Reel Repair by Alan Tani

penn 209 rebuild - 12/27/09

this is another post that is long overdue.  here is our reel, a basic, stock penn 209.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_37_50_1.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_37_49_0.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_37_51_2.jpeg)

we're going to start with the left side plate.  all we have to do be back out each of the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 38), one at a time.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_37_52_3.jpeg)

add a bead of grease to each screw or screw hole, but do this one screw at a time.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_37_53_4.jpeg)

now back out each of the right side plate screws (key #32 and 38) and set them aside.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_38_51_0.jpeg)

at this point, the reels separates multiple pieces.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_38_52_1.jpeg)

lightly grease the clamp screws (key #34), then reassemble the rod clamp assembly.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_38_54_2.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_38_55_3.jpeg)

this reel is not going to win any distance casting competitions, so we'll lube the left side bushing (key #40) with corrosion x.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_38_56_4.jpeg)

install the spool (key #29L) back into the left side plate assembly (key #27) and set it aside.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_42_07_1.jpeg)

now for the right side plate.  remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_42_08_2.jpeg)

remove the handle screw (key #23).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_42_09_3.jpeg)

removed the handle assembly (key #24).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_42_10_4.jpeg)

remove the star drag (key #10).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_45_35_0.jpeg)

note the condition of the brass gear sleeve (key #98).  this one is fine.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_45_36_1.jpeg)

back out the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_45_37_2.jpeg)

the bridge assembly (key #3) will drop right out.  carefully set the side plate down and leave all the other parts right where they are.  do not flip the right side plate (key #1) over at this time.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_45_38_3.jpeg)

take a moment now to find the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) and place them in a safe place.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_45_38_4.jpeg)

now for the bridge assembly (key #3).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_46_41_0.jpeg)

here's what it looks like when it's in pieces.  we are going to change out the fiber washer (key #4) for a penn #6-113 drag washer that has been ground down to size.  we are also going to change out the brass gear sleeve (key #98) for an aftermarket stainless steel gear sleeve (mysticparts.com #98-155AT) that has been double drilled for the most precise fit.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_46_41_1.jpeg)

use a pin punch to remove the retaining pin from the stock gear sleeve (key #98).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_46_42_2.jpeg)

to install the new stainless steel gear sleeve (mysticparts.com #98-155AT), lube the inside with corrosion x, slide the gear sleeve over the post of the bridge plate, then select the retaining pin hole that gives you the least amount of play without binding.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_46_43_3.jpeg)

add a coat of cal's grease to the four carbon fiber drag washers (key #6).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_46_44_4.jpeg)

here is the final bridge assembly.  we have to leave out the tension washer (key #8) because the #6-113 drag washer replacing the fiber washer (key #4) under the main gear (key #5) is thicker.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_48_28_0.jpeg)

a full discussion of the rebuild procedure for these side plates is in the 500 jigmaster rebuild post http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20.0 .  please review this post if the side plate bridge screws have been removed.  for now, let's just say that your side plate is sitting quietly and in one piece, just like this.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_48_29_1.jpeg)

place your left index and middle fingers over the four bridge screws (key #16 and 17).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_48_30_2.jpeg)

hold the right side plate assembly (key #1) carefully between your left thumb and ring finger.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_48_31_3.jpeg)

now you can flip over the right side plate assembly without fear of the bridge screws falling out.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_48_31_4.jpeg)

lube with pinion gear (key #13) and right side bushing (key #26) with corrosion x.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_49_35_0.jpeg)

slide the bridge assembly (key #3) into place, the rotated it 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position as seen here.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_49_36_1.jpeg)

install the dog (key #15).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_49_37_2.jpeg)

rotate the bridge clockwise (key #3) until it covers half of the bridge screw (key #16).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_49_37_3.jpeg)

press down on the bridge plate (key #3) and install the dog spring (key #14) as shown.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_49_38_4.jpeg)

with your right index finger, press the dog spring (key #14) into position.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_59_48_0.jpeg)

rotate the bridge plate (key #3) clockwise to its final position.  your left ring and index fingers have been covering the bridge screws (key #16 and 17) this entire time.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_59_50_1.jpeg)

with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly (key #1) over while holding the bridge assembly (key #3) in place.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_59_50_2.jpeg)

cinch down the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_59_51_3.jpeg)

let's check your work so far.  turn the gear sleeve (key #98).  make sure it clicks in the forward direction and does not go backwards.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_6_59_52_4.jpeg)

work the eccentric lever (key #27) and make sure that the pinion gear (key #13) moves in and out.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_01_0.jpeg)

install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until the star clears the "shoulders" of the gear sleeve (key #98).  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_02_1.jpeg)

this is already way more work than the reel is worth, but we're going to install a kolekar handle grip.  to start, we are going to drill out the back of the spindle of the handle grip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_03_2.jpeg)

remove the handle arm and toss the old grip.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_04_3.jpeg)

drill out the hole just a little larger using a 3/16ths inch drill bit.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_04_4.jpeg)

bolt on a 2/0 kolekar grip.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_05_5.jpeg)

install the new handle assembly (key #24).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_06_6.jpeg)

install the handle screw (key #23), lining up the ridges to install the handle lock screw (key #23A).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_07_7.jpeg)

install the handle lock screw (key #23A).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_02_07_8.jpeg)

now to assemble the reel.  the spool (key #29L) is already in the left side plate (key #27) and frame assembly.  install  the right side plate (key #1) and screw in ONLY one of the right side plate screws.  we're going in just a few threads, and that's all.  it's staying loose.  watch, you'll see why in a minute.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_52_1.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_53_2.jpeg)

now wrap a rubber band around the reel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_56_3.jpeg)

install the worm (key #42) and line guide assembly (key #'s 46, 47 and 48) as a unit.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_57_4.jpeg)

note first the flat faces on the left side of the worm (key #42).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_57_5.jpeg)

the worm (key #42) will fit properly when the left side is keyed into the worm gear (key #45).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_58_6.jpeg)

now for the worm shield (key #50).  note that it is asymmetric and that there are tabs on the ends.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_03_59_7.jpeg)

install the shield with the "shallow side out."

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_04_00_8.jpeg)

match up the tabs of the worm shield (key #50) with the holes in the side rings (key #'s 2 and 28).  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_04_01_9.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_05_55_0.jpeg)

everything is all lined up, right?  give the spool a spin just to make sure.  if everything is lined up properly, the spool will spin easily.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_05_56_1.jpeg)

install the remaining right side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 38) and you're ready to adjust the reel.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_05_57_2.jpeg)

ok, your reel is all together and it looks great!  the handle turns easily, the star drag puts plenty of pressure on the drag stack and the drag is smooth.  now we need only adjust the spool tension and the leveler tension.  let's start by backing off the tension on the right side worm bearing (key #43) until it's nice and loose.  

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_05_57_3.jpeg)

now back the tension off of the left side spool bearing (key #40).

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_05_57_3.jpeg)

now spin the spool (key #29L) and it should spin freely.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_05_59_5.jpeg)

tighten down the left side spool bearing (key #40) until you have zero load and zero freeplay.  the spool should still spin freely.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_06_00_6.jpeg)

finally, tighten down the right side worm bearing (key #43) until it also has zero load and zero freeplay.

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_06_01_7.jpeg)

and you're done!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/1/1_23_12_09_7_06_02_9.jpeg)

Quote from: bigfostAnother great tutorial Alan.  I love the rubber band trick.  I never have thought of that, and trying to keep everything aligned while reassembling the level wind is the one step that always gives me trouble on my 209.

