here's another diamond in the rough.
http://mikesreelrepair.com/schematics/schematic.php?url=Daiwa/Daiwa%20SL450H,%20450HW.pdf
and here's your reel.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4234.JPG)
let's start with the left side plate. back out the three left side plate screw A's (key #2) and the two left side side plate screw B's (key #3) one at a time, grease the screw holes and re-install the screws.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4239.JPG)
now back out the three right side plate screw A's (key #48) and two right side plate screw B's (key #49).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4240.JPG)
set them aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4241.JPG)
you now have a frame assembly (key #16), a spool (key #24) and right side plate assembly (key #36).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4242.JPG)
aluminum frames tend to corrode. take an old toothbrush and spread the old grease around a little, then wipe off all the excess.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4243.JPG)
lube the left side plate bearing (key #13).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4244.JPG)
ok, the wing nuts have to go.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4245.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4246.JPG)
you have a choice of replacing just the clamp nuts and bolts, or the entire clamp all together. the bolts are penn part #34-35, the hex nuts are #149-200, the clamp nuts are 149-45, the bolt/hex nut/clamp nut kit is #34C-45, the penn clamp is #33-340, and the entire kit is called a 33-340sp kit. these are all penn parts.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4247.JPG)
for this reel, we're going to replace everything but the clamp. nice, huh!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4249.JPG)
install the spool (key #24) into the frame assembly (key #16) and set both aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4250.JPG)
now, for the right side plate. remove the handle lock screw (key #61).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4251.JPG)
remove the handle screw (key #60). a penn wrench works well here.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4252.JPG)
remove the handle (key #59) and handle washer (key #58).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4253.JPG)
remove the star drag (key #57).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42541.JPG)
remove the tension springs (key #56). note that they are cupped "()".
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4255.JPG)
remove the three set plate screw A's (key #42) and the single set plate screw B (key #63).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4256.JPG)
the set plate assembly (key #25) will drop out as a unit.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4257.JPG)
here is an exploded view of the gear cluster. the stock daiwa drag washers will be replaced with a single penn ht-100 #6-855 and a set of five penn ht-100 #6-113h's. the #6-113h drag washers are thinner that the stock daiwa drag washers and will be doubled up to maintain the proper height.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42581.JPG)
we will be very happy to be replacing these particle board drag washers with penn drag washers.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42591.JPG)
slap a nice, thick, juice coat of cal's drag grease on the drag washers. don't worry about the excess. it will just squeeze out the sides.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4260.JPG)
rebuild the drag stack, including the spacing sleeve (key #55).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42611.JPG)
replace the set plate screws (key #'s 42 and 63), place two fingers over the screws and flip over the side plate (key #36).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN42621.JPG)
lube the right side plate bearing (key #36).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4264.JPG)
carefully align the set plate assembly (key #25) onto the right side plate (key #36).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4265.JPG)
with a right hand assist, flip over the right side plate assembly (key #36) and tighten down the set plate screws (key #'s 42 and 63).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4266.JPG)
make sure the anti-reverse mechanism is functioning properly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4267.JPG)
make sure the clutch lever (key #39) is functioning properly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4268.JPG)
grease the screw holes on the right side of the frame (key #16).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4269.JPG)
install the harness lug (key #18) and hold it in place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4270.JPG)
install the right side plate assembly (key #36).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4271.JPG)
install the right side plate screws (key #'s 48 and 49), long ones on the bottom!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4272.JPG)
adjust the spool adjusting cap (key #46) until there is zero load and zero freeplay.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4273.JPG)
give the spool a spin. let's hope you don't have to replace any bearings. they might not be easy to remove.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4274.JPG)
install the tension springs (key #56) in a "()" orientation.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4275.JPG)
