can't believe i've never mentioned this on this board until now......
Quotewell since in my case anything that I buy online takes 3-4 weeks to arrive (mexico), and the new set of carbontex has still some days to come I was still messing with my reel to see was going on with this drag presure issue, so I went to the basics and was more an elimination than to try something new, so tryed the very first option and BUM!! presto!! the reel has the drag presure back, this is how I fix it
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa198/alextellofotos/carrretes/saltistmononikkon_051810_1789DSCN23.jpg)
yep, I took the spectra line out and put a short lace 50# izorline mono on it, with all the shame and embarrasment I have the say that the reel has 17-18# drag presure with smooth free spool and if I reallly lock the drag star it lose free spool +- 20# :o:o
so I have no more to say just thanks for your help and comments, sorry for hijack the thread and ONE MORE TIME Alan Tani was right, this is wha the told me at the very beggining in one PM
Quote
Originally Posted by alantani
my guess is that there is something else wrong with your reel. spectra slipping on the spool is my first thought. a problem with the drag stack is the next. there is nothing wrong with cal's grease. is the star bottoming out? tear it down again and rebuild it. let me know. alan
yep, the spectra was slipping but I didnt even checked it because I put 2 rounds of electric tape on the spool and made a real tight anchor knot, it seems that I need to get back to my old method of put some mono line in the spool and then attach the spectra to it.
I put back a small amount of cal's grease to the drag washer
cory, Frank, Alan gracias
yep, that was my case, braid slipping on the spool causing only 5-6# drag
I dont know if is allowed but started in this thread http://www.bloodydecks.com/forums/fishing-reels/178044-grease-2.html
yeah, i remember that! ;D for what it's worth, all of that discussion probably helped alot of guys! alan
Alan ,
I have seen that alot lately , the line slipping , what works for us is to wrap electrical tape on the spool 1st and then install the braid , the braid locks into the tape and all is well .
I had a discussion on 360tuna about this a while ago. I was almost able to convince an inexperienced guy to put tape on the spool before loading up with 400 yards of spectra. Then a couple of senior members where able to intercept and convince this guy otherwise.
Makes no sense to me, when it costs absolutely nothing, and can only do good. I'm not arguing that an expert can spool spectra directly and under certain conditions can make it work. But to advice a beginner to do the same, is at best misleading.
I used flex wrap. The stuff you use instead of tape when you get a shot or blood drawn. I think they also use flex wrap to protect your fingers when fishing now as well. Never had a problem, but most of my reels are spooled with 15# -30# spectra.
I've got a couple of things that I do, first, I use tape that trainers use to tape ace bandages. It's a cloth tape and it sticks to the spool really well. Next, I use Basil's idea and leave a tag end after tying your arbor knot (or whatever knot you choose), then lay the tag end across the spool and spool your wrap #### tight as I can get it. Never had spectra slip and there are several reels here at the house that will pull over 40#'s on a scale.
if you prefer tying Spectra/PE on the spool directly, try this:
first wrap PE/Spectra 6-8 times around the spool-arbour and ONLY THEN make you spoolknot (Uni-/or Grinner for me) - no slip, no messing with tape adhesive, no mono
If you wind spectra directly on the spool. Be sure to make the wraps in the opposite direction the lines winds on. This will make the wraps self tightening. If you go the other way it will work but if the wraps get loose it can slip. This can happen if you get spooled and then try to get the reel to grab the spectra again.
Jim N.
power pro comes with spool tape in the back of the box thats what i use
Hi all, some spools have pins where you can anchor your knot.
Is'nt this sufficient to prevent slippage?
Works every time for me. But you still need to tie the line around the spool, then let the line go on the other side of the pin as you start to spool up. I wouldn't trust the pin to carry the tension of the line without some help. ;D
Quote from: norcal pescador on November 01, 2011, 03:32:26 AM
Works every time for me. But you still need to tie the line around the spool, then let the line go on the other side of the pin as you start to spool up. I wouldn't trust the pin to carry the tension of the line without some help. ;D
You mean to tie it on the spool first before you tie on to the pin?