I just want to know where you get these nice clean reels to work on.  By the time I get around to cleaning mine, they're usually coated with green oxide and half full of sand.   :lol:

one of the reasons that i held off writing this one for so long is that i did not have a good way of getting the damned thing together.  i finally stumbled on to this during the summer. otherwise i needed three hands to get everything to fit.  the rubber band was basically the third hand. 

the big advantage of this reel is that you can do all of the upgrades and fish with this reel for years.  at some point, it actually WILL turn green and get packed with sand.  it's no problem.  hit hard with a water hose to blow out the sand, then soak it overnight in a bucket of vinegar and then hide it in the back of the wife's dishwasher and run a cycle or two.  it will come out sparkling.  your wife will get suspicious when you rush to unload the dishes (for the first time since you were dating), so don't get busted or she will make you pay dearly.  don't forget to spray it down with corrosion x after you sneak it out of the house!  alan

Where do I get the drag washers for this reel and pawl for this reel?
thanks

You can get everything for this reel at MysticParts.com.

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Quote from: jbkel on April 23, 2011, 10:44:59 AM
Where do I get the drag washers for this reel and pawl for this reel?
thanks

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-155SP.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-155SP.aspx)


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Would this bee the same Tutorial / instructions for a Penn Peer 309?  My brother let me use his this summer for Lake Trout trolling using leadcore line and I really liked it.  I picked one up on ebay fairly inexpensivly - Seems to be working good but It needs a good cleaning and a few parts.

I have never taken a reel apart before and this tutorial looks detailed enough for me to give it a try.

Darcy

The tutorial also applies to the 309 because it is the bigger brother of the 209.

Hello Darcy, Welcome aboard! Yes the 209 tutorial would be the same for the 309. These reels have different parts but the layout is the same. Alan's tutorials are nicely detailed.... go for it! You should have no problems working on it,  in case you do we're here to help. Good luck. Sal

Sorry Tile,we must have been typing at the same time. Sal

Have fun with it and welcome, Darcy.

Thank-you all for the words of encouragement.  I just finished taking the line off.  I suspect that this reel has not been used in the last SEVERAL years and is in need of a reel good cleaning. What should i be getting for oil and grease (i hope i did not open a can of worms with that question)

i have attached a few photos of my fantastic find
https://picasaweb.google.com/112410907419368613660/PennPeer309?authuser=0&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/112410907419368613660/PennPeer309?authuser=0&feat=directlink)

Watch out this gets addictive, I needed 1 more reel for halibut fishing.  Then I found this site, I ended up using the reels I was using for Halibut, getting one more of those, and using them for salmon after redoing the drags.  Now I have 5 113H's none of which are the way they came from the factory, ranging from swapping spools to narrow frame and spool kits.  The best advice I can give you is to use a white towel in a room with a floor where you can find the little parts like dog springs and bridge screws that get dropped. Also, I put a little blob of grease where the dog spring goes, it helps keep it from flying off into space......

Quote from: darcypa on September 09, 2011, 10:44:58 PM
Thank-you all for the words of encouragement.  I just finished taking the line off.  I suspect that this reel has not been used in the last SEVERAL years and is in need of a reel good cleaning. What should i be getting for oil and grease (i hope i did not open a can of worms with that question)

i have attached a few photos of my fantastic find
https://picasaweb.google.com/112410907419368613660/PennPeer309?authuser=0&feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/112410907419368613660/PennPeer309?authuser=0&feat=directlink)

If you are only going to use this reel to troll for lake trout with leadcore line, I would recommend only CorrosionX.  That is all you really need.

I would recommend that you upgrade the drag to greased HT-100 carbon fiber drag set 3+1 (3 HT-100s in the gear stack and 1 HT-100 under the gear).  The drag grease I would recommend is Cal's.  You can get it in a 1 oz container.  Some other drag grease that other members have used is Shimano or Daiwa drag grease, and Fastlane teflon bicycle grease.  I cannot attest to the other, only mention that others here have used them.

Have fun....AND WELCOME.

Thank-you Bryan,

I guess two more Items before I embark - Where do I get the HT-100 Kit and I really like the Handle that is shown in this tutorial - When can I get that as well.

Darcy

G'day from NZ Darcy and welcome.
Handle upgrades from Alan here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0 (http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0)
Regarding the HT-100s, you should have 'em in the drag stack already, so it's just a matter of replacing the fiber washer under the main gear with a #6-113 and greasing the lot as per Bryan's post.
Try Dawn at Smooth Drag here (contact details at the bottom of the page): http://alantani.com/index.php?action=post;topic=659.0;num_replies=13 (http://alantani.com/index.php?action=post;topic=659.0;num_replies=13).
Or from Scott's, here: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309.aspx)
If in need of anything further, here's the main parts link: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn309M.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn309M.aspx)
Good luck, Justin
PS Schematic here: https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/309m.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/309m.pdf)


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Quote from: darcypa on September 12, 2011, 05:18:30 PM

Where do I get the HT-100 Kit and I really like the Handle that is shown in this tutorial - When can I get that as well.

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309SP.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309SP.aspx)


Handles from Alan himself.

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

This was an EXCELLENT tutorial!!   I only wish I'd taken the time to find it yesterday instead of spending about 3 hours to figure it all out myself.   In particular, the part about installing the dog and spring and the rotating of the back plate in order to keep things in place!!   But, I did finally figure that one out too....got my reel back in good working order, and it's spooled up and ready to go on my next trip out.   One thing I also figured out that may be of help to some in the future is that the installation of the line guide shaft can be facilitated by installing the cover first WITHOUT the shaft in place, tightening down the reel completely, then removing the pivots on both sides.   In so doing, the shaft can them be pushed through on the non-drive side, then simply placed into proper position on the drive side....being careful to assure that the flats match up for proper drive rotation.   Then, just install the pivots and you're done!!   Saves time over the rubber-band method.....if you're so incline.   One thing for sure......I'm buying a few of Alan's Handles!!   My reel has a bent handle shaft....and those handles look to be the PERFECT solution!!    Many thanks from a newbie on the site!!    Kindly, Wharfcreek (WC).

Agree with you on the final assembly sequence. Keep the handle side plate screws  loose enough to fit the cover and then tighten the side plate screws. Remove the knurled screw and spring from the handle side ONLY and fit the line guide assembly. The rest is straightforward.

Two questions about the 209:
1. Are stainless steel geer sleeves available for the left handed reels? and
2. Will the 209 hold enough lead core to troll in 50 ft of water?

Thanks

Alan J

alan, things are crazy right now.  send me a pm after the new year and i will look for them.  i'm pretty sure i'm out.   :-\

Alan,

First, GREAT detailed step-by-step content. Perfect reading/project for when it's cold and the fishing is poor.

Some of your comments are HILARIOUS. The bits about the dishwasher and the value of the reel. I could buy new reels for what I am spending to rebuild 3 209s but what would I do with my spare time?

Question: The Penn 209 schematics appear to show the tension spring (#8) between the sleeve (#9) and the star drag (#10), so it will be on the "outside" the reel. However, you indicate that the tension spring should be between the sleeve and the drag washer set so it will "inside" the reel. What are your thoughts?

Thanks.

The tension spring should be right on top of the drag stack inside the reel.

There could also be one more under the star, right above the spacer. It helps increase the drag gradually, If you have the room.

yup, where ever you can find room.  it just has to provide a little tension when the star is backed off.  under pressure, it's totally flattened and the "springiness" is really not an issue.   ;D

How about my 109's.  Can I follow this tutorial to break them down too?  They look pretty similar except for the direct drag feature on the 109's.

Yes. They are similar. Should not have a problem.

2. Will the 209 hold enough lead core to troll in 50 ft of water?
Alan j - What weight lead core? 17, 27 and 45 all sink at the same rate, just have different dia. nylon braid sheath for strength. I get 50' at 2.0 mph troll with a full 100yd core dragging a spoon, 45 with a flasher/fly and 55 with a j plug. a penn 330 works for 27 lb with some power pro backer, rated by penn at 350yd 25lb, the 209 i think is rated for350yd 20lb, might work with 17lb lead. 180' of 45lb braid copper would put you at 50' might be a better option. the copper line is fairly soft and will work with level winds and doesn't need a roller rod like stainless. I would recommend the new nickel plated copper,it's more easy to use.

