Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Conventional and Bait Casting Reel Rebuild Tutorials and Questions => Shimano Tutorials and Questions => Topic started by: alantani on April 06, 2009, 03:59:34 AM

Title: tekota 700
Post by: alantani on April 06, 2009, 03:59:34 AM
the shimano tekota 700 is a great trolling reel with a very solid levelwind assembly.  heavily used models are plagued by drag failures and internal corrosion.  the handle grip is also very small.  we are going to changed out the stock drag washers for greased carbontex, bolt on a 4/0 kolekar handle grip, service the bearings and brush a light coat of grease on all of the non-exposed metal and graphite surfaces.  you're really going to like the results.  here's a link to the schematic - http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/techdocs/en/TEK700_v1_m56577569830498849.pdf  and here is our reel.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_13_31_1.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_13_33_2.jpeg)

when a reel is shipped to me for service, i need line on the reel to test the drags.   in the case of a levelwind, i like to return the reel with the line and the leveler in sync.  what i will do in this case is pull the line all the way over the left side and cut the line.  when i'm done, i can wind the leveler over to the far left, find the end of the line, poke it through the leveler and i'm back in sync.  pretty smart, huh!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_13_35_3.jpeg)

back out the four left side plate screws (key #546).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_13_38_4.jpeg)

remove the two piece left side plate (key #592) and cover (key #593).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_16_05_0.jpeg)

here's the inside of the left side plate assembly. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_16_07_1.jpeg)

remove idler gear "B" (key # 586), idler gear "D" (key #587) and the left side plate bearing (key #584). 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_16_09_2.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_16_12_3.jpeg)

this bearing measures 5 x 11 x 4mm.  lube the bearing and the idler gears with xtreme reel +.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_16_14_4.jpeg)

corrosion and salt build up are VERY SERIOUS problems with this series of reels.  take the time now to brush in a light coat of grease onto all of the non-exposed metal AND graphite surfaces of this reel. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_18_27_0.jpeg)

lube the right spool bearing with xtreme reel +.  this bearing measures 7 x 14 x 5mm.  to service this bearing, carefully press out the crosspin.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_18_30_1.jpeg)

if you are going to cast with this reel, lube the levelwind assembly with xtreme reel +.  if you are just trolling, you can use corrosion x or any oil that you wish.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_18_32_2.jpeg)

this reel has an excellent feature, a stabilizer bar "A" (key #579) that will prevent the loss of the pawl cap (key #522).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_18_36_3.jpeg)

remove the pawl cap (key #522).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_18_38_4.jpeg)

lube the line guide pawl (key #47).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_20_41_0.jpeg)

re-install the pawl (key #47), the cap (key #522) and stabilizer bar "A" (key #579).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_20_44_1.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_20_46_2.jpeg)

install the left side plate (key #592) and cover (key #593).  add a bead of grease to each screw hole. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_20_50_3.jpeg)

reinstall the four left side plate screws (key #546).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_20_50_3.jpeg)

give the spool a spin.  nice, huh!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_23_04_0.jpeg)

now for the right side plate.  remove the handle nut plate screw (key #128).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_23_06_1.jpeg)

remove the handle nut plate (key #557).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_23_08_2.jpeg)

remove the 13mm handle nut (key #425). 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_23_10_3.jpeg)

remove the handle assembly (key #558).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_23_12_4.jpeg)

see the hole in the drive shaft (key #571)?  there is a click pin (key #295) that will shoot out in that direction.  let's try to not let it shoot out into never never land.  back out the star drag (key #559) and look for the click pin to pop out.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_25_38_0.jpeg)

there it is. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_25_40_1.jpeg)

remove the star drag washer (key #429) and the four drag spring washers (key #'s 430 and 431).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_25_42_2.jpeg)

remove the bearing seal (key #433) and bearing thrust washers (key #481).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_25_45_3.jpeg)

remove the two right side plate screws "B" (key #506).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_25_48_4.jpeg)

remove the shorter right side plate screw "A"'s(key #560) and longer "B"'s (key #523).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_28_12_0.jpeg)

