There are some things that never change (like death and taxes) in the realm of this forum. This topic is to provide constants in the world of this site - reels, rods, lubes, whatever.
I'll post a few, and please contribute as you think of them. Please stay on-topic, no opinions, and try not to repeat or X2 a posting. I'd like to see this as a quick reference for anyone needing hard and fast information.
If you dispute a posting, please do so respectfully and explain why you feel you are correct.
Thanks,
Rob
A gear ratio can be determined by dividing the number of teeth in the main gear by the number of teeth in the pinion gear. The answer (quotient) is the ratio. This works for ALL gear sets.
The shorter the arm on a reel handle, the faster you will make a complete circle (and reel in line), but the harder the handle will be to turn. The opposite is true as a handle arm is lengthened.
Reality is a SS gear sleeve is one of the BEST upgrades you can do.
Bob
The taller the spool, the faster the effective gear ratio of the reel.
Ron
As line comes off the spool, the drag becomes more efficient (stronger).
Sticky drags (start up) cause lots of big fish to be lost. Greased carbon fiber goes a long way to fix this.
Ron
The first thing to go bad on a lever drag reel is (almost) always the pinion bearing.
Cf drag material is a far superior to what (leather,felt.....) was used befor.
High gear ratio for speed. Low gear ratio for power.
If your in the middle of servicing a reel and reach a stage of total frustration, take a deep breath, walk away from it and take a break. Once calmed down, have another go.
Quote from: Fish-aholic on May 29, 2013, 10:46:14 PM
If your in the middle of servicing a reel and reach a stage of total frustration, take a deep breath, walk away from it and take a break. Once calmed down, have another go.
There is nothing like a cup of Coffee when you have a problem.
Mike
Don't repair under the influence. The reel you kill could be your own. Don't drink and screw drive!
Quote from: nelz on July 10, 2013, 08:38:56 PM
Don't repair under the influence. The reel you kill could be your own. Don't drink and screw drive!
That their is funny, I don't care who you are.
Ron
Quote from: Norcal Pescador on May 24, 2013, 01:31:23 AM
A gear ratio can be determined by dividing the number of teeth in the main gear by the number of teeth in the pinion gear. The answer (quotient) is the ratio. This works for ALL gear sets.
I'm trying to wrap my head around this one. For straight cut gears, I can see this, but for heliocut gears where you may have 3 or 4 gear teeth in contact... Maybe I'm over thinking this thing.
You are overthinking Bryan. ;D ;D
It doesn't matter Bryan. Think about the center or lead or last teeth to mesh. If you mark one tooth on the main and one on the pinion and count teeth, it will work whether straight, angled, or helical cut.
Try this: Fasten a main gear to a board and mark a tooth, any tooth. Now mark a tooth, any tooth on a pinion gear. Insert a drill bit or something into the pinion that the pinion will spin on easily. Now line up the dots on the gears and move the pinion around the main gear keeping the teeth meshing as you go. Count how many times the pinion made a complete revolution. It should equal the gear ratio based on the formula for gear ratios.
for gear ratio,,
with the reel assembled,
make a mark on one side of the spool with a sharpie, greasepencil at a 12 o'clock position,, index the handle on something,, straight up 12' etc.. and roll the handle one revolution,, and count the number of times the "mark rolls by the index..
this will also give a rough estimation of gear ratio..
Quote from: Norcal Pescador on July 11, 2013, 11:39:41 PM
...move the pinion around the main gear keeping the teeth meshing as you go. Count how many times the pinion made a complete revolution. It should equal the gear ratio based on the formula for gear ratios.
Try that with a pair of quarters. Surprise!
(strangely, it doesn't work. The ratio between two identically sized wheels is undeniably 1:1. But when one orbits the static other, you'll find that it rotates twice.)
.
