this rebuild post has been long overdue. the penn 3 series graphite reels have been workhorses since the day they were introduced. there are 5 reel sizes and 9 models, including the 310gti, 320gti, 321gti, 320gt2, 320ld, 330gti, 330ld, 340gti and 345gti.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40671.JPG)
we will start with the largest selling single model reel in the world, the penn 320 gti.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40701.JPG)
it is one of the easiest reels to work on when it comes to routine bearing service. removing the right side plate assembly (key #1) requires only the removal of four right side plate screws (key #32).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40711.JPG)
the reel breaks down to the frame assembly (key #183), the spool (key #29L), and right side plate assembly (key #1).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4072.JPG)
this gives you easy access to left side plate bearing (key #40). it's an abec 5 and the size is 4x11x4 if you ever need to replace it.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40741.JPG)
you also have easy access to the right spool bearing (no key #) in the bridge assembly (key #3).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4075.JPG)
one of the problem i see with this reel is corrosion. in the worst cases, the spool shaft is totally rusted to the pinion gear (key #13). good thing we got to this one when we did.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4073.JPG)
lube the right side plate bearing (key #40).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40761.JPG)
lube the worm gear (key #42) in the levelwind assembly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40771.JPG)
reinstall the spool (key #29L) into the frame (key #183) and set both aside.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4078.JPG)
now for the right side plate assembly. remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4079.JPG)
remove the handle nut (key #23).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4080.JPG)
remove the handle assembly (key #24).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4081.JPG)
remove the tension spring (key #8) and the drag star (key #10). you may save the tension spring to reinstall later, but i typically discard these because they promote corrosion.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40821.JPG)
push the eccentric lever (key #21) forward and in gear. back out each of the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4083.JPG)
the bridge assembly (key #3) should fall out easily, so catch it before it does. leave the right side plate (key #1) in the "up" position so that the bridge screws do not fall out.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4084.JPG)
a quick inspection of the main gear (key #5) reveals a little surface corrosion. this will have to be cleaned out or you may have a few "bumps" when you crank the handle.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4085.JPG)
here is an exploded view of the bridge assembly (key #3) and drag stack.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4086.JPG)
now we're going to rebuild the drag stack. we will start by replacing the fiber washer (key #4), found underneath the main gear, with a penn ht-100 carbon fiber washer (part #6-875).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4093.JPG)
slap a thick coat of cal's drag grease on the drag washer.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4094.JPG)
slide the washer down over the gear sleeve of the bridge (key #3), then install the main gear (key #5).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4095.JPG)
grease each drag washer (key #6) in turn and install them in order, alternating with the keyed and slotted metal washers (key #7). don't worry about the excess grease, it will simply squeeze out the sides.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4096.JPG)
one thing to make sure of is that the little tab of the keyed metal washer seats properly in the groove of the main gear. sometimes it rises up and rotates a little and you functionally have only a single drag washer instead of 5.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4097.JPG)
you left the right side plate intact, right? ok, place two fingers over the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4100.JPG)
you can now flip it over and not loose the bridge screws.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4101.JPG)
install the pinion gear (key #13).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4102.JPG)
install the bridge and main gear assembly as a unit and turn the bridge plate counterclockwise 90 degrees.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4103.JPG)
note carefully the orientation of the dog spring (key #14) on the dog (key #15). it will be installed in this position.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4104.JPG)
lay the dog spring (key #14) over the peg first.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4105.JPG)
pull the dog (key #15) over the top of and down onto the bridge screw (key #16).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4159.JPG)
rotate the bridge plate (key #3) 90 degrees clockwise and press the bridge plate down until it seats properly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4107.JPG)
with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly (key #1) over to give you access to the bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4108.JPG)
seat all four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17) halfway, then screw them all down snugly.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4109.JPG)
check the function of the anti-reverse system.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4110.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4112.JPG)
check the function of the eccentric lever assembly (key #21) or freespool lever.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4111.JPG)
lube the bridge bearing (key #3).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4113.JPG)
lube the spool shaft (key #29L). remember, you will have to keep after this. the spool shaft has a nasty habit of seizing up inside the pinion gear.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4114.JPG)
install the right side plate (key #1) and screws (key #32).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4116.JPG)
here is the upgraded spool tension control cap (key #26B). the flare on top is large enough to insure that the cap will not fall off. quite a few of these have. remove the old cap and install the new one.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4117.JPG)
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4118.JPG)
install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until it clears the shoulder of the the gear sleeve (key #98) that the handle (key #24) rests on.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4119.JPG)
we are going to upgrade the reel with a 4/0 senator power handle (part #24-349H). the price just went up on these and are now $24, from $13 several months ago.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4120.JPG)
install the new power handle (key #24) and the handle screw (key #23).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4121.JPG)
install the handle lock screw (key #23A).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4122.JPG)
and you're done! congratulations.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4123.JPG)
now for a couple of comments. first, the positives - it has a 4/0 senator drag set capable of delivering 25 pounds of drag or better. the drag #6-320 drags have the same inside and outside diameters as the #6-113H drag washers from the 4/0 penn 113h. here you have 113h drags on the left, 320 drags on the right.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4091.JPG)
the difference is the thickness. the #6-113h drag washers on the left have a fiberglass core, making them thicker. the #6-320 drag washers on the right do not. the performance of these washers is identical.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4092.JPG)
the gears are similar as well. you have a #5-320 main gear with a 4:1 ratio on the left and a #5-113h main gear with a 3.25:1 gear ratio on the right.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4090.JPG)
note, however, that the teeth on the main and pinion gears of the penn 113h (right side) are much larger than the teeth of the main and pinion gears of the penn 320 gti (left side). the smaller teeth of the 320 main gear will shred much easily than the heaver teeth of the 113h main gear.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4089.JPG)
i damaged the main gear of this left handed penn 321 when i cranked the drags down to 28 pounds. well, um, i was curious. just ordered a new main and pinion gear. it was a $23 mistake. let's keep these drag settings under 20#'s of drag from now on.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4287.JPG)
the 320 has a small spool that will hold 300 yards of 80# spectra. the soft brass main gear limits the drag range to under 20#'s. i would not call the 320 a true third generation reel, but it can take excellent advantage of the new spectras and high test monofilaments. the spool in the middle is from a penn 320 gti. on the right is a jigmaster spool, on left is a squidder spool.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4137.JPG)
there are a pair of spool bearings that can easily be cleaned and lubed to deliver excellent freespool times.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4124.JPG)
and finally, there are also handle options available for this reel.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4120.JPG)
now, the negatives - the levelwind is the single most problematic assembly that i have ever dealt with. maybe it's just me, but i order up alot of worm gears from mysticparts.com. i believe this is due to the drag sticking under a heavy load when the line and the leveler are 180 degrees out of sync. special care must be taken to always keep the line and the leveler in sync and the drags can be greased. this should take care of the levelwind problem.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4288.JPG)
but think about this. what if we took the levelwind assembly out? you would have to remove the idler gear (key #64), the line guide carriage (key #46), the pawl (key #47) and the pawl cover screw (key #48). you can actually leave the worm assembly (key #42) in place so that you don't have holes in the frame. here's a left handed penn 321 gti that has been stripped down.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4133.JPG)
since this reel is going to have to cast well, we will pull out the left side plate bearing (key #40).
