here's the schematic for the shimano tld 20 two speed.
http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/04-TLD20II_ARB_v1_m56577569830571880.pdf
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Shimano/Shimano%20TLD%2020%202sp.pdf
and here's the reel.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/42_1_b.jpg)
i've got four of these. they do double duty for local albacore and san diego long range. and they've killed alot of fish. straight out of the box, the tld 20 two speed is perfectly servicable. an oversized handle helps tremendously, and several manufacturers offer one. the remaining upgrades are nice, but not essential. the rebuild you're about to see is tedious, but not overly difficult. keep everything in order, stay organized and you should be fine.
let's start on the left side first. back out the cross bar bolts (b) (key #193) and grease the screw holes.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0737.JPG)
now to the right side plate. remove the pre-program dial (key #151), the dial spring (key #152), the lever shaft body and "o" seal as a unit (key #154 and 153), and the drag control lever (key #155). leave the leve thrust washer (key # 196) in place.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0738.JPG)
remove the lever quadrant (key #236) and screws (key #158, 159 and 161).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0739.JPG)
flip the reel over and remove the two side plate screw (B)'s (key #406).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0740.JPG)
flip the reel back upright and remove the five side plate screw (A)'s (key #164)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0741.JPG)
separate the frame, spool and right side plate.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0742.JPG)
take apart the rod clamp assembly (key #224, 225, 226, 227), grease the bolts and reassemble the rod clamp assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0743.JPG)
lightly grease the clicker assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0745.JPG)
grease the cross bar bolt (A)'s (key #189).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0746.JPG)
the frame is done. now on to the spool. the first thing that i noted was that the cooling shield (spool cap) was loose.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0747.JPG)
remove pinion gear (A) (key #201), pinion gear (B) (key #202), the cooling shield (key #171), and the drag plate assembly (key #174, 246, 172, and 203). note the excess grease on the drag washer.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0748.JPG)
remove the cross pin (key #229), the click gear (key #183) and screws (key #184).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0749.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0750.JPG)
remove the main shaft assembly. i've put it back together so that you can see how it fits together when it's actually inside the spool, then taken it apart again.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0751.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0753.JPG)
note the stock "()()" configuration of the preload spring B's (belleville pressure washers).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0752.JPG)
i pried off the shields of all three spool bearings (key #570 and 569), cleaned all the grease out with carb cleaner and compressed air, and relubed the bearings with corrosion x. as discussed previously, i believe that shimano has the right idea regarding the use of open bearings.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0754.JPG)
i've lined everything up again so that you can see the new configuration for the main shaft. i'll remove a bearing thrust washer (key #42A) and add one extra preload spring B (key #40A).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0755.JPG)
the new configuration for the preload spring B's is "((())".
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0756.JPG)
install the click gear (key #183) and click gear screws (key #184).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0757.JPG)
pull out the drag washer (key #246).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0758.JPG)
clean off the excess grease.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0759.JPG)
apply a light coat of grease to the spool and both sides of the drag washer.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0760.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0761.JPG)
clean off all the excess grease.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0762.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0763.JPG)
install the right spool bearings (key #569) and pressure release spring (key #176).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0764.JPG)
you will notice a great deal of play in the drag plate assembly. we're going to fix this. first, remove the seal lock (key #174).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0765.JPG)
the drag plate assembly separates into four pieces.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0766.JPG)
apply 4 layers of masking tape to the back of the drag plate (key #245), then cut out the center hole.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0767.JPG)
put the drag plate assembly back together. the seal lock will have to be pushed into position with a flat screwdriver.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0768.JPG)
take a very sharp knife and cut the tape around the pre-load spring A (key #172).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0769.JPG)
peel up the excess masking tape.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0770.JPG)
install the drag plate assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0771.JPG)
install the cooling shield (key #171) using the special wrench (key #146). Remember, it came loose from the factory.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0772.JPG)
install the cross bar (key #229).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0773.JPG)
install the spool assembly back into the frame. note that some older reels only fit in ONE way. if you find that the spool does not slide back and forth easily, pull the spool out and rotate the main shaft 180 degrees. this works!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0774.JPG)
this is the right main side plate bearing (key #571). this bearing is often the first to rust. let's pull it out and pack it with grease.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0775.JPG)
remove the push button shield (key #91) and screws (key #90).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0776.JPG)
ok, here's the tricky part. you need to remove the handle bolt plate assembly. back out the handle bold plate screw (key #92), but leave everything else in place.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0777.JPG)
place your right index finger over the screw (key #92) and slide plate spring (key #93). push the slide plate (key #94) "in" and lift off the handle bolt plate assembly as a unit. don't let the spring go "boing!"