line everything up and keep things in order.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_28_16_1.jpeg)

carefully lift up the right side plate (key #561).  some parts are going to stay with the side plate. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_28_18_2.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_28_25_3.jpeg)

pull the roller clutch inner tube (key #564) out of the right side plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_28_28_4.jpeg)

remove the drive shaft bearing (key #486).  it measures 10 x 15 x 4mm.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_32_09_0.jpeg)

remove the yoke springs (key #299).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_32_14_2.jpeg)

there are two small thrust washers (no key #) that sit on top of the support shafts for the yoke springs.  set them aside.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_32_16_3.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_32_18_4.jpeg)

take a second for a quick survey. double dogs!  very nice. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_34_23_1.jpeg)

remove the drive gear (key #568) with drag washers. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_34_25_2.jpeg)

spread out all of the metal key and eared washers (key #'s 565 and 567) and dartanium drag washers "A" and "B" (key #'s 566 and 569).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_34_28_3.jpeg)

take a close look.  this is what a very sticky dartanium drag looks like. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_34_31_4.jpeg)

we're going to toss the old washers and install a set of carbontex drag washers from http://smoothdrag.com/price.html.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_36_46_0.jpeg)

let's clean up the base plate first.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_36_48_1.jpeg)

pull the yoke plate (key #577), the yoke (key #300) and pinion gear (key #576).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_36_50_2.jpeg)

remove the four anti-reverse pawl screws (key #305) and anti-reverse pawl keepers (key #306).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_36_54_4.jpeg)

remove the anti-reverse pawls (key #303) and the anti-reverse ratchet (key #570).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_41_47_0.jpeg)

take a look at the pawls (key #303) and make sure they are not banged up.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_41_49_1.jpeg)

clean up the base plate and spread the grease around evenly with an old toothbrush.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_41_51_2.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_41_56_4.jpeg)

these pins (no key #) require no servicing.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_41_53_3.jpeg)

add the anti-reverse pawls (key #303) to the anti-reverse ratchet (key #570).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_47_16_0.jpeg)

install the pawls and ratchet as a unit. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_47_18_1.jpeg)

install the anti-reverse pawl keepers (key #306) and screws (key #305).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_47_20_2.jpeg)

install the yoke plate (key #577).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_47_22_3.jpeg)

add some xtreme reel + to the spool shaft to clean the grease off the shaft and leave a coat of teflon.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_47_25_4.jpeg)

the yoke (key #300) has to be installed "bevelled side" down. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_49_58_0.jpeg)

install the yoke (key #300) and pinion gear (key #576) as a unit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_50_00_1.jpeg)

install the thrust washers (no key #) on top of the yoke springs supports.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_50_02_2.jpeg)

install the yoke springs (key #299).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_50_04_3.jpeg)

let's rebuild the drag stack.  slap a coat of drag grease on all of the carbontex drag washers.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_50_07_4.jpeg)

keep the fiber and metal washers in their original order.  metal washers alternate "keyed, eared, keyed."

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_53_08_0.jpeg)

install the roller clutch inner tube (key #564).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_53_11_1.jpeg)

take an old toothbrush and spread an even coat of grease on the inside of the right side plate (key #561).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_53_16_3.jpeg)

add a bead of grease to each screw hole in the base plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_53_18_4.jpeg)

install the right side plate.  make sure that the yoke plate (key #577) is "up" and that the clutch lever (key #562) is in the forward or "in gear" position.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_58_02_0.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_58_04_1.jpeg)

install the six right side plate screws "A" (key #560), "B" (key #506) and "C" (key # 523).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_58_10_3.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_00_14_0.jpeg)

install the drive shaft bearing (key #486), pack it with grease first.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_7_58_12_4.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_00_16_1.jpeg)

install the bearing seal (key #433) and bearing thrust washers (key #481).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_00_19_2.jpeg)

install the four drag spring washers (key #'s 430 and 431) and star drag washer (key #429).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_00_21_3.jpeg)

install the click pin (key #295).  the click spring (key #296) should already be inside.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_00_24_4.jpeg)

