Does anyone have schematics for the DAM Champion 700b? The anti-reverse dog appears to be 2 separate pieces and requires no spring?? How do you think these reels stack up against the Garcia 5000's... seems to be the typical DAM quality. PS, I hope you are all doing great in these crazy times!
These reels are every bit as good as Abu or Daiwa round reels. 8)
Schematic http://schematics.mikesreelrepair.com/albums/userpics/10001/Dam_Quick_700_Series_1.pdf
Parts List http://schematics.mikesreelrepair.com/albums/userpics/10001/Dam_Quick_700_Series_2.pdf
Thanks Mo! Hopefully I can get this reel back on the water.
Mike's right -- excellent reels. Just as the ABU's are. Daiwas are also similar -- probably slightly lower in quality -- but tough to notice the difference.
Here is a quick schematic and parts listing.
I have most of the parts for these. They are the 145 numbers.
Best,
Fred
The look nice!
So what's the difference between the standard and the "B" models?
Just color? Or gear ratios?
Fred, I have a bunch of ABU's, Presidents and Millionaires but this is my first Quick. The Quick will get a good workout and comparison test after it's together...going to be a blast! If I need ANY parts for this reel I will let you know... You're thee guy. I believe the differences are narrow spool models?
Yeah, there are narrow and regular width's in the 600-700-800 models.
To answer Chads question -- the difference between a regular model and a "B" model is that the "B" has bearings -- the regular numbers have "slide bearings" -- (sleeves).
Both are very good.
These are some of the toughest bait-casters around. You won't likely need any parts -- unless something has been tweaked or distorted. And with the exception of springs -- most parts can be put right back into service with a little adjustment.
Best,
Fred
Well, it's all cleaned and ready to use! The previous owner apparently used recycled old grease that he scraped from the underside of an junkyard bulldozers crank case..lol This old Quick is super smooth...thanks much guys! I love this group!!!!
Very cool, thanks for all the info Fred!!
Quote from: mark Hill on May 20, 2020, 06:57:30 PM
Well, it's all cleaned and ready to use! The previous owner apparently used recycled old grease that he scraped from the underside of an junkyard bulldozers crank case..lol This old Quick is super smooth...thanks much guys! I love this group!!!!
Show us a photo, Mark -- or hold it a little closer to your computer. 😄😄😄
We need to see your good work!
Best,
Fred
Here are a couple of pictures... Next time I will remember to take some pictures before I totally reassembled a reel. I have some reels that sit on a shelf and just look pretty, because they are in such great shape...but 90+% of my reels get used.
Good work, Mark!
Looks like new!
Those are impressive reels both inside and outside -- in material selection, simplicity, and engineering.
Very smooth and powerful.
Best, Fred
Thanks Fred, that means a lot coming from you.
were there any L/H or bait(clicker) versions?
thks
Quote from: philaroman on May 21, 2020, 05:53:27 AM
were there any L/H or bait(clicker) versions?
thks
No left hands. No clickers.
Silver or black -- 3 sizes width-wise -- 2 versions with either ball bearings or bushing bearings.
Simple, overbuilt, well engineered.
Due to the typical D.A.M. Engineering and selection of materials that work well with each other -- the tolerances are designed to stay tight -- even after 40 or 50 Years.
Best,
Fred
Would it be ok to revive this thread for my recent exploits regarding this reel?
I got a pair of reels yesterday, but each were incomplete. The idea was to put one good reel together. Turned out that almost worked out. But here goes:
One was mostly there and basically functioning, but had a few incomplete. The body of the one that appears to be a parts junkyard (without the handle) was actually slightly better than the other.
The working reel had some sort of black grease, making me think it was some sort of graphite grease (?). The better body and gears where thankfully cleaner.
Basically I moved the centrifugal weights, anti-reverse latch and free-spool cog from the other reel. Lubed with grease and oil.
I put a new handle on (I had it on hand [punny, huh?]) because the handle I have is bent slightly and the knob pin is loose in the handle. I didn't want to mix up some JB Weld in the house (fumes, and too cold outside) so that may wait. While cleaning the anti-reverse gear follower thing (looks like made of copper) it broke -- seems age made it very brittle.
The drag spring appears to be the same as in the D.A.M Quick 331N (my experience) spool knob. I wonder...
I think the lever/knob on the handle-side faceplate is to prevent the free-spool button. Is that what this is for?
I also could not find when this would have been made. The reel looks different slightly than the schematics, perhaps newer.
I don't have line on it but from other research this reel has about 20~21 inch-per-turn retrieve, and I think my calculation puts it roughly 18 inch. The sticker on the sideplates both say high-speed (so that would be 4.7 ratio?).
Quote from: dlrider on February 10, 2021, 12:11:54 AM
I don't have line on it but from other research this reel has about 20~21 inch-per-turn retrieve, and I think my calculation puts it roughly 18 inch. The sticker on the sideplates both say high-speed (so that would be 4.7 ratio?).