install the star drag (key #57). turn it down until it won't turn any more. you should be clear of the shoulder of the set plate drive shaft and still be able to turn the star without banging into the spool adjusting cap (key #46).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4276.JPG)
install the handle washer (key #58).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4277.JPG)
at this point, we're going to install a new handle grip. i'll drill out the back of the rivet for the old grip, then remove the grip and throw it away. i'll need the arm only.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4278.JPG)
this is the latest prototype. it has a 9 degree offset and is over an inch in diameter. it is huge compared to the stock grip on the right. i've had a few guys tell me that it looks too big. my response has been that they are not catching big enough fish!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4279.JPG)
install the new handle (key #59) and handle screw (key #60).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4280.JPG)
install the handle lock screw (key #61).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4281.JPG)
done!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4282.JPG)
now, for a few comments...... the sealine 450H is a real diamond in the rough. let's compare daiwa sealine 450h to the 4/0 penn 113hlw. the spool size of the daiwa sealine 450h on the right hand side is about the same size as the wide spool 4/0 penn senator 113hlw.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4283.JPG)
the drag range is also about the same. with greased carbon fiber drag washers, the functional drag range for both reels is 10-20#'s with an absolute maximum drag of about 25#'s. because of the risk of damage to the main gears, i would recommend keeping the drag below 20#'s. once you change out the drags, the performance of the two reels is identical. the main advantage of the daiwa sealine 450h is the aluminum frame. a similar upgrade for the penn is $80 for the frame alone. the daiwa sealine 450h is available for $120, the penn 113hlw is available for $130. with a $10 drag washer upgrade, you can have an all aluminum "4/0 wide" daiwa that will perform as well as a penn. honestly, the performance of the two reels will be identical, but because of the all aluminum frame, i will vote for the daiwa sealine 450h to edge out the penn 113hlw as the best in its class.
The Daiwa also has a stainless dog,ratchet, jack and set plate.
Basto
I am really into the comparison between the sealine and 113h, mostly because I spent way to much on 113h parts lately. If 20lbs is the max recommended drag for standard parts, what upgraded parts in the 113h allow you to safely go above this? I am starting to wish for stainless sealine gear sleeves and gears so that this reel can achieve the same numbers as framed and souped up 113h. Or maybe these numbers on the smaller, but spectra ready 350 or 300 sealines.
Now I have to go put that 113h gear sleeve I bought on a reel.
I agree. I'd also like to see what the Sealine reels would do with stainless gears, sleeves, and double dogged. The consensus here is that the stock gears are quite robust.
X10 for stainless gears/sleeves for 300-600h
How hard is it to get the bearings out of these?
Cheers,
Andrew
Quote from: Ruffy on December 15, 2015, 11:55:05 PM
How hard is it to get the bearings out of these?
Cheers,
Andrew
It's easier to just replace the bearing and cups. I have them in stock as well if you want me to send them along with your drag washer order.
Bryan
I don't actually have the reel in hand yet... I saw it for sale on the other side of the country, my brother just happened to live in the next suburb though so he picked it up for $50. I am going to see him over Christmas and was hoping to rip into it then so it can stay with dad as a family beater for when us kids visit and we need extra reels. Was hoping to get all my ducks in a row so I can service it while I am there but if it has to be the cups and bearings then I might wait until I've seen it so it is not a wasted expense. Here's the reel for interests sake, looks a bit unloved but I am sure it will clean up.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/keperra/fishing/daiwa-sealine-series-400h-deep-sea-fishing-reel-in-original-box/1097895863
Quote from: Ruffy on December 16, 2015, 12:08:31 AM
I don't actually have the reel in hand yet... I saw it for sale on the other side of the country, my brother just happened to live in the next suburb though so he picked it up for $50. I am going to see him over Christmas and was hoping to rip into it then so it can stay with dad as a family beater for when us kids visit and we need extra reels. Was hoping to get all my ducks in a row so I can service it while I am there but if it has to be the cups and bearings then I might wait until I've seen it so it is not a wasted expense. Here's the reel for interests sake, looks a bit unloved but I am sure it will clean up.
http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/keperra/fishing/daiwa-sealine-series-400h-deep-sea-fishing-reel-in-original-box/1097895863
The second picture is the only one of concern given the white "stuff" on the spool...but, I've gotten Sealines in worse appearance, and they cleaned up fine with just corrosion only on the external surfaces of the chromed parts.
Yes, the old nail polish might be coming out to cover that up!
Quote from: Ruffy on December 16, 2015, 02:00:17 AM
Yes, the old nail polish might be coming out to cover that up!
