Reel Repair by Alan Tani

G'day all,
Here's a little rundown on servicing the Everol 12/0.
I believe the red drag plate is indicative of a 1970s' model, which was followed by the black plate in the '80s (Dr Rob may be able to confirm or correct this, however).

• (Edit: "'Black' scales were produced in the 1960s and into 1972. These were followed by the 'Red' scale of the 1970s...." from http://www.everol.com/index.php/our-company/ (http://www.everol.com/index.php/our-company/))

This one has had a fairly hard life and hasn't seen a service in at least a decade.
Like the Duel I did some time back (here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2573.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2573.0)), this reel is beautifully designed and engineered, and the alloy quality (and anodising) is of the highest standard.
I grew up dreaming of one day owning an Everol and, for me, the brand is emblematic of all that's best about fishing - along with Zane Grey's Tales of the Angler's Eldorado, Hemmingway's The Old Man and the Sea.
Righto, let's get into it - might want to grab a beer or a coffee for this one, might be a while... ;)

A couple of scene-setters...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_24_20001613.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_24_20002790.jpeg)

Remove the handle bolt and washers.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_25_20003964.jpeg)

Remove the keyed washer.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_25_20004739.jpeg)

Loosen the 10 outer frame screws (for some ungodly reason, these hex heads are 7/64th).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_26_200062346.jpeg)

The lube port bolt was frozen so, following a little penetrating oil, I loosened it with a large flathead.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_26_200051544.jpeg)

Loosen the four gear housing hex heads.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_26_20007495.jpeg)

It's a bit of a mess inside the gear housing, with rust having really taken hold.
There's a nice, hefty set of double sprung dogs, however.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_27_20008439.jpeg)

The main shaft and pinion gear are integral, with the keyed portion actuating the drag plates beneath.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_27_20009314.jpeg)

The drag lever just lifts off.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_28_200102296.jpeg)

This external spring wire is an effective drag range limiter, ie pivot the loops to where you'd like 'strike' or 'max' to be for a given application and the lever will go no further.
Simply pull a loop as shown and it pops off.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_28_200111939.jpeg)

Off comes the side plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_28_200122005.jpeg)

Beneath which are the drag plates, the first being keyed stainless.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_29_200131334.jpeg)

The remaining plates are held in place by an internal wire ring.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_29_20014183.jpeg)

A double-sided eared stainless/fiber washer is next...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_29_200151304.jpeg)

Followed by the second keyed stainless plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_30_20016440.jpeg)

Last is a single-sided eared stainless/fiber washer.
Note the six small springs pressed onto the ears.
These are lightly held in place by burrs produced by punching the S/S and will readily pop off if bumped.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_30_200171112.jpeg)

Beneath this last drag plates is an array of 16 springs, very like the Duel.
11 are 'hour-glass' in shape and the remaining five are conical.
Like the Duel, drag capacity can be increased/customised by adding springs.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_31_20018643.jpeg)

The spool can now be separated from the frame.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_31_200191143.jpeg)

Corrosion had taken a toll on this, with one headless hex in a predictable spot - the right harness lug.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_31_200201653.jpeg)

Much like Erik's recent problem with a headless lug screw, there was enough thread remaining to grasp with vice-grips...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_31_200211653.jpeg)

And turn out (once again, with a little help from some penetrating oil).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_32_2002223.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_32_200232425.jpeg)

Continuing with the dismantle, loosen the 10 left side plate screws.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_33_200241526.jpeg)

One had earlier been replaced with a metric M3.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_33_20025740.jpeg)

Remove the eight hex screws from the reel seat.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_33_2002637.jpeg)

The frame is now separated into the reel seat, top/lug plate, side plates and three S/S frame posts.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_34_200271572.jpeg)

The two spool bearings are 12 x 24 x 6mm.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_34_20028403.jpeg)

I'd left the lube port nut in place till ready to work on this as a unit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_34_200292413.jpeg)

While the rust looks pretty advanced, there was little in the way of pitting or real corrosion on the main gear.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_35_200301828.jpeg)

The ratchet gear, main gear and handle shaft are all integral, ie turned/milled from a single piece of steel.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_35_200312254.jpeg)

The right side plate bearing is 7 x 17 x 5mm.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_36_200321512.jpeg)