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0778.JPG)
set the assembly down in a safe place.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0779.JPG)
remove the handle bolt assembly as a unit (key #69, 147 and 148).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0780.JPG)
remove the handle assembly (key #471) and drive shaft shield (key #150).
now carefully lift the side plate, leaving the drive shaft and gear assembly on your working surface. please resist the temptation to disturb the drive shaft and gear assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0782.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0783.JPG)
now, who says that these old penn wrenches are useless? i've bent the end of this one and turned it into a bearing puller.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0784.JPG)
out comes the right main sideplate bearing (key #571).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0785.JPG)
here's the back side.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0786.JPG)
here's the front with the shield and retaining ring carefully removed.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0787.JPG)
the bearing was packed with grease.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0788.JPG)
the shield and retaining ring were replaced and re-installed.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0789.JPG)
re-install the drive shaft and main gear assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0790.JPG)
install the drive shaft shield (key #150) and the new handle.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0791.JPG)
grease the handle arm and install the handle bolt assembly. tighten until the the handle bold aligns with the handle bolt plate (key #2A). use good mechanical judgement in tightening the handle bolt.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0792.JPG)
install the handle bolt plate assembly. take care to cover and not lose the spring.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0793.JPG)
install the push button shield.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0794.JPG)
check the push "low" button shaft to see that it locks into low gear properly. if not, the push button shield screws (key #90) are probably too tight. back off the screws a quarter turn at a time until the push button functions properly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0795.JPG)
this is a shot of the anti-reverse dog assembly. under a heavy load, this assembly may fail. it might be a good idea to keep an extra set on hand so that you can be field strip the reel and replace the dog if necessary. call shimano at (877) 577-0600 and ask for a c-lock (key #69), two dogs (key #338), a guard screw (key #167), a guard against dog (key #340), a dog spring guide (key #341) and a dog spring (key #342).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0796.JPG)
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0797.JPG)
install pinion gear A and B (key #201 and 202).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0798.JPG)
install the right side plat assembly.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0799.JPG)
grease the screw holes and install the side plate screw A's (key #164).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0800.JPG)
install side plate screw B's (key #406).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0801.JPG)
install the lever quadrant (key #236) and screws (key #161, 158 and 159).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0802.JPG)
install the drag control lever (key #155) and push it to the "free" position.
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0803.JPG)
install the lever shaft body (key #153 and 153) and dial spring (key #152).
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0804.JPG)
install the preprogram dial (key #151) and you're done!
(http://www.yourfishpictures.com/data/500/medium/103_0805.JPG)
QuoteThe question I have is on my TLD 15. Decided to leave the bellevilles/spacers alone for now (glad I did-fewer variables to troubleshoot my problem). Degreased and oiled the 2 spool and 1 drag plate bearings (they were open). Changed the drag washer to greased Carbontex. The only other thing I did was some 1200 grit polishing on the inside of the pinion gear and the spool shaft where the pinion rides - saw that on a thread on Bloody Decks you were part of. The drag feels great and the freespool is up to 35-40 seconds with 10# strike setting. The issue is I noticed when checking freespool that tilting the reel 45* to the right (like a right-handed caster would) causes the spool to stop in seconds (even when it's hauling #### at the start). Tilting to the left does nothing (might even help a little). I've got a TLD 20 single-speed that's never been apart, and tilting it left or right during freespool has no effect on it. I've used your site and the drawing to check my reassembly 3 times. Have you ever heard of this? Any suggestions? Should I be concerned?
yeah, this "tilting to the right and stopping" business is found in any reel with a bearing sleeve that is cut too long. the "c-clip" on the spool shaft that sits next to the right spool bearing functions as a bearing sleeve and it is "too long." to fix it, you either need to shim the bearing cup or remove the c-clip and cut a bearing sleeve to fit. as for the pinion gear, don't bother polishing it. it actually does not affect freespool. alan
wish i could have been there. thank you, erik!