That's 'cause the moving coin has to make up for the lack of movement (rotation) of the other. ;D
Well harumph. :-\ Maybe it's a good thing I said try this. ::)
Quote from: Bryan Young on July 11, 2013, 10:11:04 PM
Quote from: Norcal Pescador on May 24, 2013, 01:31:23 AM
A gear ratio can be determined by dividing the number of teeth in the main gear by the number of teeth in the pinion gear. The answer (quotient) is the ratio. This works for ALL gear sets.
I'm trying to wrap my head around this one. For straight cut gears, I can see this, but for heliocut gears where you may have 3 or 4 gear teeth in contact... Maybe I'm over thinking this thing.
The gear ratio between 2 gears is determined by their respective diameters, and since the teeth have to be identical for the gears to mesh, their diameter is a function of the number of teeth. That's why you can just divide the number of teeth to get the ratio.
Generally, any reel is only going to be as effective in catching fish as the person using it. "It's not the arrows, it's the indian." Of course, all the arrows we are referring to are serviced regularly.
Quote from: nelz on July 10, 2013, 08:38:56 PM
Don't repair under the influence. The reel you kill could be your own. Don't drink and screw drive!
I respectfully disagree. A beer or two is fine. After three or eight, who wants to work on reels?
Quote from: Three se7ens on July 15, 2013, 03:07:09 AM
The gear ratio between 2 gears is determined by their respective diameters, and since the teeth have to be identical for the gears to mesh, their diameter is a function of the number of teeth. That's why you can just divide the number of teeth to get the ratio.
I hear this from time to time on this sight and it just doesn't make sense. If I have 10 teeth on 1 5 inch gear and 5 teeth on 1 2.5 inch gear I have a 2:1 ratio, end of story. Admittedly the teeth would be HUGE to make that work but you get my drift.
If I have 10 teeth on 1 2.5 inch gear and 5 teeth on one 1 inch gear the ratio is, you guessed it, 2:1! Although from a design standpoint gear size for a given ratio is needed for proper function, diameter has no impact on ratio.
Ron
Quote from: jonathan.han on July 15, 2013, 04:58:57 AM
I respectfully disagree. A beer or two is fine. After three or eight, who wants to work on reels?
Ok, I must admit, I'm guilty of this myself. I need a drink just to muster up the courage to take apart that ol' Slammer LiveLiner! Actually, I find it makes my fingers a bit steadier for those tiny parts. But just one drink, or else!
In "DOG BEERS", I've only had one!! ;D
TomT
Quote from: TomT on July 15, 2013, 10:34:58 PM
In "DOG BEERS", I've only had one!! ;D
TomT
LOVE THIS :D
Quote from: noyb72 on July 15, 2013, 05:11:54 AM
Quote from: Three se7ens on July 15, 2013, 03:07:09 AM
The gear ratio between 2 gears is determined by their respective diameters, and since the teeth have to be identical for the gears to mesh, their diameter is a function of the number of teeth. That's why you can just divide the number of teeth to get the ratio.
I hear this from time to time on this sight and it just doesn't make sense. If I have 10 teeth on 1 5 inch gear and 5 teeth on 1 2.5 inch gear I have a 2:1 ratio, end of story. Admittedly the teeth would be HUGE to make that work but you get my drift.
If I have 10 teeth on 1 2.5 inch gear and 5 teeth on one 1 inch gear the ratio is, you guessed it, 2:1! Although from a design standpoint gear size for a given ratio is needed for proper function, diameter has no impact on ratio.
Ron
Diameter does not have a direct effect on final gear ratio. It is the circumferences of each gear that is affected by diameter than changes gear ratio. But, you can't increase since most reels can't take a larger diameter gear. Increasing the diameter of a gear while maintaining the same pinion gear will give a higher gear ration. Decreasing dia. while keeping pinon size the same will decrease gear ratio.