I was thinking of using 17 or 18 lb lead core. Most people I know, including myself, fish stainless steel wire. I have been reading about and talking to some who are getting good result with leadcore. I thought I would give it a try. I don't know anything about fishing braid copper. I'm fishing in saltwater.

Hi Alan, I hope that I doing this correctly; I love your site, very detailed and informative; I recently "inherited" an older Penn Peer 209 and your tutorial was very helpful in taking it apart.
Questions: It seems that the main gear is made of plastic material, and if this is correct, can it be replaced with a brass gear???
I fish on the Texas coastal bays - red fish, specks, flounders - and was wondering what fishing this reel would be good for and what type of rod it should be mounted on????
I'm not familiar with this reel and any help would be appreciated. Don't want to get rid of it because I've become a reel-aholic.
Thanks for any help

Quote from: cajun on February 16, 2012, 03:28:02 AM
..........
Questions: It seems that the main gear is made of plastic material, and if this is correct, can it be replaced with a brass gear???
....... Don't want to get rid of it because I've become a reel-aholic............
Thanks for any help

As far as being a reel-aholic, you're in good company here. ;D

The main gear (#5) is on the handle side, on the gear sleeve (#98), is part of the bridge assembly. Are you sure it's plastic? It should be bronze. It's shown here on the schematic, not to be confused with #45 or #64 which are the drive gears for the levelwind.
Rob
https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/209m.pdf (https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/209m.pdf)


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

there is a white nylon idler gear that is designed to break first.  people get their fingers caught.  you want that gear to break before you finger does. 

Hello,
Thanks for the response; yes, I'm talking about #5 on the schematic; it's very light weight and grey in color like a hard plastic; #13, pinion gear is very evident that it is brass or bronze; now, keep in mind that this reel is at least 30-40 years old. Could it be this was what was used "back in the day"?

Another question: I've always used Garcia Ambassadeurs fishing on the Texas coastal bays - red fish, specks, flounders - and was wondering what fishing this reel would be good for and what type of rod it should be mounted on?
I'm not familiar with this reel and don't want to get rid of it. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks a bunch.

The main gear should be bronze, but I suppose it could be something else. Using a sharp pick or something like it, try to scratch the gear to see if shiny metal shows through. That will be the best test. If you do replace the main gear, you should also replace the pinion at the same time. A new gear used against a worn gear will soon take the "imprint" of the worn gear.
I wish I could help you with the question of whether this reel is suitable for your targeted fish, but I'm on the wrong coast. :-\
If you can afford to, keep the reel. You'll find a use for it, even if it's pulling up baitfish. ;)

This gear may have been nickel plated giving it a grey appearance. It is certainlly not nylon. Akfish may be able to throw some light on this subject as he has a lot of experience with these reels. ;)

Hi.... I'm a long ways from being an "expert" on the older Penn lineup, but I do know that most of the earlier ones I've dealt with use a ferrous metal alloy for the main and the pinion both. Later versions used a cupric alloy for the main, and a ferrous pinion. Bronze = copper and tin. Brass = copper and zinc.

A very nice little reel and cheap to buy. I regularly use a 209MLH for beachcasting, all I've done is took the levelwind off and oiled the bushings with 20/50 engine oil, no need for mags. Easy to clean out the sand too.

It casts quite a distance, much to the surprise of those with me. OK its a slow retrieve but on a sandy bottom that's ok and you can enjoy the fight with the fish just that little bit longer.

Bill

I sure needed this tutorial! Started re-assembling my first 209 and that dog spring was about to kick my butt! But, then.......... I remembered the great tutorials here and woohoo, no more problems! Thanks Alan!! :)

glad it helped!

WOW, this is the best resource I ever could have hoped for. FANTASTIC!!

edit: nvmnd, got it

Anyone know if you can use the new graphite drag washers with the old brass drag metal washers? I have been fixing a lot of 209s recently and wondered what to do with the growing stack of brass drag washers on the bench.

Yes you can, if they aren't grooved to bad, but SS ones will be better.

I have a Chinese made 309M that I bought new recently for $75AUD. I noticed the eccentric jack and the pinion yoke are made from stainless steel, unlike the 209 in this great tutorial.
I like the 2.8:1 gear ratio and am amazed at the size of the pinion gear in my 309.

I am going to spool it with 30lb mono and fish it without the levelwind. Should be a very interesting contrast to my other reels for bottom fishing.
I think these reels have loads of nostalgia and character.
I was pleasantly surprised that the 309 and the 209 are still being made.  

Hello Basto, I thought the 309 was a little faster. Is your pinion brass or ss?
Sal

i noticed the same stainless steel parts in a chinese jigmaster.  they are coming out with better quality reels than the older american made ones. 

Quote from: Alto Mare on January 22, 2013, 01:58:16 AM
Hello Basto, I thought the 309 was a little faster. Is your pinion brass or ss?
Sal

Hi Sal
I did the acid test and put a mark on the spool and wound the handle and found the gear ratio is actually 2.8 :1
On the box it says 2.8:1.  The manual says 3:1
It also says that the pinion is SS, but it looks like brass. It`s BIG. and I`m happy about the 2.8 gear ratio.

I don`t expect it will pull much drag and I will get a SS sleeve for it, but I love low gear ratios combined with tall spools.

heat treated stainless steel has a funny "tanned" color to it.   :-\

Quote from: alantani on January 22, 2013, 06:22:44 AM
heat treated stainless steel has a funny "tanned" color to it.   :-\

Yes, I have noticed that on my Baja and Torque 200
It looks quite a bit lighter than they do (just like brass) I could email you a photo of it if you are interested.

I'm no economist,. but could it be, with the high price of copper and tin and zinc,and chrome,  that stainess steel is now cheaper than brass and bronze, which are then chromed.  I think it's a good thing, on reels that are never maintained by their owners...

The pitting of the chrome, leading to that green corrosion all goes away when ss is used. It may be a little duller finish, but it's clean, and undamaged.  

Quote from: basto on January 22, 2013, 06:14:07 AM
I don`t expect it will pull much drag and I will get a SS sleeve for it, but I love low gear ratios combined with tall spools.

Same here, too bad fishing reel manufacturers don't get it. It appears spools are shrinking more and more as we move along :-\. They need to wake up and start making them taller.
About the 309, any way you could post a shot of the insides here?
I'm also not a fan of levelwind, especially on saltwater. I've seen a few do the same as you're doing, here in the Northeast.
Thanks Basto.
Sal

Quote from: basto on January 22, 2013, 07:09:36 AM

Quote from: alantani on January 22, 2013, 06:22:44 AM
heat treated stainless steel has a funny "tanned" color to it.   :-\

Yes, I have noticed that on my Baja and Torque 200
It looks quite a bit lighter than they do (just like brass) I could email you a photo of it if you are interested.

from basto!

(http://alantani.com/gallery/8/1_22_01_13_10_28_55_8076417.jpeg)

(http://alantani.com/gallery/8/1_22_01_13_10_28_58_807885.jpeg)

I`m now wondering if the frame rings are also stainless. My magnet will stick to them, but won`t stick to the handle.
The handle is also a lot shinyer.

That looks good Basto, thanks for the picture and you as well Alan.
Lots of goodies for the money. I could be wrong, but the rings do look like ss to me.
Is the main a 5-500? The teeth on that pinion look deep :-\
My Tank could use that ss jack.
Sal

I just noticed that deep scratch on the jack ::), take your time when assembling, we don't do that here ;D ;D

Another nice touch is the ring around the bottom of the pinion. That will keep it from deforming over time, and not catching the spool anymore.

