Reel Repair by Alan Tani

Quote from: oldmanjoe on March 17, 2026, 09:21:13 PMI do not have a Cricut Machine yet .  You have peaked my interest in this Kapton tape , I am not familiar with it .  Can you provide a link ?  Yes that was the problem to get the prism lines of color .

Here's a good site (https://croylek.com/pages/kapton-tape?srsltid=AfmBOooWsMc2cRZjv4iDunr9XepaWhQFGIzomru-WawYjBqn5tKSifp6) that has some information on Kapton Polyimide Film, describing what it is and some of it's properties. I read somewhere that its oven safe.

I would recommend DuPont Kapton Polyimide Film brand but I imagine there are cheaper alternatives just as good. You'll need to check the adhesive properties and ensure it has silicon adhesive.

I didn't realize this, but Amazon sells Kapton sheets for 3D printing surface covering. I'm familiar with the tape variety like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NDRY223/ref=twister_B08NDQHP8V?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

If you have some old dead battery lying around for cordless tools like a DeWalt battery, there might be some Kapton tape inside that you can use for experimentation.   

Another alternative might be this: https://tapeproviders.com/collections/high-temperature-tapes/products/wod-polyester-tape-3-5-mil-silicone-adhesive-72-yards-high-temp-resistant-for-splicing-masking-or-holding-application-pft35gs I have no experience with it but looks interesting as one of the reviews stated: "I use thus tape when powder coating stainless Steele cups and it comes off clean leaving no residue"  It too is sold on Amazon, search for "Green PET High Temperature Tape"

Anyone know the size of the keeper screw for the nut retainer on the handle?

I just took the bridge out of the right side plate and the dog spring is mangled, so it must have fallen out of position as I put the side plate together. That could have been causing some of the issues.

I will try a different bridge first. When I take the right side plate off the reel and turn the crank I still feel tightness and more geariness at a point in the reeling cycle. I also noticed that the gear sleeve isn't centered in the opening where it comes through the side plate. Is that normal, or does it indicate a problem with the bridge/bridge post?

Quote from: thorhammer on Today at 01:28:39 AMReel seats on the 180 are light. Swap the spool to your one and see if that works. PC Spools are way too expensive to rub out due to a torqued stand. Clearly that reel was abused, and I/m not sure how you bust a spool in the reel without impact. If it was missing screws when it was dropped or hit, even more likely something is distorted.

I think I will try a few things to troubleshoot:

Put the side plates on the old 155 foot, bars, and spool. If the spool spins freely but I still have the same tightness and gear grind at a constant point in the cranking cycle, then I will know that the problem is not the spool or frame. Then I can try swapping out the bridge, sleeve, and yoke from another 180 and see if they are the source of the problem.

Have had to straighten the stands on those 180/160/155 reels in order for things to spin true.

Usually just replace them with tougher 49/66/200 stands.

Setting your stand upside down on a flat surface (mirror or glass etc), will show if all four corners are sitting true.

That sound when you tilt it could also be the spool rubbing on the bridge (or clicker) screws? Hard to tell without seeing the reel but hope this helps.

Hmm... Maybe the spool is not rubbing on the side plates. When I put it in freespool and spin the spool with my finger it spins for 9 seconds or so. I can hear some slight chattering sounds when it is spinning, and they get louder when I tip the reel away from vertical, but it seems to be spinning fairly smoothly.

When I turn the crank I feel slight resistance and feel more gear sound at one point in the reel cycle. If the side plate was a clock face, I feel the resistance and gear sound at the same point on the clock face with every rotation of the crank. If the problem was the spool rubbing it would either be constant, or it would happen multiple times with each turn of the crank. It is a new spool, so I don't think it is a bent spindle. Also, the bridge plate, sleeve, yoke, and jack are from the other 180. It also had a rough spot at one point in the cranking cycle. I thought it was bad gears, and that is why I used the gears from the 155 in the other 180 and am using a new gear set just purchased from Mystic for this 180. Even with the new gears I am feeling the roughness in the gears at one point in the reeling cycle. Maybe there is a problem with the bridge, post, or yoke. Because I feel the slight resistance and gear grind at a constant point in the reeling cycle (and then at a different constant point in the reeling cycle after I put it in freespool and then back into gear) I would assume that the problem is with the bridge post and.or sleeve, because they are what turn with the crank. Does that make sense?

Reel seats on the 180 are light. Swap the spool to your one and see if that works. PC Spools are way too expensive to rub out due to a torqued stand. Clearly that reel was abused, and I/m not sure how you bust a spool in the reel without impact. If it was missing screws when it was dropped or hit, even more likely something is distorted. The fact that the sleeve won't move is also an indicator of out-of-true.

Heat pinion with a torch. Soak in kroil or whatever. Tap down lightly with padded peen hammer. Pry evenly around it with screwdriver; this may further crack spool, but I'd try as nothing to lose.

Main gear: if you get pinion off, lap the main on 200 grit then something higher or steel wool to remove plating. Grease well with new CF washers and should be fine. Lap the brass washers as well. Greased CF on lapped brass is buttery smooth, and nothing you are using that reel for requires SS.

Lee, they are a winter fishery in NC / Va so water 50-55. We get them within a mile or two off the beach on occasion.

Used to be a big chunking thing but that has subsided a bit. SLow trolling live bait around birds, whales and bait pods is a go. Cob mullet, bluefish (not for you guys) and bunker (large menhaden) on circle hooks with fluoro.

Artificals: horse ballyhoo under Islander (blue and white gets the nod), JAG jigs in white, blue/white or pink with flash, 3 oz and 6 oz.

Ted texted me you had a question. My buddy coincidentlaly texted me an hour ago where he won a tourney for largest BFT recently; I believe on JAG.

Hey all,
I had this 110 up an running smoothly except for weird noise from rotor cup area that I couldnt figure out -- ended up poking and prodding and realized counterweight was loose and jiggling a little. Noise stopped when I wedged a toothpick between the counterwight and the semi-circular raised part (some kind of placement quide?). Anyway, decided to fill that gap with JB Weld and so far so good except now it was quiet enough for me to notice the AR cicker noise and movement was kind of --hard to describe- but somehow much softer feeling and quieter than my 220 with the same mechanism. Not a huge deal but curious how to address the issue.

So two questions:
1) Any harm in putting JB Weld in that gap? Realize the horse has left the barn but for my education.
2) How do you guys recommend cleaning / servicing that AR assembly? It is working fine except for maybe being somehow quieter than it should be. 

Thanks, Russ