Old Daiwa Sealine long term project

[thorhammer]

lookin good so far. multiple projects is killing me ...getting hard to remember what the little envelopes every day go to ....

[Alto Mare]

Nice job Chris. I'm guessing the metal washers were all done by hand, How did you make the key cut?

[Rothmar2]

Sal, I might do a bit of a "how to" for the key slots one day. But for these, the key is 10mm across the flats, and 6mm radius at the rounded ends. I mark the washers out on the stock by making a centre-pop, then use dividers to scribe the OD for the washer, the centre pop stops the dividers sliding all over the place. Then I take the original washer place it within the scribed circle, I just line it by eye, push down firmly with a couple of fingers, and carefully scribe the key form, being careful to not have anything slip. I then drill the centre out. For these, I used a 4 and then an 8mm drill. Slow chuck speed, about 250rpm, with plenty of cutting paste, as HSS drills won't last long drilling stainless. If you can afford them, use cobalt alloyed drills if you're going to drill a lot of stainless, they'll last much longer.
  I can't stress enough that when it comes to filing, top quality nickel files are a must. With files, you get what you pay for. I bought a set of needle files from a machinists shop, and paid over $60 for them, money well spent. To file the shape, I first aim for the corners. Use a half round file for this. Don't initially try get the radii done at the same time, just file from the drilled hole straight to the corners, but don't quite reach the scribed lines. Initially you still need to be able see your marks. Once happy then use the half round, and a round file, and file down to your radii. Then use a flat file, with smooth sides, to finish by "roughing" down your flats. Then the tedious part comes, getting the key to fit. Very carefully use the same combination of files to ever so slightly widen the key a little at a time until it fits over the sleeve. Take it slow, check frequently you are keeping it even. If you don't have patience, you'll blow it every time. Once you get it to just fit over the sleeve, I use fine emery wrapped over the files to smooth off the surface of the filed keyway.

Then you start all over again on the OD.....

I think someone made the comment on here recently that they would rather mow the lawn than even think about trying to make keyed and eared drag washer.....there is a fair bit of merit in that statement.

But I love a challenge! And I'm a part time masochist!

[handi2]

If the top washer on the drag set is rubbing it will stop rubbing when the drag star is put on and turned just a bit.

Keep the pictures coming when you can.

[Shark Hunter]

Great Job Chris. I bet that reel is going to look nice by the time you are finished.

[Rothmar2]

If the top washer on the drag set is rubbing it will stop rubbing when the drag star is put on and turned just a bit.

Keep the pictures coming when you can.

The rubbing was there even with star backed right off. I'll be making a new spacer eventually which will ensure this won't be an issue later when the reel's fish-able again.
Not going to go over the top with fairing and painting of the side plates, there will probably be a few little blemishes that will be visible on close inspection. I do actually want to fish with this reel eventually.
Next thing I will tackle is remaking the eccentric and free-spool lever.

But I've got some Jigmaster obligations first.

[Alto Mare]

Sal, I might do a bit of a "how to" for the key slots one day. But for these, the key is 10mm across the flats, and 6mm radius at the rounded ends. I mark the washers out on the stock by making a centre-pop, then use dividers to scribe the OD for the washer, the centre pop stops the dividers sliding all over the place. Then I take the original washer place it within the scribed circle, I just line it by eye, push down firmly with a couple of fingers, and carefully scribe the key form, being careful to not have anything slip. I then drill the centre out. For these, I used a 4 and then an 8mm drill. Slow chuck speed, about 250rpm, with plenty of cutting paste, as HSS drills won't last long drilling stainless. If you can afford them, use cobalt alloyed drills if you're going to drill a lot of stainless, they'll last much longer.
  I can't stress enough that when it comes to filing, top quality nickel files are a must. With files, you get what you pay for. I bought a set of needle files from a machinists shop, and paid over $60 for them, money well spent. To file the shape, I first aim for the corners. Use a half round file for this. Don't initially try get the radii done at the same time, just file from the drilled hole straight to the corners, but don't quite reach the scribed lines. Initially you still need to be able see your marks. Once happy then use the half round, and a round file, and file down to your radii. Then use a flat file, with smooth sides, to finish by "roughing" down your flats. Then the tedious part comes, getting the key to fit. Very carefully use the same combination of files to ever so slightly widen the key a little at a time until it fits over the sleeve. Take it slow, check frequently you are keeping it even. If you don't have patience, you'll blow it every time. Once you get it to just fit over the sleeve, I use fine emery wrapped over the files to smooth off the surface of the filed keyway.