OK, what's the nail polish for? I looked at all the pics, I think the spool looks pretty good. I don't see any oxidation. But nonetheless, what do you plan to do with nail polish? And if I'm missing something on the spool please let me know if you think I'm wrong.
If there is any corrosion on the spool. I won't know until I get the reel and get the line off but if it is corrosion then I'll clean it up before using clear nail lacquer to seal it. Then re-spool and go fishing!
Thanks. Would you also use nail polish on a chromed spool for the same purpose, or will things like Never-Dull take care of the same problem?
Nail laquer clear coat will seal against further intrusion / exposure on the damaged surface. after removing as much crud as possible and steel wooling, I flush with DI water and dry before coating, otherwise you are sealing in salts. I then use a paste wax like Mother's automotive on the spool before line up. Never dull is fantastic stuff but isnt really permanent in terms of sealing the surface.
see below penn spool i did the other day; the lacquer is automotive for color match but same approach applies.
I got my wife to donate some clear lacquer nail polish, but I'm wondering if Flex-Coat or something similar might be more durable and effective. It might not want to stick to the polished chrome surface adjacent to the areas were the chrome plating is gone, but as long as it stays where it needs to and prevents further oxidation of the parts of the spool devoid of chrome plating it'll serve its purpose. If I could figure a way to rotate the spool in the rod dryer (shouldn't be too difficult) I might give it a try. I didn't like the way the nail lacquer went on.... it might need to be thinned with some acetone to go on more smoothly (I was suspicious when my wife donated it to my workbench, maybe it no longer is usable for her (she's already asleep, I can't ask), but I'm more accustomed to working with flex-coat than clear nail polish (and I'm quite glad of that!) ;D
Where can I get the oversized handle for the Sealine 400?
Quote from: Caseymcv on April 24, 2017, 05:58:31 PM
Where can I get the oversized handle for the Sealine 400?
From Alan directly:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12785.0
Here is Alan's excellent tutorial on the DAIWA SEALINE H 400H / 450H reel in PDF form for easy download ( Below ) . . . ENJOY !
Tight Lines !
Seems when I tear down a reel there are always extra parts on the shaft. My 450 has a small spacer, perhaps 1/8" tall, between the 2 tension washers on the shaft.
That's the way the manufacturer puts them together. If you think they are extra parts then take them out & toss them away. You'll probably regret it though. Rudy
Yeah, I know they put it there, so why isn't it on the schematic?
I see the same stuff with Newells, they drew a schematic and decided to go off the reservation, throw in a few extra parts that aren't on the diagram.
Sometimes washers, spacers, etc. are added or subtracted because of machining tolerances and wear. Learn why it is the way it is before thinking something is wrong.
Well it was my mistake. This reel had been set up with one of those Aftco Starset drag limiters, the small spacer I found was part of that setup, not put there by Daiwa. Mea culpa.
I'll stick by the Newell comment though, I have 3 Newells I bought new and only one was setup like the schematic. If machining tolerances are off because of wear fix the machining.
I wish the anti reverse mechanism was shown in detail. Years ago I fished the Diawa Sealine reels in King Mackeral tournaments on the east coast. I had 2 450 or 450H's, I can't remember exactly, and a 450H Anti Backlash with a magnetic cast control, plus a couple of larger ones I used for bottom fishing, and on a downrigger. In the spread I also fished a Diawa Silver spinning reel in the 9000C size. My problem is after we sold the boat these reels were put up for a few years. When I checked them out all but 2 had no anti reverse, now it's just one.
So I would like to see the details about the anti reverse as I want to restore these old reels.
Quote from: alantani on December 07, 2008, 04:17:56 PM
..the stock daiwa drag washers will be replaced with a single penn ht-100 #6-855 and a set of five penn ht-100 #6-113h's. the #6-113h drag washers are thinner that the stock daiwa drag washers and will be doubled up to maintain the proper height.
the drag range is also about the same. with greased carbon fiber drag washers, the functional drag range for both reels is 10-20#'s with an absolute maximum drag of about 25#'s. because of the risk of damage to the main gears, i would recommend keeping the drag below 20#'s. once you change out the drags, the performance of the two reels is identical.
well, I did what Alan did of changing stock drags with HT-100, same exact setup he used with the 5 ht-100 doubled up but I only get 14# max with the line full at the brim in the spool with monofilament line, it might be strong enough for many of the local fish but I was looking for at least 20#, I dont know if that is doable with the drag upgraded the way I did it or maybe the drag will increase a bit if the line is at least at the middle of the spool, but I dont think it will jump from 14# to 20# just for having 1/2 spool of line in the water.
