ahhh, daiwa......
it seems like the argument is always penn versus shimano. daiwa makes a great line of reels. i think the saltiga is perhaps one of the finest small baitcasters made. first, pull the schematics.
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20Saltiga%2030T,%2040,%2050.pdf
here is my personal favorite. it's the 30T. well balanced, very powerful, it's small size makes casting a small sardine a piece of cake. i borrowed one of these on my one an only 10 day trips a couple of years ago and absolutely fell in love with the reel. everything about this reel says quality!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_103.jpg)
um, but this one had a small oops! a friend of mine had this loaded with spectra and was fishing for salmon dragging a 2.5 pound lead ball on a sinker release. he heard a pop, saw the spool displaced laterally and retired the reel for the day. then he brought it to me.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_104.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_105.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_106.jpg)
first, let's pull all of the left side plate screws (key #21) and remove the left side plate assembly (key #6).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_107.jpg)
the spool (ouch!) comes out cleanly, leaving you with three pieces.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_108.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_109.jpg)
the right spool bearing (key #3) needs to be cleaned first, so let's remove the rubber water shield (key #4), pull out the bearing, remove the bearing shields, clean the bearing and lube it up. for a full discussion on bearings, do a search under key word "bearings" and author name "alantani".
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_110.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_111.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_112.jpg)
the left side plate bearing (key #10) is buried pretty deep. i decided just to lube it up without pulling the shields. it should be fine.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_113.jpg)
ok, back together it goes. don't forget to add a bead of grease to all the screw holes. now, if all you want to do is lube, clean or replace the bearings, then this is as far as you need to go.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_114.jpg)
want to replace the drag washers? ok, onward! remove the handle nut screw (key #68), the handle nut (key #67) and the handle assembly (key #'s 61-66).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_115.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_116.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_117.jpg)
remove the star drag (key #59) and spacing sleeve B (key #60), the click spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58), the two drag spring washers (key #56) and bearing washer D (key #55).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_118.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_119.jpg)
ok, the handle and star are off. now for the right side plate. remove all of the right side plate screws (key #53).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_120.jpg)
wiggle the right side plate assembly (key #41, et.al.) and it should come straight up and off.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_121.jpg)
here's a little trick. the metal drag washers are often a little tough to remove. when you bolt down the handle nut, the spacing sleeve B (key #60) presses down on the shoulder of the drive shaft (key#24). the shoulder is slightly deformed. a couple of gentle strokes of a flat file will remove this "burr" and the gear and drag stack will come off easily. easy, not too much.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_122.jpg)
the gear cluster now comes off easily, revealing a carbon fiber drag washer installed several years ago by your's truly. we're going to remove these old penn drag washers, clean up all the metal washers and install a new set of carbontex drag washers.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_123.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_124.jpg)
not really much to this reel. it's actually very simple.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_125.jpg)
now for a new set of carbontex drag washers.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_126.jpg)
i'm going to slap a nice, thick juicy coat of drag grease on these washers because i know that really annoys those people that still do not belive in drag grease!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_128.jpg)
and then the drag stack goes back together. remember to alternate the metal washers; keyed, eared, keyed, eared, keyed. also add bearing washer D (key #55) and then spacing sleeve A (key #40). bearing washer D goes under the spacing sleeve. this is contrary to the schematics but it makes the installation easier.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_129.jpg)
i've got a ratty old toothbrush that i'm going to use to brush a light coat of grease all through the inside of the side plate. take a moment to squirt a little corrosion x into the right side plate bearing (key #43) as well.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_130.jpg)
the drive shaft bearing (key #54) is particularly at risk for corrosion. pop out the bearing, remove the shields, pack the bearing with grease, replace the bearing and install it back into the side plate.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_131.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_132.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_133.jpg)
add a bead of grease to all the screw holes.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_135.jpg)
if you did not monkey with the clutch lever (key #48) or the yoke plate (key #28), the right side plate should snap right back into place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_136.jpg)
install bearing washer D (key #55), a pair of drag spring washers (key # 56) cupped "( )", and the click leaf spring assembly (key #'s 57 and 58).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_142.jpg)
grease up the drive shaft (key #24). grease all the little crevasses on the star (key #59) and install it.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_138.jpg)
grease spacing sleeve B (key #60) and install it.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_139.jpg)
add a little grease to the handle arm (key #61) around the drive shaft, install the handle nut (key #67) and screw (key #68).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_140.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_141.jpg)
done! now we just have to see if daiwa will send us a new spool. this old spool never should have failed and i'm hoping daiwa will extent the warranty and send us a new one for free!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_108.jpg)
QuoteI have a Saltiga 50 that I want looked at and fixed up with better drag. I figure that you get many requests to work on reels and if you are not interested I understand. If you are interested please reply back. Thanks
i'd be happy to take a look at it. here's the saltiga post to give you an idea of what gets done. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=40.0 you have a handle upgrade option. i'd recommend the 4/0 if you are interested. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0 and here's the info on shipping and a few other items. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=277.0 please note a particular issue with the saltiga that i cannot guarantee for you. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=173.0 if the frame cracks, you will have to live with it or replace at cost, and cost is $200. it happened only once to me, and i will be VERY careful, but it is not something i can cover for you if it happens again. a friend of mine, who is VERY skilled, broke two in a row and is probably 2 for 20. i am only 1 for 20. thanks! alan
I just finished cleaning two of these reels that were used for 2 years on the charter boat I ocasionaly work on and I will have to say they are a well built reel and easy to work on.
