Reel Repair by Alan Tani

If you have one of these, you already know what I'm talking about
No matter what size screwdriver or how careful you are, somehow the slot in the bearing cup always gets damaged.
If you want to keep it nice, try one of these
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/007_zps41d763d9.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/007_zps41d763d9.jpg.html)
Sal

Oops!! Toooooooo late ::)

I always thought they come out of the box nicked, chipped & scrached.

Mike

i have a stubby screwdriver with a big flat blade that was cut to fit those. 

You might be better off with the yoke boss. No chance of damaging it, no sharp edges and lots of control.
Give it a shot and let me know.

oh, that's why you have the yokes there!  i was wondering what they were doing in the photo!

Good tip Sal. I use a gunsmith screwdriver set. I can pick a tip that fits but that would be easier.  Bob

I use a Nickel or Dime or Penny. They all fit Newell's

My son just take my whole plate and skids it across the garage floor as soon as I get it, then I dont have to worry anymore about how pretty it stays

He's not yet three but he's already a thinker

Thanks for the tip Sal, it's one I will use.

Good Idea.  Hey, I keep learning stuff here.. :D

I just used a brass yoke to remove a nasty bearing-cup from older accu-plate

worked great!!!

Thanks Sal

Come on guys and gals, get creative and come up with something on your own, so Alan can sticky this.
It would be nice to have a dedicated section for "tip of the day". I'm sure some of you have a few tricks up your sleeve.
Lets see it.;)
Sal

Quote from: Alto Mare on August 09, 2013, 05:53:31 PM
Come on guys and gals, get creative and come up with something on your own, so Alan can sticky this.
It would be nice to have a dedicated section for "tip of the day". I'm sure some of you have a few tricks up your sleeve.
Lets see it.;)
Sal

OK Sal, I just cut a q-tip in half, inserted shaft into my dremel and used it to polish inside of some bushings. I did not have any polishing attachments that were small enough.

There you go Joel, very nice ;). I know it's tempting, but try to keep it away from your ears ;D

Keep extra dog springs, and you can make the flat ones for black side senators out of razor blades, thats why the spring in my 9/0 is. Because...its a bird, its a plane, its a flying dog spring lol

Here is an easy way to remove a sleeve pin. No need to hold the punch on the pin while hitting it with a hammer, just to have it slip at times and scratch the sleeve. A little pressure is usually all that is needed, place the bridge on a towel, apply a little pressure and it will come right out.

(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/photos/006_zps61ebaeec.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/photos/006_zps61ebaeec.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/photos/004_zps828b2a36.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/photos/004_zps828b2a36.jpg.html)

The 1/16 punch is from $1 to $4, depending on brand, the Nicholson type C handle is $.99 both at any home centers.
No gluing needed, just press it in and you're set.
Thanks again for the punch Harry ;).
Sal

sal     my   pleasure, glad it will be useful for you.    harry

sal      i think that is a fantastic idea   '' tip of the day  ''    alot of members come up with tricks of the trade that we all can benefit from, great idea. harryk

Quote from: harryk3616 on September 29, 2013, 02:45:56 PM
sal      i think that is a fantastic idea   '' tip of the day  ''    alot of members come up with tricks of the trade that we all can benefit from, great idea. harryk

x2\

Quote from: Alto Mare on September 29, 2013, 12:07:27 PM
Here is an easy way to remove a sleeve pin. No need to hold the punch on the pin while hitting it with a hammer, just to have it slip at times and scratch the sleeve. A little pressure is usually all that is needed, place the bridge on a towel, apply a little pressure and it will come right out.

(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/photos/006_zps61ebaeec.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/photos/006_zps61ebaeec.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/photos/004_zps828b2a36.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/photos/004_zps828b2a36.jpg.html)

The 1/16 punch is from $1 to $4, depending on brand, the Nicholson type C handle is $.99 both at any home centers.
No gluing needed, just press it in and you're set.
Thanks again for the punch Harry ;).
Sal

Nice info! The sleeve pin on my 12/0 was really stiff. I had to help the punch with a hammer. I didn't like doing that but at least I didn't scratch up the sleeve too bad.......


You could also try resting the sleeve on a piece of PVC will help with removing the pin with no damage
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Photo%20May%2020%2010%2021%2013%20AM.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/Photo%20May%2020%2010%2021%2013%20AM.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/Photo%20May%2020%2010%2021%2043%20AM.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/Photo%20May%2020%2010%2021%2043%20AM.jpg.html)

Quote

Quote from: Bunnlevel Sharker on August 10, 2013, 04:05:02 AM
Keep extra dog springs, and you can make the flat ones for black side senators out of razor blades, thats why the spring in my 9/0 is. Because...its a bird, its a plane, its a flying dog spring lol

Razor blades, I like that. How springy is it compared to the origanal? What blades do you use?

So much better than brass, just an old one I was gonna toss. I save the heads from em now

well great idea, Ill have to try that! I seem to wear out my dog springs fast, so I could save some money!

The SS razor blades just need the edge knocked down, and they kinda have a nice crisp zing to em

Alright, thanks man!

Quote from: Dynamo on September 30, 2013, 03:15:40 AM
well great idea, Ill have to try that! I seem to wear out my dog springs fast, so I could save some money!

Bryan might have some custom stainless steel dog springs...... Bryan, if you do, I need some more.

nice tips guys...

Quote

Quote from: Alto Mare on September 30, 2013, 04:03:51 AM

Quote from: Dynamo on September 30, 2013, 03:15:40 AM
well great idea, Ill have to try that! I seem to wear out my dog springs fast, so I could save some money!

Bryan might have some custom stainless steel dog springs...... Bryan, if you do, I need some more.

Ooh, nice.

Here's a neat trick for service/repair without schematics:

as you take the reel apart, use empty egg-crates to put parts in consecutive compartments (you can even number them w/ a marker); take digital photos along the way; and reassemble in reverse order. If you choose correct critical moments & angles for the photos, it works better than any schematic. Best of all -- NO "EXTRA" PARTS left over!!!  you get to an egg-hole -- you MUST figure out where the part(s) go(es), before you proceed!!!

NOTE: cardboard egg-crates are best -- some lubes/solvents dissolve Styrofoam

great idea for keeping parts in order,  sal  (alto  mare )  had a great idea starting this tip of the day .  thanks  sal,    harryk

Yes Philaroman, great idea.

Thanks Harry!

Sal

Have you ever tried sanding a flat part on a piece of sandpaper?... Try this:
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/013_zps92421a87.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/013_zps92421a87.jpg.html)
Fold a piece of tape and stick the part on a piece of scrap wood.
I use 600 ultra fine no-slip backing sandpaper, a small cutting board...make sure the wife isn't looking ;D and some Scotch 3M  tape, the white is really sticky.
Great on washers, just don't do a circular motion, I've noticed it's best to slide up and down in a straight line.
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/016_zpsbbeba95d.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/016_zpsbbeba95d.jpg.html)
Enjoy!
Sal

When your putting a reel seat on and you remembered to tape the fore grip, don't forget to tape up the top of the seat to! :o don't ask me how I know

keeping alloy from going dull
after you get alloy nice and clean (fine grit)
wash over with kerosene and it will maintain its lustre.
kero goes into the pores. of the alloy
after awhile to bring it back up wipe over again with kero/rag.