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4131.JPG)
we'll pull the shields off, clean out the old grease, lube it with corrosion x and re-install the bearing open.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4132.JPG)
to service the bearing in the bridge (key #3), you need to gently tap out the bearing with a hex socket. careful here. by banging on this bearing too much, i damaged and had to replace it. if your bridge bearing is still smooth, please service this bearing just from the outside, leaving the bearing in place.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4127.JPG)
the bearing is an abec 5 measuring 8x16x5, just in case you need a new one.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4125.JPG)
remove the shields, clean out all of the old crud and lube it up.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4128.JPG)
i used the sanding bit for a dremmel to open the bearing cup a little. now the bearing slides in an out more easily.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4126.JPG)
with the bearing installed open, the new owner will be able to pull the side plate, remove the spool and service (or at least relube) both bearings after every trip. he will be casting for yellowtail. clean bearings are critical.
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4129.JPG)
and this is the result!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4134.JPG)
so now you have a pocket rocket with a very strong light graphite frame, easy to throw all day long, a small spool that's gives you great casting distance, the capacity to hold 300 yards of 80# spectra and a short 30, 40, 50 or 60# topshot, a drag stack that will deliver 20#'s of drag, decent spool bearings, plenty of handle options and (ta da!) a levelwind option. ok, i know that's lame, but you actually could put the levelwind assembly back in. it's also available in right hand and left hand models.
i would still call the shimano tld star 15/30 the best reel in this class, but the penn 320gti, 320gt2 and 321gti have to be the most versatile!
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4135.JPG)
written 4/30/2008 at
Quote
Is there a trick to removing the spool? Have removed the Right side plate and L/W assembly. The spool will turn freely but it will not pull out of cage.
sometimes the spool is rusted to the left spool bearing and you have to crow bar out the spool. that will damage the idler gear. other times the spool is rusted to the pinion gear. that requires that you remove the freespool lever. all of the guts of the right side plate will come out and then you can work on the pinion gear. alan
Quote
Hi Mr. Tani,
My name is Mike Ackal. I own and operate a rod and reel repair shop in south Louisiana, LA Reel Repair. I am also an Airframe and Powerplant technician for a large helicopter leasing company (I stay pretty busy). I have read and enjoyed many of your posts pertaining to reel rebuilds and upgrades and just became a member of your Alan Tani.com site. The reason I am writing you, besides the formal introduction, is in response to your article about the Penn 3 series reel rebuild. You said that you damaged the bearing in the bridge assembly when you removed it by hammering it out with a socket. I not long ago rebuilt a Penn 330 GTi, which is very similar (as you know, sorry) and needed to remove the worn bearing in the bridge assembly. I used a technique that I have used for removing bearings in everything from lawn mower wheels to universal joints. I do not own a hydraulic press, but hopefully I will get one soon. In the meantime, I use a C-clamp (6 to 8 inch preferably) with a socket placed over the bearing opening on the egress (inner) side of the bridge bearing housing large enough to allow the bearing to enter the socket, and a smaller socket that fits in the opening on the outside of the bridge bearing housing in contact with the bearing. Place your C-clamp around the two sockets, turn the crank, and press the bearing out. It comes out easily, with no damage to your bearing or bridge. Just be sure and stake it back in carefully. I like a 1/16" pin punch for that.
That's all for now, just a small way of thanking you for all of your helpful tips and tricks. I have a few others I will try and share now and then as I think of them. I also have a large inventory of hard to find parts for older Penn, Ambassadeur, Bantam, Diawa, some Lew's, some Shakespeare. If you need anything that you cannot find anywhere else, look my way! I may have it. If you would like to contact me by phone, my number is 337-380-0989. I look forward to having another fellow workbench-er for a friend. Thank you for all you do for and contribute to our hobby and livelihood.
Sincerely,
Mike Ackal
LA Reel Repair
St. Martinville, LA
thanks, mike!
Alan, I read on another forum you were thinking of putting lugs on your 320GTi and see what the reel is capable of. Can you give us an update on it?
i don't recall that one, but it would not really be necessary. the 320 is a pretty light duty reel.
Here's a silly question. On the 321 GTI LH Penn reel, is the screw thread for the handle actually a left handed thread? So, instead of righty tighty, lefty loosy....the handle wrench actually needs to be turned righty to go LOOSY. Correct? The star drag appears to follow the same thread and looks like a left handed thread - I can't imagine two different threads (right and left spirals) on the same drive shaft. Thanks for the help. Might do a 321GTI LH if I can get into it.
The star on a 321 tightens and you move it forward, so it has the reverse thread to the 320. But the two reels use the same handle nut and have the same threads inside the gear sleeve.
Quote from: mrbrklyn on May 10, 2013, 05:54:27 PM
Here is a question I can never figure out
What is the diofference betweena 320 and a 321?
The difference is the #1, sorry I couldn't help myself ;D.
I believe the 321 is the left hand model.
Hi Rubin,
Yes, the left side plate is part of the frame. Don't try to remove it. Only the chrome ring will come off, and if you don't need to mess with the line winder worm gear, it's best not to touch it.
Unfortunately, I've got boxes of reels and am looking at a Time to Start is around 4 weeks. It's fishing season now and us full and part time reel techs are busy. I could probably squeeze in 1 reel if needed with a 2 week turnaround if no parts need to be ordered. PM me if you need me.
Quote from: mrbrklyn on May 10, 2013, 05:51:04 PM
Hi
I was trying to get information in order to lubricate my Penn GTI 320, like that you have posted, I can't get the left side of the reel to detach from frame as you have in the photograph. It seems like the entire left side is attached to the reel in one peice without access to any geers other than a little visable gear. It doesn't seem to come apart. Anyway, in the process of this, I managed to drop all the little springs and cams out of the right side of the reel and I can't put it together again.
How do you guys learn to do this? Those expossive diagrapms are about useless.
So I need to send it out to someone to put it together again. I have all the parts in a box. Should I ship it to Penn (3week turn around) or does someone have a better idea? I can spend a few bucks on it.
Ruben
Looks like the spool shaft got rusted to the pinion gear - the common problem of the GTI series. In this case separate the geartrain assembly and spool as a whole. Then remove the handle, the drag star, the bridge screws and the decoupler lever screw which allow you to remove the handle side plate. After the handle side plate is removed you can remove the main gear and the other parts. You will be left with the spool assembly, bridge assembly and the pinion gear. Get a piece of small diameter brass pipe, slide it on the spool shaft against the pinion and whack the assembly a few times with a hammer to break free the pinion from the shaft. After the pinion is removed clean the shaft with a fine grit sandpaper.
Sometimes, but not every time, you can use the 2 fully threaded bridge screws in reverse: screw them into the bridge, so they butt and push against the spool, thereby walking the pinion off the spool. Tighten one screw a bit then the other, and it may work. If you put a coin on the spool, you won't get a small spot of anodize removal.
Doing this, I am 5 off, one stuck. The one stuck, I did what Mr. tile did.
I've done the bridge screw trick a few times, only I learned to use two bolts longer than the factory bolts, that way you know you have enough thread to move the spool off the pinion.
Ron
Quote from: mrbrklyn on May 10, 2013, 07:49:32 PM
yeah - it looks like no matter what I do, I've lost this reel for the season. Seems like I've lost both for the season. Worse things can happen, I suppose. But this is how one ends up stocking reels. Buy a new one, send 2 out for repair ... end up with 3.
A Fishing Reel Exchange ... that is what I need in NYC. Bring in a used reel and exchange it for another, while the guy in the back fixes them, replenishing supply.
Ruben
Ruben: If your reels are lost for the season, I can lend you a 320 LD until the season is over. If you are interested I will be in Staten Island on June 1st or if you pay the shipping, I'll send it to you. PM me if interested. Dominick
Hi Alan,
Thanks for posting this tutorial. With it I was able to change out the drags on my 320 gti. The new ones were quite a bit thicker as you mentioned so i had to leave one out in order to button her back up. I love this reel. Caught a #60 bft on it last tues so I can say personally that it has exceeded my expectations. I use it mainly for bottom fishing <400ft, which leads me to my question to you...