I have been unable to purchase a spare Anti Reverse Bearing for a Saltiga30 as it is part of the Right Side Plate assembly costing $160 and is not sold separately in the UK. The inner part of the bearing item 42 is shown on the schematics (just above the drag stack) as a separate item although the outer part is obviously contained within the Right Side Plate item 41. The parts list is confusing as there is another item 42 handle,listed!
Anyone here replaced this A/R Bearing or know where it can be obtained?
http://schematics.planetseafishing.com/downloads/daiwa/multipliers/saltiga-series/saltiga-30t.pdf
you'll have to measure it and find a match here. http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-types/one-way-bearings
Thank's Alan,will check it out.
Alan,
Do you recall what the part numbers are for the HT-100 drags for this reel? I cant seem to find them on the HT-100 size chart.
Thanx,
Leo
this is one situation where carbontex really is the best option. the penn ht-100's are too thick.
Hi all,
Jus want to have some info on some of these reels.
whats the difference between saltiga Z30 n 30T?
thank u in advance
yai
Yai,
I don't know all the differences, but the one that sticks out at me the most is the auto-engaging (by the turn of the handle) from free spool that the Z-series has. To me that's a nice idea when you're live lining a striper ;) I've been looking for a used Z20L for a decent price for a while, but have only found one for $400 in near mint, so far :'(
Go for the "Z" if ya got the dough,
Dom
Hey Dom,
Yeah i managed to get a steal from a forum for a z30L at sgd450.
i do have a JM PE7, Accu bx500n as well so the newly acquired reel will be for my pe2-4 setup mainly for jigging.....
tq for the advice
yai
Glad to see you got the Z series... now I'm jealous ;D
Out of curiosity... whatcha fishing for?
Hope you enjoy it bro,
Dom
Tks Dom, bet u have few gd reels urself. Lols!!
Mainly targetting at macks, GTs when I get to Malaysian n Indonesian waters.
Or AJs should i go to oil rigs....
Yai,
Sounds like fun, and with that Saltiga your gonna have a blast!
Best of luck,
Dom
Tq Dom.....
likewise to u too.
cheers,
yai
I have a question regarding the clicker.
I have a few of the 30T's and i'm having an issue with the clicker slipping.
If i put it into the "non-clicker" mode, it will slip down into the "clicker" mode.
Is there an easy fix for this?
Super glue.
Quote from: Irish Jigger on July 11, 2012, 10:48:08 PM
Super glue.
thanks for my chuckle for the day!
the spring is probably loose. you will have to pull it out, squeeze it together, then put it back it and see how well it holds. they are finnicky to say the least.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_113.jpg)
Hi Alan,
I have a problem for my Saltiga 30T, not serious but just feel like to know if this happened also to some others.
It happened since the first day I bought this reel, after I tight the drag and try to release it, the drag will become loose only when I do one or half cranking. It will also happen if I tight the drag from loose (The drag will act tighter only after one of half cranking). After first cranking the drag is not bad still smooth. Actually this problem is getting better after I have used this reel for three seasons.