Always grese your reel seat! Just went throught this one

This one may help with the new hex gears. To make a template for the drag washers, take a marker, or use layout fluid to color the top of the gear. Lay the gear flat colored side down on a flat bed scanner. Scan and print the image to a piece of card stock. Cut out the inside and you have a template to cut the outside of the drag washers with.  Bob

Allen head screws tend to round off. I use torx bits to remove these. They seem too "bite" better and don't tend too strip out.
Bob

Very good guys, keep them coming ;).
Southern Bob, very good tip on cutting the washers, I will use my flour that I've mentioned earlier for making pizza ;D.
I just want to add that those will need to be cut very snug, the angles on the gears are not as sharp as I would have liked them, but that was the machinist limitations....I'm still glad he was willing and able to do these for us.
I will be testing those on a reel that I'm putting together for a friend and yes, I did get mine before you did :P ;D.
we shall see how they hold up.
Sal

We see who's really getting the "special treatment!" ;)

Looking forward to seeing the old bucket and brick test. BE SAFE!! ;D

I'm learning a lot from you guys, thanks a million!

Sometimes i can't seem to remove some of the screws for the cross posts without them turning while i try to unscrew them like the one in the picture below.

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3706/10769888276_0c00812a28_z.jpg)

so i have to use pliers to hold them.  To prevent my pliers from damaging the chroming, i cut a couple of pieces of vacuum hoses to wrap over the jaws of the pliers.

(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7392/10769943854_a790840100_z.jpg)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3718/10769943794_a7dfd08077_z.jpg)




Once i get those crusty screws out, i like to soak them with PB Blaster in packages sorted by reels like this.


(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/10769943884_dbe0cc0c26_z.jpg)

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3751/10770107963_64303aa549_z.jpg)

because it comes out clean and shiny.

hose on the tip of the pliers, great, why didn't i think of that, nice going, we all are going to benefit from that tip.   harryk

Good stuff Dabigono, thanks for sharing. I usually spend $3 on pliers jaws protectors and they don't last very long., I could see yours lasting. You could keep that PB blaster though, that stuff is nasty ....but it gets the job done.
Sal

Sal,

you're definitely right about the PB Blaster, it is some nasty stuff which leads us to the next "tip of the day".

Most of us would agree that we work with toxic chemicals, whether it be PB Blaster or even Cal's drag grease, or TSI lubricant, or even WD40. 

I would highly recommend these -

(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3707/10801194904_ed5f10916b_z.jpg)

Because we work with toxic chemicals, we should wear "RUBBERS". 

I know, I know, nobody likes using rubbers because it doesn't feel 'natural'.  But my dad always said that it helps to prevent things that we don't want to happen from happening.

Rubbers can help to prevent toxic chemical absorption through the skin.

I hope all of us are practicing safe "reel maintenance".

The only problem with using rubbers is that I usually use brake cleaner to clean up all the old cruddy parts before a regrease. The brake cleaner eats them up.
I bought a can of engine degreaser by mistake last time. I didn't even realize it. The cans are the same color. I think it actually works better! It comes out like shaving cream. After it cleans up the parts, the shaving cream factor goes away with all the old crud as well. ;D

here's one if you forgot to grease the plate before screwing the newly cleaned (polished) and lubed bushings (bearings) and you don't want to unscrew the said parts.  ;D

(http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s410/flipmlb/IMG_20131121_111706_zpsa6ae6ead.jpg) (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/flipmlb/media/IMG_20131121_111706_zpsa6ae6ead.jpg.html)

Stainless steel screws for squidders, jigmasters and surfmasters are not easy to find in the proper length for the stand.
Here is a shot of what I'm talking about
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/006_zps6f2e0f16.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/006_zps6f2e0f16.jpg.html)
using an old stand that you don't care about, makes the job much easier when grinding the small screw down
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/002_zpsfdc2b65f.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/002_zpsfdc2b65f.jpg.html)
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/001_zps3b1fec97.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/001_zps3b1fec97.jpg.html)
these are now a perfect fit
(http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/t646/pescatore2/005_zpsec7a2898.jpg) (http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/pescatore2/media/005_zpsec7a2898.jpg.html)
Sal

Many of the older internationals Tiagra's and others have threaded drag covers which can be stubborn to remove.  Try these tips:
1)Try the correct specialty wrench first (if you've got one), if its not budging give the wrench a persuasive tap w/ a hammer.
2)if still stuck, try heating the drag plate/spool by running it under Hot tap water for awhile and repeat step 1
3) If still stuck you can try to use an appropriately sized car oil filter wrench to develop more torque.  I typically put a thin rag around the spool cover, under the wrench band to protect it, thin rubber (like from an inner tube) would really be best. If you are having trouble holding the spool while torqueing, you can gently clamp it in a wide- mouthed vice clamp with soft wood, and a rag to protect the spool from damage.
4)In a pinch, I have found wrspping a leather belt or strip of leather around the spool can duplicate the concept of the oil wrench.

A little high quality penetrating oil, some heat, and some light tapping around the spool/drag plate connection can help break it free.

Quote from: stevennc on March 04, 2014, 12:13:01 AM
I put together a reel that will be for bottom fishing in my kayak and on 1/2 days. I really do not like using anything too expensive on my yak because of possible theft while loading / unloading , risk of losing them to the sea, and just the fact that the reels are so close to the water the whole time. For this upcoming season I put together this Frankenstein Jigmaster from two broken reels , and extra parts. I ended up with some problems with the spacing sleeve sticking out too far after mixing the best gear with a different drag different bridge and drive etc. To take a small amount of material off the brass spacing sleeve this dremel grinding bit worked wonders and it was very quick. I used tape to mark were to end my grinding on the spacing sleeve. Sure its not as precise as some people with machine shop access, but it worked very well for me here are the pics of what I used.

(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/scubasteve2989/IMG_4669_zps77de2fcd.jpg) (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/scubasteve2989/media/IMG_4669_zps77de2fcd.jpg.html)
(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o67/scubasteve2989/IMG_4668_zps653b0744.jpg) (http://s117.photobucket.com/user/scubasteve2989/media/IMG_4668_zps653b0744.jpg.html)

Don't get rid of the delrin cutouts they might make a good spacer when an extra washer is needed.
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/upgrades%20for%20others/008_zps0d251a37.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/upgrades%20for%20others/008_zps0d251a37.jpg.html)
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/upgrades%20for%20others/010_zps54c0354d.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/upgrades%20for%20others/010_zps54c0354d.jpg.html)
(http://i766.photobucket.com/albums/xx305/pescatore3/upgrades%20for%20others/013_zps62faf70b.jpg) (http://s766.photobucket.com/user/pescatore3/media/upgrades%20for%20others/013_zps62faf70b.jpg.html)

Sal

Those Cut Outs would work nice on Newell Handles.

Mike

Why are they ruined Sal? explain

Probably just cosmetic -- not functionality?

Best,

Fred

I have done the same with vinegar. It is important to know how aggressive your cleaner is.
Ron

Quote from: foakes on October 19, 2014, 09:21:59 PM
Probably just cosmetic -- not functionality?

Best,

Fred

Yep! I could still use them, but the nice chrome is gone. This made me a little upset, most were for the 700 series, not available today.
I'm over it now though ;D
If you never make mistakes, you will never learn anything ;)
Sal

Sal --

If you need some specific bail screws to complete some old 700 series spinners -- I have quite a few for 700 -- 716, and up through I believe 722s.

Just let me know.

Best,

Fred

Someone came in last Thursday so I could order new parts for his Penn SSM spinning reel. He left the parts in Vinegar and Baking Soda? over night and nothing was left of the main gear and crosswind gear..!

Sal,

I too wonder what caused this chemical reaction?  Was it the mix of chrome, steel & aluminum parts??
My two years of chemistry in college in no way makes me a specalist in chemical reaction, but I will contact Simple Green & ask their R&D dept. for ideas.