I find value in the level wind feature: Yesterday took it out and the level wind stopped working. It moved to the right side (crank side) of the reel and got stuck there...Perhaps it was my opening her up that provoked the issue (let sleeping dogs lay) but like mentioned earlier in this thread, it's a pretty common issue so here it is.
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n623/zkidd91/181_zpsedd83fe9.jpg)
The worm shield appears to be worn. Perhaps from normal extensive use but definitely doesn't look symmetrical to the left side of the shield. Assuming replacing this would be needed.
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n623/zkidd91/179_zps69d01f93.jpg)
One "tooth" of the pawl appears shorter than the other. Assuming replacing this would be needed.
(http://i1143.photobucket.com/albums/n623/zkidd91/180_zpsfb86dff7.jpg)
I didn't really notice any distinct damage on this worm gear but also assuming that replacing this should be done, since I'll be replacing the pawl as well and my eyes aren't what they used to be so...
Before I order parts, If you or any of the kind readers could confirm my assumptions, that would be great.
In the meantime, i'm fishing it without the level-wind feature.
thanks,
-levi
san diego, ca
levi, at the very best, a .010" teflon dot can shim the pawl and take care of this. at the very worst, you will need a dot and also have to replace everything. send me an e-mail with your address and i will send out some dots. if they work, you are done. if not, contact mysticparts.com for a new levelwind assembly.
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
My advice is to replace the whole levelwind assembly on your reel.
that would work, but we might be able to save this guy $20. i see no damage to the worm or pawl. this teflon dot trick just might work!
Or replace the shield only. That part is badly mismachined.
Quote from: alantani on August 16, 2013, 10:04:40 PM
levi, at the very best, a .010" teflon dot can shim the pawl and take care of this. at the very worst, you will need a dot and also have to replace everything. send me an e-mail with your address and i will send out some dots. if they work, you are done. if not, contact mysticparts.com for a new levelwind assembly.
Just got it in the mail. Thank you. You are a gentlemen and a scholar. Probably won't get to it for a week or so. Last week of vacation with the lil ones so we are out and about.
Quote from: Tile on August 17, 2013, 02:16:26 PM
My advice is to replace the whole levelwind assembly on your reel.
Yessir. This is what Penn recommended as well....it will be fun to see if the dots work. We shall see.
I've got 6 320gti's I'm rebuilding for a buddy. These have never been serviced and are in poor shape. The main and pinion gears were toasted so I bought what my local shop had on hand and some NOS off of Ebay. I'm guessing the newer overseas GT2 gears are not interchangeable with US made NOS? Lesson learned! On the 2 reels I've serviced, I can't get them back to factory smooth so I'm thinking the mains are toasted. I removed one to clean and lube. The other one I left in place and removed the shield. While they are smoother than before which was horrible, but I'm not happy. I have yet to evaluate the worm gears, but I suspect at least 3 of the 6 need new ones.
1) Does anyone have the LH side plate spool bearing dimensions? Anyone have any to sell?
2) Anyone have 4 main bearings they would part with?
It's that time of year where it's too cold the garage, but reels must be serviced.
Thanks in advance, Kevin
the left side plate is 4x11x4 and the bridge bearing 8x16x5. dawn at smoothdrag has them. if you need the teflon dots to shim the levelwind pawl, let me know.
Thanks Alan.
Teflon dots? Guess I need to read this entire thread.
Alan
I have been reading you're posts and comments for several years on other forums and the information has been great.
I am primarily a fly fisherman and my fly reels are pretty simple and old school compared to the complex reels on this forum.
I covet the likes of Olsons, Hardy's, Bogens and all bench made reels. I do have times when I fish with conventional gear and most of it is in need of TLC. I troll for salmon in Puget sound and I'm trying to service my wife's Penn GGTi 321 using you'r tutorial.
My question is you mention replacing the 6-320 drag washers with those from a 113. My reel also has a plastic click tongue 35-310N and the photo in your tutorial shows a metal one.
Can I get a metal part to replace the fiber one?
Can you direct me to a parts supplier or can I just purchase the needed parts them from you.
I would appreciate all and any help as my next plan is to do my Shimano Charter Special.
Thanks
for the 320, i would replace the drag washer under the main gear with a $2 carbontex drag. i would also put a teflon "dot" under the levelwind pawl. i can mail them to you if you wish. send a pm with your address. also grease the other 5 drag washers.
Thanks Alan!
How do you want me to pay you for them and how much do I owe you? I will forward payment to you as soon I know.
If there is anything I would need to service a "Shimano Charter Special 2000" please let me know so I can add it on.
Thanks for all the help!
My address is:
........
for the charter special, there is a carbontex drag washer. i can include one, ship it out and send a paypal request. you have a pm. thanks! ;D
Alan, just wanted to thank you for these write-ups, they gave me the inspiration to tear these apart and the more reels I do, the deeper it gets.. nothing beats a reel that's been tuned right, and I pulled the level wind off of my 320 lever drag and added the handle upgrade. Picture shown is a mess of line resulting from a broken pawl. Buh bye levelwind!
dante, i will send out some of those teflon dots.
That would be great Alan! I saved all the parts in case I put the levelwind back in.
Got the teflon dots, thanks Alan! The bearing packer works great too!
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll34/TEAM_PILE/Stuff/Reel%20Maintenance/Penn%20320LD%20LW%20Removal/100_3367_zpse8f6ad5f.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/TEAM_PILE/media/Stuff/Reel%20Maintenance/Penn%20320LD%20LW%20Removal/100_3367_zpse8f6ad5f.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll34/TEAM_PILE/Stuff/Reel%20Maintenance/Penn%20320LD%20LW%20Removal/100_3368_zps3694aa4d.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/TEAM_PILE/media/Stuff/Reel%20Maintenance/Penn%20320LD%20LW%20Removal/100_3368_zps3694aa4d.jpg.html)
(http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll34/TEAM_PILE/Stuff/Reel%20Maintenance/Penn%20320LD%20LW%20Removal/100_3370_zpsdc2d94f5.jpg) (http://s284.photobucket.com/user/TEAM_PILE/media/Stuff/Reel%20Maintenance/Penn%20320LD%20LW%20Removal/100_3370_zpsdc2d94f5.jpg.html)
time for you to open up a reel repair shop!
Haha! Not this guy.. I'm just following the Doctor's advice!
On one of my 321's, the screws holding the handle side plate (left side on the 321) are stripping out the graphite frame holes. Does anyone have a solution to stripped holes? Some kind of heli-coil? Does anyone have a solution to keep them from stripping in the first place? I've noticed that occasionally you can see pieces of the graphite threads coming out on the screws as you remove them. I've been using the Yamaha grease as I service them. But I don't know if that is helpful or harmful. Thanks in advance.
copper sheet from a local hobby shop. cut a strip as long and as wide as the screw hole and shove it in, followed by the screw. i have found that the aluminum from soda cans is too soft.
Quote from: alantani on August 16, 2013, 10:04:40 PM
levi, at the very best, a .010" teflon dot can shim the pawl and take care of this. at the very worst, you will need a dot and also have to replace everything. send me an e-mail with your address and i will send out some dots. if they work, you are done. if not, contact mysticparts.com for a new levelwind assembly.
An alternate to a dot is a bit, cut out of a pop or beer can. The aluminum is soft, cuttable. I found this out, when one day I ran out of 330 line pawls, and only had 340/345 pawls. Which are shorter than 330 pawls. Enter the scissors, and the drink can. Worked pretty good. I made a square that fit into the pawl keeper.
