so, I have this trinidad 40 that seems that it never got serviced ever and it have some parts pretty corroded, actually shimano handles are prone to corrode badly and kind of disintegrate, Im not fan of the aluminum that shimano use on their reels.
the head of the screw of the lock plate of the nut handle was pretty stuck and it was already damaged, so I poured some WD-40 for few days and I made a cut with my dremel to the head of the screw to be able to use a flat screwdriver, well long story short, I was only able to brake the head of the screw and take the lock plate out from the handle and open the reel to service it, but now I have no idea how to take the rest of the screw out from the handle.
the body of the screw is too thin to use the dremel for a cut and use the flat screwdriver again and its too short to be able to get it with a locking pliers.
I would Drill it out from the Back .Start in the center with a tiny bit and gradually increase size till you get to the threads and then just pick out the remaining pieces . and or drill a small hole from the back then heat it up let it cool and use a small ease out from the other side or after heating it you may try the next size bit again from the back and many times after heating it with the hole in it the next size bit will run it out .
Since a nubbin of the screw sticks out the back I would first try gently drilling with a smaller bit from the front. Many times the bit will catch in the old screw and continue threading it right on through and out the back side without marring the female threads.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on October 19, 2021, 11:31:34 PM
Since a nubbin of the screw sticks out the back I would first try gently drilling with a smaller bit from the front. Many times the bit will catch in the old screw and continue threading it right on through and out the back side without marring the female threads.
I thought the Corroded side was the Front ???
Heating the area surrounding the screw will loosen the crud and help get it out . And without a hell of a holder and drill press you will play the devil drilling the uneven piece is why I recommended going to the side where the screw is recessed whether is the Front or Back like I thought.
Good luck what ever you decide ;D
Quote from: Wompus Cat on October 20, 2021, 12:02:58 AM
I thought the Corroded side was the Front ???
you're right, its the front of the handle which has the part of the screw showing up.
so, the best bet is to drill out from the back?
I havent had any luck with the EZ-out drill bits :-\
I would Heat it up then drill drill after it cools down a bit and from the side where the screw is Recessed reason being is you have a better chance of centering the bit since it is Flat .
Controversial perhaps, but what about just replacing the arm? It looks pretty nasty...
Quote from: boon on October 20, 2021, 12:52:19 AM
Controversial perhaps, but what about just replacing the arm? It looks pretty nasty...
LOL
thats an option of course, but 1st I will see if I can use this one for some time.
I just got for my personal use a this Trinidad 40 with a lot of broken small pieces, like stock dogs, brake pads are done, all bearings are toast and some other small bits as bearings washers, clicker pins, etc
so, If I can save this handle that will help, but yes, in the near future a better handle with a more comfy knob is on the list.
Quote from: steelfish on October 20, 2021, 12:42:06 AM
Quote from: Wompus Cat on October 20, 2021, 12:02:58 AM
I thought the Corroded side was the Front ???
you're right, its the front of the handle which has the part of the screw showing up.
so, the best bet is to drill out from the back?
I havent had any luck with the EZ-out drill bits :-\
Incidentally Ease outs are NOT DRILLS they merely are tapered to be lightly hammered or pressed into and existing Hole you Drill and they lock in place allowing (Wilth Luck ) you to back out the broken piece ,
When I referenced "a nubbin of the screw sticks out the back" I meant the back from the direction the screw/bolt was originally driven. Which ever side of the handle is front or back really has no relevance. The direction of the threads is all that is actually relevant.
Quote from: Midway Tommy on October 20, 2021, 03:24:00 AM
When I referenced "a nubbin of the screw sticks out the back" I meant the back from the direction the screw/bolt was originally driven. Which ever side of the handle is front or back really has no relevance. The direction of the threads is all that is actually relevant.
Got it
Thanks Tommy
Start with a good sharp punch to dimple the end so the drill bit does not wander. Giving the punch a good whack will also help loosen the broken screw .
Or you can leave it alone and drill a new hole on the opposite side if you have a tap.