Then you start all over again on the OD.....

I think someone made the comment on here recently that they would rather mow the lawn than even think about trying to make keyed and eared drag washer.....there is a fair bit of merit in that statement.

But I love a challenge! And I'm a part time masochist!

Thank you for sharing your tricks Chris, I appreciate it.
I understand some things require lots of work, but if you enjoy doing it, its not so bad .

[fIsHsTiiCkS]

Your work is a testament to, if you want something done, don't let anything stop you!

Amazing work! Will be anice amazing reel to fish.

[Rancanfish]

Hey rothmar!  Curious, What happened to this little project?

[Rothmar2]

G'day mate,

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. This one has taken a bit of a back seat to the Jigmaster. But I did end up getting the side plates faired, and they are currently getting sprayed by an acquaintance. They are being painted black. After all the epoxy filling an fairing back, two coats of a high build primer were sprayed and a further couple of rounds of wet/dry fairing have been done. I believe the black has been sprayed, and I'm waiting on clear coats to be applied. The fella who is doing this work does custom lure sprays, and I'm just waiting for him to get a big batch of sprays ready to be finished with the clear coating, and he will get my plates done with that batch.
I will get some pix up when I get them back.
   Seeing as the Jigmaster has priority at the moment it will be a while before I get back to this one to complete it. But I have every intention of completing this reel.

[thorhammer]

can you advise what he's spraying with? i'm looking something durable in black for SS housings; I can bake but not ready to get into full cerakote.

thanks!

John

[Rothmar2]

can you advise what he's spraying with? i'm looking something durable in black for SS housings; I can bake but not ready to get into full cerakote.

thanks!

John

For sure John, I'll try and get as much detail about the paint types as I can for you. Will try and keep brand names out and keep it to chemical types.

[Rothmar2]

OK, bit of an update here and some info.

Plates came back from the painter today. Still have to wait another day or so for the clear coat to cure, and then I'll carefully use a razor-blade to cut away the masking tape. I'm very happy with the result. Not perfect, but under the circumstances, they have come up well.



As for the paints used, it was one coat of a high build primer lightly thinned. This was done so as not to leave a too thick layer of primer as a base to break away. The plates had been rubbed back with 200 grit prior to priming.
 Next it was two coats of a flat black automotive chasis paint. This paint is resistant to greases and oils, and quite tough. You can see the flat finish on the inside of the plates.
 The clear coat on the outside is KBS Diamond clear coat (brand name). There is two thinned down layers. This is a relatively new product (in Australia at least). It's single pac, and does not set rock hard which is the reason we selected it. It means it shouldn't chip as easily as a two pac clear would, ie should be a more robust finish.
 Hoping now that I have these back, I can make some more progress on this build. I'm going to look into re-making the plastic pieces that house the eccentric, on the right end, and the ratchet arrangement on the left plate, both of which are cracked. Will be using delrin for these.

[thorhammer]

that's nice! I've not forgotten this one...I have several SS's that work 10/10 but need some paint.

[sundaytrucka]

Hey Chris,

Nice project reel, should be a reliable reel after you get done with it.

I wanted to mention adjusting timing of the dog engagement. In the pic you posted of the dog assembly there is some play between the second dog engaging, you could file the contact surface of the dog, slowly shortening the dog to time with the second dog engagement.

From the pic, you should be able to time it to where there is very little handle backplay, or dual-engaging dogs but that would add a good amount of backplay compared.

-Scott