Yes, you are right on —
Retrieve is 20.87 inches per crank, high speed gears in this reel put the ratio at 1:4.6.
Your 700B has ball bearings — the 700 has slide (bushings) bearings & a gear ratio of 1:3.5.
Great job!
Best, Fred
Do these reels have steel gears???
Can they be used for braid, say 20lb test braid???
Eugene
The Button on the side is for the Flipping Option
Quote from: jigmaster501 on February 10, 2021, 01:13:43 AM
Do these reels have steel gears???
Can they be used for braid, say 20lb test braid???
Eugene
Hi Eugene —
Main is steel, Pinion is brass — with dissimilar metals, the gears are less noisy — and the cheaper gear wears out first (I have never yet seen either one worn out, although I have parts if they ever do).
Braid works good on these — 20 lb. is a good range when using braid on these. Tape the spool arbor and secure the line — so the braid won't slip. I use flex-wrap — or in a pinch, the same tape I use on my Racquetball handle grips.
Best, Fred
Quote from: foakes on February 10, 2021, 01:03:45 AM
Great job!
Best, Fred
Thanks! I don't recall ever having two reels disassembled at once but this was the best way to find what parts were available.
I'm glad to see the revival of this thread! The Champions are very smooth running casting reels. They're your typical vintage (slow and heavy) casting reels...but they're basically trouble free and built to last. Remember back in the day when we overbuilt things so we could pass them down to the next generation of fishermen? I have around 90% of all the reels that I ever bought in my life (hoarder! lol) and I will say that the old round style ABU's, Diawa's, and Shakespeare Sigma 0001's were definitely built like tractors! I do appreciate my modern high speed Shimano's, Daiwa's, Lews etc. but they require much more care...AND the finish wears off the newer reels so fast compared to the old metal anodized and painted round reels.
Do you know where I can find more info on those Sigmas? Relating to the sizes of the different models.
So I got to fooling with "fixing" the anti-reverse for a few days. I first tried soldering the copper follower pieces onto the dog but I couldn't get a bond onto the stainless steel. I found that there is not much tolerance between the ratchet cog (I didn't look up the correct part name, but its the jagged round piece) and the main gear, just a thin fiberglass/plastic washer between. So I decided after butchering the one piece of the follower that the remaining piece would have to do in that small tight space. I superglued (cyanoacrylate) that to the dog and let it harden for a day. It fits in-between nicely and the anti-reverse feature works again. I doubt it will last but so far so good -- I'll keep an eye out for the real part.
Hi David —
Went out this morning through the snow — to the outer shop — where I keep some of the less used parts.
I glassed in and sealed off this little room so that it would not get dusty or mixed up with the metal, wood, or painting areas of the other adjacent shops.
This is where some of the parts are stored that are not used too much — organized them last year into individual part numbers.
If you want a new ratchet pawl (A/R dog) & copper wearing part — just let me know, and I will send them to you at N/C.
Will need to know by tomorrow if you want these — because we are pulling out early Monday for a week at the Coast.
I can drop them off at a Post Office on the way over to San Simeon.
Best,
Fred
OMG Fred! You live in paradise. Nice set up there. Yes, please, if you don't mind, I'd appreciate the part. Thank you very much. (good thing I was still here)
On the way, David —
Are you still in Manassas, VA?
You might just PM me your complete mailing information.
Best, Fred
(Just looked up your address — all done, no issues)
Went out back to practice cast today. Basically it wouldn't backlash but not quite as far as my Ambassadeur Mag reel, which did backlash. Does anyone use without the spool weights?
Hey Fred,
I picked one of these up at the rod and gun club swap-meet. It's in very good condition but the oil and grease are like glue. The oil was actually the worst and it seemed to polymerize into plastic. I used the ultra-sound and got it very clean but I'm struggling with the cross-worm assembly. Is there a secret procedure for reassembling this? I seem to be struggling with the 'D' shaped hole and nylon bushing. I'm assuming the notched end of the guide tube goes in the shaped hole but the bushing must go in first to clear the flat side of the hole? When I do the guide tube first, I can't get the bushing in, and if I put the bushing in first, I cant get the guide tube to nest into the 'D' shaped hole. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
-Mike
Don't know, Mike —
These are pretty straight-forward bait-casters designed for easy take-apart.
They generally just go back together easily — unless something is missing.
If you are stuck — I'll post some photos of the procedure tomorrow.
There is a box in the outer shop of around 70 pounds of these in different levels of disassembly — from completes to skeletons. Plus I have 5 drawers of all of the parts as NOS.
If we can't figure it out by tomorrow — you can just send it to me for reassembly.