Quote from: oc1 on October 20, 2021, 06:28:38 AM
Start with a good sharp punch to dimple the end so the drill bit does not wander. Giving the punch a good whack will also help loosen the broken screw .
Since the handle is aluminum, this is a must, to guard the threads. Wonder what the screw is made of?
I've used a reverse (left hand) drill bit for a similar problem (broken stainless screw and an aluminum fly reel hub). The most difficult part is accurately center punching the screw to keep the bit from wandering into the aluminum. In my project the screw started backing out when I drilled halfway through and I just had to clean up the threads.
Jon
A tiny drop of Kroil on the broken screw may help, too.
thanks for all the ideas, I will try to take that screw out in few days.
this reel also had the small bearing that go under the shaft coming out in pieces when I took the shaft out from the Set-Plate, and as sometimes happens part of the bearing (the rail) was stuck almost bonded by the corrosion to the the cup/base of the set plate which is aluminium, I had to reduce the thickness of the bearing rail with a stone bit with the dremel until was thin enough to be forced out by a flat screwdriver, the rail came out in pieces but I had it completely removed, then a bit of superficial polishing with the stone bit on the bearing cup and worked perfect, the 6x10x3 bearing fit snug on the place BUT seems that the reel was used with that bearing toasted because now the hole where the shaft rear end fits has a lot of play or erosion (on the other side of the bearing retainer cup) just where the shaft meets the bearing, the shaft base is 6mm and the hole now is 7.2mm :-\
some people just dont know when to stop using a reel with broken parts >:( >:(
Those bearings in that sump under the gear sleeve rot away pretty easily since water can't really drain from there. It'd be better to have a bushing rather than a bearing but Shimano is all about smoothness rather than strength and reliability.
Quote from: MarkT on October 21, 2021, 05:59:43 PM
Those bearings in that sump under the gear sleeve rot away pretty easily since water can't really drain from there. It'd be better to have a bushing rather than a bearing but Shimano is all about smoothness rather than strength and reliability.
Im actually getting a bushing to try the reel with it instead of a bearing specially after pointing out the problem of the "play" the sleeve rear will have with the bearing eroded cup hole
as always all your ideas worked really good, Im not a Handyman hence Im not that good with tools, but with your help in my years in this community I have went through some jobs that normally would've asked someone to do it for me, like this one.. but not this time.
I heated the handle with a heatgun until was pretty hot, then when it was still warm but not too hot I took the dremel with a carbide fine-tip grinding bit and did a small tiny cut in the middle of the screw from the backside of the handle as guide for the drill bit to bite, for my luck it was easier than I expected to be, the grinding bit is really effective with those aggressive teeth and did a good deep guide-hole on the screw without biting the threads on the handle, then since the drill bit diameter was smaller than the diameter of hole of the screw and had a good guide it was a matter to keep the drill steady and check when the drill bit tip appeared by the other side of the handle, the rests of the small screw felt apart with the help of a metal needle dentist tool, it might look like an easy job for someone but Im happy with the result, the handle has a ugly corroded hole but still usable and the 2nd hole is in pretty good condition, so since the screw extracting job was a success I will use the handle as is for some time ;D
now I could install a new SS hex screw that fit like a glove on the Shimano handle lock plate
Quote from: nelz on October 20, 2021, 02:14:47 PM
Or you can leave it alone and drill a new hole on the opposite side if you have a tap.
All of the above may work and if not I have usually used Nelz's suggestion. Replace the locking nut to use as guide to position the hole precisely.
Quote from: Cor on November 19, 2021, 07:11:21 PM
Quote from: nelz on October 20, 2021, 02:14:47 PM
Or you can leave it alone and drill a new hole on the opposite side if you have a tap.
All of the above may work and if not I have usually used Nelz's suggestion. Replace the locking nut to use as guide to position the hole precisely.
that was an option too, but the aluminium shimano use on their handles is kind of brittle or "dusty", shimano alum handles corrode faster and uglier than other similar handles of Penn, daiwa, etc, or aftermarket ones so, I dont know if taping a new screw hole is a good idea because I dont think the new threads will last too long having naked aluminium without any "special" saltwater protection than grease.