Quote
Bula Alan. I've been waiting for the day I'd witness this...and Sunday it happened!
Catastrophic TLD frame failure.....only I figured it'd be one of my 25's, not the 50 LRS.
After 30mins of trying to wrestle the tuna up from the deep, we sunset'd just past the strike button and 5mins later
the reel blew apart with about 1/3 of our line still out. With 2 of us handlining and one handreeling we managed to land the sucker... 128 lbs !
Our new boat record for tuna.
Drag was set at 21lb strike and the frame failed at 27lbs. ( we tested the reel afterwards )
So, I'm back on the hunt for yet another 2sp 50 frame..... but I'm still a shimano guy for sure!
Cheers
Erik
(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_12_01_10_2_08_42_0.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_12_01_10_2_08_46_1.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_12_01_10_2_08_55_2.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_12_01_10_2_09_02_3.jpeg)
just by happenstance, a new frame is already en route to erik in fiji for another reel, but he's going to need a tiburon frame after this. alan
"apply 4 layers of masking tape to the back of the drag plate (key #245), then cut out the center hole."
How long does the masking tape hold up or does it need to be replaced after a year or two?
Robb
not sure. it doesn't have to do alot. i have a metal washer that i've used for a long time now.
Do you have a part number for the washer?
somewhere. it's from mcmaster.com. i can send you one if you wish. just send a pm with your address.
Hey Alan, what kinda drag numbers can be reasonably expected after working over the TLD20/30 2spd?
18 pounds at strike is pretty much the best working load for this reel. hard to go much higher.
Thanks for the tutorial, used it for servicing my old TLD 20 II a couple of times.
Only problem after I replaced the broken anti reverse plastic spring sleeve and spring the drag now is very light first and then comes on extremely heavy past strike.
As said, I serviced the reel before and it worked perfectly the first time. I opened and re-assembled 4 times and it's still the same with the drag. Now maybe the problem was, that the reel got dunked a few times and then stored with drag at strike for 6 months (stupid I know) before I serviced it. Internals looked fine to me, no rust etc. The drag washer might be a bit worn, could this be the problem?
Please help :)
PS: If this is the wrong place to post, sorry and please delete.
Thanks!
Felix
Welcome Felix.
Three places I would look are worn Belleville washers, work drag washer and pressure plate spring.
I just worked on a TLD 30II where there was alot of play in the spool. As I tightened the drag knob it moved so much there was a grinding noise. When I opened it up I took the spool shaft out to look at the belleville washers and as I did metal parts fell out. On a closer look the C lock #0179 fell out in three pieces. This reel has a Carbontex drag washer and a after market drag plate. The problem seems the owner leaves the drag engaged at full or close to fish fighting pressure when not fishing the reel. Not sure this is the problem you have but in order to engage the drag with enough pressure to fished the adjustment knob needed to be screwed to tight that the drag went from nothing to very hard with slight movement of the lever.
With some after market parts these reels can be fished with plenty of drag over stock. Here is a pic of my TLD 30 II.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks101_zps420fb7cc.jpg)
Thanks a lot Bryan and SoCalAngler! And sorry for the late reply.
The pressure plate spring and Belleville washers look good to me, as well as the C lock. However the drag washer looks compressed and a little worn this might be the reason.
I'm overseas at the moment, will order a new smooth drag washer when back. Would be a good investment anyway. I looked at the website and can't find any for the TLD20 II. Am I blind or is there none?
Regards,
Felix
the tld 20 and 30 two speed already have carbon fiber dragss.
Thanks Alan. I'll just order a new pair of factory washers and a new couple of springs. If that doesn't cut it, a pro will have to repair it for me.
these carbon fiber drag washers really never go bad. :-\
Quote from: SoCalAngler on February 10, 2014, 05:58:56 AM
I just worked on a TLD 30II where there was alot of play in the spool. As I tightened the drag knob it moved so much there was a grinding noise. When I opened it up I took the spool shaft out to look at the belleville washers and as I did metal parts fell out. On a closer look the C lock #0179 fell out in three pieces. This reel has a Carbontex drag washer and a after market drag plate. The problem seems the owner leaves the drag engaged at full or close to fish fighting pressure when not fishing the reel. Not sure this is the problem you have but in order to engage the drag with enough pressure to fished the adjustment knob needed to be screwed to tight that the drag went from nothing to very hard with slight movement of the lever.