Tie the line around the spool as if the pin wasn't there and pull it up tight. Let's say the line is tied to the left of the pin. Slide the loop around the arbor over next to the pin. Right where the line comes off the spool where the knot is tied, move the line behind the pin (towards the rod butt) and over to the right side of the pin. Holding tension on the line, start reeling in and you'll see the line is now "caught" by the pin. Crank away at this point and fill the spool. Does this make sense now?
Quote from: norcal pescador on November 01, 2011, 07:04:28 AM
Tie the line around the spool as if the pin wasn't there and pull it up tight. Let's say the line is tied to the left of the pin. Slide the loop around the arbor over next to the pin. Right where the line comes off the spool where the knot is tied, move the line behind the pin (towards the rod butt) and over to the right side of the pin. Holding tension on the line, start reeling in and you'll see the line is now "caught" by the pin. Crank away at this point and fill the spool. Does this make sense now?
Right. The knot on the spool shaft will be locked good. Thanks bro.
Quote from: edgarz on November 01, 2011, 04:53:55 AM
Quote from: norcal pescador on November 01, 2011, 03:32:26 AM
Works every time for me. But you still need to tie the line around the spool, then let the line go on the other side of the pin as you start to spool up. I wouldn't trust the pin to carry the tension of the line without some help. ;D
You mean to tie it on the spool first before you tie on to the pin?
What I do is tie a spider hitch at the end of the braid and wrap the loop so it connects to the pin
Quote from: JGB on October 14, 2011, 07:49:14 PM
If you wind spectra directly on the spool. Be sure to make the wraps in the opposite direction the lines winds on. This will make the wraps self tightening. If you go the other way it will work but if the wraps get loose it can slip. This can happen if you get spooled and then try to get the reel to grab the spectra again.
Jim N.
I've learned to do as Jim stated ('cause he is the one that taught me). I use flexwrap on the arbor of the spool, then make a binimi twist in the line, double wrap the double line then tie a blood knot (nail knot??? okay, I don't know the name). Tighten down then start stringing. I learned this from Jim as well. :) Thank Jim.
5 turn uni knot.....
Quote from: SharkboyEI on December 13, 2012, 03:39:25 PM
Quote from: edgarz on November 01, 2011, 04:53:55 AM
Quote from: norcal pescador on November 01, 2011, 03:32:26 AM
Works every time for me. But you still need to tie the line around the spool, then let the line go on the other side of the pin as you start to spool up. I wouldn't trust the pin to carry the tension of the line without some help. ;D
You mean to tie it on the spool first before you tie on to the pin?
What I do is tie a spider hitch at the end of the braid and wrap the loop so it connects to the pin
And then you try and spool the line on with your socks :D But tape/ some sort of backing is essential
Quote from: Bryan Young on December 13, 2012, 03:59:35 PM
Quote from: JGB on October 14, 2011, 07:49:14 PM
If you wind spectra directly on the spool. Be sure to make the wraps in the opposite direction the lines winds on. This will make the wraps self tightening. If you go the other way it will work but if the wraps get loose it can slip. This can happen if you get spooled and then try to get the reel to grab the spectra again.
Jim N.
I've learned to do as Jim stated ('cause he is the one that taught me). I use flexwrap on the arbor of the spool, then make a binimi twist in the line, double wrap the double line then tie a blood knot (nail knot??? okay, I don't know the name). Tighten down then start stringing. I learned this from Jim as well. :) Thank Jim.
but x2 wth the uni knot...
Here is the thinking on attaching spectra to the spool:
Grease or wax the spool to reduce corrosion.
Double the line into a long loop of around 15". Use a Bimini or a knot-less loop when using hollow core.
Reason - to maintain 100% line strength when tying the UNI knot to the spool.
Apply tape (electrical, grip or athletic friction tape - one layer is fine and does not need to cover the entire length of the spool).
Gives the line something to grab onto until it tightens up.
Make 2 wraps in the opposite direction the line will wind on to the spool.
Reason - The line will self tighten and cinch up to the spool. If you wind in the same direction once it gets a little loose it will stay loose.
Tie a 5-6 turn UNI or better yet a back wrap the UNI so it becomes a nail knot and pull the knot up tight.
Reason - This knot is secure and allows the knot to slide on the main line so it will cinch up.
Pull on the main line and slide the UNI down to the spool. Leave the tag in place if it is inch or less long. Otherwise trim to 1 inch.
Reason the tag is used to further secure the line by wrapping over it.