Can you sort out the chrome, steel & AL parts for closer inspection photos??

The soaking basket looks to be aluminum, not stainless steel.  In fact, it looks like the colander my Mother used for drain pasta (or spagetti) as us Northern Italians called it!!!!

Back with some answers after speaking with SG.
Wayne

Quote from: handi2 on October 19, 2014, 10:24:57 PM
Someone came in last Thursday so I could order new parts for his Penn SSM spinning reel. He left the parts in Vinegar and Baking Soda? over night and nothing was left of the main gear and crosswind gear..!

Wow! They don't make them like they use to. ;)
As far as Sal's simple green issue, I think he just left them in too long. The green is that good. I use it when I have the patience, which isn't that often. I prefer a simple blast with brake cleaner or a coleman fuel soak which is almost instant and leaves no residue. ;)

Quote from: El Pescador on October 20, 2014, 02:42:14 AM
Sal,

I too wonder what caused this chemical reaction?  Was it the mix of chrome, steel & aluminum parts??
My two years of chemistry in college in no way makes me a specalist in chemical reaction, but I will contact Simple Green & ask their R&D dept. for ideas.

Can you sort out the chrome, steel & AL parts for closer inspection photos??

The soaking basket looks to be aluminum, not stainless steel.  In fact, it looks like the colander my Mother used for drain pasta (or spagetti) as us Northern Italians called it!!!!

Back with some answers after speaking with SG.
Wayne

Probably electrolysis.

Quote from: foakes on October 19, 2014, 10:21:15 PM
Sal --

If you need some specific bail screws to complete some old 700 series spinners -- I have quite a few for 700 -- 716, and up through I believe 722s.

Just let me know.

Best,

Fred

Fred, you're amazing, always willing to help. I thank you, but for now I do not need them. If priced right, I usually grab discontinued parts whenever I get a chance. Thank you Fred.
Sal

Quote from: El Pescador on October 20, 2014, 02:42:14 AM
Sal,

I too wonder what caused this chemical reaction?  Was it the mix of chrome, steel & aluminum parts??
My two years of chemistry in college in no way makes me a specalist in chemical reaction, but I will contact Simple Green & ask their R&D dept. for ideas.

Can you sort out the chrome, steel & AL parts for closer inspection photos??

The soaking basket looks to be aluminum, not stainless steel.  In fact, it looks like the colander my Mother used for drain pasta (or spagetti) as us Northern Italians called it!!!!

Back with some answers after speaking with SG.
Wayne

Wayne, I believe you hit the nail on the head, I've mentioned a while back that I do not mix brass with chrome when soaking for a day or two, I was getting black marks on the brass, I didn't think it would have mattered with the screws.
Again, if you soak the parts for 12 hours or so, as I did today, it won't matter mixing them. This batch came out nice and clean.
The problem isn't with Simple Green, I love that stuff, the problem was from me leaving the parts for almost two weeks, I'm sure I'll probably do it again ::). Maybe I'll install an alarm ;D, I'm always soaking parts.
By the way, I do not add water to the Simple Green, I use it straight out of the gallon.
The screws were brass, aluminum and plastic. The thick screws got the most damage, those are from the early reels. The plastic screws couldn't give a reaction, but the chrome would. The flatter screws show no sign of damage :-\.
Sal

Over the years, I have discovered that the aluminum will cause this reaction -- and the brass will also.  

Generally the chromed over brass will be OK.

SS is never a problem.

But here is what I do differently -- I use a good ultrasonic cleaner -- reservoir filled with water -- 2 wide mouthed plastic canisters -- one with Simple Green, one with Purple HD Degreaser -- both cut 50% with water.

I use a HD L&R ultrasonic cleaner with a good size reservoir, good electronics, all SS, professional grade for Dentists and Doctors.  These can be bought for around $100 to $250 -- regularly on eBay.  No Heater.

All brass, chromed over brass, SS, or steel -- goes in the purple.

All aluminum, plastic, pot metal, basically any other at risk metals goes in the Simple Green.

No heat, set timer for 6 minutes -- if really badly impacted with grease, go 12 minutes.

Pour all of the parts into a strainer like a pasta colander.  Recycle the solutions back into each original container.  I generally get 10-12 reels cleaned before needing to change out the solutions.  No use wasting $$$.

Soak and rinse in water all parts -- remove the parts to dry on a paper towel -- and you are done.

They come out shiny, clean, and every crevice is completely free of any debris.

Painted parts can be done this same way, in the Green -- but this is where care and experience come in.

Be careful, you might lose some paint.  If in doubt, just spray with Simple Green and use a brush on these painted parts.

After awhile, you will know which metals work with which cleaners.

I have done too many old Mitchell's with aluminum cranks, baffle plates, soft nuts and cross wind blocks.  

This is a quick, effective, and lazy way to clean reels.  And I can do an entire disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, grease, oil, torque, and adjustments to nearly any Penn, Mitchell, Quick, Daiwa, Shimano, Abu, or Cardinal in about an easy 45 to 50 minutes.  Internationals, Accurates, Avets, high tech spinners, and rear drag spinners take about twice the time for me.  But this is a complete strip down -- not a partial.  And this includes a cup of coffee, and a break while letting the parts clean.

I never mix up more than one reel in the same cleaning batch.  Just one at a time -- no mistakes or confusion that way -- at least for me.

Best,

Fred

Hey handi2, just got done soaking a Black Penn 6/0 spool yesterday in vinegar and baking soda. It works great but DON'T leave in for 24hrs. it'll ruin it. I just do 1-2hrs then I wash them with fresh water and Dawn dish soap and they look great. P.S. DON'T tell my wife I used the kitchen sink, she'll kill me.          Richy

It was someone else who left the parts in overnight. He be brought the main gear and crosswind gear in to me to order new parts. The crosswind gear was unrecognizable..!!

Simple Green's head of R&D Dept. just called me, answering my questions on the issue Sal brought up re: the AL parts corroding to the point of not being useful.

Here is her answer:


A Cut & Paste from the website: 
When used with caution and according to the instructions, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum.
Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, Crystal Simple Green Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser, and Simple Green Pressure Washer Concentrates have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years.

However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water.


The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process.


Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes.


Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green product residues.


Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner, Pro Series Simple Green Automotive Cleaner, and Simple Green Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively. These products were initially developed for the aircraft industry and extensive testing shows that they are safe and effective on a variety of metals and other sensitive surfaces even in the most extreme circumstances.

Simple Green Stainless Steel One Step Cleaner & Polish is another option for cleaning polished aluminum. This product is designed for light duty metal cleaning and polishing.



Her suggestion if we want to soak AL parts, use Simple Green PRO HD  -  It contains a corrosion inhibitor  -  Soak for as long as you want!!!!      Available at Home Depot.

And she reminded me to always clean up the parts in fresh water to rinse off any Simple Green.

IT's just that simple!!