Once again, this lube port was frozen, but coaxed free with Kroil and a big flathead.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_36_200331029.jpeg)

The clicker assembly is held in place with an external circlip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_36_200341673.jpeg)

The assembly itself is composed of six removable parts.
From the bottom here:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_37_200351392.jpeg)

...and from the top:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_37_200362065.jpeg)

The respective components:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_37_200371308.jpeg)

Cleaned and ready for reassembly.
Note the alloy post has a small spring loosely pressed onto a lip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_38_200382179.jpeg)

Insert the post into the top of the assembly, spring facing outwards.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_38_200391280.jpeg)

Reaffix the cover plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_38_20040503.jpeg)

Insert the second spring into the cavity.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_37_39_200411138.jpeg)

And fit the ball bearing onto the spring - it sits lightly in place, but slides freely into the cavity if pressed.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_33_200432308.jpeg)

Replace the washer...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_33_2004464.jpeg)

And refit the clicker assembly, aligning the ball bearing with one of the two dips milled into the side plate.
Fasten in place with the circlip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_33_20045969.jpeg)

The left side plate bearing is also 12 x 24 x 6mm.
The shields were pressed, so had to be discarded once removed.
(A little movement of grease over time from within the bearing isn't a major concern in this instance.)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_34_20046816.jpeg)

Refit the reel seat plate and three S/S frame posts, with a little grease in each screw hole and between the plate and frame surfaces.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_34_20047296.jpeg)

The lug and top plate can also be refixed...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_35_20048126.jpeg)

The reel seat is a common spot for salt build-up and corrosion, so this was soaked in vinegar, then Simple Green (to neutralise), the thoroughly cleaned of any remaining corrosion with a dental tool.
A good coating of marine grease comes next, with special attention paid to getting grease thoroughly into the pitting.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_35_20049302.jpeg)

Refit the reel seat.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_36_200501118.jpeg)

Onto the spool now - left side first. Clean and coat lightly with grease.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_36_200511822.jpeg)

Refit the cleaned and repacked spool bearing (trolling only for this monster, so free spool is inconsequential).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_36_200521265.jpeg)

Refit the clicker plate and three screws.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_37_200531318.jpeg)

A thrust washer (12mm ID) fits between the left side plate and spool bearings.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_37_200542430.jpeg)

Like so...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_38_200552324.jpeg)

Refit the spool into the frame.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_38_20056430.jpeg)

Replace the 16 drag springs...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_38_200571007.jpeg)

And right side spool bearing.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_39_20058268.jpeg)

First in is the sprung, eared drag plate...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_39_20059598.jpeg)

Followed by the first stainless keyed plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_40_200601633.jpeg)

The double-sided eared plate...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_40_20061373.jpeg)

And the final keyed drag plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_40_200622338.jpeg)

The internal spring clip can be refitted - back in place here...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_41_20063957.jpeg)

The main shaft simply slides back in, but must align with the two keyed drag plates and may require some finessing.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_41_20064625.jpeg)

How it should look at this point:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_42_200652451.jpeg)

Onto the right side plate...
This sun-shaped plate conceals a large bearing.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_42_20066470.jpeg)

An external circlip holds this bearing assembly in place.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_42_200672425.jpeg)

Once the circlip is removed, the top race lifts away, revealing...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_43_20068338.jpeg)

A flat bearing 'cage' and 14 ball bearings.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_43_20069740.jpeg)

This leaves the bottom race and the drag lever's actuating mechanism.
Note the mono which has become wrapped in the threaded 'sleeve' - it's been in there a while as it doesn't match the current mono spooled on the reel.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_44_20070596.jpeg)

The actuating mechanism or sleeve has an interlocking thread, one above and another below the side plate.
Remove the top half of the threaded sleeve (and belleville washer).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_44_200711628.jpeg)

Note the six small springs which the top half of the actuator (and belleville washer) press upon.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_45_20072333.jpeg)

Remove the lower half of the actuator (with mono attached in this case)...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_45_200731154.jpeg)

Surprsing that it still (apparently) worked reasonably well, despite the mono (and generous amounts of rust).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_45_200741635.jpeg)

A quick check that nothing's gone astray: there should be 14 ball bearings and six springs...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_46_20075903.jpeg)

