fast and cheap. not a bad combination. fast means big gears and big drag washers. cheap in price, perfectly decent in quality. here's a link to the schematic ......
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20Sealine%20-%20X20SHV,%20X30SHV.pdf
and here is our reel, beat to a pulp, down but not out.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_143.jpg)
this is a casting reel. for now, and in the future, we can service the bearings by pulling just the left side plate and spool. nice design. remove the three left side plate screws (key #1).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_144.jpg)
that's all it takes to pull the spool.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_145.jpg)
if this reel is going to used for distance casting and you will be servicing the bearings frequently, then let's remove all of the hardware covering/protecting the left spool bearing (key #9) to allow easy access. otherwise, let's leave it covered and just lube it up.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_146.jpg)
the right spool bearing (key #23) is highly vulnerable and frequently fails.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_147.jpg)
at the very least, let'd pull it out and remove the shields. remove both bearing retainer screws (key #20) and the bearing retainer A (key #19).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_148.jpg)
review the bearings post for a description of the different types of bearings and maintenance options.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_149.jpg)
i've opted to clean this bearing and lube it with corrosion x. if casting was not an issue, you could pack the bearing with grease as discussed in the bearing post.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_150.jpg)
back in it goes.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_151.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_152.jpg)
reinstall the spool (key #17).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_153.jpg)
reinstall the left side plate assembly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_154.jpg)
now, for the right side plate assembly. first, let's remove the handle nut plate (key #78) by pushing on two small tabs underneath the handle arm.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_155.jpg)
ok, so these daiwa's are not the most corrosion resistant reels in the world. actually, any reel with a handle nut cap has problems. i see this commonly. remove the handle nut (key #77). then remove the handle (key #76). this is where it can get ugly. if it's badly stuck, then wiggle it anyway you can just to loosen it a little, then start backing out the star (key #74) counterclockwise to force the handle off. yes, you run the risk of damaging the star and/or the drive shaft (key #59). you could soak it in penetrating oil first, but, honestly, this usually works.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_156.jpg)
see, i told you it would work!!!!!! now, remove the spacing sleeve (key #75) and the star drag (key #74).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_157.jpg)
remove the drag spring washers (key #73) and bearing washer B (key #72). note that the spring washers are cupped "()".
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_158.jpg)
now for the right side plate. remove the four right side plate screw A's (key #46) and the two right side plate screw B's (key #47). take note, they are different. also, there is no need to remove the clutch lever (key #42) or the cast control cap (key #54), so let's leave them in place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_159.jpg)
remove the right side plate assembly (key #41). it will lift off cleanly. note that the bearing (key #71) stayed with the side plate. pull it out and set it in line with everything else, or just leave it there for now.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_160.jpg)
remove collar B (key #70).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_161.jpg)
remove collar A (key #69) and the water shield (key #68).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_162.jpg)
remove o-ring C (key #67). look carefully, it's there, and it's a hassle to remove. if you tear it, don't worry. it's no big deal.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_163.jpg)
when you bolt down the handle, a small burr forms on the drive shaft (key #59). to make it easier to remove the metal drag washer and the main gear, let's take a flat file and file off the burr.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_164.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_165.jpg)
now the entire gear cluster slides right off.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_166.jpg)
separate everything out, keep things in order, and clean everything up. note that the metal washers alternate keyed (key #65) - eared (key #66) - keyed (key #65).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_167.jpg)
these felt washers started out off-white and often turn to black.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_168.jpg)
until smoothdrag.com has a set of carbontex washers for this reel, you'll have to use penn ht-100 washers. the smaller washer is a penn ht-100 #6-965 that has been ground down to a 15mm outer diameter. you can use the full sized washer, though, and it goes under the gear. the three larger washers go inside the gear. they are part #56-440. the fit is not exact, and you have to cut off the "keys," but it's close enough until a set of carbotex washers become available. the washers are available from your local penn dealer, or from mysticparts.com.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_169.jpg)
slap a thick coat of shimano or cal's drag grease on the drag washers. let the excess ooze out the sides.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_170.jpg)
rebuild the drag stack and alternate the metal washers "keyed/eared/keyed."
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_171.jpg)
replace the o-ring (key #67) if you still have it.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_172.jpg)
replace collar A (key #69) and the water shield (key #68).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_173.jpg)
replace collar B (key #70) and make sure it goes in "skinny side up."
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_174.jpg)
almost there. everything ok so far?
