Hello all. It's been awhile and I hope you are well. I've been building a dory in my spare time which has taken me away from refurbishing reels a bit. But, I do have a DAM Quick Super that I put aside and need your advice. All three of the bolts or screws around the handle are stripped, one so badly that only half of the top of the screw remains. It currently works fine, but knowing me, if I fish it it will get dunked and not being able to service it would probably be its end. I am not sure what to do...maybe just shelve it. I do not have the tools to tap a screw. Maybe you could recommend a kit or something? And if successful at removing the screws, I assume they are specialty items not to be found at the local hardware store. Thanks for your input.
Good Morning, Grekim --
Post a couple photos of your reel and the issue with the screws -- so I can determine which version you have.
I'll drop some new screws in the mail for you -- No Charge.
The screws are specific to DQ -- and cannot be found anywhere.
If the casing threads are stripped -- then we will approach the issue differently. If just the screws -- it is easy.
Best,
Fred
Fred, you're the best! I attached pictures to 1st post.
Just shoot me your full name and address in a PM -- and I will try to send them out on Monday.
The latest DQ Shop Manual from 1983 -- shows these screws (#100691) as not available.
Fortunately, I have plenty.
Nice to be back in the saddle again.
Best,
Fred
Getting the New Screws is Great however you are still going to have to remove the old ones and that is a color of a different Horse.
You Might first spray WD/40 or another Penetrate on both sides of the reel,let that soak a while then
Carefully Tap in a counter clockwise direction with a small punch or chisel on the messed up screw slots to see if you can get them loose enough to remove .Worse scenario will be to drill out from the other side as I think you have to remove that plate to remove the clip holding the lever on to get the handle /Gear assembly out .
If you are carefull this can be done and if not you will need another side plate and I bet Fred has those as well.
Right, I do have all of those parts, Billy --
But, in 40+ years, I have never seen these types of screws fused so bad that they would not budge, if --
* A Dremel cutting disc was used carefully to deepen the screw head slot
* Then a "Hollow-Ground" screwdriver of the proper size -- along with a good gripping handle -- and solid down-pressure
If needed to drill out -- like Billy said -- drill from the badge side -- I have plenty of those.
I will wait on mailing until you get the old screws out -- if any other parts are needed.
I think you will find this easy to do.
Not a big deal to remove these screws -- just the right approach and the right tools -- and a little planned patience.
Best,
Fred
Quote from: foakes on September 26, 2020, 04:55:08 PM
Nice to be back in the saddle again.
Best,
Fred
It's nice to have you back Fred!
Cheers,
Andrew
I don't think I have a hollow ground screwdriver. Any idea on the size needed for this?
Is there an alternative to the dremel, like some sort of file or chisel?
Without a Dremel -- anything to just "Score" the shoulder of the screw slot a little deeper will work.
Remember, strong downward pressure against something solid is your best bet.
You will get only one or two chances -- so doing it right the first time is important -- otherwise, it is drill time -- and a good chance of messing up other parts.
Screwdriver I use is a hollow ground Gun-smithing driver in .019 size. Also, just a driver bit would also work, and is less money. This operation needs to be done without a power screwdriver. Just strong, steady downward pressure with no slipping. You just need to break the bond 1/8 of a turn and it will come loose. No issues.
This old red scribe screwdriver will do to gouge the slot.
Here is the type of cutter that works in the Dremels.
This set of (6) hollow ground screwdrivers cost about $19, shipped.
Dremel is around $40 - $50. Useful for reel work, but not really necessary unless you are doing a lot of reels.
Whatever you end up -- I will help you with whatever is needed.
Best,
Fred
Great info. That's perfect. Yeah, maybe hold off on the screws for a bit. I may be sending YOU something :)
The schematics make the DAM's look a lot simpler than the Mitchells....which I am very comfortable working on now. So, I am curious to get it apart. I still have not acquired any Penn Greenies, but I know they are simpler too.
Hello again. I have not gotten very far with this. I first gave the screws a good dose of WD40 and let it sit for a couple days. Tried the elastic band for extra grip method, but without luck. I have not done anything drastic yet.