With some after market parts these reels can be fished with plenty of drag over stock. Here is a pic of my TLD 30 II.
(http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag355/SoCalAngler1/Marks101_zps420fb7cc.jpg)
SoCalA.. that's a great looking 30... Where'd you get the frame? .. Magnum 30 ?
Vinaka
Erik
It's a Tiburon frame, when I purcased it many years ago they didn't have the topless verson out yet. If I were buying now it would be topless for sure. The reel has one of Cal's dragplates but Cal no longer makes them, I think Tiburon or someone else still makes them though. The extended handle arm and knob are from Dawn at Smoothdrag.
i think i still have a few of those.......
Really Alan?
I've got a 20II and my buddy has four 30 II's
I'm thinking I'd like one for my 20. Let me know what you have and maybe I can get him interested too.
sweet.
i'll take a look.
Vinaka Bosso !
.... you guys are up late tonight :D it's after dinner here..
Just coming back to my issue with the steep drag curve - couldn't figure it out myself and gave it to shimano. They said they played around with the drag washer. Anyway the problem is not completely resolved, but fishable now. Also it somehow seems to slowly get better fishing it. At 7lb strike it now has about 16lb at full. My new "full" is one click past strike, hopefully it continues to get better ;D Very weird...
Thanks for the help guys, very much appreciated!
"now carefully lift the side plate, leaving the drive shaft and gear assembly on your working surface. please resist the temptation to disturb the drive shaft and gear assembly."
I must have missed that part.
So, I took mine apart last night and put it back together. Everything went back on and it shifts into high and low fine, except the drag is hosed up. Drag is applied when the lever is in freespool positon and freespool in the strike position. Then if I try to move the lever back to where it's suppose to be in freespool now the lever only goes to 1/2 between strike and freespool. Any ideas?
pull the preset knob off and remove the cam, then place the lever in the "free" position, install the cam inside the lever so that it "nests," then the spring and the preset knob. i think that will do the trick.
I'll try that.
Thanks Alan.
Alan, if you still have any of Cal's drag plates I'll take two.
all you have to do is shim the drag pressure plate and change the belleville configuration and you'll get enough drag to break the frame. no drag pressure plate required!
Good enough for me. I'll do that. Of course my 30II has a Willfish topless frame and my 20II has a Tib topless frame so getting enough drag to break them may be a challenge!
if you need the washer set, let me know!
Hi Alan,
I have TLD20A II (Made in Malaysia) since 2010 I believe and I have been using it for bottom fishing probably less than 15 times and no maintenance by professional because I have maintained very clean.
I have seen from many posts saying this reel needs some kind of upgrade for drag washer and more.
Is this still worth the money to upgrade my TLD20A II with Tiburon Engineering Frame?? And Can you do the job and what will be the total cost including labor and shipping?
Thank you
Bruce
http://www.tiburonengineering.com/html/frames.htm
Bula Bruce,
There's really no need to upgrade the drags on these 2 speed reel.... we do upgrade the TLD single speeds, but that is to basically to bring them up to the specs of the 2speeds by the addition of carbon fiber drags and heavier bellvilles.
When there's big YFT around, I regularly fish my serviced/stock TLD20 Speed with 25lbs at strike with 80lb topshot over braid.. tried and true.
That 20 size frame is pretty darn strong and Alan himself won't even call a frame upgrade for this reel "necessary".
I do consider Alan's handle upgrade a MUST though... ditch that puny stock handle for some nice cranking power ;)
The 30 size with it's wider frame, Yes, maybe, upgrade the frame.
The 50 size.... FOR SURE ! ;D
But then again nobody should be buying a graphite frame 50lb 2speed reel anyway. ;)
There's a good discussion on this here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1151.15 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1151.15)
Cheers
Hi Bruce,
Got one from Alan for my 30A. They are easy to swap over, just watch out for the detent spring on the high low switch on the handle it can jump out if you're not careful.
Rgds
Mark
Thank you erikpowell & Mark for detailed explanations and Photo.
Anyone knows the weight after swapping with Mag 20T Frame from Tiburon Engineering?? and the price for the upgrade??
The stock TLD 20 II are 36.2oz
I understand the Stock frame is strong enough but I am a little concerned about the weight.