I also have two Saltist 30t, I do not have this kind problem. I can get the drag set up as I like immediately and do not have to wait it effect after cranking.
Do you see this kind problem before?
Thanks,
Jason
I was serious about using super glue to silence the darn thing ;) I don't have a need for a clicker and bought a Saltiga 30 purely because it does'nt have one. I find them annoying to say the least.
Quote from: ducati-748 on July 12, 2012, 04:30:54 AM
Hi Alan, I have a problem for my Saltiga 30T, not serious but just feel like to know if this happened also to some others. It happened since the first day I bought this reel, after I tight the drag and try to release it, the drag will become loose only when I do one or half cranking. It will also happen if I tight the drag from loose (The drag will act tighter only after one of half cranking). After first cranking the drag is not bad still smooth. Actually this problem is getting better after I have used this reel for three seasons. I also have two Saltist 30t, I do not have this kind problem. I can get the drag set up as I like immediately and do not have to wait it effect after cranking. Do you see this kind problem before? Thanks, Jason
it usually happend when the metal drag washers are out of order the the slotted washer is on top. otherwise, no.....
Alan,
Thanks. So if I want to fix this problem I need to replace a new metal washer ?
Or it can be improved if I send it for a service?
i would be curious to take a look, but follow the tutorial and the schematics first. let's see if there is a problem that can be fixed.
I am trying to recover a sad Saltiga 30T. The freespool lever would not move.
I removed the handle side case and it appears the pinion gear is seized to the spool shaft. There is a lot of corrosion. Any ideas on how to pry that pinion off the spool shaft?
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a489/bb2fish/Daiwa%20Saltist%2030T/IMG_0332_zpscfc73dbc.jpg)
I also broke a bit driver trying to get into the case screws, so a suggestion there would help - still can't get the clicker side removed. Where can i get a good sturdy driver bit that is narrow to fit in these screws recessed to the body?
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a489/bb2fish/Daiwa%20Saltist%2030T/IMG_0334_zps1e9b067f.jpg)
Quote from: bb2fish on March 16, 2013, 09:30:31 PM
I am trying to recover a sad Saltiga 30T. The freespool lever would not move.
I removed the handle side case and it appears the pinion gear is seized to the spool shaft. There is a lot of corrosion. Any ideas on how to pry that pinion off the spool shaft?
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a489/bb2fish/Daiwa%20Saltist%2030T/IMG_0332_zpscfc73dbc.jpg)
I also broke a bit driver trying to get into the case screws, so a suggestion there would help - still can't get the clicker side removed. Where can i get a good sturdy driver bit that is narrow to fit in these screws recessed to the body?
(http://i1280.photobucket.com/albums/a489/bb2fish/Daiwa%20Saltist%2030T/IMG_0334_zps1e9b067f.jpg)
First thing to do is to soak the parts in your favorite rust remover ie Corrosion-X/Liquid Wrench/WD-40 etc. At least overnight if you have the time.
Some light taps can break up the corrosion crusts and then after that, you have to try some of the liquid nitrogen sprays to get the screw/spindle to shrink and they should come off.
best
Hi, Im new to the site, seen your posts and found a lot of great info o this site, which lead me to join. Great stuff. Im trying to grease my Saltiga 30, and free it up as it began to randomly freeze/lock up from time to time. When I opened it up, I found that the handle post itself is rather wobbly. It seems there is no way to tighten it? Is that normal, for it to be wobbly? The threaded handle post itself. Thanks
bb,
Here's what I'd do... Remove the CF drag washers, pick up a bottle of salt away (using a 50/50 mix with water) dunk the entire reel overnight in it, and see how it is the next day. If nothing else I can guarantee the reel will be salt free in and out. If you can't get things moving then I'd go with a CLR bath (not overnight-just an hour or so at a time. If no movement by then go with Kroil in every crevice. If nothing by then I'd go with two screwdrivers under the pinion to lift simultaneously or little on each side at a time (use 2 people if you can.) If nothing by then go with the nitrogen if you an get your hands on it. I haven't had to mess with it because I am too impatient. I tried what I've written and if nothing by then I go nuts and wind up bending/breaking something... hopefully the pinion not the spindle ;)
As for the side plate screws I just use a regular flat head that fits perfect with a wide rubber band over the tip to prevent slippage. Someone here recommended it to me a while back and use it regularly now... works like a charm.