push the click pin down and insert a toothpick into the drive shaft to hold the pin in a down position.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_03_48_0.jpeg)

install the star drag (key #559).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_03_51_1.jpeg)

turn the star drag (key #559) down until it clears the shoulders of the drive shaft (key #571).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_03_53_2.jpeg)

install the drive shaft shield (key #427).  this was not shown during tear down.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_03_55_3.jpeg)

now we're going to drill out the old handle grip and bolt on a new kolekar grip.  this dot on the rivet will help.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_03_57_4.jpeg)

use a 3/16ths inch drill bit to drill out the rivet. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_06_06_0.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_06_09_1.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_06_16_4.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_08_44_3.jpeg)

compare the old grip to the new one. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_08_46_4.jpeg)

use a 1/8th inch hex drive for this 10-32 hex socket cap screw.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_10_59_0.jpeg)

changing out the handle grip is a very important part of this upgrade. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_11_01_1.jpeg)

install the new kolekar handle.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_11_04_2.jpeg)

install the 13mm handle nut (key #425) and handle nut plate (key #557).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_11_06_3.jpeg)

install the handle nut plate screw (key #128).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_11_08_4.jpeg)

and done!!!!!!!!!  a quick check of the freespool shows that the line leveler will travel the width of the spool three times before stopping. 

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_12_32_0.jpeg)

oops, not quite done.  crank the handle until the line guide (key #574) travels to the far left, find the tag end of the fishing line, poke it through the line guide and tie it off.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_12_34_1.jpeg)

ok, now we're done!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/0/1_05_04_09_8_12_37_2.jpeg)

Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Squirmypug on September 22, 2011, 05:59:32 AM
This looks like a nice reel, how much drag can it handle and how much line will it hold?
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: alantani on September 25, 2011, 02:09:56 AM
350 yards of 30# mono and an easy 15 pounds of drag.
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: pounder21366 on February 14, 2012, 09:14:04 PM
Alan, Would the Torium dog and spring upgrade work on this series of reels also?
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: alantani on February 14, 2012, 09:59:20 PM
it's been ages since i've looked at this post.  i'll betcha they would!
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: akfish on February 14, 2012, 10:12:17 PM
Actually, the dog upgrade won't work on these reels. At last I can't get it to work...
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: alantani on February 14, 2012, 10:32:12 PM
oops!  well, there you go!  :-\
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Bryan Young on February 14, 2012, 10:44:44 PM
I though these reels, you could add the spring, but not sure of the dog and spring.
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: pounder21366 on February 22, 2012, 10:53:35 PM
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 14, 2012, 10:44:44 PM
I though these reels, you could add the spring, but not sure of the dog and spring.

So Brian, if you can use the springs, that means you can eliminate the Ambassaduer style spring on the dogs, right?

Can anyone verify this for me?

Also, living in the Midwest, I don't get to see many of these reels first hand. Can anyone give me an idea of the size of the Tekota 700? The biggest size reel I feel comfortable using is the Penn 60 Longbeach. Anything much bigger would be too big.



Thanks for any help, Chuck.
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: wallacewt on February 23, 2012, 01:54:20 AM
it looks to me you can leave those dogs and just add a couple of springs.  springs can be made out of babies safety pins.  some are ss,others are heavy chrome,neither ever rust. alto mare made and sent me a pin for my penn 750ss,it worked fine(thanks sal) as an experiment i replaced it with a safety pin,have caught a few fish on it,it also works fine,you can undo the coil on the s/pin if you need to,just get the right size to fit the screw.hope this helps.cheers.  photo if you need it 
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Bryan Young on February 23, 2012, 07:32:58 AM
Hi Chuck,

Yes, the springs will eliminate the Ambassaduer style dogs; therefore, a more possitive connection and less slippage.

The tekota 700 is about the same width as the Penn 60 but smaller in diameter, if I recall.

Hope this helps.

