alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Pro Gear Oceanus 30
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Pro Gear Oceanus 30  (Read 15301 times)
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reelgood
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« on: March 14, 2011, 01:27:19 PM »

Note:  

I will make note down below but the schematics that came in the box with my reel do not match the actual assembly in several places so if you are taking yours apart pay attention to the actual reel and I may not have found all of the deviations  Supposedly all reels with serial # > 300 had the issues worked out with the new parts installed.  These are documented widely and google will turn up what I am referring to.

Bearing sizes are listed in inches using a cheap dial caliper from Harbor Freight tools but I think they are fairly accurate.  I independently got to within 1/1000 of an inch on the OD of the spool shaft and the ID of the bearings it goes into for example.

Most Allen screws are 2 mm and the others are 2.5 mm according to my Craftsman allen wrenches.

I have included the ID of the Main gear bearing housing (part 16 – 0.626”) as well as the OD of the Main Gear Sleeve (part 51 – 0.4375”) because it seems like you could get an A/R bearing in there if it could be secured inside the housing (not sure how this is done in other reels where the housing has a circular perimeter)

This reel is completely greased already and I took it part just to check it out, so only the assembly is documented.


Schematics:




1)   Mostly apart, not that many parts



2)   Actually 4 dogs, two stacked each side to accommodate the lateral movement of the spool, and the dogs themselves, I presume.



3)   This is where an A/R bearing would go, between the two ball bearings or to the side of them



4)   4 screws secure this part



5)   Drag quadrant, large spacing between lever dimples toward angler, 3 screws, 3 spacers beneath quadrant, only 2 spacers above (not on middle screw).  Spacers look like machined parts.




6)   Insert right endcap bearing (27) 0.234” H x 0.748” OD x 0.276” ID



7)   I did not remove parts (38,39,40) drag lever guide pin, guide pin spring, guide pin housing but here is the assembly



Cool   I also did not separate parts (31,33,36,37,41) Cam, Cam follower key, drag lever, drag lever washer, C-clip, but here is the assembly, I didn’t feel like fussing with the c-clip



9)   Three screws secure the lever/cam assembly by going through the inside of the sideplate into the cam follower key




10)    A look at the main gear, main gear shaft, main gear sleeve (#51 – 0.4375” OD), Main gear shaft bearings (#26, 2 identical bearings) 0.155” H x 0.625” OD x 0.374” ID.  **** in the schematics, are (#52) and (#53) – main gear shaft washer and main gear shaft shim – they are not present in my reel.




11)   Screw on main gear retainer (54) with 3 screws, the main gear was stuck on pretty good even without the retainer



12)   Handle unscrews, grip planed base of shaft with plier and rag and turn handle, red Loctite present.  C-clip on end of handle shaft, I didn’t go any further, no ball bearings in there.



13)   Attach handle.  The order in this photo matches the schematics but is NOT the correct one, the plastic shim (87) must go to the left of the handle spacer (88) or else there will be sever millimeters of lateral play in the assembly



14)   Spool shaft with long keyed side, A/R pawl, Pinion gear, and (61) drag pressure plate.  3 Screws attach pawl to pressure plate.




15)   6 Screws attach pressure plate to Drag friction plate (57).  I see this as the worst part of this reel.  Part (61) feels like soft aluminum and looks like it, those 6 screws will strip the threads in a heartbeat.  Good thing there are 6 of them.  Do not tighten very tight though you need them sunk enough so they will not rip up the carbon drag.  I would use some Loctite here.





16)   Drag element, right side spool bearing (#24) 0.197” H x 0.591” OD x 0.233” ID, retaining clip (14).  The schematic shows the drag element is removed via 3 screws but mine seemed glued. It was very secure, I left it alone. OD of Carbon Drag element is 2.622", ID is 0.745"






17)   Notice the spring races (63) have a wider side, that side faces toward the spring.  Install spring and races between right spool bearing and friction plate.





18)   Left side of spool with left spool bearing (#24, same as right) and (12) bearing spacer. Insert spacer and bearing, and secure with retaining clip (14) ****this retaining clip not shown in schematic****




19)   Here we go.  Schematics has ( ) ( ) with the ones convex to the spool (90) labeled as thin and the ones convex to the left side plate (89) labeled as thick.  Not sure how the order matters if each thin is matched to a thick since the laws of physics must still apply, but mine had, in addition, two more thin like this and they were nearest the spool ( ).  There was also another spacer or washer seen in the pic between the C-clip and the  ( ) ( ) ( ) stack and this is also not in the schematics. I have to be honest, I don’t remember 100% if this last unlabeled washer was above or below the C-clip since I took the reel apart 1 month ago, but I am guessing below.