Thanks Alan. Are you shaping the strip any, or just force it to the side with the screw?
just shoving it in!
""" the teeth on the main and pinion gears of the penn 113h (right side) are much larger than the teeth of the main and pinion gears of the penn 320 gti (left side). the smaller teeth of the 320 main gear will shred much easily than the heaver teeth of the 113h main gear. ""
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4089.JPG)
ok, this might be a dumb question but.. since the drag washers are the same size and diameter, I can only imagine the main gear are same size too.
and since 113h main drag and pinion are more robust than the ones on the 320gti, have anyone tried to install some 113h gears on the smaller sibling?
it would be a nice new breed of 320gt, stronger and more torquier.. I will be looking for some 4/0 113h old reel on the flea markets to try out, unless Alan or other reel guru already tried that with no luck
You can't replace 320 gears with 113H gears. The main gears are not exactly the same height, but more importantly, the inside diameters of the pinion gears are different. From my experience, the drag on the 320 is over built to begin with: If you push a 320 drag as much as is possible, the plastic frame will torque: Good bye level wind and good by gears...
yeah. too bad you can't. that would have been a cheap way to upgrade the 113h to a 4:1 gear ratio!
Quote from: akfish on January 20, 2015, 12:10:31 AM
but more importantly, the inside diameters of the pinion gears are different.
dang!! I really forgot about inside diameter of the pinion.
well, somehow I knew and I was just waiting for these answers to appear.
thanks Akfish and thanks Alan.
Im still afraid of opening my 320gt from my last trolling fishing trip, where a big and fat sea Lion took my spanish mack and run like mad train, ate the fish and managed to hook itself on the tail, man!!! was like fighting a mad bull on steroids, my 320gt had no chance, even with the drag really tight (not all locked out), all the handle side plate got hot and the reel was just screaming ZZZZZZZzzzzz, my capt. followed the sealion until have it aprox to 30ft and then I cut the line.
so far, the reel is still with terrific feel spool so, no damage on the spool, and with the drag bit of loose it let the line go freely smooth, I hope the only damage on the reel is the need for new carbontex drags.
good news is that my new strongest reel is a fathom 40, and this 320gt will be my wife's reel.
I dont see the fathom having a chance with the same sealion, tho.
Quote from: alantani on February 27, 2014, 01:31:14 AM
for the 320, i would replace the drag washer under the main gear with a $2 carbontex drag. i would also put a teflon "dot" under the levelwind pawl. i can mail them to you if you wish. send a pm with your address. also grease the other 5 drag washers.
Alan, how many teflon dots are needed to shim the levelwind pawl correctly?
mine is still working good and no signs of ever fail on the rails, so one is enough just to keep it that way?
One should be plenty.
cool, thank you
So I stripped down a 320 today, put in new drags, greased everything and followed the tutorial. Everything seems to be working correctly, however, the handle is a little harder to turn then it should be. Any suggestions to correct this?
It's possible that the top eared washer is not properly seated in the main gear.
I'll double check that, thanks
Quote from: alantani on December 07, 2008, 04:19:42 PM
now for a couple of comments. first, the positives - it has a 4/0 senator drag set capable of delivering 25 pounds of drag or better.
just to be 110% sure, this reel 320gti is actually a small version of the good old 113h 4/0 reel, right?
just bit less line capacity, although when fitting 300yd of 80# braid on the 320gi I dont see me needing more line than that.
if that assumption is right, doest that make the 320gt a stronger reel than the 112h 3/0 ?
the 320 and 330 have the same drag surface area. the carbon fiber drag washers themselves are thinner, but the total surface area is the same. now, the gear teeth are another issue. the heavy gear teeth of the 3.25:1 gear ratio 113h senators are fairly heavy. the gear teeth of the 4:1 320/33/ gt series reels are quite a bit skinnier. figure that the 113h gears will reliably perform at 15#'s of drag, you might have a max of 20#'s and will shred at 25#'s. the the skinnier gear teeth of the 320/330 gt series reels will reliably perform at 12#'s of drag, have a max of 15#'s, and will reliably shred at 20#'s of drag.
well, yes Alan, I know by memory this whole thread LOL.
but what about the smaller 3/0 senator, is it an exactly 4/0 (gears, power, etc) but smaller?
or its the same case than 320gti vs 220gti where the 220gti is not on the same league (drag) than the bigger brother
I mostly asking this cuz a friend has a lot of reels that he not use, and many of them are really beat up and few are no-names or chinesse ones, but he has a penn 3/0 senator and I might take it only if is on the same league of the 320gti, it not, then I will let another friend to take it, I'm first hand on choosing.
the black side plate 112 has pretty heavy gears and is not so bad, it's just slow. the red side plate 112H has jigmaster gears, and all the problems that go along with jigmaster gears. the 112h will not perform to the same level as the venerable 113h.
Quote from: Linesiders on February 10, 2015, 05:53:47 AM
So I stripped down a 320 today, put in new drags, greased everything and followed the tutorial. Everything seems to be working correctly, however, the handle is a little harder to turn then it should be. Any suggestions to correct this?
Your drag stack may be too high and hitting the sideplate. That is the only other thing I can think of why the handle is binding.
Quote from: alantani on February 13, 2015, 07:44:56 PM
the red side plate 112H has jigmaster gears, and all the problems that go along with jigmaster gears. the 112h will not perform to the same level as the venerable 113h.
thanks, I knew I did read that somewhere in this forum already, thanks again for the clarification
I just want to point out that our Jigmasters are not the same as Penn stock Jigmasters. I believe that some that I have could handle 20# drag.
that awesome, thanks for pointing that out, that gives me also another reason to dont take that 3/0 from my friend and let it for another guy that will use it more than me, if I ever want a small old school penn for casting purposes, I'd better go with a modded up jigmaster instead of a bulky 3/0.
I really more into newer reels for casting the iron or jigs all day, tho.
PS: I used to have a 500L and love it, I just got blinded by the bling and specs of all alloy little tanks and sold it.
I really cant afford to have more than 5 reels (my wife forced me to put this last sentence)
You know, they log in to see what we're up to.
This series of reels also have graphite (aka plastic) frames. Elsewhere on this forum we've seen graphite frames fail at about 20 lbs drag. Some of the culprits were Shimano TLDs. That is reason enough for me to keep the drag settings quite a bit less than than 20 lbs.
Quote from: Bryan Young on February 13, 2015, 10:19:05 PM
Quote from: Linesiders on February 10, 2015, 05:53:47 AM
So I stripped down a 320 today, put in new drags, greased everything and followed the tutorial. Everything seems to be working correctly, however, the handle is a little harder to turn then it should be. Any suggestions to correct this?
Your drag stack may be too high and hitting the sideplate. That is the only other thing I can think of why the handle is binding.
Finally got a chance to take it apart, and put it back together with the same problem. Took it apart again and removed the pen ht-100 carbon fiber washer that I added as an upgrade. Put it back together w the original washer. Now it's working fine.
So most likely, I fixed the problem without my knowledge of doing it or is this something that can occur with the ht-100? What's the benefit to that washer anyway?
too much overall height. maybe the wave washer had to come out. not sure. glad you at least got it working. it will be fine as is. now go catch something with it!
I need a bearing for my 330 gti. Does anyone know where I could get one? I need it to have removable shields for cleaning purposes. Oh and I need the one that goes on the bridge plate.
