Penn Fathom LD 2-Speed: Service Tutorial and First Look.

[Chrishb7]

I am talking about the washers sandwiched by the 2 on the right. You can see one stuck to the last washer. The parts list shows 2 in there but the picture only looks like one. Mine only had one but I mixed up them putting them back together and had to look at the diagram to put them back together and it showed 2. Just curious.
Chris

[niswanger]

Ahoy mateys!

First post, hopefully not my last.  Pretty cool this is a SMF forum...I ran one back around 2008 for my photography hobby.  Anyway, I'm getting back into trolling, specifically Kings off the coast of TX and picked up a used Fathom 25NLD2.  All works great except for the two speed button on the handle.  When I bought it it was stuck in low gear and just wouldn't pop out.  I figured at the used sale point I could probably fix it on my own.  Now I haven't gone past the 173A holder catch but did manage to remove everything upstream of it (110C, 172/ shift button and retainer).  I did this thinking it was just mucked up with debris/sand or something.  Well, can now manually put it in high gear or low gear using a similar dia sized alan wrench.  I used WD40 to flush the inside area the button assembly goes and a bit of compressed air.  I used some light oil and clean all that up.  The holder catch assembly and springs all seem good and functional.  They operate normally and spring back to catch the shift button shaft indent just fine.

But, for "some" reason the shift button shaft does not want to move in and out freely at all.  It feels as if the shaft is simply too big for the hole or the hole is too small.  This makes it stick and not pop out freely.  Of course I have yet to take it completely apart but before doing so I wanted to post this for info.  I see 18L is an internal spring and there's shaft assembly stuffs inside that might need some cleaning and attention, but honestly even it that area was good, that shaft on the shift button is just too darn tight.  One thing you might consider is that shaft could be bent?  Well, highly doubt it upon inspection, especially since I acutely pulled off the black cap by accident.  The shaft has splines where it seats in the black cap so when they were apart I rolled the shaft on a piece of glass and it certainly wasn't bent.  I have since put the shaft back in but with the addition of a small bit of jb-weld to keep it in place.



Any suggestions or help much appreciated.

Thank you,
Roy Niswanger

[alantani]

Check to see if 173 is broken.

[niswanger]

Check to see if 173 is broken.

Thank you for the prompt response, I will check this weekend and let you know.  I've had a number of Penn Senator's over the years for grouper and shark fishing in Florida.  My last Penn was a 330 GTi which I sold once I got to Austin, TX as I felt my Gulf fishing days were over.  Well now I'll be trolling for King in my kayak starting this summer and this Fathom 25NLD2 is my first lever drag and so far it seems like it will be my best reel I've ever owned in the class size.

-Roy

[niswanger]

Check to see if 173 is broken.

Found the issue: 



Can youtube videos be embedded with bbc tags?  [youtube][/youtub] or [yt][/yt]?  Is the video embed mod installed on this forum?

Thank you,
Roy

[alantani]

yeah, this......

https://scottsbt.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204433145

[niswanger]

Well I'm having a new issue now.  I've taken a video.  Basically I've taken the spool out and back in and re-assembled the level drag countless times.  I just can't get the level drag to do what it's supposed to do or at least keep acting normal.  There were times it all seems good but then after full free-spool to sunset operation/movement, it became tight to sometimes not moving at all, seized.  

Please also note the mention of a washer I found out of place.  Whether I use the washer where I found it or not it doesn't seem to make a difference.  In addition from my tear-down this washer was not found to be left out of some other place.  However, there is one place of this reel I couldn't get to and that's the non-handle side of the spool.  There are 3 philips screws that hold the "gear click" in place and one of the screws I just couldn't budge, even with a drop of pb blaster, tapping some with a small ball-peen hammer and even used a right-angle screw driver for more torque.  I just didn't want to face a broken screw in the spool...that would have been bad!  So there are washers etc. on that side that I couldn't not double check, namely these and they are held captive because of the gear click and the bearing on that side.  

My issue again is getting this darn level drag to work as it should and I just can't figure it out.  Please help if you have any ideas.



Thank you,
Roy

[Tightlines667]

I have not serviced these reels, but the metal washer is simply a shim that is used to asjust the spacing aling the spool shaft.  They typically are not on the schematics since each individual reel may be shimmed differently.  I would leave it in.  

Maybe try flupping the cam 180 degrees before install.  There is not 180 degrees of travel on the lever, so it must be installed correctly for the lever to function properly.  First install the cam follower with the lever in freespool, then install the cam 180 deg rotated.  You can actually just test the two parts on top of one another to determine the correct orientation.
Keep playing with ot and you will get it.

Also you need the left plate installed to stop the rotation of the spool shaft (pin locks into tail plate) for the pull drag system to function properly.