For the gears to mesh correctly, the cut of each tooth is like thread pitch on a bolt, hole, or nut and they must be the same or they cannot mesh with one another. Therefore, the spacing between each tooth, just like thread pitch will be the same. In threads, you have "threads per inch". You count the threads since that is in reference to the length as if you were measuring in millimeters or inches. So, in a 1/4-20 bolt, we have 20 threads per inch. It's the same concept but the thread lays on the circumference of the gears. COUNT THE TEETH! It's a sure fire method; it's never wrong. NEVER (unless you use the wrong pinion gear-then it's FUBARed)
Quote from: nelz on July 10, 2013, 08:38:56 PM
Don't repair under the influence. The reel you kill could be your own. Don't drink and screw drive!
been there, done that. never again
If you can't get a trim/ beauty ring back on an old reel... Put it in the toaster oven for a few minutes (use oven gloves to remove) and put the side plate in the freezer for an hour. Then reassemble.
Dom
While it is true that the man operating the machine has a lot to do with the results, it's equally true that machines (including reels) have an optimum operating range. Using a 6/0 to catch river trout is somewhat unreasonable, as is using a bait casting reel to catch a 1000 pound marlin.
On another note, a guy I know is a retired auto mechanic. He enjoys repairing stuff, including non-automotive. I've advised him a few times, that just because something can be repaired doesn't mean it should be. For example, his impact gun stopped working and he opted to buy the repair parts rather than just toss it in the trash (he has many impact guns, including better ones). After the cost of the part and shipping, he spent more than if he had just bought another gun (same brand same model). To make matter worse, it still didn't work because something else was wrong. He then decided to toss the gun. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. If cost is not an issue, then buy the appropriate item for the job, get regular maintenance, and buy the best available to begin with.
Quote from: Makule on December 03, 2013, 02:32:22 AM
While it is true that the man operating the machine has a lot to do with the results, it's equally true that machines (including reels) have an optimum operating range. Using a 6/0 to catch river trout is somewhat unreasonable, as is using a bait casting reel to catch a 1000 pound marlin.
On another note, a guy I know is a retired auto mechanic. He enjoys repairing stuff, including non-automotive. I've advised him a few times, that just because something can be repaired doesn't mean it should be. For example, his impact gun stopped working and he opted to buy the repair parts rather than just toss it in the trash (he has many impact guns, including better ones). After the cost of the part and shipping, he spent more than if he had just bought another gun (same brand same model). To make matter worse, it still didn't work because something else was wrong. He then decided to toss the gun. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. If cost is not an issue, then buy the appropriate item for the job, get regular maintenance, and buy the best available to begin with.
If most would try to fix things instead of just buying new, we wouldn't be in the situation that we're in today.
Also, since this is a fishing reel related site, I'm going to keep on fixing and exploring with my older Penns instead of buying new ones.....just my 2 cents.
I can't throw anything away I can that I can fix, I hate waste.
A few weeks ago I went out to a friends cousins farm to see if I could get their domestic water system fixed for the renters. It took me 30 minutes and the pump repair crooks said it would be a $1000 job....they paid me $100. In the pump house was the old pump that was replaced 6 years ago and I took it home to see if I could fix it. A blow down to remove spiders, a $7.00 capacitor and 15 minutes is all it needed.
High speed reels are great for "fishing". When your hook or lure is coming back empty they seem dreamy. When you suddenly hook a good fish, not so much.
Low speed reels are great for "catching". But will wear you out fishing artificials on them all day when the catching is slow. There is no free lunch other than 2-speed reels. Unfortunately, they are not free!
Get the best star drag reel in "3/0" size that you can afford. It will catch 95% of the fish in Continental USA saltwater, cast light baits/lures better and be more reliable than any other type. Everything else is just a vanity! You just think you need it, but you don't. :D
3/0 single speed reel for fishing 30# leaders generally, 2-speed reel for fishing leaders 40# and above, generally. You might not think you need a 2-speed reel but trust me, you do when something that really needs 40# leader is on the other end.
Spinning reels are for popping or casting other light lures. And watching a 150lb tuna with his back out of the water charging your lure is as exciting as it gets. I don't care what you use to try it but you gotta try it.