Quote from: steelfish on January 19, 2015, 11:48:04 PM
""" the teeth on the main and pinion gears of the penn 113h (right side) are much larger than the teeth of the main and pinion gears of the penn 320 gti (left side). the smaller teeth of the 320 main gear will shred much easily than the heaver teeth of the 113h main gear. ""
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4089.JPG)
ok, this might be a dumb question but.. since the drag washers are the same size and diameter, I can only imagine the main gear are same size too.
and since 113h main drag and pinion are more robust than the ones on the 320gti, have anyone tried to install some 113h gears on the smaller sibling?
it would be a nice new breed of 320gt, stronger and more torquier.. I will be looking for some 4/0 113h old reel on the flea markets to try out, unless Alan or other reel guru already tried that with no luck
Conversely it wasn't difficult to slightly mill down he spiggot on the 113H spool to accept the GTi gears as it really only locates both the spool in the bearing and the gear to the spool. Popped a small sleeve in the bearing to accept the smaller dia shaft.
Works a treat and am yet to see any real damage after a couple of years of use. The other option was to ream/drill the gear but also thought that might court trouble in gear strength.
Ooops, cat is out of the bag...... ;)
That would give you a 5:1 gear ratio on a 4/0! I would be cautious with drag numbers due to the larger spool diameter but otherwise Holy Moly the retrieve ratio!
Cool stuff.
Ron
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN4117.JPG)
where to find the upgraded spool tension control cap (key #26B). "the flare on top is large enough to insure that the cap will not fall off. quite a few of these have. remove the old cap and install the new one."
on scotts the carry to small one, and I would like to get the one with the long flares.
Hi everyone, I bought the cap 26B but didn't buy new shims 40C and 40D. I've dug the old ones out of the old cap however they aren't enough, I can wind the cap down as far as it can go without affecting the spool. I was just going to make some more out of a plastic milk carton, I am not paying for a courier on such cheap parts from the Aussie penn parts supplier. Anyone see any issues with this? Is there a better household material I should use?
Cheers,
Andrew
i never could get this to work right. i left out the rubber piece, cranked the cap all the way down, left a whole bunch of play in the spool and called it a day. :-\
Hi Alan,
I had a look at the GT2 schematic (attached) and it says you need two of the metal shims (40C) and one rubber one (40D), which my GTi with the old cap did not have. I am guessing this is why we both had the issue with the new cap (26B). With one metal and one rubber thrust washer it is closer to working than I thought it'd be initially (I can get some friction on the spool), I am sure with another plastic dot in between the two it'll be fine.
Cheers,
Andrew
I have two 320 gti reels that I have owned since new. I use them for lead core trolling in fresh and salt water and have them both loaded up with dacron backing and 10 colors of 27 lb test lead core. Recently the line guide began to malfunction on one of the reels. It is very critical especially with lead core that the line guide never gets out of sync with the line on the spool. The situation was that I had nine of the ten colors out, hooked a fish, and while retrieving the line the line guide started hanging up on the left side of the spool causing the lead core to start piling up in one place on the left side and then the pawl/worm gear would engage again and I ended up with quite a mess. I landed the fish, but had to retire the outfit and go to my backup rig. I took the reel apart, cleaned and inspected the worm gear/pawl, re-lubed, and took the outfit in the garage to reload the line. It worked for a few revolutions and the problem resurfaced. I suppose replacing the worm gear and pawl are in order. These reels have been rock solid.........are they prone to this problem? How can I prevent this from happening once I replaced the worm gear/pawl set? Thanks, George Santee, CA
Quote from: GeorgeN on November 21, 2015, 01:18:06 AM
I have two 320 gti reels that I have owned since new. I use them for lead core trolling in fresh and salt water and have them both loaded up with dacron backing and 10 colors of 27 lb test lead core. Recently the line guide began to malfunction on one of the reels. It is very critical especially with lead core that the line guide never gets out of sync with the line on the spool. The situation was that I had nine of the ten colors out, hooked a fish, and while retrieving the line the line guide started hanging up on the left side of the spool causing the lead core to start piling up in one place on the left side and then the pawl/worm gear would engage again and I ended up with quite a mess. I landed the fish, but had to retire the outfit and go to my backup rig. I took the reel apart, cleaned and inspected the worm gear/pawl, re-lubed, and took the outfit in the garage to reload the line. It worked for a few revolutions and the problem resurfaced. I suppose replacing the worm gear and pawl are in order. These reels have been rock solid.........are they prone to this problem? How can I prevent this from happening once I replaced the worm gear/pawl set? Thanks, George Santee, CA
Its probably just wear of the Pawl or Worm or both. They have a finite life span particularly when retrieving continually under load like lead core will produce.
Quote from: GeorgeN on November 21, 2015, 01:18:06 AM
I have two 320 gti reels that I have owned since new. I use them for lead core trolling in fresh and salt water and have them both loaded up with dacron backing and 10 colors of 27 lb test lead core. Recently the line guide began to malfunction on one of the reels. It is very critical especially with lead core that the line guide never gets out of sync with the line on the spool. The situation was that I had nine of the ten colors out, hooked a fish, and while retrieving the line the line guide started hanging up on the left side of the spool causing the lead core to start piling up in one place on the left side and then the pawl/worm gear would engage again and I ended up with quite a mess. I landed the fish, but had to retire the outfit and go to my backup rig. I took the reel apart, cleaned and inspected the worm gear/pawl, re-lubed, and took the outfit in the garage to reload the line. It worked for a few revolutions and the problem resurfaced. I suppose replacing the worm gear and pawl are in order. These reels have been rock solid.........are they prone to this problem? How can I prevent this from happening once I replaced the worm gear/pawl set? Thanks, George Santee, CA
it happens ALOT!!!!! i use a teflon dot that is 0.010 inches thick to shim the pawl and avoid this problem. if you send me a pm with your address, i will drop a bunch into the mail.
Alan,
Thank you so much for offering to send me the Teflon dots to shim the pawls on my 320 GTI reels. I will try the shim first to see if I can get away without replacing the pawl and worm gear as after cleaning them up there was no obvious wear signs, my eye sight being not the best, however.
If it works, I will also shim the other reel that so far has not developed this problem. If I do replace the pawl/worm gear on the troubled reel, I will also shim the new pawl to prevent the problem reoccurring. I just emailed my mailing address to you. I have received nothing bu the best of help from you and all others I have interacted with since I joined this forum. You are all very inspirational and truly devoted fishing reel professionals. George Santee, CA
Alan, did you get my mailing address. I sent you an email to your yahoo email address. Jusr checking to see if you received it. Thanks, George Santee. CA
yes, you should have had that envelope by now. i'm guessing it will arrive today.
Thanks Alan. I got the dots and installed one in the reel with the problem and it appears that it is now working. The true test will be on the water which I will do next week after Thanksgiving. I also installed a shim in the other reel to prevent any future line guide problems. Many thanks and the best of Thanksgiving to you and your family. I will be posting as soon as the next fishing trip happens and I put the repaired reel through a day on the water. George Santee, CA
Alan,
Just in case I need parts for these GTI reels in the future, who would be the most reliable source for Penn parts such as the line guide components? Thanks, George >+)))><
yes, mysticparts.com will be your best bet.
Thanks Alan I will add mysticparts.com to my resource list. George >+)))><
"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
Alan,
Just as a side note, I took one of the teflon shims you sent and installed into the pawl/worm in a 310GTI that I also own. It made the 310 a little tight through the travel of the pawl across the worm. I removed the shim assuming that the 310GTI's do not have the same design flaw as the 320's have. Am I right in my assumption or does my particular 310 have a better pawl/worm fit by chance? Just curious.