I will do the Alan's handle upgrade for sure but don't know how.
Mark!
Is the handle on your upgraded TLD30 picture from Alan??
Someone please share with me the picture of alan's handle, Price and tell me how to order them.
Erikpowell!!! R U sure TLD20 II is rated for 80# Tuna?? I didn't know that. If that is true then I will try to use this reel for my 40# set up or higher.
I have been using this reel for bottom fishing Groupers and Sanddab so far due to it's 36.2oz weight.
Also below are my reels for the overnight ~ 2 1/2 day tuna trip.
I have first four reels for school sized Tuna and plan to buy one more either Talica16 II or Torsa 16.
Torsa 16 spec. looks good & strong but more expensive
Any recommendation?? Thank you.
#1. Lexa300 PWR (11.3oz) - 20# (20# Topshot with 50# spectra back up)
#2. Sealine-X SL-X30SHA (17.1oz) - 30# (30# Mono)
#3. Talica10 II (18.6oz) - 30# (30# Topshot with 65# spectra back up)
#4. TLD20 II (36.2oz) - 40# (40# Topshot with 65# spectra back up)
Talica16 II (26.5oz)- 50# (50# Topshot with 80# spectra back up)
Torsa 16 (29.1oz) - 50# (50# Topshot with 80# spectra back up)
Hi Bruce,
Yes, it is one of Alan's handles and handle grips. Just email or pm Alan to order parts and watch out for that handle spring. :)
Rgds
Mark
This can also be used as a guide for beast master 12/20 and 20/50 reels. I just cleaned and rebearinged my 20/50's, I think the only part that it different is the clicker. I say think because I didn't pay a lot of mind to it- clean, grease and go.
The 12/20 is the tld 20 2spd, the 20/50 is the tld30 2 spd.
And for the guys who are looking for an aluminum frame, the beastmaster frame is aluminum...and it already has the carbon fiber drag. Might stumble across one for a good price.
I can't say for sure, but I'll BET the Tib frame upgrade & side plate would add more than a few ounces to that reel.
It's gotta be heavier.
Bruce, I wouldn't call it "Rated" for 80#, but it's definitely strong enough... I have wrestled up 60-70kg Yellowfin with my 20 2sp...
A 9/0 Senator is a much better tool for that job though, even with just single speed ;D ;D
Thanks erikpowell,
I will give it a try for 40# and up for the Tuna.
I'm not familiar with beast master series but thank you CaptDavDavis01
is the shimano triton beastmaster 12/30 II be on the same league of the TLD II?
this triton beastmaster 12/30 feels very strong and TLD are a lot lighter but I havent opened a TLD II yet
Yes, the Beastmasters preceeded the TLD's.
I received a TLD30A Two Speed reel for servicing that was running very hard with drag engaged (while cranking.)
It is a reel that looks new... the insides show no evidence of corrosion, even the main bearing looks clean, apart from the grease in it.
I am baffled that 3 out of the 4 bearings turn out to be completely jammed. I can't make them move even a few microns!
Are the bearings completely destroyed? What could be the cause of it? Have they been destroyed by too much axial load? Has someone tried to tighten the preset drag knob with the drag already engaged? I would be thankful for an explanation as to what could have caused this.
Needless to say this reel is made in Malaysia.
Bearings fail due to excessive side loads, inadequate lubrication, introduction of foreign material, and through normal wear. It's tough to say exactly why the bearings in your customer's reel failed. It was likely a combination of the above. Though I suspect the main culprit is too much time between service intervals. If the reel was fished beyond manufacturer specifications this can certainly contribute to failure. If you have a newer model with the ARB bearings, be aware that they have balls that are much harder, and slightly tighter tolerances then standard SS Abec 5 bearings. These are much smoother when new, but in my personal expience, I have found they do not wear well. Because the balls are coated in hard ceramic, they wear very little, and will actually chip, crack, or develop flat spots (sometimes on a microscopic level). This leads to the binding failure you are witnessing. Clean the reel up, replace the bearings, and make sure nonspool bearings are fully packed with grease, and spool bearings have been adequetly lubed with corrosion X, TSI 301, or the like.
the bearings were likely installed dry. that is probably why they corroded so quickly.