Wayne

Hey Wayne you left out the rest of the information...And to conclude your tip of the day I offer the following: 

Aluminum is a chemical element in the boron group with symbol Al and atomic number 13. It is a silvery white, soft, ductile metal. Aluminum is the third most abundant element, and the most abundant metal in the Earth's crust.
Symbol: Al

Atomic number: 13

Melting point: 1,221°F (660.3°C)

Electron configuration: [Ne] 3s2 3p1

Atomic mass: 26.981539 ± 0.0000008 u

Discoverer: Hans Christian Ørsted

Chemical series: Metal, Post-transition metal, Period 3 element, Boron group, Metalloid, Heavy metal    Dominick

Quote from: Dominick on October 24, 2014, 07:13:43 PM
Hey Wayne you left out the rest of the information...And to conclude your tip of the day I offer the following: 

Aluminum is a chemical element in the boron group with symbol Al and atomic number 13. It is a silvery white, soft, ductile metal. Aluminum is the third most abundant element, and the most abundant metal in the Earth's crust.
Symbol: Al

Atomic number: 13

Melting point: 1,221°F (660.3°C)

Electron configuration: [Ne] 3s2 3p1

Atomic mass: 26.981539 ± 0.0000008 u

Discoverer: Hans Christian Ørsted

Chemical series: Metal, Post-transition metal, Period 3 element, Boron group, Metalloid, Heavy metal    Dominick

To all you AT.com readers out there,

this is why I'll be at Dominick's tonight to supervise his use of a knife for pumpkin carving, while we enjoy Game 3 of the World Series!  Go Giants!

Wayne

Quote from: El Pescador on October 24, 2014, 07:52:06 PM

To all you AT.com readers out there,

this is why I'll be at Dominick's tonight to supervise his use of a knife for pumpkin carving, while we enjoy Game 3 of the World Series!  Go Giants!

Wayne

:D...I don't blame you Wayne. ;D

Thanks for checking in on the Simple Green.
I believe that mine is the Simple Green Pro HD :-\.

Sal

Deres nuffin wrong wit Zin and carfing pumpkinsh.  Dombinink

Quote from: Dominick on October 24, 2014, 07:13:43 PM
Hey Wayne you left out the rest of the information...And to conclude your tip of the day I offer the following:  

Aluminum is a chemical element in the boron group with symbol Al and atomic number 13. It is a silvery white, soft, ductile metal. Aluminum is the third most abundant element, and the most abundant metal in the Earth's crust.
Symbol: Al

Atomic number: 13

Melting point: 1,221°F (660.3°C)

Electron configuration: [Ne] 3s2 3p1

Atomic mass: 26.981539 ± 0.0000008 u

Discoverer: Hans Christian Ørsted

Chemical series: Metal, Post-transition metal, Period 3 element, Boron group, Metalloid, Heavy metal    Dominick

More important to our applications would be the Nobility Scale, notice that aluminum alloy is the 5th most
"active" and it tends to go away when exposed to a active environment.

(http://www.nstcenter.biz/writeImages/NavyCommunityAppExtShipCathodicProtection2.gif)

Oh, that explains why I couldn't find my aluminum Mitchell parts after soaking them for a couple of weeks in a tub of purple degreaser!

😄😄😄

Fred

Fred

I have some left over parts for a Mitchell 306 if you need them. My 3 reels are in retirement in a tote. I cleaned my reels with WD-40 soak.

Mike

One trick I have learned is to rub chrome parts with aluminum foil.  Dip the foil in water then rub.

Thanks, Mike --

But I don't need them at this point -- got plenty.

Appreciate the offer -- at some point, I will need something -- for now I'm good...

Best,

Fred

Quote from: El Pescador on October 24, 2014, 05:16:22 PM
Simple Green's head of R&D Dept. just called me, answering my questions on the issue Sal brought up re: the AL parts corroding to the point of not being useful.

Here is her answer:


A Cut & Paste from the website: 
When used with caution and according to the instructions, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner has been safely and successfully used to clean aluminum.
Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner, Crystal Simple Green Industrial Cleaner & Degreaser, and Simple Green Pressure Washer Concentrates have been used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years.

However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water.
The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process.

Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.

The science here is not quite right
electrolisis not Corrosion
Oxidation of aluminium is what makes it the wonderfull stuff it is
two different metals and a liquid and you will get metal loss in ali as it will be the sacrificial anode for all metals except Zinc
I am no scientist though
best Jon

This is for Alan...

Find Joy in everything that you do.  lol

Quote from: jonnou on October 28, 2014, 04:54:56 AM

I am no scientist though
best Jon

You don't need to be a scientist to understand how metals react in an active environment and it sounds like you have a good handle on it.  Aluminum is a good material in some applications, not so good in others.  Pure aluminum oxidizes rapidly.

i had my tld5 perfect,then along comes rothmar2 and double dogs it
not to make it stronger,not necessary, but to cut the back play in half
so i did,but, in the process i lost the pin off the shaft,goes in left side plate
what to do, cut a ss rivet,which i did.
better fit than the original

the boss"how is it"
smart "A." close enough.
b "i want it perfect"
s a "it is perfect"
b."well thats  close enough"
cheers

Perfect in a fishing reel,  seems to be until you know more!   gst.

And Another Tip;   Almost every body knows but seems inconvenient is to keep some stiff grease in a small container handy and dab a little on the screwdriver or torx end and insert screw on tip..... It wont fall off in any position,   even if you sneeze!           gst.

At times it isn't easy finding the correct size cutter, especially if you need 1 1/2" OD. If you have a press, you'll probably get away by getting a little creative.
here is what I did:
(https://i.imgur.com/0E6Zmqk.jpg)
cutter is made from a piece of a faucet that I replaced, I used a dremel to sharpen the edge. you could use a pipe or anything else that you could think of, this one is brass, once you sharpen it, it doesn't take much to hit it again with a dremel every once in a while
The new Acetal/Delrin washer is the same size as the stock washer from Penn
and a perfect fit
(https://i.imgur.com/w0XOB72.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SHLAqfI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/V9Zkz5p.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fUh5HJG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1mJIsSm.jpg)
I hope it is useful for some.

Sal

Nice Sal! You are a true craftsman. Work with what ya got and make it work for you. Thanks for posting.
Bob

Thanks Bob! Yes, it is working out, I made these within 5 minutes and never sharpened the cutter
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/003_15.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/003_15.jpg.html)
I do want to mention that the press needs to be bolted and if you set it at 30" in height, that would be best.
The wider washers require more force to cut, having the press at around 30" makes it much easier to apply pressure
Also, as mentioned earlier, you will need an extension for the handle and some type of material that the cutter gets stuck into it when cutting. I use a cutting board, wood will not do.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/002_9.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/002_9.jpg.html)
All fit very nicely
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/005_10.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/005_10.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/004_15.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/004_15.jpg.html)
These are the .031" Acetal washers

Sal

The punch cut ones look better than the water jet cut ones.

Thats what we Kiwis call #8 wire technology ;)

Great work Sal! I'm going to have to pick me up one of those presses and some old faucet parts and stop punching mine with a Hammer. ;D
I recognize that Bridge along with the Buzzsaw ratchet on that sleeve. ;D

Great....so I go into Northern Tool for a $10 tarp and come out with $150 worth of bearing grease, fittings, files, picks, dremel attachments, polishing discs, etc. and no tarp. And I was looking for a belt sander like Sal's, now I gots to find an arbor press too....

Yes the press is the right way to punch washers, but a large bench vise and a third hand can do pretty good as long as you arent doing many washers.  almost everybody has one of those cluttering up their workbench!!!!  from a joe homeowner to another.   gst.

Quote from: gstours on April 02, 2015, 06:22:07 AM
Yes the press is the right way to punch washers, but a large bench vise and a third hand can do pretty good as long as you arent doing many washers.  almost everybody has one of those cluttering up their workbench!!!!  from a joe homeowner to another.   gst.

Funny, I admit I've used a vice and heat to press parts.  I gotta get a press though for all the old corroded parts I press, namely cam housings on Old Internationals, and such.  Shipping is crazy out here, and I can't seem to locate a used one locally.  I refuse to pay double what the product is worth to ship it. 