The double sprung dogs pivot on two S/S posts, fastened by nuts on the back of the side plate.
Remove, clean, grease and replace.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_46_200762012.jpeg)

Replace the cleaned and regreased bottom bearing race.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_47_200771165.jpeg)

Fitted:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_47_20078365.jpeg)

Replace the clean and greased springs...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_49_200821547.jpeg)

And refit the top half of the threaded drag actuator or sleeve.
Note the bellevilled washer already in place on the thread.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_07_08_17_4_21_56_208061002.jpeg)

Refit the bearing 'cage'.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_48_200811249.jpeg)

The 14 ball bearings drop right into place.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_38_200831422.jpeg)

Replace the cleaned and greased top race...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_38_20085679.jpeg)

And fasten in place with the circlip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_38_200862208.jpeg)

The side plate is now ready to refit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_39_200872001.jpeg)

Refitted and fastened down.
(Note I've left out the M3 from the reel seat as I intend to replace with an original.)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_39_20088682.jpeg)

Replace the drag limiter or 'strike set'.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_40_20089987.jpeg)

The double dogs slide onto the posts, while the springs hook onto wire loops running through the dogs and small posts pressed into the side plate.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_40_20090353.jpeg)

The drag lever slots easily into place...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_40_200912151.jpeg)

Followed by the main and ratchet gear assembly.
Use a small screwdriver to 'open' the dogs and allow the ratchet gear to slip into place.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_41_20092338.jpeg)

Now back to the gear housing...
Despite being several decades old, this model came replete with an AR bearing to complement the double dogs - nice...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_41_20093413.jpeg)

It's clearly a failure point, however, and was thoroughly toast.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_42_200942135.jpeg)

The bearing housing was 'corrosion-welded' into place.
This posed a real problem as it couldn't be pressed out from the front due to the small circumference of the outer hole.
It was soaked for several days in a variety of different solutions such as acetone/ATF, penetrating oil etc, but no joy...
I eventually decided to heat the gear housing as the alloy would expand at a faster rate than the steel housing and (hopefully) separate the two.
Beware of excessive heat or time, as the anodising will be compromised.
10 minutes at 150C (300F) was sufficient in this case.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_42_20095979.jpeg)

A bit of persuasion with a punch and hammer, and out it eventually slid...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_43_20096355.jpeg)

The cavity has been left somewhat pitted by the corrosion, but is in reasonably good shape considering.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_43_200971895.jpeg)

After due consideration, I elected not to replace the AR bearing as it's a weak point and extremely difficult to remove once corroded.
Instead, I turned/lathed a custom 13 x 19 x 15mm bushing from high-temp, high-quality industrial bushing nylon.
Here's the finished item, relative to the original:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_43_200982303.jpeg)

(Note the gear housing bearing has also been refitted.)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_43_200992276.jpeg)

Fitted:

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_44_201002274.jpeg)

Replace the gear housing...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_44_20101401.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_44_201021259.jpeg)

Despite trying every major fastenings supplier in Auckland, 7/64th hex screws to replace the snapped/damaged originals are unavailable.
So I customised the nearest available screw - a flathead.
Here is the standard flathead, the ground-down flathead and the original hex.
(Note that, having replaced four hex heads with flatheads, I now had a spare to replace the M3 reel seat screw with an original.)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_45_201032401.jpeg)

Fasten down the gear housing...

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_46_45_20104741.jpeg)

And... Job done.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/20/3590_04_08_17_6_40_32_200421538.jpeg)

Last one out, turn off the lights... ;) ;D

Righto, hope it was of some interest.
All the best, Justin

Nice one, I just love these tuts showing the internals of different reels  8)

Fantastic tutorial, amazing reel with lots of little springs!

Great Tutorial!!  Wish I had one like this to work on.  Haven't seen this type of reel before.  Am I correct in assuming that they're no parts available?  What about the drag washers, would they still operate smoothly?  Great job in overcoming the issues you encountered, such as the AR bearing replacement with a bushing after removing the "stuck" component from the side plate.  Good photography also.  You're almost professional grade!  Thanks.  Josarafa401

Job well done. Very nice!

I like the bushing; good thinking. Many of the Everols now use a bronze bushing, but maybe you just didn't have any lying around. That technical nylon ought to last about a hundred years or so. It'll do.