I have been working on a 330 instead. This one came apart nicely, but I do have a couple questions:
It looks like the way to remove the handle is by a pin on the shaft of the main gear, but feeling it is more trouble than it is worth?
The ball bearings feel stuck to the pinion. I assume they come off, but if so, which way...toward the end of the pinion shaft they are closer to?
Finally, and this also applies to reels like the Mitchell 306/406 where the drag is within the spool. Can you do any service on the drag?
Many thanks.
Success! I hit it today with a little 3 in 1 oil first. Then some gentle knocks with a nail set. Then they slowly came out. The last one to come out was missing half the head. No drilling. The only casualty is that I think I bent the auto reverse knob, blah! But, still functional.
Here is the inside of the DAM Quick Super all cleaned up. I used a combination of Cal's and some Reel-X oil. A light dose overall. When I use up the Reel-X I will try the TSI oil. I owe a big thanks to Fred for getting the screws to me. I put the Penn blue grease on those. I did remove the pin that holds the main gear to the handle shaft and was glad I did because that really is a key area that needs lube. In my opinion this reel really has an elegant and simple interior. The only thing that made me nervous was banging out the pin. I saw a video of a guy putting it a vice, but I opted to support the reel with a wood block and the pin just indented the wood as it came out. The bail is also easier to service (for me) than the Mitchell 302.
And here is the Quick 330 project. Again, a big thanks to Fred for an extra spool shaft! This is a much smaller reel. Compared to the Super, there is one less gear. Instead, we have a curved arm to create the in/out oscillation of the spool. I am not 100% sure it is tweaked as good as it can be. There is a very slight shudder when the spool shaft reaches its "lowest" point.
The line kinda looks like it's building up on the top of the spool, too. Maybe needs a slight tweak to raise up the spool. Possibly that might correct the "shudder" at the bottom of the shaft movement.
Is the spool able to be shimed on the 330? Prolly not, so you might gotta shim the bottom of the shaft, if possible, where the curved arm attaches.
Yeah, I love that "elegant and simple" DAM engineering. It looks so durable.
Which one you like better; the 330 or the Super?
Quote from: Gfish on October 16, 2020, 03:22:20 AM
The line kinda looks like it's building up on the top of the spool, too. Maybe needs a slight tweak to raise up the spool. Possibly that might correct the "shudder" at the bottom of the shaft movement.
Is the spool able to be shimed on the 330? Prolly not, so you might gotta shim the bottom of the shaft, if possible, where the curved arm attaches.
Yeah, I love that "elegant and simple" DAM engineering. It looks so durable.
Which one you like better; the 330 or the Super?
Actually, I bought that spool with the line already on it, but good catch in any case! The reel originally came with the wrong spool, a "junior". In terms of the engineering, I like the Super better so far. You can also easily get at the drag stack too. I have not fished either one yet. I did fish a 550 for the first time last weekend and really liked it. Absolutely no wind knots and I was worried I might have had a tad too much line on the spool, whereas on a Mitchell I am usually due for one wind knot under similar conditions.
I tend to agree about putting a shim somewhere. It has to be something minor.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
An interesting update on the 330 shudder issue: A recent purchase of a Finessa (predecessor to the 330) came with a schematic. I was surprised to see that there are TWO different lever arms that one can use to connect the main crank gear to the shaft. Of course, I was using the right-hand arm in an otherwise left-hand set up (reversing the plates and so forth). I feel a bit foolish, but I had no idea. I'm glad I barely used it in the incorrect setup, although I think it arrived this way. I will post pictures of the two arms, but they are certainly easy to tell apart, the right-hand arm being brass and with an extra fitting. I am not sure if these reels came with both arms at the time?
By the way, I had a great outing with the Finessa, catching many small striped bass in a shallow harbor. The drag felt smooth and adequate even for these powerful fish. I was using a modern not-so-expensive rod which was a little underguned, but next time I am taking a Browning Silaflex which is more fitting anyway.