Yep, have the vise for my vice LOL. I THOUGHT I had a couple hundred reels in great working order til I joined this site.....now it's crystal clear I will spend the next five years changing drags, frames, handles, drag sleeves, SS screws, yokes, gears, sideplates, SS bridges and clamps. Not to mention I'll have to rewrap a very large stand of sticks to match the revamped motors....I should be free to actually go fishing by 2020. Maybe.

Then it will become apparent that every reel I built will need to be narrowed.....And that I don't have enough Newells....or Everol's...or ice blue Accuplates....or a  green 6500C3CT....

5-40 Socket Head screws are not easy to find in 1/8 length, McMasters-Carr only carries 1/4
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/002_14.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/002_14.jpg.html)
Here is what I do to bring them to size, I scew them in an old handle
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/004_18.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/004_18.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/004_18.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/004_18.jpg.html)
I was using a belt sander, but this vintage grinding wheel does a much better job, quieter and faster
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/013_12.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/013_12.jpg.html)
cranking the handle 10 times and you're done
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/009_8.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/009_8.jpg.html)
I did about three dozen in 10 minutes...not bad
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/012_6.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/012_6.jpg.html)

Sal

Clever tip, Sal --

Thanks,

Fred

If you do a lot of cutting off screws, something like this may be worth the money.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/heavyRivetCutter.php

The screws(or solid rivets) drop into the holes, and are sheared clean off. There is a stack of shims that you use to set the length. You will still need to dress the end of the screw after cutting.

Quote from: Reel 224 on April 08, 2015, 07:50:53 PM
I have a similar tool for cutting screws of milder steel...but when it comes to hardened screws or SS screws, it doesn't work that well, unless you have Bear claws for hands.

I agree Joe, I tried one and had to use the press to snap it and I'm tough ;D

Good to know.  Ive used them on steel rivets before, so I figured they would cut most screws fine.

Its a good tool, I use it to cut screws for cabinets, but these 316 ss screws are tough.

how about the cut-off disc using a dremel?  i use mine constantly for cutting metal

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DREMEL-EZ-LOCK-METAL-CUTTING-WHEEL-SIZE-1-1-2-6-DISC-CUT-OFF-TOOL-NEW-/331376995006?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d279baabe

Quote from: harryk3616 on April 08, 2015, 10:05:12 PM
how about the cut-off disc using a dremel?  i use mine constantly for cutting metal

Same situation Harry, I don't have much luck with those on stainless steel screws. It kmight be just me :-\
By the way, your stainless steel basket comes handy with small parts, thanks again my friend ;)

yeah sal, that basket was a great find and it fit in my glass wash basin perfect, i'm glad you liked it my friend. i let the parts soak awhile then i take one of those acid wash brushes and stir the parts around cleaning them just fine. i use wd40 as my cleaner, i buy the gallon cans at home depot, works for me, i also scrub the sideplates with a small nylon brush dipped in the wd40, got the brushes at home depot also,wipe them dry and then hit them with the air hose, they  come out nice.  got the basket from ebay under jewlery cleaning baskets

I use a steel bill holder mesh basket I purchased from 'Orgainize This', and a few different sized strainers to hold parts in the Ultrasonic cleaner.  I have been eyeing the basket from my new deep fryer.  Looks like these would work well too.

If you ever had screws stored in a container with the movable dividers and found them all mixed up, you could try this
http://i.imgur.com/2hGwN2X.jpg
a small bead of hot glue will keep them in place
http://i.imgur.com/84j7ZN7.jpg
While you at it, place a small bead of glue on the latches and hinges , this will make them much stronger
http://i.imgur.com/BhWNnLl.jpg
I realize that these boxes are already out there with welded seams, but most are not of the correct size that I would want and they're usually $20 each. These were $3 at Harbor Freight
http://i.imgur.com/puvW8MF.jpg
Sal

i'm on the same page as you sal ,glue gun trick works well.  picked up the harbor freight plastic bins when they were on sale awhile ago before my trouble.  craft stores also carry them, like michaels or joannes, gotta get them when they go on sale.  have a nice weekend my friend

That's a great idea Sal.  For those of us without a glue gun, I'll bet silicone caulk would also work for this.

I have been using Goop Contact Cement from Home Depot

Mike

If you ever see the Shimano tackle trays on sale they have a radius on the bottom edges of the individual compartments. I have some of the small ones about 12x8 and it's very easy to get the screws out with the smooth sided compartments.

I use wire ties with screw downs that I get at Home Depot as hook keepers on my rods. I put them at the top of the reel seats.  They work great!

(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/04/04872070-b4b8-4494-ae7f-cad1fe388f7b_400.jpg)

Quote from: MarkT on September 06, 2015, 05:57:01 PM
I use wire ties with screw downs that I get at Home Depot as hook keepers on my rods. I put them at the top of the reel seats.  They work great!

(http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/04/04872070-b4b8-4494-ae7f-cad1fe388f7b_400.jpg)

this tip is really good, I will look for those on my next visit to home depot

I have also used regular wire ties without the screwdown, and just ran the wire tie through a small silicone O-ring.

Quote from: MeL B on September 09, 2015, 01:52:39 PM
for "GREASERS" only

how to prevent CF dust when cutting to size, apply CAL's and clean after by wiping washing or blowing if you have an air compressor or DUSTER. and you don't have to grease them afterwards.  :)

and this comes when Im about to cut some for the Keta´s octagon inserts for 112h and 113h

great tip

Quote from: MeL B on September 09, 2015, 01:52:39 PM
for "GREASERS" only

how to prevent CF dust when cutting to size, apply CAL's and clean after by wiping washing or blowing if you have an air compressor or DUSTER. and you don't have to grease them afterwards.  :)

Good one!...thanks for the tip, carbon dust that gets attached won't hurt there ;)

I didnt understood the last pic-tip

Good Tip      BUT

Not all houses or apartments have Toilet Bowls with Tanks. Some of us have Flushometers.

Mike

Wouldn't a bucket under the sink do the same thing?

I don't know about your water but mine has so much chlorine in it that you can smell it across the kitchen. Removing the line to clean it is to much of a hassle. I would rather rinse it with a hose & replace it as needed. I haven't had a problem yet. Out in the Florida sun day after day washing it off the reel isn't worth the time. I just replace it as needed with new line or new top shot. It doesn't get all wet anyway like it would in the toilet. You could dunk it in a bucket of distilled water & agitate it a couple of times a day. The dirt will settle to the bottom before you have to dunk it again. To each his own way.

Quote from: MeL B on September 25, 2015, 10:10:06 PM

Quote from: bluefish69 on September 25, 2015, 06:32:47 PM
Good Tip      BUT

Not all houses or apartments have Toilet Bowls with Tanks. Some of us have Flushometers.

Mike

Then why quote it?

no comment...

Quote from: Rancanfish on September 25, 2015, 11:41:33 PM

Quote from: MeL B on September 25, 2015, 10:10:06 PM

Quote from: bluefish69 on September 25, 2015, 06:32:47 PM
Good Tip      BUT

Not all houses or apartments have Toilet Bowls with Tanks. Some of us have Flushometers.

Mike

Because the idea has a lot of holes in it.

Then why quote it?

no comment...

trying to figure out what's going on here :-\.

Mel

What did I do this time???  I gave a honest answer to the idea. I am a retired Plumber with 51 yrs. in the Plumber's Union.

Mike

I wrap bicycle inner tube on all my rod grips.
Split it down the middle and wrap.