20)   Two clicker wheels (6) and a retainer clip (7) secures them.  Make sure the clip sinks into the indent, you will have to press down against a rubber O-ring to get it in there.




21)   Drag cam and preset assembly and order of parts, spool shaft screw (13) must go in before preset knob bearing (25) 0.235” H x 0.670” OD x 0.233” ID.
I did not remove the cam follower pins (34) or the preset knob pins and springs (68,69) from the cam follower (32).  Insert cam follower so pins sit in deepest recess of the cam, then thread preset knob (64) into cam follower, it is REVERSE threaded, then bearing goes in then screw. Use a coin to carefully screw in (65) preset knob cover.







22)   Clicker assembly I will leave to the imagination



23)   Bearing retention cover must be removed to remove left frame bearing (23) 0.157” H x 0.472” OD x 0.233” ID
Attach Gear cover plate with hole at bottom for drainage I guess, attach frame to right sideplate and it’s done.






« Last Edit: April 03, 2011, 10:05:48 PM by reelgood » Logged
Black Widow Tackle
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« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2011, 05:36:45 PM »

How much drag can you get out of this reel?
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2011, 08:30:56 PM »

VERY NICE ReelGood.  Thanks for sharing your rebuild/tutorial.

There is supposed to be a kit to make this reel into a dual drag system.  It's a kit because Accurate has a pat. on the design.  I think everyone is waiting for the pat. to expire.  Accurate will probably improve on the design ever so slightly to renew the pat. though.
« Last Edit: April 17, 2011, 08:31:59 PM by Bryan Young » Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2011, 12:06:50 AM »

where can you get the kit?
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2011, 06:52:47 AM »

Contact Randy via eBay (SoCalFishing).  Last I heard, he had a few made up.  If you have a problem contacting Randy, you can try Ken's Custom Reels in Oceanside.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
reelgood
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« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2011, 08:56:00 AM »

Bryan - I have contacted Randy several times through ebay about this subject and he has not replied to either email, though when I contacted him to order a few bearings for a CS550 he promptly replied and sent them. 

If I had to guess, I would say there might be legal reasons for him not to comment on this subject, but that's just based on what little I know about the whole Accurate/Dual Drag issue and his non-response.


BW Tackle - I'll measure when I have a chance and get back to you
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slip tip
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« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2011, 10:56:04 AM »

Excellent article, reelgood!

I have a Jigging master PE5 and after seeing your tutorial, seems like the PE5 is a synergy of Accurate and the Pro Gear Oceanus. They took the best features from each and built the reel complete with the dual drag.

Regards,
David

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« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2011, 02:31:40 PM »

I contacted Ken's and they said that there was no kit.  I am still trying to purchase a reel:)

VERY NICE ReelGood.  Thanks for sharing your rebuild/tutorial.

There is supposed to be a kit to make this reel into a dual drag system.  It's a kit because Accurate has a pat. on the design.  I think everyone is waiting for the pat. to expire.  Accurate will probably improve on the design ever so slightly to renew the pat. though.
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alantani
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« Reply #8 on: April 20, 2011, 01:07:51 AM »

gary, did you ever get a penn wrench?  if not, please send me a pm with your address.  thanks!  alan
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
Black Widow Tackle
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« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2011, 04:36:35 PM »

Bryan - I have contacted Randy several times through ebay about this subject and he has not replied to either email, though when I contacted him to order a few bearings for a CS550 he promptly replied and sent them. 

If I had to guess, I would say there might be legal reasons for him not to comment on this subject, but that's just based on what little I know about the whole Accurate/Dual Drag issue and his non-response.


BW Tackle - I'll measure when I have a chance and get back to you

Did you ever have a chance to measure the drag? Thanks
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« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2011, 11:46:04 AM »

Black Widow Tackle....if your still trying to pick up a PG Oceanus 30.......don't do what I did.

The first 197 (approx.) of the PG Oceanus 30 were recalled..........the reel base was breaking.....
Bought one of these early models that had not been recalled.  Gave it to Randy.........he took along time
and only put in a bigger base screw.........He said he does not have the parts to fix this recall.
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« Reply #11 on: June 11, 2011, 12:57:24 PM »

what are the line capacity for this reel?
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