Sal, To me it looks like that scratch is a bristle from a brush or a hair. It looks like it runs off the Jack in both pics. I never get anything like dog hair in my reels.  ;) Bob

Right on Bob! That scratch on the jack is a hair from my West Highland White terrier, Millie.

They get their nose in everything, don't they. I have a sheltie, hair gets everywhere.

Hi Sal
my local shop has a chinese 114...I`m wondering what is inside that now.

Yea, me too. Ask the owner if you can crack it open and do a tutorial at his shop. Tell him the picture would be posted on one of the best fishing reel repair site around ;)....you never know :-\

I`ll have to get to know him a bit better first......actually, I`m trying very hard to ignore it

I was diving a wreck off Pensacola this past week and found a Penn Peer 309 rig at 90'.  Looked like it had been down there maybe two days-- very little corrosion.  I soaked it in freshwater overnight and everything seems smooth.  I wanted some advice on cleaning this reel.  I thought maybe some CLR and scotchbrite, or maybe even the vinegar and dishwasher trick mentioned earlier in the thread. After cleaning I thought I'd break it down and see how the guts look. What should I use to clean, lube, and protect the gears and drag?

If it's not corroded you can take your pick of cleaning methods. Alan's dishwasher trick requires about 100 cycles to make it clean. ;D ::)  Simple Green, CLR, brake / carburetor cleaner (on the metal only), WD-40 will all work. I like using Gel Gloss or auto polish on the sideplates, Brasso or chrome polish on the brass / chrome parts, and brake cleaner on the innards. Any method requires some elbow grease. I don't like using lubes on "plastic" sideplates.

For lubing, my standard is Cal's on the drag washers, ReelX on bearings, bushings and the gear sleeve post, and a VERY light coat (just enough to leave a fingerprint on) of Yamaha Marine Grease on all other internal metal parts.

Everyone has their favorite methods; this is what I do.

Welcome, cottonmouth. I live in P-cola. PM me your contact info and I'll take a look at it for you. Bob

Thanks for the replies.  This is a great site.  Think I'll just clean it up with WD40.

I was only in Pensacola for the weekend.  I live in New Orleans.

wd40 is good to get rid of water.. not for any sort of lube.. in face it will try out your plastics so be very careful with it.. Check out PB blaster.. good for cleaning and lube..

Guys,

Great site!  I just found it a week ago by necessity when I needed to take my Senator 9/0 apart and get it back together.  I ordered ht-100 drag washers for my 209's, 309, and jigmasters 500's.  I figured I would work on these before hitting my other Senators.  I got the bug bad here,  I even bought a 309 off  EBay for $5 for a restore project.  Anyway, I realize the more I read the fiber washer under the main gear needs to be replaced also.   Just want to confirm this is the right part for the 209 and 309.
https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309.aspx (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309.aspx)

I believe based on what I read on this post it is also the part I need for the jigmasters.  
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=21.0

Is that right?

I think the stainless steel gear sleeves are next on my list.

Thanks

Tate

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

I normally order an extra washer the same size as used in the reel for under the gear. For the 209 it would be a 6-155 or a 6-309 for a 309. HTH Bob

Thanks Cone!   I have it figured out now.  Appreciate the feedback.  I have learned quite a bit from you guys.  I'm working on 10 reels now.   I was surprised to see some of my reels already have ht-100 washers.  They still just have the regular fiber washer under the main gear though.  My 9/0 is old with the outside felt washer  that i am getting rid of per board advice.

"in face it will try out your plastics so be very careful with it."

It does what to plastics? I assume you mean dry? I use It for cleaning out my Senators, I wipe off most of the excess, but what's wrong w. WD-40?

WD-40 wil eat away plastic, and it turns to varnish. It works for cleaning parts. By themselves, get a gallon jug and pour a little in a metal bowl

Good grief, that sucks. Thanks for letting me know. :-\

ok, so i have a couple of 209's and 109's i recently purchased, great deal about 50 bucks a piece including rod. one of which is a custom rod and the other a st. croix viking rod, which from the research i did, it is a very good quality rod. anyway, one of the reels' worm would not move at all so i followed your instructions and i took it apart (somewhat since i don't have all the proper tools to follow all your steps) and i figured out that one of the parts was broken inclduing the pinion gear and the worm gear. It seems that every time i spin the handle it doesn't grab the gear correctly, i think. First thing i'm going to do is get the proper tools to be able to take everything apart and i will post pictures but, based on what i've explained so far, does my assessment sound right?

Welcome newbee! The plastic lawyer gear is probably missing a tooth or two. They are designed to strip if someone gets a finger in there.  ??? Let us know if we can help.  Bob

umm, what happens if the side plate cracks on the 209? does that mean i have to replace it? you can't really see it once the screws are tightened but i made the "newbee" mistake of over tightening.  >:( Rick

right or left?  we can all check to see if there is an extra floating around somewhere.

right plate, where the handle is. I think it wasn't lined up all the way when i tried to tighten the screws back in so i heard a cracking noise. thanks guys.

Hi newbee --

Yes, you are right about over-tightening the screws when assembling.  On the Penn 9 series reels I generally keep all screws 1/2 to 1 turn back from tight when assembling -- since everything needs to mesh together in 1 sequence at the end.  This includes the worm spiral gear, worm gear shield with 4 holes to attach to, upper slotted line guide post, leave the bottom front post off until the pawl and pawl cap are installed last.  

When everything is aligned and rotating smoothly, and the bottom front post is installed -- I just take both sides of the reel in each hand, and wiggle it back and forth -- this helps to align all of the various moving parts.

Lastly, I hand tighten the screws just snug -- not over tight -- no need -- snug is perfect.

You probably have this all figured out already -- but for others who may not know...

Do you need the white plastic idler gear?  If it has any teeth missing, you do need to replace it.  It is designed to be the cheap fail point or weak link in the drive/LW system.

And is the right handle side-plate you need -- black, maroon, red, or brown?  Could be green -- but those are rare.

Let us know if we can help -- Thanks...

Best,

Fred

Thanks Fred. Yes i do need the white gear since it is missing teeth, I believe that's the problem. The plate is red but my question is, is it absolutely necessary to replace it?

Thanks,
Rick

Quote from: newbee on January 13, 2015, 03:43:16 PM....is it absolutely necessary to replace it?

Yes it is.

actually, now that i'm looking at it a little better, the side plate might be maroon. Does anybody know where i can get the pin punch from and the wrench to take the handle off of the side plate? does home depot have these? thanks again.

sorry for all the questions, as you can tell i'm really new at this.

also, as i mentioned before, i happened to purchase a total of 2 109's, 3 209's and 2 brand new 309's, and a 155 on a 12' ugly stick.
one of the 209 i purchased (used in a garage sale) would not cast or maybe i don't know how to cast it. my first cast (in my driveway) turned into a horrible birds nest, so when i finally cleaned up my mess, i tried casting again and it wouldn't go anywhere. does anybody have a tutorial anybody has used in the past to learn how to cast these? or am i just not good at this? or is something wrong with the reel?

thanks,

Rick

Hi Rick --

The Penn "9"s are not really for casting -- and will not do that very well.  They are for trolling with lead-core or mono, boat or pier fishing, etc.

Pictured are the 2 colored side-plates.  Take your pick.

64-209 idler gear also.

I will send you a Penn wrench that will fit each of your reels.

You will need a 1/16" pin punch to remove the gear sleeve for servicing.  I get mine from Sears (Craftsman) -- since every time I bend or break one -- they just hand me another brand new one over the counter.  Lifetime Guarantee.

If the crack is not too bad or in a critical area -- you may get by -- but I would not recommend that.  They are not glueable or repairable.

Let me know if you need these, and PM me your mailing information, name, phone number, and direct email.