Very inexpensive
Lasts for years
Does not leave residue on the foam
Stays grippy in wet weather

Good tip Rocky, thanks for sharing.

I found out one day after falling through a plastic chained off concert barrier ;) that plastic chain can be used as a breakaway.

Cut the links with a box cutter as shown.
Add a rubber band for adjustable tension.

It will snap off very smoothly and does not snag or wear out.

I use them for DIY downriggers, outriggers & tool holders.

A nail clipper on the breakaway link, the other through a button hole or belt loop works great.

I now always keep a foot of plastic chain in my tackle.
(http://s19.postimg.org/yiaykz3cj/clip.jpg)

(http://s19.postimg.org/5igk4zkqb/WP_20150926_002.jpg)

Yes, that would do it Rocky. Keep your ideas coming.

I use wax to coat oar locks and such.

I feel it does a better job than grease for this purpose.
I lasts a very long time.

I also stick my hooks in the block after sharpening.

The best part is that I get it from a $2 dollar toilet bowl ring  ;)
(http://www.oatey.com/img/subcategory/31190_HD_Wax_Ring.jpg)

When replacing wipers, keep the ss blades and put them to good use. Mine were .75mm in thickness, I took those down to .40mm and I believe that's just about the right tension. Those make good dogs for the larger Senators.
A belt sander does a good job on thinning them down, but you could use whatever works for you.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/014_21.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/014_21.jpg.html)
This isn't one of my ideas, it came from a good friend, Bob (Cone), he mentioned it a while back.
Today I replaced the wipers and thought about it.
Your blades might be thicker, again sanding them down to around .45mm gives it a good tension.
Thanks Bob!

Sal

That's a good one Sal. I Will definitely use it.

Excellent

Here's what I've done to hold line counter reels erect. Cut a space in a spray paint can cap. You can also snug it up with an elastic when working on it. Gives you that third hand you need sometimes.

Larry

Good tip Larry, I could see how that would help.
Sal

I replaced my wipers this past weekend and the wal mart brand. I think it is called supertech has two strips of stainless on either side of the wiper that are the perfect width for big senator dog springs.
(http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm11/ddyer2/IMG_3227_zps8sm7mzep.jpg) (http://s292.photobucket.com/user/ddyer2/media/IMG_3227_zps8sm7mzep.jpg.html)

(http://s12.postimg.org/ijnghn6xp/inject.jpg)
SHARKIN BAIT TIP

I buy crude menhaden from a feed company.
It has way more fat content than the thinned down stuff you get in the stores.

I use an injection needle to fill my baits with oil.
This is a stainless version I picked up at HD.
Wal-Mart has a cheaper plastic version which also works.

Many times my shark bait is the only one hit out of the group.
It leaves a fine slick. Especially when the wind is blowing offshore.
The wintertime Dusky love it!

Quote from: Alto Mare on October 19, 2014, 10:13:32 PM
Yep! I could still use them, but the nice chrome is gone.
Sal

The perfect application for brush chrome plating. I know this is an old thread, but if you still have these packed away I could make them more sparkly....

Sid

I bought these mesh holders from Amazon. They are 1 1/2" in size. As I'm taking a reel apart with tiny parts, springs, screws, that need to be cleaned these things work great. It's spring loaded so I open it and drop the parts in and it's closes itself. Very useful with small reels like bait casters.

One part that always goes in are the cast control knobs that are always dirty. I drop the mesh holder in the ultrasonic cleaner and let it do its thing.

Quote from: handi2 on April 15, 2016, 12:14:18 AM
I bought these mesh holders from Amazon. They are 1 1/2" in size. As I'm taking a reel apart with tiny parts, springs, screws, that need to be cleaned these things work great. It's spring loaded so I open it and drop the parts in and it's closes itself. Very useful with small reels like bait casters.

One part that always goes in are the cast control knobs that are always dirty. I drop the mesh holder in the ultrasonic cleaner and let it do its thing.

Good idea  8)

Marc..

Great Idea Keith. I need to get one of those cleaners.

HDPE (No. 2 recycling symbol) containers can be re-purposed as a bucket--for those of you who degrease reel parts using Simple Green or WD-40.

I use empty cat litter containers; simply lop the top off, drill two holes at each end, and attach a length of nylon cord for a handle.

Good idea to check HDPE's compatibility first, if using a stronger solvent.

Chad

The mesh balls are made for loose Tea. Ask the Wife she might have one already. I use them for spices when making soup, fill them & never have the spices floating in your soup again.

Mike

Great idea! And quite reasonably priced...  http://www.amazon.com/Grip-EZ-Tea-Infuser-with-Cup/dp/B000SSU8Z6/ref=pd_sim_79_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=515aQZ9DRIL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QC76KDY04CD717X281H   :)

~A~

Great idea guys, you could clean parts and have soup at the same time ;D...good stuff!

Hmm, funny -- doesn't taste like Miso Soup.

I have used those for years for small parts in the US cleaner -- they are quick, efficient, and just rinse out with fresh water -- dump on a paper towel -- clean and done.

Best,

Fred

Not much of a machinist, but I'm always trying to find a better way to get things done.
partially removing threads on screws has been hard for me, I was using a file and drill press. I experimented with different speed and cutting oil, but still took a while.
Here I decided to use my drill press and a dremel, both spinning at the same time. The diamond coated wheel is only a couple of bucks and lasts for a while.
These usually take 20 seconds to do, it took me a little longer here because I was using one hand and taping with my cell.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/th_20160704_231715.mp4) (http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20160704_231715.mp4)
I'll post it, just in case it might be interested to some.
Sorry, it's bouncing all over the place, not easy holding the tool and phone at the same time.

Sal

Really clever, Sal --

Good technique -- thanks for the video --

Best,

Fred

Great ideas keep showing up.  Wow, I have to read all 10 pages again.

The master is a genius.  Dominick

Very clever,

This kind of a small thing --

But at least for me, useful...

Today is sorting and organizing a bunch of small Mitchell parts into envelopes -- day.

Wife came up to the shop and asked if I could use these jars -- they will be great for solvents, greases, soaking in mineral spirits, etc.

They are a type of bouillon substitute we use for a lunch with a sandwich or crackers.

Perfect size jars -- wide mouth -- 3.5" wide -- 3.75" tall -- good metal lid with a gasket.

Best,

Fred

Fred, if they are glass you can run into a problem if you shake them a little with metal parts in them. Been there, done that, and had the bottoms fall out. What a mess. Plastic is better. The glass jars are better for storing screws, washers, & nuts. Screw the lid to the bottom of a shelf & screw the jar on. No lid to lose & easy to see what's in the jar.    Rudy

These will be used for solvent soaking prior to Ultrasonic cleaning, Rudy.

Agree with the breakage issue -- just do not shake them too hard -- let the solvents do their work.

As for small screws and parts -- got way too many for jars -- they all go in plastic bins or categorized parts envelopes in cupboards -- by part number.

I too, have broken jars on 2 occasions -- try not to do that as much anymore.

Thanks,

Fred

Good advice from both from both of you, Fred and Rudy.

I just picked up this hollow punch set, it is used, but got it at a ridiculous price. The set is a MayHew #66002, it usually runs close to $400 new.
Dwight, you were right all along when you kept telling me how great these sets are, making washers takes very little effort now, I love it.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_084959.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_084959.jpg.html)
These cutters are meant to be hit with a hammer, I rather use them on a 1 ton press, it makes it much easier on you and the tool.
If you wanted to do the same, the handle on the mandrel needs to be cut so in could fit on the press
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085109.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085109.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085227.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085227.jpg.html)
You will need a 16" to 20" steel pipe as an extension on the press arm or it won't work, especially if punching Delrin.
The pipe makes it very easy to use.
I also use a piece of plastic cutting board at the bottom, so the cutters don't get damaged.