I have not yet had a chance to test my repaired 320 on the water. Looks like I will not be going out until next week and will report on the results then. George >+)))>< Santee, CA
Trying to steal one of these has been tough...they rarely go under $50 on the big auction. I've read this tutorial so many times that if I ever do snag a deal, I'll know how to tear it down blindfolded! 8)
Quote from: mo65 on May 05, 2019, 03:58:30 PM
Trying to steal one of these has been tough...they rarely go under $50 on the big auction. I've read this tutorial so many times that if I ever do snag a deal, I'll know how to tear it down blindfolded! 8)
Keep the faith Mo, I got mine few years back from fleabay for $40 shipped and it had some Alantani mods already, the bearing of the bridge was already open with no shields, it had the carbontex under the main gear and the bigger knob of the tension spool, still one of my favorites for bait fishing in the bay.
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=12869.0
Hey everyone. I just acquired an older 320Gti that has never been opened. Below is the picture of it, and I have a quick question:Everywhere I look online shows these reels came in boxes, yet mine is packaged in plastic. Was this packaging specific to a certain store, like a Kmart or Walmart?
Just curious. Thanks.
(https://i.imgur.com/hHrWD6s.jpg)
I have bought several Penns in that clamshell packaging. Usually it was at a sporting goods store like Big5, but Walmart as well. Don't give it a second thought, the reels are the same quality as boxed ones.
There is also this clamshell package. As long as it is USA made all is well.
Thank you JoseCuervo for the info.
I'm halfway through my 320gti service- first conventional reel I've ever done. Ordered a handful of parts from Mystic (worm, pawl, idler gears, etc.) that arrived today so I'll finish up tonight.
Service is simple and straighforward. If you're new to repair and on the fence about diving in, do it. This tutorial and the info on Mystic's website are a great help.
Is the worm and pawl a go/no go item in terms of wear? Tried to dress the worm with a fine file but the pawl would double back on itself. Would a shim fix this or is it warn out? Sounds like I should shim the new pawl regardless.
How smooth should the line guide post be? Mine has some chrome flaking off and is a little rough in spots. Should I get a new one next order?
I've seen them in horrible rough shape and they were still working fine. If you are not worried about cosmetics just smooth it with some steel wool of fine emery cloth. If you need any good used parts shoot me a pm.
Cheers:
Todd
Quote from: BradH on October 29, 2020, 03:59:14 PM
I'm halfway through my 320gti service- first conventional reel I've ever done. Ordered a handful of parts from Is the worm and pawl a go/no go item in terms of wear? Tried to dress the worm with a fine file but the pawl would double back on itself. Would a shim fix this or is it warn out? Sounds like I should shim the new pawl regardless.
How smooth should the line guide post be? Mine has some chrome flaking off and is a little rough in spots. Should I get a new one next order?
I don't think you can shim a pawl. When the U-shaped part is worn then it's toast.
A common failure is the carriage; the block that the line guide is attached to. The inside of the hole will wear as it slides back and forth on the worm. When the hole is worn the carriage can wobble a bit. When it wobbles it can bind on the worm grooves.
If the levelwind is sticking and the idler gear is OK, I'd go ahead and replace the worm, carriage and pawl together to avoid making multiple orders.
The other option is to grow up, throw the levelwind mechanism away, and learn to lay line with your finger.
-steve
I have a couple 320's as loaners for novices, hell I even use them when I'm lazy.....I keep a couple worm gears and pawls in stock to keep them running. I haven't tried shimming the pawl, I just replace it when it starts acting up. They are cheap when you buy a couple and add them to another order. By removing the level wind stuff you can gain a considerable amount to casting distance by not having all that stuff grinding away, but to each his own....The 320 has great internals, probably more than the frame can handle....If you look at some of Alan's loaners for deep drops they are all 320's......Bill
Thanks for the help guys. Will check the carriage, good call.
Quote from: oc1 on October 29, 2020, 08:26:25 PM
The other option is to grow up, throw the levelwind mechanism away, and learn to lay line with your finger.
-steve
Levelwinds are the go-to for rockfish (striped bass) trolling in the Chesapeake. We use the levelwind as simple line counter (count 'bars' levelwind passes ~10-12') and it's easy for novice anglers. Some boats are trolling 25+ lines with planer boards so using a hand held counter is not practical and measuring and marking the line is tough (think cutoffs and tangles) and you may have to change distance on the fly. May not be the best solution but it's what's done around here.
The shimming is with teflon dots. I have not tried it but has been discussed on here.
I have heard of some deckhands of party boats buying 'damaged' 320's from fishers as they walked off the boats. The deckhands replace the drags and remove the LW for personal use.
Shimming under the pawl makes the worn u-shape catch the worm just fine in most cases...I've used any old washer or disc that will fit in the cap...and not raise the pawl so high as to bind. 8)
Brad - My favorite lead-line trolling setup is a 320GT2LC with a line counter, which is a little redundant since the lead core line changes color every 10 yards anyway. Love the reel and have trolled many stripers on it. - john
i cut dots with a leather hole puncher from a sheet of teflon that is 10 thousandths of an inch thick. works well for me.
All the photos in the OP are blank. Dont know if theyre recoverable or they were lost to ills of godadday
it appears to be a separate problem. not sure how to fix it. i'll take a look...
Alan,
The photos are there, but they are just not displaying in Chrome or MS Edge. If you right click, then "open image in new tab" it displays normally. I don't know if this relates to the problem being worked on before the godaddy issue (the upper/lower case URL problem) but there is something about the photo URL that the forum software doesn't like.
Alan,
It appears to be and SSL problem. The urls are HTTPS links and there's a problem with the SSL at the target site "http://www.fullspeedfishing.com". If you ammend the links to just "http://" (delete the "S") they appear to work fine.
The Wiskers
I do have a 345gti question - LMAO
I have two 345gti reels and one 340. The levelwind spiral bar / shield assemblies (part # 44, 42, 50, 43, 36B) have a LOT of play left and right on both the 345gti's. Zero play on the 340. I have serviced and spooled these reels without noticing the play, now its bothering the bejesus out of me. Everything is tight and working properly and they both level the line pretty well (a little hump in the center of each at the very, very top). What can be causing the levelwind mechanism to have so much side to side play?
The 340 is tight, no play and levels the line a little heavy on one side, but nothing im worried about.
Can anyone explain what's happening? Is it supposed to move, not supposed to move, do i need to replace some bushings?
Ty
The Wiskers
The image URLS are http not https. This is visible if you quote the message where the original BBCode is embedded in quotes.
[img width=600 height=450]http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40701.JPG[/img]
Quote from: williewiskers on February 11, 2021, 01:30:18 AM
I do have a 345gti question - LMAO
Can anyone explain what's happening? Is it supposed to move, not supposed to move, do i need to replace some bushings?
Ty
The Wiskers
there is a hex nut 36B at the end of the worm that needs to be tightened up a little. a small amount of play is fine. just don't over tighten it.
so, is this correct? we have an ssl certificate, which is why the address for our website starts with https//:, but the website where my old photos are stored does not, which is why fullspeedfishing starts with http//:. so the security here will not allow the photo from fullspeed to post automatically, is that correct?
i'm guessing the only way to fix this problem is to get fullspeed to buy an ssl certificate. also correct? sorry, i'm really a noob at this stuff.
Quote from: alantani on February 11, 2021, 03:29:54 AM
so, is this correct? we have an ssl certificate, which is why the address for our website starts with https//:, but the website where my old photos are stored does not, which is why fullspeedfishing starts with http//:. so the security here will not allow the photo from fullspeed to post automatically, is that correct?
i'm guessing the only way to fix this problem is to get fullspeed to buy an ssl certificate. also correct? sorry, i'm really a noob at this stuff.
Your OP links to fullspeedfishing are prefaced with the SSL qualifier "https://", that means our browsers are TRYING to open those links with a secure connection, but its not working - so they arent loading them. Its not required that those pictures be downloaded using a secure connection; you can just drop the "S" in
"https://" and make it plain
"http://" (standard, non-secuere connection).