Remember to Tani-ize it before it hits the water next time... much of that corrosion could have been prevented with it.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
Dom
Regarding the excessive 'wobble' you're experiencing with the drive shaft; is it noticeable when the right side plate has been removed? The drive shaft is supported by the Anti Reverse Bearing (ARB) and it's sleeve. It's also supported by the drive shaft bearing found directly above the ARB. Once the right side plate has been removed, naturally there will be excessive 'wobble'. Nothing to worry about.
Tani-ize your reel as suggested by Dom, and it will greatly help for the reels next service (easily dismantled like an off the shelf reel).
Fish'
jim's saltiga 50 just blew up. same problem.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_29_29_109102375.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_29_41_10911734.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_29_52_10912580.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_30_04_109131217.jpeg)
unbelievable!!!! maybe he's using too much drag(not within specs)... ??? ??? ???
I modified a Saltist 30T with a Duracoat finish and replaced the left and right side plate screws with stainless Allen head machine screws. Took some looking but they're out there. I bought Boca spool bearings, reassembled the reel with Tani-ized interior, with marine grease film everywhere and Smoothdrag woven carbon fiber drag discs, and Cal's drag grease. Also, inspired by a tutorial done by a guy in Australia, I installed a rabbit ear spring on the Ambassadeur-style anti-reverse dog. The Aussie gentleman made his from a ballpoint pen spring, but I made mine from titanium single strand leader wire. Very "springy" and no chance of ever corroding. I sent the whole thing down to Alan for his bearing magic, and had him install a longer crank arm (Fleabay) and one his excellent Kolekar handles. The Allen head screws seemed like a no-brainer, as exemplified on this thread by the busted screwdriver, though on my reel, seized screws are not gonna' be a problem. I bought the reel used, with the usual dinged-up paint job, on the Bloodydecks Classified page, and it was obvious when it arrived that it had never been serviced. It was dry (very little lube), with a grindy pinion bearing, but not corroded.
Back from Alan Tani, it spins like a top, so hopefully if there are a lot of anchovies in the bait slammers of San Diego's long range fleet this summer, the little buggers will be able to pull line okay.
Bottom line: If you don't mind a little sleuthing at the industrial fastener supply houses in your area, you can come up with Allen replacements for the stock side plate screws.
Quote from: alantani on April 01, 2014, 11:44:29 PM
jim's saltiga 50 just blew up. same problem.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_29_29_109102375.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_29_41_10911734.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_29_52_10912580.jpeg)
(http://alantani.com/gallery/10/1_01_04_14_4_30_04_109131217.jpeg)
I'm thinking there is a sticky drag at least contributing here?
Falconer,
Please post pictures of the rabbit ear spring and details. Also post some pictures of your Duracoat job.
Thanx,
Leo
Sorry for not replying earlier. I forget to follow up comments sometimes! Gotta' go to the other computer here the photos are. Might need to crack the right side of the reel if I forgot to photograph the spring. The New Zealand guy, "Reefman", (I misidentified him as Australian earlier) has his spring arrangement photographed at: http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=1495.0. He used a spring from a Bic pen. I used a piece of Toothproof titanium single strand leader wire.
Here's a photo of my Durocoated Saltist 30T, after its return from Alan Tani with Tani-ized bearings and Kolekar handle installation. The Cobalt Blue color is actually darker than my camera shows.
I did not take it apart to photograph the titanium anti-reverse dog spring, but in a previous post included a link to the guy in New Zealand ("Reefman") who inspired it, with the modified Bic pen spring he installed in his Saltist 50H. His photos are excellent and very diagnostic: http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=1495.0
Falconer,
Thanx for the update.
Leo
i have the salitga 50t, and i let a friend use it on the charter boat, and i now notice that the clutch lever is crooked and has alot of play in it, from side to side. theres also like a ring that i see is crack in the bottom part of the lever, anyone know how much this would cost to fix???
did changing the drag washers to carbon, up the drag pressure?
Quote from: Irish Jigger on February 22, 2012, 01:37:05 AM
Thank's Alan,will check it out.
It's been a while since anyone posted a question here but I still regularly use and service my saltiga 40 and 30t. Im having issues with my clicker engaging on aggressive casts. Any suggestions on how to make my clicker knob tighter and not have it move around without myself engaging it?