Also, if you wanted to, you could drill and tap the center of the mandrel, so you could mount it on a drill press, this helps with sharpening the cutters. I'm sure there is other ways, but this is working for me
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085254.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085254.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085333.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085333.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085410.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085410.jpg.html)
The mandrel will vibrate a little as it spins, but having it set at low speed and applying the right amount of pressure, it will work.
I used 1000 grit to sharpen the tips and worked nicely
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085458.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085458.jpg.html)
These were in rough shape when I got them, I cleaned and sharpened all of them.
Here is a shot of the edge of the cleaned cutter...not bad
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_085651.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_085651.jpg.html)
All cutters are now nice and sharp, I also coated them with a couple of drops of TSI 301 for protection.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/tools/20160709_084948.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/tools/20160709_084948.jpg.html)

A new mandrel costs over $100, I understand if you didn't want to go for it, I just wanted to put it out there, just in case.
A 1 ton press could be purchased for under $50 at the right time. To me, using a press would be the only way.
Keep an eye out on line, you might get lucky finding one as I did, these are made very nicely and should last a long time.
Sal

Sal, I use the same arrangement :) I added a magnet to the press shaft to secure the punch arbor. It just makes it easier.

Chris, I could see how the magnet would come handy when cutting washers, but not so much for chucking the mandrel to a drill press to make it rotate, still a great idea though.

For sharpening I use my mini lathe with a Dremel mounted to the cross slide - I can clamp the Dremel at a very precise angle ;)

Yup, that would be perfect! You are better equipped than me, I got rid of my mini lathe :-\.
Somehow I still manage to get around it, not easy, but get it done.

Darn it Sal, ???  I was planning on buying a house close by so I  could ''borrow'' your lathe occasionally! :'(  ha h! :D

Gary, you can borrow anything I have that might interest you, I'll send it over or personally deliver it ;)

I think I have to buy a press.  I've been hammering and it literally makes a mess of carbon dust when cutting drag washers.

I have a few that I have to polish up as well as they are getting dull. 

Brian, An arbor press is so much easier ;)

 My tip of the day doesn't require any fabrication...only a bit of common sense...something I must be lacking. :-\

After scratching several handles with those cheezy Penn stamped wrenches, I realized all I needed to do was put it on the nut "sharp" side up, so that it doesn't scratch the handle as you tighten!  ::)

I've since filed and buffed them all smooth...lesson learned.  8)

If any of you are fortunate enough to have one of these old library system card organizers -- these little jars work great for small parts.

I use peanut butter or jelly jars -- other jars would work too.

Can get (5) jars in each pull out drawer --

60 drawers equals 300 jars per organizer.

This would also work good for any type of drawers.

There are many possible variations just by using your imagination -- and knowing what would work for your style.

Main thing is quick and easy visibility, labeling -- and returning the jar to the drawer.

Best,

Fred

Great idea Fred, those might work on mine as well. By the way, everyone that has seen my library cabinets want one. :)

Oldtimers have taught me more than a few simple and good techniques -- just got to listen to them...

As an example --

When reassembling a reel -- particularly when a screw is going into aluminum, graphite, or heaven forbid -- plastic...lightly grease the screw so it can be removed easily at some future point -- then turn the screw backwards about 1/2 to 2 rotations -- until you "feel" it click into proper alignment -- then just go ahead and snug it up.

This prevents stripped threads, saves time, and having to rethread or substitute an oversize screw.

Works with all screws -- machine screws, or even cheap zinc phillips going into graphite.

Plus, on some expensive reels with "blind" screw holes -- be cautious when applying too much grease to the screw holes -- hydraulic pressure could crack or blow out the hole

Best,

Fred

Quote from: foakes on July 30, 2016, 08:02:20 PM
Oldtimers have taught me more than a few simple and good techniques -- just got to listen to them...

As an example --

When reassembling a reel -- particularly when a screw is going into aluminum, graphite, or heaven forbid -- plastic...lightly grease the screw so it can be removed easily at some future point -- then turn the screw backwards about 1/2 to 2 rotations -- until you "feel" it click into proper alignment -- then just go ahead and snug it up.

This prevents stripped threads, saves time, and having to rethread or substitute an oversize screw.

Works with all screws -- machine screws, or even cheap zinc phillips going into graphite.

Plus, on some expensive reels with "blind" screw holes -- be cautious when applying too much grease to the screw holes -- hydraulic pressure could crack or blow out the hole

Best,

Fred

Great tip Fred!   I always screw into threads with that technique. Back in until it clicks....  no cross threading.

I'm going to better with grease from now on too.

Steve

My technique as well Fred. The only thing I do differently is to apply grease to the threads of the screw (not to the very tip). This should reduce the possibility of hydraulic lock ;)

Quote from: Tiddlerbasher on July 31, 2016, 08:40:28 AM
My technique as well Fred. The only thing I do differently is to apply grease to the threads of the screw (not to the very tip). This should reduce the possibility of hydraulic lock ;)

yep, I also grease the threads of the screw with the same acid brush I used to grase the rest of the reel..just enough to "paint it"

Not easy holding the inner race on tiny roller bearings to check them, next time try a chopstick :)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/pescatore1005/20160827_070651.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/pescatore1005/20160827_070651.jpg.html)
You could also hold them upside down, for cleaning and oiling.
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/pescatore1005/20160827_070625.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/pescatore1005/20160827_070625.jpg.html)
Chopsticks will also hold larger size bearings. Try it, I use mine often.

Sal

I use porcupine quills (the big African/Asian ones) as bearing holders, no-scratch picks (for reels & line), and float stems

I use the disposable chop sticks and bamboo skewers (like for grilling).  The skewers are good no-scratch picks for cleaning too.
-steve

I use a big soupspoon, ;)  fill it about half full with the bearing in it, swirl untill it spills all over the counter,  then you know your really Done!! :P   

I'm going to run over to Walmart and see if they have a bag of those African porcupine quills!

How to apply CorrosionX HD to non-spool bearings et al. Spray into a plastic or glass vial and dunk bearings or wipe using a soft cloth onto reel surfaces. Here's a sample;

BX-500N pinion bearing
(http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv31/flipmlb/ATcom/78c66aa0-81c9-4ba5-8fb9-cb5237198d64_zps2boci1ko.jpg) (http://s667.photobucket.com/user/flipmlb/media/ATcom/78c66aa0-81c9-4ba5-8fb9-cb5237198d64_zps2boci1ko.jpg.html)

Pardon me if this has been posted earlier.

tight lines!

Mini- ultrasonic cleaner. While soaking bearings for cleaning, I stick the bristle end of a battery operated toothbrush in the bowl of solution. Bam! Works like a little ultrasonic cleaner.

we had large screws, on the shearing hand peices, to hold the combs on with, the screw drivers were made in a right angle with a nice wide blade also a narrow blade, you could get heeps of perchace on them very rarely slipped, ideal, cheers donnyboat.

Tired a cotton swab hairs? These are actually cleanable for reuse.
Gfish

I use those q-tips too for applying grease, etc. They last a very long time.
Still use regular q-tips for cleaning though.