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_175.jpg)
now, about that bearing (key #71). sorry, it's toast. it's a very common problem. and don't be disappointed. not a single reel manufacturer anywhere, from accurate to zelina, will take the time to adequately pack these drive shaft bearings with grease.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_176.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_177.jpg)
so let's replace it with a new bearing, pack that bearing with grease and put it back on the drive shaft.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_178.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_179.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_180.jpg)
let's install the side plate (key #41). first, the round peg on the clutch cam (key #39) has to match up with the oval hole of the yoke plate (key #28).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/Picture_1811.jpg)
second, the point of the pinion shaft (key #49) has to match up with the hole in the pinion gear (key #32).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/Picture_1821.jpg)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/Picture_1831.jpg)
ok, everything is lined up properly, right?
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_184.jpg)
perfect! you're in!!! no? ok, wiggle the clutch lever (key #42) just a little. got it!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_185.jpg)
reinstall side plate screws A (key #46) and B (key #47).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_186.jpg)
paint a little grease on the drive shaft (key #59). remember all the trouble we had getting the handle off?
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_187.jpg)
install the bearing washer B (key #72) and the drag spring washers (key #73) oriented "()".
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_188.jpg)
install the star (key #74).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_189.jpg)
paint a little grease on the spacing sleeve (key #75) and install it.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_190.jpg)
install the handle (key #76), the handle nut (key #77), paint on a little extra grease and then install the handle nut cap (key #78).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_192.jpg)
done!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_193.jpg)
ok, a couple of editorial comments. these reels cast great. the speed shaft means that you do not have a spool shaft hanging up on the pinion gear to slow down the spool. these reels, then, will cast just as well as a lever drag reel that has a spool with the same overall mass. the drags are huge, but you get that with any high speed star drag reel. i've never heard of any of these graphite frames breaking and these frames do not corrode. and lastly, i hate the handles. hey, three out of four is not so bad. so if you're looking for a fast, light, strong, inexpensive reel, take a look at the daiwa sealine-x!
Alan, if you were to compare this reel with another like a penn gs555, what would you say?
pretty much a toss up. the penn has carbon fiber drag washers already but it needs one under the main gear. the daiwa needs three. you have to open both of the and grease them anyway, so neither one has the advantage. :-\
Alan thank you for this awesome site.
Just a quick clarification, "penn ht-100 #6-965 that has been ground down to a 15mm outer diameter. you can use the full sized washer, though" so it is no problem using the standard size penn ht-100 #6-965 washer?
Also Cals reel and drag grease can be used as a substitute for Yamaha Marine grease?
This is all pretty new to me and trying to avoid any confusion on my end.
Thanks again.
dawn at smoothdrag.com now has a carbontex drag set for this reel, so there is no more guessing or grinding. cal's is ok to use, but i have seen it harden up a bit and it IS very expensive.
Hey Alan.
I too cannot stand these handles!
I have a 20, 30, 40, and 50.
What are the handle replacement choices?
FISHNFF
i would just drill out the old grip and bolt on a 2/0 or 4/0 kolekar grip. http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0
Alan,
I took out the felt and the metal cover that holds it from the left side-plate of my 20 shv. Seems to freespool better. Any problem with this, as long as I keep it maintained?
Joe
it should work fine!
The schematic link is broken. Will the schematic for the SL50SH work?
Here, fixed it for you: ;D
http://daiwa.com/PartsDiagram/PartsDiagram/SL20_30SH.pdf
Hi... I used this tutorial to service my SL20SHB and it was almost identical. One difference though was the right spool bearing. There was no details bearing retainer and the bearing seems to be encased in the frame itself. Has anyone seen this or know what I'm talking about?
Cheers,
Saul
check the schematic. there is usually a retainer of some sort.
Anyone have a good solution for getting the little screw off next to the handle nut? I have tried penetrating spray, heating it, but that is a little tricky with plastic star drag.
just soak it and see if you can force it off. chances are that it's badly seized and will just shear off anyway. you may have to drill and tap it later. these are always a mess!
I just got a Sealine 40 SHV that is bit different that the one on initial posts from AT
the right spool bearing retainer its not a metal flange its a plastic tripod (sic, kind of)
so the bearing instead of stay on the frame comes with the spool everytime I took the spool from the frame.
but thats not that bad, the really bad situation and where I need your help is that same bearing is stuck on the spool shaft
I have tried WD-40, inox, corrosion x, and small push with a flat screwdriver but no luck
the bearing its not toast already, it spins freely but I dont know how good it would be once casting 3-4oz
the thing is that I cannot take it out
any help?