Lay the tag side ways along the spool and wrap over it.
Wind your line on tight as reasonable but no less than 6-8# but closer to the strike setting is preferred.
Reason - to pack the line and reduce the possibility of the line digging in during a fight with a trophy fish.
Fill the spool winding side by side rather than overlapping cross hatch. Be sure to wind all the way to the sides of the spool to prevent a gap from forming that the line might dig into later. Be extra careful to avoid the line from stacking on the side of the spool and then collapsing. This can cause a underlying layer to wrap on top of the outer layer and breaking off during a fight.
Reason - more line on the spool and the line will not be damaged by the excessive overlapping. The new braided and hollow lines will hold their shape and not dig in unless the line is wound on too loose.
Be sure to hook some really big ones to give you work a thorough testing. If you get spooled and you break off at the spool review your knots and quality of line.
If you ever get spooled point your rod at the fish. Your line, rod and reel will be experiencing way more pressure than they were designed for so keep the fragile parts out of the fight. If all gos well you get some line back and be able to use the drag and rod safely once again. If you quarry is just too much then your weakest part will fail. Hopefully that will be the leader where it is attached to the hook and you will get everything back. Don't forget to repack the line and replace the leader and retie all your connections. Letting out your line a couple of hundred yards at 10 knots will produce near 6-8 # of tension.
Being prepared is one of the best ways to bring success,
Jim N.
I prefer electrical tap put on a single layer and put on tight. i crank the handle with the tape in the other hand and put it on pretty uniformly . It is relatively waterproof. Then I do 2 wraps around the spool with a uni knot.
I have started doing two overhand knots around the spool (sort of like a hitch more than a knot) with a tag that is at least as wide as the spool. Then I over wrap the tag as tightly as possible, so it looks like I'm doing an under wrap for a rod eye. Then fill the spool with out overlapping. I have broken 80 pound mono topshots with this method and I have never had braid slip. Of course, if I am completely spooled I have lost the fish but that has yet to be an issue. (Is that a good thing or a bad thing?)
Ron
i do what Jim suggested but no tape or extra wraps. The line is fed on top of the reel spool, then around the spool by going from the back to the front. This ensure that as you're reeling in the line continue to tighten against the spool. I used a san diego jam knot to tie the braid to the spool. Most people feed the line going underneath the spool from the front, then up the back before tying the knot but this just make the knot not able to cinch down onto the spool.
Just what works for me is, :) a very light coat of grease on the very bottom of the spool.......then wrap a few tight layers of a easily found tape called NEXCARE, 1 inch wide, "absolutely waterproof " streachy medical tape on the spool overlapping the tag end.........
This pruduct is sold for around $4 in the bigger grocery stores, in the first aid section . Not he Beer/wine section is maybe why its not found favor with some Linespoolers?
Its a good solution to the line slip if you dont have a dedicated tie spot on the spool..... Your line will imprint into this like there's no tomorrow...... :-*
Quote from: gstours on December 29, 2016, 05:26:11 PM
Just what works for me is, :) a very light coat of grease on the very bottom of the spool.......then wrap a few tight layers of a easily found tape called NEXCARE, 1 inch wide, "absolutely waterproof " streachy medical tape on the spool overlapping the tag end.........
Will have to remember this! That's a great, simple solution.
Go around spool with line 3-4 passes. No tape needed. Tie San Diego. Pull tight until u cannot
Tighten from slipping.
Yet another proposal... but never slips, though it is a pain to do...
Clove hitch round the spool hub and then four-turn Grinner with the tag end around the main line. Now manoeuvre the strands until one turn of the clove hitch is either side of the little nub thing and slowly tighten, bit by bit. The cross-strand of the clove hitch will butt up against the nub and once all is tight the nub forces the line to turn and cannot slip.
Cheers,
Chris
I gave up on tape and knots. I just put a simple arbor knot on the spool and about 30 yds of mono, then do an Albright to braid. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but I also de-spool my reels after every trip before cleaning them.
Just do like Jerry Brown instructs.
No backing.
Keith
every time I see the picture on the 1st post (which I took it back in May, 2010), I recall that is probably the 1st time I made contact with the Boss, so next month I will have 12 years of following the path of the Master Alan Tani.
:d :fish