The modern large Low Profile conventional reel for SW is an absolute blast. As above, it should be on your bucket list to max the fun meter.
best
X2 and that is why I have so many with 3.1 to 4.2 gears for bottom fishing.
Why limit yourself to only one gear ratio? Power mode and lazy mode for retrieving bait/lures.
K.I.S.S
A one speed, bearingless star drag has worked forever and will work forever. I don't think I'd know how to shift and I know for certain I don't want to try to remember how with the rod bent over and me holing on for dear life.
In all honesty, 95% of my salt water catches could be caught with a Baymaster or a Mitchel 300, and when you are using those and you hook into something bigger than you expected...life is good.
Ron
A good strong magnet is a great way to search on the floor for wayward screws, springs and clips.
Pelagic species or deep water fishing in excess of 400ft. is about the where you'd start to use a 2 speed. Anything inshore or requiring lighter applications you can stick with your baitcasters (low-profile), typical star drags, and spinners. KISS is pretty much universally understood in that arena. My freshwater gear and lighter nearshore gear is all single speed stars or levers for salt.
One constant on this site is: You will learn something, you will laugh & if you drink and repair you may cry...OK that's 3 ;D ;D ;D
More Reel Facts:
One reel's 25lbs of drag is not another's.
A modern Big Game 50 X makes 25lbs reliably for huge fish that make 700 yard runs. Time and time again. This is about all the drag anglers can handle be they stand up, rail or chair fisherman, in general. Even reels this size get smoked by some fish.
It weighs 3 3/4 lbs. Kinda Boat Anchor like for holding in your hands. But they are built that heavy for a reason.
Smaller reels that make "25lbs" are only intended to do that on smaller grade fish that can easily be stopped short by that amount of drag. They excel at that particularly when there is structure to cut you off on the bottom. They are a joy to fish all day.
They cannot do so on a 500 yard run time and time again and not come to grief. They cannot be pushed to "Full" past that 25lbs to 30+ lbs and then get spooled and not likely be the worse for the wear. Modern small lever drags come in at about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lbs. They are built that light for good reason, to be a pleasure to fish. Especially for the more energetic techniques (Wahoo, yo-yo, vertical jigging etc.).
But the laws of metallurgy have not been repealed and they simply cannot do what true big game reels do and vice-versa. That Big Game reel is built 3 times heavier for a reason...Don't kid yourself that your lightweight 2-speed can do it all. You have made a trade off to go light and the short end of that trade is coming if you fish it long enough.
This is not a bad thing necessarily, just understand your gear and it's limitations and don't think it's something it is not.
best
HI ALAN, ROB THE REEL DOCTOR. WHAT I HAVE FOUND TO CLEAN REELS WITH AFTER FISHING IN SALTWATER BABY SHAMPOO IT IS MILD AND FRESH WATER. I DRY THE REELS OFF AND SPRAY IT WITH INOX MX 3 THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST THAT I HAVE TRYED. AND THIS IS WHY. IT'S DISPLACE MOISTURE WILL NOT HARM METAL PLASTICS PAINT OR ANY FINISHES THAT I AM AWARE OF. DOES NOT DRY OUT GUM UP OR STICKY AND IT DOES NOT WASH OFF WITH PLAN WATER. SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO SPRAY IT ON EVERY TIME YOU RINSE AND A CAN LAST FOR HUNDRED OF WASHING OR RINSES. AND IT IS FOOD GRADE APPROVED. AND KOSHER CERTIFIED. IT ALSO PENETRATE CORROSION LUBRICATES GOOD ON ELECTRONIC I CAN GO ON BUT READ IT ON LINE. AND I SPRAY IT IN MY REELS AND BEARINGS. IT HELPS A LOT. IT IS ONE OF THE BEST LIGHT LUBES I HAVE RUN IT TOO. AND IT MAKES YOUR REEL LOOK LIKE NEW. PS I HAVE FOUND A NOTHER THAT WORKS WELL ALSO BUT I WILL SAVE IT FOR A RAINING DAY. THANKS..ROB
Quote from: Alto Mare on December 03, 2013, 02:49:40 AM
Quote from: Makule on December 03, 2013, 02:32:22 AM
While it is true that the man operating the machine has a lot to do with the results, it's equally true that machines (including reels) have an optimum operating range. Using a 6/0 to catch river trout is somewhat unreasonable, as is using a bait casting reel to catch a 1000 pound marlin.