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/IMAG1688%20ss_zps1feiqrpt.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/IMAG1688%20ss_zps1feiqrpt.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/IMAG1707%20ss_zpsywsbef4f.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/IMAG1707%20ss_zpsywsbef4f.jpg.html)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/IMAG1701%20ss_zpsqfhqhrm5.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/IMAG1701%20ss_zpsqfhqhrm5.jpg.html)
it was pretty dirty, but not toasted
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/IMAG1696%20ss_zpsytnsx5ot.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/alextellofotos/media/carrretes/IMAG1696%20ss_zpsytnsx5ot.jpg.html)
I just noticed your post Steelfish and hoped you solved your trouble (its been nearly a year) :).
In such cases one way to go about it is with heat. If you take a soldering iron and heat the spool shaft, then rapidly cool it with a penetrating oil like Corrosion-X it can break up the rust that has it seized. Stainless to Stainless corrosion is notoriously strong and tough to deal with.
Also, take 2 screw drivers on either side of the bearing and use it to "rock" the bearing back and forth. This is very useful also when you can get 2 on a seized part.
buena suerte!
Let us know how it turned out.
Quote from: johndtuttle on May 30, 2016, 06:09:22 PM
Also, take 2 screw drivers on either side of the bearing and use it to "rock" the bearing back and forth. This is very useful also when you can get 2 on a seized part.
I dont remember on which other thread I got the same advise from Bryan or maybe it was by PM but forgot to update this thread, that tip worked out pretty good, I was able to to get the bearing out but not without a good fight, I left some ugly marks on the spool from the screwdrivers tips but it worth it, it was so stuck there that after many minutes trying it was more like a persona thing against that bearing LOL, well I also did it like that because I found the reel pretty cheap on a fleamarket and the worst it could happened it was to get a new spool, which it wasnt necesary.
the scars of the battle
(http://alantani.com/gallery/14/3592_30_05_16_5_38_36_14388322.jpeg)
but finally I could put new bearing on the reel, this pic is with the new bearing already, I also lost the plastic thingy (bearing retainer), but read in few places that its not really needed.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/14/3592_30_05_16_5_38_35_143871702.jpeg)
th guts were in pretty good shape, SS showd no signs of corrosion at all, so I just serviced it "Alantani way", yamaha on metal and tsi 321 on bearings.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/14/3592_30_05_16_5_57_32_143892156.jpeg)
the reel is now spooled with 150yds 50# braid and filled to the brim with 30# mono and its one of my loaner reels, it cast like a dream, pretty much its like one of those old jigmaster with plenty of life to go.
(http://alantani.com/gallery/14/3592_30_05_16_5_57_33_14390405.jpeg)
Tutorial in PDF Format for easy download . . .
Tight Lines !
I always drill and retap because the threads also break quickly. I also replace the plastic handle nut retainer with a metal one.
Quote from: floating doc on July 13, 2012, 02:58:56 PM
The schematic link is broken. Will the schematic for the SL50SH work?
These links work . . .
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/daiwa-sl-x20shv-30shv/ (http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/daiwa-sl-x20shv-30shv/)www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/SL-X20SHV_30SHV.pdf (http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/SL-X20SHV_30SHV.pdf)Tight Lines !
Quote from: steelfish on July 04, 2015, 12:13:41 AM
I just got a Sealine 40 SHV that is bit different that the one on initial posts from AT
the right spool bearing retainer its not a metal flange its a plastic tripod (sic, kind of)
so the bearing instead of stay on the frame comes with the spool everytime I took the spool from the frame.
but thats not that bad, the really bad situation and where I need your help is that same bearing is stuck on the spool shaft
I have tried WD-40, inox, corrosion x, and small push with a flat screwdriver but no luck
the bearing its not toast already, it spins freely but I dont know how good it would be once casting 3-4oz
the thing is that I cannot take it out
any help?
Steelfish,
Here is the schematic for the X40SHV . . .
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/daiwa-sl-x40shv-50shv/ (http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/daiwa-sl-x40shv-50shv/)
http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/SL-X40SHV-50SHV.pdf (http://www.mikesreelrepair.com/content/schematics/SL-X40SHV-50SHV.pdf)Tight Lines !
thanks amigo
Im not longer have the reel, I gave it to a close friend that wanted to start fishing but didnt wanted to spend big money on shiny aluminum reels or heavy ones for local fishing, this was a spare of my regular spare reel and I always use two go-to reels ;D ::), so this never left the storage room after fixed until I gave it to this guy.
I have a 50hv I'm servicing and adding smooth drags cf washers, but didn't see how the spring attached to the dog and I'm stuck, wish I had a pic or two to show me what to do... I'll just keep fiddling with it and hopefully I'll figure her out...
UPDATE: I figured out the tricky spring, just needed to walk away and come back to it, smooth as butter now. I have one more just like it and working on it tomorrow
then they'll be going Kingfishing next week... SMOKAAAA