I will send you what you need -- you can just reimburse the postage after you receive the parts.

Best,

Fred

(http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/foakes1/2E00793D-309E-4423-A195-BA176F1B72EF_zpsmtfkksxe.jpg) (http://s748.photobucket.com/user/foakes1/media/2E00793D-309E-4423-A195-BA176F1B72EF_zpsmtfkksxe.jpg.html)

Thanks a lot Fred. You have no idea how glad I am to have found this site. I would probably have given up on trying to figure out these reels if it wasn't for the quick responses from everyone. That's what i will try next, pier fishing. Although i love my Lews and Shimano curado baitcasting reels, i would love to get to know these reels a little better and fish with them as often as i fish with baitcasters.

The tutorials on here are amazing, not to mention how active everyone is on here and the quick responses.

thanks,

Rick

Quote from: foakes on January 13, 2015, 04:34:21 PM


You will need a 1/16" pin punch to remove the gear sleeve for servicing.  I get mine from Sears (Craftsman) -- since every time I bend or break one -- they just hand me another brand new one over the counter.  Lifetime Guarantee.

Fred!

That's why you are allowed to work on reels, YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!! ;D

This last summer I removed all the interior doors in our home to have the floors resanded, stained and sealed, and getting the pins out of the hinges, I used (bent) 2 DASCO 3/16" pin punches (thanks Home Depot)!  The hinges came with an adhesive to prevent and door hinges from squeaking or moving if the door was not hung correctly.  So, after removing all the doors pins, I cleaned up each hinge, with adhesive remover and used, what else, Yamaha Blue Marine grease to lube each set, and now they work perfectly.

Knowing the Sears Craftsmen tool warrantee, It would have saved me $$, time and frustration.

Thanks for the tip!  You staying warm up there on your side of the mountain???

Wayne

Hey, Wayne --

Now...if that Tsunami ever hits your house -- your door hinges will be operating smoothly -- since the Yamaha Marine Grade grease resists saltwater very well.

Way too warm up here, Wayne.  Walked 3 miles with Sue this morning at 05:00 -- 35 degrees!  Should be in the mid teens this time of year.  Sun is bright -- blue skies -- no breeze -- no snow -- warmed up to 41 in the shade.

I could have kicked my uncle -- he had an old Craftsman 3/8" ratchet driver from the mid 40s.  Looked really antique and neat.  After 70+ years, the ratchet started to slip a little under a load.  So he takes it down to Sears, and is so happy since they gave him a brand new ratchet.  I guarantee, that old antique ratchet they took back did not go in the scrap bin...

Best,

Fred

Fred

It's warmer by you then here. At 11PM by J.F.K. Airport it's 17* going down to 15* or less where I live. It might hit 8* tonight.

Mike

It got down to 3 degrees last week. lots of single digit temps. Its in the 20's now and its a relief compared to last week. Come on May! ;D

We are suffering through a cold spell here in HI as well.  Several records were broke last week.  Down to the mid to upper 50s at night.  This combined with the high levels of VOG from the active volcano are makimg folks sick.  Fish are still biting though.

The only 2 things that the Law says we can catch this time of year is Ling[Red Hake] & Icebergs.

Mike

Yesterday I went through my son's 9M.  It is different from the 209 in some details, so I hope these pictures and notes are helpful.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/eicgql2f7o7sil8/IMG_20150220_132358633_zpsjgemkobj.jpg?dl=1)

When I picked the reel up to work on, it felt dry, which I expected.  But then I felt something rattling around in the mechanism.  When I pulled the spool out of the frame, this fellow dropped onto the bench:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/zf73x22o40ve8o0/IMG_20150220_133944933_zpserqmotih.jpg?dl=1)

That turns out to be the click spring screw, absent here.  Note the plastic click spring.Scott's shows that part discontinued, with a metal one available.  Next time I put together a Scott's order, that will be in it.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/y47mfoip9lnrdsj/IMG_20150220_134144466_zpsop8l7g4w.jpg?dl=1)

Click spring screw back in place.  The idler gear looks fine.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/mzpwjd5cza8hs72/IMG_20150220_140343366_HDR_zps3izjdtkn.jpg?dl=1)

The chrome ring needs to come off to allow the stack to be removed as a unit.  It pried off easily using a narrow screwdriver at the edge of the head plate.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/9yancxee7k6ltcz/IMG_20150220_142819263_zpsfdwnf561.jpg?dl=1)

The dog spring is Surfmaster style rather than like the 209.  Except the Surfmaster doesn't have the nice metal fulcrum post for the spring.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/jxw4t0dgfnzkjbi/IMG_20150220_152547210_zpsefzsm5ol.jpg?dl=1)

The worm bushings are not really adjustable.  They just screw down into the plates, leaving about 3 mm of play in the worm.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/e22134e5dpssbln/IMG_20150220_140734053_zpswmuoeauc.jpg?dl=1)

Mike

That appears to be the same dog and dog spring as the 9 ? I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

That is a pretty reel. I'll bet somebody has gone through it and those changes were not from Penn.  Have you looked at the drag washer stack to see if it's been upgraded ?

Mic

Quote from: Mic on February 23, 2015, 03:10:45 PM
That appears to be the same dog and dog spring as the 9 ? I could be wrong, but I don't think so.

That is a pretty reel. I'll bet somebody has gone through it and those changes were not from Penn.  Have you looked at the drag washer stack to see if it's been upgraded ?

Mic

Scott's says the dog and spring for the 9 and 9M are the same.  It is a nice little reel; thanks.  It has been my son's since new, and if it was ever upgraded, it would have been in the tackle shop when I bought it, which seems doubtful.  The drag stack is HT-100s, now greased with Cal's.  The washers are tiny, but the reel makes a fair amount of drag.

Mike

The peerless 9 and the more recent 9m reel are one in the same. Penn just dropped the peerless portion of the name. same as with the dropping peer from the 209 and the 309. All the parts are still the same including the aluminum spools the new ones come with

Hi guys,

First post on here, I found the forum when googling for Penn 309 rebuilds and while this is for a 209, it's almost identical to the 309.  My father gave me his old Penn Peer 309, which is probably about 40 years old and was used trolling for lake trout.  The reel was filthy and needed a good cleaning and chrome polish.  The spool was very stiff on retrieve with quite a bit of unwanted friction so I disassembled the entire reel, cleaned every part and have re-greased and re-assembled everying.  I've only lightly oiled the reel and have tentavily put it back together and everything works great except for one fairly significant issue.  If I tighten a couple of key spots down, the reel starts to seize up.  I've put together a quick video showing exactly what's happening at:

https://youtu.be/HAAUj6ip7Ng

Any suggestions on what to do what be awesome, or is this reel simply toast?  Was hoping to use it as a second reel for trolling along side my Penn Squall 20.

Thanks!
Dan

And just to update the above, I went and re-added the rod mounting bracket that was not in the video and it looks like the added support corrected some of the issue.  So now the connecting rod screws can be tightened all the way without impacting the friction on the level.  So now the only issue is that when I tighten down the oil bolt as in the video, it seizes up the spool.

Thanks,
Dan

Loosen the left bearing adjustment screw in the center of the left plate. After you tighten everything up then you make the adjustment to that bearing. The spool should have .005 to .010 side to side play when adjusted properly. There is not supposed to be any side pressure on the spool. It is to float freely at all times.

Quote from: RowdyW on September 28, 2015, 06:09:27 PM
Loosen the left bearing adjustment screw in the center of the left plate. After you tighten everything up then you make the adjustment to that bearing. The spool should have .005 to .010 side to side play when adjusted properly. There is not supposed to be any side pressure on the spool. It is to float freely at all times.

Oh man, now that you point out the left side adjustment, it's so obvious *smacks head*  Thank you so much, problem solved.  Will have to open it all up again for proper lubrication but this is working like new now.  Thanks again!

