I have a 2016 crestliner, I took back to the place I bought i from to get sonar installed and onboard battery charger, the fine guys at the dealership flipped up the job the first time and had to take it back to get it corrected.
Fast forward a year plus.
Last time I took the boat out I forgot to hook up the dash power cable, doh.
This time with dash power cable connected here are the issues:
1. No horn
2. no bilge power (worried)
3. Sonar has power
4. Speedo does not work
5. Front light works
6. Nav lights - will check tomorrow early morning.
Setup:
Power from battery comes over to under the dash to a bus (photo coming soon)
I am pretty there is a fuse box there.
The wiring harness seems to a standard crestliner harness with speaker cables in it also, (my boat does not have a stereo).
I am not sure how I will figure out which one is the horn and other accessory power cables.
Doggone it Shibly! I really thought after finding the loose wire that everything was going to "shipshape". I am hoping that you will find some blown fuses in the fuse panel...
Failing that...hopefully a loose or bad ground? I know you want to get out there before the season is over so let's get this figured out! - john
Quote from: Gobi King on September 25, 2020, 02:41:45 AM
I am not how I will figure out which one is the horn and other accessory power cables.
With a VOM, a piece of wire and some alligator clips you can check connectivity from each accessory to the fuse box.
-steve
I would take it to another good local shop that specializes in Marine electronics.
Any experienced marine electronics shop can troubleshoot These issues quickly and easily.
Get it fixed right and go fishing!
Yes, you can eventually do it yourself, but...
How much time, frustration, fuel, and lost fishing time are you willing to lose? Not to mention the peace of mind in having a solid shop check out your electrical systems for both safety and operation.
Best,
Fred
Shibs, google marine wiring code. not sure what accessories you have on that block but possibly the horn will be coded differently- bilge is brown, speakers gray, etc. Accessories in general have their own color code but it may be helpful and at least you learned some info at the end game. Good luck!
GOOD PLACE TO START and Not Hard to Do
# 1. Always insure that the wires at the Battery/Batteries are Clean by separating each one and visually inspecting them for a bright shine look. Many times accessories are wired in to the terminals on the battery separately from the Main cable .
If no go then Disconnect the positive cable on Battery then
Find the Fuse panel .
Remove fuses one at a time clean and inspect them for continuity as well as clean the edges where the fuse goes back in slots or prongs . I use this (https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/1D262_AS01?hei=536&wid=536&$adapimg$=)to clean my electrical stuff of course with the battery disconnected or power plug removed from outlet on house hold stuffs
Corrosion is a Boats and Auto worst nightmare and can happen overnight and always happens when stored long periods of time .
Also look for a main Ground Terminal or block to which things may be connected and insure that is clean.
Generally this will take care of things and then if you are not going to use the boat for a long time disconnecting the battery will help with corrosion build up (not stop it) but help .
Look for hidden inline fuses.
Speedometer may not be electrical at all. There is a tiny hole on the foot of my Yamaha 250 outboard, forward end, that allows water pressure to send a signal to the speedometer. It has a tendency to get clogged up. Check out the video.
https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=AwrJ61UwAm5fYTwAOSVXNyoA;_ylu=Y29sbwNiZjEEcG9zAzEEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3BpdnM-?p=yamaha+speedometer+not+working&fr2=piv-web&fr=yset_chr_syc_hp-s#id=9&vid=3c2fd3ad0104d3787dacfe7737180ae6&action=view
Quote from: Long Enuff on September 25, 2020, 02:46:32 PM
Speedometer may not be electrical at all. There is a tiny hole on the foot of my Yamaha 250 outboard, forward end, that allows water pressure to send a signal to the speedometer. It has a tendency to get clogged up. Check out the video.
https://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video;_ylt=AwrJ61UwAm5fYTwAOSVXNyoA;_ylu=Y29sbwNiZjEEcG9zAzEEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3BpdnM-?p=yamaha+speedometer+not+working&fr2=piv-web&fr=yset_chr_syc_hp-s#id=9&vid=3c2fd3ad0104d3787dacfe7737180ae6&action=view
yep
Good Info on the speedo pressure thing, I will go and check it right now.
Here are the pics of the bus with fuses.
I am grabbing my multi meter to check voltage.
FYI:
the ground wire marked A in red is the fishfinder ground, this was barely hanging on to the spade as it was pushed it and holding between plastic and metal part. I removed it and pushed it in properly.
closer
thanks guys, I looked up the wiring color guide, and have my multi meter to do some investigating
Fred, unfortunately the shop which did the work is nearly an hour away, plus with covid, all the marine shops are 30 to 40 days in back log. I hear on peace of mind part, hence looked around for a reputable company and one that I store my boat at in winter is a good place but they are super busy with post season stuff already scheduled.
12 v power at horn switch confirmed, need another pair of hand to test the switch and power at horn.
I was going to check the ohms on the horn but my hb multi meter was acting up for ohms.
found hole on mercury for speedo, short screw driver did not find any clog, I will attempt to clean it with a longer drill bit.
Nav lights works.
No corrosion here, boat is nearly new, used only 20 hours or so
Shibs - In your photo of the fuse block it looks like you have leads coming off of terminals that do not have fuses in them (depth finder?). Fred is right about letting someone that knows more about wiring than me look at it :D but maybe we can help you on the Zoom call tomorrow - I know Lee is a wizard with electrical. - john
Hi Gobi,
Sorry your having wiring issues.
