alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Shimano Baitrunner 4000D Tutorial [Picture intensive]
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Author Topic: Shimano Baitrunner 4000D Tutorial [Picture intensive]  (Read 67198 times)
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Quoc_Pham
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Quoc H. Pham


« Reply #15 on: August 25, 2014, 06:24:53 PM »

Very nice Job Quoc, it's very hard for me to believe that this is your third reel. Undecided
Nevertheless, excellent! Thanks for sharing it with us.
Sal

I'm just good with my hands. Now if I could use them to catch some fish... but that's another topic for another day.

I also just got my A&P License, so I'm into fixing things. For those who don't know A&P means (Airframe and Powerplant) to fix planes. Hopefully there are others here  Cheesy
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #16 on: August 25, 2014, 06:33:23 PM »

Be careful, we are able to slowly make you upgrade reels instead of planes around here Grin.
Thanks for joining us, it's nice to have you here with us.
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Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
jonnou
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« Reply #17 on: August 26, 2014, 01:33:13 AM »

its good to know that the guy that fixes the plane can service a baitrunner Wink Cheesy Grin
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mandaragat
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« Reply #18 on: August 26, 2014, 08:20:00 PM »

"Fly Fisherman"?
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Quoc_Pham
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Quoc H. Pham


« Reply #19 on: August 26, 2014, 08:41:55 PM »

"Fly Fisherman"?

Ahhh I see what you did there... but I am not a pilot. Although I could probably land the sucker if the pilots died... helicopters included  Wink
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exp2000
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« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2015, 01:42:50 AM »

A picture is worth a thousand words so that's quite a book you have written. I believe you when you say that they required more work than the reel. Along with the fact that this was only your third reel shows excellent organisational skills. Brilliant stuff.

Took me a few reels to figure the best approach to spindle assembly. Maintaining gear alignment makes this impossible to properly lube in place. As you documented, it is best to assemble pinion, bearing and spindle assembly outside the reel so you can easily lubricate the rear spindle section and just slide the whole show into position, pre-lubricated.

I have found that it best to switch the baitrunner lever till the gear-case is closed. This places the trip spring under tension, holding it in place and prevents it from drifting loose during subsequent assembly.

I use TSI on metal surfaces instead of grease. It is much neater than a mess of grease and traps no dirt.

Yamaha grease is OK for gear teeth but you need to use a lighter grease in other areas, especially if you are lubricating bearings on a small spinning reel like this. You can roll your own or try some of the light reel greases from Daiwa or Shimano. The new Daiwa range is amazing.

I was trying to confirm that the D series bait-runners have no bail-arm roller bearing which led me to your post which verified this. The schematics reveal that this is the true for the whole D series! I would have never expected this. What a disappointment.

Thankyou for such a great pictorial.
~

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fIsHsTiiCkS
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« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2015, 03:10:43 AM »

Great write up! Would love to see some more by you!
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Quoc_Pham
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Quoc H. Pham


« Reply #22 on: April 13, 2015, 07:17:17 PM »

A picture is worth a thousand words so that's quite a book you have written. I believe you when you say that they required more work than the reel. Along with the fact that this was only your third reel shows excellent organisational skills. Brilliant stuff.

Took me a few reels to figure the best approach to spindle assembly. Maintaining gear alignment makes this impossible to properly lube in place. As you documented, it is best to assemble pinion, bearing and spindle assembly outside the reel so you can easily lubricate the rear spindle section and just slide the whole show into position, pre-lubricated.

I have found that it best to switch the baitrunner lever till the gear-case is closed. This places the trip spring under tension, holding it in place and prevents it from drifting loose during subsequent assembly.

I use TSI on metal surfaces instead of grease. It is much neater than a mess of grease and traps no dirt.

Yamaha grease is OK for gear teeth but you need to use a lighter grease in other areas, especially if you are lubricating bearings on a small spinning reel like this. You can roll your own or try some of the light reel greases from Daiwa or Shimano. The new Daiwa range is amazing.