Installing an SSL on the pictures host site would also solve this, but its a little more involved and not really necessary. The default setting for standard browsers is to load both secure and non-secure items on a webpage. Some people have their browsers set to ask them before doing so, but that's not the default
Quote from: alantani on February 11, 2021, 03:07:26 AM
Quote from: williewiskers on February 11, 2021, 01:30:18 AM
I do have a 345gti question - LMAO
Can anyone explain what's happening? Is it supposed to move, not supposed to move, do i need to replace some bushings?
Ty
The Wiskers
there is a hex nut 36B at the end of the worm that needs to be tightened up a little. a small amount of play is fine. just don't over tighten it.
I dont think i explained the problem well. its not the worm gear moving under the shield, its the whole worm gear shield assembly moving between the end caps left-right with excessive play.
Its not the spiral bar
itself that's loose, its the whole system; line guide carriage / worm gear / shield assembly moving left-right between the two sideplates. Something should be holding the worm shield snug between the end caps when the sideplate screws are snugged down, but there isnt.
i just worked on several of those and i thought they locked in. any chance there is a white nylon bushing at one end or the other that is missing. parts will have to be carefully compared against schematics..... :-\
Quote from: williewiskers on February 11, 2021, 07:34:24 PM
Quote from: alantani on February 11, 2021, 03:29:54 AM
so, is this correct? we have an ssl certificate, which is why the address for our website starts with https//:, but the website where my old photos are stored does not, which is why fullspeedfishing starts with http//:. so the security here will not allow the photo from fullspeed to post automatically, is that correct?
i'm guessing the only way to fix this problem is to get fullspeed to buy an ssl certificate. also correct? sorry, i'm really a noob at this stuff.
Your OP links to fullspeedfishing are prefaced with the SSL qualifier "https://", that means our browsers are TRYING to open those links with a secure connection, but its not working - so they arent loading them. Its not required that those pictures be downloaded using a secure connection; you can just drop the "S" in "https://" and make it plain "http://" (standard, non-secuere connection).
Installing an SSL on the pictures host site would also solve this, but its a little more involved and not really necessary. The default setting for standard browsers is to load both secure and non-secure items on a webpage. Some people have their browsers set to ask them before doing so, but that's not the default
Where are you seeing
https://?
If you go to the original post and select "quote" as if you were going to reply to it, you will see that the original links have "http://" not "https://"
If you right click on the image (that doesn't display properly), and select copy image address, you will get "http://" as well
[img width=600 [img width=600 height=450]http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40671.JPG[/img]
we will start with the largest selling single model reel in the world, the penn 320 gti.
[img width=600 height=450]http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40701.JPG[/img]
it is one of the easiest reels to work on when it comes to routine bearing service. removing the right side plate assembly (key #1) requires only the removal of four right side plate screws (key #32).
[img width=600 height=450]http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40711.JPG[/img]
Quoteso, is this correct? we have an ssl certificate, which is why the address for our website starts with https//:, but the website where my old photos are stored does not, which is why fullspeedfishing starts with http//:. so the security here will not allow the photo from fullspeed to post automatically, is that correct?
i'm guessing the only way to fix this problem is to get fullspeed to buy an ssl certificate. also correct? sorry, i'm really a noob at this stuff.
I don't think so Alan
Here is #6 image from page 1 of the Tutorial and I can access all of them through my old Explorer Browser sooooooo the problem lies within some coding issues but it beats the Hell outa me why !
(http://www.fullspeedfishing.com/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCN40741.JPG)
yes, but do they show up automatically? i had this problem with ifish.net a while back. buying an ssl certificate for this site solved the viewing problem on that website. i think it will solve the problem with fullspeed. i spoke to the admin at fullspeed and explained the situation. he saw the same problems with his own posts when it tried to display his photos on another site with an ssl certificate. i volunteered to pay for it, but he may just purchases one on his own. we'll see!!!!!
This all loads fine on my old browser IE 6 or so . Running Win 7 but no pix will load with firefox unless I go direct to the source which is fullspeed sometin or nuther
Any particular pic you want here right now for the level wind problem .
Level Wind Bushing pic
I am still not so sure this is an SSL issue. The test photos just posted have http:// links and still do not display in Chrome or Edge, but do display in IE. It is possible that the modern browsers are trying to force the http URL to be retrieved by https, but it is also possible that this is part of the upper case / lower case issue that Gobi King was working on before the Godaddy issue.
Actually, I just debugged loading the page with the problem photos. Chrome is attempting to upgrade the http:// link to https:// apparently due to "Referrer Policy: strict-origin-when-cross-origin" which relates to "Cross-Origin Resource Sharing (CORS) ". Gobi King or the webmaster may be able to make heads or tails of this.
Hopefully there is a server side fix for this. There are ways to disable this on the client side in Chrome and Edge, but they may expose security issues that would apply to other Web sites as well, so disabling it in Chrome or Edge would be a bad idea.
Bottom line: If the hosting site does get a certificate and can support https, then that should resolve the problem.
Here is whats happening. They must have updated browser security policy to force SSL to links off of the site if the site you're on is already SSL. As you can see in the attached photos the links are being opened as SSL links. Manually removing the "S" allows them to be opened normally. Figuring out the root of why this is happening is what we need to do.
A little quick googling and you'll find numerous references to chrome and firefox having "decided" on their own to force SSL for everything or nearly everything now. Its complicated to remove and requires each user to add lines of code to their browser config file via text editer. Theyre making it intentionally problematic in order to "force" everyone to implement SSL on all standard web servers to eliminate the annoying user problem they created
Quote from: Wompus Cat on February 12, 2021, 01:29:42 AM
Level Wind Bushing pic
That bushing is in there, it just doesn't fill the whole cavity provided for it in the recess of the side plate. Maybe the previous owner over-tightened the nut and forced it down further than it should go? Ill add a couple replacements to my Mystic Parts list and see if new ones don't fix it.
Ty!
Quote from: williewiskers on February 12, 2021, 02:17:23 AM
A little quick googling and you'll find numerous references to chrome and firefox having "decided" on their own to force SSL for everything or nearly everything now. Its complicated to remove and requires each user to add lines of code to their browser config file via text editer. Theyre making it intentionally problematic in order to "force" everyone to implement SSL on all standard web servers to eliminate the annoying user problem they created
I knew the links were already http in the original post, but I was on the fence about the nature of the problem until seeing the error code in the debugging info in chrome. This issue may be a handshake between the browsers and the server running the forum, where possibly a changed setting on the server would fix this. However, a certificate and https on the photo hosting site would surely fix it.
We can't really blame Google, Microsoft and Firefox for this issue, because they are trying to close security loopholes to protect us all. It is generally bad to think you are on a secure site and unwittingly make requests to sites that are not secure. In our case it is just photos but think of sites with shopping carts, financial accounts, personal information, etc.
Quote from: williewiskers on February 12, 2021, 02:17:23 AM
A little quick googling and you'll find numerous references to chrome and firefox having "decided" on their own to force SSL for everything or nearly everything now. Its complicated to remove and requires each user to add lines of code to their browser config file via text editer. Theyre making it intentionally problematic in order to "force" everyone to implement SSL on all standard web servers to eliminate the annoying user problem they create[/quote
lol I don't know come here from sick em bout coding,http,https,url ,yule Brenner, C+++,ajax,htacess,FTP, linux, widndoz,exploder,php,or nuttin else but I can see the entire threads here that are fubarred in my old explorer browser then copy the location save it to my confuser /post it here and then the info on the pic is here not on speed fishing host .I dunno .