(y'know, I couldn't understand at first where all that rust in there was coming from. There isn't anything in there that really CAN rust; everything is made of bronze or stainless... Until you showed the needle bearing, or its skeletal remains. Good lord; it must've been in there for ten thousand years.)

QuoteBeneath this last drag plates is an array of 16 springs...
11 are 'hour-glass' in shape and the remaining five are conical...drag capacity can be increased/customised by adding springs....

Hmm, yes, but at risk of messing up the accuracy of the drag scale, which is kind of the idea of the whole thing. I don't know why the springs are different; perhaps someone has been in there before you. Incidentally, the drag lever goes a full 180 degrees, past the end of the scale, so the full max drag is probably more like 48 or 50 lb. That ought to be enough.

Josarafa401, Yes- parts for the reels, no matter how ancient, are available; all you have to do is ask. But Redsetta probably figured it was easier to just do it himself. As do I.

Doc.

.

nicely done!  it would be great to see a carbon fiber drag set for this reel!

Excellent tutorial Justin, as usual. Those reels are built like tanks, just like me, I was also made over there ;).
Thanks for showing it to us buddy.
Sal

Quote from: alantani on August 08, 2012, 07:44:51 PM
nicely done!  it would be great to see a carbon fiber drag set for this reel!

(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d165/DrRob101/DSC00299A.jpg)

Nice work Robert - they're very impressive and would be a great addition.
You make clear the difference between an expert and an enthusiast  ;) ;D
Cheers, Justin
PS I considered a bronze bushing (it would've been an ideal solution), but figured it was a little beyond my capability (and tools) ;)

 Yes, you're right- I made those myself.

However, all Everol drags are carbon fiber nowadays; they have been for many years. And new replacement drag washers fit old reels without any further ado.

There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with what you have there though, so why bother.

Good job; enjoy.
.

redsetta,what a magic tutorial.impossible for me but a good chance with your help right there.many thanks.

Cheers Wallace - appreciate the feedback.
Hope all's well with you and yours.

alls well justin,been squidding last couple of days
or should i say inking,said to my fishing buddy
"havent they got pretty eyes"
sure enough he had a close look
slurrrp,got him right in the face,
man i cracked up,had a white shirt on also.
next day squid in the bucket let fly and got me
up the back and legs.
"good boy"said my would be buddy.

Quote..."havent they got pretty eyes"

:D ;D
Gotta remember that one... ;)

A Masterful job-Thanks for sharing!

Justin:  As usual you are sure and meticulous.  That was a great job. 
Wallace, I wish I was there to see the ink blotch test.  Your buddy failed the test to your amusement.  Great story  ;D . 
Sal:  Everything made in Italy is terrific.  Dominick

Quote from: Mooki on August 08, 2012, 10:42:50 AM
Nice one, I just love these tuts showing the internals of different reels  8)

x2

stickied!  missed this one some how!  ;D

romantic just like me.
fantastic.
leonard

Hello Justin,

I noticed you said the drag can be changed by the addition or removal of springs. I've serviced the 14/0 before using your great tutorial but now I have an 9/0 Everol in the shop with a very light max drag.

Is using the springs the only way to increase the drag?

It took him 3 hours on a 75lb Tuna with this reel. With the lever at maximum I can pull line out by hand. That's usually 15lbs.

Keith

Keith,
You can add springs, and upgrade to the newer carbon fiber washers if it's an older reel with the coarse weave.  Not sure if I would want to modify the cam ramp on this reel though.  Also, any mods from stock will cause that drag curve scale to be in correct.

You may want to send Justin an email?

Keith, something is obviously quite wrong. It is hard to say exactly what, since we don't know what kind of life the reel has had until now, and not leastly if someone has been tinkering with it.

1) Check to see that the bridge screws are tight / bridge is tight against right side plate
2) there should be (somewhat dependent on age) a thin ring or washer between the left sideplate bearing and the spool bearing. Make sure that it is there.*
3) Are drag springs missing? I don't recall exactly how many there should be, but it should at least be an even distribution / even filling of the spring pockets in the spool
4) Where on the lever / drag scale does the drag begin to make contact? Should offer a clue.
5) Is there grease on the drag washers? Are all the drag washers there?

