Hi all,
I'm wondering if someone out there can answer a spacer question I have? Its for an 04 Shimano Stella 3000/STL 4000FB.
One of the wormshaft spacers snapped so I ordered new ones. The part required is RD2409 which consists of 3 spacers (2 plastic and one that looks like graphite or carbon? I'm not sure if they vary much in thickness....I need to buy some callipers :)
On the schematic, there are only 2 spaces required so i'm curious what the extra is for?
Thanks in advance guys, I appreciate any guidance you have on this one.
I did one not long ago, but can't recall more than one spacer in the tailcap. Maybe put in one and check the end float, add second if required?
Cheers
Steve
Thanks Steve!!
At the moment I've got the plastic/white ones installed next to each bearing as per the schematic. Still no idea what the carbon/graphite one is for ::)
While it's now fully functional and performs smoothly and quietly, there is the tiniest (IMO) feeling of friction after you finish cranking the handle and let go.
If I've installed an extra/thicker spacer, could that account for a feeling of increased friction? Is that because the wormshaft has less play?
Thanks again Steve, I'll take one out and see how it feels.
I would guess that if you change the worm position enough,
you would feel something at the limits of oscillation
is this friction constant, or when spool is at its highest/lowest?
do you have line on it; is it stacking same as before w/ same # spool adjustment washers?
Quote from: Beatnut78 on August 03, 2021, 08:38:47 PM
Thanks Steve!!
At the moment I've got the plastic/white ones installed next to each bearing as per the schematic. Still no idea what the carbon/graphite one is for ::)
While it's now fully functional and performs smoothly and quietly, there is the tiniest (IMO) feeling of friction after you finish cranking the handle and let go.
If I've installed an extra/thicker spacer, could that account for a feeling of increased friction? Is that because the wormshaft has less play?
Thanks again Steve, I'll take one out and see how it feels.
You often notice a bit less free spin after service and I just put it down to the change of grease, ie actually adding some! In the hunt for a winner in the "free spin" competition (and likely to save .01c per reel) there seems to be a race amongst manufacturers to use less and lighter grease in assy. I maybe pack a bit in, but where there is grease around metal there won't be room for salt water. I usually ask if the customer wants to fish with it or play with it? If it is "a bit harder to wind" I just suggest a bigger bowl of Wheeties for breakfast! It's a bit like the "weight weenies" in cycling spending $thousands extra for a bike that weighs 1/2 a pound less instead of losing 5 pounds of blubber ;D
Unless it starts to feel "geary" (light grinding) or the feeling is uneven throughout the cycle, I just leave it be, as long as it is smooth and not
too tight. A .01mm shim can make a noticeable difference between tight and noticeable play, it's more art (arse) than science sometimes!
Cheers
Steve
Thanks Guys,
I know what you're saying Steve, and i'll keep that in mind. It's perfectly fishable as is now! That being said, I still think it's worth trying just one spacer as you mentioned. It's a good task for the weekend and I'll report back with the score!
I'm yet to respool it Philaroman. Originally, I thought the wormshaft was stuffed as the spool wouldn't re-engage upwards after it reached the bottom of the oscillation - causing a mess of line at the top of the spool. Cranking still felt smooth/normal throughout, so it was a bit of a surprise.
check the tiny fork that connects O-worm to O-block (RD6061?)
if it was unevenly worn or slightly bent when everything was misaligned
that may account for tiny "unsmoothness" that has nothing to do w/ drive gears
Quote from: philaroman on August 05, 2021, 02:03:15 PM
check the tiny fork that connects O-worm to O-block (RD6061?)
if it was unevenly worn or slightly bent when everything was misaligned
that may account for tiny "unsmoothness" that has nothing to do w/ drive gears
Further to Philaroman's advice, you really need heavy magnification to check properly, and the wormshaft has to have no damage to the edges of the slot, ie perfectly cut edges to the "v" where the pawl reverses . This is especially important for the ends of the channel where the pawl reverses; if you get a worm drive that has a "glitch" where the drive reverses it is a good bet that the slot has wear or damage to the edges in the "V".
cheers
Steve
Success.....
Having taken the reel apart this morning I've had the opportunity to try and few spacer configs.