John

[niswanger]

Thanks Tightlines!

Well, the solution was found right here on this forum:  https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=9685.0

That lever drag assembly is tricky...don't forget your 10, 7, and 4:30 o-clock positions

-Roy

[Rivverrat]

 Its always a good feeling to get it sorted after being frustrated...Jeff

[Observer]

Spending some time trying to get to know my Fathom 15LD.  

Thanks to John for the great walkthrough from page 1.  Following along, I've run into a couple of issues that hopefully someone can help answer.  

1.  Per schematic, there is a (21A) "Lever Quadrant Spacer".  What does this do?  I was very careful disassembling, but I'm not seeing this part on my lever drag arm.  Please see image below... did I lose mine??  


2.  A goal of taking this apart was to improve the freespool.  Out of the box brand new, it was maybe 5 seconds before coming to a stop.  I thought the main area of focus should be around the main axle that runs through the spool and the series of bearings, washers, and brass sleeve, thinking the factory may have put too much grease in that area.  Initial inspection was not bad.  I cleaned up while in there, and re-applied a light coat of Yamalube, re-assembled, and it was still 5 seconds.  Took it back apart and using carb cleaner, thoroughly got rid of all the grease on the axle, bearings, washers, and sleeve, and tried using a light coat of TSI 321.  Re-assembled and still 5 seconds.  Took back apart, triple checked the assembly per the schematic, and every single part is where it should be and facing the right direction (especially the belleville assembly of 8 parts).  The only questionable item is (#8) that appears to be bent brass washer??   Is this normal?  I know there is another bearing (#26N) that is buried behind the high/low speed gears, but as a beginner, I didn't venture out to disassemble "that deep", until I have more confidence with the reel.  Assuming everything is right, does the bearing behind the gears have a significant impact on the freespool?  I don't need 1 minute of freespool, but 20-30 seconds would be nice.  I'm a bit intimidated going deeper (at the moment) as I'm worried I may either be causing more harm than good.


Finally, I'd like to ask for suggestions on having of set of common parts on hand that are normally replaced through self servicing or "lost" such as the lever drag pin and spring due to its size and design. Aside from the main 6 screws plus the back plate screws to hold everything together, are there other parts that are recommended to have "spares" on hand?

Thanks!

[Rivverrat]

I would keep spare bearings & any small springs on hand for spares. On reels that have become keepers that I fish weekly I have extra spool & shaft & any drag washer & any plastic spacers.

Dont use grease on spool bearings when you desire good free spool. To much grease some where can & has been an issue in the past with these reels regarding free spool. Check that your drag assembly is not rubbing in free spool. If bearings check out alright, something is more than likely making contact somewhere it shouldn't.   Is this a new reel ? ... Jeff

[Observer]

Thanks Jeff

Yes, its new and never been fished.  I'm a newb and just trying to learn.

No grease on the spool bearings, OK.  But I thought the consensus was to use a bearing packer ?? (still trying to figure out what that is and does) and fill it will grease once you take the shields off.  The current state of the bearings are cleaned  with carb cleaner and use TSI 321.  Figured since there was no grease in there, I'll just do a little more frequent preventative maintenance of cleaning and oiling since I'm not using grease on those parts.   

Sorry for the newb question, but how do I "check the drag assembly is not rubbing in free spool"?  When the reel is all apart, I don't think I can put it in freespool, since the lever arm is completely detached.  When full assembled, I can put it in freespool, but wouldn't know how to make sure there was no rubbing inside.  Maybe as a next step, I'll take a look at just the bearing all by itself, and spin it, and see how long it spins with no axle or anything. 

   

[Rivverrat]

 OK, with your reel being new it would be hard to find actual rub marks. Lets try something a bit different.  Spool your reel with at least 50 lb. line. Or at least 20 - 30 yards Your going to tie off the line to something solid then your going to walk off line with drag engaged. Start around 10 lbs. of resistance & keep going until the drag gets warm almost hot. Working up to 18 -20 lbs. of drag. All while walking line off.  I personally have never seen a lever drag that didn't perform better in some way after doing this when new. Yes I've seen it correct what your experiencing.

  What this does is squish the drag washer down giving better drag performance & possibly correct any clearance issue the carbon fiber drag may be causing. Same thing a large fish will do running off yards of line at high drag for the reel used

Your questions are why some of us come here. To read & learn. Any question regarding reels is worth while here. Being able to service your own reel only adds to the enjoyment for some of us.  Of course you could just send your reel back to Penn... but if your willing to go forward you will gain knowledge & no longer worry about doing a simple service on your reel & have the willing support of many here... Jeff

[Observer]

Wow.  What a warm welcome.

Thanks. 

I'll give your suggestion a try and report back.... just as soon as my spring scale arrives, LOL.