Alex, doubleing up the washers doesn't increase the drag much. It still acts like a 3 drag setup. Each double washer acts like a single washer. What you are gaining is you are updateing to CF for better & smoother preformance. Rudy
Quote from: RowdyW on October 27, 2020, 08:23:04 PM
Alex, doubleing up the washers doesn't increase the drag much. It still acts like a 3 drag setup. Each double washer acts like a single washer. What you are gaining is you are updateing to CF for better & smoother preformance. Rudy
thanks Rudy, I understand that part, but mostly asking for the stock drag numbers of the 400h, since Alan said that "with greased carbon fiber drag washers, the functional drag range for both reels is 10-20#'s with an absolute maximum drag of about 25#'s."
I was expecting to be around those numbers specially the part of "with an absolite max of 25#", I have never used a daiwa 400h in stock form so, I didnt knew how much drag # to expect for the same 3+1 drag setup but now with cabon fiber
Hi Alex
Stock configuration for the Sealine 400H/450H is about 15#, and depending on the height, is possible to get close to 18#. Not sure about 24# from a 3-stack system.
If you are looking for more, I recommend buying a 5 stack configuration at Mystic Reel Parts (https://www.mysticparts.com/CustomParts/UltimateUpgrades/UU-DAIWA400H.aspx) that I created. You should easily get 20# with a 5 stack configuration.
Bryan
Quote from: Bryan Young on October 27, 2020, 09:28:35 PM
Hi Alex
Stock configuration for the Sealine 400H/450H is about 15#, and depending on the height, is possible to get close to 18#. Not sure about 24# from a 3-stack system.
Bryan
thanks Bryan, then seems that Im getting the same stock drag numbers, I have two 400h reels that belongs to a guy that has not much money and the stock drags are totally worn out, they get around 7# max, so I offered him to clean them and change drags and try to make them at least with the stock drag again or better if I can without spending much money.
I will give one reel with the new 3+1 HT-100 drags to him to put it on test, 15# are sure enough for most of the local fish but there are times when a big gulf grouper or a nice YT take your lure and 15# are not even short to stop them, we need at least 22# to 25# to give them a good fight with this 4/0 sized reel, if you want more drag you have to take a bigger gun for the gulf grouper at least a penn 114h or international reels kind of reels.
if he found those 14# drag short then the only other option is your 5+1 kit for sure.
Quote from: steelfish on October 27, 2020, 07:44:54 PM...but I dont think it will jump from 14# to 20# just for having 1/2 spool of line in the water...
Applying the principle of levers, force of "load" (
Fl) times length of "load" arm (
Ll) = force of "effort" (
Fe) times length of "effort" arm (
Le).
Written out mathematically,
Fl x
Ll =
Fe x
LeReplace "load" with "half" or "h" for 1/2 spool: and "effort" with "full" or "f" for full spool.
Fh x
Lh =
Ff x
LfLf will be the radius from the center of the spool to the top-of-the line. For this analysis, divide this radius into fifths so that 1/5 is for the radius of an empty spool, 4/5 is the remaining radius to top-of-line of a full spool. If "...1/2 spool of line in water..." means half of the 4/5, then what's left is 2/5 + 1/5 or 3/5 of the original radius.
Now the equation becomes
Fh x (3/5)
Lf =
Ff x
Lf for half-the-spool left. Divide both sides by (3/5)
Lf and you get:
Fh = (
Ff x
Lf) / (3/5)
Lf...and this simplifies to
Fh = (5/3)
FfPluging in the drag value set at full spool,
Fh = (5/3) x
14 lbs =
23.33 lbs drag (and this is before adding in the friction of the line in the water).
If the fish ran half the line straight out and stays horizontal, no biggie, you'll get 20 lbs drag and more...but if it also goes every which way AND down, good luck with that as you stated.
