conditions to get some sea time just to find out how it's going to run. We got mixed seas and strong steady winds with gusts and wind waves, it's not going to be any fun out on big blue for the next five days. I guess I replace the head pump assembly and maybe my new trim tab actuator will show up and I can take the bungee chord and bailing wire off the tab. Took me only a few hours to drain the coolant, test and replace the TStat filter the coolant and refill the system, did a run test off garden hose and earmuffs but without any load this engine just will not heat up, so no way I can make the thermostat open up gotta have a load on the engine.
Been awhile since I posted my results. It was NOT the Tstat, engine continued to have temp spike at 2800 RPM . I have since found the culprit and it was an odd one which I have never seen nor heard of but in a nutshell heres what I found. the raw seawater circulating pump impeller was spun. the inner brass splined shaft that is driven off the engine pump gear had come loose from the rubber part of the impeller. it was still tight enough to operate the pump at seeds up to 2500RPM, above that the rubber stopped turning, the pump stopped pumping and the shaft just spun like crazy, and of course the temperatures went up. So what caused it? one thought is this. In an effort to "save Money" I opted to purchase several aftermarket impellers which are advertised as direct OEM replacements, made right here in the USA and carrys a 5yr warranty against defects. Turns out this $16 impeller saved me $34 over the cost of a Johnson OEM impeller. So after replacing the cheap one with the real thing, my boat is back and running like a thoroughbred. Its awesome how fast it revs and the new turbo kicks in I can cruise across the sea in 4-6' swells doing 22knts all day long and the temp guage never moves out of the safe zone. I may do a help video on the dangers of aftermarket impellers soon since I wasnt able to find anything there myself while trying to diagnose the problem it might help others down the road.
So now that the boat is running strong I am back to doing abit of upgrades. todays peoject is installing Flir M232 thermal imaging camera
The water pump impeller probably got hot also when the sea cock was closed and broke the bond between brass and rubber .
David,
I have learned the hard way to buy OEM parts when it comes to engine and other mechanical.
I have had the same costly experience of aftermarket parts failing.
To save $$$, I buy OEM parts from high volume obscure suppliers who discount them deeply.
I am glad you got it figured out.
oldmanjoe, Can we figure out what is the tamp range that part is designed to work in?
I think you can find that information on the spec sheet for the make and model of the impeller.
Ive never seen a spec sheet with the impeller kits and i have tried looking it up online but so far nothing. whatever the safe temp is you can be sure its well above safe engine operating temp.
That makes sense that any part needs to withstand the maximum operating temp of the engine.
Here is what more likely happened . Sea cock is closed , there is still water in the pump housing . Pump spinning , the suction side of the pump is max out .
That puts the rubber in hard contact with housing . The water that was in the housing is now thrown out and what little stayed is now at boiling point .
Something has to give , most of the times the rubber vane break off , sometimes the hub breaks bond and spins . Very much like a boat prop break bond with hub , you go slow you will go a little , throttle up and instance slip too much load .
That is very likely exactly what happened, nothing ever got severely overheated because in addition to drawing water from the seacock, the system also draws water through the sterndrive. That is how the pump is kept wet enough for the engine to be idled on dry land at speeds never to exceed 1300RPM.
Bit enough of the problem check out the new improvements done this past week.
I found a deal substantially below market by $600.00 less than anywhere else. The seller owns and operates a security systems design and installation company. they had a Flir M232 left over from a recent project and offered it up BNIB never opened all original with full factory warranty for a price I could not resist and I couldn't help myself I had to pull the trigger, I can always live to regret it at a later date. For now Ill just enjoy it. I had to update the O.S. on my Raymarine gs to make it compatible but that was fairly straightforward. linked it to my verizon Wifi hotspot and downloaded the new software version right to the MFD. I hate doing that as it seems there is always some piece of equipment that doesnt like the new version and ends up creating more problems than it fixes so I tend to stick with the tried ad true versions. This time I had to update in order to get the camera to work, the great news is I am able to pan and tilt and zoom the camera from my existing, (yet already out dated) RMK9 remote keypad. My next update is going to be a new sonar, the Airmar R199 I have was the top o the line in its day but sonar has made incredible leaps in technology in the past 5yrs and the new imaging and CE programming software is pretty incredible. for example say I run over a bait ball I have to set a waypoint at the time I am on it. new tech would allow me to scroll back through my sonar history, find the bait ball I passed 30 minutes ago and place a waypoint on it. it will mean another update on the software side to be compatible. by the tie I am done it will all be outdated and no longer supported.
I found the night pic from the Airmar R199 unit here after I replied to your other post.
Nice, I need one now, I mean I want one, time to sell some blood!
Sonar - Look at Garmin units and side sonar, they are good value and cost 1/2 or less than comparable Hummingbird or other fufu brands.
You can have a TTH transducer for high speed and an external one for side sonar etc. They even have a forward looking sonar for those giant bait ball ahead of ya. I wonder what a 200 YFT will look like on the forward looking sonar ;D
yes, WIFI update is the way to go,
Would be great to find out what one looks like on there.
David, good to see pic of your boat. Guess we are kind of different. I love the old Yanmars that had yet to be cluttered with electrical, decision making stuff. The newer stuff is by far, more efficient... Jeff
my engine is entirely mechanical, there is no computer, no monitoring other than sensors and idiot lights. that is why I can work on it myself. its a great motor with many thousands of hours left in it all i have to do is maintain it.
Dave,
I see you have a diesel outdrive setup as does a pal of mine having refitted a straight 6 Merc Conversion to a 26 Blackwatch. He fishes hard and is at about the 5000 hour mark, but there is a little aftermarket gizmo he's fitted to the leg he swears by. It is a totally passive water scoop that when under way at speed automatically bathes the now dry and exposed top half of the leg with cool sea water. When I get back to Mass next month I'd be happy to send along a few pics if he hasn't launched yet.
Back on the first page the was an exchange about getting paid for gas etc. from guests. Dad was a 6 pack guy for years, and was of the opinion, probably correct, that if reimbursement is pre negotiated prior to a trip the USCG may consider you a "For Hire" vessel, subject to the liabilities, licensing, and responsibilities thereof. Dropping a C-note on the owner to "But the wife a nice dinner" afterwards may be different. I've never researched it as the folks I take are are my guests, and although pricey fuel I have found is one of the least costly line items of owning a boat.
Thinking about the "marine markup" on parts, salvage yards have become quite sophisticated. A pal that owns a Toyota store feels they're better than the new product warehouses on delivery, getting him stuff in in usually a few days. LKQ is a big player and probably won't be so worried about your serial number. A possible option if you know the cross ref's and are out of warrantee. Maybe a Toyota guy, or real parts store will be happy to sell you recycled truck parts.