What worked best in my case seems to be spacer 2 (thinner one) in the front position between the idle gear and bearing and spacer 3 (thicker one) behind the rear bearing.
Whatever was causing the spool to not re-engage at the bottom of the oscillation seems to be cured....touch wood! Can a misaligned or damaged pawl ever cause this problem?
I'll update again once i've respooled the topline.
Back in business :)
TLAR (That Looks About Right...)
as opposed to TLFU (you can figure it out ;) ;D )
Quote from: ReelClean on August 09, 2021, 04:42:42 AM
TLAR (That Looks About Right...)
as opposed to TLFU (you can figure it out ;) ;D )
Thanks Steve.
reel looks great 8)
salmon-colored line? don't like it :P
Quote from: philaroman on August 09, 2021, 01:17:16 PM
reel looks great 8)
salmon-colored line? don't like it :P
It was the only topshot I had on hand to test. Normally I go with sunline castaway for my lighter outfits but it was out of stock at my local.
Hi all,
It's been a little over a year and thought an update would be good....but the news isn't great.
After a few more fish (which in itself was an achievement), the spool started to glitch out at the bottom of the oscillation again. Wiser minds in this thread pointed to wormshaft wear at the base where the drive reverses which i"m sure is the fault. Big thanks to Steve and philaroman 8)
So, I'm back on the hunt for a wormshaft for this reel again. I'm still looking for one for the 3000, but did manage to find 2 brand new ones for my 04 Stella C3000 along with replacement drive gears from Kels in Florida.
I believe the 30T drive gear works with some of JDM models of the 04/07 Stella, 07 Soare, 05/07 Twin Power and 08/10 Sephia. Would that mean the wormshaft might also be a possible replacement?
Quote from: Beatnut78 on October 18, 2022, 01:30:30 AMHi all,
It's been a little over a year and thought an update would be good....but the news isn't great.
After a few more fish (which in itself was an achievement), the spool started to glitch out at the bottom of the oscillation again. Wiser minds in this thread pointed to wormshaft wear at the base where the drive reverses which i"m sure is the fault. Big thanks to Steve and philaroman 8)
So, I'm back on the hunt for a wormshaft for this reel again. I'm still looking for one for the 3000, but did manage to find 2 brand new ones for my 04 Stella C3000 along with replacement drive gears from Kels in Florida.
I believe the 30T drive gear works with some of JDM models of the 04/07 Stella, 07 Soare, 05/07 Twin Power and 08/10 Sephia. Would that mean the wormshaft might also be a possible replacement?
One other thing I have seen is a bent spool shaft at the front end that hangs up when it slips under the support brg/bush in the rotor. It gives a slight glitch or kick as it enters the bush. If you punch the Shimano part no into ereplacementparts.com it will give you all the models that it is used in.
The JDM reels have a different part number schedule on the PDF, and just run sequentially (no actual part number). Is there another way to get the part number for JDM reels?
From what I can see, the only wormshaft option I have outside of a Stella replacement is the 05-07 Twin Power (Japan model). There was a standard as well as a magnesium version that came in a 3000/4000 size.
Quote from: ReelClean on October 18, 2022, 08:19:34 AMOne other thing I have seen is a bent spool shaft at the front end that hangs up when it slips under the support brg/bush in the rotor. It gives a slight glitch or kick as it enters the bush. If you punch the Shimano part no into ereplacementparts.com it will give you all the models that it is used in.
sometimes ::) that "Compatible Machines" list can be incomplete
and, MOST ANNOYINGLY, that list disappears when a part is completely "Obsolete"
i.e., out of stock / will never be in stock / not made
[sigh] shouldn't complain -- no other such list exists(?)... certainly not from Shimano >:(
Just checked with my parts guy at Shimano Aust, he said no alternate for the worm but the pawl is still available.
Thanks for checking.
I've got spare pawls and drive gear for it....just not the worm. I've had a bit of success on sites like jauce.com buying things from the japanese domestic market. Often you can find body only options that are super usable for parts.
I'll keep my eye out, but if anyone has a spare floating around for an JDM 04 stella 3000 or JDM 05-07 Twin Power 3000 for sale let me know :)
I have a spare/new worm for an 04 stella c3000/2500 I'm willing to part with if that helps anyone.