Quote from: Porthos on October 29, 2020, 05:06:07 PM
...........
Pluging in the drag value set at full spool, Fh = (5/3) x 14 lbs = 23.33 lbs drag (and this is before adding in the friction of the line in the water).
If the fish ran half the line straight out and stays horizontal, no biggie, you'll get 20 lbs drag and more...but if it also goes every which way AND down, good luck with that as you stated.
ayyayaya caramba !! that quoted part is the only one I could understood but thats enough to tell my friend to use the reel as is and test it.
#20 should be enough for 80% of the normal fisheries in my zone.
thanks
Quote from: steelfish on October 29, 2020, 06:05:08 PM
ayyayaya caramba !! that quoted part is the only one I could understood but thats enough to tell my friend to use the reel as is and test it.
#20 should be enough for 80% of the normal fisheries in my zone.
thanks
I went down to the garage, buttoned down the drag on one of my 5-stack 400H's pretty tight by hand, and...YIKES!...the straight pull read 36lb on the spring scale. Definite danger zone for shredding the main gear and other things.
Quote from: Porthos on October 29, 2020, 06:08:15 PM
Quote from: steelfish on October 29, 2020, 06:05:08 PM
ayyayaya caramba !! that quoted part is the only one I could understood but thats enough to tell my friend to use the reel as is and test it.
#20 should be enough for 80% of the normal fisheries in my zone.
thanks
I went down to the garage, buttoned down the drag on one of my 5-stack 400H's pretty tight by hand, and...YIKES!...the straight pull read 36lb on the spring scale. Definite danger zone for shredding the main gear and other things.
thanks buddy,that give me enough material to tell my friend if 15-20# arent enough then the only other option is the BY 5+1 set
Quote from: Porthos on October 29, 2020, 05:06:07 PM
Quote from: steelfish on October 27, 2020, 07:44:54 PM...but I dont think it will jump from 14# to 20# just for having 1/2 spool of line in the water...
Applying the principle of levers, force of "load" (Fl) times length of "load" arm (Ll) = force of "effort" (Fe) times length of "effort" arm (Le).
Written out mathematically, Fl x Ll = Fe x Le
Replace "load" with "half" or "h" for 1/2 spool: and "effort" with "full" or "f" for full spool.
Fh x Lh = Ff x Lf
Lf will be the radius from the center of the spool to the top-of-the line. For this analysis, divide this radius into fifths so that 1/5 is for the radius of an empty spool, 4/5 is the remaining radius to top-of-line of a full spool. If "...1/2 spool of line in water..." means half of the 4/5, then what's left is 2/5 + 1/5 or 3/5 of the original radius.
Now the equation becomes Fh x (3/5)Lf = Ff x Lf for half-the-spool left. Divide both sides by (3/5)Lf and you get:
Fh = (Ff x Lf) / (3/5)Lf
...and this simplifies to Fh = (5/3)Ff
Pluging in the drag value set at full spool, Fh = (5/3) x 14 lbs = 23.33 lbs drag (and this is before adding in the friction of the line in the water).
If the fish ran half the line straight out and stays horizontal, no biggie, you'll get 20 lbs drag and more...but if it also goes every which way AND down, good luck with that as you stated.
If you will permit me to describe the math from a different angle:
I slept through most of physics, but I still think this might be better dealt with in terms of simple torque. Diving into lever arm vs effort arm (where you are pushing on the lever), makes this a bit trickier to follow, and obscures how to calculate torque, which is really the useful value. Because what we are dealing with here is torque (rotary motion), and not just a lever.
Also: Half full is ambiguous. Do me mean half of the distance from arbor to fill line, or half the line used to fill the reel?
-----
All we are really doing is using the ratio of the diameters to adjust the drag measured at one of the diameters.
For example: let's assume that half full means half of the line by distance. We estimate that half full diameter is 2 inches and full diameter is at 3 inches. We measure the drag at full diameter to be 10 lbs.
Full diameter: 3 inch
Half full diameter: 2 inch
Drag setting at full diameter : 10 lbs.
Drag at half full (of line) = (3/2) *10 =15 lbs
Easy peasy.