Best, Fred
Quote from: PacRat on June 29, 2021, 05:26:10 AM
Hey Fred,
I picked one of these up at the rod and gun club swap-meet. It's in very good condition but the oil and grease are like glue. The oil was actually the worst and it seemed to polymerize into plastic. I used the ultra-sound and got it very clean but I'm struggling with the cross-worm assembly. Is there a secret procedure for reassembling this? I seem to be struggling with the 'D' shaped hole and nylon bushing. I'm assuming the notched end of the guide tube goes in the shaped hole but the bushing must go in first to clear the flat side of the hole? When I do the guide tube first, I can't get the bushing in, and if I put the bushing in first, I cant get the guide tube to nest into the 'D' shaped hole. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
-Mike
Generally, my method is to remove the tail & head plate assemblies. Then you have easy access to both sides of the frame for installing the LW system parts. Then install the tail-plate, spool, and head-plate — and it is complete.
Let us know if more is needed. You may have a part missing or tweaked — because you generally have all of this figured out and dialed in pretty well.
Best, Fred
My experience though somewhat limited in comparison to other Reels is that on these the Tube which houses the Level Wind shaft will install two ways however will only work right one way with the plastic insert .
Fred. It looks like you need someone to assemble quite a few reels! ;D
Mission accomplished! I'll try do describe this to help others but regrettably I did not take photos (too much of a challenge to do both). The biggest challenge is dealing with the tight tolerances between the bushing (figure no. 31, part no.145-220) and the frame. They call this a bearing but I call it a bushing to avoid confusion. This part must go into the frame on the 'D' shaped hole from the outside. This is because the groove in the bushing engages with the flat on the 'D'. Here's where it gets tricky; the tolerance is very tight between the groove and the thickness of the frame. Even though the bushing snaps into the 'D', it will not be centered enough to allow clearance for the guide tube. It's very important that the guide tube seats correctly or you will not get the E-clip on the end of the cross worm (figure 49).
So here's the trick: Snap the bushing into place in the 'D' hole. Then use a punch or screwdriver inserted into the bushing to push the groove onto the flat of the 'D'. You need to make certain the clearance around the circumference of the bushing is concentric and will allow for the guide tube to be inserted and seated. You will know when it's right. Be gentle with the frame at this point because the bushing is held in place by friction between the flat of the 'D' wedged into the groove of the bushing. If you knock the frame sharply against the bench-top the bushing may pop out and you will have to re-seat it.
Now put the line-guide (figure no. 2) on the guide tube (figure no. 50) and carefully insert it into the frame with the guide tube going around the bushing and into the frame. The notch on the end of the guide tube corresponds with the flat of the 'D'. If all is done correctly you will feel a slight but satisfying click as these parts fall into place. Now insert the cross worm from the opposite side and make certain that the end of the cross worm extends enough to fit the washer and E-clip on the end. At this point you can drop the pawl into the line guide and screw the cap on.
This assembly is a bit of a pain but it must be this way (exacting tolerances) to keep the parts accurately aligned, yet loose enough to function without causing additional mechanical friction during casting (because the line guide does not disengage for casting).
Thank you for the assistance Fred. Much appreciated!
-Mike
Good work, Mike!
Best, Fred
I ended up putting an Ambassadeur handle on it. The lock screw hole on the handle is stripped. It didn't feel odd coming out. I was sad because it was the last part to go back on. I sort of like the Ambassadeur handle because it works well with my style of fishing where I'm almost never looking at the reel. Two knobs are harder to miss.
The centrifugal weights were missing so I tossed in a couple of the plastic ones from an Ambassadeur also. They look smaller than the DAM Quick weights but I'll give them a whirl.
I only had one left-over part and that was a small copper washer. It doesn't show on the schematic. I could find two places where it might fit. Either inside the cap that holds the pawl or under the screw that holds the gear sleeve. I chose the gear sleeve but either way it's easy to change without opening the reel.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_30_06_21_6_06_29_352711347.jpeg)
(https://alantani.com/gallery/35/14769_30_06_21_6_06_21_352702421.jpeg)
One more time!
I just (re)-discovered a 700 in my reel drawer that I had got at a tag seal 15-20 years ago. It's minty and I was thinking of loading it with 20# braid and using it a "guest" fluke/porgy/seabass rig.
- Is it worth changing the drag to carbons?
- Can the bushings be changed to bearings? Is it even worth doing?
Also the large button on the ride side prevents putting the reel into free spool, why? What's the meaning of the large and small white dots it moves between?
thanks,
Rob
IMG_2524.JPGIMG_2525.JPG
IMG_2526.JPG
Found my answers in another thread except for washers. Worth changing to CF?
I think that ball bearings can be installed in place of the bushing type bearings, Rob —-
CF can be installed if thin enough.
Neither one of these changes will improve the reel too much.
IMO, not worth it —- but that is up to you. If you want to do the bearings —- I could check to see if it would work or not —- if you were serious about doing it.
As a matter of fact —- in some of these types of reels, bushings actually are more durable —- particularly in the salt.
White dots have been added by someone. I guess as a reminder which direction to slide the free-spool lockout so that the thumb release cannot be activated by mistake.
Best, Fred