Your welcomed Dan, now lube it up ( Cal's for drags & marine grease) & make sure you have CF drags in it. Then let us know how it fishes, (send photos everybody loves photos).   Rudy

Quote from: RowdyW on September 28, 2015, 07:39:20 PM
Your welcomed Dan, now lube it up ( Cal's for drags & marine grease) & make sure you have CF drags in it. Then let us know how it fishes, (send photos everybody loves photos).   Rudy

I'm using the stock drag plates in there, are people swapping them out for carbon fiber versions?  I did read through the original post of this thread and I saw he was replacing the drag rig, I'll have to look up in depth what was done and how/where to order those CF drags.  Thanks again for helping me out, first time taking apart a trolling reel, I've only ever used spinning reels and aside from my main reel, will toss out dead ones rather than recover them.  But this Penn has some sentimental value to it, plus I love the look of this reel and there's absolutely nothing wrong with it aside from needing a major cleaning lol!

Dan

    The original drags are a hard fiber material & are not as smooth or have the full drag capability of carbon fiber drags. You can get the parts you need at Scott's Bait & Tackle. Check with Mo & she will get what you need & ship it to you.

Quote from: RowdyW on September 28, 2015, 08:55:22 PM
    The original drags are a hard fiber material & are not as smooth or have the full drag capability of carbon fiber drags. You can get the parts you need at Scott's Bait & Tackle. Check with Mo & she will get what you need & ship it to you.

Perfect, thanks Rowdy!  Just got off the phone with Mo and have the drags and a couple other goodies ordered and on the way!

Dan

Just got through repairing a 209 -- my first Penn internals take apart.  Even without touching the drag, it was a bear, but worth mulling through.  Somehow my visual dyslexia made me do a m few things backwards, before I could get them right:

• The clutch and spring: Messed with getting the spring in the right place against the plate.  Bent the spring.  Found a PennParts video that helped a lot and finally got it.
• The yoke and eccentric: put both on the wrong way a few times, including having the yoke U turned up.   Man-o-man!
• The (dirty) Dog and spring: Somehow was putting the dog under the main gear instead of on top of it (dyslexic) and chased the spring at least ten times, but it did not get away, although it did get a bit mangled. 
• Assembling the plates and posts: Never got far enough in Alan's tutorial to see the rubber band trick for holding everything together.  Assembled the reel several times without the level wind shield - UGH!  Swore I would never work on another level wind, but after seeing the rubber band I will give another try.  I had worked on many Squidders and Jigmasters, and am now deeply appreciative of the take-apart architecture that allows the right side plate tyo be left out of the frame assemble!

Finally getting everything back, with he dog clicking happily, I found the bait clicker tongue to be busted - tip is mangled.  At least I won't have to touch the gearing again. Don't judge me for no rebuilding the drag stack -- believe me, what I did was enough schooling for one week!  But I have some Squidder and Jigmaster carbon drag washers to install, and enough confidence now that I can handle eccentrics, yokes, and dogs on some other reels!  Whew!

P.S. A little HTML coding to format a post is a breeze!   

Good job Decker! Heck...you made it through the tough part...changing drag washers is a cinch compared to scrunching that yoke, springs, and eccentric back in place. The rubber band trick really will make life easier. Or you can try my way...before I joined this site I worked up a way to hold those pieces in place...a simple strip of tape across the top post and down the levelwind to the bottom front post. Then one more strip across the worm shield. It holds everything in place really well.

Quote from: Decker on August 22, 2016, 06:53:10 PM

P.S. A little HTML coding to format a post is a breeze!   

great!  do you think you could fix the email notification?

Just did my first 209 today. Alan should get a humanitarian award for the rubber band idea. I would have never figured that out otherwise. Many thanks!

Quote from: alantani on August 22, 2016, 10:39:06 PM

Quote from: Decker on August 22, 2016, 06:53:10 PM

P.S. A little HTML coding to format a post is a breeze!   

great!  do you think you could fix the email notification?

Alan, I'd be happy to give it a shot. Do you have any error message to start with? 

Quote from: mo65 on August 22, 2016, 10:07:35 PM
Good job Decker! Heck...you made it through the tough part...changing drag washers is a cinch compared to scrunching that yoke, springs, and eccentric back in place. The rubber band trick really will make life easier. Or you can try my way...before I joined this site I worked up a way to hold those pieces in place...a simple strip of tape across the top post and down the levelwind to the bottom front post. Then one more strip across the worm shield. It holds everything in place really well.

Thanks for the encouragement, Mo!  Tape to hold the worm shield in place sounds good too. 

before I joined this site! I goggled peen peer 209 and I found this ! thanks to this my 209 is sweet! thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!

penn  109,  9  and  209  worm sheild is no big problem,  the way i do it is, i install the 3 long plate screws on the left sideplate  ( clicker side ) in just a little, then as i'm holding it ,i spread the reel a little and slip the sheild into place, then i slightly tighten the plate screws ,  don't tighten the plate screws all the way as it gives you slack to install the reel stand screws. leaving the handle side reel stand screws loose helps aligning the reel stand screws on the left sideplate.  another trick i use is  when i assemble the levelwinds,  the last thing i do is install the left sideplate, the reel stand, cross bars and spool are in place,   i stick a leg of a compass or small awl thru the left sideplate and chrome ring,    as i slide the plate on i stick the point of the compass into the top slotted post, thus aligning everything , then loosley catch the screws.  work for me.  happy reeling.    harryk

Those worm shields with the four prongs pre-date Penn by about twenty years.  I hate all of them.
-steve

I am not sure what I am doing incorrectly.  I have 4 old Penn 209 reels we use for walleye fishing that we haven't used in several years.  My sons wanted to try trolling (not having any luck otherwise) so I got them out and we went.  New braided line put on at the tackle store.  One of the reels was working fine until one of the boys told me know matter how hard he was reeling it was not bringing in line.  This was after a few hours of it working fine.  Now it will not reel at all, the handle won't move.  I followed the directions here but after removing the handle and all nothing has changed when I get to the test stage of the work.  The drag doesn't seem to be working either. Any suggestion on what could be wrong?  By the way, both boys caught there first walleyes and even a steelhead. One other reel is not working but two seem to be doing okay.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jack

the spool may have split under the pressure of the braid.  some of these chrome spools are "three piece," and can split and expand, locking up the reel.  a solid aluminum spool fixes that problem.  someone here should have them for a fair price if you ask on the "wanted" section. 

it's just as common loading these old spools with mono.   :-\

Thanks for the quick reply. I will see if I can locate an aluminum spool. Just out of curiosity, is there a way I can look at the spool to see the damage?  I intend to work on all of them during the winter and want to check everything while they are apart.

Also, the spool was not in when I noticed the gear sleeve would not turn at all. I was at this stage of the tutorial.

"let's check your work so far.  turn the gear sleeve (key #98).  make sure it clicks in the forward direction and does not go backwards"

Quote from: streetglider on September 19, 2017, 12:24:24 PM
Also, the spool was not in when I noticed the gear sleeve would not turn at all. I was at this stage of the tutorial.

"let's check your work so far.  turn the gear sleeve (key #98).  make sure it clicks in the forward direction and does not go backwards"

It is always a good proactive idea to change out the old 3 piece spool to a new aluminum 1 piece.

And that will improve the capability of the reel going forward.

However, if the sleeve is binding without the spool attached -- there is an issue with either a damaged part -- or just an assembly snafu out of order problem.

Could be as easy as the metal eared drag washers not seating in the gear grooves, an extra spring washer binding on the inside of the plate, the dog or dog spring out of place, corrosion in the sleeve/bridge post area, improperly placed pinion gear (upside down), jack on the wrong side of the yoke, etc.

I will post a schematic in a minute that may help you.

Best.