To get just a tiny bit more complicated, but much more useful:
If we calculate the torque in pound inches from any single drag/fill level combo, we can calculate what the drag will be at any fill level. Once we have the torque, it becomes a constant that simply we multiply by the radius at a desired fill level.
For example, using the same settings as above, we measured the drag at 1.5 in radius ( half of 3 inch diameter) to be 10 lbs.
Torque = 10 lbs * 1.5 inch , or 15 pound inches of torque.
For this example reel at this example drag setting multiply any fill radius by 15, and you will have the drag at that fill level.
1 inch radius * 15 lbs torque = 15 lbs drag.
Still easy peasy.
Fo those of you keeping score at home, this illustrates another peculiarity of those extra narrow reels you all are so fond of. The narrower the spool, the more the drag increases for each yard of line that leaves the spool.
Regarding the Baja gulf grouper: This species is listed as endangered. The scientists probably have a more accurate population estimate on this species than most because it stays resident in shallow water and is kind of hard to miss due to its size and lack of shyness. I believe it might still be legal to catch in Mexico, so I am not making any judgement about a citizen engaged in an entirely legal activity in their own country, but I felt it is worth mentioning so that folks can make an informed decision about whether they chose to target and/or keep this species. It would be nice to see them come back like the Goliath grouper in Florida.
-J
Quote from: jurelometer on October 29, 2020, 08:35:45 PM
If you will permit me to describe the math from a different angle...
My sense is that Alex has already written both of us off as nerdy geeks, and has gone off to Happy Hour at his favorite cantina for margaritas, chips, and salsa...maybe even Taco Thursdays.
Quote from: jurelometer on October 29, 2020, 08:35:45 PM
Regarding the Baja gulf grouper: This species is listed as endangered. The scientists probably have a more accurate population estimate on this species than most because it stays resident in shallow water and is kind of hard to miss due to its size and lack of shyness. I believe it might still be legal to catch in Mexico, so I am not making any judgement about a citizen engaged in an entirely legal activity in their own country, but I felt it is worth mentioning so that folks can make an informed decision about whether they chose to target and/or keep this species. It would be nice to see them come back like the Goliath grouper in Florida.
-J
nice from you to mentioning it, I have never targeted Gulf grouper, but a biga$$ YT could pull easily more than 15# of drag on a tug-0-war fight, thats why I said, that 15# is enough for 80% of the local fisheries but for a big YT from "Bay of los Angeles" area in Baja thats not enough, now, if a friend or customer want a 30# od drag reel well, I will try to install the upgrades for that, seems thar all of AT.com (me included) want to upgrade reels to make them stronger that doesnt mean we are after thos big groupers.
our Black bass grouper (which is a giant grouper) is protected by law but sadly I see many pics of those fish been fished regulary in the south Baja without any fine or penalty to the charter or the fisherman, anyway, that is going into a "spiny path" where the govertment seems to dont care and there is not much we can do but to follow the rules and try to just keep what you will eat in the short time, avoiding too young and too old fish, and if a gulf grouper is healthy by the time I have it on the boat I try to sending back to the water but as you know, sometimes the have the trolling lure too deep on it throt, IMO Leopard grouper is better on the table and even those fish I try to just keep few of them not all that bite the lure.
You can do this with the 400/450 also.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4783.0
Thanks for the update on on the groupers. I just learned something. I thought that the only giant grouper found in the sea of Cortez was the Gulf Grouper, Mycteroperca jordani.
But it turns out there is also the Pacific Goliath Grouper, Epinephelus quinquefasciatus
And in the Northern part of the sea of Cortez, wher you reside, there is a small pocket of Black Sea Bass, Stereolepis gigas, which are otherwise found on the northern Pacific coast (and SoCal USA)
All of these rare giant shallow water groupers are in the same boat. Too easy to get picked off by spear fishers by the time the reach reproductive size, and targeted fishing at the spawning aggregations. Only dedicated (and expensive) enforcement can save them.
And you also have a patch of Broomtail Grouper, Mycteroperca xenarcha in the northern sea of Cortez. Not quite a giant, but still get over 100 lbs. These are a bit more plentiful.
Of course the local pangeros know all this and more...