First time I read this thread...........
Quote from: falconer on April 20, 2014, 06:20:20 PM
Sorry for not replying earlier. I forget to follow up comments sometimes! Gotta' go to the other computer here the photos are. Might need to crack the right side of the reel if I forgot to photograph the spring. The New Zealand guy, "Reefman", (I misidentified him as Australian earlier) has his spring arrangement photographed at: http://www.ultimateangling.co.za/index.php?topic=1495.0. He used a spring from a Bic pen. I used a piece of Toothproof titanium single strand leader wire.
Not Oz nor New Zealand guy, he is a well known dentist in South Africa and participant in many fishing forums. ???
As to the broken spool, I have a 40 HK, not long after i got it in 2006 the spool broke in precicely the same way and for no reason of abuse. Diawa would not replace it but eventually sold me a new one at 1/2 price.
After replacing the spool, Ive used the reel a lot and caught numerous Yellowfin Tuna (up to about 65kg) and large Albacore on it and it has served me well.
Other minor trouble I've had:-
* Clutch lever spring broke and a piece got in to gears and messed up the Pionion which I had to replace.
* Drag got cooked on Yellowfin (happens) ;D
Just saw this colourful photo of a young Yellowfin on my computer and thought I'd add it to this post, cought Feb 2014! I estimate about 50 kg.
Quote from: Anglerboi on July 21, 2018, 09:48:13 AM
Quote from: Irish Jigger on February 22, 2012, 01:37:05 AM
Thank's Alan,will check it out.
It's been a while since anyone posted a question here but I still regularly use and service my saltiga 40 and 30t. Im having issues with my clicker engaging on aggressive casts. Any suggestions on how to make my clicker knob tighter and not have it move around without myself engaging it?
gotta squeeze the spring together a little tighter.
Quote from: alantani on July 21, 2018, 03:49:10 PM
Quote from: Anglerboi on July 21, 2018, 09:48:13 AM
Quote from: Irish Jigger on February 22, 2012, 01:37:05 AM
Thank's Alan,will check it out.
It's been a while since anyone posted a question here but I still regularly use and service my saltiga 40 and 30t. Im having issues with my clicker engaging on aggressive casts. Any suggestions on how to make my clicker knob tighter and not have it move around without myself engaging it?
gotta squeeze the spring together a little tighter.
I got it, I will try this today today. Thank you
Do those Saltiga's have graphite spools?
Quote from: MarkT on July 21, 2018, 07:20:56 PM
Do those Saltiga's have graphite spools?
Some type of Alloy.
At the time when mine broke they told me that there had been some issues with the spools and that it had been fixed. Probably true as Ive not heard of similar problems since then.
PS. Just looked up my old spool and made a photo. The silver area on the top edge of the spool is the result of casting wear by thumb.
aluminum.
I maybe on the wrong track here but, with the spools cracking like that, are these spools fully loaded with mono line, is it possible that the mono line is placed on the spool in the summer, causing the mono to stretch, then when the cold of winter moves in the mono shrinks, creating to much presser on the spool, maybe the mono should be loaded in the winter, or use braid with a short mono top shot, maybe, cheers Don.
maybe, but i really think it's a manufacturing issue...... :-\
Yeah, it has to be a mfg defect. Mono put on tight then expanding shouldn't be able to do that on an aluminum spool. Those spools look like old plastic spools spread by mono back in the day. Daiwa should've just swapped out the spools when that happened.
Quote from: Donnyboat on July 22, 2018, 02:46:27 PM
I maybe on the wrong track here but, with the spools cracking like that, are these spools fully loaded with mono line, is it possible that the mono line is placed on the spool in the summer, causing the mono to stretch, then when the cold of winter moves in the mono shrinks, creating to much presser on the spool, maybe the mono should be loaded in the winter, or use braid with a short mono top shot, maybe, cheers Don.
I have seen this happen on an ABU 70000 in just a few days!
One factor involved may be line water absorption.
Mono wound under too much tension has the power to deform or break a light spool.
Would not be a problem on a solid heavy game spool though.
~
Hi Alan;
Thanks for the tip on how to remove the spacer. I used 220 grit sand paper. I was losing my mind.
cheers