Fred

Quote from: streetglider on September 19, 2017, 12:24:24 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. I will see if I can locate an aluminum spool. Just out of curiosity, is there a way I can look at the spool to see the damage?  I intend to work on all of them during the winter and want to check everything while they are apart.

Also, the spool was not in when I noticed the gear sleeve would not turn at all. I was at this stage of the tutorial.

"let's check your work so far.  turn the gear sleeve (key #98).  make sure it clicks in the forward direction and does not go backwards"

it's hard to tell by just looking at the spool.  it spreads out and is just wide enough to bind.  as for the gear sleeve, it usually binds when i leave an extra washer in the stack!   ;D

Thanks for the advice. I am going to take it apart tonight again and see if there is something I have done incorrectly. I don't think it's an extra washer as I only put in what I took out. I will purchase new sprockets and drag washers for my rebuilds after we take the boat out.

If the spool is not in the reel the pinion gear will rattle around and catch on the edge of the yoke so the main gear and sleeve cannot more.

Did you, by chance, have the star bottomed out against the side plate when it stopped working in the field.  It could have been something as simple as an old leather drag washer falling apart.

If that was old fashioned nylon braid (squidding line) it could have warped the spool, especially if it was put on by machine.  If it was modern spectra braid that is much less likely to have happened.  

I would take the old chrome/brass spool over an aluminum spool any day, but that's just me.

-steve

Quote from: oc1 on September 19, 2017, 07:36:50 PM
I would take the old chrome/brass spool over an aluminum spool any day, but that's just me.
-steve

Chromed brass over aluminum?  Please elaborate. 

Did they make a chromed brass spool that small? Ive never seen one.

Some 9-109-146 and 100 that I own have  chromed brass spools.

Sal

Still working on the reel but while I was , I came up with a question.  Would it be worthwhile to try and have these reels serviced by someone?  The cost of doing so may be very close to what I can buy new ones for.  I hate replacing something if it can be used again but it may just make more sense. My research seems to be that it would cost close to $50.00 to service them.  I may be able to figure out how to do it on my own but since I am new to this, it may be some real trial and error. 

If you wanted to send them to me or someone else, that would be fine, if you are feeling a little uncomfortable.

(4) 209's would be $72 + parts + shipping -- for me.

Only parts I would foresee, would be new greased CFs -- Unless something really weird, I have enough parts in the bins to make them as new.

Might need a pawl or two, line guide, etc.

I would inspect the spools -- I would not replace them unless they needed replacement (doubtful) -- or if that is what you want.

PM me, if this is something you want to do.


So, for about $100 -- they would all ge ready to go.

If you bought a new Chinese 209 -- wholesale on those is about $60.

Best,

Fred

Quote from: streetglider on September 20, 2017, 12:35:49 AM
Still working on the reel but while I was , I came up with a question.  Would it be worthwhile to try and have these reels serviced by someone?  The cost of doing so may be very close to what I can buy new ones for.  I hate replacing something if it can be used again but it may just make more sense. My research seems to be that it would cost close to $50.00 to service them.  I may be able to figure out how to do it on my own but since I am new to this, it may be some real trial and error. 

Try one on your own first, you shouldn't give up that easy. If you're really not able to put it back, there are a bunch of guys that could service them for you. Fred gave you a great price for all 4, but I still say try first.

Sal

Jack, what Fred is offering is a great deal....however I would encourage you to take one of the working reels apart and do a service yourself...there are plenty of people here that can walk you through the service....once you are comfortable with that, then tackle a reel that is giving you problems....just do one at a time, starting with a working reel.  The 209 seems daunting at first, but if you can do that one, 95% of the Penn line up will be a piece of cake.  mysticparts.com is your go to for parts.  Here is a link to the tutorial by the Boss himself
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=659.0

I find it helpful to have a camera handy and take lots of photos during the tear down to document part placement during reassembly.    Bill

P.S. Not sure where you are located but there may be a member close by that could help

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Where's that description of how to hold the four bridge screws and the dog spring in place while rotating the bridge around until the pinion clicks into place.  That part takes hours to figure out on your own the first time.

When the 209 came out in the early 1950's it had the chrome plated brass spool.  The 109 had an even smaller chrome/brass spool beginning the early 1940's.  In the 50's you could buy #9, 109, 209 and later 309 with either chrome/brass or plastic spool.  I don't know when the aluminum spools showed up.  I had moved on by then.  There were frequent problems with plastic spools when monofilament became popular.  Monofilament stretches a lot but the individual strands do not compress so the pressure builds and builds as stretched line is packed under load.  The old braided nylon (squidding line) also stretches a lot but it did not blow up spools nearly as often as monofilament and the fact that the line can compress a little may have something to do with it.  The chrome/brass spools were thought to be nearly bullet proof compared to the plastic alternative.  Plastic was lighter and may have casted a little better.  But, none of these (109, #9, 209 or 309) cast very well because of all the moving parts and friction from the synchronized levelwind.

I'm swearing off all aluminum because it does not hold up.  When was the last time you saw a brass spool with little chips corroded off the edge of the flange?  You see it with aluminum spools all the time.  The old non-anodized aluminum is the worse but it happens with modern anodized aluminum reels as well.  If the anodizing is scratched or worn the aluminum will start to corrode below.  You cannot replace the anodizing so it is difficult to stop once it starts.  My dearly beloved Curado 70XG is dying of spool flange corrosion.

-steve

Quote from: oc1 on September 20, 2017, 07:48:52 AM
Where's that description of how to hold the four bridge screws and the dog spring in place while rotating the bridge around until the pinion clicks into place.  That part takes hours to figure out on your own the first time.

This video below from Scott's is a classic.  Helped me immensely my first time.  And don't forget the rubberband trick (earlier in this thread).  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oXKJAeVMkM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oXKJAeVMkM)

Quote from: oc1 on September 20, 2017, 07:48:52 AM
I'm swearing off all aluminum because it does not hold up.  When was the last time you saw a brass spool with little chips corroded off the edge of the flange?  You see it with aluminum spools all the time.  The old non-anodized aluminum is the worse but it happens with modern anodized aluminum reels as well.  If the anodizing is scratched or worn the aluminum will start to corrode below.  You cannot replace the anodizing so it is difficult to stop once it starts.

Steve, I'm a relative newbie, and this is the first time I've heard this point of view on aluminum.   Going to have to keep an eye on those scratches.   Up to this point I've only seen very superficial ones that didn't seem at all threatening.  I don't live near salt water, and imagine that is a factor.  This topic deserves its own thread in the future. ;) /Joe

Thanks for the encouragement. I actually have a few weeks before I have to pull the boat and stop fishing. I've decided to keep trying to get the reel I am working on repaired and, if I am unable to, then take advantage of the offer to repair them I have been given here. I am lucky to have found this site and appreciate your help.

I took the advice of cleaning up a working reel and have a question about adjusting it. What does zero load and zero free play mean and how do I know when I have it?

Still cannot get the original reel to turn after installing the dog gear and spring and replacing the screws. I watched the video and everything seems like it should.

I'm not as experienced as the other guys who have responded here, but for me the biggest challenge was getting the bridge in place without the dog (or its spring) slipping out of place.  Also I remember at some point, I had the jack under the yoke.  Keep trying!   Once you get it, it will be like riding a bike.

Streetglider, back in your 1st post you mentioned that -no matter how hard one of the boys was reeling it wouldn't bring in line. Was the handle turning? Sometimes braided line will slip on the spool if not attached to a good anchor at the bottom, such as tape or mono. line. This'ed probably be completly diffrent than the binding issue.
Gfish

Does the gear sleeve spin on the bridge assembly?  The handle was turning when they were reeling it in.