I was trying to confirm that the D series bait-runners have no bail-arm roller bearing which led me to your post which verified this. The schematics reveal that this is the true for the whole D series! I would have never expected this. What a disappointment.

Thankyou for such a great pictorial.
~



I'll definitely experiment with some different greases... I'm an aircraft mechanic now and have access to quite a few different greases.
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barkley1956
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« Reply #23 on: December 07, 2015, 06:17:47 AM »

My 4000D, less than a year old, had a major failure yesterday while stripped bass fishing off the NJ coast. While setting the hook on a fish about 22" (light weight). the spool just went free, I had to bring the fish in turning the spool by hand, ugh (fish released, a bit tired but ok). I opened the reel up as soon as I got home to find the brass "Free Spool Tension Shaft" (Part # RD13564) had completely rounded off on the inside where the main shaft fits in it. There are two flat sides machined in it and on the end of the mating main shaft but not much if any lube was there. I am very disappointed by this! I will fix it myself as I want to get it back on the water ASAP before the fish migrate but I am now leery of these reels  Undecided. Any recommendations on a reliable, SALTWATER baitrunner reel?
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Jersey Devil
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« Reply #24 on: December 07, 2015, 06:49:12 AM »

Quoc: IMO that is one of the nicest reel tutorials I have seen. Well done!


Joe
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STRIPER LOU
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« Reply #25 on: December 07, 2015, 09:05:04 AM »

Excellent tutorial with schematics! Do you work for Shimano on the side?Huh?? lol
................Lou
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foakes
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« Reply #26 on: December 07, 2015, 10:07:12 AM »

Great tutorial, Quoc --

Particularly like the partial schematics referring to a pic -- part numbers, and sharp organization for our clarity.

Those quality rear drag spinners are not easy to work on or figure out sometimes.

Alan, Quoc needs 2 wrenches for this one -- one for the left, and one for the right...

Good work, and thanks!

Best,

Fre
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exp2000
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« Reply #27 on: December 24, 2015, 09:32:17 PM »

My 4000D, less than a year old, had a major failure yesterday while stripped bass fishing off the NJ coast. While setting the hook on a fish about 22" (light weight). the spool just went free, I had to bring the fish in turning the spool by hand, ugh (fish released, a bit tired but ok). I opened the reel up as soon as I got home to find the brass "Free Spool Tension Shaft" (Part # RD13564) had completely rounded off on the inside where the main shaft fits in it. There are two flat sides machined in it and on the end of the mating main shaft but not much if any lube was there. I am very disappointed by this! I will fix it myself as I want to get it back on the water ASAP before the fish migrate but I am now leery of these reels  Undecided. Any recommendations on a reliable, SALTWATER baitrunner reel?

Wow! That's amazing to strip out that part. I think you were just unlucky. The freespool problem is usually caused by the baitrunner pawl fouling somehow. A bad batch was recently released which caused new reels to fail out of the box. (OC series)

The D series is OK except for the railway carriage return spring. I would go for a Thunnus myself. Nice engineering PLUS a bail arm roller bearing!

But whatever you don't get a Penn. Their baitrunners are really crap engineering.

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reddy time
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« Reply #28 on: December 25, 2015, 01:33:55 AM »

I dont usually post, but that is a amazing tutorial.  Cheers Glenn
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Legal Bill
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« Reply #29 on: May 06, 2016, 09:35:40 AM »

For a "3rd" reel to work on you picked on of the more complicated reels. Not as bad as the original Baitrunner but my hat's off to you for a great tutorial..!!

Wonderful post..

What handi said.  I bought one at a yard sale and it needed a new bail and cap for the opposite side of the handle.  I took it about 25% apart.  When I opened the side cover, I just stared at it for a while, told myself that this part was working fine, and buttoned it back up.  I had a mental image of parts spraying around the basement when I loosened a spring loaded what-cha-ma-call-it without applying proper pressure to the gear-a-ma-jig....  I take my hat off to you and will use this excellent tutorial to properly service my Baitrunner.
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