I'm near finished wiring my boat after a rebuild, it was an untraceble mess previously.
Unless someone knows how it is all wired up, what your doing is the correct process.
I didn't colour code wire, but I made everything neat, easy to access and follow should a problem occur, specially on the Water.
Keep checking all circuits and all connections, if any are heat shrinked, it may require re doing them.
Look for in line fuses on electrical items, that you may have fused as well at the junction.
Just a case of checking everything, loose Neg/Pos wire from the main feed from the battery, that can always cause issues...
Good luck, let us know what you find
Col
Brew -
The current scenario is the result of taking the boat to the top shop in west michigan owned by the brother a famous pro bass fisherman who has a line of strike king lures named after him.
I plan to own this boat for few years more, unless the power to be has a lottery win for me soon. So I want to know the wiring inside out.
The boat came with a el cheapo lowrance, I had the shop put in 2 hummingbird Onix 10 SIs,
Well that you see in the bus is the result of them CUTTING the lowrance cable, leaving the positive connector there but pulling the fuse and moving it across where they connected the fishfinder in the helm.
But there is ANOTHER fishfisher on the port side, where is the fuse for that?
I traced the wire yesterday and it it not pretty, I need to take a few beta blockers to slow my heart down,
The horn, I can work around by carrying a manual source of sound
Today, I am going to address the bilge and the horn,
Once I fix the bilge and horn,
I am going to work on an upgrade:
Add another battery for the fishfinders and lights, add another bus below the port side console (being midway) and draw off that for stuff like electric reels
Col - I am taking notes and drawing up the current changes to the factory harness. It will be good to have for future, I tend to forget stuff :-)
Quote from: Brewcrafter on September 26, 2020, 04:22:33 AM
:D but maybe we can help you on the Zoom call tomorrow - I know Lee is a wizard with electrical. - john
I was busy yesterday and missed the call. I will be gone for 12 days, I will be on the 8 day LR trip, leaving KF on Thursday but will join in when I get back.
Right after installing a shutoff switch I install a fuse block. Blue Sea System is my preferred manufacture and try to avoid Peco.
They also make ones with less circuits but I like to have the extra for future additions. They have a ground buss.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/33/1583_27_09_20_7_21_13.jpeg)
Selector/Shutoff Switch ACR combo. You can also get them separately.
(https://alantani.com/gallery/33/1583_27_09_20_7_26_49.jpeg)
The company that did the work did a crappy job. All connectors should be heat shrink connectors. The ones I see do not belong on a boat. Remember every electrical component has to be fused.
Keith
Quote from: handi2 on September 27, 2020, 04:24:04 PM
The company that did the work did a crappy job. All connectors should be heat shrink connectors. The ones I see do not belong on a boat. Remember every electrical component has to be fused.
Keith
And preferably glue lined heat shrink. It is not as important on a fresh water boat but it is the sign of a quality wiring job.
Yes, it is bit of a mess,
Thanks for suggesting the shrink wrap.
I bought adhesive shrink wrap of amazon
Update:
- Horn - working now, not sure what or how I did it, must have been a ground thing, I took the battery off and recharged and regen'd it.
- Bilge - did not work and ran out of time to debug it.
I ran out of time and sunlight, drove the boat back to storage and left it there.
Additional task - I installed Minn Kota I-pilot upgrade on my trolling motor. My youngest helped :-)
ACR - I want to keep the loads off the main crank battery, I have an onboard alternator charger which is capable to directing charge to 2 additional batteries at 10 A max each,
So an ACR might not be necessary in my setup.
The only scenario that I can see that I need to prep for is if the main dies for any reason and I want to crank off the aux batteries (they are 10 ft and 6 ft away from the main battery.
To solve this I am going to carry a jumper cable in my goodie bag.
Hi Gobi, I will be fitting an ACR on mine during this rebuild.
An ACR, effectively, managed your start and house battery. It directs charge as such, To where it's needed so that it will always have enough charge for starting purposed, it will switch when your start battery is charged, auto, over to your house battery. That's only a laymans explanation ;D, But it pretty well takes the thinking out of battery management..
One other feature is they regulate/ stop surge, which is great if you run sensitive equipment, like an expensive sounder.
So, I think the ACR is a must, especially if your going wide out and really want to make sure you've got enough charge to get started.
Col
ACR -
1. I have the Minn Kota Alternator Charger already installed and that serves the job of an isolator, does not combine the batteries though.
2. I am going to carry a jumper cable in the boat to jump the main from the aux batts if needed.
Problems:
1. Sonar and Light are all on the main batt now
2. I have only 1 aux batt for the trolling motor [55lb minn kota]
Solutions:
1. Add 2nd Aux battery
2. Move Sonar power to aux battery
3. Add bus to under port side dash and add master ON/OFF switch
Port Side Bus
1. This will support Sonars, aux nav lights, led flood lights and electric reels
Charging/Discharging and banks
1. Motor has a Max output of 35A
2. Minn Kota Charges 10 A Max per channel - 2 channels
3. Trolling motor draws 9 A @ #2 speed setting.
Master On/Off switches for Bus - what are my options here?