Yes the gear sleeve is supposed to turn freely on the ss bridge post. It is secured by a cross pin just below the threads on the sleeve. The pin fits snuggly but moves freely around with the sleeve. The inside of the sleeve is normaly greased or oiled. Grease will last longer but oil makes for longer casting.                Rudy

With all of your help, I have managed to get the reel back together and functioning rather well. It took a lot of trial and error but thankfully, whenever I ran into an issue, I was able to ask questions here.  I will be replacing all of the drag washers this winter on all four of my Penn reels, and servicing them.  I will research anything else I should do at the same time. Thanks again.

Jack

   Good work streetglider...glad it worked out. 8)

Well done!

Be careful, or before you know it, you will have your friends' reels on your bench too.

;)

Excellent work, Jack,

Best,

Fred

Good job Jack, you won't know unless you try.
Your next one should be easier.

Best,

Sal

WoooHooo jack  :D  Glad you gave it a shot...Now time to formally welcome you to the Darkside  ;D  No turning back now brother we hooked anther one   ::)  Bill

Good going.  Did you figure out what was wrong with it?
-steve

Yes, the gear sleeve spin on the bridge assembly was stuck. I was able to get it apart and cleaned it all up.  The reel looks pretty good now.  I am going to clean and oil them all and replace all of the drag washers on the reels in a few weeks once the boat is out.  I want to get some Cal's and Corrosion X too. I don't know if anything else should be replaced but I will research it a bit. 

Thanks for this tutorial, Alan.  l was able to get some work done on one of my Penn Peerless No. 9s.  The rubber band trick really helped.

Hey Fella's, I have a few questions about improving my USA Made 209.

I plan to update the washers in this 209 and two 330 GT2's & I'm wondering which Cal's drag grease to get. I'm guessing these are classed as small reels, but not sure?

I have a bottle of Corrosion X, is that the same as the Reel X suggested here?

Is there a better choice between Yamaha grease and the Pen Reel Grease for the gears in these models?

To upgrade the gear sleeve can i use the 98-155PRO part with a new star drag 10-505?

One more for now, I'd like to upgrade the Fiber Washer in the 330 GT2's to the carbon fiber part #6-875. Mystic Parts shows none in stock, but found another site claiming to have them. Anybody know if these are still around?

Thanks in advance, PDXTL

the stock carbon fiber drag washers inside the main gears are fine.  stick with them.  for washers under the main gear, smoothdrag has a "jigmaster" washer and "113h 4/0 senator" washer made of carbon fiber.  you can ask specifically for those.  for the grease, use either the peanut butter-colored regular stuff or the thinner purple "low temp" stuff.  either one will be fine.  i only use the regular stuff.  corrosion x and reel x are basically the same, except that reel x has more lubricant and less diluent.  between yamaha grease and penn grease, i prefer the yamaha brand, but both will work equally well.  for gear sleeves, stick with the stock brass ones as long as they are ok.  if you need a replacement, then look at stainless. 

you'll have to get the drag washers from smoothdrag.com.  both mystic parts and smoothdrag will have everything else.  good luck!  alan

Thanks Alan, these reels all have very little use on them at this point, so I'll stick with the brass gear sleeve for now. One more question, I'm pretty sure I bought the 209 in 1990, would the stock washers be carbon on this one, or should I upgrade them?

they should be carbon fiber.  just grease them and you should be fine!!!!!

Great! One last thing. The Jigmaster 500 washer would replace the base fiber washer on the 209 & the 113h would be for the base of the 33o GT2's, correct?

With the 209 being about 30 years old, should I find a way to get all the old lubricants off, or just clean out what I can with a basic break down?

Thanks for all your help, I'll be firing in to these as soon as I get the parts in!!

Quote from: PDXTightlines on January 31, 2020, 04:05:36 AM
Great! One last thing. The Jigmaster 500 washer would replace the base fiber washer on the 209 & the 113h would be for the base of the 33o GT2's, correct?

With the 209 being about 30 years old, should I find a way to get all the old lubricants off, or just clean out what I can with a basic break down?

Thanks for all your help, I'll be firing in to these as soon as I get the parts in!!

the original penn drag washers do not work that well under the main gear.  there are two types - thick and thin.  the thick ht-100 drag washers are the ones found in the 113h.  they have a stiff fiberglass core with a layer of carbon fiber on each side.  then thin ht-100 drag washers are the ones found in the jigmasters and squidders.  they are a single layer of carbon fiber. 

the thick ones work ok if there is enough room in the drag stack, but sometimes they are too thick and cause spacing problems.  the thin ones do not cause spacing problems, but they get mashed down too much and can fail.  that's why i like to use the thin carbon fiber from smoothdrag.  they are a better quality weave so they hold up fine and they do not cause spacing problems because they are the right thickness.

for dealing with excess grease in the reel, i just wipe it all out as best i can, maybe scrub with an old toothbrush, maybe a q-tip or two, and call it done.  my goal is a light, then professional looking coat of grease to coat and protect the inside, but nothing so thick that it looks like a 5 year old went in with a grease can and a paint brush.  it really doesn't matter that much, but it's just something that i've migrated to over the years. 

For the several I've torn down and cleaned up, I found soaking the parts in PB Blaster or WD-40 in a small glass jar worked very well to get old grease and lube to come off easily, and then simply rubbing off any extra with scraps of an old T-shirt worked great. Dry everything very well, and then assemble- lubricating as you go. Very easy to work these over and get them as good as new.

The Smooth Drag brand carbon washers are very nice, as are the Penn HT-100 ones, I have a set of each on a couple of 209s, as wellas a 209 with the original leather(?) ones. I think they are a very nice improvement over the original drags in the older reels.

Were does the Penn 209 gets greased? I don't see it in the tutorial. Do the gears get any grease or just lube?

Yes grease the gears and a lightly grease the bridge assembly use oil on the bearings and the levelwind .

Kim

First thanks to Alan for a great tutorial.  I went through another 209 with my 8 year old grandson.  This is now his very own reel.  I wanted him to understand it a little.

I couldn't find a rubber band so tried something different this time.  When ready for the level wind I built the non handle side with post and reel set.  After putting the spool in place I put one screw on the handle side reel set loosely.  I then loosely added the screw on the post #59 that has the slot for the line guide #46. 

(https://alantani.com/gallery/34/medium_14638_11_03_21_5_12_38_346281637.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=34632)

This held the reel loosely together while I inserted the worm shield #50 into the 4 little holes.  Once in place I tightened the 2 screws.  With the shield in place I could insert the worm #42 and line guide as a unit.

(https://alantani.com/gallery/34/medium_14638_11_03_21_5_12_45_346321190.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=34633)

I had removed the left side worm bearing #42 and worked the worm assembly into the open area on left side

(https://alantani.com/gallery/34/medium_14638_11_03_21_5_12_57_346331710.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=34634)

and once in I inserted the right side into the right side worm bearing #43.  Once it in place I ensured that the worm drive was moving when spool moved.  I then installed the right side bearing, ensured everything worked properly and continued with assembly

(https://alantani.com/gallery/34/medium_14638_11_03_21_5_13_04_34634394.jpeg) (https://alantani.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=34635)

It took twice as long to write this up as it did to do it.  I hope this helps if you don't have a rubber band handy.

Ken,
I learned to do it your way, first get the shield locked in place then the worm through the headplate hole. As I often stumble when trying to chew gum, working on one thing at a time on assembly is best for me.  Removing the worm like this is I've learned is a much easier way to change out a pawl than trying to do it still in the reel having to remove the pillar under the worm. I just did a swap of worm assemblies on a pair of 209's, by just removing the headplate worm screw from a working shelfie colormatic to fix one I want to go fishing with.  The donor shelfie  with the worn assembly installed for looks will get a new worm when my Mystic list gets to a C note.  My "DUH" moment on this thread was Alan having the bridge turned to slightly cover the dog spring cavity before smooshing in the tiny spring cutting down it's possible "Fly Away" routes by 50%.