Bryan
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Larry Mercer on May 17, 2012, 01:30:28 AM
Just looked over the rebuild tutorial. I need it!  Where do I get the handle? I looked at the smooth drag site and they appear to be different.  Just wondering. Also, how about the Extreme Reel Lube?  Sorry for all the questions but I'm new to your site and just learning my way around. I'm excited about upgrading my reels and love the information. Thanks for your help!
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Bryan Young on May 17, 2012, 02:06:36 AM
The handles are available from Alan Tani.  PM him, and he can get one out to you.
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Irish Jigger on May 17, 2012, 09:38:35 AM
Welcome to the Forum Larry.
Title: Tekota 700 Dog and Spring Upgrade
Post by: misanthrope on August 09, 2012, 05:38:19 AM
"torium 50 and trinidad 40/50 dog and spring upgrade"
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=3570.0

Similar modification as the "torium 50 and trinidad 40/50 dog and spring upgrade":

Use same pawl and spring as the Torium 50 upgrade.
trinidad DC pawl (TGT 1303)
pawl spring (TGT 1304)

Left spring is curled just past the "O".
Right spring leave unaltered.
Top right pawl (TGT 1303) upgrade
Bottom right pawl original pawl from Tekota 700.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/1SpringandPawl.jpg)

The curl you put into the left spring will wrap around the screw post. If you don't it'll protrude into the recessed area where the cover is seated. I also noticed it's a PITA to keep the spring in place without the curl. I made mine smaller than the screw post and it made it a lot easier to position the spring properly, you'll see why.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/2SpringInstall.jpg)

Before we move onto the next picture, let's go over how to install the left pawl. If you install the left pawl with the end pointed down (in relation to picture), the pawl will bind because the center of the pawl binds against the screw post.  Take a tiny screw driver or paper clip, bend the spring to where it would normally sit against the pawl, then insert the pawl with the end pointed towards the drive shaft, rotate pawl and release spring. The right pawl goes on without complication.

Notice how the left pawl is not seated properly.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/3LeftPawl.jpg)

Right pawl sits just a mm below being flush.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/4RightPawl.jpg)

See how the left spring is binding beneath the pawl? Notice how the curl around the post isn't seated all the way down? Without the curl, the spring won't stay in place and will keep binding. After putting a tighter curl into it, it helped keep the spring flat and in place while installing the pawl.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/5SpringBinding.jpg)

Original pawl keepers and screws used.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/6Installed.jpg)

Getting the anti reverse ratchet back in can be tricky.  This goes without saying, but I suggest this step be done AFTER the keepers and screws are reinstalled, even then it can take a few times. Start with the left side(in relation to picture) and then the right.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/spazzedninny/7Done.jpg)

Added Cal greased Dragmasters fiber washers and used my Torium 50 arm and handle (left over from Torium arm/handle upgrade).  With my Carny hands, the Torium 50 arm/handle mounted in the outside hole on the arm works like a champ.

Hope this helps!

-Will
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: redsetta on August 09, 2012, 09:30:15 PM
Great stuff Will - thanks for sharing.
Cheers, Justin
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: alantani on August 14, 2012, 05:31:12 PM
the man just earned himself a wrench!  pm sent.  thanks!!!!!!
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Bryan Young on August 14, 2012, 06:01:18 PM
Well done Will.
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: misanthrope on August 14, 2012, 10:17:05 PM
Thank you all, figured it was time to give back after all the great info everyone else has contributed!



-Will
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Bryan Young on January 30, 2015, 09:25:26 PM
Nice Will.  I didn't even see your posting until now.  I just did a few Tekota 500LCs...being that I wanted to get them out in a rush, I forgot to take pics.  When I get a another Tekota 500LC in, I'll definitely post pics.
Title: Re: tekota 700
Post by: Joao Tavares on August 24, 2018, 08:53:29 AM
I used this great tutorial to pre service my Tekota 800 and replace the dartanium drags for Carbontex.

Everything went smooth and easy thanks to the step by step tutorial.

Only word of caution: when removing the roller clutch inner tube, be careful not to touch and bring along the anti reverse roller bearing inner race. The rollers will fall off and it is a pain to put everything back together.

Other than that's an easy reel to service..... if you follow Alan's tutorial.
João