I agree ssl is being forced on us but still the browsers Should notate the older versions and give accsess anyway If the file is there .Just sayin
All pix in these hard worked invaluble tutorials should be on this server and or stored somewhere where probs like this don't keep happening .
Just like the blotted out Fodo Bucket pix in a bunch of tutorials here and elsewhere . They are retrievable but takes work and time .
And here I thought Photobucket had wrecked the picture archives on the internet..
::)
I thought this information on line capacity might be useful......Gearing up to take my wife, a friend and his wife fishing. I took a couple 320 GTI's down to have line put on them. Both took 200 yards of 65 lb solid braid and 100 yards of 40 lb mono. They were filled to the brim. I wanted a 100 yards top shot hoping to avoid "professional overruns" in the braid. I realize the line is kind of heavy, but heck, I still have 900' of line on the reels, and a reel capable of 20 lbs of drag. I won't fish them at 20 lbs, but it's there if absolutely necessary......Bill
That'll get 'er done. I love these reels in their application. The Boss fishes them. If you're bottom bouncing, pop on a couple power handles off your 4/0's and see if you don't like that better, vs. paddle.
Thanks for the tip John....I will....need to make the trip as pleasurable as possible for the ladies....Bill
Much easier winching. I think it's 24-57 as a new part, but they are pricey. A Ted grip would be on point with the foam barrel.
I have a bunch of the old rock cod handles, but I think they will be too much, but plenty of 4/0's to borrow from. If the ladies start getting into fishing more then an investment in new handles will be next on the block. I did install Alan T's handles on the fathoms and Baja special.....what a difference that made...
How will the 320GTI compare to the Triton TR200s? I could get both for the same price, in good condition, assuming I get a set of carbontex drags and bearings for the TR200. Will be using them at the pier. From what I can see, the Triton is a ton lighter, less prone to corrosion and has stainless internals but the GTI comes with spool bearings, carbon drags and 4/0 sized gears stock. The levelwind is being removed regardless of reel.
I've never held a triton. Not sure what the parts situation is either, I would expect it's pretty bleak. The 320 drivetrain is basically a 4/0 the only limitation is the graphite frame. Parts readily available from Mysticparts.com. I would take the 320 over the triton. Bill
I cannot understand the penchant for removing level winds. I for one love level winds and when loaded correctly they function very well. Dominick
Quote from: Bill B on September 13, 2022, 06:06:13 PMI've never held a triton. Not sure what the parts situation is either, I would expect it's pretty bleak. The 320 drivetrain is basically a 4/0 the only limitation is the graphite frame. Parts readily available from Mysticparts.com. I would take the 320 over the triton. Bill
Thank you guys for replying. How corrosion resistant is the GTI? Considering that the one in this service thread comes in with some green on the brass. A bit of my concern is with longevity, since where I live Penn doesn't provide parts in stock.
If you follow a good maintenance program, fresh water rinse after every salt water trip, yearly breakdown and reassemble with fresh grease and oil, it will give you years of fishing. If possible stock up on a couple complete levelwind assemblies (pawl, worm gear, idler gear), and bearings, which can be ordered from mysticparts.com. If you have a bearing supplier that is local they can be purchased there. They don't have to be specialized fishing reel bearings, just the same size. Bill
Quote from: Bill B on September 14, 2022, 05:42:31 PMIf you follow a good maintenance program, fresh water rinse after every salt water trip, yearly breakdown and reassemble with fresh grease and oil, it will give you years of fishing. If possible stock up on a couple complete levelwind assemblies (pawl, worm gear, idler gear), and bearings, which can be ordered from mysticparts.com. If you have a bearing supplier that is local they can be purchased there. They don't have to be specialized fishing reel bearings, just the same size. Bill
Thanks. Have you used a GTI?
Yes, I have 2 of the 320's and 1 of the 310's. The 320's get used for deep sea fishing dropping 10-12 ounces of lead 300' with a dropper loop. I picked up both used, replaced the levelwind pawls and worm gears just as insurance, with spares if needed. They get a yearly service and fresh water rinse after each use. Highly recommend the 320's.
Quote from: Bill B on September 15, 2022, 06:35:21 PMYes, I have 2 of the 320's and 1 of the 310's. The 320's get used for deep sea fishing dropping 10-12 ounces of lead 300' with a dropper loop. I picked up both used, replaced the levelwind pawls and worm gears just as insurance, with spares if needed. They get a yearly service and fresh water rinse after each use. Highly recommend the 320's.
How do these compare to newer reels? Besides the weight, of course. What size fish would you recommend these for? Thanks for taking time to answer.
I am hesitant to say how big of a fish. Let look at the drag. The gears and drag washers are near clones of the gears in a 4/0 Penn Senator 113H. The 113H delivers an easy 20# of drag. 20# of drag is a chore to hold on to during a long fight, but completely doable. The limiting factor of the the 320 is the graphite frame. Alan believes the 320 is good for 15# of drag all day long and I agree.
So we can reverse engineer our look at the 320. Using the 1/3 rule for drag setting, 15# of drag would be 1/3 of 45# fishing line, so we will round up to 50# fishing line. 50# line will catch a lot of fish, I would be comfortable chasing yellowtail, small tuna, halibut with 50#. I'm not familiar with the fish in your area, but consider the 320 for any fish you would use 50# line. As a side note I will be taking a 320 on the upcoming 8 day on the SOA.
Another factor to look at is the fishing pole. When pulling 15# of drag the rod tip should be at a 45* angle to rod butt. Any more angle you risk breaking the rod, any less you lose sensitivity of the rod.
I know parts are a problem for you, I do believe mysticparts.com can ship international (but I could be wrong) so stock up on the levelwind parts to keep the reel running. In a pinch the levelwind can be removed from the reel and you still have a solid 4/0 class reel.
Bill
Mystic stopped shipping internationally. The 320 is quite a bit larger than the 200. I have used and still do 310, 320, 330, 345 extensively. Great reels within their specified operating ranges. Any green on one is due to someone totally ignoring a freshwater rinse at minimum. As much as I take things apart and service them, I'll say I don't recall ever taking a gti down for service, let alone an issue- freshwater rinse and they operate today like they did when I bought them in the 90's and 2000's.Hundreds of hours on them variously trolling, livebaiting, and bottom fishing and the only thing I've ever replaced is a shift lever that came unscrewed. Compared to modern reels? I have Squalls and Warfares as well, and some may argue but functionally comparable. As stated, 320 as well as 330 can accept the 4/O size power handles if desired due to same sleeve size. I should prolly grease the drags one day...
John
Barishi - I will second everything above. If you are going to pre-service/maintain then either reel should do a passable job. I have a 320LC and it is my "go-to" lead core trolling reel for fresh water. Solid internals and easy to maintain. If I were using it for salt I would be doing as Bill advises with standard "post trip rinse" and "annual" service. Again, I know you are in a different country and that will most definitely changes things, but I would say on an "apples:apples" if you purchase and treat the two reels the same, that you will not be disappointed in either case, but I would go with the Penn with no hesitation. - john
Thank you all for the replies. I'm planning to use mine for casting, so I think I'll do what Alan did to the 321 at the start of this thread.
Quote from: Barishi on September 13, 2022, 04:19:28 PMHow will the 320GTI compare to the Triton TR200s?
I own and fish both. The TRs are smaller and more compact, and have a very small handle and short handle arm. I've swapped them out with Tekota handles and maybe from an older Speedmaster for a better feel. The gear sleeve seems small but if it's the same as the Tekota it should be fine. The 320s feel more powerful and I tend to reach for them more. Also have a better stock handle. Both are fairly easy to service. Maybe look at a 310 if you want an in between size. Also good reels.