Quote from: Tightlines666 on September 06, 2015, 10:15:43 PM
Bearings fail due to excessive side loads, inadequate lubrication, introduction of foreign material, and through normal wear. It's tough to say exactly why the bearings in your customer's reel failed. It was likely a combination of the above. Though I suspect the main culprit is too much time between service intervals. If the reel was fished beyond manufacturer specifications this can certainly contribute to failure. If you have a newer model with the ARB bearings, be aware that they have balls that are much harder, and slightly tighter tolerances then standard SS Abec 5 bearings. These are much smoother when new, but in my personal expience, I have found they do not wear well. Because the balls are coated in hard ceramic, they wear very little, and will actually chip, crack, or develop flat spots (sometimes on a microscopic level). This leads to the binding failure you are witnessing. Clean the reel up, replace the bearings, and make sure nonspool bearings are fully packed with grease, and spool bearings have been adequetly lubed with corrosion X, TSI 301, or the like.
Thank you Tightlines666, I think you got it right!
Quote from: alantani on September 07, 2015, 12:48:06 AM
the bearings were likely installed dry. that is probably why they corroded so quickly.
Thanks Alan!
I had no option but to clean the bearings with gas; it took some effort to get them rolling again. I oiled the spool bearings and filled with grease on the sides that were to face away from the spool. I thoroughly stuffed the main and the drag plate bearing with Penn Reel Grease, greased the Carbontex drag washer with Cal's, shimmed the drag plate with masking tape, Alan's way, grease the other parts with Penn grease, and finally the reel is usable once more. The bearings are no longer as smooth as they should be, but fortunately they were still rust free, and had not developed any play. ;D
PS. Alan, I still have at least half the Cal's Grease you so kindly sent, and it makes me remember you every time I use it! God bless!
my pleasure. anything else you need, let me know. ;D
QuoteWhat could be the cause of it? Have they been destroyed by too much axial load?
Axial load would not cause bearings to lockup unless completely destroyed. It would think it would create excessive wear and play if anything.
Quote
It is a reel that looks new... the insides show no evidence of corrosion, even the main bearing looks clean, apart from the grease in it.
I assume that the grease was clean? Was it standard issue Shimano or something else? If not, can you describe it?
Quote from: MFB on August 15, 2014, 07:51:49 AM
Hi Bruce,
Got one from Alan for my 30A. They are easy to swap over, just watch out for the detent spring on the high low switch on the handle it can jump out if you're not careful.
Rgds
Mark
Very nice looking reel. I found a similar reel with the black Tiburon frame, bearing and drag upgrades, in very good to excellent condition and wonder what a fair price would be.
So missing the line that says, resist the temptation to seperate the drive gears, I am requiring some assistance in reassembling the drive gear setup on a tld 50 2 speed.
Any help or pics will help
Thanks ben
i don't have a picture of the proper orientation. i'm guessing that either the gears or spacers are reversed?
Quote from: Ballsie1 on January 17, 2016, 07:27:10 AM
So missing the line that says, resist the temptation to seperate the drive gears, I am requiring some assistance in reassembling the drive gear setup on a tld 50 2 speed.
Any help or pics will help
Thanks ben
being there done that..
your best bet is to find another 2speed TLD and watch for the proper orientation of the gears and spacers, I know its not helping, but that was what I needed to do :-\
Thanks mate, I pulled apart my 30 2 speed to check today, all back together now.😉
Just wanted to drop a Thank You to Alan for this TLD 30 info. The tidbit about the shift button guard screws messing with the shift button if too tight just saved my bacon. Your site is priceless. Thanks!
Tim
Carlsbad, CA
glad it worked out for you!
I finished the rebuild on 2 of my 30's using the washers Alan supplied me with. I used TSI 301 on the spool bearings, used the washers inside the right spool bearings, did the bellview washer change, everything went well. The first reel ( the one with the tape on the spool ) did 20 lbs. drag with great freespool and no binding of the handle. The second one would hold 18 lbs. with great freespool, but lots of binding when turning the handle. I had to get the drag down to 12 lbs. before the handle would turn freely. Any suggestions as to what may be happening with reel #2 before I tear it apart again?
Thanks in advance,
Charlie
usually that means that the pinion (right main side plate) bearing is bad.