I couldn't find anything about the giant grouper species being protected in the Conapesca regulation guide, other than general bag limits, and a specific bag limit of two :o :( on the gulf grouper.
Sorry for taking us off topic, but this unusual species stuff has always been fascinating to me.
-J
Hey Alex I may be able to help your diawa 400 drag, and if you're patient cause it's winter coming in Alaska, that means shop time. Shop time is when your not fishing 🎣 right?
I've got some posts in diawa reels here waay back to give you more information.
I've doubled dogs , and made hex drags For my 300,400,and 600 sealine reels and have had no problems. The parts are custom made. Not easily bought or replaced. That's a negative mabee for your people, Butt it's the path to improving those reels.....
The least you can do is get .020-.025 keyed drag washers and same thickness eared washers to get more working surfaces. Maybe these can be supplied by Brian? I've made these from sst sheet. But more costly...
If you're interested in more than 25 pounds of drag for the 400and 600 sealine you can double that if you use a hex drag gear ⚙️ , butt now you have to make some hex cf washers, and use some little bit smaller metal washers, not a big deal of course. Butt custom... good luck 👍, Stay in touch. 🐟
I've caught gulf or olive grouper on the Ridge, they're pretty easy to come by, I caught a 103# last year that is still very tasty. I'm hoping for another one in the next couple of weeks.
Quote from: gstours on November 01, 2020, 02:41:55 AM
Hey Alex I may be able to help your diawa 400 drag, and if you're patient cause it's winter coming in Alaska, that means shop time. Shop time is when your not fishing 🎣 right?
I've got some posts in diawa reels here waay back to give you more information.
I've doubled dogs , and made hex drags For my 300,400,and 600 sealine reels and have had no problems. The parts are custom made. Not easily bought or replaced. That's a negative mabee for your people, Butt it's the path to improving those reels.....
The least you can do is get .020-.025 keyed drag washers and same thickness eared washers to get more working surfaces. Maybe these can be supplied by Brian? I've made these from sst sheet. But more costly...
If you're interested in more than 25 pounds of drag for the 400and 600 sealine you can double that if you use a hex drag gear ⚙️ , butt now you have to make some hex cf washers, and use some little bit smaller metal washers, not a big deal of course. Butt custom... good luck 👍, Stay in touch. 🐟
thanks Gary, I found out your thread on impoving the drags on the 350h and 400h reels, that milling work on the main gear goes beyong my paygrade but I will look for a local place that might do it for me, this is a reel that worth improving since if you take care of it it could be passed to your grand grand childrens and beyong
Quote from: day0ne on October 30, 2020, 05:05:16 AM
You can do this with the 400/450 also.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4783.0
thanks David, I will look at the metal washers on the 113h to compared them vs the ones for the 400h, I surely compared them and they were not equal, but never though on modify them to fit, so, not sure if its doable but I will look at it later during this week.
Quote from: steelfish on November 02, 2020, 07:46:05 PM
Quote from: day0ne on October 30, 2020, 05:05:16 AM
You can do this with the 400/450 also.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4783.0
thanks David, I will look at the metal washers on the 113h to compared them vs the ones for the 400h, I surely compared them and they were not equal, but never though on modify them to fit, so, not sure if its doable but I will look at it later during this week.
Don't use the 113h washers, use 400h washers with thin smoothdrag carbontex washers.
Quote from: day0ne on November 02, 2020, 08:41:48 PM
Quote from: steelfish on November 02, 2020, 07:46:05 PM
Quote from: day0ne on October 30, 2020, 05:05:16 AM
You can do this with the 400/450 also.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=4783.0
thanks David, I will look at the metal washers on the 113h to compared them vs the ones for the 400h, I surely compared them and they were not equal, but never though on modify them to fit, so, not sure if its doable but I will look at it later during this week.
Don't use the 113h washers, use 400h washers with thin smoothdrag carbontex washers.
I recall 113h metal washers have bigger holes, well this drags me to my initial problem of finding extra 400h eared and keyed washers for 3 400h reels.
I posted this some weeks ago https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=31988.0
i am trying to put an old daiwa sealine 450 back togather need a handle gearsleave thanks for the help