There is no cam ramp on these reels. The CF drag washers (all have coarse weave; the older washers have traditional clutch lining material) are of very similar thickness, so there shouldn't be such a huge difference as you are experiencing.


*There is one way to fine-tune the drag: by varying the thickness of this ring. However, this is a bit sensitive, so begin by ascertaining that all else seems well first.

.

I will post pictures as I get into it today. The reels is in excellent condition and I loosened all screws while he was here. Just making sure they weren't corroded in. All screws were greased.

So far so good. Everything looks to be right and in great condition.

One double sided friction plate with the old style material. All bearings feel good.

12 springs.

Couple more..

Looks to in pretty good condition, but given the symptoms expressed by the customer, I would consider...

1)Rehoning the metal washers to a perfectly flat/polished surface
2)Upgrading the double sided drag washer to CF
3)Maybe pick up a few new Springs

Did you test the drag and compare it against the scale before servicing?  If the  numbers were good, you could just clean everything up, relube, and reassemble.  Of course you want to clean/check all bearings, and don'the lose any of those loose balls.  I love the clicker design on these reels.. top notch IMHO.

Keep us posted. 

Yes, looks nice and in order so far. Great pics.
Question, though... in the pics it looks as if something has been rubbing on the inner, sheet metal part of the friction disc. Whassup with that..? How is the roller plate doing, is it flat? One could almost get the impression that it looks bent. It needs to be flat, to a diameter larger than the hole in the top disc in order to apply pressure evenly. Hard to see from a pic of course.

The spring count seems about right; not obviously wrong anyway, and not so much that the drag would be so lacking.

I gotta go for a few hours. Later.

.

Quote from: Robert Janssen on February 02, 2016, 06:36:31 PM
Yes, looks nice and in order so far. Great pics.
Question, though... in the pics it looks as if something has been rubbing on the inner, sheet metal part of the friction disc. Whassup with that..? How is the roller plate doing, is it flat? One could almost get the impression that it looks bent. It needs to be flat, to a diameter larger than the hole in the top disc in order to apply pressure evenly. Hard to see from a pic of course.

Keith,
I was wondering the same thing.  I'm thinking the drag disc has just worn down to the point where it doesn't quite clear the roller plate when the lever is pushed to sunset.  A new drag disc, or maybe shimming could help here. 

Mr. Jenson is correct in saying the springs are all there and correct, and better try to find out what other part is rubbing and why.

I hope the echo is not too bad in here?

John

I noticed that also but now it's working fine. With the drag lever at 12 o'clock I surely can't pull any drag by hand as I did before with it all the way over. I'll check it with a scale when my son gets home.

I think the drag lever was installed incorrectly. There is one shim under the drag lever so it pulls the drag assembly a little tighter.

I didn't take any pictures of the right side, bearing cage, or gearing. It's just like the 14/0. I did have to change the bearing under the main gear. The roller bearing pressed into the gear case cover was totally rusted. It was cleaned and packed with grease.

Thanks again for the great tutorial..!!

Also yes the last metal washer on top of the drags is slightly bent. It's very thin and I assume it gets pressed flat as drag is applied.

Quote from: handi2 on February 02, 2016, 08:19:03 PM
I noticed that also but now it's working fine. With the drag lever at 12 o'clock I surely can't pull any drag by hand as I did before with it all the way over. I'll check it with a scale when my son gets home.

I think the drag lever was installed incorrectly. There is one shim under the drag lever so it pulls the drag assembly a little tighter.

I didn't take any pictures of the right side, bearing cage, or gearing. It's just like the 14/0. I did have to change the bearing under the main gear. The roller bearing pressed into the gear case cover was totally rusted. It was cleaned and packed with grease.

Thanks again for the great tutorial..!!

Keith,
That would explain it.  That bearing was shot on the 2 reels I have serviced as well.  Guess the salt gets in there.  Pack the new one full of grease and that will solve that.

As always...

Great work!

 I also have a 12/0 that I have been tinkering with. I plan on replacing roller bearing on the sleeve with a bushing.  I only have 15 springs under the drag and they are all the same. The old drag washers have a slight bit of glazing on them. Would I be able to lightly sand that away without ruining them? I wouldn't be opposed to the new carbon fiber. But I have heard you have to shim them. Is this true?  And how exactly would you go about that? Are there after market washers out there. Or would I have to order them directly from everol? Thanks in advance.