Right again! The pinion bearing had jammed from some grit that got in it. After cleaning and regreasing I got 22 lbs. of drag with everything working as it should. I can't wait to dropper loop a yellowtail in June.
Thanks Alan
Nice that you were able to renovate the bearing rather than having to replace it.
Anyone know where I can get an upgraded frame from? I have a TLD 30 2-Speed. Thanks!
Quote from: mrwilson99 on July 06, 2017, 08:12:33 AM
Anyone know where I can get an upgraded frame from? I have a TLD 30 2-Speed. Thanks!
Will Fish Tackle, 11944 Masters Ct, Auburn, CA 95603
(530) 887-0839
Quote from: Bryan Young on July 06, 2017, 08:48:32 AM
Quote from: mrwilson99 on July 06, 2017, 08:12:33 AM
Anyone know where I can get an upgraded frame from? I have a TLD 30 2-Speed. Thanks!
Will Fish Tackle, 11944 Masters Ct, Auburn, CA 95603
(530) 887-0839
Any idea Bryan what the price is on the frames? And would they post to Australia?
i have one tiburon frame left. let me know if you are interested.
Quote from: alantani on July 06, 2017, 01:49:28 PM
i have one tiburon frame left. let me know if you are interested.
hello S' Alan.
this newbie alan... thanks again for accepting me... I have a 20 and 30 2 speed's and I've been reading the thread.. its so useful...
i'm just wondering how much are the tib frames?...
appreciate much if you can just message me..
thanks...
alan
normally $190. i think i have one left that i'll sell for $150 plus shipping, but i have to FIND it first.
Bula Bosso!
It's been awhile, I hope you and the Mrs. are well.
Did you ever find that TLD 20II Tiburon frame?
If you still have it it'd be a privilege to take it off your hands :)
Erik
are you sure? if you really do want it, i'll ship it, but these are expensive as hell. i looked and can't find the clamp, either, so i'll have to give you a penn clamp . need your address again, but i can send it if you wish! alan
Bula Bosso,
I just remembered you already talked me out of it once before ;D ;D
Let me kick it around and come back to you.
Cheers!
can someone tell me the bearing size of the pinion bearing of the TLD 30II
I have the size of the spool bearing and left side bearing on the shaft
7x14x5
7x17x5
but I want to avoid opening the reel just to get the measure of the pinion bearing ;D
Bula Steelfish
Servicing all your TLD's today? ;D
Should be a 9x20x6
same as the Tyrnos
Cheers
thanks Erick, my question was posted on last march 15th so, the reel is already fixed and fishing, but thanks anyway
Quote from: alantani on January 14, 2018, 03:57:10 AM
are you sure? if you really do want it, i'll ship it, but these are expensive as hell. i looked and can't find the clamp, either, so i'll have to give you a penn clamp . need your address again, but i can send it if you wish! alan
Might be a long shot. I would like the frame! I would like to send you my reel to service too.
things here are a mess, but i should have a frame for you, also a handle, and would be happy to do the work. please bear in mind that you will be spending as much or more than the reel is worth and you would never be able to sell it and recoup your money. send a pm or email and we can talk more......
Just wanted to thank you Alan for this great tutorial. I received 7 of these reels for servicing in my shop and after reading your tutorial servicing was a breeze. Especially the tip about the spring going "boeing" I was able to avoid that and the one about not messing with the gear cluster.
Thanks again, Steve
you're welcomed. check out the handle upgrades when you get a chance!!!!
Will Fish Tackle still has 20 and 30 frames in black and silver. Handles are available as well. Great info on the service Alan.
Will Fish Tackle
11954 Masters Ct
Auburn, CA
530 887 0839
Ask for Craig
Alan, here's my modification of your handle knob.
I did it with a sandpaper barrel on my dremel.I like my thumb on the top of the handle. I kept messing with it til it felt right to me
hey, as long as it works for you! ;D
Quote from: alantani on April 21, 2022, 04:51:42 AMyou're welcomed. check out the handle upgrades when you get a chance!!!!
A few "1st ever" memories (wahoo, triple digit bft) on my 1st ever 2-spd so thought I'd do this.
Followed tutorial which undoubtedly saved me a fistful of disgust & frustration. Even then I managed to waste enough time trying to reinstall a slightly bent lug I took out to facilitate palming.
Thanks Alan for this resource & prompt shipping of handle. Fits like a glove.
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