On another note, a guy I know is a retired auto mechanic. He enjoys repairing stuff, including non-automotive. I've advised him a few times, that just because something can be repaired doesn't mean it should be. For example, his impact gun stopped working and he opted to buy the repair parts rather than just toss it in the trash (he has many impact guns, including better ones). After the cost of the part and shipping, he spent more than if he had just bought another gun (same brand same model). To make matter worse, it still didn't work because something else was wrong. He then decided to toss the gun. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. If cost is not an issue, then buy the appropriate item for the job, get regular maintenance, and buy the best available to begin with.
If most would try to fix things instead of just buying new, we wouldn't be in the situation that we're in today.
Also, since this is a fishing reel related site, I'm going to keep on fixing and exploring with my older Penns instead of buying new ones.....just my 2 cents.
I do both. I fix and enhance the ones I have and buy more new ones too. I want my cake and eat it too!
Quote from: Makule on December 03, 2013, 02:32:22 AM
While it is true that the man operating the machine has a lot to do with the results, it's equally true that machines (including reels) have an optimum operating range. Using a 6/0 to catch river trout is somewhat unreasonable, as is using a bait casting reel to catch a 1000 pound marlin.
On another note, a guy I know is a retired auto mechanic. He enjoys repairing stuff, including non-automotive. I've advised him a few times, that just because something can be repaired doesn't mean it should be. For example, his impact gun stopped working and he opted to buy the repair parts rather than just toss it in the trash (he has many impact guns, including better ones). After the cost of the part and shipping, he spent more than if he had just bought another gun (same brand same model). To make matter worse, it still didn't work because something else was wrong. He then decided to toss the gun. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. If cost is not an issue, then buy the appropriate item for the job, get regular maintenance, and buy the best available to begin with.
I agree if we are talking about appliances or tools, but reels are an entirely different thing for me. Most of the old reels I buy will never again see the deck of a boat. I just like to make them capable.
Me too!! repairing an old reel and getting it back to good working condition gives a great feeling of satisfaction, even if some parts have to be replaced.
I would have 3 times as many old Penns if I could get them as cheap as they are in USA. (that`s probably a good thing)
Basto
Reel lube from the "Gun Guys". Here it is............ Bull Frog Rust Hunter. Best on the planet. Gun lubed with Hopps in salt spray showed rust in 12 hours. Gun lubed with Bull Frog rust Hunter in salt spray showed no rust in a week. I use it on everything. Cheap insurance and smells good too. Check youtube vid.
I had my senior moment today.....picked up an old 112H with post frames and torpedo handles yesterday, too late to do anything with it, so I day dreamed while at work today....got home grabbed a beer and turned on the tv while I tore it down...was pleasantly surprised to find carbon fiber drags already in it but they were dry and all the old grease was dry and hardened...so another beer and some scrubbing, new grease and time to put it back together...ohh and another beer....got the drag stack together, greased the screw holes and generally greased everything....watching tv and another beer....not in a big hurry to get it done, because this is supposed to be fun.
Anyway all back together and the eccentric doesnt wok...wont move.....ok...tear it down....check the eccentric to make sure it moves correctly...back together...still doesnt work ......another tear down ad reassemble...still nada....ok check the tutorial on the rebuild....got everything ready to go back together....damn...still nada.
Long story short....had the bridge screws reversed and the yoke was hanging up on the threads....ohhh and another beer...think it's bed time for Bonzo.... ;D
Quote from: TARFU on May 09, 2015, 06:20:58 AM
Long story short....had the bridge screws reversed and the yoke was hanging up on the threads....ohhh and another beer...think it's bed time for Bonzo.... ;D
That happens to me too... except with vodka not beer...