Grinding plates really make a lot of dust, I usually do it outdoors, but taking my tools out gets to be a pain.
I do not have a dust collector system in my little workshop, but attaching a vacuum hose to a vise really helps keeping the dust down.
No more need to go out in the cold, or carry the tools outside:
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20170218_210112.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20170218_210112.jpg.html)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/pescatore1/20170218_205931.jpg) (http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/pescatore1/media/20170218_205931.jpg.html)

Sal

Sal; do you use dental bits in your mini tool to grind with? I see that little vice is coming in handy  ;) ;D That is a good use for the vacuum nozzle.

Joe 

I can't answer for Sal but I use dental bits for grinding. They cut bakelite like butter and can be really precise. I don't know where to get them though...I inherited mine from my Grampa (and he wasn't a dentist).
-Mike

I inherited mine from my friend and dental hygienist who was told by her boss to clean this place up and get rid of that old worn out crap.  They're all tiny though so I use the dremel/jeweler/hardware store stuff for most things.
-steve

Quote from: Reel 224 on February 20, 2017, 03:25:31 AM
Sal; do you use dental bits in your mini tool to grind with? I see that little vice is coming in handy  ;) ;D That is a good use for the vacuum nozzle.

Joe 

This is the set I've been using for over 3 years and they're still doing good:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130885906276?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Don't go testing if they'll cut you or not, but if these touch your hand while using, you should be ok.

I have spent lots of money on rotary tools, H F power tools are worthless. Dremels are ok, but only for light work, if you use them often, they will eventually fail...as mine did.
Here is the tool that I've been using, love it!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOREDOM-2230-Jeweler-Rotory-Tool-Kit-/262023623986?hash=item3d01d33532:g:C~IAAOSwu4BV3390
This isn't where i purchased mine, I believe I spent $200 for mine, but didn't have everything needed.
If you shop around you could find good deals, the one I'm showing includes everything andcomes with free shipping, I call it a good deal.
Be careful if you are looking for one, there are some that look appealing at $185, but have the hand piece missing or shaft. The had piece alone will set you back $65.

The vise is working out great, but only for light stuff, I use my 5 1/2 Crafstman when I really need to hold down a piece.


Sal

"Tanizing". Found that inna marine environment things such as my headlamps will last longer before contact corrosion occures, with some marine grease. Especially on any seals. Got some automotive " di-electric" grease for spark plugs, would that also work? Havin a heck ofa time with my phone-charge receptical corroding livin on a smaller Island where all unprotected metal eventually gets that patina(spelling?)on it.
Gfish

Sal: Thanks, I have everything except those particular cutters.I use my vice for most of me small work and like you I also have an heaver vice. I haven't tried using the small vice for the vacuum hose yet. ;) ;D

Joe 

That's the same foredom my son has.  Mine is old and on its last legs.  The kid says I should try the diamond impregnated bits he uses for etching glass.  But, he's across the ocean and I'm a cheapskate. 

I was having trouble with my phone charger and someone said to take a needle and pick the lint out of the charging socket.  It was amazing how much stuff came out of such a small space.  You can also replace the charging port.  Sounds scary but there are plenty of instructions on line it's less complicated than working on a shimano.
-steve

I use a lot of grease when assembling and normally end up with a moderate coat over the whole reel.  A micro fiber rag removes most, polishes and leaves a thin film on the outside. 

Plastic acorn nuts(Ace hardware) to keep the end threads safe. Long Beach 259.Gfish

When a friend gives you a bunch of old reels, 1) don't tell your wife; 2) hide them; 3) they all don't need to be fixed. Some are just as good as Parts reels; 4) hide the fixed reels from your wife until you find a new owner (kid).  5) of the reels you do fix and give to a kid, it's a good idea to have a few other parts reels to cannibalizes from when that sand/salt filled reels comes back to you for repair 😁.

And lastly, find some rods to go with the reel because a reel without a rod is just a paperweight.

This is for amateurs as myself and not for the pros.
If you are going to attempt doing a double dog on these larger Senators and have limited tools, but do have a drill press, try it along with a set of wood clamps
(https://i.imgur.com/qXbt6gF.jpg)
You can set the ring on the plate in the clamp with vary little pressure, don't worry, the ring will not get deformed, I did many.
You will then maneuver the clamp to the bit and it will come out as it has been done on a milling machine
(https://i.imgur.com/jZ3idSa.jpg)
I was using a standard length dog and a shorter dog on these 12/0's, I now like to use the same length dogs, but the dogs need to be shaped as I did here so you'll have the best contact with the gear ratchet
(https://i.imgur.com/tWjMEgK.jpg)
Oh, springs are titanium, I still have a small piece left, a gift from Gary a long time ago...thanks again Gary.
Just in case someone else wanted to give it a shot, to me this is the best set up.

Sal

Thanks Sal for the mention.  If anyone including you Sal wants some PCs of .025 titanium sheet.  I'd be glad to share.  It's heat treated and quite springy but can be cut with good tin snips and filed or ground.   
   Grinding is fun as titanium makes white sparks, not yello, nor orange.
  Also if found that heating the spring stock to a dull red will soften it and make it somewhat softer.
I've been using this material for most of my leaf springs.  It will not rust.  Is a great material.
I'm glad some of this is being used for fishing stuff and not aero space.💁‍♂️🐟

Well,,,,, may not be "aerospace" stuff to some, but looks like a little "Rocket Science" going on with those dogs and springs to me ;D
Great job as always guys!
Brett

Nerves of steel Sal.  Where's the bit from?  Haven't seen that one.
-steve

Quote from: oc1 on June 05, 2018, 04:21:08 AM
Nerves of steel Sal.  Where's the bit from?  Haven't seen that one.
-steve

This is actually safer, one of the reason I wanted to show it. You will have a hard time trying to get cut with that bit, but don't go for it :).
Those a similar to the bits a dentist uses in your mouth, only larger.
The set is the same as the set mentioned above, the one I'm using  is actually the same bit I've been using for 5 or so years, this should tell you something.
I was doing these with a Foredom, great tool and I still use it almost every day.
But for grinding the plate, using the drill press is a much better way. This gives you lots of control and if you keep it at slow speed, the dust doesn't fly anywhere, it just piles up on the plate.
As I gradually lower the bit, I grab the dust with a svacuum.
By the way, I got this bucket head at Home Depot, using it for a month now and its doing a good job. I believe it was $25, but you will need a 5 gallon bucket. Great tool! if you have limited space, go for it.

Another reason I wanted to show this is with the engagement of the dogs.
Using a dog for the 10/0 and one for the 9/0, or shortening one of the 10/0 dog will work, but I don't like the angle on the shorter dog.
To me the way I'm showing it is the best way, but you guys do what you're comfortable with.

Sal

Great tips Sal, the wood clamp would be quick to set up and easy to control while you slide it around to make the cuts. I like using the slow speed on a drill press for carbide tips and bakelite as well, it doesn't take much longer to cut and is a lot easier to control - high speed dremels etc are fast but they can make mistakes really fast as well, especially working freehand.
On another note - whose custom sleeve is that with the recess/groove at the base of the teeth? It looks like a good design to help keep the engagement of the dogs clear of any build up of dirty grease etc.

Mike

Mike, I'm customizing this reel for a new member.
He had that sleeve shipped with the reel, he was not aware I have some aleady.
(https://i.imgur.com/WkB6VLn.jpg)
I believe they are the early ones from Tom, Cortez Conversions.
The man is a genius.

Sal

I learned this from my uncle Art he was a mechanic for Chevrolet for 40 years. Any stuck bolts or screws that are rusted or corroded works on penn reels as good as it does on any vehicle ;heat them up with a torch then while it's still super hot spray PB blaster on it.  The heat will suck in the PB blaster.  Brakes free every time.

Great tip Rick.  Will add it to the tool box.  Bill