Quote from: handi2 on February 02, 2016, 08:19:03 PM
I noticed that also but now it's working fine...

I think the drag lever was installed incorrectly. There is one shim under the drag lever so it pulls the drag assembly a little tighter...

The roller bearing pressed into the gear case cover was totally rusted...

Glad to hear that. Peculiar though. The reel looks to be in very good condition.
Regarding the thin washer under the drag lever, really it is just for the small drag lever friction springs to bear on; it doesn't actually have much to do with the drag itself. I'm not sure if the drag lever can be installed incorrectly... how?

Yes, those roller bearings had a tendency to rust after a number of years, so they were replaced quite some time ago with oilite bronze bushings. Or in the case of Redsettas reel, a technical plastic. (Curiously, I happen to own one of the first Everols ever made. It doesn't have roller bearings, but it is a two-speed)

Quote...the last metal washer on top of the drags is slightly bent. It's very thin and I assume it gets pressed flat as drag is applied....

Yes it does, that is why the roller plate is of such large diameter. Depends on how bent obviously-- there is a difference between bent and curved.

QuoteThe old drag washers have a slight bit of glazing on them. Would I be able to lightly sand that away without ruining them?

Sure.

Quote... I wouldn't be opposed to the new carbon fiber. But I have heard you have to shim them. Is this true?  And how exactly would you go about that?

The CF discs are made to be very similar in thickness to the old discs. A little fine tuning may be desired by a perfectionist, but I can't recall it being necessary in order to make it work. Shimming in these reels is not always easily accomplished. It takes a fair amount of expertise. Instead, I would have to recommend the usual approach of using the number of drag springs for this.

QuoteAre there after market washers out there. Or would I have to order them directly from everol?

No, no aftermarket washers. Get them from Everol or Everol USA or local distributor, depending on where you are.

Quote... I would consider... 1)Rehoning the metal washers to a perfectly flat/polished surface

Dude, these are 1 mm thick stainless steel discs cut from sheet, perfectly uniform in thickness and roughly 4" in diameter. Very difficult to hone, lap or grind. Better to buy new ones.

.

By 'honing'  I didn'the really mean honing with a lathe or proper machinery... just suggesting to use fine grit wet sand paper on a perfectly flat surface..such as glass..and lightly sanding in hourglass patterns to eliminate any felt roughness or ridges.  I haven'the done it to the everol plates but it helps with a quick/effective alternativery to replacement in Tiagras and Internationals. If it's really bad and requires serious attention... much simpluer.. though a bit costly...to replace them.

Just a suggestion, probably not needed if the drag feels smooth enough.

Oh, sure... of course. But still, these are often only 1 mm thick, (might be a bit more/less depending on reel / age) and guaranteed uniform in thickness to begin with. Since they are so thin and flexible, they'll flex wherever you put your fingers to press. So it will be very hard to maintain a uniform thickness everywhere, and since they are part of a sandwich meant to be very flat.... (on the other hand, we've already discussed the bit about surface area and friction and Coulumb's Law and so on... may be it doesn't really matter, all told???)

But yes, getting rid of any burrs, ridges and bad spots is always a good idea.

You may be right... they are more expensive than they seem IIRC, so a little elbow grease goes a long way.

.

Good work Keith - glad you got it sorted.
Knew you were in good hands once John and Doc weighed in ;)
Cheers, Justin

The owner of this would like to know the cost of the new drag plate with the carbon drag material.

Can someone instruct me on how to aquire one? I don't speak Italian.

Keith

Quote from: handi2 on February 11, 2016, 06:56:08 PM
The owner of this would like to know the cost of the new drag plate with the carbon drag material.

Can someone instruct me on how to aquire one? I don't speak Italian.

Keith

Today, most speak English over there. Give it a shot, if it doesn't work out I'll talk to them, but I would need their email.
I believe Daron has it.

Sal

The new drag plate is on its way by air mail from Italy for $95.00 and change. This is for the 9/0 reel.

Not too bad I think for a like new reel.

New 9/0 drag system received. I wasn't expecting the entire drag system. All springs included.

The drag was partially greased. The material is glued on and the metal plate is very rough ground on the outside.

Looking good there!