A dab of grease on the retainer clips prevents them from flying into space when you remove them!
Quote from: steelhead_killer on November 15, 2015, 04:18:27 PM
A dab of grease on the retainer clips prevents them from flying into space when you remove them!
GEEEENIIIIOOOOUUUSSS !!!! In my best Pavaroti voice ...
Quote from: jonathan.han on July 16, 2013, 07:55:07 AM
Quote from: noyb72 on July 15, 2013, 05:11:54 AM
Quote from: Three se7ens on July 15, 2013, 03:07:09 AM
The gear ratio between 2 gears is determined by their respective diameters, and since the teeth have to be identical for the gears to mesh, their diameter is a function of the number of teeth. That's why you can just divide the number of teeth to get the ratio.
I hear this from time to time on this sight and it just doesn't make sense. If I have 10 teeth on 1 5 inch gear and 5 teeth on 1 2.5 inch gear I have a 2:1 ratio, end of story. Admittedly the teeth would be HUGE to make that work but you get my drift.
If I have 10 teeth on 1 2.5 inch gear and 5 teeth on one 1 inch gear the ratio is, you guessed it, 2:1! Although from a design standpoint gear size for a given ratio is needed for proper function, diameter has no impact on ratio.
Ron
Diameter does not have a direct effect on final gear ratio. It is the circumferences of each gear that is affected by diameter than changes gear ratio. But, you can't increase since most reels can't take a larger diameter gear. Increasing the diameter of a gear while maintaining the same pinion gear will give a higher gear ration. Decreasing dia. while keeping pinon size the same will decrease gear ratio.
For the gears to mesh correctly, the cut of each tooth is like thread pitch on a bolt, hole, or nut and they must be the same or they cannot mesh with one another. Therefore, the spacing between each tooth, just like thread pitch will be the same. In threads, you have "threads per inch". You count the threads since that is in reference to the length as if you were measuring in millimeters or inches. So, in a 1/4-20 bolt, we have 20 threads per inch. It's the same concept but the thread lays on the circumference of the gears. COUNT THE TEETH! It's a sure fire method; it's never wrong. NEVER (unless you use the wrong pinion gear-then it's FUBARed)
This is correct.
Quote from: Makule on December 03, 2013, 02:32:22 AMWhile it is true that the man operating the machine has a lot to do with the results, it's equally true that machines (including reels) have an optimum operating range. Using a 6/0 to catch river trout is somewhat unreasonable, as is using a bait casting reel to catch a 1000 pound marlin.
On another note, a guy I know is a retired auto mechanic. He enjoys repairing stuff, including non-automotive. I've advised him a few times, that just because something can be repaired doesn't mean it should be. For example, his impact gun stopped working and he opted to buy the repair parts rather than just toss it in the trash (he has many impact guns, including better ones). After the cost of the part and shipping, he spent more than if he had just bought another gun (same brand same model). To make matter worse, it still didn't work because something else was wrong. He then decided to toss the gun. Just because you can, doesn't mean you should. If cost is not an issue, then buy the appropriate item for the job, get regular maintenance, and buy the best available to begin with.
That is how I "repair" my cheap Chinese head lamp.
Payed for the lamp 2 € and than replace the LED diodes within with separately bough expensive CREE diode, 5 W, 6 €.
Plus replaced battery casing with new one, for better contact, that costs 2 €.
Repair vs Replace?
Some like to tinker and some don't. It's all about the value of your time. When the value of your time is no longer measured in dollars, but instead in enjoyment or even necessity, the things you do are usually more rewarding. I believe this is a constant.
:fish
Quote from: Ron Jones on July 10, 2013, 09:16:41 PMQuote from: nelz on July 10, 2013, 08:38:56 PMDon't repair under the influence. The reel you kill could be your own. Don't drink and screw drive!
That their is funny, I don't care who you are.
Ron
Not only funny but true!!