I really like dealing with Everol Italy.
Everol USA is really hurting their business.
Sure, they will sell you a reel with a big markup, but parts and service emails are ignored.
At least by me anyway. I informed them of this.
It's a shame, such a fine reel company is represented like this.
I will continue to buy their reels, just not from Everol USA.

I shouldn't have said the drag plate was rough ground. I should have said it was hand made..

Everol Italy doesn't mess around. They have been in business since 1958 for a reason.
You send them an email, The owner himself will respond.
Truly a Class Act. ;)

Quote from: handi2 on April 07, 2016, 11:57:54 PM
I shouldn't have said the drag plate was rough ground. I should have said it was hand made..

Yes, it is. The disc is ground that way to get a good bite for the adhesive.

.

This is an old thread but still amazing work from Justin and Keith.
Everol's have come a long way since then and I was intimidated at first looking at all those ball bearings and springs.
The newer models are a lot easier to service.
The work done by Justin on that old reel is amazing. :o
These two gents are truly masters at their craft. ;)

This drag is now so smooth. Everol included more springs that were in the reel originally so I installed them all that we're sent. At 10 lbs on the quadrant the drag is almost 20 lbs. The owner wanted to keep it this way.

He uses it for big Tuna trolling along with his Tiagra's and International reels.

Sounds like he is trolling in style. 8)
Tell him to snag some bait for me. ;)

Nice work Keith!

Quote from: Shark Hunter on April 13, 2016, 04:46:06 PM
Sounds like he is trolling in style. 8)
Tell him to snag some bait for me. ;)

I did Daron. I'm looking for Bonita and Blackfin. Also King Mackerel.

You Da man! ;D

I picked up another Everol 9/0 for me this time. I got for a steal by trading a new Talica 20 II for it. I got the Talica at 40% off thru Shimano.

This one is super nice and perfect inside. All the bearings were good even the roller bearing for the main shaft. Those are always rusted shut.

I ordered another 9/0 carbon drag kit from Everol and its on the way. The one I did earlier was super smooth.

The drag assembly on this one looks like new with no wear marks and plenty of material left.

Keith

Nice.

That ARB is pretty serious looking.  Italian reel... French bearings...makes sense to me.

Well done Keith - that's a beauty

The pictures are how it was when taking it apart. I didn't even try the drag but it looks fine and was lightly greased. I just have to put the new carbon drag in. It's amazing.

The spool bearings were already opened and lightly greased. It looks like Penn grease in the reel.

I'll probably never use it. I just think they are cool! Double alternating dogs set up like the Baja but massive with pulling springs. The main gear keeps the dogs in place.

Quote from: handi2 on May 15, 2016, 09:37:57 PM

  I just think they are cool!   

I couldn't agree more. Really neat, excellent looking reels.

What a great tutorial.  Thank you!  It gave me the courage to pick up a 9/0 at a pretty good price.  I was concerned it would have suffered the same fate as your 12/0. The owner said he'd only used it 3 or 4 times and never had it serviced or apart.  Fortunately there was no corrosion or rust inside, even the needle bearings looked new.  It had old brown grease in it in all the right areas I guess.  I cleaned all the old out and lubed everything. It is a serious piece of machinery. I would have really been intimidated about taking it apart without this post. 

I'm very pleased with it, and really didn't realize how large it was until it arrived.  I'd say it's just a bit narrower than my 80stw. 

The unfortunate part of getting it is now I think I need 3 others.

(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/KeithV35/IMG_6270.jpg) (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/KeithV35/media/IMG_6270.jpg.html)

(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/KeithV35/IMG_6266.jpg) (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/KeithV35/media/IMG_6266.jpg.html)

(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/KeithV35/IMG_6269.jpg) (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/KeithV35/media/IMG_6269.jpg.html)

(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/KeithV35/IMG_6272.jpg) (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/KeithV35/media/IMG_6272.jpg.html)

(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b46/KeithV35/IMG_6271.jpg) (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/KeithV35/media/IMG_6271.jpg.html)

Nice reel ksandin. I love me some Everol's. ;D

Im really impressed with how these Everol reels are put together. Wish they made smaller models that I could make use of....Jeff

They do Jeff.
The T Shot Series look really nice. They also make a smaller VJ model.

I'll take a look at them...Thanks ....Jeff